Premium Napa Reds for Family Birthday Celebration
Son Ryan and Michelle hosted the family for daughter/grand-daughter Mackenizie’s birthday. Ryan pulled from his cellar a flight of premium wines for the occasion.
Before dinner, they served a selection of artisan cheeses: Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, Italian triple milk soft cheese, and 1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.
Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, La Tur Italian triple milk soft ripened cheese, 1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.
Caseificio dell'Alta Langa, from the village of Bosia, in the heart of Alta Langa, a short distance from Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco. Family run since 1881, continuing the work of their grandparents passed down from generation to generation the ancient practice of local shepherds in the production of cheeses based on mixed or goat's milk.
Ryan pulled from his cellar this wine flight - ‘08 Pierre Moncuit BtB Champaigne, 2012 Kapcsandy Yountville Cabernet, and 2013 Cliff Lede SLD Cabernet. I brought from our home cellar a 2003 vintage Integrity Shiraz by Marquis Philips.
Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Champagne 2008
This is from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. The hamlet, one of the world’s best sites for Chardonnay with its ideal great terroir, old vines, and learned winemakers, is also home to other notable producers such as Krug, Salon, Pierre Péters and Selosse.
The estate is run by the mother and daughter team Nicole and Valérie Moncuit. Except for a Rose’, all their labels they produce are single vintage, single estate sourced wines that represent the terroir of the village. The 2008 vintage was one of the best in this century.
The 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru was given extended time on the lees for more than ten years resulting in added complexity that developed in bottle and was disgorged in November 2020.
It has all the racy, laser sharp acidity of the vintage, and the delicate richness we can attribute to élévage — the wine ferments in stainless steel, to preserve fruit purity, and is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, converting crisp, apple-y malic acid into rounder, softer lactic. There’s no oak aging, but this latest shipment of the wine spent nearly 15 years aging in the bottle, a time during which flavors meld and become something rich, toasty and deeply mineral.
Any sharp edges this wine may have had on release have softened and relaxed, leaving a complex wine with great depth. And while some 2008 vintage Champagnes (ahem, Krug, Cristal) are selling for hundreds of dollars, Moncuit’s is available for much less.
Reseller’s notes - Baked apple tart, spice, apricot, orange peel, spice, hazelnut and coffee are some of the many aromas and flavors that shape this wonderfully complex Champagne from Moncuit.
Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave this 94 points.
“Moncuit's Extra Brut …shows a different facet of its personality in this version, with lower dosage vis-à-vis the Brut version. Here the flavors are brighter and more sculpted throughout. Hints of toastiness, almond and tangerine oil add an exotic flair that makes the Extra Brut absolutely beguiling. Lower dosage seems to exalt the minerality and bright acids of the year, while pushing the fruit a bit into the background. Both Brut and Extra Brut bottlings are terrific; choosing among them comes down to personal preference. 94 points” Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
Kapcsandy Estate Yountville State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Ryan served from his cellar, a large format magnum, this 100 point ‘perfect’ wine (Robert M. Parker, Jr.) is from
Kapcsándy (pronounced "Cup-chon-dy") Family Vineyard in
Yountville, central Napa Valley, a father-son team of Lou and Louis Kapcsándy.
Lou Kapcsándy emigrated to the U.S. from Hungary in 1956 and had a successful career in chemical engineering and manufacturing in the San Francisco Bay Area, then in Seattle.
In 1998, Lou and his wife, Bobbie visited Bordeaux and the centuries-old estate, Leoville-Las Cases where they were inspired to retire in California and create a wine-based business in partnership with their son, Louis, Jr. There vision and goal was to produce wines of “First Growth” quality that could rival any region or winery in the world.
After a three month search they discovered the 20-acre parcel in Yountville, one the original crown jewels of Beringer Estates Private Reserve Cabernet, and acquiring the property in May 2000. They set upon a rigorous plan to redevelop the property including replanting the vineyard.
In 2002, the Kapcsándys completely replanted the vineyard site to 15 specific blocks, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and constructed a state-of-the-art winery in September 2005.
Son Louis, born in Marin County, California and raised in Seattle attended the University of Washington where he played varsity football and gained a degree in economics. After graduation, he worked in Los Angeles in feature-film post-production.
Louis Jr. began his wine career in 1999 when he co-founded Grand Cru Imports LLC with his father, specializing in Bordeaux Cru Classé and Petits Chateaux wines. He moved to Bordeaux to learn the intricacies of the Place de Bordeaux (a network of chateau owners, agents, and merchants) working for negociant firm Maison Joanne.
While at Maison Joanne, Louis visited more than 100 chateaux and learned fermentation methods, then apprenticed at Jean Luc & Murielle Thunevin of Ch. Valandraud (St. Emilion). During this time, he learned both classic and cutting-edge winemaking techniques from Alain Vauthier (Ch. Ausone) and Peter Sisseck (Pingus, Ribera del Duero).
Louis (Jr) returned in 2002 to co-found Kapcsándy Family Vineyard with his father. Today, he is intimately involved in all vineyard and winemaking decisions.
In the early days, and for this release, Denis Malbec was the consulting Winemaker for Kapcsandy Family Winery. Denis was born at Latour, where he learned winemaking and vineyard management early on with his father, Jean-Noel Malbec who worked at Château Latour from 1947 to 1994, and his grandfather, Camille Malbec who worked in the vineyard from the 1920s until the late 1970s.
Denis initially studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux and later in Reims, Champagne. He completed his studies with a “Tour de France” of the vineyards with work at Château Haut-Brion, Château Lagrange, the Pugnac Cooperative in Côte de Bourg, Léon Viollant, owner and wine merchant in Côte de Beaune, Duval Leroy, in the Côte des Blancs in Champagne and at Calvet, negociant in Bordeaux.
Denis started at Château Latour as one of the cellar workers in 1993 and took the position as enologist and winemaker at Château Latour in 1994 until 1999.
Denis and his wife moved to the United States in 2000, setting up base in St. Helena, working for such clients over the years as Charles Krug, Kapcsandy Wines, Respite Wines, Sodaro Estate and Medlock Ames. They also made Aliénor.
Denis worked with Kapcsandy Family from 2005 until he was tragically killed in a car accident in Yountville in 2016.
Today, winemaking duties are managed by the collaboration of consulting winemaker Tony Arcadia and Cellar Master David Sotelo.
Tony left his well-established career in tech and engineering to follow his passion for wine after 20 years working as an engineer aboard Navy submarines and then IBM.
He graduated from UC Davis’s oenological program and trained in France at Rhône-based Maison M. Chapoutier. Returning to the Napa Valley, he served as assistant winemaker at Nickel & Nickel in Oakville.
In 2009, Tony joined up with renowned winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett collaborating making wine together.
Tony’s addition to the winemaking team followed a career path parallel to Kapcsándys, from engineering background and training in France to pursue desire to cultivate vineyard-designated wines.
David Sotelo began his career in the wine industry Napa Wine Company, where he worked for 11 years before joining the Kapcsándy Family Winery team. He fondly recalls his first harvest at Kapcsándy in 2005 and the excitement of their first 100-point score from Robert Parker, Jr. for the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon-Grand Vin.
This 2012 Grand Vin Kapcsàndy release is a single vineyard designated label sourced, 100% from the
State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, composed of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot. The wine was aged for 20 months in new French oak barrels.
This release was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 99 points by Int'l Wine Review, 98 by Vinous, and 97 by Antonio Galloni.
All the pundits are consistent that this wine should last several more decades at the apex of its drinking profile.
If you’ve been fortunate to taste a 100 point ‘perfect’ wine, you might be in for a surprise … they’re not a blockbuster that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, they’re remarkable for their lack of excessive notes, and are flawless, and seamless in their polished harmonic integration.
Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich, plush polished, a symphony of ripe black currant and raspberry fruits with floral violet, cinnamon spice, graphite and hints of black olive and cedar notes on a smooth silky tannin laced lingering finish.
RM 94 points.
Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
This is the standard Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from the hillside terraces of the Poetry Vineyard down the road and across the Silverado Trail from the winery, from the Twin Peaks Vineyard estate surrounding the winery, and a few neighboring vineyards in the Stags Leap District.
Notably, this is just across and down the road from Kapcsàndy Family Winery and vineyards of the label above.
One of our favorites and mainstays of both Ryan's and my cellars, the
Cliff Lede Stags Leap property is just down and across the road from Kapcsàndy property geographically. We’ve visited the estate several times during our Napa Valley visits and held several private tastings/tours there.
This is a consistent crowd pleaser from vintage to vintage. We hold about a half dozen vintages of this label and they seem to hit their stride and be in their peak after a decade of cellaring.
The wine is composed of small lots from Lede estate vineyard best blocks, representing a diverse range of carefully selected clones and rootstocks. From Poetry’s exposed, rocky terraces that are volcanic in origin, to the ancient riverbed alluvial soils of Twin Peaks, the breadth of contributing sites translates into a wine of impressive complexity.
Robert Parker gave this release 93 points.
Producers’ Production Notes - “Hand harvested throughout the night, the fruit was immediately subjected to rigorous selection by our three-tiered sorting process, including our cutting edge optical sorter, with a goal of retaining only perfect berries. The selected fruit was gently delivered to specially-designed truncated tanks via gravity by our crane system, minimizing disruption of berry integrity. Cold soaks lasted approximately five days, and fermentations were managed by a combination of délestage and pumpovers. Extended maceration ranging from four to five weeks fine-tuned tannin profiles, allowing us to build mouth feel and wine complexity. The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new, for twenty-one months.”
Winemaker Notes - “Inky purple with blood-red tinged edges, the elegant and seamless 2013 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon's multilayered perfume fills the glass with notes of violets, lavender, and spring flowers. Intertwined with the floral notes are heady layers of plum, blackberry, and red currents. Silky, unctuous flavors of smoked cardamom, cinnamon, and black licorice lay out on the palate and finish with the taste and texture of liquefied rocks.”
Dark garnet and dense purple in color, full bodied, bright vibrant black berry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, hints of cinnamon spice and oak with firm but smooth tannins on a lingering finish.
RM 91 points. This got 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Vinous
I brought from our home cellar this limited release premium label from Marquis Philips, predecessor to the widely popular Mollydooker brand.
Marquis Philips Integrity Shiraz 2003
We loved the Marquis Philips portfolio of wines and wrote about them extensively in these pages, and of course, today they’re the widely popular Mollydooker brand.
Marquis Philips was formed as a collaboration between the U.S. importer Dan Philips and Sparky and Sarah Marquis, highly-regarded Australian winemakers who brought Fox Creek to cult fame. They had a falling out between the founders in late 2005 and the Marquis started their own label, Mollydooker. (Marquis Philips wines made since about 2005 were overseen by Chris Ringland, another legendary Australian winemaker.)
While Marquis Philips wines were known for their eye-catching, often provocative labels such as the ‘roogle’, a cross between an eagle and kangaroo - representing the Aussie, American partnership. Mollydooker went on to create their own portfolio is whimsical eye-catching labels.
Robert Parker wrote - Perhaps another way to think of these wines is that they are XXX-rated stuff. They’re not exactly wines for those wanting finesse, lightness, restraint, or intellectual challenge. These are totally decadent homages to joy and yumminess. Or. As a friend of mine said, they are ‘fragrantly delicious.'"
Because of Marquis Philips’ tumultuous history, the affordable wines are highly sought-after and difficult to obtain in the current market. We acquired a couple vintages of this, their ultra-premium flagship label at auction. This was our last bottle, I was saving for a special occasion.
Of course, the saga continues and becomes more interesting. The turmoil in the house of Philips continued as Sarah and Sparky then had a falling out of their own, and winemaker Sarah bought out Sparky. Sparky it turns out was a friend of my Australian employee representative when I was still running a software company! I had plans to visit Aussie wine country and meet Sparky, then Covid, and I never made the trip.
Marquis Philips "Integrity" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia 2003
Notably, we drank an earlier vintage release of this label at another special occasion - taking it to a highly acclaimed restaurant BYOB for our anniversary celebration dinner five years ago - as covered in this blogpost -
Goosefoot Chicago Anniversary Celebration Dinner, excerpted below.
Marquis Philips 'Integrity' Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2001
This is the premium release from Marquis Philips, precursor to Mollydooker. and their Velvet Glove premium label. We acquired this at auction a decade ago ... packaged in special gift box - awaiting a suitable occasion for gifting or serving ... OTBN - Open That Bottle toNight!
This (2001) got over-the-top 99 and 97 point ratings from Parker who called it 'virtually perfect'.
Back in the day, winemaker and producers Sarah and Sparky Marquis considered this the finest they had ever produced.
We hold a couple dozen bottles of their wines dating back two decades.
Ironically, we hosted Aussie colleague Peter F this weekend in Chicago and it turns out he is a personal friend of Sparky back in Adelaide South Central Australia!
That Integrity packed a walloping 16.2% alcohol but didn't come across as the least bit overpowering. Parker cited the anticipated maturity out to 2020 so it was supposedly still at but nearing the end of its apex.
Similar to and consistent with that earlier release …
Inky dark garnet purple color, full bodied, big rich concentrated and multi-dimensional, but not as big, forward or unctuously rich as some that we have had, the fruit was also a bit more subdued than expected, black berry fruits accented by white floral, cassis, leather, tobacco, tea and hints of vanilla with fine smooth silky tannins on a long finish. Perhaps the fruit has subsided over the almost two decades.
At the time I gave the 2001 RM 93 points, tonight I give the 2003 92 points.
https://mollydookerwines.com.au/https://twitter.com/MollydookerWinehttps://twitter.com/unwindwineRobert Parker writings about Marquis Philips …
“Marquis Philips is the most exciting wine project to emerge from Australia, and perhaps the New World, in the last year. Run, don't walk to a client of The Grateful Palate and secure as much as you can of these wines. This must be the most exciting development that has occurred in the Southern Hemisphere over the last several years. Marquis Philips is a partnership between highly talented winemakers Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their American importer, Dan Philips (of The Grateful Palate). I favorably reviewed the stunning debut values of the Marquis Philips range in the 2000 vintage. Remarkably, the 2001s are even more amazing, and probably for the price, the greatest red wine values in existence ... anywhere! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #143 (Oct 2002”
Robert Parker 93 - “The flagship offering, the 2003 Shiraz Integrity, is a slightly down-sized version of the massive 2002 and 2001. Nevertheless, it is an amazing, modern-styled wine. It boasts a dense purple color, a big, sweet nose of chocolate, espresso roast, blackberries, creme de cassis, Asian spices, and new saddle leather, full body, an opulent texture, and tremendous length. Drink this seductive, rich Shiraz over the next decade.”
“The highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, in partnership with their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate, successfully launched the inexpensive line of Marquis Philips wines several years ago, creating something of a monster because of their enormous crowd appeal. While 2003 is a lighter vintage than its predecessors, these offerings have turned out nicely. The handful of consumers who deemed 2002 too concentrated for such inexpensive wines will be delighted to learn that the 2003s are slightly lighter, but still loaded with character as well as flavor. They possess heavy duty, exuberant fruit, ripeness, and considerable personality.”
94 - Wine AdvocateReview Date: 02/2013
