Family dinner features latest Bordeaux Releases, limited production No-Cal labels

Family celebration gathering features latest Bordeaux Releases and some limited production No-Cal labels 

The family gathered at Alec and Vivianna’s after the Church Dedication Service for daughter/grand-daughter Millie. 

They served beef tenderloin, salmon, mixed green salad and wide assortment of artisan cheeses, chips and dips and snacks. My absolute favorite, which was a perfect pairing with the vibrant Bordeaux, besides the tenderloin, was an authentic aged English Stilton cheese! 

I took for the occasion two labels of the recently released 2022 vintage Bordeaux, just acquired as part of an assorted mix case, following the UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Chicago tasting this week. 

Selection of mixed case 2022 release Bordeaux

I tasted several of the new vintage release wines reported on the spectacular outcomes and was eager to try and share some of the new labels with son’s and fellow collectors. 

The first label I chose to share was WOTN by one of the top merchant’s representatives from the results published and distributed to patrons last week - Domaine Chevalier. Its also a label with which we have much affinity and history.

The other label was one I found to provide leading QPR - Quality Price Ratio, based on the highest rating from CT’ers and the affordable price-point - Chateau Tronquoy. 

In addition to these two labels, Alec opened a unique, interesting red blend from Sonoma County, from a large format magnum - Tesoro Red Blend. 

The other label Alec shared was another unique limited production Red Blend from Napa Valley Howell Mountain - Trio from Bravante Vineyards.

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan 2022 

We’ve been collecting this wine for several decades going back to the eighties. We’ve met producer Olivier Bernard at many UGCB and other tasting events over the last two decades. 

A highlight of our meetings with Bernard was attending a special Darioush - Domain Chevalier wine dinner at Everest in Chicago. The gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago back in the summer of 2004 was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, celebrating their collaboration. Chef Joho prepared a special dinner featuring and complementing their wines poured by Darioush winemaker Steve McDevitt.

I chose this label also because it represents two generations of wine production and collecting - with next generation Hugo Bernard of Domaine Chevalier, and our son Ryan. We first met Hugo when Ryan joined me for the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago back in 2015. In addition to Ryan and me attending together, that year marked the rare attendance by both Bernard and son Hugo, as part of partially passing the baton to the next generation. 

With Bernard at UGCB in 2015

Last week, Hugo was pouring tonight’s wine at this year’s event - UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Comes to Chicago.

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Also, this is a one-of special release featuring a new, one-of special label celebrating Olivier Bernard's 40th year at the château and his 40th vintage. Hugo explained it shows a painting of a gallant horse that hangs in a gallery in Paris, representing Chevalier, which translated means knight, horseman or ‘gallant gentleman’.

As Olivier says about the estate, “Domaine de Chevalier is located in a clearing in the middle of a forest that protects the vines from extremes of temperature. In fact Chevalier is a sort of secret garden, far from the limelight. This is something of a paradox for such an excellent wine, among the greatest in Bordeaux. 

Only a great terroir can produce a great wine... I often start out with these words when speaking about Domaine de Chevalier. They convey our fundamental philosophy, not only with regard to viticulture, but also the spirit that pervades the estate and the men and women who work here. They improve their already considerable skills year after year on behalf of that which is most essential to a fine wine; in my opinion balance.”

This may represent the greatest vintage release of this label in decades, perhaps the best under the ‘reign’ of Bernard. 

This year’s extraordinary blockbuster release was awarded 98-99 points by James Suckling, 96-98 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 95-97 points by Vinous, 96 points by Joan Anson, 94-96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 95 points by Decanter.

While this amazing wine should reward aging for decades, it’s approachable and delicious today for early, instant gratification, which seems to be the case with many releases of this vintage. 

Serve this at proper temperature (eight to ten degrees below room temperature, and let it open and settle for an hour beforehand. 

This vintage release is a traditional left Bank Bordeaux blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Bright deep ruby purple colored, medium full bodied, structured, layered, concentrated, powerful and vibrant yet silky smooth, polished and approachable, rich ripe black and red berry fruits accented by brilliant aromatics, crème de cassis, truffle, graphite, smoke, tobacco, and damp earth, with silky mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4641915

https://www.domainedechevalier.com/en

Chateau Tronquoy St-Estèphe 2022 

Folks may know this by its historic traditional Tronquoy-Lalande name, this is the first vintage without the 'Lalande' part of the name.

Negociant Justerini and Brooks profiles the producer and estate. “The wine growing estate is one of the oldest in the Saint-Estèphe region, originally built for the Tronquoy family in the 18th century. It saw many owners until 1968 when it was bought by Jean and Arlette Textier and run for 40 years.”

“Martin and Olivier Bouygues purchased the property in 2006 with a vision to bring it into the modern era. They started a large-scale renovation including the construction of a great barrel hall and a new vat house. Today, the estate has become the latest success story to emanate from Saint-Estèphe.”

This St Estephe property is owned by the Bouygues family and run by the team at Montrose. 

Located in the heart of the Saint-Estèphe appellation, just south of the village, Château Tronquoy has a vineyard spanning 74 acres. 

We drove through the village and the surrounding estates and vineyards during our tour of the area during our visit in 2019.

This release was rated 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93-95 by Neal Martin of Vinous, 93 points by Jane Anson of Inside Bordeaux,  92-93 points by James Suckling, Wine Advocate gave it 89-91 points, but a blockbuster 95+ by Cellartrackers who typically are more moderate than the pundits in their assessment. 

Neal Martin of Vinous wrote, “This is an outstanding Saint-Estèphe determined not to lie in the shadow of its sibling Montrose. One of the spiciest Tronquoy-Lalandes for some time, with a peacock's tail on the finish.” 

This is classic example where ‘all boats rise with the tide’, as more moderately priced labels get high marks and the difference between premium grand vin and second labels shrinks, resulting in a high QPR - Quality Price Ratio. A blockbuster wine for serious every day sipping. 

One pundit wrote “Some wines are for that special occasion, but Tronquoy 2022 is your new everyday friend.” Another wrote, “The 2022 Tronquoy is a gorgeous wine, one of the best in recent memory.” 

This release is a traditional Left Bank Bordeaux blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon (usually the blend is mainly Merlot), 35% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot.

The 2022 Tronquoy-Lalande comes in a new bottle design with a wax capsule. 

Dark garnet purple colored, full bodied, firm structured,, intense, concentrated, complex yet balanced and approachable, super ripe blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruits with spicy cinnamon, cassis, allspice, licorice, bitter dark chocolate and dried herbs on the well behaved fine tannin laced finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4626459

https://www.tronquoy-lalande.com/en/

More to follow … I write about the Bravante Vineyards Trio Howell Mtn Red in this follow on post, and  Muscardini Cellars Tesoro Proprietary Red Blend in this separate follow on post. 

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Muscardini Cellars Tesoro Proprietary Red Blend

Muscardini Cellars Tesoro (Treasure) Proprietary Red Blend 

At the gala Family dinner featuring latest Bordeaux Releases and limited production Northern-California labels, Alec served this unique big red blend from a large format magnum that he acquired from one of his on-line retail suppliers. 

This is produced by Muscardini Cellars of proprietor and winemaker Michael Muscardini. The Muscardini Cellars sits on the main Sonoma Highway that is the arterial route along the eastern spine of Sonoma Valley, across from notable Kenwood Cellars, just up the road from Kunde Winery and Vineyards, south of the Chateau St Jean Winery and Vineyards. We’ve visited all of those neighbors during visits to the area. 

Muscardini produces wine sourced from grower’s vineyards thoughout the region. He produces Old World Italian varietal based wines crafting Sangiovese, Barbera, Brunello-style vintages and Super Tuscan-style wines, His website pronounces, “Muscardini Cellars wine conjures up a la dolce vita celebration which reflects Michael’s indefatigable tasting and lifestyle research on his sojourns to Italy.”

It appears Muscardini only produces wines sourced from growers which whom he has forged relationships with since founding Muscardini Cellars more than fifteen years ago, sourcing some of the area’s finest fruit in pursuit of superb Italian blends and non-Italian varietals met with an Italian winemaking approach. As such, they don’t appear to own an estate vineyards of their own. I call such producers ‘vanity producers’ and have suggested these are not wines to collect over the long term, unless their vineyard grower contracts are secure over the term. Otherwise, the wines will not maintain a consistent terroir profile if the sources change from year to year. 

Muscardini produces a broad portfolio of red and white wines sourced from vineyards across Sonoma County as well as Redwood Valley up in Mendocino County, and down to the Carneros District in southern Napa Valley. 

Muscardini Cellars Tesoro (Treasure) Proprietary Red Blend 2019 

This Tesoro, which in Italian means ‘Treasure’ is a Proprietary Red Blend forged in an important legacy for Muscardini, whose grandfather made wine in Italy before emigrating to America in 1909. Fifteen years ago, Michael Muscardini first blended Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet grapes to create his signature Tesoro, an homage to his grandfather and his Italian heritage. Muscardini’s Tesoro became the winery’s flagship label, with numerous vintages receiving 90+ point ratings and “Best of Class” awards at various competitions. 

This Super-Tuscan style blend consists of 52% Sangiovese, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 22% Syrah. It is produced to honor Muscardini’s family heritage of drinking fine red wines in Italy, using the revered Italian varietal Sangiovese as the core grape in his proprietary red blend,

He blends in Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as a personalized touch and a California twist to the other half of the blend, two French grape varieties that perform extremely well in the rocky soils and warm climate conditions in Sonoma Valley. 

It’s difficult to determine the source of the fruit in this blend since it is not specified in the wine descriptions. 

Researching and parsing the numerous 2019 vintage releases, Muscardini sources 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon from BWise Estate and Madrone Ridge, both in the Moon Mountain District in Sonoma, and the Rancho Salina Vineyard, a hillside grape growing estate in the rocky, high-elevation, also in the Moon Mountain District above Sonoma Valley. He also sourced 2019 Cabernet from Cassata is a small, family-owned estate, on the eastern bench of Sonoma Valley right next to Ridge Vineyards' historic Pagani Ranch, just outside the town of Glen Ellen.

Muscardini sources 2019 vintage release Sangiovese from several sites across Sonoma Valley including Alice Vineyards, the Santo Giordano Vineyards, located on the southeastern edge of Sonoma Valley in the Carneros appellation, the Pauli Ranch Vineyards in Redwood Valley up in Mendocino County. 

Syrah for 2019 vintage release is found sourced from the Vadasz Vineyards in the heart of Sonoma Valley and with fruit from the Rancho Salina Vineyard in the rocky, high-elevation Moon Mountain District above Sonoma Valley

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With the range of varietals and wide range of potential vineyard sources, it might explain the flavor profile of this wine - lacking focus or definition, rather, showing a cacophony of flavors, lacking integration, balance one might find in a more polished elegant representation. This may also explain why Wine Enthusiast refers to the blend as a California designation - as opposed to Napa, or Sonoma, or Mendocino - it’s composed from all of those. 

Winemakers Tasting Notes - - “Led by its striking dark crimson hue, this Super Tuscan style wine opens with aromas of ripe berries and black fruits, interwoven with hints of vanilla, caramel, raw tobacco, leather, clove, blood orange peel, and roasted walnuts. On the palate, the rich and generous flavors of briary blackberry, dark cherry, ripe plum, cassis, and red pear are enhanced with nuances of wild sage, cinnamon, black pepper, dark chocolate, and a kiss of fine oak. As the wine opens in the glass, the smooth velvety texture is balanced with bright acidity, supple tannins, and firm structure. The result is a stylish proprietary blend that is robust, elegant, and showy in its youth, and strengthened by layers of complexity, natural richness, and backbone that will allow the personality of the wine to expand in the cellar.”

Wine Enthusiast rated this release 89 points. Muscardini 2019 Tesoro Red Blend (California). They conclude their review with,  “Subtle toast and baking spice notes keep it interesting from the aroma through the finish.”

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firmly structured ripe black berry and black currant fruits accented with notes of baking spices, black tea, pain grille, tobacco leaf and leather with moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4243697

https://www.muscardinicellars.com/

Bravante Vineyards Trio Howell Mtn Red

 Bravante Vineyards Trio Napa Valley Howell Mountain Red Blend 2018

During the gala family celebration gathering and dinner, featured in this blogspot - Family dinner features latest Bordeaux Releases, limited production No-Cal labels, Alec served this premium Napa Howell Red Blend that he acquired from one of his on-line sources. 

According to the producer’s website Bravante Vineyards is a family owned and operated small production winery dating back to its founding in 1996 by George & Nancy Bravante. They produce small-batch estate sourced wines comprised of Bordeaux varietals, striving to showcase the unique terroir of their estate, high up the front (west side face) of Howell Mountain that produces “full-bodied yet balanced Bordeaux- style” wines.

The estate and vineyards sit on Howell Mountain, one of Napa’s oldest and most prestigious growing regions. Located from 1,400 – 2300 ft above the town of St. Helena, the mountain has incredibly unique geographic characteristics that make its wineries so famous. Some of its key characteristics including sitting above the fog (which reaches up from the valley floor to about 1200 feet. That is the demarcation point between the Napa Valley appellation below, and the Howell Mountain appellation above. 

Beginning at 1,400 feet in elevation and rising to 2,300 feet above sea level, Howell Mountain vineyards sit above the fog line receiving abundant sunshine with warm days and cool nights in the summer allow for the slow maturation of fruit in the vineyard. The growing season allows the fruit to develop complex flavors and structured tannins for which Howell Mountain is famous.

The well-draining soils of volcanic ash and gravelly loam work in conjunction with the unique climate of Howell Mountain to produce structured wines with great aging potential.

On the 20 acres estate of undeveloped land on Howell Mountain, they planted the Bravante Estate Stone Ridge Vineyard in early 1998 with Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 

The Stone Ridge Vineyard is a 20-acre parcel, and is the site of the winery and caves, sitting roughly 1,680 feet above sea level on a volcanic bench cut by nature. There, seven acres are planted in four blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon, two blocks of Cabernet Franc and one block of Merlot. The deep and rocky soils produce clusters of small berries and wines that are deeply intense with complex flavors.

They acquired another small vineyard down the road and slightly up the mountain in 2000. There they planted the Black Oak Vineyard on a rocky hillside to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Malbec, and Sauvignon Blanc. The unique character of this site adds intense minerality and complexity to the wines.

After making wine off-site for a few years, continually nurturing the vines and fine tuning and improving their wines, they set out to build their own estate winery in 2005. By the 2009 harvest, they completed construction and permitting and gained the coveted status of being 100% estate grown, produced and bottled.

They strive to produce “quality over quantity”, applying the best vineyard practices, growing wine grapes with minimal intervention, seeking to express the best qualities of the unique terroir of Howell Mountain. They also practice minimal intervention in their winemaking and in the cellar, where they age the wines two years in the barrel and additional time in bottle.

Bravante’s winemaker is Taylor Shoptaw. Originally from Memphis, Tennessee, he studied viticulture and enology in New Zealand,  spending past nine years traveling between hemispheres working for notable winemakers. He then worked as an assistant winemaker in the Finger Lakes AVA, and production supervisor in the Alexander Valley. 

Taylor is advised by Phillip Corallo-Titus, Consulting Winemaker. As the winemaker for Pritchard Hill’s iconic Chappellet Vineyard for over 30 years, Phillip established renown as a master at crafting mountain wines and has become known as one of Napa’s best winemakers. Drawn to the Bravante Vineyard’s unique Howell Mountain terroir, he started consulting for Bravante in 2017.

This Bravante TRIO 2018 is a blend of 100% Estate grown Howell Mountain Bordeaux varietals, although the actual composition is not specified or published. It is bottled in a premium oversized overweighted painted glass bottle. 

They refer to their ‘Bordeaux-Style’ wines which is a bit in-precise or non-specific given there are no less than fifty-seven Bordeaux appellations, (as compared with seventeen in Napa) each with a distinctive style based on different designated blends.

Seven hundred and ten cases were produced. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied with black currant and black berry fruits with Howell Mountain signature spice and dusty graphite and subdued tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3815285

https://www.bravantevineyards.com/

Fontanafredda Barolo with Meatloaf at Entourage DG

Fontanafredda Barolo with Meatloaf at Entourage Downers Grove 

I was invited to a celebratory lunch with Linda and her sorority sister Pat. They were planning to go to Gia Mia in downtown Downers Grove. I suggested an ‘upgrade’ to Entourage just across the street and railroad tracks. 

We’ve featured both restaurants in these pages, most notably our Pour Boys Wine Group dinner at Entourage last fall. This is the same restaurant group that has a sister restaurant in Naperville, also featured in these pages in  Plumpjack Reserve Napa Chardonnay at Entourage Restaurant Naperville.

At our earlier dinner in Downers Grove, I saw and was drawn to their signature Waygu Meatloaf dish, and pledged to try it on my next visit. 

This signature entree was amazing! So good we ordered a second one for carry out to take home. 

Wagyu Meatloaf Sundae - Truffle + Parmesan Whipped Potatoes, Brioche, Wild Mushroom Gravy,  Vegetable Succotash topped with Crispy Onions.

This was delicious and huge in portions - enough for a follow on take home meal. Two huge slices of meatloaf, and not enough of the delectable pomme puree’! But where would you put it in that tower, or what they call a ‘Sundae’!

Linda had the Spicy Shrimp & Jalapeno Grits - Blackened Wild Shrimp, Andouille Sausage, Charred Jalapeno, Charred Corn, Baby Peppers and Creole Cream.

This was equally delicious, but too spicy for my tastes, okay for hers, although she set aside the Jalapeno’s. Nice portion size for a ‘small plate’.

Pat had the Jumbo Lump Maryland Crab Cake - Corn Relish, Smoked Pepper Butter Sauce, Basil Oil and Micro Greens.

Pat loved the Crab Cake but would’ve been better with a larger portion for an entree. 

For a wine accompaniment I selected from the carefully crafted wine list a moderate Italian Red. 

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2019

I chose this, partly to compare with the Massolino Serralunga d’Alba Barolo we tasted at the producer winemakers dinner we attended at the Wine Bar in Destin, FL just last week. Also, I thought the Nebbiolo would go well with my meatloaf entree. 

Also, Fontanafredda is a producer we know reasonably well from numerous previous wine tastings, several of which are chronicled in these previous posts:

Italian Village Wine and Dine features Barolo trio

Theos steak dinner Lazzarito Barolo Moulin-Tacussel CDP BYOB

Eataly NYC Wine and Cheese Dining

OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Bordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Barolo means wine made primarily from the Nebbiolo grape, the principle varietal of the region. (As I’ve written often in these pages, wines from the ‘old world’ are named or labeled for their region. This is as opposed to wines in the ‘new world’ are named or labeled for the grape varietal in the bottle (typically 70% or more)). 

The Barolo wine regions consists of five townships: La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village itself, as well as a few outlying villages. 

The native Nebbiolo grape produces wines, with the signature “tar and roses” aromas, a light garnet color and full flavorful palate with prominent tannins and acidity. A well-made Barolo wine, will be complex with notes of strawberry, cherry, plum, leather, truffle, anise, fresh and dried herbs, tobacco and violets.

The Fontanafredda Estate & Winery, dates back to 1878. Located in the heart of Piedmont’s Langhe region, they produce benchmark Barolo and Barbera wines, showing that balance deep aromas and concentration of fruit with elegance.

Fontanafredda has a noble history, purchased by modern Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II in 1858 after the unification of the country. The estate produced wine from Piedmont’s Langhe region native varietals, Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo. 

The King’s son, Count Mirafiori Fontanafredda later developed a commercial business and released their first Nebbiolo labeled as Barolo with the 1878 vintage.

The 250 acre Fontanafredda Barolo cru property is located in the subregion of Serralunga d’Alba, and is the largest contiguous wine estate in the Langhe. The estate also owns additional properties in the communes of Barolo and Diano d’Alba bringing the total acreage of estate-owned land to 305. 

There are two main soil types in Barolo, Tortonian in the western region that is heavy in clay and magnesium deposits and produces wines that tend to be more fragrant, elegant and soft. In eastern Barolo, the soils are chalky limestone and mineral rich that produce wines of deeper color, body and tannic structure, making for long-lived wines.

Fontanafredda owners Oscar Farinetti and business partner Luca Baffigo Filangieri are also founders of the famous EATALY concept restaurants and stores in Italy, Japan, New York and Chicago. We have visited and featured Eataly New York and Eataly Chicago in these pages in several posts including - 

Eataly New York Wine Dine Options

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner

Eataly NYC Wine and Cheese Dining

Lunch at Eataly during Gala Wedding Weekend Chicago

We love these wondrous creative locations where they promote “ The world's largest Italian marketplace where you can eat, shop, and learn”,  and consider them destinations worth visiting, an adventure in dining, shopping, or just for an adventurous travel experience! 

Since 1999, the Fontanafredda wine estate production has been managed by winemaker Danilo Drocco and viticulturist Alberto Grasso.

As I poured a glass of this wine, it was dark garnet colored, but largely opaque, moderate structured and light medium bodied. Linda immediately noticed and expressed concern in this selection. In the end, it proved to be ideal - big enough for the meatloaf, and moderate enough to complement the Crab Cake, and in-between so as to go with the spicy shrimp. 

Upon serving, this was at room temperature. We requested a wine chiller which they promptly provided, and after some cooling, was much better, more suited to the meal, and being more approachable, better revealing its aromas and flavors. 

My initial expectation was seeking the wine as I later found to be described in the Winemaker Notes -“Serralunga Barolo is characterized by great structure and power. Dry and tannic, but with velvety texture and great balance. It has notes of vanilla, spices, withered roses and underbrush. balance. The finish is very long-lasting.” 

It turned out to be in line with as described in Wine Spectator’s description -

“This red rides a fine balance between elegance and austerity, with cherry, strawberry, rose and hay aromas and flavors fused to a spine of stiff tannins; nevertheless, this is long and engaging.”

This was rated  93 points by Wine Spectator, 91 by Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling. 

7,400 cases produced, of which 5,100 cases imported - so this should be available if one seeks it out.

Dark garnet rather opaque colored, medium bodied but rather tightly structured with refined moderate tannins, yet smooth and balanced thereby approachable, black cherry and tangy red fruits with notes of black tea, and subtle notes of pepper, coriander, dried rose and crushed stone on a clean and crisp finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4626032

https://www.fontanafredda.it/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Chateau La Nerthe Les Granieres with Pizza

Chateau La Nerthe Les Granieres with Pizza 

We were called to babysitting duty for Alec & Vivianna for a special event night out in the city. As has become somewhat customary, they ordered in pizza and pasta from their local neighborhood pizza house. I brought from the home cellar a big red ‘pizza wine’.

This Chateau La Nerthe Les Granieres is from a producer we visited together during our Southern Rhône wine experience featured in this blogpost  A visit to Château La Nerthe. 

I’ve discussed earlier vintages of this wine in this post, Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2013, excerpted below. 

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2019

This Les Granières de La Nerthe is the “second” wine of Château La Nerthe, made from younger vines from the Estate. 

This is a Rhone style blend of the designated sanctioned varietals: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre (often referred to as ‘GSM’ in other regions), Cinsault, and several others. This particular vintage release is a blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, 10% Mourvedre.

While these are the typical primary varietals of a CDP, it should be noted that the Châteauneuf-du-Papeappellation rules allow for up to thirteen specified varietals to be included in the blend. Their second label is aged for a shorter period of just 6 months in a combination of cement vats and larger oak foudre that results in a more fruit forward style of Châteauneuf.

I note that I visited the historic Château La Nerthe (right) during my Châteauneuf-du-Pape tour back in 1998, so I follow and collect this producer's wine.

Château La Nerthe have been producing wines at the Estate since 1560. The label seemed to disappear from our market for a couple years several years ago, and I was happy to see it reappear on the shelves at Binny's, our local wine merchant. 

That said, for a while, their premier label Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes is now at a new price point at $100 per bottle, significantly higher than what I would consider to be comparable benchmark wines such as Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape or Chateau Vieux Telegraph. I should note it was reduced to a sale price to be more comparable to those other labels. I purchased some at the lower price which has since normalized back to its customary price point. 

At about half the price of the gran vin, however, Les Granières de La Nerthe does offer CDP at a more affordable QPR (quality price ratio). These are two other Estates that I visited during this trip that I also collect for our cellar. Interestingly, the 2015 Beaucastel contains all thirteen of the CDP grape varietals. 

When I first discovered this second label of La Nerthe in our market back in 2013, I admit I was a bit disappointed by it, perhaps due to my lofty expectations, or hopes. 

I’m glad to see this later release was much better, more in line with what might expect from a similarly situated wine. 

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2019

When I first discovered this second label of La Nerthe in our market back in 2013, I admit I was a bit disappointed by it, perhaps due to my lofty expectations, or hopes. 

I’m glad to see this later release was much better, more in line with what might expect from a similarly situated wine. 

Winemaker Notes - “The aromas of cherry and blackcurrant are balanced by sweet spices including cinnamon. The elegant cherry continues on the palate, supported by fine tannins and a long, refreshing finish.”

This release was rated 91 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Decanter. 

This was a perfect accompaniment to the hearty pizza and pasta. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black currant, raspberry and blackberry fruits with notes of anise, herbs, sweet spices, hints of pepper and tobacco with tangy acidity on a long lingering modest tannin laced finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4151936

http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/

UGCB 2022 Vintage Release Tour 2025 Comes to Chicago

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2022 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2025  

Once again, the UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2022 vintage release wines. This was the same event we attended and featured last year in these pages in this post - UGCB 2021 Vintage Release Tour 2024 Comes to Chicago, excerpted below.. 

The Union is the association of 132 members of the top premier wine producer estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. In cooperation with distributors, brokers and merchants they host over 80 events in fifteen countries visiting 65 cities to present their wines to some 50,000 or so professionals and wine lovers each year around the world.

Their events go beyond France, taking them throughout Europe (Germany, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Netherlands, Russia), to this tour of North America (US and Canada) , and to Asia (China, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore). 

This year's UGCB US TOUR - 2025 started in Miami at The Hangar, then to the fabulous Cipriani on 42nd Street in New York, prior to coming to The Drake Hotel in Chicago, then heading on to San Francisco City View @ Metreon, and finishing at Vibiana in Los Angeles. Previous years have also included stops in Toronto and/or  Montréal.

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with 
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau, from 2020.

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped conduct the event in Chicago, one of the highlight of my wine exploits throughout the year.

As in years past, except the Covid disrupted alternate site two years ago, at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, the gala event was held in the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below).

The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the host organizers Mike Wangbickler, Kat Stark and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team.

According to the routine, we help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines.

We start early in the day unpacking and preparing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.  

Often over the years, some producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence, we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'. This was our sixteenth year working this gala annual event.

Pour Boys Rick and Lyle

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives, offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers, ambassadors and commercial directors.

As always, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their representatives coming to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and hearing their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their vintage release, their history, businesses, and their past vintages and of course, the current release.

As collectors and holders of not-insignificant collections of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines.

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.

Despite the extreme inclement weather this day in Chicago, this years event was well attended to a full house.

After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we’re able to partake of the release tasting.

The 2022 vintage is a blockbuster, possibly the best in a decade, on par with the recent stellar 2009 and likely to be heralded with legendary vintages such as 1982 and others.

The 2022 year was one of the hottest and driest growing seasons in the history of the region. The early heat in the spring set up the vines for the brutally hot and dry summer growing season, which also included some critical rains in June and a few storms in August. Producers learned from the continuous hot and dry vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020 how to moderate or cope with the intense sun, such as leaving fuller canopies of leaves to shade grapes. 

Despite the rather extreme weather conditions, the vintage produced dark dense fruit resulting in opulent and structured wines, beautifully balanced, smooth, supple, polished and elegant, bursting with fresh ripe fruit flavors that were approachable, even when young, upon release. 

It was reported that all the Bordeaux varietal grapes — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, faired well. Berries were small, skins were healthy and the juice was concentrated. While acidities are on the lower side, the wines show remarkable freshness and purity, aromatics are right and vibrant and textures are smooth and polished. 

As is the case as I have written before, in such great vintages, ‘all boats rise with the tide”, so that there should be many stunning wines available, even at the more modest price points as the gap between grand vin and second wines may be narrower in 2022

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region. 

Highlights of wines that stood out were the usual suspects from my perennial favorites - Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages, then Pichon Lalande, in Paulliac, in order of more structured and concentrated to less so. 

Pauline Gibert Pichon Baron

In St Julien, Gruaud Larose, then Leoville Barton followed by Leoville Poyferre, and finally Beychevelle, which showed particularly well with extraordinary bouquet and polished ripe fruit. 

As is customary, the Barton wines were represented by Managing Director Lilian Barton Sartorius who represents the 9th generation of the Barton family. These days the property is managed by Lilian assisted by her husband, Michel Sartorius, and their grown children, Damien and Melanie, of the 10th generation, who are taking on increasing responsibility in the business. Here she is shown with Sara Lecompte-Cuvelier of Leoville Poyferre.

The Branaire Ducru was the finest I’ve ever experienced in memory, perhaps reflecting, in addition to the vintage, this being the first vintage produced in the completely renovated production facilities, with double the number of vats, with which to be more discriminating and granularly focused in the production and ultimate blending.  

Francois-Xavier-Maroteaux
Owner Château Branaire-Ducru

Pomerol showed well with Clinet being a standout. I regret I didn’t get to taste two favorites, Chateaux Canon and Canon-Le-Gaffeliere, as they were gone by the time I got  to their table, late in the day. 

The ever dapper Stephan von Neipperg,
(Château Canon-La-Gaffelière) 

Domaine Chevalier showed well from Pessac-Leognan, presenting a new label/branding for the historic anniversary vintage.

Hugo Bernard - Domaine Chevalier

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. 

Most recently .. 

UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago 

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