Cherry Circle Room dinner features super wine flight of ultra-premium Dominus, Kongsgaard and Darioush Napa Valley wines
We spent a getaway weekend in the City (Chicago) and dined at the Cherry Circle Room in the old Chicago Athletic Club on Michigan Avenue in Chicago, opposite Millenium Park and the popular Cloudgate (Bean). I was there to scout the venue for some upcoming corporate events as well as for a superlative fine dining experience.
The iconic Cherry Circle Room was the members' dining room at the Chicago Athletic Association for generations. It has been totally restored and updated melding the building's historic original features
with modern design elements and was recognized as James Beard award-winning space for Outstanding Restaurant Design.
We dined with fellow 'Pour Boy' Dr Dan and our two Lindas. We both took BYOB from our cellars a bottle to share and compare with our dinner entrees.
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Wine flight: Darioush, Dominus Bordeaux Blends Kongsgaard Syrah
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Darioush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 We visited the magnificent Darioush estate in Napa with Dan and Linda during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017, (Dan's) Linda's first trip to the valley. Years earlier, in 2003, Linda and I visited the Darioush estate for a private barrel tasting, during the time the new winery was under construction.
http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/01/soaring-red-flight-silverado-solo.html
Darioush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
We were first introduced
to this wine by fellow 'Pour Boy', Bill and Beth when we were invited by them to a wine
dinner at their Cress Creek Country Club in the late nineties.
We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003. Their
fabulous winery and tasting facility on Silverado Trail in southern
Napa Valley was not yet open but was well under construction at that
time. Tonight's wine selection was from the case we purchased during that visit.
We attended with Dr Dan a gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Wine Dinner in Chicago. This was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of
Darioush Winery and Bernard Laborie of
Domaine de Chevalier at Everest restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004.
At twenty years of age, this big full throttle Napa Cabernet was
probably at its apex, not likely to improve any further with aging, and
nearing the end of its prime drinking window.
Tonight's tasting was consistent with the last time we tasted this label's vintage release in 2013 when I wrote back on 1/26/2013:
"This remains a blockbuster wine, living up to the tone set by the large oversize, almost magnum size bottle - dark inky color, full bodied, complex but smooth and polished, full forward black berry and
currant fruits with a layer of spicy cinnamon oak with tones of black tea, anise, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate - well balanced and polished with nicely integrated
silky smooth tannins on the lingering finish. RM 92 points."
This is a Bordeaux Blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=462550
http://www.darioush.com/
Dominus Napa Valley Proprietary Bordeaux Red 2009
Dan brought from his cellar vertical collection of this legendary Napa Valley super premium Bordeaux Blend label for our dinner. We've dueled with vintages of this label dating back to a case I bought on release of the 1986 vintage. We drank a bottle every couple of years until finally with only one or two bottles left, the bottle was finally emerging and opening to reveal its full potential and character after more than two decades. Such is this long lived ageworthy wine.
Collecting this label in those early years was fun with the artist series of pencil an water color drawings of producer winemaker Christian Mouiex which ended with the 1991 vintage turning to this basic label every since after close to a decade. My
label library of Dominus and those early art series labels can be found at this link location. This release was a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and the
remainding 4% Petit Verdot. This is estate bottled from fruit sourced from the Napanook estate to the west of Hwy 29, St Helena Highway in Yountville, Napa Valley.
This release was awarded 99 points
by
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 98 points
by
Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling.
Circle Cherry room Somellier Anika opened and decanted this bottle and we gave it time to blow off some initial heat and aggressiveness, which it did after about an hour.
Deep garnet colored, medium full bodied, well balanced, smooth, polished, concentrated yet elegant blackcurrant, black raspberry and ripe plum fruits with notes of floral, graphite, sweet mocha chocolate, hints of tobacco, vanilla and earth with finely grained silky soft tannins on a long finish.
RM 95 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1140345
https://www.dominusestate.com/
Circle Cherry room has a modest moderate published winelist. There is however, an extraordinary Reserve Wine List of the property's impressive collection that is not published. We were shown this list by Sommellier Anika, who has served at Chicago Spaggia restaurant. From that list we selected this classic Syrah.
Kongsgaard Hudson Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah 1999
This is from Fifth-generation Napa natives John and Maggy Kongsgaard who produce
powerful, graceful wines which are high intensity expressions of
vineyard and variety from a ten-acre vineyard they planted in the
late 1970s on a rocky hilltop in southern Napa Valley which has belonged
to the Kongsgaard family since the 1920s. In addition to these family
acres, they direct the farming under long-term contract on another seven
acres in Carneros, the Hudson Vineyard, where they grow Syrah and Chardonnay.
Kongsgaard wines are produced at their winery, high up on the
eastern rim of Napa Valley, in a cave drilled into the volcanic rock. These 97-99+ point wines are allocated and sell out quickly to the producer's mailing list
and are pursued by insatiable collectors in the auction aftermarket.
John was mentored by historic and legendary pioneers of
Napa Valley: André Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu
Vineyard and Nathan Fay—who farmed the Fay Vineyard made famous by
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ iconic single-vineyard Cabernet. After his first job in Sonoma, John took a job
at Newton, experimenting with Old World techniques and bottling Napa
Valley’s first unfiltered Chardonnay. In subsequent years, he worked with numerous world famous luminaries including Fritz Hatton, and
Michel Rolland, and trained Aaron Pott and Andy Erickson.
This label was first inroduced in 1995. It is sourced from a two-acre plot of Syrah at the Hudson Ranch in
Carneros—which was founded in 1981 by John’s Texas-born Davis classmate
Lee Hudson. The terroir consists of proximity equidistant between San Pablo Bay and Napa and Sonoma Valley, and is comprised of volcanic soil. The vineyard was planted to John’s
specifications.
This Syrah is ferment on native yeasts, aged for two
years in 40% new French oak, and bottled unfiltered resulting in a wine of complexity, depth, incredible power, and 'endless nuance'.
Wine Access writes of this label, "Very few Napa Valley wines are mentioned alongside Bordeaux First
Growths and the great collectible wines of the world—and they’re
basically all cult Cabernets.
Kongsgaard’s Syrah stands proudly alongside them, but also proudly
apart. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind bottling from a master whose name
evokes reverence and admiration from his peers. As a display of Napa
Valley glory worth cellaring for years or passing on as an heirloom, you
can’t do any better."
We drank this Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Ranch Syrah for my father-son birthday celebration dinner earlier this year.
We drank the Kongsgaard Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay at our
Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen back in June.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate call this “One of the Most Provocative” Syrahs in California
Winemaker and Robert Parker Wine Advocate notes for the 1999 Syrah Napa Valley:
The 1999 Syrah Hudson Vineyard is even better out of bottle than it was
from cask. Its opaque black/blue/purple color is followed by an
extraordinary perfume of barbecue spices intermixed with creosote,
violets, blackberry and creme de cassis liqueur, explosive, full-bodied
flavors of cassis, and an amazingly thick, juicy yet vibrant and
well-defined personality. There is plenty of tannin, but the wealth of
fruit and intensity is mind-boggling. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.
Kongsgaard is crop-thinning down to one grape cluster per shoot in an
effort to obtain Syrah at its most intense. There are 125 cases of the
1999 Syrah Hudson Vineyard. The wine is 100% Syrah fermented and aged in
wood for 18 months, and then bottled without fining or filtration. The
result is one of California’s most awesome as well as singular
expressions of Syrah. 95 points
Inky purple-black in color, full bodied, dense concentrated muscular yet smooth and elegant, ripe
blackberry and black cherry fruits with note of violet floral, cassis, black pepper, toast, allspice, bacon
fat and herbs with elegant, plush tannins and on an incredibly long pleasant spicy finish.
Still holding on at 22 year, likely at the end of its prime drinking window and not to improve with further aging.
RM 93 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=24584
https://kongsgaardwine.com/
Links mentioned in this blogpost:
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=462550
http://www.darioush.com/
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1140345
https://www.dominusestate.com/
https://mcnees.org/winesite/labels/label_library_pages/california_label_lib_pages/label_library_california_d-e.htm#Dominus_Estate
https://www.lsdatcaa.com/cherry-circle-room
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_03/napa_03.htm
https://mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_03/napa_03.htm
http://www.mcnees.org/dinesite/Dinesites/DineSite_Everest.htm
https://twitter.com/cherrycircleCAA