Fantesca celebrates newest grand-daughter arrival

Fantesca fantasy label celebrates newest grand-daughter arrival - family fun with Fantesca continues … 

A quiet celebration at home for the arrival of our newest grand-daughter, and her courageous mom, we opened this whimsical label that celebrates a legendary harlequin. Seeking a Cabernet to enjoy paired with a selection of artisan cheeses and pate’, we pulled from the cellar an aged vintage bottle from one of favorite producers, Napa Valley Spring Mountain District, Fantesca. 

(Of course, readers of these pages saw our gala family celebration dinner several weeks ago revealing the name and anticipating Ryleigh’s arrival, featured in this post - Family Celebration Dinner at Mesón Sabika Naperville.)

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

We hold nearly two dozen vintages of this producer, one of our favorites, in our cellar holdings. 

We have been fans of Fantesca since the estate was taken over and the brand was established by Duane and Susan Hoff back with the 2004 vintage release. We hosted new owner/producer Duane Hoff at our home on one of his first release tours when he was traveling the country building the Fantesca brand, then enjoyed visiting the magnificent estate Chateau several times for tastings and tours, as chronicled in these pages in these blogposts:

We tasted and acquired early releases of this label during our visits to the Fantesca Estate on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley. Following meeting and hosting producer Duane Hoff here in Chicago in 2006, we visited the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007, and again in 2011. 

Initially, the early year 2002-2007 vintages from the estate were crafted and managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge - some of our favorite winemakers and producers of a broad collection of wine holdings in our cellar. 

Then in 2008, Fantesca teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. The celebrated winemaker has been referred to as “The Wine Diva of Napa” and as “The First Lady of Wine.” She gained fame and recognition producing exceptional high quality wines that she produced for famous labels.

They then went on to bring on Master Sommelier DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador and evangelist. I met DLynn when he hosted a Penfolds Tasting that featured Legendary Grange at our local Binny's back in 2014, when he was Penfold's Ambassador and Education Director for that icnonic Australian producer. (Grange is one of the signature wines we hold for our son Alec, his birthyear vintage being named #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator). 

What fun to meet DLynn in person, having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix. We enjoyed seeing DLynn on the Amazon Prime Somm III documentary prominently wearing his Fantesca jacket.

We’ve had fun with and featured Fantesca labels in many special and family centric dinners such as this  Wine Dinner Featuring Spring Mountain Wines.

That tasting introduced the inaugural release of a new Fantesca label series inspired by the words of Winston Churchill:  “‘All great things’ are simple, and many can be expressed in a single word: freedom, justice, honor, duty, mercy, hope.”  

 

Each vintage release of the Fantesca “All Great Things” label commemorates one of those notable words from the legendary Churchill quote - freedom (2015), justice (2016), honor (2011, 2017), duty (2012, 2018), mercy (2013), and hope (2014) - this one christened the (first) "Honor" release. 

Fantesca wines have anchored several momentous dinners to follow, featured in these pages’ blogposts - Family Holiday Gathering brings out flight of varied reds, and Father Son World Cup wine tasting and  Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner.

Fantesca wines have also anchored many of our Pour Boys wine groups dinners such as this one -  Sea Smoke Gratis, King Richards, Del Dotto Highlight Beef Tenderloin Dinner; And this one - Pour Boys EM Team Hemmingway’s Dinner.

We featured and wrote about the “All Great Things” label and branding in earlier blogposts in these pages back in April, 2023 - Family birthday dinner at Son Ryan's features a flight of big red wines

This was served by son Ryan at grand-daughter MacKenzie's birthday, when Ryan and D-inlaw Michelle hosted a gala family celebration dinner. At that dinner Ryan served from his cellar several vintage premium wines including this interesting label from Fantesca. “All Great Things”, Freedom 2009.

Tonight, We pulled this bottle from a mixed OWC - Original Wood Case of a mini vertical collection of 2005-06 and ‘07 vintages, selecting the oldest twenty year old 2005 release for enjoying, tasting/pairing. The ultra-premium packaging features oversized etched glass bottles with painted branding identifiers. 

Linda prepared toast points from three different breads, served with two different preserves, Raspberry and Shiraz Blackberry, along with pate’ and olives, and a selection of artisan cheeses - Brie, Swiss, Gouda and English Stilton Blue, 

Always the creative and innovative marketers, Fantesca have fun with their ‘fortune-corkie’ program, featuring notable quotes on the corks, submitted by Fantesca fans. Winners whose quotes are selected are rewarded with magnums of Fantesca wines. 

What fun that tonight, opening Fantesca to celebrate the women in our family, and most notably the arrival of grand-daughter Ryleigh, the fortune cookie whimsically quips about women - from comedian George Carlin! 

We last opened this label BYOB for an anniversary dinner at one of our favorite eateries - Chez Joel French Bistro in Chicago - featured in this post - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/08/fantesca-spring-mtn-napa-cab-for.html.

Fantesca Spring Mtn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

At twenty years of age, the importantly fill level and cork (shown above) were still pristine. This is drinking at the apex of its drinking profile and still has life yet at this level - no need to hurry to consume remaining bottles in the cellar. 

Tonight’s tasting was similar to that BYOB Chez Joel dinner on the patio … The Fantesca was wonderful, a perfect selection for our intimate occasion, and a perfect complement to the Pate plate and then my New York Strip Steak with roquefort, as well as Linda's Salmon and asparagus entree.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, a mouthful of sweet red currant, spicy cinnamon, black cherry, black berry, cedar and lively acid with a long sweet spicy oak finish held together by finely integrated firm tannins.

Interestingly as I write an earlier blogpost, I had pulled and compared my tasting notes to an earlier review of this wine when I wrote' "Over a eleven hundred different wines in the cellar and I chose this one for our intimate anniversary dinner ...."

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355837

https://fantesca.com/

@FantescaWine

Clarendon Hills Astralis Shiraz 2005

Clarendon Hills "Astralis" McLaren Vale South Australia Syrah 2005 

Visiting The Cove, our vacation rental home in Destin, (FL), we opened this big red Shiraz with artisan cheeses and chocolates.

While this is the flagship of the extensive Clarendon Hills line which includes eight different Shiraz labels, in the past, I have preferred the style of their Piggott Range more. This has more of the tasting profile of the incredible Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz we’ve written about, not surprising, since this too is sourced from old vines, from their first vineyard planted in 1920. Like the Tanunda, Astralis has limited production of only 150 cases.

At a release and market price of $180, this is in the super ultra-premium stratosphere, even more than the Tanunda at a release price of $125. This is a classic example where taste is in the eyes of the beholder and all that matters is one's personal pallet preference.

I prefer any one of several of my favorite Shiraz labels that are all in the $70 to $90 range and a select few at even less. Of course, as I often write in this blog, the thrill of the hunt and ultimate quest is to find that high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine that offers the same satisfaction at a fraction of the (premium) price.

We tasted and wrote about this label back in 2014, then, the first bottle we have tasted from a case Ryan purchased and split with me at the time. - 

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/05/clarendon-hills-astralis-shiraz-2005.html

As part of its premium price-point, Astralis (like the Tanunda) comes with premium packaging in its own branded OWC, Original Wood Case (pictured left).

McLaren Vale is in south central Australia on the north-west of the Fleurieu Peninsula about 25 miles south of Adelaide. It is one of the oldest and highly regarded wine producing areas in the country. It was granted its appellation status, in Australia known as GI or Geographical Indication in 1997.

The climatic and geographical diversity of McLaren Vale is suitable for a wide array of grape varieties which are grown there including Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Mourvedre, which, together with Shiraz, make up some of the most acclaimed 'GSM' blends. Other varietals grown in the region in lesser amounts are Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Viognier.

McLaren Vale is also the source of white wine varietals, most notably Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Shiraz leads the region's list of award-winning wines with the best wines coming from very old vines, some planted more than 100 years ago.

This 2005 Astralis Vineyard Syrah is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1920 and is one of the few Syrah cuvees in which 100% new oak is utilized. Wine Enthusiast writes that
Astralis has become one of Australia's top collectible labels. The Winemaker for this label is Roman Bratasiuk.

This wine got huge reviews and scores from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (99 points), 96 points by Wine Spectator, 95 by Steve Tanzers IWC and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 by Wine and Spirits.  

Like the bottle we had a decade ago, at twenty years, this wine remains a bit subdued. As with many super highly rated wines, their profile reflects more a lack of negatives, than profound obtuse big sprites. 

Despite lacking those big forward fruit bombs, this is still a big unctuous, tongue-coating complex wine, deep dark inky purple colored wine with layers of concentrated ripe black and blue berry fruits with a layer of graphite and mineral, which in my opinion detracts from the fruit and other complementary tones of expresso, tobacco and spice box, leading to a smooth silky polished tannin lingering finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421401

http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/home.aspx

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf

Château Haut-Bages Libéral with meatloaf and artisan cheeses 

Following our BYOB dinner out at Entourage DG Friday, where we opened from our home cellar a twenty year old vintage Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux with their signature Meatloaf entree, I pulled another such wine to accompany the take-home leftovers for Sunday evening dinner at home for a mini horizontal tasting of the 2005 Bordeaux vintage. 

We also paired this with some artisan cheeses, “F.R.O.G.” (Figs, Raspberries & Oranges Spiced with Ginger) Preserves, crackers and pitted greek olives. 

This time I opened a Left Bank Pauillac Bordeaux rather than the Right Bank St Emilion we drank Friday. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral Grand Cru Classe’ 2005

This is from’ Fifth Growth’ producer (as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855),  Château Haut-Bages Libéral that sits on the outskirts of the town of Pauillac (hence the name of the Pauillac Appellation (AOC)), just down the road and adjacent to top producers Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Chateau Latour. 

We stopped at the estate winery and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience trip in 2019. 

Château Haut-Bages Libéral was established by and is named for the Libéral family who were négociants and vineyard owners in the early 1700’s, and for its position on the Bages plateau, like the similarly named well known neighbor Lynch Bages. 

The estate fell to lower quality and a state of somewhat disrepair during the wars and financial crises of the early 1900s, until the Cruse family (owners of Château Pontet-Canet at the time) purchased the property in 1960. 

The Cruse family engaged in widespread replanting of the vineyards and improved the quality, actually producing Haut Bages Liberal at Château Pontet-Canet for several years.

In 1983, they sold Chateau Haut Bages Liberal to the Taillan group. The Taillan group owns several chateaux in Bordeaux including: Chateau Gruaud Larose in Saint Julien, Chateau Ferrier in Margaux, Chateau Chaste Spleen, Chateau Camensac, Chateau Gressier Grand Poujeaux and Chateau Citran in the Haut Medoc, and Chateau Broustet in Sauternes.

In 2000, the Taillan group renovated and modernized the wine-making facilities at the Pauillac estate.

They sold the estate to the current owners, the Villars-Merlaut family, who continued improvement under the direction and leadership of Claire Villars-Lurton who also serves as winemaker. Along with her husband Gonzague Lurton, Claire Villars-Lurton also owns and manages Chateau Ferriere and Chateau La Gurgue in Margaux and Chateau Domeye in St. Estephe. They also make wine from Bordeaux varietals in Sonoma, California at their Trinite Estates vineyard.

The Château Haut-Bages Libéral estate consists of 75 acres of vineyards planted to 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. The main vineyard that surrounds the Chateau and winery sits next door to first growth Château Latour and shares the distinctive terroir with parcels of limestone soils, which some say lend elegance and finesse in a commune often known for power. 

Another vineyard sits across the road adjacent highly acclaimed Chateau Pichon Baron, which shares the classic Pauillac terroir consisting of gravel on chalk, clay, and limestone soils, and a third smaller parcel site is further inland. The average age of the vines is close to 35 years of age. 

Haut-Bages Libéral produces roughly 10,000 cases of wine per vintage, including this Grand Vin and their second wine (labeled as either Le Pauillac de Haut-Bages Libéral, La Chapelle de Bages, or La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral).

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2005

At twenty years old, this was holding better than the Château Larmande 2005 we opened Friday, which was beginning to shows signs of aging with a crumbling deteriorating cork and a slight fall-off of the fruit.

The important fill level and cork were both still near perfect, and the fruit aromatics filled the room as soon as it was opened (using an Ahso two pronged cork puller). Vinous wrote in 2021  “The 2005 Haut-Bages Libéral is a very young Pauillac that is just beginning to show the first signals of aromatic opening.” 

There’s still several years left of prime drinking in this vintage release. 

This wine, as I have often written, that in great vintages, “all boats rise with the tide”, such that lesser growth producers, and second and even third wines of top producers, delivers great QPR - quality price ratio, as it sells for a fraction of the price of its ultra-premium highly acclaimed neighbors. 

This release was awarded 92-94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Spectator, 91 by Vinous, and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, aromatic, opulent, moderately firmly structured rich round blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of licorice, spice, cigar box and forest floor, with smooth tannins on a big expressive finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224097

https://www.gc-lurton-estates.com/en/chateau-haut-bages-liberal.html

BYOB at Tuscany Bistro Sandestin Miramar Beach

BYOB at Tuscany Italian Bistro Sandestin Miramar Beach 

During a week to The Destiny East Cove, our Destin, FL vacation rental, we dined with friends/neighbors Richard and Vickie at their regular go-to dining spot, Tuscany Italian Bistro in the Sandestin. We took BYOB from our home cellar an ultra-premium Tuscan wine for the occasion.

I had the daily special, Osso Bucco with Papardelle pasta which was delicious and an ideal pairing with the big red Tuscan wine. 

The other highlights of the evening were the lamb chops and the lasagna. 

Vicki had her go-to favorite dish, and Chef/Proprietor Guglielmo's Favorite too! - LAMB ALLA TOSCANA New Zealand lamb chops, rosemary, garlic demi-glace, vegetable of the day …

The LASAGNA AL FORNO is a house specialty - Bolognese, ricotta, parmesan, and mozzarella cheese …

I first wine was this classic big red blend I brought BYOB from our home cellar. 

Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005

This is the last of a half case I acquired of this label nearly two decades ago. I wrote about this wine at ten years in this blogpost, Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato with Spaghetti, excerpted below, and previously - Rivetti Pin La Spinetta Castagnole Monferrato 2005.

Tonight, at twenty years this was drinking well, showing no signs whatsoever of diminution from aging. The foil, label, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition,  If I had more, it would continue to age gracefully and drink well for a half decade or more. 

This classic Italian red blend is from La Spinetta,  who produce a broad portfolio of premium Piedmont and Tuscan wines from traditional varietals in a new world style and flair.

This 'Pin' label is named after the nickname of Giuseppe Rivetti, the patriarch of the family and father of the current producer Giorgio, of the estate La Spinetta, which means 'top of the hill', in Castagnole Lanze in the northern Italian region of Tuscany. 

The family first purchased 70 hectares of Moscato and Barbera d'Asti vineyards in 1977 and have continued to expand operations through expansion and development since.

Today, Giuseppe's children — Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio and Giovanna have since taken over the family business, with Giorgio leading, assisted by elder sister Giovanna who is in charge of vineyard production.

Rivetti produced their first red Barbera Cà di Pian in 1985. The first release of Pin occurred in 1989, a blend of 50 percent Nebbiolo, 25 percent Barbera and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. which was revolutionary at that time.

In 1985 they produced their first Barbaresco followed by Gallina in 1995 and their first Barolo Campè in 2000. In 2001, La Spinetta acquired 65 additional hectares of vineyards in Tuscany where today they produce three different 100% Sangiovese wines. 

The Rivetti brand has grown internationally and today is well known, identified by their distinctive labels featuring a burly rhinoceros, which the Rivetti siblings say signifies quality.

Origins of the unique wildlife logo illustration come from an ancient woodcut by historic German artist, Albrecht Dürer, who prepared his drawings and woodcut from descriptions and sketches of a rhinoceros gifted to the king of Portugal from India. It was the first animal of its kind in Europe. 

The Rivettis lament that they fell in love with this ancient wood cut print and the legend behind it. Giorgio Rivetti expressed his great admiration of the celebrated drawing and woodcut. but has downplayed the connection between this animal and the brand.

 

Also depicted on the bottles of La Spinetta’s first Barolo Campè vintage, is a pencil drawing of a lion by Dürer, since Barolo is commonly known as the king of Italian reds. The legend continues. 

Pin Castagnole, Neive, Barbaresco Monferrato Rosso DOC 2005

This is a blend of 65% Nebbiolo, and 35% Barbera d’Asti Superiore Bionzo. Barbera and Nebbiolo are the two marquee red wine grapes of northwest Italy. They are often blended together in Piedmont to create modern style wines for the international palate. 

Nebbiolo, the powerful majestic grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, is blended with Barbera to be more approachable and smoother and balanced, and drinkable at an earlier age. Barbera adds cherry flavors to Nebbiolo’s distinctive strawberry, and the high acidity of both ensure the wine is fresh and rarely flabby.

When we tasted this back in 2016, I wrote, "As good as this was with the pasta and peas with vodka cream sauce, it was even better the following evening with char-grilled Pittsburgh style strip steak, asparagus and baked potato."

In our previous tasting of this label, at eighteen years, the fill level, label, cork and foil were in ideal condition. At this age, this may be at its peak, the apex of its drinking window, but it certainly has another decade of life yet, but I can't imagine it will improve further from aging.

Fortunately we bought a half dozen bottles when we acquired this back in 2010. That initial review, I rated it much lower and said "Dark purple color - Dense full bodied - ripe black fruits, with a slight edge and layer of cassis and subtle tar with a firm tannin finish. Might soften and settle with time." It certainly did benefit from another six years of aging in the bottle.

Tonight's tasting was totally consistent with that last review in 2016. I'll look forward to trying the last bottle, perhaps five years from now, or beyond. I wish I had more!

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, and was remarkably smooth, well balanced and polished. Bouquet and flavors are full forward complex black raspberry, black berry fruits punctuated by tones of oak, cedar, hints of earthy cassis and tar turning to silky smooth polished tannins with an elegant persistent finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

@LaSpinettaItaly

The La Spinetta Library … 



https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/11/rivetti-pin-la-spinetta-castagnole.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=395355

For a second wine pairing with dinner, Richard ordered from the wine list this hearty Barolo. 

Damilano Lecinguerigne Barolo 2018

Damilano wine company is one of the oldest wineries in Barolo dating back to 1890. 
The family business was started by Giuseppe Borgogno who cultivated and produced his own wine from the estate vineyards rising to one of the more prestigious labels in the Langhe area.  

Guiseppe Borgogno was the great-grandfather of the current owners. The tradition was kept up by Giacomo Damilano, the founder’s son-in-law, together with his children. 

In 1997 Giuseppe passed the winery on to his grandchildren Paolo, Mario and Guido who build on his legacy of their forefathers’ land producing the highest quality Damilano wines.

Driving on the Alba-Barolo county road, towards Alba, the winery is located at about 1.5 km from Barolo about on par with La Morra. The estate underwent a major renovation and is now features contemporary and functional architecture.

The vineyards, partly owned and partly leased, are situated in the most famous crus of the Langa region: Cannubi, Liste, Fossati, and Brunate, which are almost entirely cultivated with Nebbiolo da Barolo, and to a lesser extent, with Dolcetto and Barbera varietals.

Damilano "Lecinquevigne" Barolo 2018 

“Lecinquevigne" is a blend of 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from grapes from five premier vineyard sites in the Piedmontese municipalities of Brunate, Liste, Cerequio, Cannubi and Raviole. The south-east exposure facing vineyards represent the most suitable areas for the production of Nebbiolo. Crafting wine sourced from multiple vineyards allows for the incorporation of the terroir’ distinctive qualities of the calcareous-clay soil, climate and exposure to be incorporated into the wine. 

Winemaker Notes - Ruby red in color with orange reflections. An intense bouquet, with tertiary notes of rose, leather, tobacco and emerging notes of violet and tar. The palate is ample and embracing, with prevailing impressions of a soft, persistent long finish.

This release was rated  92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Wine & Spirits and James Suckling, and 91 by Wine Spectator. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, approachable dark cherry and black berry fruits with accents of rose, cedar, smoke and spice with tight, fine tannins and a focused finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4376521

https://cantinedamilano.it/

https://tuscanybistrodestin.com/

Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Returning from our Destin (FL) vacation home, we dined at our newest favorite go-to eatery, Entourage in nearby Downers Grove (IL). Planning to select their fabulous meat loaf or beef stroganoff entree, I took BYOB from our cellar this vintage aged premium Bordeaux Blend. 

I ordered what has become one of my favorite dishes, Wagyu Meatloaf Sundae - Truffle + Parmesan Whipped Potatoes, Brioche, Wild Mushroom Gravy,  Vegetable Succotash topped with Crispy Onions.

A mini horizontal tasting of sorts, following two other similar wines from this same vintage, I selected another 2005 vintage release of a premium label from the same appellation, region. 

I wrote about the other two labels in these two recent blogposts - Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff, and Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak.

Like the Clos du Marquis, this is also from the St Julien appellation, the Gruaud Larose estate sitting less than three kilometers (1.6 miles) away. 

And as we did with Leoville Las Cases, we also visited the Gruaud Larose estate during our visit to the area in 2019, as featured in my blogpost at the time - A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose St Julie Beychevelle Bordeaux. 

It was one of the key visits on our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux was Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

During our spectacular week in St Julien, we visited Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases, producers of the recently tasted Clos du Marquis featured in these pages, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and Léoville-Poyferré, three other second growth St Julien producers, and Fourth Growth  producers Château Beychevelle and Château Branaire-Ducru. As with all the others, we hold or have consumed a selection of Gruaud Larose dating back several decades to the early eighties. 

This label is one of my favorite Bordeaux and key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding. 

This is a wine that demands, but then rewards holding for the long term and several years if not decades of cellaring. 

Château Gruaud Larose is one of the most historic estates in the Médoc dating back to 1725 when Abbot Gruaud bought just under 125 acres of land and planted vineyards. Since then, four families have succeeded one another at the head of Gruaud Larose: the Gruaud and Larose families, the Balguerie and Sarget families, the Cordier family and the Merlaut family.

In 1812, the property was sold to Pierre Balguerie, Baron Jean Auguste Sarget and David Verdonnet.

Shortly after the official 1855 Classification of the Medoc, control of the property was split further among their descendants, but remained intact until 1867 when it was split into Château Gruaud-Larose-Sarget (after the Baron Sarget) and Château Gruaud-Larose-Faure (after Adrien Faure, who married the heiress to a portion of the estate).

Baron Sarget constructed the château on the property in 1875. The other half of the original vineyard remained with the Bethmann descendants. The wines were bottled and sold as both Chateau Gruaud Larose Faure and Chateau Gruaud Larose-Bethmann at different times.

The two château were reunited by the Cordier family, who purchased the Sarget piece in 1917 and the Faure piece in 1935 and the château became a centerpiece of the Cordier properties along with Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey and Château Talbot.  

The Cordier family had been negotiants since 1886. They acquired the Bethmann family holding in 1935. This allowed the Cordier family to recreate the original estate and the wine was renamed Chateau Gruaud Larose.

In 1983 it was purchased by the Compagnie de Suez, and in 1993 it was sold to the French conglomerate, Alcastel Alstom. In 1997 it was sold to Jacques Merlaut who also owns a broad portfolio of Bordeaux properties including Chateau La Gurgue, Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, Chateau Citran, Chateau Ferriere and Chateau Chasse Spleen. 

The Gruaud Larose Chateau and estate sits just outside the village of St Julien-Beychevelle at the southern end of the appellation located on the plateau to the west of Château Beychevelle. on the opposite side of the D2 Route from Ducru Beaucaillou and Leoville Barton.

The vineyards of Gruaud Larose have the highest point of elevation on the Saint Julien plateau and has a distinctive 'tower' which serves visitors a vantage point to view the entire estate.

The 200 acres of vineyards are planted in the Bordeaux sanctioned varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%) with old vines averaging 40 years.The vineyards are adjacent to those of Chateau Talbot and Chateau Branaire Ducru which have smaller parcels. The property is divided into 110 parcels with the best terroir found in the 2 sections that surround the chateau and that adjacent to the park.

Chateau Gruaud Larose is known for wines that are concentrated, complex, full-bodied and long-lived, best consumed after several years of aging, typically at least 12 years or more, and often reach their peak maturity and optimal drinking window after 15 years and often last 35 years or more after the vintage release.

Chateau Gruaud Larose on average produces close to 18,000 cases of Saint Julien wine each year.

The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats, and aged in oak barrels for 20-22 months, renewed annually in thirds. 35% new oak.

Château Gruaud Larose St Julien Grand Cru Classé 2005  

This release was rated 98 points by Jane Anson, 95 by The Wine Independent, and 94 by Wine Enthusiast.

Pundits wrote, “You have really had to be patient for this wine, but it is utterly spellbinding, and starting to show its potential.” And, “This is one of the best wines from Gruaud-Larose for several years.”

With a similar sensation of the near perfect 100 point wine we drank recently, this is more notable for its lack of blockbuster boldness, that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, it’s remarkable for it’s lack of excessive notes and it’s flawless, and seamless polish with it’s harmonic integration.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color. medium to full bodied, that signature St Julien finesse, elegant, polished, finely balanced black currant, black and hints of red berry fruits with notes of herbs, dark black chocolate, cassis, black tea, truffle, hints of cedar and spice with a smooth layer of graphite and crushed rocks with firm, fine-grained tannins on a long finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/224096

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff 

Linda prepared beef stroganoff with beef Bourgogne sauce and a tenderloin of beef. As is custom, I sought a Bordeaux varietal blend as a wine accompaniments with the beef. I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Bordeaux. 

This is the same vintage as another Bordeaux blend we drank just the other evening, then with grilled beefsteak. As with that other 2005 bottle, I wrote in a blogpost at that time, “ At twenty years of age, this is in its ‘Goldilock’s zone’, old enough to be fully integrated to reveal its complexity, to my preference, but still young enough to show the full expression of its fruits, which Linda likes. The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition. This is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and may age for another five or ten years before starting to diminish. 

This is what might be called the ‘second label’ of ‘Super Second’ Chateau Léoville Las Cases, considered one of the top producers in Bordeaux, arguably on par with the prestigious ‘First Growths’. 

Indeed, Las Cases, and our other favorite label, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, the other ‘super second’, abstain from participating in the UGCB, as they consider themselves worthy of the higher, highest classification. 

Producer Domaine de Léoville is one of the oldest estates in the Medoc dating back to the 17th Century. Historically owned by some of the wealthiest and most influential noble French families. The estate was split up between 1826 and 1840 as a result of the French Revolution as part of expropriation of emigrants’ property and subsequent egalitarian redistribution. 

Due to legacy birthright, the current Château Léoville Las Cases was created from 3/5 of the original estate including the heart of the domain. Pierre Jean, Adolphe and Gabriel de Las Cases were successive heirs to the property until 1900, when Théophile Skawinski purchased a share in the estate and became its manager, continuing control by the same family since the late 19th century to Today, represented by sole owner Jean-Hubert Delon. He also owns and is proprietor of Château Potensac in the Medoc and Château Nénin in Pomerol.

We were honored, and thrilled, to be hosted for private personal tours of the Château Léoville Las Cases estate (as well as Château Ducru Beaucaillou), during our trip to St Julien appellation in 2019, absolute highlight (s) of our trip to the region. 

Clos du Marquis St Julien Bordeaux 2005

This second labels provides more affordable wine from the legendary and illustrious estate for ‘once a week’ drinking, as compared to the ‘once a month’, less often special occasion, one a year drinking for the prestigious grand vin. 

The name is named for the Petit Clos adjacent to the Château de Léoville, residence of the Marquis de Las Cases. The wine was created at the beginning of the 20th century when the vineyard was planted. Since then, Clos du Marquis has become a historical brand of Domaines Delon, sourced from the separate vineyard adjacent to the grand vin Leoville Las Cases since being first released in 1902.

Leoville Las Cases vineyard adjacent Chateaux
Latour and Pichon Lalande, Baron, Poyferre.

The Clos du Marquis is produced from top terroirs of the Saint-Julien Appellation that were not exclusively part of the old Domaine de Léoville cadastre. These terroirs are located slightly to the west and are surrounded by prestigious Classified Growths, particularly Seconds Crus Classés of Saint-Julien and Pauillac: Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Pichon Longueville Baron. 

Notably, the Leoville Las Cases estate straddles the small creek that is the border between St Julien and Paulliac, and the legendary first growth Chateau Latour (shown above right). 

Clos du Marquis offers a representation of the finest Saint-Julien character for a fraction of the price of the higher classified growth labels showing structure, complexity, harmony, distinction and ageing potential.

Typical of the appellation, this release is a blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%, Merlot, 37%, Cabernet Franc, 12%, and Petit Verdot, 1%.

This release was rated 94/100 by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 by Wine Spectator, 92 by Decanter, and 91 by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

In 2024, Jeb Dunnuck wrote “It’s a beautiful, classic expression of the estate that will evolve for another two decades.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round, concentrated, structured but polished and balanced, blackberry and black currant and some red fruits with notes of tobacco, dark mocha, graphite. licorice with polished, integrated tannins on a long smooth finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224133

https://www.domaines-delon.com/en/clos_du_marquis-chateau_clos_du_marquis_vins.html 

Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak

Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak 

Linda prepared grilled filets of beef with sautéed spinach and baked potatoes. I pulled from the cellar for one of my favorite food and wine pairings.

There is great value in this second/third tier Cru Bourgeois from Château Sociando-Mallet located in the commune of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne in the Haut-Médoc on the Left Bank of Bordeaux overlooking the Gironde river Estuary.

We drove through the area of the estate, sitting just off the Gironde River, just to the north of the village of  St-Estèphe, near highly acclaimed Château Montrose during our visit to the Medoc in 2019. 

The vineyards are planted with the designated Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Petit Verdot (5%).  The wines are matured in oak barriques (70-90% new) for 12-15 months. They are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“These are weighty, firm and well-structured clarets that are typically rich in fruit and have excellent ageing potential, said producer Jean Gautreau: "I have a superb terroir which I want to express in the wine. I try to make a classic Médoc for long keeping."

Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux 2005

Sociando-Mallet has been managed by Jean Gautreau and his family since 1969. Born in 1927, Jean Gautreau created his own négociant firm in 1957 serving customers in Belgium and the Netherlands.

Jean Gautreau discovered Sociando-Mallet in the village of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne in 1969 when looking for a wine estate to buy on behalf of a Belgian client but acquired it for himself for 250,000 French francs. 

There were only 5 hectares of vines at the time. Jean Gautreau expanded the vineyard year after year by buying vines from his neighbours. He renovated the estate’s buildings, built a barrel cellar, and gradually improved the choice of grape varieties, matching the appropriate ones to each vineyard plot.

Today, the property is comprised of 83 hectares producing nearly 450,000 bottles a year of Château Sociando-Mallet and the second wine, Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet. Jean Gautreau sold his négociant business in 2000 to focuse solely on producing wines. 

Château Sociando-Mallet dates back to 1633. Owner Guillaume de Brochon was arrested during the French Revolution in 1793 and the estate was impounded and sold at auction to his father-in-law, Jean Lamothe.

In 1831, Marie-Elisabeth Alaret, Lamothe's niece and owner of Sociando, married Achille Mallet, adding his name to the estate, the château was thereafter known as Sociando-Mallet.

The Alaret family sold the property in 1878 to Léon Simon. Between then and the arrival of Jean Gautreau, the château belonged to the wine merchant firm of Delor, Louis Roullet (Mayor of Saint-Seurin), and then Emile Tereygeol, who also owned Pontoise-Cabarrus at that time.

Jean Gautreau passed in 2019, leaving the property to his daughter Sylvie who had been managing since 2015, and has continued following in her father’s footsteps.

This aged vintage Bordeaux is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. 

This was a perfect pairing for our dinner, the complexity of the wine complementing the beef, and is balanced by the blend, the forward structured Cabernet Sauvignon moderated by the softer more approachable Merlot, and accented by highlights of the spice and sprites of the Cabernet Franc.

I often say, the French have been perfecting these blends for five hundred years, while we Americans for fifty years, and are now just beginning to appreciate the wisdom and experience of the French! 

At twenty years of age, this is in its ‘Goldilock’s zone’, old enough to be fully integrated to reveal its complexity, to my preference, but still young enough to show the full expression of its fruits, which Linda likes. The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition. This is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and may age for another five or ten years before starting to diminish.
The 2005 vintage was considered by some as one of the top ten Bordeaux vintages in history sitting alongside 1961, 1982, 1990 & 2009.

Jeb Dunnuck wrote in 2024,  “This killer bottle of wine has another 2-3 decades of overall longevity. You should buy it if you see it and count yourself lucky if you have bottles in the cellar.”

 

This release was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, 93 points by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, smooth, polished and balanced black berry and black currant fruits are accented by notes of earth, herbs, tobacco, cedar and subtle floral and a hint of truffle with chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?224168

https://www.sociandomallet.com/en