Day in Chicago - Art Institute - Chez Joël French Bistro

Day in Chicago - Art Institute - Chez Joël Authentic French Bistro Cuisine with High QPR Wine Selections

Sister Pat and niece Lauren visited for the weekend and we did one of our favorite Chicago excursions, the magnificent Art Institute of Chicago (AIC), followed by dinner at Chez Joël Authentic French Bistro. I've posted notes about Chez Joël in these pages going back ten years or more.

Photo from earlier visit

We've been members of the Art Institute of Chicago (AIC) for more than three decades and make a point to frequently take advantage of one of the crown jewels of Chicago including seeing all the major exhibits. AIC was named the best Museum in the World and Chicago’s #1 attraction by TripAdvisor, the only museum in the world to be top-ranked by TripAdvisor four years in a row. It has the greatest Impressionist collection outside Paris and contemporary masterpieces in the spectacular Modern Wing.

I never tire of seeing my favorites from the extensive collections including many iconic works - my absolute favorite Night Hawks by Edward Hopper,  A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat that covers an entire gallery wall, Claude Monet's Water Lillies, ‘Paris Street; Rainy Day’ by Gustave Caillebotte, 65 works by Pierre August Renoir, Nightlife by Archibald John Motley Jr., and even some works by Frank Lloyd Wright for whom I'm a docent interpreter and give tours at the FLW Home & Studio and so many more!

This was the last weekend to see the Salvador Dali special exhibit at the Art Institute, and, not surprisingly, it was well attended with large crowds and long lines. Fortunately, the Van Gogh special exhibit also recently opened and we were able to see that as well. It is a detailed learned exhibit and definitely warrants a return trip for a more in-depth focused visit. 

The "Salvador Dalí: The Image Disappears Exhibit", the first devoted to the Spanish Surrealist at the Art Institute, featured more than 30 paintings, drawings, photos, and surrealist objects, as well as a selection of printed matter, books, and artists ephemera. The exhibit cover the pivotal decade of the 1930s when Salvador Dalí emerged as the inventor of his own personal brand of Surrealism, "considering Dalí’s work in light of two defining, if contradictory, impulses: an immense desire for visibility and the urge to disappear".

The "Van Gogh and the Avant-Garde: The Modern Landscape" exhibit runs through the summer until September. It covers the period between 1882 and 1890 and actually features five artists; Vincent van Gogh, along with Georges Seurat, Paul Signac, Emile Bernard, and Charles Angrand and their work in the villages on the fringes of Paris. AIC text - "Unlike the earlier Impressionists, who in the previous decade had spent significant time in suburban locations further from the city, this next generation of ambitious artists preferred the northwestern suburbs around Asnières. This area along the Seine River had long been a popular spot for recreation and relaxation but was becoming increasingly populated with coal, gas, and manufacturing facilities in the last decades of the 19th century. And while its industrial development was an unappealing aspect to many, these artists found in the changing physical and social landscape a fresh and rich source of creativity, as Van Gogh’s letter indicates."

The exhibit featured more than 75 paintings and drawings from this "intensely creative period" — many from private collections and rarely publicly displayed — brought together for this insightful presentation. Among them are 25 works by Van Gogh, including paintings from all three triptychs that he executed in these suburbs. It was fun to see one of the major works was loaned to the exhibition by son Ryan's boss's boss's ultimate boss, Larry Ellison, Chairman and Founder of Oracle.

https://www.artic.edu/exhibitions/9639/van-gogh-and-the-avant-garde-the-modern-landscape

https://www.artic.edu/exhibitions/9713/salvador-dali-the-image-disappears

From the AIC we went to Little Italy, Taylor Street for dinner.

As we have written often before in these pages, Chez Joël is one of our favorite eateries in the City (Chicago). As usual the service was outstanding, food was delectable and the price was agreeable.

Chez Joël located on Taylor Street in what is still referred to as 'Little Italy' is quaint, artsy, intimate, tasteful, comfortable,  authentic yet unpretentious in its French Bistro setting and faire. We had a perfect lat summer evening sitting outside in the adjacent courtyard.

I had the Filet Mignon with pomme puree', Linda and Pat shared/split the daily special pan seared White Fish, and Lauren had the Coq au vin  (shown in order, below).

As usual, we started with the Pâté de deux Sortes Duck Liver Pâté and the Fromage de Brie Chaud, warm Brie Cheese with Honey, Caramelized Granny Smith Apples, Apricot, Garlic, Pistachio & Toast.

And as with previous visits, we had from the winelist one of our favorite labels, the Crozes Hermitage Northern Rhone Syrah, as recounted in my previous blogpost from last fall.

Marlène & Nicolas Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes Hermitage 2020

Once part of the cave co-operative at Tain-Hermitage, since 2008 the family vineyards of Domaine Chevalier are gradually being reclaimed by the brother and sister team of Nicolas and Marlène Chevalier. Nicolas tends the vineyards and crafts each cuvee, while Marlène handles all of the sales and marketing for Domaine Chevalier.

Following his formal agricultural studies in France, Nicolas spent four years honing his winemaking skills on estates in Australia, California and South Africa. After completing studies in agronomy and enology in France, he headed to South Australia’s Clare Valley where he mastered various techniques for fermenting Shiraz (Syrah). He then worked with Kendall Jackson in California crafting white winemaking skills. To further his post-graduate wine studies, he spent 2002 in South Africa working at legendary three-hundred-year-old Boschendal estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, a winery renowned for its superb Syrah-based wines.

Marlène and Nicolas Chevalier farm three small vineyards at their meticulously tended family property comprising 3 1/2 acres in Crozes-Hermitage from which they produce on average 500 cases of red and white Rhône wines in tiny lots which are highly allocated. Their wines are found only in a couple of importer direct wine clubs and renowned restaurants in North American.

This is from Crozes, the village adjacent the more prestigious appellation that shares part of its name, but operates in Hermitage’s shadow. The Crozes-Hermitage appellation area extends about 10 miles (16 km) both north and south of Tain and Hermitage itself and is known to produce more approachable wines than its higher profile neighbor. By 2017, almost 4,200 acres (1,700 ha) of vines had been planted among the local cherry and apricot orchards. Unlike Hermitage, land in Crozes-Hermitage is relatively affordable and available providing an opportunity for enthusiastic newcomers, as well as a number of local growers, who want to bottle the fruit of their own labors, rather than send their production to the Cave de Tain co-op, the case of this wine too.  

Nicolas works with several distinct parcels for their wines: La Motte, Marius, Petite Pend, Les Pends and namesake source for this label, Les Voleyses. These vineyards have clay and limestone soils with excellent exposure, known to produce ripe, high quality grapes with great aromatic character and freshness. The Domaine Chevalier site has been producing grapes for notable wines gaining high praise and critical acclaim for more than three centuries.

Like the 2018 vintage we tasted earlier, the 2020 vintage was also top rated in the Northern Rhône. This represents a great value, high QPR (quality price ratio) wine.

 

Importer notes for the 2018 release: The 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes-Hermitage sports a brilliant purple robe and a captivating aroma redolent with the scents of blackberry, plum, violets, and exotic spices. Sensuous and seductive in the mouth, the 2018 Les Voleyses graces the palate with a silky texture and pure floral, fruit, and forest floor flavors that have aptly been described as hedonism in a glass. Moreover, the 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses is juicy and harmonious to the finish, as it makes an exit with joyful panache.

 

The Voleyses Cuvée is 100% Syrah made from younger vine fruit and aged in stainless steel.

 

Tonight's tasting was totally consistent with our earlier experiences with this label.

Deep inky purple colored medium-full bodied, full round layers of blackberry and plum fruits, notes of black tea, spice and leather overtake the fruits, turning to soft chewy textured tannins on a medium finish. 

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4133858

The 2018 release - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3495672
Earlier vintage release blogpost - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/12/intimate-dinner-suzettes-creperie.html

As usual and to be expected at Chez Joel, a wonderful, relaxing fun wine and dine evening.

http://chezjoelbistro.com/

 

 

Zaca Mesa Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Syrah

 Zaca Mesa Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Syrah 2017

Son Alec stopped by to see cousin Lauren and Aunt Pat in town for the weekend. We opened this robust Syrah for casual sipping with artisan cheeses, fresh fruits and veggies on the deck. 

We wrote about this Zaca Mesa Winery label when we tasted it upon receipt as part of our wine club allocation shipment late last fall - Zaca Mesa Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Syrah.

We visited the Zaca Mesa Estate and Vineyards in Santa Ynez Valley during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience a year ago last spring. We joined their wine club after tasting their portfolio of Rhone varietal based wines highlighting Syrah, one of our favorite varietals. 

Located just 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean, the vineyards sit in the sweet spot between a cool and warm climate. The high elevation vineyard site in Santa Barbara County’s  Santa Ynez Valley wine country give them the ability to grow dynamic, balanced Rhône grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier.

Ranging from cool and foggy in the west to warm and dry in the east, the Santa Ynez Valley is a climatically diverse growing area. The most expansive AVA within the larger Santa Barbara County region, Santa Ynez is also home to a wide variety of soil types and geographical features. The appellation is further divided into four distinct sub-AVAs—Sta. Rita Hills, Ballard Canyon, Los Olivos District and Happy Canyon—each with its own defining characteristics.

A wide selection of grapes are planted there with more than sixty different varieties, and counting including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that pre-dominate in the chilly west, while Zinfandel, Rhône blends, and Bordeaux blends rule to the arid east. Syrah is successful at both ends of the valley, with a lean and peppery, Old-World sensibility closer to the coast and lush berry fruit further inland.

Zaca Mesa Estate Winery on Foxen Canyon Rd
Los Olivos, CA

We were eager to try this Reserve 'flagship' Syrah from this producer who specializes in California Syrah. Their feature of wine says, this "Mesa Reserve Syrah represents the best of our mesa top vineyard, focusing on our favorite blocks of Syrah on our estate, ranging in vine age between 9-22 years."

Zaca Mesa's focus on Syrah intensified when in 2004, they planted their "first true high-density vineyard,” said Director of Vineyard & Winery Operations Eric Mohseni, at the time. “This new vineyard was planted to new Syrah clones and rootstock combinations for Zaca Mesa. The resulting wines had a different tannin and flavor profile. This was the birth of the Mesa Reserve.”

The resulting grapes harvested from that vineyard site displayed a "purity of fruit, broad tannins, and complex aromas of the wine" such that they believed it merited a higher-tier "reserve level" Syrah. Such was the birth of this label Mesa Reserve Syrah, crafted from select barrels from the different sub-blocks to create this wine.

Zaca Mesa Estate Vineyard

This is a blend of fruit sourced from sites "high on a mesa top in Santa Ynez Valley, where the various clones of Syrah ripen in the sun. They are planted on multiple varieties of rootstock, huddled close together in a high-density planting scheme. The microclimate here is unique – several degrees cooler than the neighboring town of Los Olivos."

"The Mesa Reserve is more of a 21st Century wine,” says Brand Ambassador Dane Campbell. “It’s the culmination of our 38 years of experimentation with Syrah, leading to a match of the correct clones and rootstocks to our specific vineyard site.”

“These younger blocks offer a great contrast to older Syrah vines on the property,” says Winemaker Kristin Bryden. “These new clones planted and grown with modern viticultural practices give the Mesa Reserve a brightness of fruit and complex richness that is unique when compared to our older blocks.”

Zaca Mesa Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Valley Estate Syrah 2017

Winemakers' Notes on this release.  The 2017 Mesa Reserve is a brooding wine. It is comprised of our favorite blocks of Syrah on our estate ranging in vine age from 9- 22 years. The 2017 Mesa Reserve Syrah’s black ripe fruits are saturated with aromatic notes of churned earth, smoked meat, sweet cigar, and dark chocolate. Upon the first sip, the texture and tannins are bold, delivering a decadent middle palate layered with flavors of plum and blackberry jam.

I love it and applaud that Zaca Mesa shares the credit across the winemaking and vineyard team - Kristin, Randy, Agustin, Ruben, José, Angel & Ramirez.

This is 100% Santa Ynez Valley Syrah, sourced from Zaca Mesa estate vineyard Blocks Mesa A, B3, C6 & Chapel G4, G5, it was aged 21 months in 25% new French oak. A total of 856 cases were produced.

The 2017 release was rated 93 points by Antonio Galloni, 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

This was delightful with hearty aged Gouda cheese, dark chocolate and assorted fresh fruits and veggies. 

Tonight was consistent with that earlier tasting when I wrote, "Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm tight but vibrant aromatic blackberry and ripe cherry fruits, more restrained than those brooding overpowering unctuous fruit bombs, this shows more minerality and wet stone, highlighted by essence of what the winemaker aptly calls 'smoked' or another pundit calls 'roasted' meat, notes of soy, baking spices, hints of tobacco and bitter dark chocolate on the lingering moderate tannin laced finish."

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3909879

https://www.zacamesa.com/

 

Zaca Mesa Winery Twitter - @ZacaMesa_Wine

https://shop.zacamesa.com/2017-Mesa-Reserve-Syrah-6pk-

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine Bordeaux Blend 2006

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine Bordeaux Blend and Carpenter Creek Cellars Bourbon Barrel Zinfandel with BBQ beef brisket and chocolate finisher

Dearest friends, 'brother' Bob and Gloria were in town from South Florida and we hosted them for an informal dinner on the deck, of beef brisket and red wines. 

I pulled from the cellar this Columbia Valley Bordeaux Blend that proved to be a perfect pairing. This is a wine that we enjoyed together at the Delray Beach Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar during a visit to South Florida - Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine. The Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar in Delray Beach boast to have "The World's Largest Selection of Wine by the Glass!

This is from Quilceda Creek, one of the top producers in Washington State. (Check out the absolutely breathtaking video of their vineyards on their website.) The current winery was founded by Alex Golitzin in 1978, nephew of the legendary wine pioneer André Tchelistcheff, the first vintage was produced in 1979. Quilceda Creek has a long history dating back to the late 1800's and was Washington State’s 12th bonded winery after Prohibition.

Today, Quilceda Creek produce world class Cabernet Sauvignons from five vineyards in the notable Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain American Viticultural Areas (AVA) in the Columbia River Valley in Central Washington State. Their Champoux Vineyard is one of the oldest vineyards in Washington State and the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown there have produced five of Quilceda Creek’s perfect 100-point wines. Grapes for the sixth 100-point wine were sourced from Galitzine Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA.

Paul Golitzin, Alex and Jeannette Golitzin’s son serves as President and Winemaker overseeing all aspects of winemaking and vineyard operations. Paul grew up at the winery and learned the craft of winemaking from his father, Alex, and his great uncle, André Tchelistcheff.

The legendary Andre Tchelistcheff became one of the most influential and accomplished figures in the American Wine Industry. While studying at French National Agronomy Institute and doing research at the Pasteur Institute, he was introduced in 1938 to Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) founder and owner Georges de Latour. Tchelistcheff had offers from winemakers worldwide but agreed to join Beaulieu Vineyard in Napa Valley as BV's vice president and chief winemaker.

Tchelistcheff defined the style for high-quality California Cabernet Sauvignon, and created the "Georges de Latour Private Reserve" label. He crafted many techniques of modern winemaking and introduced new procedures such as aging wine in small French Oak barrels, cold fermentation, vineyard frost protection, malolactic fermentation, and he was instrumental in helping develop the winemaking regions in Carneros, California, Oregon and Washington.

Tchelistcheff  remained vice president of Beaulieu Vineyards until his retirement in 1973 and went on to become consulting enologist to some of the biggest names in American wines such as Jordan Vineyard & Winery  beginning with its inaugural 1976 vintage. He also consulted to Joseph Heitz, Mike Grgich, Joel Aiken, Neibaum/Coppola, Buena Vista Winery, George & Peter Rubissow, Erath Winery, Sequoia Grove, Chateau Ste. Michelle, and Columbia Crest Winery. 

While consulting for Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington, Tchelistcheff advised Mike McGrath in 1991 from Conn Creek Winery with the Anthology "Bordeaux Blend" program. There he also gave winemaking advice to his nephew, Alex Golitzin who went on to found Quilceda Creek Winery in with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon. Tchelistcheff was inducted into the Culinary Institute of America's Vintner's Hall of Fame in 2007.

Under the tutelage and mentoring of Tchelistcheff and his father, Alex Golitzin, the handicraft of Paul Golitzin and Quilceda Creek has become internationally recognized for it's world class Cabernet Sauvignon and has been awarded ten 100-point scores from leading critics.

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine Bordeaux Blend 2006

This is the baby second wine to the ultr-premium Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignons. It is produced from declassified fruit as an introduction to Quilceda Creek’s brand, and intended to be enjoyed in its youth providing early drinking gratification. While not at the quality level of the top wines, it is a fair introduction to the house style at a fraction of the price providing a decent QPR - Quality Price Ratio. (The ultra-premium big brother flagship 2006 Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 99 points by Decanter, 98 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 96 points by Wine Advocate.)

The 2006 vintage release Columbia Valley Red was sourced from grapes from the Champoux, Ciel du Cheval, Galitzine, Klipsun, and Tapteil Vineyards and aged the wine in French oak, much of it new, for 22 months. 

 

This is a classic sophisticated Bordeaux Blend comprised of 77 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec. 2200 cases were produced.

 

Winemaker notes - "It’s a very traditional Bordeaux style combination, and while you may not be able to pick out the individual varietal components, you’d notice their absence if they were missing. We make this wine for our clients’ enjoyment on the early side, and while it is medium bodied compared with the heft of our other wines, it does not lack for complexity and fullness. On release it displayed notes of black cherry fruit, cedar, spice, vanilla, and a hint of savory minerality. It was approachable then, with at least 15 years ahead of it.'

"The Quilceda Creek 2006 Red Wine Columbia Valley is a blend of declassified lots which reflect the richness and complexity of the vintage. This is one of our favorite Red Wine offerings to date. This medium bodied wine displays black cherry fruit, cedar, spice, vanilla and minerals."

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine Advocate. 

At seventeen years, the fill level, label, foil, and importantly, the cork were in ideal condition. This was at the apex of its drinking window, but likely nearing the end, and won't improve with further aging. Enjoy it in the next few years.

Dark ruby-colored, medium to full-bodied, concentrated but nicely integrated and balanced sweet black currant fruits with note of cola, cassis, mocha, tobacco leaf, graphite and floral violets with a moderate smooth polished soft tannins on the finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=552969

https://www.quilcedacreek.com/

Earlier tasting blogpost - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/09/forts-latourquilcedaredwine.html

https://twitter.com/quilcedawine 

@quilcedawine

We then pulled from the cellar and tasted this unique Carpenter Creek Cellars Bourbon Barrel Zinfandel. As I wrote in an earlier post about this was a huge hit pairing it with barbecue pork and Baby Ray's barbecue sauce. Tonight proved to be the case as well, pairing this wine with the beef brisket, and then as much so, with the chocolate cake with caramel drizzle and fresh berries for dessert. Wow! Once again, the combination of the two, each perfectly accenting and highlighting the other, was delightful for a sensational sensory experience! 

Carpenter Creek Cellars Bourbon Barrel Zinfandel 2017

Another reason for the appropriateness of this wine tonight is that we're all fellow Indiana Hoosiers. Bob is from Indiana and indeed we met as Fraternity Brothers at Indiana University. 

Hence, I pulled this Carpenter Creek Cellars from north central Indiana which was featured in an earlier post in these pages when we visited the winery and discovered their wines. They acquire grapes from growers throughout the midwest, California, and also grow some of their own. 

For this Zinfandel varietal selection, they obtained grapes from northern California sources, and aged the wine in used Bourbon Barrels. The result was infusing an exotic smokiness and liquor layer that when combined with the full forward Zinfandel fruits accentuated and highlighted the tangy barbecue wonderfully. 

Linda stopped in at Carpenter Creek during her visit with out of state family a while back and tasted and picked up a couple bottles of this label. We liked it and hence picked up some more when they re-released the label.

This label release from Carpenter Creek Cellars features a striking gold label packaging, the first indication that there is something special going on here.

Garnet colored, slightly opaque, medium-full-bodied, black fruits accented by clove spice, smoke, caramel, vanilla, and hints of black pepper and cocoa. An nice pairing with with BBQ and chocolate.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3807095

Domaine Serene "Evenstad Reserve" Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and grilled beefsteak

Domaine Serene "Evenstad Reserve" Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and grilled beefsteak

Beautiful Saturday night dine-in on the deck, we grilled a Cowboy Tomahawk Ribeye beefsteak, served with roasted potatoes, grilled onions and fresh vege plate. In light of the 90 degree temp weather, I pulled from our cellar an aged vintage Pinot Noir as an accompaniment, offering something lighter and more approachable than a full throttle Bordeaux varietal. 

This turned out to be a perfect pairing accentuating the enjoyment of both the wine and the dinner. In addition to the beefsteak with grilled onions, the effervescence of the wine was especially amplified by the robust tomatoes and a side of sourdough bread with honey butter!  

Readers of these pages know we typically favor Bordeaux varietal wines but on occasions such as this we will turn to Burgundy. Part of tonight's selection was also inspired by the fabulous memorable Vosne Romanee Burgundy Pinot we had at our Pour Boys Winers and Diners dinner the other night. 

This is one of the select few Pinots that we collect and hold in our cellar and I pulled this aged thirteen year old, the oldest vintage as part of proper cellar rotation management, which we'll likely replace with a current vintage as part of maintaining this vertical collection. 

This particular label has some special significance since Linda and I discovered it at a memorable outing during one of our get-away weekends to Chicago. We had a bottle at Smith & Wollensky sitting outside overlooking the Chicago River for a summer afternoon wine, salad and cheese interlude. Its been a favorite ever since. 

This is from producer Domaine Serene, whose owner proprietors Grace and Ken Evenstad who, after 20 years building a successful business in Minnesota, settled in the Oregon Willamette Valley in 1989. They acquired a 42-acre hilltop estate that had just been logged in the Dundee Hills with the intent of growing and producing world-class Burgundian style Pinot Noir. They established Domaine Serene, naming the winery after their daughter, Serene, and their first vineyard on the estate after their son, Mark Bradford Evenstad.

Today, the Evenstad's land holdings have grown to over 1,000 acres, more than 360 of which are planted to vine in three AVAs of the Willamette Valley.

Domaine Serene produces wines from six individual vineyard estates, planted exclusively to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Each estate offers a diversity of soils, clones, rootstocks, microclimates, slopes and elevations that add distinguishing complexity and elegance to the wines.

Since the first vintage in 1990, Domaine Serene has produced award-winning wines, including this Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir, recognized as the World’s #3 Wine of 2013 by Wine Spectator Magazine.

Their 2012 Winery Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir was named the Top Pinot Noir in the World by Decanter magazine in 2016. The 2014 Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay received 95 points and was ranked the #2 wine in the world on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year. As a result, Domaine Serene became the only winery in the world to receive a Top 3 rating in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Over the years, Domaine Serene’s wines have produced 200 wines scoring 90 points or higher by Wine Spectator.

In 2017, the 2013 Domaine Serene Jerusalem Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir was awarded the Top American Pinot Noir at the Decanter World Wine Awards. 

Domaine Serene "Evenstad Reserve" Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010

This label release is 100% Pinot Noir sourced from eight of the estate vineyards of the 142 acre estate in the Dundee Hills AVA of which 84 acres are planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the oldest vines dating to 1993. The vineyard sits at an elevation of 520-825 feet in the rolling hills of the Willamette Valley. 

This release was rated 95 points by Wine Spectator and was #3 Wine of the Year, Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of 2013, 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, the highest-scoring Evenstad to that date.

6,000 cases were produced. 

Winemaker Notes - "Wonderfully complex wine that delivers an array of red fruits, caramel, baking spice, vanilla, dried flowers, and potpourri. On the palate, this elegant wine shows a harmonious balance of structure, richness and acidity with soft tannins and a clean, lingering finish."

Wine Spectator said to drink through 2020, Wine Advocate in 2015 said it drink it over the next decade (through 2025), and I believe it is at near the end of the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging, time to enjoy!

Despite the soiled label, importantly, the fill level and cork were in ideal condition

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, vibrant expressive black raspberry and plum fruits with sprites of cherry, cinnamon spice, black tea and hints of graphite and what Advocate called 'bay leaf', with a long tangy finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1601874

https://www.domaineserene.com/

https://twitter.com/SereneWine 

@SereneWine

Tensley Colson Canyon Santa Ynez Mountains Syrah 2020

Tensley Colson Canyon Santa Ynez Mountains Santa Barbara Country Syrah 2020

For a midweek dinner cookout, we selected from the cellar one of our favorite, best drinking right now, full throttle Syrahs. 

It was just about a year ago that we discovered and acquired this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

We discovered Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines during that Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley Wine Experience while driving the Foxen Canyon wine trail. One of the producer's we visited recommended we check out Tensley Wines, which was near that estate we were visiting. 

We drove by the Tensley vineyards on Alisos Canyon Road, (shown left) which was closed, so we stopped in the Tensley tasting room in downtown Los Olivos.

I was not aware of this brand prior to this trip. It was a top discovery and revelation and may certainly be one of our go-to boutique labels going forward. We joined their wine club to obtain a supply of their labels from those tasted and going forward. 

Colson Canyon Vineyard | Santa Ynez Mountains

Since joining their wineclub, we have acquired a half dozen labels from this producer, but this single vineyard designated label remains our favorite. Sourced from Colson Canyon Vineyard, high up in the Santa Ynez Mountains north of Los Olivos, it has been providing exceptional Syrah fruit to Joey Tensley since 2000. It is this fruit that helped Tensley become the one of most sought after Syrah's on the coast with consistent high ratings, one vintage flirting with Robert Parker perfection at 99 points.

Tensley released his first vineyard-designate Syrah from Colson Canyon in 2001 and the wine press took notice. That year Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator named two of Tensley’s 2001 Syrah’s to his list of the Top Ten Wines in the World. Robert Parker, Jr. scored all the ‘01’s in the high 90’s, calling them “serious, hand-crafted efforts.”

By 2008, Food and Wine Magazine named the Colson Canyon Syrah “Top Syrah in America Over $20.” Two years later, Robert Parker gave the 2008 Anniversary Series Colson Canyon Syrah 99 points, and Wine Spectator Magazine named the 2008 Colson Canyon Syrah "#17 of its Top 100 Wines in the World". The 2007 Colson Canyon Syrah was ranked #22 the year before. Since then, the string of high scores has been consistent.

Tensley and his wife Jennifer, purchased the Colson Canyon property about five years ago, ensuring that they would always be able to tap the most distinctive site. 

Perched high up at an elevation of 1,400 feet, the combination of warm days and cool nights produces dense, fruit-forward wines with opulent jamminess. The site covers 115 acres but has only 16 acres of grapes because the elevation and rugged terrain make so much of the site untamable. Tensley believes that only three more acres have the potential to be planted.

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Ynez Mountains Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County.'

"This wine always delivers juicy round seamless edges. This is the only wine we add some new French oak, as its weight and power integrates with the oak, adding a bit of toasty buttery complexity. Colson Canyon is such a beautiful example of fruit forward juicy California Syrah. Open it anytime and enjoy its blueberry, cassis and chocolate nuances or leave it 20 years and enjoy its leathery, almondy notes. It does not really matter when you open it, it will deliver."

1925 cases were produced.

This was awarded 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points by Wine Advocate, 95-97 points by Vinous, and 95 points by Wine Spectator.

Might I consider this the Tensley 'flagship'? This reminded me of a couple other memorable highly rated Syrahs that has been standouts - Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Vineyard and Penfolds Grange. Both are flawless, seamless, and notable for their smooth, polished, balanced profile. While not to that level of perfection perhaps, this is close and evokes the same experience. This bottle was from the Wine Club allocation we received from that visit. We're anxiously awaiting our fall release shipment that we're told was shipped this week.

We love this full throttle jammy rich fruit forward style of the 2020 Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah. Notably it has been recognized with four scores of 95 points or more.

We wrote about this wine in January and before that late last fall. Each time I gave it 94 Points.

Consistent with earlier notes - even better with BBQ ! Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/family-celebration-dinner-smoked-ribs.html

Earlier, last fall I wrote: "Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish." 

RM 94 Points

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/tensley-colson-canyon-vineyard-syrah.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

https://tensleywines.com/product/2020-colson-canyon-syrah/

https://twitter.com/tensleywine

@tensleywine

Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

 Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Cru Classe' Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

We discovered and experienced this wine as part to the Premium Wine Pairing at Three Michelin Star Alinea restaurant earlier in the year. The entire dinner and wine flight are featured in this blogpost - Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table. From that experience, son Ryan acquired this and brought to our Memorial Day afternoon cook-out dinner on the deck for casual summer sipping. 

The Ott family own and manage three estates in two appellations in the wine growing region of Provence that sits along the Mediterranean coast of France, bordered by the Rhone River to the west and the Cote d’Azur on the east. The three estates combined produce a somewhat miniscule 800,000 bottles each year. 

The family business is managed by cousins Christian and Jean-François Ott. In 2004, Domaines Ott joined Louis Roederer and its extensive selection of wine craftsmen.  Jean-François Ott and his team continues "the unique savoir-faire of four generations of artisan-vignerons in the complete respect of nature. Inspired by an unchanged mission since the creation of the Domaines by Marcel Ott in 1896, they have constantly pursued their unique and free vision of the expression of the terroirs of Provence." 

Founder Marcel Ott, a graduate in agricultural engineering from Alsace, toured France’s vineyards in search of the perfect estate. At the time, phylloxera had destroyed much of the region’s vineyards and nearly crippled the wine industry. Hence, land was inexpensive since many of the vineyards would need replanting. Undeterred, Ott found a site, Chateau de Selle in 1912. After acquiring the estate and completely renovating it, he reconstructed and replanted the vineyards. His passion and determination led to the acquisition of two more estates and the beginning of the Domaines Ott legacy.

Family Ott acquired Château Romassan in 1956. They then spent the next thirty years re-developing the property, gaining experience with the old Château Romassan to produce great wines typical of the Bandol AOC appellation. They entirely replanted the estate with noble grape varieties in small plots that were reorganized and leveled to create terraced vineyards. The superb 18th-century building overlooking the vineyard was also completely renovated. 

Château Romassan sits at the foot of the hilltop village Le Castellet, a few miles north of the City of and Bay of Bandol in the south of France. This estate is located in the west of the Var department, in the heart of the celebrated Bandol winemaking region. The Mediterranean climate and the poor limestone and sandstone soils produce deep savory wines.  

 We drove through the region and the area vineyards during our Rhone Wine Experience in 2019.

Mourvèdre is the region's and estate’s primary grape variety. Indigenous to the area, it is particularly suited to the arid climate and austere soil. Its calm temperament is revealed in the strength of its harmonies, its robust structure and its staying power both on the palate and in the cellar. Producer Otts rely on mourvèdre for the bulk of their rosé (this one includes 30 percent cinsault and 15 percent grenache). 

Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Cru Classe Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020

The 2020 Bandol Rose Château de Selle is mainly Mourvèdre (60%) with smaller proportions of Cinsault (20%), and Grenache (20%). Many vintages also contain small amounts of Syrah. The vines have an average age of 25 years across the 180 acres of the estate. The vines draw their personality from the vineyard’s unique and distinguished soil. Chalk, sandstone and marl underlain with gravel, this singular land with its sun-drenched and particularly dry micro-climate produces sophisticated and very powerful wines.

This is blended and bottled in the new Château de Selle cellar, where part of the winery is exclusively devoted to its production. The entire process is controlled from blending to through storage ensuring the highest achievable quality expected of these wines.

Winemaker Notes - "Its pale, ethereal pink color tinted with gold or orange, releases a bouquet of citrus fruits and white orchard flowers. On the palate, the immediate effect is lively and bright, revealing notes of pink grapefruit, fleshy fruit and, once the wine has had a chance to breathe, hints of fruit tart. The finish is complex and lasting.'

"This 2020 reveals a brilliant light peach hue and a lovely aromatic intensity. The nose is fresh and fruity with hints of peach and grapefruit. After aeration, aromas of white flesh fruits start to emerge and are set off by some fine spicy notes. The palate is complex and luscious, buoyed by flavours of citrus and wild peaches. A touch of acidity on the finish gives this big and refined wine a pleasant persistence."

The 2021 was awarded 96 points by Wine & Spirits. This 2020 was awarded 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Vinous and Wine Enthusiast.

Opaque pink and light copper colored, medium bodied, firm and structured, complex, bright crisp core of peach, mineral and citrus flavors with a backbone of notes of wet stone and smokey roasted nuts, turning to what Josh Reynolds of Vinous refers to as "a repeating mineral note and a late hint of tarragon", and what Robert Parker describes as "zesty-briny and stony on the finish" in their reviews of the '21. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956435

https://www.domaines-ott.com/en

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 23 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

 

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 2023 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

Our 'Pour Boys' wine group gathered prior to the Indy 500 race weekend in Chicago and were hosted by Lyle and Terry for their customary 'Winers & Diners' CityScape beef tenderloin dinner. 

As usual, it was a wonderful evening of friends and fellowship that included an extraordinary dinner and wine experience with a broad extensive selection of fabulous wines featuring some new labels and old cellar favorites. The gathering pulled together an extraordinary, spectacular selection of fine wines for the tasting - two rated 100 points and five rated 95 points or higher. 

The group were joined by 'Champagne John' who brought his customary spectacular sparklers, a pair of ultra-premium vintage labels, and Steve, who brought his usual ultra-premium vintage Borgogne. 

This year we were joined by newcomer Pour Boy, Tom C, who joined the Pour Boys in their traditional wine-pouring duties at the UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023 tasting in January. Tom and Lisa brought a trio of premium Borgogne Chardonnays.

Host and hostess Lyle and Terry prepared their usual extensive fabulous dinner with Lyle grilling scallops and beef tenderloins, accompanied with escalloped potatoes and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto.

 

 

 The Hor'd Ovres and starter courses before dinner included a broad selection of shrimp cocktail, grilled scallops, an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, with fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts, deviled eggs and more. The soup course included Vichysoiss with fresh baked biscuits. 

The Champagne course included a pair of vintage Billecart-Salmon vintage Champagnes brought by John, the  Elisabeth Salmon Cuvée 2008 and Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006. Ernie added a Veuve Clicquot Gold label.

Billecart-Salmon Champagnes

The Champagne House of Billecart-Salmon dates back to 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon were married, a family story from the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth, a talented oenologist, overseeing the creation of the wines. Continuing the family tradition for seven generations, they remain faithful to the motto: "Give priority to quality, strive for excellence".

The champagnes of Maison Billecart-Salmon are created from the estate of 240 acres, and sourcing grapes from an area totaling 750 acres across 40 crus of the Champagne region.

The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around the village of Epernay along the Marne River at the bottom of the Champagne region. There the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay flourish in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.

We toured the region and vineyards during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006. 

Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé Champagne 2008

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon “Cuvée Elisabeth” is named for the founder matriarch. This Rosé Champagne is made mostly from Grand Cru vineyards, but it is the 1'er Cru that goes into it that makes it so special. 

The blend includes about 10 percent red wine that gives this rosé its color that comes from a small plot of 80-year-old Pinot Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ called the Valofroy. This parcel, adjacent to the Clos des Goisses faces due south and directly down at the Marne. 

The production from this ancient site is the limiting factor for the production of this rare tête de cuvée. 

The wine is composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay to which is added the old vine Pinot red wine that makes up about 10% of the total that gives this wine its color.

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé was awarded 98 points by James Suckling and Decanter, 97 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous, 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 94 points by both Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Advocate says "the 2008 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is one of the finest wines I've tasted from Billecart in recent years."

Dark orange copper colored, full-bodied, silky texture and complex, super dry intense layered flavours of cherry, strawberry and nectarine with notes of clove and cinnamon spice on the long, elegant harmonious finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901361

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006

This is a unique classic single varietal Blanc de Noirs cuvée that bears the name of the Patron Saint of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This source Clos (vineyard) is a mere two acres that meets strict standards: a single, unbroken and enclosed plot planted like a garden in the middle of the Billecart property in Mareuil. The vines are all old massals that were planted in 1964. 

Only one press load of this 100% Pinot Noir was made for a total production of 3,700 bottles, the wine is completely barrel fermented, and dosed at just 2 grams per liter. This is a profound wine that ages 13 years on the lees  rendering immense concentration and power.  

Although it was disgorged in November 2020, winemaster Mathieu Roland Billecart held on and delayed the release, ageing post disgorgement that he cites "is just as important as that before it and sometimes overlooked".

The 2006 Billecart-Salmon "Le Clos Saint-Hilaire" Brut Blanc de Noirs Champagne was awarded 98 points by Vinous, 95 points by Wine Advocate, and 93 points by Decanter.

Vinous writes, "The 2006 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is fabulous. In this radiant year, the Clos Saint-Hilaire has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and generosity, but that’s a good thing, as it balances some of the more austere leanings that can make young vintages hard to appreciate upon release. Apricot, lemon confit, ginger, graphite, spice and crushed rocks are strands in a gorgeous, captivating tapestry that dazzles right out of the gate. The precision here is just mind-blowing. Billecart's 2006 Clos Saint-Hilaire is a very special Champagne."

Golden rust colored, full-bodied, powerful, layered and vinous,  complex, concentrated, muscular with aromas of pear and plum, dried red cherry fruits, hints of brioche and nuts and spices with racy acids on a long, finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4209557

https://www.champagne-billecart.fr/en

Dan brought a pair of dessert wines for the cheese and salad course, a Sauterne Premiere Grand Cru Classe, and a label Yellow Muscat he acquired and brought from Slovenia.

Château Rabaud-Promis Premiere Gran Cru Classe 2009 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend

The Rabaud-Promis castle lies opposite Chateau d'Yquem on the hill Rabaud and dates back to the late eighteenth century. The estate vineyards dating back to the birth of Sauterne surround the house on the gentle slopes. 

Premier cru classified in 1855, Chateau Rabaud-Promis was bought in 1950 by Louis Raymond Lanneluc. Today, the property is family managed by Michele and Philippe Dejean and his son Thomas, representing the 9th generation of winemakers in Sauternes.

Winemaker Notes - Full and intense, this vintage envelops you in its aromas of honeyed yellow fruit, apricot jam, quince paste, exotic fruit with a hint of lemon balm.

This was rated 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93points by Wine Spectator.

Dark golden colored full bodied, rich, thick and unctuous with intense bouquet and flavors of pear, zesty orange and peach and with spicy honey and roasted nut on a persistent long acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=894124

Rodica Truške, Istria, Slovenia Rumeni (Yellow) Muscat 2016 

Dr Dan acquired this wine traveling to the region and brought back to share with our wine group.

From the Producer - "The Rodica Family Organic Winery is located in the heart of Slovenian Istria, in the village of Truške near Marezige above Koper. The wine cellar lies on top of a hill overlooking the sea of the Gulf of Trieste and the unspoiled nature of the Dragonja River. The vineyards are spread on the southern slopes of the Istrian hills at an altitude of 250 to 350 m. We cultivate 60,000 vines on 15 hectares, planted mainly with indigenous varieties of Refosco, Malvasia, and Yellow Muscat, as well as others, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Pinot Gris'. 

"The lands on which we have planted our vines were abandoned and overgrown for the past 50 years. Planted in poor, shallow soil, the vines grow modestly. By showing great respect for nature, thus, we grow great-tasting, healthful grapes from which we produce healthful and strong wines that reflect the character of our wine-growing district."

From US Distributor Vinum - "In 1998, Marinko Rodica, a car mechanic by trade, decided to start a new chapter in his life and became a winemaker. 10 years later, in 2008 Rodica family winery had sixty thousand vines and was certified organic. The brand new environmentally friendly and energy efficient wine cellar was completed in 2012. None of this would be possible without Marinko’s vision and passion and the support of his entire family. Today, Rodica estate organically farms 15 hectars of vineyards, with most of them planted with Malvasia and Refošk.:

Classification: Sweet white wine 

Varietals: 100% Rumeni Muskat (yellow muscat) 

Appellation: Truške, Istria, Slovenia 

Annual Production: 5,000 bottles 

Climate: Mild Mediterranean, with dry and hot summers, and mild winters. 

Terrain: The picturesque hills near Marezige and Truške are located 5 km from the Adriatic sea, more specifically the Gulf of Trieste. Rodica family vineyards are planted at 250-350 meters asl, terraced, facing South. They enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, constant breezes, which keeps the vineyards well-ventilated and naturally healthy for organic farming. The soil is rich with minerals, consisting predominantly of limestone. The vines are forced to “fight” to get water, which results in better quality grapes. 

Vinification: After de-stemming the grapes are macerated with the pulp and skins for just a few hours and spontaneous fermentation begins. The wine is then transferred into stainless steel tanks where it continues controlled fermentation process. Matured for 6 months in 2,500-liter acacia barrels and bottled unfiltered.

Tasting Notes: From Merchant MrDWine - "Our favorite Slovenian sweet wine, period! This wine combines the typical floral, honeyed lemon peel aromatics of yellow muscat with gorgeous acidity and earthiness. It offers so much more than a regular sweet wine. Beautiful pine notes on the nose, light freshness and mineral texture on the palate. Enjoy chilled with not-so-sweet desserts, or just by itself."

Note - This label was not listed among the nearly 5 million labels in Cellartracker. I added it to the collection. Its hard and rare to find a label not already listed in their massive database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4668723

https://www.rodica.si/en

For the transition from sweet wines and Champagne to the whites, Ernie brought this 2017 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc. 

 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc 2017  

This is an exotic dry white wine that could be considered the 'second wine' of famed ultra-premium producer Château d'Yquem.

This is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. 80% of the blend was aged in used Yquem barrels with 20% new oak.

This release was rated 98 points by James Suckling, 95 by points Wine Spectator, 94 by points Decanter, 92 points by Vinous, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson, the same she gave to the grand vin.

Light silver straw colored, full bodied, crisp, seductive, exotic dry white with dense rich notes of tropical fruits - peach, mango, pineapple, yellow apple and lemon peel, with fine acidity on the smooth balanced finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3095929

 

With the salads and soup course we enjoyed this trio of  Michel Colin-Deleger  Chassagne-Montrachet Burgundies brought by Tom and Lisa.

Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2015

From the original domaine located in Chassagne-Montrachet, founded in 1950, Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger was created in 1987 by Michel Colin-Deléger, the nephew of the great Georges Deléger. 

Michel Colin inherited part of the Chevenottes vineyard, combining it with holdings from the Colin family’s domaine. The 2015 vintage was Michel's last, as he finally retired after a stellar career in which he vinified some of the most esteemed climats of the Côte de Beaune.

Michel semi-retired in 2003, passing on his vineyard holdings to sons Philippe and Bruno Colin. Until his full retirement twelve years later in 2015, he continued to farm three small parcels, producing just a handful of barrels per year: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. 

Though the quantities were small, the mature master vigneron produced Chardonnay’s that represented the domaine's greatest terroirs. All three vineyards are within a stone’s throw of one another, with En Remilly just around the corner on the south side of Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny Les Demoiselles on the northern edge of Le Montrachet. 

Michel Colin-Deléger continues to works with his sons, Philippe and Bruno to produce a notable portfolio of premium white wines.

Colin-Deleger owns nearly 50 acres of vineyards in the vicinity of Chassagne-Montrachet. These include the well-known Le Demoiselle, Puligny Premiers Crus La Tryufer, battery-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet, from a crop from which the farm produce great wines with a fruity aroma and complex, full-bodied taste.

Currently Michel Colin is almost retired, handing the business over to the sons, but continues to control a limited edition wines of the most valuable vineyards - Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus An Remiyi and Puligny-Montrachet Premiers Crus Les Demoiselle .  

Distributor notes -  Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly has a brilliant yellow-gold visual aspect. Its nose is expressive, exhaling floral aromas with light buttery notes. There is beautiful substance on the palate, with a light richness and fairly marked acidity.

Pale straw coloredm medium bodied, concentrated, almost rich flavors of delicate peach, pear and a touch of lemon, white stone fruits with hint of sweetness.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2585993

The interim pivot to the 'big reds' was filled by Steve's classic Vosne-Romanée Burgundy.

Domaine François Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 2014

Of course, the commune in the Côte-d'Or department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté produces the region's, perhaps the world's most celebrated wines, all made entirely from the Pinot Noir grape.

While the appellation is known for the dynastic monopoly of four of the six grandest of grand crus, the village has at least forty growers that also comprise and share its vineyards. The wines produced from the vineyards are diverse but generally considered to be rich, silky and well balanced, with a complexity which surpasses many of the other wines of Burgundy. 

Wines from the famous village include several renowned premier cru level producers, aside the villages sensational and legendary six grand crus: Romanée-Conti, La Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and La Grande Rue. 

While the Premiers Crus do not command the same prices as their grand cru neighbours, the village is home to many outstanding premier cru wines. Besides the legendary plots, the top vineyards include Les Gaudichots, Les Malconsorts, Les Suchots, Cros Parantoux, Les Chaumes, and Clos des Réas.  

A stand-alone Pinot Noir, this was one of the standouts of the evening with bright vibrant, elegant and harmonious fruits, although Steven had to pinch himself as he couldn't believe I was saying so!

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, aromas and flavors fresh bright vibrant strawberry, cherry and slighter subdued fruits of blackberry, accented by notes of spice and hints of tobacco and leather finishing with elegant smooth polished fine tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2750048

We then moved to the entree course of beef tenderloin and the Bordeaux varietal reds. 

We invariably spend time at the beginning of each evening, setting up the tasting, sampling the wines so as to serve them properly in order, from lighter to heavier or bolder. The placement occurs and then is fine tuned throughout the evening as the wines open up and reveal their character and profiles. 

It was through this tuning that the St Estephe revealed itself and moved up front of the other Bordeaux, showing itself to be especially approachable and elegantly polished. 

Château Cos d' Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 2009

I started to write that this stand-out wine emerged as one of the stars of the evening, but then when I researched its rating and ranking, I realized that it was wholly noted and recognized to be deserving of such. Leave it to John to produce a (not-so) hidden gem of the evening. 

The ever modest John noted that this vintage release showed as well as the legendary 2005 vintage, and he was right on.  

Ernie and I reminisced about the impressive majestic and commanding Château with its gates overlooking the bages (right) as one turns the corner on the road climbing the hill into Saint Estephe from Pauillac. 

We were both visiting the region during the time that Château Lynch Bages was under construction, and we were directed to visit the Château de Pez estate immediately opposite Cos d'Estournel. In fact, Ernie ended staying there at the Château during his visit. 

The 2009 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe was ranked 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Advocate. It also received 98 points by James Suckling, and 97 points by Wine Spectator. 

This is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Dark deep inky garnet colored, full-bodied, while massive on the palate, it's elegance and flawless polish and balanced presented a remarkably approachable pleasurable drinking wine, plum, red currant and blackberry fruits with classic Saint-Estèphe notes of dried tobacco, creosote, earthy spices, and licorice with subtle graphite on silky smooth plush tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and very spicy.

Clearly this was the best, and most memorable Cos I have ever tasted from the dozen or so vintages that I have had. I'll relish my collection with more reverence, and attention, going forward.

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874488

https://www.estournel.com/en/

Ernie telegraphed he was bringing an 'older' Lynch Bages (1993), so I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage from the spectacular 1990 vintage to compare. Lyle rounded out the mini-vertical with a recent release. 

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bodeaux, 1990, 1993, and 2018

As mentioned, Ernie and I jousted with our reminiscences of visiting the Château and estate vineyards on the outskirts of the commune of Pauillac during about the same time.

We've both served Lynch Bages at the UGCB event and hold a vertical collection of the label spanning (more than) three decades. Indeed, I am hold a large double magnum of the label from the early nineties of
which we need to find a suitable occasion at which to serve.

1990 Lynch-Bages Pauillac 

I violated one of my normal tenants and brought from our collection a birth-year vintage wine from son Alec's birthyear collection, holding for a family event.

I found this wine probably at its apex, the height of its drinking window, and likely to start to diminish from age from this point forward.  It was ideal to pair and compare with the other vintage (s). As one of the oldest vintages, I triple decanted this, allowing it to open, and it showed remarkably well from the outset.

From a spectacular vintage, this is another spectacular showing wine, this was awarded a near perfect 99 points by Wine Advocate. It also was awarded 96 points by Vinous, 94 points by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by Int'l Wine Cellar. I should also note that Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 points on her 20 point scale. I should then note that I personally find her twenty point scale more logical, rationale and easier to manage, but the pack has taken commanded and the industry has subscribed to the 100 point model.  

Robert Parker wrote, "This magnificent Lynch Bages has been drinking well since the day it was released and it continues to go from strength to strength. The biggest, richest, fullest-bodied Lynch Bages until the 2000, the fully mature 1990 exhibits an unbelievably explosive nose of black currants, cedarwood, herbs and spice. The majestic, classically Bordeaux aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, voluptuously textured, rich, intense wine with superb purity as well as thrilling levels of fruit, glycerin and sweetness."

On the same vintage Vinous writes, "The 1990 Lynch-Bages remains the towering Pauillac it has always been, even if Jean-Michel Cazes personally prefers the 1989. It has a riveting, graphite-infused bouquet that is brilliantly defined, very focused and sharp as a razor-blade. Poured directly against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this Fifth Growth beats it hands down. ...  this is an aristocratic Lynch-Bages with impressive grip after 28 years (in 2019)."

Note the price I paid on release of this wine back in early nineties. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of tar, herbs, spice, black tea, leather and hints of cedar, turning to silky tannins on a long, long finish. Probably a bit past its prime but still showing well.

RM 92 points. 

Its a bit remarkable that this label has a 'three digit' number out of the millions of labels now registered with Cellartracker in their vast database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=451

1993 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

This release was awarded 91 points by Wine Advocate and  90 points by Int'l Wine Cellar.

Classic Pauillac Lynch Bages profile, dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, blackberry and black plum briary fruits with earthy leather and smoky, cigar box, spice, cedar, anise and black tea notes on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=31772

https://twitter.com/lynch_bages 

@lynch_bages

Dan brought a Chateau Pichon (Longueville Comtesse) Lalande, so Lyle pulled from his cellar a vintage release to compare.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 & 2014

Two more spectacular wines. These were both markedly tight and somewhat closed, perhaps, and likely in that awkward interim period of aging, needing a couple more years to open and reveal their native character and profile. Great to try and interesting tasting of one of my favorite labels and a typically classic long lived Bordeaux wine.  

This is one of my absolute favorite labels. Touring the grounds of the Château estate and vineyards was one of the highlights of our trip to the appellation in 2019. (below) 

Château Pichon Lalande 2010 

Another blockbuster wine with giant ratings, the 2010 Pichon-Lalande was also awarded 100 points by Decanter, 98 points by Vinous, 96 points and "Cellar Selection" (one for long term aging) by Wine Enthusiast, and 95 points by Wine Spectator. This is why we do tastings and make note of how they are aging at various stages of their life! 

One Cellartracker wrote in spring of 2013, "Too young to drink now, need years of further cellaring to show its deep potential." He gave it 96 points!

Decanter wrote, "For me this is getting better as it ages, starting to rival the 1982 at Comtesse, and I can't wait to keep tasting it over the decades to come. Last time I rated this wine, in 2016, I gave it 98 points, and I questioned whether to keep it there, which is already an exceptional score, but I want to mark just how clearly it stood out in this horizontal. (1/2020)

Vinous called it "An eternal wine, a total showstopper. The first impression is one of explosive power, but time in the glass brings out the wine’s more delicate, floral side. Violet, graphite, crème de cassis, licorice and menthol overtones recall the 1996.

Wine Enthusiast writes that "a stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than in the past, making it more structured than its predecessors, with a dominance of black currant flavor"

Classic Pichon Lalande tasting profile, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm, tight and a bit closed surpressing that complex concentrated yet elegant and polished black fruit with notes of black tea, cassis, graphite and tobacco leaf with hints of truffle and anise on a firm lingering structured tannin finish. 

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1128959

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2014

Ditto the comments on the 2010 above, very similar state, the   2014 Pichon-Lalande got monster ratings, awarded 97 points by Vinous, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points and Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points, Wine Spectator, and 93 points by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.  

Vinous says "the 2014 Pichon Comtesse might very well be the wine of the vintage on the Left Bank."

Dunnuck wrote: "deeply colored (especially in the vintage) and delivers a heavenly bouquet of crème de cassis, ripe plums, graphite, cedar pencil, roasted coffee, and tons of building minerality and liquid rock-like nuances. Incredibly pure, textured, full-bodied, and with a seamless integration of its fruit, tannin, and acidity, it’s already approachable but will keep for two to three decades."

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "It looks likely the wine will develop slowly, so don't drink before 2025."

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic Pauillac black fruits with Crème de cassis, licorice, lavender, licorice and sweet spices with notes of cedar and graphite turning to velvety-textured tannins on a long and flavorful finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2075299

https://twitter.com/PichonComtesse/ 

@PichonComtesse

Bill projected he was going to bring a Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, one of our favorites. Having just opened this label for my birthday dinner, the 2002, I was anxious to try another vintage, so I pulled from our cellar an aged vintage release to share and compare.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 & 2013

Bill and I have enjoyed a dozen vintages of this label over the years and still hold as many in our cellars. We've visited the Robert Craig estate up on Howell Mountain on numerous occasions including the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party 2009  (with Robert, right).

I couldn't resist but to bring this aged vintage inaugural release of this legendary Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It was the 1994 release that Wine Spectator recognized in an article back then citing the vintage and noting Robert Craig as an up and coming producer to watch!. We were hooked and started collecting his wines and notably hold every vintage since of at least one of his labels. And, its time to drink them, so, tonight was an ideal occasion to open this classic label with folks that would appreciate it.

1994 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon  

Like the aged vintage Lynch Bages above, I also triple decanted this bottle as well. 

While showing its age and some diminution of the fruit and slight brickish coloring,  it was still in its drinking window and a notable pairing and comparison with the same label, and similarly aged vintage releases of the evening. This is what these broad tastings are all about, sharing and comparing such labels and releases!

This release got 90 points from both Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, both reviewed upon release back in 1997.  

Dark blackish purple garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex and concentrated Howell Mountain profile of black currant fruits with hints of classic clove and cinnamon spices, notes of anise, leather and lead pencil and a bit of cedar on a lingering tannin finish. 

RM 90 points.  

 2013 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 

Winemaker notes ; "2013 was the perfect example of the stark differences between mountain and valley vineyards in Napa. While valley floor yields were up 15-20% overall, Howell Mountain was down 5%*. Why such a difference? The valley saw mild weather during flower and fruit set, while the mountain had cool, very windy conditions. The result was small, loose clusters with tremendous structure, concentration and acid backbone."

Winemaker notes - While 2012 was a classic vintage for Howell Cabernet, 2013 raised the bar. Fruit complexity is off the charts, with stunning acid and tannin backbone. This wine, having spent two years in barrel and an additional year in bottle is showing lovely, lush fruit in its youth, with classic Howell bramble-berry fruit character framed by coffee, mineral and deep, dark, mountain violet tones. Patience, however, will prove to be a virtue: this wine will only get better with age. Cellar now for future rewards. 

"The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mt has an inky purple color that is certainly as saturated as any in the impressive Robert Craig lineup. This is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot with similar elevage as the other wines. Beautifully sweet tannin, whole berry, blackberry and graphite notes are present in this full-bodied, opulent, delicious Howell Mt Cabernet Sauvingon. The color is an opaque purple, the wine expansive, savory and impressive. Drink it over the next 20 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 12/30/15

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=49569

https://robertcraigwine.com/

https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine 

@RobertCraigWine

 

Diamond Creek Napa Valley Red Rock Terrace Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Bill brought another spectacular label from a legendary producer. We Pour Boys have visited the Diamond Creek estate on Diamond Mountain on numerous occasions including when our group, Dan, Bill and we attended the vintage release tour there in 2015 (shown left and below). These are chronicled in these blog postings: 

Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Diamond Creek Vineyards

 Diamond Creek Open House 2015 Release Tasting

As above, we just recently opened a family birth year vintage of this same label from this same producer for a family birthday celebration recently, so I was eager to try this release as a comparison. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/04/family-easter-and-birthday-celebration.html

Al and Boots Brounstein founded Diamond Creek Vineyards in 1968. Al Brounstein was one of the first to produce Bordeaux varietals in the Napa Valley Mountains back in the 1970's. He was so captivated by the terroir of his Diamond Mountain property, from the beginning he bottled each vineyard separately as its own designated label. He was one of the first to do so, to recognize and memorialize each vineyard thusly.

The three vineyards Brounstein planted have produced some of the most long-lived, elegant wines from the state of California, wines that make the case "that Diamond Creek is the finest producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in America," according to wine writer Pierre DuMont. 

This is from a seven-acre section of the vineyard estate, Red Rock Terrace is a warm micro-climate on the lower reaches of the mountain, below the fog line and protected from the winds that sweep up from the San Pablo Bay, or in from the Pacific. It is seven acres of iron-rich, north-facing vineyard on Diamond Mountain. 

This vintage label release was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator, 93 points by Wine Enthusiast. and 92 points by Vinous.

Winemaker Notes: Our winemaker describes Red Rock Terrace as "having velvety tannins, rich and well balanced, medium dark ruby color with cherry, mint and black currant flavors."

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, pure, bright expressive black and red currant fruits with notes of earth, black licorice, anise and hints of cedar turning to silky smooth polished tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1622908

Pivoting between the Bordeaux varietals and the desserts, Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select, full bore Aussie Shiraz wine from his cellar.

Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

We, the Pour Boys, discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's colorful principle, Dagmar O'Neill. 

Only 100 cases were produced. We manipulated/orchestrated a purchase of eight three packs in OWC's (original wood cases), which was the entire allocation shipped to mid-America, which we split amongst the wine team, pictured in this blogspot feature.

Taking stock around the table, this was Bill's last bottle of that acquisition, Dan's is gone, and Ernie and I still hold one bottle each in our cellars.

Bill's notes from a tasting back in 2014 - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite, minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."

And then again in 2018, "Almost 4 years exactly since I last tried this and still spectacular with plenty of life still left. Deep, opaque, indigo color. Berry and a bit of smoke on the nose. If anything, some of the roughness of the spice has diminished ( but not by much), to be augmented by sweet, blackberry and raspberry fruit. Spectacular!"

WCC 96 points. 

Tonight, while this was a bit more subdued at fifteen years of age, its still a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue. 

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and spice and spicy oak.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

https://twitter.com/ChateauTanunda

@ChateauTanunda

Terry and Lyle served up their traditional medley of desserts including Terry's decadent Orange Cake, and Chocolate Profiteroles with fresh berries and whipped cream. 

Ernie pulled out his signature ultra-premium Château d'Yquem Sauterne from his extensive broad vertical collection of the label that spans several decades.

To accompany the wine he brought a selection of carefully selection artisan cheeses, drizzles and roasted nuts, to showcase the wine. These were superb in a terrific pairing. 

Château d'Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend Sauterne 2007

A special treat, as usual, this wine was exquisite, a spectacular pairing iwth the dessert and specially selected cheeses. This is 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, carefully selected from the most ardent and rigorous viticulture and harvesting. 

When picking, they may pass through the vineyards more than two dozen times, in the middle of the night, when cool, to carefully hand select grape by grape, only those at perfect ripeness and brix (sweetness) levels to add to the blend.

This release was awarded 98 points by Wine Advocate. 96 points by Wine Spectator, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson.

Distributor notes: "Exquisite. Presents a lovely amber colour, reminiscent of a golden sunset. The nose is an intoxicating blend of honey and apricots, a bouquet that is mirrored in its taste. Additional layers of complexity are revealed through notes of caramel, vanilla, and a hint of spice, adding depth to the honeyed apricot core. The wine is beautifully balanced, with a vibrant acidity that cuts through the sweetness, leading to a long, luscious finish. It's a wine that truly engages all the senses, leaving a lasting impression. Drinking very well already."

Deep orange golden colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich unctuous and elegantly smooth with notes of dried pineapple, candied honey mango and apricot, hints of grapefruit and lemon on a tongue coating finish. 

RM 96 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=502174

https://twitter.com/Yquem_Official 

@Yquem_Official 

As a closer with the chocolates and cheeses, I had this aged Vintage Port open at home from the other evening and brought it to share.

Guenoc & Langtry Estate Vineyards and Winery, Guenoc Valley Estate Vintage Port 2000

I served a bottle of Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon at our Pour Boys OTBN tasting dinner back in 2014. 

This is from the Lily Langtree Estate, the hollywood silent screen actress from early last century. That's her period photo that adorns the label. 

The Guenoc Estate Winery & Vineyards are in Lake County, over the hill and on the back of Napa Valley Howell Mountain to the north and east.

We visited the estate back in the early nineties and acquired some Cabernets, one of which I served from a large format bottle at a special event a decade later, exceeding my expectations.

Lillie Langtry, was a famous actress and socialite during the 19th century. She was born on the British Island of Jersey in 1853 and was the only daughter of seven children of the Dean of Jersey. Although she never received a formal education, Lillie went on to have a successful acting career. She starred in many plays in England and the United States. 

In 1888, Lillie purchased 4,200 acres of land in California that would become Langtry Farms where she raised horses and founded the Langtry Farms Winery that is still in operation to this day. She set out to craft the world’s finest claret from the grapes grown at the highest elevation of her farm. During that time, she resided at the Langtry House which is still operating today, available for private events.

According to the rear label, this is from the Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Reserve Estate Vineyard. 

They still offer this label on their website dating back to the 1994 vintage. The 1994 Guenoc Valley Port is made from Petite Sirah with a touch of Petit Verdot added to "lend elegance and subtle tones of blueberry and spice." The 1999 Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Petite Sirah Port is crafted from Petite Sirah grapes.

I was intrigued when I saw this bottle on auction back then and acquired it. It has been sitting in our cellar for more than a decade and I opened it last week on a whim. Once again, it exceeded my expectations and was worthy of pairing with our desserts this evening. 

Wine Enthusiast rated this 94 points. 

I posted a tasting note about this label back in 2011, probably shortly after acquiring a couple bottles.  My note from then: "Great paired with cheese cake, fresh strawberry and chocolate fondue dessert. Full bodied - black and deep purple color - taste of brandy, black berry, black raspberry, deep blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and black cherry, sweetness a nice complement to the dessert - would be great with a stilton cheese."

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=54302

https://langtryfarms.com/wine/