Viader Napa Valley Proprietary Bordeau Red Blend 1997
Our first dinner with the newlyweds Alec and Viviana upon their arrival in Illinois, Linda prepared a beef roast and I pulled from the cellar this Viader Napa Valley Red Blend. As I have written in these pages, this is one of the numerous "V" labels we have fun with as a tribute to our new daughter-in-law, Viv.
We met proprietor winemaker Delia Viader at a tasting hosted by Binny's Chicago Lakeview back in 2005, and visited the property on lower Howell Mountain in 2008.
Our collection of Viader dates back to this 1997 vintage so it was with
interest to see how this vintage has held up over the years to
calibrate the lifespan of the other vintages. In the style of many
Viader releases, this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38%
Cabernet Franc in the profile of a top Graves from Bordeaux.
We expanded our collection of Viader wines following our visit to the Viader winery estate on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008.
A travelogue of photos of our visit to the Viader are shown here or a selection are featured in the follow-on blog.
We have since acquired and still hold close to a dozen vintages dating back to this 1997 release. As usual, as part of cellar collection management, I pulled this '97 vintage release, the oldest vintage in our collection.
The Viader 23-acre estate sits on the lower mountain at 1200 foot elevation overlooking Napa
Valley. The vineyards are planted to
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Viader is
known for its Bordeaux-style blends.
The 1200 foot elevation of the estate is significant and notable as that is
the height that the fog reaches above the valley floor and hence is the
point at which below is designated Napa Valley, and above it designated
Howell Mountain. This climatic difference creates a distinctive terroir due to the
effects of the fog on the ripening vines.
 |
Napa Valley view from the Viader estate
|
This follows
our tasting last evening of another of the 'V' series of labels we enjoy with and in tribute to to Viviana, the Venge Vineyards Scout's Honor.
The
'V' is the prominent branding of the producer and winemaker
Delia Viader,
a remarkable and impressive lady who was born in Argentina and educated
in Europe before earning graduate
degrees in the U.S., a notable role model for any career minded female. Delia spent much of her formative
years in Europe and in France where she earned a doctorate in Philosophy
from the Sorbonne University in Paris, then pursued advanced
business studies in the US at MIT, UC Berkeley and UC
Davis.
Recognizing
the potential Napa Valley wine industry in the 1980's, Delia acquired the Howell Mountain
property and set out to create a world class wine estate, and continued studying Enology and
Viticulture at University of California, Davis. During this time she also raised her four
children in the wine environment and culture.
Shown here is our
meeting Delia Viader during a producer tasting evening sponsored by Binny's here in Chicago back in 2005.
Viader Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 1997 This release was awarded 97 points
Wine Spectator and was Ranked #2 Top 100 Wines of 2000.
It received 92 points
from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate who wrote, "The terrific 1997 Proprietary Red is the finest Viader I have
tasted. It is a wine of exceptional finesse and elegance, yet undeniable
richness and intensity."
We acquired this label upon release and I first tasted and published a tasting note back in May 2000 when I wrote, "Supposed to be one of
California's best Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, this
mountain-grown wine is bold yet moderately structured, currant,
blackberry, cassis and herb flavors. I found this unexciting and a bit
flat - perhaps it needs more time... (RM 89)."
My lackluster rating at that time was somewhat typical of my experiences with the 1997 vintage that underwhelmed relative to its lofty ratings and high volume hype. Indeed, it took a decade or more for many of the labels to emerge and open up and reveal their true character and profile and live up to their potential.
Here is another example where, at two decades, it is now showing vibrancy in the fruits, moreso than when young. It showed subtle signs of diminution from aging with ever-so-slight signs of opacity and rust color hues setting in with a bit of funkiness as fruits give way to non-fruit notes, mostly upon opening which burned off somewhat after an hour.
The fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork, as shown, were perfect, as if new.
Vinous wrote in 2017, "This wine has a distinctly cool element, as well as
more fruit retention than the Cask 23, and I could easily enjoy it for
dinner tonight. Supple and fully evolved; seems just past its
peak even if sweetness remains."
Dark garnet color with hues of purple, medium full bodied, complex but nicely balanced, black cherry, black currant fruits with notes of spice, toasty oak and hints of graphite and dark mocha on the tangy crisp acid and smooth silky tannin laced finish.
RM 92 points.
@viader_napa
