Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove with Lasagna

Linda babysat for kids/grandkid so D-in-law Vivianna prepared home-made lasagna with Italian Sausage. I opened from our cellar this Italian Red Bordeaux Blend for a food wine pairing. 

This wine, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove, is produced by Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, the renowned winery located in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany, Italy, producers of the exceptional flagship blend known as Ornellaia.

Bolgheri, where the estate is located, is a small village on the picturesque Tuscan coast, in the Maremma region near the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its distinctive terroir, characterized by a blend of sand, marl, marine fossils, clay, limestone, and pebbles, coupled with a mild maritime climate and cooling sea breezes, creates ideal conditions for growing high-quality grapes, particularly the Bordeaux varieties used in Ornellaia's wines.

Ornellaia is somewhat of a legend, one of the first “Super-Tuscans”, the result of Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s vision and ambition to produce a great Bordeaux-style wine in Tuscany. The first vineyards were planted in 1981 and today have expanded to almost 250 acres.

Today, the winery is owned by the Frescobaldi family, one of seven estates they own and manage across the Northern Italian Tuscany Bolgheri region, some of which have been in the family dating back to the 1300's.

I first discovered this wine dining at Italian Village in the city (Chicago) for a team business dinner, selected from the vast Italian Village extraordinary wine cellar list crafted and curated by friend Jared Gelband, Wine Director.

I wrote about this label in an earlier blogpost in these pages, excerpted here.

The Ornellaia vineyard totals 280 acres that are divided into more than 70 vineyard plots according to soil type, exposition and varietal. There are three major soil types: marine (sedimentary deposit from the sea), alluvial (marly, sandy clays with mineral veins), and volcanic (schist, gravel and porous soils). All the vineyards are about 3 miles from the Mediterranean shore. The mild maritime climate features sea breezes that keep the sky clear, low rainfall, and long summers that favor the development of aromatic compounds. Vineyards are planted at high density, from 5,000-8,700 hl/ha, and feature several training systems – spur-pruned cordon, single Guyot, and head-pruned vines.

Bolgheri, where the winery is located, is a small village nestled along the picturesque Tuscan coast, specifically in the Maremma region near the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its unique terroir, characterized by a blend of sand, marl, marine fossils, clay, limestone, and pebbles, coupled with a mild maritime climate and cooling sea breezes, creates ideal conditions for growing high-quality grapes, particularly the Bordeaux varieties used in Ornellaia's wines. 

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia was founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori. Antinori, a member of a prominent Tuscan winemaking family, was inspired to create wines of exceptional quality in the Bolgheri region. He planted Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, which led to the first vintage of Ornellaia in 1985. The estate's commitment to quality and expression of the terroir quickly gained recognition for the wines, leading to international acclaim.

Over the years, Ornellaia's ownership changed hands, though its dedication to quality remains a constant. Robert Mondavi acquired a minority stake in 1999 and full ownership in 2002. The Mondavi Corporation later entered into a partnership with the Frescobaldi family, another distinguished name in Tuscan winemaking. In 2005, the Frescobaldi family became the sole proprietor of Ornellaia, and continues to manage the estate today. 

Throughout its history, Ornellaia has benefited from the expertise of talented winemakers, including André Tchelistcheff in its early years, and Michel Rolland as a long-time consultant. Most recently, Axel Heinz served as the winemaker and Estate Director for over 17 years, and his legacy includes a project called Vendemmia d'Artista which involves collaboration with artists for special vintage releases. The current production manager for both Ornellaia and the super ultra-premium brand is Masseto is Marco Balsimelli.

First released in 1997, Le Serre Nuove is the 'Second' wine of ultra-premium Ornellaia, produced to broaden the selection of wines crafted during the crafting of the base wines of Ornellaia. It is produced mainly from younger vines, but crafted to match the profile of freshness, accessibility and flexibility with structure, balance and intensity that showcase the great terroirs of the producer’s properties.

This was an ideal pairing with the zesty lasagna. 

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove 2019

The 2019 Le Serre Nuove Dell'Ornellaia is 54% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot. 

This release was rated 95 by James Suckling, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Decanter and Wine & Spirits, 93 points by Vinous and Wine Spectator, and 92 by Jeb Dunnuck.

Winemaker's notes - “With its hallmark deep colour, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2019 has a lively balsamic vein. Soft and silky, elegant tannins and an enduring savoury finish fill the mouth.” - Olga Fusari – Winemaker - May 2021.

Winemaker Notes - “With its usual intense color, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2019 has a nose full of fresh notes of ripe red fruits, accompanied by a lively balsamic vein with aromatic hints of cypress and eucalyptus berries. The wine is soft and silky in the mouth, filling it with an elegant tannic texture and a sapid and persistent finish.”

The winemaker’s description of “lively balsamic” best describes the predominate flavor sprite of this wine. Dark garnet colored, full bodied, the black currant and blackberry fruits are accented by that layer with savory notes of smoke, rosemary spice, black pepper, leather and hints of creosote and cedar with a lively moderate tannin laced finish.  

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4080770

https://www.ornellaia.com/en/

https://twitter.com/Ornellaia

Angus Barn Raleigh, NC

Beefsteak and wine dinner at legendary Angus Barn Raleigh, NC  

We traveled through Raleigh (NC) enroute to Fayetteville, NC to visit extended family. Laying over overnight, we dined at the historic Angus Barn Restaurant. 

The Angus Barn in Raleigh, North Carolina, is an institution with its award winning Wine Cellar that has over 25,000 bottles of wine from around the world. We dined at Angus Barn and toured the wine cellar during a previous visit back in 2009.

The Angus Barn was founded in 1960 by Thad Eure, Jr. and Charles Winston with the objective to provide “incomparable hospitality; excellent value; a meal of impeccable quality; and the rich, rustic Americana ambiance”.  

In 1959, they bought 50 acres along NC Highway 70, halfway between Raleigh and Durham near what would become Research Triangle Park and Raleigh-Durham International Airport (RDU). At the time, RDU was little more than a landing strip with fewer than 20 flights daily. Twelve years later Crabtree Valley Mall was built down the road near Raleigh.

When banks declined Eure and Winston search for funding, politely referring to their venture as “impossible” and “a poor risk.”, Eure turned to his father, the late North Carolina Secretary of State Thad Eure, Sr., for the capital to pursue their dream. 

In 1960, Eure and Winston opened their restaurant with a steak-and-potato-based menu serving highest quality aged western beef. 

Today, that legend continues under the ownership of Van Eure, daughter of the late Thad Eure, Jr. The Barn serves an average of 22,000 steaks per month, but the menu also features poultry, seafood and pasta.

The Angus Barn is consistently one of the nation’s 50 highest-grossing independent restaurants, consistently ranked as one of the 100 best restaurants in the US. 

In February, 1964, the Angus Barn was destroyed by fire. They rebuilt a new Barn doubling the seating capacity. Eure and Winston, vowed to provide jobs to each Angus Barn employee during reconstruction, finding jobs for employees at other area restaurants or in construction jobs. To open within one year of the fire, shifts were created to rebuild around-the-clock. They beat the one-year deadline reopening in January, 1965.

Its a great story that in November of 1983, after eighteen years in partnership, Eure and Winston decided to part ways. The quandary: Who would sell his share of the Barn to the other was resolved in a Southern gentlemen way. They agreed to a coin toss. The person who won the toss would decide whether to buy or to sell. Winston won. And Winston decided to sell. Winston went on to become one of the most respected hoteliers and restaurateurs in the southeast.

In 1979 the “liquor by the drink law” changed in North Carolina, allowing restaurants to serve alcoholic beverages by the drink. The owners sacrificed their offices and converted them into the Wild Turkey Lounge, named for Thad’s extensive wild turkey decanter collection.

The collection of more than 400 turkeys grew by another 200 to today’s collection of more than 600 decanters, displayed throughout the Wild Turkey Lounge, and is the largest private collection in existence.

Thad Eure, Jr., who earned a reputation nationally and statewide as “Mr. Hospitality,” succumbed to cancer in November of 1988 at the young age of 56. Numerous honors and tributes followed. Having served as president of both the North Carolina Restaurant Association and the National Restaurant Association, annual awards were established in his honor. 

In 1989, Wine Spectator magazine awarded its coveted Grand Award upon Angus Barn, an honor to be repeated each year for the next twenty-plus years. Built on Thad, Jr.’s vision to build a wine list to rival the best California restaurants, in 1991, Alice and Van transformed the stacked boxes and cases of wine in a place called “the cages” into a spectacular, 28,000 bottle wine cellar complete with in-cellar dining rooms. The legendary cellar rivals celebrated restaurant wine cellars throughout the US and the world, featuring 25,000 bottle of 1,200 different labels.

We toured the Angus Barn wine cellar during a previous visit with daughter Erin back in 2009.

After Alice Eure passed in October, 1997, many speculated that Van would simply sell the Barn. The Angus Barn continues under the stewardship of their daughter Van Eure, who continues expanding and building upon her parents’ dream.

In 2008 Van and husband Steve Thanhauser opened The Pavilion on the Angus Barn property, a 400 seat lakeside venue to accommodate special events. 

For dinner we each ordered steaks which were excellent, prepared perfectly and served hot with delectable accompaniments - mashed potatoes and fresh veggies.  

From the extraordinary extensive wine list I ordered a Napa proprietary red wine. Dining with Sis/in-law Pat, I ordered a wine from a producer we visited together, the David Arthur estate up on Pritchard Hill in the southern Vaca Mountain Range sitting at about 1000 feet overlooking the Silverado Trail of Napa Valley during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013. 

David Arthur Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2019

After nearly forty years of farming grapes up on Pritchard Hill, David Arthur released this new label, “the Next Generation of David Arthur Vineyards wine ~ DAV, a wine crafted for accessibility and near-term enjoyment in its youth, yet offering greater nuance and complexity afforded with cellaring.” 

This Bordeaux-style label is a blend of mountain-grown Bordeaux varietals from the David Arthur estate along with “the best of surrounding vineyards within the Napa Valley”. 

This wine is aged an average of 20 months in French oak barrels.

Producer’s Tasting Notes - “A dark cerise color offering an array of fruit and spice aromas; bright cherry, red raspberry, baked cassis, and plum followed by notes of anise, baking spices, garrigue and cherry cola. The palate is soft and plush with fine-grained tannins offering beautiful acidity and structure. The finish is long and silky with flavors of candied plum, tamarind, brown sugar and molasses.”

This label was awarded 94 point by James Suckling, 92 points by Vinous, and 91 by Wine Spectator. 

This is a traditional Bordeaux varietals blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot - 2,568 cases were produced. 

Bright garnet colored, medium to full bodied, nicely balanced, bright vibrant, smooth and lush, ripe black berry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of spice, sweet tobacco, cassis, with hints of mocha and herbs de Provence turning to fine grained tannin on a polished finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5062564

https://www.davidarthur.com/wines/proprietary-red/

https://mcnees.org/dinesite/Dinesites/DineSite_Raleigh_Angus_Barn.htm

https://www.angusbarn.com/

https://twitter.com/angusbarn

Conn Creek Anthology 2010

Conn Creek Anthology 2010 with meatloaf for an ideal pairing 

With left over meatloaf from Entourage dinner the night (Pirouette BYOB with Familiar Favorites at Entourage DG), I pulled from the cellar this Bordeaux Blend as an accompaniment.

Conn Creek Anthology 2010 

Conn Creek, located in the historic Rutherford district along the Silverado Trail, has been producing Napa Valley Bordeaux-styled red wines since 1973 when it was founded by Bill and Kathy Collins. 

In 1979, they built what is now Conn Creek Winery in the Rutherford appellation, on the namesake Conn Creek, at the intersection of Silverado Trail and Conn Creek Road, across from the trailhead of Sage Canyon Road. 

The facility was perhaps one of the first “green” winery building in Napa Valley with 12”-thick walls made of Styrofoam, steel mesh, gunite and a total of 20,000 corks. 

Conn Creek were pioneers, among a small group leading Napa Valley’s emergence as a fine wine growing region on the world stage. That effort continues today, nearly 40 years later, as Conn Creek produces a portfolio of ultra-premium Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietal wines.

Conn Creek’s winemaker is Jean Hoefliger, born and raised in Switzerland, his winemaking background includes some of the leading vineyards from some of the world’s most esteemed wineries from Bordeaux to South Africa including Château Lynch-Bages, Château Carbonnieux, and Meerlust. 

After earning a degree in viticulture and enology from the prestigious Swiss Federal School of Changins, Jean set out for California, where he spent five years crafting quality wines as Winemaker at Newton Vineyard. 

Recognized for his visionary approach, Jean was tapped by Alpha Omega as both Winemaker and General Manager. His stature in the industry grew, and by 2005, he expanded his expertise as a Consulting Winemaker for renowned producers in Napa Valley, Switzerland, and Italy. His clients included Howell Mountain’s Clark Claudon, the ultra-premium Decades 5, Armanino Family Cellars, Yount Ridge, and Speratus, as well as Conn Creek.

Notably, both Newton and Clark Claudon feature prominently in our cellar collection. 

This label Anthology is the Conn Creek flagship label, named for a Greek word that refers to a collection of literary or artistic works akin to its Bordeaux blend crafted from a collection of Napa Valley’s notable vineyards and diverse AVAs. 

Anthology is sourced from nearly all of Napa Valley’s appellations. 

The 2010 Anthology is a blend of all the designated Bordeaux varietals: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 3% Malbec.

It is comprised of vineyard lots selected from the following appellations: Cabernet Sauvignon from Atlas Peak - Stagecoach Vineyard, Stags Leap District, Howell Mountain - Hughes Vineyards, St. Helena - Collins Vineyard, Oakville - Stanton Vineyard, Calistoga - Surber & Frediani Vineyards, Yountville - Herrick Vineyard, Carneros - Truchard Vineyard, and Mount Veeder: Cabernet Franc from St. Helena - Carpenter Vineyard, Atlas Peak - Stagecoach Vineyard, and Spring Mountain; Merlot from St. Helena - Collins Vineyard, and Atlas Peak - Stagecoach; Petit Verdot from Yountville - Tall Trees; and Malbec from Yountville - Herrick.

Winemaker’s tasting notes - “Anthology, is a testament to the layers of depth and complexity that can be achieved through the art of blending. Blackberries and plums nestle among cocoa, anise and wildflowers. On the palate a bright opening of black currants leads to a lingering finish of rich chocolaty tannins.

What a treat. This is what having a broad and deep wine cellar is all about! Finding a hidden gem bottle such as this for a wonderful pairing with some delicious food. As I’ve written numerous times in these pages - a great pairing of food and wine enhances and amplifies the enjoyment of both!

We had this release of this wine in a special event dinner back in 2014 - Conn Valley Anthology Highlights Capital Grill Board Room Dinner.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/09/conn-valley-anthology-highlights.html

At seventeen years, the important fill level and cork were in ideal condition, as were the foil and label, as shown. This was likely at the apex of its drinking window, not expected to improve further, but able to continue to age for superb drinking for several more years.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex but elegant and polished, nicely balanced and integrated blackberry and black currant fruits, accented by notes of mocha, anise and hints of floral and black tea, with silky tannins on a pleasant finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1392790

http://www.conncreek.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/09/conn-valley-anthology-highlights.html

https://conncreek.com/collections/library

Uriah Right Bank Blend with grilled beefsteaks

Uriah Right Bank Blend with grilled beefsteaks in celebration tribute

We attended grand-daughter Lucy’s graduation where she received several honors including giving a speech to the entire graduating class and guests. 

It’s hard to believe time passes so quickly and we’re so proud of her. 

We came home for a late dinner and pulled from the cellar one of our favorite wines from her birthyear vintage as our own mini tribute celebration. 

We ate some of the leftover ribeye steak from the other evening, along with baked sweet potatoes, ideally paired with this Right Bank Bordeaux blend. 

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyards Red Blend 2010

This was a fitting selection, not only as a birthyear vintage, but it is also a family oriented label and producer. All the Spring Valley Vineyars labels are named for a family member. This label “Uriah”, is named for the Spring Valley Vineyards founder Uriah Corkrum, grandfather of matriarch owner producer Shari Corkrum Derby. 

All of the Spring Valley wines are named for one of the ancestral or current family members and are showcased in an annual box set. Shown is our set commemorating the 2013 vintage releases, one of several in our collection. 

Uriah Corkrum was born in Walla Walla on June 1, 1866. He began successfully farming on his own during the 1880s. Unusual summer rain kept him from getting his harvested wheat to the warehouse so he lost everything in the depression of 1893. He persevered and, in 1897, acquired land in the area known as Spring Valley that is the site of the vineyards today. 

Uriah is featured on the flagship label Uriah Spring Valley Red Blend. This is our favorite label from the Spring Valley portfolio. 

Spring Valley Vineyard wines are all produced from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington. Washington State and regional powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates purchased the winery and the brand from the Derby family recently, but they continue to own and operate the vineyards.

We visited Spring Valley during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyardtasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, namesake for this label.

Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience, especially since he has since passed on. We posted a Tribute to Dean Derby and memorium of that visit - Spring Valley Vineyard toward the end of 2021.

The Uriah label from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington is a “Right Bank” Bordeaux Blend, meaning it is Merlot based like those from the northeastern or right bank of the Gironde River.

We hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label including birth year vintages of several of our grandkids. We’ve tasted and featured this label from many vintages numerous times in these pages as featured in this collection of posts - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=Uriah.

Spring Valley Vineyards “Uriah” Walla Walla Valley Red Wine 2010

This release was rated 94 points by Wine Spectator back in 2013, and was recognized “Top 100 Wines of 2013, Highly Recommended”.

In the Right Bank Bordeaux style this is 46% Merlot, 40%, Cabernet Franc, 6%, Petite Verdot, 5%, Cabernet Sauvignon and 3%, Malbec.

At fifteen years, the foil, label, and most importantly, the cork and fill level were perfect and this was likely at the apex of its drinking window, still young and capable of aging for several more years. 

I wrote about this wine back in 2013 when I wrote: “ This may be the most expressive Uriah I have tasted. It is the most complex on the front and most vibrant on the finish that I remember. We hold each vintage going back to 2002.”

Tonight was consistent with that earlier tasing. Dark ruby colored, full bodied, complex layers of tight spicy red currant and black raspberry fruits, accented by spicy clove, hints of smoky anise and tobacco, turning to a big mouthful of subtle cinnamon and hint of mocha on a tongue tingling acidic finish with smooth dusty tannins.

RM 92 points. 

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/12/spring-valley-vineyard-uriah-walla_19.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1267234

http://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

Big Reds with Tomahawk beefsteaks

Big Reds with Tomahawk beefsteaks 

With fellow ‘Pour Boy’, Lyle, and Terry, of our wine group at The Cove, our vacation rental in Destin (FL), we grilled out tomahawk ribeye beefsteaks.

For wine pairing with the dinner, Lyle brought this Sangiovese Brunello di Montalcino from his home cellar to share, and I opened, from our home cellar a Bordeaux varietal.

I was eager to taste this premium Brunello from this producer since we have some vintages of this label at home, and for a comparison with several Sangioveses we had a dinner the just the other evening.

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2016

I was eager to taste this premium Brunello from this producer since we have some vintages of this label at home, and for a comparison with several Sangioveses we had a dinner the just the other evening.  

The Uccelliera estate has 30 acres of vineyards almost entirely planted to Sangiovese, made up of vines between 5 and 45 years old. The site consists of sandy loam with presence of crumbled fossils in the zone of Castelnuovo dell’Abate.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is sourced from three vineyard sites on the sun-drenched southern side of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the southern half of the appellation. The vineyards sits at an average altitude of 150, 250 and 350 meters above seal level adjacent a natural barrier provided by the proximity to the height of Mount Amiata in the south-east side and of Poggio d’Arna in the south-west. 

Also, the nearby Orcia river provides a marine breeze rising up from its valley contributes to create a unique microclimate that is particularly well-suited to viticulture. This label consistently shows a sense of place of this specific Montalcino location.

Dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, smooth and balanced, plush, round, complex black raspberry and blackberry fruits with tones of dark chocolate, tobacco, licorice and spice with hints of mushroom and smoke, reserved with polished tannins.. 

RM 93 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3830792

https://www.uccelliera-montalcino.it/

To complement the dinner, I opened from our home cellar this Bordeaux varietal blend. 

Long Shadows "Pirouette" Columbia Valley Bordeaux Blend 2017

I wrote about this label in detail in a recent blogpost, Long Shadows Pirouette 2016 with beef roast.

I wrote, after enjoying the Long Shadows Pirouette 2014 at Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Linda prepared a beef roast and I pulled out the next vintage release of this label to enjoy, and compare with the earlier vintage in a mini-vertical comparison tasting. 

As I wrote in that recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, This is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. 

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

This label is produced by legendary winemakers Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, in collaboration with Agustin Huneeus, Sr.. another legendary wine producer. I;ve written about about Philip Melka numerous times in these pages including that recent Sullivan’s Steakhouse post and previously - Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016. I featured Huneeus in a recent blogpost here - Faust Napa Cab with St Pat’s Dinner.

We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection, and our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA) in these pages. 

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases. 

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to following the earlier release tasting. We supplemented our wine club allocation with several bottles of this label acquired at auction, some of which I took to Florida to our vacation rental home which we opened tonight. 

The 2017 Pirouette is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 13% Malbec, and the rest Petit Verdot, crafted from small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards.  It was aged 22 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new.

 

Winemaker notes - “The Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from a collection of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, gives Pirouette the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize this acclaimed growing region. A small percentage of old vine Cabernet from Sagemoor Vineyard, planted in 1972, adds complexity. Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine. Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills adds spice. Finally, Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot enhances the wine’s color and contributes to the wine’s layers of intense aromas and flavors.’

“The 2017 Pirouette has an expressive nose with a firm core of dark fruit and mocha flavors, displaying a layered concentration of black cherry and well-integrated oak spices. Vibrant and full-bodied across the mid-palate, this is a texturally pleasing wine with a broad and lengthy finish.” 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and International Wine Report, 94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 93 by Steve Tanzer.

Dunnuck wrote - “It can be drunk today but will develop additional complexity with 3-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades or more.”

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant expressive expressive vibrant blackberry, plum and black currant fruits with savory accents of cinnamon and clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and crème de cassis with smooth polished tannins on a sumptuous finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3581703

https://longshadows.com/library/pirouette/6951

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

@unwindwine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/long-shadows-cellars-feature-world.html

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff 

Linda prepared beef stroganoff with beef Bourgogne sauce and a tenderloin of beef. As is custom, I sought a Bordeaux varietal blend as a wine accompaniments with the beef. I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Bordeaux. 

This is the same vintage as another Bordeaux blend we drank just the other evening, then with grilled beefsteak. As with that other 2005 bottle, I wrote in a blogpost at that time, “ At twenty years of age, this is in its ‘Goldilock’s zone’, old enough to be fully integrated to reveal its complexity, to my preference, but still young enough to show the full expression of its fruits, which Linda likes. The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition. This is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and may age for another five or ten years before starting to diminish. 

This is what might be called the ‘second label’ of ‘Super Second’ Chateau Léoville Las Cases, considered one of the top producers in Bordeaux, arguably on par with the prestigious ‘First Growths’. 

Indeed, Las Cases, and our other favorite label, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, the other ‘super second’, abstain from participating in the UGCB, as they consider themselves worthy of the higher, highest classification. 

Producer Domaine de Léoville is one of the oldest estates in the Medoc dating back to the 17th Century. Historically owned by some of the wealthiest and most influential noble French families. The estate was split up between 1826 and 1840 as a result of the French Revolution as part of expropriation of emigrants’ property and subsequent egalitarian redistribution. 

Due to legacy birthright, the current Château Léoville Las Cases was created from 3/5 of the original estate including the heart of the domain. Pierre Jean, Adolphe and Gabriel de Las Cases were successive heirs to the property until 1900, when Théophile Skawinski purchased a share in the estate and became its manager, continuing control by the same family since the late 19th century to Today, represented by sole owner Jean-Hubert Delon. He also owns and is proprietor of Château Potensac in the Medoc and Château Nénin in Pomerol.

We were honored, and thrilled, to be hosted for private personal tours of the Château Léoville Las Cases estate (as well as Château Ducru Beaucaillou), during our trip to St Julien appellation in 2019, absolute highlight (s) of our trip to the region. 

Clos du Marquis St Julien Bordeaux 2005

This second labels provides more affordable wine from the legendary and illustrious estate for ‘once a week’ drinking, as compared to the ‘once a month’, less often special occasion, one a year drinking for the prestigious grand vin. 

The name is named for the Petit Clos adjacent to the Château de Léoville, residence of the Marquis de Las Cases. The wine was created at the beginning of the 20th century when the vineyard was planted. Since then, Clos du Marquis has become a historical brand of Domaines Delon, sourced from the separate vineyard adjacent to the grand vin Leoville Las Cases since being first released in 1902.

Leoville Las Cases vineyard adjacent Chateaux
Latour and Pichon Lalande, Baron, Poyferre.

The Clos du Marquis is produced from top terroirs of the Saint-Julien Appellation that were not exclusively part of the old Domaine de Léoville cadastre. These terroirs are located slightly to the west and are surrounded by prestigious Classified Growths, particularly Seconds Crus Classés of Saint-Julien and Pauillac: Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Pichon Longueville Baron. 

Notably, the Leoville Las Cases estate straddles the small creek that is the border between St Julien and Paulliac, and the legendary first growth Chateau Latour (shown above right). 

Clos du Marquis offers a representation of the finest Saint-Julien character for a fraction of the price of the higher classified growth labels showing structure, complexity, harmony, distinction and ageing potential.

Typical of the appellation, this release is a blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%, Merlot, 37%, Cabernet Franc, 12%, and Petit Verdot, 1%.

This release was rated 94/100 by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 by Wine Spectator, 92 by Decanter, and 91 by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

In 2024, Jeb Dunnuck wrote “It’s a beautiful, classic expression of the estate that will evolve for another two decades.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round, concentrated, structured but polished and balanced, blackberry and black currant and some red fruits with notes of tobacco, dark mocha, graphite. licorice with polished, integrated tannins on a long smooth finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224133

https://www.domaines-delon.com/en/clos_du_marquis-chateau_clos_du_marquis_vins.html 

Meatloaf, Sweet Potatoes and Andrew Will Two Blondes Red Blend

Meatloaf, Sweet Potatoes and Andrew Will Two Blondes Yakima Valley Red Blend

On our first night back home from family vacation, Linda prepared a delectable diner of meatloaf with roasted carrots, potatoes and sweet potatoes. I pulled from the cellar a perfect wine that proved to be a wonderful pairing that enhanced the enjoyment of the dinner as well as the wine. 

The blend of this label was exactly what I was seeking … nearly similar amounts of nicely balanced and integrated Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Cabernet Franc for a nicely balanced, complex wine. 

I have a mini vertical (multiple vintages of same label) of this label dating back two decades to 2003, that I have been holding for the chance to drink with fellow wine buddy and Pour Boy Bill C. This is based on fun with the label that bears the name of two of his sons, Andrew and Will, as well as of the producer. With Bill and Beth having moved away to Charleston, our wine escapades are vastly fewer. Having just returned from a wine weekend together - OTBN 2025 in Charleston, it was a fitting time to try this wine which proved to be a perfect pairing with the dinner. 

This is from Andrew Will Cellars winery located in Zillah Washington, just outside of Yakima which is named for the two sons of owner winemaker Chris Camarda. Following a successful career on Wall Street, Chris founded the winery, releasing his first vintage back in 1989. His focus was ‘the primacy of the vineyard over variety’. "I believe that an individual piece of property can form a signature—an identity—and it is that face that is the focus of my winemaking."

The first two vineyards used were Ciel du Cheval and Champoux, later to be supplemented with fruit from May’s Discovery and Two Blondes vineyards. 

After a decade of purchasing fruit from top vineyards in Washington State, Chris plant his own vineyard, Two Blondes, in 2000. This enabled him to not only control the varietals planted which are the Bordeaux varietals but also the clones. Clonal variety was particularly important to him as a winemaker. The 30 acre vineyard located in the Yakima Valley AVA was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. The vineyard manager was and is Chris Hoon.

Andrew Will produce about 4500 cases of wine a year. In addition to blends they produce from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, they also produce some limited Sangiovese from fruit grown at Ciel du Cheval. 

In the early years they produced varietal bottlings but in 2003 they took a vow “to make as fine a wine as we could through blending the most important varieties we grow in Washington”. 

Our holdings of this producer all date back to and from that 2003 vintage, all acquired at auction. 

Chris was named as one of the 50 most influential winemakers in the world, he has been an innovative leading producer of Washington State wines and became known for single vineyard blends.

The Two Blondes Vineyards is named for Chris Camarda’s late wife, Annie, who was a 6’2” blonde, and their partner in the vineyard, Bill Fleckenstein’s wife, Melody, who is also blonde.

Camarda selected the 30 acre site because of the excellent grape soil and climate. Two Blondes is not threatened by freezes as well as being just cool enough to insure a modulated ripening process even in warm years. The site has none of the draw backs they see in some areas of the state that can alternate between devastating freezes and heat in excess of 100 degrees.. 

Andrew Will Cellars Two Blondes Vineyards Washington State Yakima Valley Red Wine 2004

This Bordeaux Blend is a single vineyard designated label sourced from their estate vineyard. This release was a blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot. Later releases of this label (2018) were aged 35% new French oak for 22 months with just under 7,000 bottles produced.

At twenty years of age, I was concerned this might be past its primacy but this was absolutely delicious, exceeding our expectations, clearly at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve any further with aging. This was a Goldilocks wine, appealing to Linda who prefers younger more expressive wines, and me who enjoys those with more complexity and maturity. 

The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced, silky smooth and polished, seductive integrated and balanced with ripe black and blue fruits with notes of sweet mocha, anise, spices, hints of lavender and tobacco leaf, with long lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?290399

https://www.andrewwill.com/

https://twitter.com/andrewwill

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2007

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2007 

With grilled beef tenderloin I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Napa Valley Red Bordeaux Blend. 

We hold more than two decades of this label dating back to the inaugural release in 1993. This is part of a case we acquired of this label at the release party at the winery high atop Howell Mountain, so it is one we know well. 

I have written about Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in these pages many times including this detailed blogpost back in 2019, and again in 2021 in this post - Tomahawk Rib-eye Dinner features Robert Craig Affinity Duo, both partially excerpted below.

Robert Craig is one of our favorite Napa Valley producers and represents one of our largest holdings in our cellar. We've held many wine dinners with Robert and Lynn Craig and attended many events at the estate and winery. We have many fond memories of those dinners, lunches and other tasting events, and hearing Robert talk about this label.

We visited Robert Craig's site high atop Howell Mountain several times with sister Jan and bro-in-law Bill, and wine buddy Bill and Beth C. One of our memorable trips featured a picnic lunch at the site overlooking the  valley below shown below. It was during that trip that Bill discovered and subsequently sourced Howell Mountain Cabernet, Affinity and Robert Craig Zinfandel which they served at daughter Krista's wedding.

With Robert Craig at the estate high atop Howell Mtn 
back in 2008.

As mentioned above, we hold as many as two decades of Robert Craig’s portfolio of labels’ vintages dating back to the inaugural vintage release in 1993. This label, Affinity, represents the Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon based blend of Cabernet Sauvignons and other Bordeaux varietals sourced from the various Napa Valley appellations.

Robert Craig flight of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons

This is the Bordeaux Blend of the Robert Craig portfolio that Robert always took immense pride in this label, as the entry level introduction to his 'three mountains and a valley' appellation select Napa Cabernets, referring to his appellation designated premium labels from Mt Veeder, Howell Mtn and Spring Mountain. There were also bottlings from Atlas Peak and Mt George and in later years he would say ‘five mountains and a valley’. He also took pride in this providing early gratification quality drinking at an early age, yet as shown tonight, it has some longevity for aging for a decade or more.  

He used to speak fondly of this label and the QPR - quality price ratio it provided, as he strived to hold the price point of this wine to provide excellent value and be a draw to the Robert Craig brand. The appellation designated labels sold for twenty to thirty percent more. I wrote recently about the discontinuation of the Mt Veeder label after two decades of being one of the flagship labels, and was Robert's favorite. 

I wrote back in 2019 about Robert's passing in a Tribute to Robert Craig, when the business turned over to new leadership.

Robert never promoted or played up the fact this label was a carefully crafted  Bordeaux Blend comprising all the Bordeaux varietals rather focus on it as an introduction to the portfolio of Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets.

Robert Craig "Affinity" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2007 

This release was awarded 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points Wine Enthusiast.
We first tasted this wine from a barrel sample and acquired this release during the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party '09 back in 2009. 

Robert Parker wrote in 2009, "Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the next 15 or possibly 20 years. This is the best group of wines I have ever tasted from Robert Craig Winery. Not only is there not a single disappointment in this portfolio, but these are all noteworthy wines, with thrilling levels of quality. Moreover, they are moderately priced for Napa Valley as well as ageworthy. I think these are the finest wines that I have ever tasted from Robert Craig Cellars."

Wine Enthusiast wrote of this release, 'Craig has produced his best bottling since the late 1990s'.
This year’s blend is heavier on the petit verdot, with a composition of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. 

Back in 2022 I wrote, “this exceeded my expectations for this label and indeed was one of the best drinking Affinity's in memory. At fifteen years, this seems to reaching the apex of its drinking profile. Tonight, this 2007 release was as good as any Affinity I recall ever having - a perfect accompaniment to the grilled tenderloin beefsteaks. At eighteen years this was at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging, but available for pleasant drinking for several years yet to come. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, elegant, polished and smoothly balanced, black berry and black currant fruits with notes of mocha chocolate and spice, hints of cassis, smoke and cedar with smooth silky tannins on a lingering cloying finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=802059

Other related postings … 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/04/tomahawk-rib-eye-dinner-features-robert.html   

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/06/robert-craig-affinity-napa-valley.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/02/robert-craig-affinity-napa-valley.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/04/napa-vs-sonoma-2k-cabernet-duo.html  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/robert-craig-tribute.html

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1798118

https://robertcraigwine.com/

Visits to Robert Craig Estate - 

Harvest Party 2009 -  
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

Howell Mountain Estate Visit - 2008 
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

Kevin D Celebration of Life Gathering Dinner

Kevin D Celebration of Life Gathering Dinner

With extended family in town for Celebration of Life Ceremonies for in-law Kevin D, we hosted a dinner at our house on the eve of the weekend. 

Linda prepared beef tenderloin with mashed potatoes and haricot verts and Caesar salad. I pulled from the cellar a couple middle aged Bordeaux varietal blends, a ten year old and a twenty year old, for a wine accompaniment to the dinner. 

Chappellet "Mountain Cuvée" Napa Valley Red Blend 2015 

This is their standard bearer cuvée (blend) at a more affordable prime point than their signature and ultra-premium labels. We visited the Chappellet Estate Winery and Vineyards up on Altas Peak during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2009. It was then that we acquired a large format magnum of their Signature label from our anniversary vintage year 1974from their library, that we served at our 50th anniversary celebration dinner last autumn as featured in these pages - Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN.

I wrote about Chappellett in an earlier blogpost - Chappellet "Signature" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Thomas Smith, Sommellier and wine staffer at K&L wine store in Redwood City writes of this label - “I get a lot of customers who come into the store looking for a bottle of Napa Cab for a dinner they are on their way to. At $30 Napa Cab can be really hit and miss, but this Bordeaux blend is an absolute home run. This wine has tons of intensive fruit, is totally upfront an accessible, and an exceptionally balanced bottle that will wow the table from the moment it is opened. I can't stress enough the quality here, but anyone who loves full-bodied reds from Napa should really consider this a house wine whenever having guests for dinner. If you're looking to wow someone with a bottle, this is a total bullseye.”

“Chappellet’s Iconic Pritchard Hill Vineyards have been hailed by some as “Napa’s Grand Cru,” and particularly with Bordeaux Varietals. Following the advice of renowned winemaker André Tchelistcheff, by planting on the rocky, high-elevation slopes, Chappellet became one of the first wineries in Napa Valley to plant vineyards on the lofty hillsides. Nearly a half century later, their 2015 Mountain Cuvée still includes fruit from the winery’s coveted Estate Vineyard, and was expertly composed by renowned winemaker Phillip Titus, who’s been with Chappellet for nearly 30 years.” 

Chappellet is famous for Bordeaux varietals, with It's high elevation terroir on the Eastern side high above and overlooking Napa, on Pritchard Hill. There the grapes achieve maximum ripeness, basking in the long exposure to sunlight on the Vaca mountain range. 

This 2015 Mountain Cuvee’ is a blend of  all five of the Bordeaux varietals - 37% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bordeaux producers have been experimenting with the blend composition for more than five centuries. We American;’s in our half century of producing such wines can learn from their experience. 

Merlot predominates on the Right Bank (of the Gironde River) while Cabernet Sauvignon rules on the ‘Laft Bank’. In each case, they add Malbec into the mix for enhanced body, Petit Verdot adds depth, structure, body and deep color, while Cabernet Franc adds breadth and spiciness. 

I love both for their complexity, breadth and depth with beef and hearty dishes - favoring Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon based on desire for more or less intensity as Merlot tends to be softer and more velvety to moderate or balance the firmer and more structured Cabernet.   

Winemaker notes - “The Wine Blended from the traditional Bordeaux varietals, including our own coveted grapes, the Chappellet Mountain Cuvee Proprietors Blend builds on our five decades of experience crafting great Napa County mountain grown wines. Each component varietal in the cuvée contributes nuances that complement each other. The result is a complex array of aromas and flavors that deliver pure pleasure in a glass. Made for more near-term enjoyment, this is the wine to choose when youre looking for vivid, mouthfilling fruit flavors.”

Tasting Notes - This inviting wine offers a complex array of elegant aromas that include spicy red fruit, black cherry, sage, anise, clove and cocoa powder. The palate is silky and balanced, with a plush, mouth coating texture that makes the wine immediately approachable and delicious. Flavors of red currant and cassis are underscored by hints of smoke and vanilla, while seamlessly integrated tannins add length and structure to this complex blend of Bordeaux varietals.

This was much better than I remember it upon release and at ten years, it has clearly benefited from some cellar aging and is probably at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further, but available for enjoyable drinking for several more years. 

Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, complex and concentrated, full and round but nicely integrated and polished, black and blue berry and plum fruits with notes of dark chocolate, cassis, black cherries, and hints of smoky tobacco leaf with moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2630305

https://chappellet.com/
https://twitter.com/Chappellet_wine 
@Chappellet_wine

Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “XI” Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 

In consideration of Kevin’s Irish heritage and fondness for all things ‘green’, I pulled from the cellar a Red Winemaker from a producer with similar roots. 

Dunham Cellars is a family owned winery located in a remodeled World War II airplane hangar in Walla Walla, Washington. Eric Dunham discovered wine sampling from his parent’s cellar collection. Then during several years serving in the Navy, stationed at Moffett Field in Santa Clara County in the San Francisco Bay area, Eric continued to pursue his passion trekking up to the Napa Valley as often as time permitted. 

After the Navy, seeking to pursue wine in earnest, Eric landed a 6-month internship at Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Washington. He then hired on as Assistant Winemaker at L'Ecole No. 41 in the Walla Walla Valley. With Winemaker Marty Clubb's blessing, Eric began making small lots of Dunham wine at L'Ecole, the first bottling being the 1995 Dunham Cabernet Sauvignon I. 

By 1999, he set up to devote his full attention to his wines and together with his parents, Mike and Joanne, they opened the winery at Walla Walla Regional Airport. They were joined a couple years later by David and Cheryll Blair.

Dunham Cellars sought out and selected the finest fruit from several renowned estate vineyards in the Walla Walla and Columbia Valley Appellations. Working in collaboration between its growers and winemaker, they strive to capture and showcase the select fruit from these vineyards with their combination of climate, soil and geography.

We drove by the winery situated in a remodeled World War II era airplane hangar on the north edge of Walla Walla (Washington) during our Walla Walla AVA Wine Experience visit to the region back in 2018,  as we exited town on our way out of town to see the Spring Valley vineyards northeast of town.

In addition to winemaking duties, Eric Dunham is also an accomplished chef and artist painter. While unpretentious and modest on the outside, Dunham boasts a good-sized hospitality center in the large room known as the Hangar Lounge. The eclectic space, decorated with some of Eric Dunham’s personal original artwork on the walls. Some of Eric’s artwork also appears on certain Dunham Cellars wine labels.

Since Dunham’s inaugural release of the 1995 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “I”, Eric has served as winemaker for Dunham Cellars from the beginning. Starting with the 2008 vintage, Dan Wampfler joined Dunham Cellars as winemaker and now Eric took on broader duties as Director of Wine.

Today, Dunham produce a half dozen reds, Bordeaux varietals and a Syrah, and a couple of whites. I particularly enjoy their Bordeaux Blend, Trutina, which I find provides very good QPR - Quality Price Ratio, in a moderately priced sophisticated blend that encompasses all five of the Bordeaux varietals, sourced from fruit across the Columbia Valley. Their 2021 Trutina was awarded 93 points by James Suckling and Owen Bargreen 92 by Wine Enthusiast and International Wine Repor, and 90 by Jeb Dunnuck and Sean Sullivan.

This 2005 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “XI” is the eleventh edition of Dunham's signature Columbia Valley Cabernet that they distinguish with a Roman Numeral designating the release edition, hence this bears a ‘XI’ prominently on the label. 

While over the years, we accumulated close to a decade of vintages of this wine, we didn’t keep up with it and consume bottles, checking their maturation, managing our collection in a timely manner. As a result, at twenty years, this wine has lapsed beyond the apex of its drinking window, starting to decline and show diminution of fruit, begging to be consumed soon before it’s too far gone to be enjoyable. 

Never-the-less, brother-in-law to Kevin, Dr. Ken, enjoyed this and preferred it over the younger more vibrant Napa blend. 

Dark garnet colored with a slight murky cloudiness beginning to set in, tight, blackberry and black cherry fruits are starting to give way to leather, tobacco and leafy black tea flavors with notes of smoke and tar with a moderate tannin finish. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?520923

https://www.dunhamcellars.com/