Piedlong CDP foie gras Il Fiore Langham NY

Piedlong CDP and Auxey-Duresses with Foie Gras small plates at Il Fiore Langham Hotel NYC

Langham Hotel Lobby Desk

During our NYC getaway weekend, before dinner, we stopped in the Michelin star Il Fiore restaurant bar in the tony Langham Hotel in NYC.

We were seeking small plates and some wine from their extraordinary selection for a casual setting. Not often does one have the choice of Phelps Insignia, Tignanello, Sea Smoke, Quilceda Creek, Cos d' Estournal and Vieux Telegraph BTG (By-The-Glass)!

I selected the Torchon Foie Gras with tart cherries and winter squash (shown below) which was perfect for the occasion and was spectacular with Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong.

Linda had the crispy grilled artichokes with parmesan and lemon aoli, with a Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Burgundy Pinot Noir which was not on the winelist and was substituted for our initial selection.

Il Fiore offers a elegant but casual comfortable setting for a delightful food and wine experience, albeit rather expensive, but in-line with New York prices and such quality premium offerings. We look forward to returning for dinner there during a future trip.



Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2013 

The BTG winelist (shown below) specifically said 'La Crau', which refers to the flagship CDP offering from this Domaine, but this label was served instead.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for six generations, since 1891. The estate’s vineyards sit on the Plateau of La Crau, the highest point, in the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Back in the 1800's , Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built a signal tower on the property due to its high elevation in the region, hence the property was given the name “Vieux Télégraphe”.

This Piedlong label was first released in 2011. It comes from a 29 acre vineyard site from the stony soils on the Piedlong plateau in the heart of the appellation, north of the village, the highest point in the region. The Mourvèdre, comes from the Pignan lieu-dit, just to the east of Piedlong. We visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998 and then again this year during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Alain Brunier at the Estate.

This label is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black currant and black raspberry fruits, notes of spicy cinnamon, hints of dust, tangy cherry, tapenade and mushroom with a smooth soft peppery lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2880773

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en


Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Pinot Noir 2015

Il Fiore restaurant bar

Another substitution on the winelist, this label has a rouge and a blanc variant. We were looking for the blanc Chardonnay, but they served the rouge Pinot Noir instead.

Auxey-Duresses (pronounced “Oh-see”) is an appellation is in the famous Côte de Beaune area in the region of Burgundy, surrounded by two famous neighbors, Volnay and Meursault.

Readers of these pages know we don't do many Burgundies, mostly because we favor the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) over the Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Also, I'm not knowledgeable in all the myriad of appellations and producers from the region and find it a bit confusing and mystifying. This is much the case for many folks, for many regions, but its especially challenging for Burgundy with all the mini and micro producers and labels that typifies what this regions is known for.

My advice to folks is to focus on one region, gather knowledge and experiences as a baseline and for comparisons, especially if one is going to start collecting wines.

We selected this Benjamin Leroux Pinot Noir from the Auxey-Duresses appellation, an area noted for high QPR and excellent value.

This is the label of Benjamin Leroux, manager/winemaker of Domaine Comte Armand who launched this label with the 2007 vintage. Leroux's Auxey-Duresses are from fruit sourced from vineyards that he manages, vineyards he owns, and he also buys fruit (never juice or wine) from growers with whom he works closely so to meet his standards.

The vineyards lie below the village of Beaune, adjacent to the Meursault Villages Les Vireuils Dessus and Les Meix Chavaux. The land is north-facing so it is affected by the cold air rolling down from the Hautes-Côtes.

The wines here come from three terroirs in this cool, mineral (rocky) place - Les Hautés, La Macabrée and Les Boutonniers. The oldest vines date back to 1946, planted just after the war. The vineyards span 2 hectares, large for this area where many of the properties are tiny in comparison. Hence Auxey-Duresses is a primary wine for Leroux.

Leroux's Auxey-Duresses is produced in a new winery in the center of the village of Beaune (just off the Boulevard) that is also used by Dominique Lafon and two other wine growers. The operation is very small and specializes in Puligny and Volnay, but there are over twenty different labels produced, in this ‘micro negociant’ operation.

Like so many Burgundy operations that are small, even tiny, only two to five barrels are produced from many of the offerings, resulting in extraordinary fragmentation and granularity in the plethora of small production labels.

This Pinot Noir was somewhat opaque, light in color and body, with blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of leather, dusty rose and spice with smooth soft tannins on the finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2911060

Liparita Napa Cab 2014

Liparita Napa Cab 2014 Complements Grilled Steak Dinner

Traveling to our state capital on business, I stopped in the recently opened local Binny's store to select some wine for carry out dinner back at the hotel. I opted for this Napa Cabernet that at under $20 sale price promised high QPR (quality price ratio).

I've written earlier in these pages about the 'old' Liparita brand from the nineties. The actual original brand dates back to the historic beginnings of wine in America back in the 1880's when William Keyes, a geologist, settled in Napa Valley and discovered the Howell Mountain terroir with its volcanic soils which he felt would be ideal for wine. The soils reminded him of those on Lipari Island, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily, which became the inspiration for the name “Liparita.”

Like many other early wineries, Liparita succumbed to the restraints of Prohibition and the attacks of phylloxera on the early vine plantings. The Liparita brand resurfaced briefly during the nineties and then after waning was purchased was relaunched by Spencer Hoopes who purchased it in 2006.  Hoopes focuses on producing and remarketing Napa Valley appellation specific wines.

This revitalized Liparita label replicates the original early 1880's design, and that original intent to produce great cabernets from the various notable vineyard regions from across Napa Valley. “We are reawakening William Keyes’ dream for Liparita.” says Hoopes.

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm, tightly wound black berry fruits with notes of smoke, hints of black cherry, dark mocha, black pepper and black olive on a tangy finish. It was an ideal complement to my carry out New York strip steak and baked potato dinner.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2815557

UGC Bordeaux 2015 Release Tour unveils stellar vintage

UGC Bordeaux 2015 Release Tour unveils stellar vintage

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) annual release tour visited America to showcase their latest vintage release of their wines this week. Following stops in Toronto, Washington DC and Boston, they held their grand tastings at two spectacular elegant settings, Cipriani on 42nd in NYC and the Drake Hotel, Chicago. Once again, our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped host the event in Chicago at the Drake Hotel in the elegant grand ballroom (shown below).  Following the tasting, we attended a gala dinner at remarkable Schwa Restaurant.

Pour Boys, Rick, Lyle, Dan, Ernie

This was the seventh Bordeaux release event that wine buddies Dr Dan, Ernie and Lyle (shown right) accompanied me to assist the team at Balzac Communications to host the event, helping with set up, logistics and then standing in to pour wine for any featured producers that were not able to attend in person. Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. More than once, winter storms delayed or disrupted travel prohibiting some of the producers to get to Chicago for the event which started our standing in for them, hence we coined the name the 'Pour' Boys.

Cipriani on 42nd, NYC

Close to 100 producers, winemakers and their commercial representatives presented their wines on the tour which was attended by nearly 800 members of the trade and press. Following the trade event in the afternoon, each evening a public tasting was hosted by a leading local wine merchant.

The interest in and enthusiasm for the 2015 was apparent by the attendees as this promises to be the best release since 2010. Several producers compared this vintage to a combination of the best of 2005 and 2010. As the saying goes, 'all boats rise with the tide', a spectacular vintage such as this affects the wines from the high end to the secondary labels. This provides great opportunities for consumers as it promises quality wines at lower price points as well as in the ultra-premium more expensive levels. As with highly rated, highly anticipated vintages, prices are also higher accordingly.

Drake Hotel, Chicago

Following several more modest and a few lackluster vintages, 2015 promises great potential, and 2016 is expected to be even better!

The quality of the vintage shone through with high quality representations from appellations across the region from the left bank to the right bank. Unlike recent years which were more hit and miss, our representative collection of benchmark wines that we collect, all showed exceedingly well. There were a few lackluster labels and disappointments, but they were far fewer in number than recent years.

I found the Margaux, Pauillac and the Sauternes appellations to be especially impressive. Particular highlight standouts from the vintage that impressed me were Canon, Clinet, the Pichons (Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Pichon Baron), Lynch Bages, Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Lascombs, Giscours, and many of the Sauternes including Coutet, Lafaurie Peyraguay, Bastor Lamontagne and Suideraut. The St Juliens, normally one of my favorite appellations seemed generally more moderate and even keeled but lacking expressive standouts.

Some of the standouts were:

The 2015 Chateau Canon was the best in memory and I've collected and held this wine going back to the 1983 vintage. A blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc this presented a smooth polished structure, an intense bouquet with bright vibrant pure fruits black berry and raspberry fruits accented by notes of floral and mineral.

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac was as good as any I remember, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Carmenère, presented blackberry fruits, hints of raspberry and tones of tobacco leaf and hints of cedar.

The 2015 Clinet. a blend of 90% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc, was smooth, elegant and polished, presenting perfumed bouquet turning to black fruit, notes of menthol, creosote with silky smooth soft tannins.

With Chateau Canon

The 2015 Clos Fourtet, a blend of 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc presented full, bright floral bouquet with notes highlighting the black fruits turning to tones of cassis, dark mocha and menthol mint with a pure elegant polished structure.

The 2015 Suduiraut was intense, thick, unctuous with apricot nectar and notes of honey on a tongue puckering finish.

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier,, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot was also the best in memory since I first discovered this label in 1994, presenting a full bouquet smooth blackberry fruit and hints of pepper.

Margaux Reeder, Bastor-Lamontagne

The 2015 Giscours is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot showing bright vibrant black currant and black cherry fruits turning to notes of spice, menthol, cedar and smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.

The 2015 Pichon-Longueville Baron was complex concentrated with a firm structured backbone but was polished and smooth with hints of menthol, mint and firm but approachable tannins.

The 2015 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was as good as any I can remember, complex, firmly structured but a symphony of smooth polished well integrated flavors with the black fruits accented with refined notes of graphite, tobacco, leather and silky smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

Ryan and Rick w/ Pichon Baron

 The public tastings and host merchants were:

• Thu. 18 January Toronto - LCBO
  Washington - Calvert Woodley
• Fri. 19 January St John's - NLC (2013 & 2014 vintage)
  Boston - Gordon's Wines
• Sat. 20 January Montréal - SAQ
• Mon. 22 January New-York - Sotheby's
• Tue. 23 January Chicago - Binny's
• Wed. 24 January Denver - Applejack
• Thu. 25 January San Francisco - K&L
• Fri. 26 January Los Angeles - Wally's
   

Lois Vallette with special engraved
bottle packaging of Lafaurie-Peyraguay

 http://www.cipriani.com/events/?loc=ny-42nd-street

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2013

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2013

This Les Granières de La Nerthe is the “second” wine of Château La Nerthe, made from younger vines from the Estate. This is a Rhone style blend in the following proportions:  45% Grenache, 24% Syrah, 18% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, and the balance of 5% from “others”. While these are the typical primary varietals of a CDP, it should be noted that the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation rules allow for up to thirteen specified varietals to be included in the blend. Their second label is aged for a shorter period of just 6 months in a combination of cement vats and larger oak foudre that results in a more fruit forward style of Châteauneuf.

I note that I visited the historic Château La Nerthe (right) during my Châteauneuf-du-Pape tour back in 1998, so I follow and collect this producer's wine. Château La Nerthe have been producing wines at the Estate since 1560. The label seemed to disappear from our market for a couple years so I was happy to see it reappear on the shelves at Binny's, our local wine merchant. 

That said, their premier label Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes is now at a new price point at $125 per bottle, significantly higher than what I would consider to be comparable benchmark wines such as Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape or Chateau Vieux Telegraph. I should note it was reduced to a sale price to be more comparable to those other labels. I purchased some at the lower price. At less than half the price however, Les Granières de La Nerthe does offer CDP at a more affordable QPR (quality price ratio). These are two other Estates that I visited during this trip that I also collect for our cellar. Interestingly, the 2015 Beaucastel contains all thirteen of the CDP grape varietals.

While I was delighted to discover this second label of La Nerthe in our market, I admit I was a bit disappointed by it, perhaps due to my lofty expectations, or hopes. I was excited to try this so I bought some and made a point to pick up some BBQ brisket on the way home to try the combination. Perhaps, or apparently, my expectations were unrealistic, comparing it to the flagship first label.

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières de la Nerthe 2013

This was garnet colored with a slight brownish hue, not due to deterioration, somewhat opaque, medium bodied, lighter than I expected. The flavor profile is what Wine Spectator aptly referred to as "racy red currant and raspberry coulis flavors, enhanced by twinges of blood orange, tea and singed sandalwood". 

WS gave it 90 points. I give it 88 points due the lighter body, more subdued fruits, and narrow flavor profile. I believe this might also be due to the higher percentage of Grenache in the blend over the more fruit forward Syrah which we tend to favor. I'll try it again tonight after opening and settling and see if there is affect.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2494536

http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 150 Spring Mtn Cabernet

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 150 Napa Valley Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

I've written often in these pages about Ninety Plus Cellars and their Negociant model of wine marketing, buying surplus juice or bulk wine or bottled product, and then private-label branding it with a anonymized 'Lot' reference number tied to the source of the wine. Such arrangements are typically done under a non-disclosure agreement to shield the original brand/producer. Hence, here is Ninety Plus Cellars, Lot 150, Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon.

Lo and behold however, when one pulls the cork of these bottles, the cork reveals the true source of the wine, Spring Mountain Vineyards. In this case, the wine was bottled but not yet labeled for distribution, and apparently sold off to Ninety Plus Cellars who packaged it for retail sale under their negociant general brand that masks the supplier. But, the packaging reveals the original branding of the producer on the original cork in the bottle. According to the Ninety+ Cellars website, the "Source Label Price" for this wine was: $79.99, hence the need or practice of anonymity or not disclosing the original source of the wine. The Ninety+ price is about half of that - high QPR (quality-price-ratio) indeed. 

Indeed, the rear label of the Ninety Plus packaging speaks to Spring Mountain District as the source for the product, without attribution to a particular grower or producer.

When I purchased the first original bottle, I imagined who the source of this wine might be, thinking about the different Spring Mountain District suppliers of Cabernet Sauvignon. Spring Mountain Vineyards was one of those potential suppliers that I considered, but presumed would never be revealed or confirmed as the source. This is not the first occurrence of this happening as I recall at least one other occasion where the product was bottled and the cork revealed the original producer source of the wine. On at least one other occasion, the source was pretty much revealed or confirmed based upon the published detailed percentages of the blend of the wine.

I've written much in these pages about Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 which I enjoyed immensely, and lamented often the mis-fortune of not knowing the source so as to be able to purchase more product in subsequent vintage releases of the label. Since, in my experience, Ninety + tend to have more misses than hits to suit my personal taste, I tend to buy a bottle and try it before I load up on any label. Here is another case where I went back and bought more, and may do so again.

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 150 Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm structured backbone, complex concentrated blackberry and black currant fruits with layers of firm bone dry tannins with notes of oak, spice, hints of dark mocha, anise, leather and dust. Needs a bit more time to settle and not for the feint of heart with the rock hard tannins but if you like that style (which I do) then this is a great find at a good QPR (quality price ratio) value. 

This is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot aged 22 months in French Oak.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2793688

https://store.ninetypluscellars.com/lot-150-cabernet-sauvignon-spring-mountain-district-napa-valley-california-2013-p419.aspx

Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

After our Italian dinner we stopped in a NYC neighborhood wine shop enroute back to our hotel and picked up this causal sipper for an after dinner dessert wine to take back to the room. I selected a Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012, a Sauternes, an appellation in France’s Bordeaux region known for some of the most celebrated sweet wines in the world. Sauternes lies within the Graves district of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne River, where cool, foggy mornings and sunny afternoons play a key role in the creation of the area's acclaimed dessert wines.

Different from, but often confused with or compared to Ice Wine, Sauternes sweet dessert wines are produced by leaving the grapes on the vines to allow the beneficial mold Botrytis cinerea to affect the grapes. The Botrytis forms during the area’s damp mornings and causes the grapes to shrivel, creating sugar-laden fruit full of rich, concentrated flavors. Botrytis tends to develop late in the growing season, rewarding those vineyard growers who risk bad weather to leave the grapes on the vine. The resulting Sauternes flavor is rich and sweet, with botrytis contributing a honeyed complexity to the wine, like Ice Wine which is produced in the same way, but by leaving the grapes on the vine into the winter in cold climates.

The primary grapes of Sauternes are white grape variety Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This particular label is a blend of those two dominant Sauternes varietals.  This Petit label is the second label or the secondary more economical branding of the more sophisticated and renounced first or primary label, Château Guiraud which is designated a "1er Cru". The first label is naturally more complex, concentrated, expressive and or course, more expensive as to be expected, roughly twice the price.

 Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

This was straw or butter colored, medium full bodied with thick unctuous tongue coating, almost syrup of sweet 'sticky' notes of honey, hints of pineapple, apple and hints of caramel and what one wine writer referred to as chutney.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2102934

Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

After dinner we stopped in a neighborhood wine shop enroute back to our hotel and picked up this causal sipper for an after dinner dessert wine to take back to the room. I selected a Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012, a Sauternes, an appellation in France’s Bordeaux region known for some of the most celebrated sweet wines in the world. Sauternes lies within the Graves district of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne River, where cool, foggy mornings and sunny afternoons play a key role in the creation of the area's acclaimed dessert wines.

Different from, but often confused with or compared to Ice Wine, Sauternes sweet dessert wines are produced by leaving the grapes on the vines to allow the beneficial mold Botrytis cinerea to affect the grapes. The Botrytis forms during the area’s damp mornings and causes the grapes to shrivel, creating sugar-laden fruit full of rich, concentrated flavors. Botrytis tends to develop late in the growing season, rewarding those vineyard growers who risk bad weather to leave the grapes on the vine. The resulting Sauternes flavor is rich and sweet, with botrytis contributing a honeyed complexity to the wine, like Ice Wine which is produced in the same way, but by leaving the grapes on the vine into the winter in cold climates.

The primary grapes of Sauternes are white grape variety Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This particular label is a blend of those two dominant Sauternes varietals.  This Petit label is the second label or the secondary more economical branding of the more sophisticated and renounced first or primary label, Château Guiraud which is designated a "1er Cru". The first label is naturally more complex, concentrated, expressive and or course, more expensive as to be expected, roughly twice the price.

 Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

This was straw or butter colored, medium full bodied with thick unctuous tongue coating, almost syrup of sweet 'sticky' notes of honey, hints of pineapple, apple and hints of caramel and what one wine writer referred to as chutney.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2102934

Italian Wine & Dine Masseria dei Vini NYC

Italian Wine Dine Masseria dei Vini NYC

 

Italian Wine & Dine Masseria dei Vini NYC

During our week in NYC attending an industry conference and visiting son Alec, we dined at Masseria dei Vini (Masseria of Wines) which is a favorite of Viv's Bergonzi family when they are dining in town. The name is derived from masserias or fortified farmhouses, where in the Puglia region of Southern Italy, many of them have been transformed into restaurants or hotels. Chef Pino Coladonato is a native of Rutigliano (Bari), and has created a menu of dishes from Puglia, which incorporate fish, shellfish and a selection of homemade pastas. They offer an extensive wine list which features a large selection of mostly premium and ultra-premium labels, mainly from Italy, but also America, and a by-the-glass (BTG) selection too.

These pages have many posts from dining at our Angelis Italian in our hometown of Naperville, our favorite Italian trattoria, which is our benchmark for Italian dining. Its always interesting to compare Angelis with notable and popular Italian restaurants around the country, especially in dining meccas such as NYC.

From the Masseria dei Vini dinner menu, Alec ordered SPAGHETTI AL NERO CON VONGOLE, homemade Squid Ink Spaghetti with fresh baby clams, garlic and white wine sauce. I ordered AGNOLOTTI PIEMONTESI, homemade Half Moon shaped Ravioli Stuffed with Veal, in a Mix Wild Mushroom Sauce. Linda ordered the eggplant appetizer for her dinner entree, POLPETTINE ALLA FONTELINA, Eggplant Cakes with a Hint of Tomato Sauce and Basil. For a starter, we ordered the mussels.

The service including our server, Isaac, were excellent, knowledgeable, attentive, professional, and personable. 

Comparing to our home court Angelis, we found the mussels lacking, especially the sauce which was comparatively plain and uninspiring, perhaps lacking the white wine and butter components at Angelis. My pasta was also lacking in comparison to an Angelis dish I regularly order, which is more flavorful, especially the brown mushroom sauce. The veal in the Masseria dish seemed to be substandard. Good news for our hometown site.

From the winelist I order this Deltetto Roero Braja Riserva DOCG.
Deltetto has been producing high quality wines in Piemonte’s historic and prestigious wine producing areas of Roero and Langhe since 1953.  The family estate has 21 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards and the family’s winery in Canale, in the heart of the Roero in the Piemontese region.

Founder Carlo Deltetto's son Antonio and grandson Carlo run the business today, faithful to the founder's vision resulting in a broad family of wines that are known internationally.

Deltetto Roero Braja Riserva DOCG 2013

This is based on the Nebbiolo varietal. It is intense ruby red color, medium bodied, a firm structure with layer of elegant tannins, with a bouquet and flavors of intense red and black berry and black raspberry fruits.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2768469

http://www.masseriadeivini.com/

Authentic French Cuisine & Wine at Le Rivage NYC

Authentic French Cuisine & Wine at Le Rivage NYC

Visiting NYC for the week for industry conference provided opportunity to have a couple of dinners with son Alec. Our first outing took us back to the Hell's Kitchen neighborhood and Restaurant Street in the theatre district for authentic French cuisine at Le Rivage.

Not certain what we'd find for wine selections on the winelist we stopped at the neighborhood wine shop to pick up some wine as a backup safety net and/or for back at the hotel for the week. They graciously offered to serve our BYOB bottle for a corkage fee of $30.

Le Rivage is a third generation Denamiels family operation sited on Restaurant Row since 1984. Its
an authentic, quaint, cozy, even romantic, French country atmosphere with traditional French cuisine.

The narrow dining room is lighted by the art gallery along the walls covered with oil paintings of the rural French countryside and Cote' d'Azure. The candle-lit tables have white tablecloths and fresh flowers.

Being adjacent to the theatre district, Le Rivage offers a good value pre-theatre pric fixe dinner with starter, entree and dessert. I had a lineup of my wine-friendly favorites, Pâté de Campagne, Canard à L'Orange Roast Duck with Triple Sec Sauce Bigarade, and the raspberry sorbet. Linda had the Baked Seafood Crêpe with Bay-Scallops, Shrimp, Mushroom Duxelle, Cream, and Caramelized Onions. Alec had the Gambas Le Rivage Shrimp with Mushrooms and Onions, Merlot. All the food was delectable served by personable, professional, efficient attentive waitstaff.

From the winelist I chose this 2014 Philippine de Saint-Cyrille Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Réserve. For a modest price CDP, this exceeded my expectations, presenting a good QPR (quality price ratio), nice, easy drinking nice complement to the French cuisine.

Philippine de Saint-Cyrille Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Réserve 2014

Garnet colored, somewhat opaque, medium bodied, moderate black cherry fruits with notes of herbs, leather and hint of black olives.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2537490

http://www.lerivagenyc.com/
 

Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2013 at Bluebeards Indy

Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2013 at Bluebeards Indy

We dined at Bluebeard Restaurant in the trendy Fountain Square neighborhood of Indianapolis with Eric and Cathy and Pat and Rodger. Bluebeard is sited in an old garage with beam ceilings, brick walls, a large ornate entry door with a cozy side bar. The Bluebeard menu is comprised of small, medium and large sharable plates of seafood, pasta, and steak. A selection of side salads were also large enough for sharing. There's also a cheese and charcuterie selection and an appropriate suitable dessert menu.

I chose a favorite, foie gras which was delectable, not sufficient for sharing necessarily, but ideal for a red wine accompaniment. Eric & Cathy shared the Pappardelle italian sausage with sugo, basil, and parmesan, Linda and Pat shared the Coquilles St. Jacques with leeks, crimini mushroom, parmesan cream, toasted bread crumbs. 

The Bluebeard wine list offered a carefully selected diverse selection of American, French and Italian including many well known favorites and many premium and ultra-premium selections. Favorite selections that you'll read about in these pages or find in our cellar included (with some representative reference prices) Robert Craig, Chappellet, Crossbarn, Dominus ($500), Silver Oak (AV $180), Spring Valley, Venge (Scouts Honor $80) and Turley. The Italian and French selections included popular names Gaja, Giacosa, Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet, Barone Ricasoli Casalferro, Gaja Pieve Santa Restitua and Luce. There were also some Australian Penfolds and Spanish selections for Bordeaux varietal wine drinkers, Numanthia and Cune at both ends of the price spectrum.

Generally, the prices were a bit high at, or slightly more than 2X retail, but I also found this ideal selection for our dinner at almost retail price which was a rare anomalous bargain on the list.

Label shown from 2014

Pride describe this Merlot "as a Cabernet-lover’s Merlot with its thick and round mid-palate but this one also has tremendous density and size. The wine is packed full of stuffing, with flavors of chocolate, plum, strawberry, wet shale, crushed rose petal and za’atar spice. The blend is predominantly Merlot from our 12 estate vineyard blocks, with 8% of our Rock Arch Cabernet Sauvignon added for structure, depth of flavor and persistence."

Antonio Galloni gave this a Rating of 90 points. His review: "The Merlot is deep, dense and powerful, but it also drinks surprisingly well for the year. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, smoke, licorice, spice and French oak are all quite forward. Drink this plump, giving Merlot over the next handful of years. The 40% new French oak is a bit dominant today."

I liked it even though it was a bit obtuse, not polished or well integrated, with a slight edge that may wear off with some aging, dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black berry fruits with tones of spice, oak, and a layer of smokey notes of anise and hints of mocha and plum on a sharp tangy fruity finish. 

This is a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Pride estate vineyards at the top of Spring Mountain on the Napa side with some of the vineyards on the Sonoma side of the summit, hence it has an Napa/Sonoma designation. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1968548

https://www.pridewines.com/

http://bluebeardindy.com/

Close out '17 w 10 yr Icewine & 20 yr Balmoral Syrah

Close out 2017 w/ ten & twenty year old Vidal Icewine and Balmoral Syrah

For New Year's Eve wine party christening new neighbors Mark and Colleen's renovated barn hospitality room I took a ten year old and twenty year old to ring out the year. In tribute to Mark's heritage being born and raised in the Niagara Peninsula region, I took a ten year '07 Niagara VQA Vidal Icewine. And for earnest sipping with holiday party foods I took twenty year old '97 a Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah.

We toured the Niagara Peninsula back in 2012 visiting the legendary Inniskillin when we tasted and acquired their legendary Icewines during our visit to the Inniskillin Winery Estate, and the up and coming Jackson Trigg wineries as highlights of our time there. I have to admit I do not recall or have a record of when or where we acquired this Kittling Ridge Estates Vidal Icewine that I pulled from the cellar for tonight's tasting. I chose this bottle partly because of its festive box packaging ideal for gifting, and its decade milestone vintage as we close out '17. I do,  at least, have a record of it being in our cellar inventory. 

Kittling Ridge Estates Niagara Peninsula Vidal Icewine 2007 

They call this the showpiece of their collection of premium VQA (Canadian version of AVA or appellation) wines, this is harvested from estate vineyards in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula, Kittling Ridge are renowned for producing one of Canada’s first Icewines, called such because the grapes are harvested in the middle of winter when they are frozen on the vine. The grapes are hand-picked when the temperature falls below -8°C, then the frozen grapes are crushed immediately releasing a tiny amount of concentrated sweet nectar which is slowly fermented over several months.

This was a perfect complement to Linda's brie cheese in puffed pastry with roasted almonds and honey. 

When released these wines are straw colored, darkening as they age to the color of weak then stronger tea. Tonight this was dark tea colored, full bodied, rich unctuous concentrated with notes of roasted almonds, honey, with hints of smokey roasted peach and apricot on the thick tongue coating lasting finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2498661

http://www.kittlingridge.com/

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1997

Consistent with earlier tasting notes, "Dark purple colour, full aroma of perfume and fruit - the diminution of fruit continues as this wine is showing its age further with ripe concentrated plum and blackberry and black cherry fruits hanging on but giving way to ripe raisin fig tones accented by leather and a somewhat funky wet cedar with a touch of vanilla and sweet cherry - tightly wound with a tinge of tight tannins and acid on the subdued fruit finish.'

'These notes from 2014 followed my earlier note in 2013 that said, "Its time to drink up as this '97 which is showing its age as the fruit starts to diminish somewhat. Looking at Cellartracker tasting notes, one writer reports this vintage still holding on while another says his is over the hill. While past its prime, this was still very much still inside the drinking window." Showing that continued diminution, I would say that while still holding, this is nearing the end of its drinking window."

This was a fitting wine to open on New Year's eve, twenty years beyond release, suitable tasting with festive holiday buffet foods of sausages, ham, olives and avocado dips and cheeses. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17074

90+ Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah

90+ Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah

I wrote recently how we would miss this 90+ Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah wine when we consumed our last available bottle having enjoyed over the last few years a couple of cases that we gathered from several sources when we discovered it upon release. Being a negociant wine, we can't simply go back to the producer to obtain the next subsequent release. Such is the challenge of getting hooked on such wines, once they're gone, they're gone (unless of course the re-marketer can procure more from the source in subsequent years). More often, that is not possible as these are often one-time wonders, being excess inventory or interim contracts between longer term sourcing obligations between grower, producer, or others in the ecco-system.

Looking for a hearty Syrah to enjoy with cheese and snacks in front of the fire binging on the latest season release of "The Crown" on Netflix, I found another bottle in a case of Syrahs. Alas, once again we will mourn finishing our stash of this wine, while savoring another (surely our last this time) bottle.

Like I've written several times before, this high QPR full throttle fruit bomb was one of the best value, best tasting wines in our cellar over the last few years. This one continues to not only hold its own, but may be at the apex of its drinking window at seven years of age. 

 

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry, black currant and blueberry fruits with tones of cedar, sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth tannin finish. This was perfect for such casual sipping. Wish we had more.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

Robert Craig Veeder & Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago

Robert Craig Veeder & Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago

For a casual midweek dinner in the city with fellow 'Pour Boy' Lyle, and Terry, we dined at Mart Anthony a casual cozy neighborhood Trattoria near their pied a terre in the West Loop. I took at Robert Craig Mt Veeder 2001 BYOB to compare with the '97 we had the other night, and Lyle brought a Chateau St Jean Cinq Cépages 2010.

None of us had ever been to Mart Anthony casual Italian restaurant at Hubbard and Racine Streets so this was an spontaneous short notice adventure for a casual mid-week dinner in the City. Suffice to say, everything was delightful, much of it exceeding our expectations - atmosphere, ambiance, services and of course our BYOB wine.

We just happened to drive through the neighborhood passing Mart Anthony on route to Lyle and Terry's west loop condo. So when we were deliberating on where to go for dinner we called and they were able to accommodate us with our BYOB on short notice. As it was, we got one of the last remaining tables for the dinner seating.

We brought two complex full bodied wines that were spectacular complements to our Italian dining selections. I ordered the Veal Monte Carlo daily special, Terry the Sausage and Peppers, and Linda and Lyle both order the daily special Chicken in white wine sauce and spinach.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

I've written often in these pages about our collection of Robert Craig wines, perhaps the most extensive of any other producer in our cellar. We hold two dozen vintages of Craig Cabernets but it was surprising that I had not yet tried this vintage of this label.

I was eager to try this bottle following the extraordinary showing of the '97 vintage bottle we had for our Christmas holiday dinner. As I expected/hoped, this was drinking fabulously, perhaps at the apex of its drinking window, even still at sixteen years of age. Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright forward firm structured backbone of tangy black cherry and blackberry fruits accented by notes of cedar, spicy oak, leather, tobacco leaf and tea with firm but smooth approachable tannins on the finish.

Based on this tasting, I moved the published Cellartracker tasting window out from 2013 to 2019.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=48933

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Red Blend 2010

We've been fans of this wine since the late 80's and considered it a mainstay favorite for collecting and cellaring until it won Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year in the early nineties, at which point prices skyrocketed as awareness driven demand outstripped supply. The marketplace exploited the situation and one of our favorite red blends was no longer available or affordable with its customary high QPR. C'est la vie. We tasted the latest release during our visit to the Chateau winery estate during our Sonoma/Napa Wine Experience this summer.

This 2010 vintage may be the best Cinq Cépages I can remember. It is bigger, fuller and more concentrated than any I have had. This was immediately apparent when we opened and poured the dark inky purple thick full bodied juice into the glass while the room filled with bright floral and berry fruit aromatics.

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages is considered a 'Bordeaux Blend' as it contains all five of the predominant Bordeaux Varietals; 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot with a bit of Malbec.

This was dark inky purple, full bodied, dense, concentrated, muscular, complex with black fruits of plum, berry and currants accented by layers of clove spice, cedar, leather, cigar box and notes of earthy black olive with silky smooth lingering tannins and hints of cassis and dark mocha on the finish. This demands expressive food, full flavored cheese or dark mocha chocolate. This might improve further with several more years of aging as it settles and softens a bit as its a bit obtuse still at this time.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1710008

Wine Spectator gave this 93 points,  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinous both gave it 92 points.

Winemaker's notes: "The 2010 Cinq Cépages is a stunning color in the glass, deep ruby with a subtle violet colored rim. Layered aromas are vivid; black plum, blackberry compote, clove spice, tanned leather and a hint of fresh tobacco leaf. Secondary aromas of raspberry and spiced cherry mingle with notes of violet and pomegranate. The aromas lead to an incredibly juicy palate with flavors of blueberry, cherry and blackberry. Nuanced flavors of espresso and a distinct mocha component add to the complexity. The full-bodied wine has smooth, silky tannins that offer solid structure but do not overwhelm. The wine is plush and approachable yet complex and appealing in the glass. In signature Cinq Cépages form, this wine combines the strength of the diverse Sonoma County region to create a well-balanced, complex and powerful wine."

https://www.martanthonys.com/

Venge Napa Valley Oakville Penny Lane Vineyard Sangiovese

Venge Napa Valley Oakville Penny Lane Vineyard Sangiovese 2010

With son Alec visiting from NYC, we were joined by his girlfriend Viviana for a holiday visit. When Viv is around we have fun serving wines from one of our favorite producers, Venge with its 'V' branding prominently displayed on the label/bottle. We just received this lot of Venge Penny Lane Vineyard Sangiovese that we acquired at auction and were eager to try it.

In Italy, Sangiovese is the most widely planted red grape variety accounting for approximately 10% of all vineyard plantings. It is most notably known for use as the only component of Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino, and the main component of the blend Chianti wines. In recent years it has gained notoriety in "Super Tuscan" wines like the well known highly regarded Tignanello. It became very popular blended with Cabernet and some of the other Bordeaux varietal grapes. 

We like to keep some Sangiovese on hand for serving with Italian food. Wines made from Sangiovese usually have medium-plus tannins and high acidity. Sangiovese's high acidity and moderate alcohol makes it a very food-friendly wine. It is ideally suited with Italian cuisine such as tomato-based pasta and pizza sauces with a Sangiovese-based Chianti.

Sangiovese can accentuate the flavours of somewhat bland dishes like meatloaf and roast chicken. A benefit of Sangiovese is that it accentuates herbal seasonings such as basil, thyme and sage that tend to compliment the herbal notes  of the grape. When blended with Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah, the Sangiovese blend takes on the character of those fuller-bodied reds and pair with heavier dishes such as steak and thick soups.

Young Sangiovese tends to have fresh fruity flavours of strawberry and a little spiciness. When aged in oak barrels it takes on the oak notes and well as even tar like flavours. While not as aromatic as Pinot noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah, Sangiovese often has a flavour profile of sour red cherries with earthy aromas and tea leaf notes.

The well known Italian producer Antinori family promoted Sangiovese planting in America when they owned Atlas Peak Vineyards located in the Atlas Peak AVA in the foothills of Napa Valley. They found Californian Sangiovese could be more fruit-driven with floral notes than their Tuscan counterparts.

Nils Venge was an early proponent of Sangiovese in Napa Valley dating back to when he planted and produced Sangiovese wines while winemaker for Del Dotto in the mid to late nineties. We held some of those early vintages of Del Dotto as well as early vintages of Venge Sangiovese. Records show we held these label from the 1997, 1998 and 1999 vintages. We discovered and acquired those wines during our winery estate visits from that period.

Today, Venge produce another vineyard designated select Sangiovese sourced from fruit grown in the mountains on the Antinori family’s Antica Estate. They cite that this is one of just a handful of standing Sangiovese vineyards that remain in Napa Valley today. 

Venge Napa Valley Oakville Penny Lane Vineyard Sangiovese 2010

When I saw this label at auction, I eagerly bought the entire lot.  With limited production, it is not widely distributed and not generally seen here in the Midwest.

Wow. This exceeded my expectations and was bigger, brighter, and more expressive than what I remember or expected. It almost resembled a Syrah.

Dark inky colored, full bodied, rich concentrated extracted fruit, aromatic,almost intense black cherry and black raspberry with notes of tobacco leaf, tea and hints of tar on a smooth silky tannin laced finish. This was super with dark chocolate and begged for a spicy Italian pasta!

RM 92 points. 

This is a  blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Charbono.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1351287

The Cellartracker wine drinking window went out to 2016. Based on this tasting, I pushed it out to 2020!

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

Del Dotto Napa Gio and Cab Franc 1997

Del Dotto Napa Gio and Cab Franc 1997

With Son Alec visiting from NYC for Christmas, we had Linda's homemade lasagna for late dinner after late arrival from the airport. To accompany dinner, I opened this vintage Del Dotto Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997 from the cellar. We hold a decade of vintages of this wine and opted to open the oldest as its no doubt time to drink as its late in its drinking window life.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997 

Clearly showing its age at 20 years, the black cherry and berry fruits are giving way to leather, earth, smoke and a bit of funkiness starting to set in. The garnet color is starting to show some bricking and brownish rust hue on the edges.

RM 86 points.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 1997

The next evening we opened another 1997 vintage Del Dotto, this time the Napa Valley Cabernet Franc, which I suspected would be the next oldest drinking, ready to drink varietal from our vintage collection from this producer.

Holding its age better than the Tuscan from the evening before, this too was ready to drink, nearing the last chapter of its drinking window.

My last published tasting notes of this wine were last year when I wrote: "Tonight's tasting was more consistent with notes from a few years ago, dark ruby color, medium to full body, spicy black berry and black currant fruits are still vibrant in this nineteen year old, accented by tones of earthy leather, cedar and tobacco with hints of anise on the smooth tannin finish."

RM 88 points.