Special Wines for Gala Thanksgiving Family Dinner
We were blessed to have the entire family gathered together for a traditional gala Thanksgiving Family Dinner, complete with turkey and all the trimmings; dressing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, corn casserole, salad, with pecan and pumpkin pies and iced cream for dessert.
With the recent arrival of our twelfth grandchild, our core group now includes twenty-two!
I had pulled from the cellar an extensive wine flight with Sparkling White Methode Champonaise, a medley of whites, reds and dessert wines. Ryan brought several ultra-premium labels including two extraordinary limited release 100 point labels, and one of our favorite vintage premium Bordeaux.
We were then visited by dear friend Jared Gelband, who dropped in and brought a premium Super Tuscan. Readers of these pages know Jared as wine director at Italian Village Restaurant in Chicago. We’ve featured special dinners at Chicago’s oldest continuously operated family Italian Restaurant many times in these pages, where Jared’s manages a sensational ten thousand bottle Wine Spectator Award winning wine cellar there.
As is our custom, we started with a Methode Champonaise sparkling white wine.
Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Sparkling Wine
https://www.cellartracker.com/w?13645
We then did a medley of premium whites, followed by a flight of spectacular reds. :
Desparada Epione Moretti Canyon Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley) 2022
This is from winemaker and owner
Vailia From, who draws on nearly three decades of experience working harvests, restaurant floors, importer relationships, and brokerages. She produces lively Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, and Italian varietal-based wines in and around several
amphorae, (twelve and counting), concrete, acacia, and French oak.
Vailia sources fruit from Desparda’s estate vineyard, Chelle Mountain, and 20+ of the California Central Coast’s finest vineyards.
"An up and coming star in the Central Coast”, writes Jeb Dunnuck in the Wine Advocate, the wines of Desparada “deliver serious depth and richness while staying pure, classy and very drinkable.”
This premium Sauvignon Blanc is from Moretti Canyon Vineyard in the Central Coast region of California, Edna Valley, located south of San Luis Obispo.
The Edna Valley was the first AVA to be granted in 1982 in San Luis Obispo County. It is unique for its terroir and long growing season.
Covering 35 square miles, the clearly defined valley is bordered by the Santa Lucia Mountains along the northeast side, low hills to the south and the San Luis Range along the southwest. Moretti Canyon Vineyard runs east into the Diablo Range, which shields it from the brunt of the marine winds coming from the north. A gap to the northeast opens into the Los Osos Valley, which meets the ocean at Morro Bay. It is this gap that funnels morning fog in the summer and brisk breezes every afternoon from the ocean into Edna Vally, creating its cool climate and long growing season.
The Moretti Canyon Vineyard covers 42 acres and enjoys mild temperatures that allow the vines to produce large berries of juicy fruit.
It was planted in 1999 by proprietor Barbara Baggett who sold the grapes are sold to Tolosa, a custom crush facility she co-owned with Courtside Cellars whose first vintage of Tolosa wine was produced at the facility in 1998. Tolosa was named after the Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, which is dedicated to Saint Louis, Bishop of Toulouse in France. They continue to this day producing a portfolio of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays sourced from vintners across Edna Valley.
This 2022 release was rated 94 points by Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, and CellarTrackers give it a composite 93 points.
Reviewer Matt Kettmann writes - “Energetic aromas of grass clippings, lime peels and rainy sidewalk zip across the racy nose of this bottling from vines planted more than 20 years ago. The palate is lively and super chalky, offering more lime and grass flavors as well as an appealing hint of underripe pineapple.”
Straw colored, medium bodied, complex, full and round for a Sauvignon Blanc, bright vibrant, expressive citrus fruits offset by hints of pineapple zest and chalky minerality.
RM 91 points.
2022 Epione Sauvignon Blanc
Moving to the reds …
Summer Dreams “Super Chill” Pinot Noir 2021
We then turned to this unique limited release Pinot Noir from Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast.
This is the project of legendary veteran winemaker
Jayson Woodbridge whose 25-year winemaking career has been primarily focused on Bordeaux varietals in the Napa Valley under the Hundred Acre label and the recipient of more than 61, 100-point scores. Over the last decade he turned to the unique soils and extreme conditions of the West Sonoma Coast to create site specific vineyard driven wines working with
luminary winemakers – most notably St Helena-based Philippe Melka, one of our favorites.
Woodbridge’s ability to make fine wine and understand the importance of terroir, with his fortune earned as an investment banker, enabled him to purchase vineyard land in good locations. He managed it very well and produced consistently high-quality grapes to make his Hundred Acre wines.
Setting his sights on Sonoma County and the Sonoma Coast, he selected prime hillside vineyard sites, chosen for the generous slope, unique sequence of Goldridge soils, ranging from 900-1900 feet above sea level, and microclimate to add dimension to the wines. A rare, fine-grained sandy loam, Goldridge soils are known for excellent drainage, and a characteristically light and fluffy texture. The coastal climate of the region is marked by warm, dry summers and cool, damp winters.
We toured the area during our Pour Boys 2017 Sonoma Napa Wine Experience, starting on the Sonoma Coast and worked east along the Russian River Valley ending up in Sonoma Valley.
Woodbridge works with winemaker Ashley Holland whose career has spanned California and Oregon, as well as Australia, New Zealand, and Uruguay, working with noted winemakers Bill Price, Bob Cabral, and Ryan Prichard.
Ashley and Jayson explored over a hundred vineyards before selecting vineyards with site, slope, Goldridge soils, and vine age as their primary qualifiers.
The Sonoma Coast AVA extends from San Pablo Bay to the border with Mendocino County. Established in 1987, the Sonoma Coast AVA is the largest AVA within Sonoma County. It encompasses nearly 500,000 acres and is known for its cool climate and high rainfall relative to other parts of Sonoma County. The region spans up to 20 miles inland from the Pacific coastline. Close to the Pacific, with more than twice the annual rainfall of its inland neighbors, it's warm enough to ripen wine grapes because most vineyards are above the fog line, typically ranging from 400 to 1,800 feet in elevation. The terroir is best suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which benefit from the region's cool temperatures and
direct exposure to marine influences.
The Summer Dreams Wines estate is the former historic Petersen Ranch (Petersen dairy), located in the far reaches of Sonoma with a very large hill, almost like a tower, and hidden on one side of the wind-swept hill, amongst old oak trees. On the site is an old quarry where a small rail line used to move giant blocks of granite all the way from the Summer Dreams Ranch to the town of Sonoma.
The 96-acre property currently consists of 7.5 planted acres in the northern section of the ranch on a gently sloped hillside consisting of prized Goldridge and Osos Sandy Loams soil. Half of the vines are planted to Chardonnay and half to Pinot Noir.
The combination of prized Goldridge soil and the cooling breeze of the Petaluma wind gap makes this an ideal site within the Sonoma Coast AVA to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Winemaker notes - “Opens with a cool note of white pepper that sits atop a medley of high-toned red fruits, including vibrant cranberry, delicate strawberry, and ripe cherry. On the palate, the wine soars effortlessly, enhanced by a seamless oak undertone that frames notes of red berry compote and hints of savory spice. The resulting palate profile is both refreshing and refined, with a long and elegant finish that leaves you feeling “irie” and chill.”
This release was rated 96 points by Lisa Peretti-Brown of the Wine Independent.
Medium ruby-purple colored, the 2022 Super Chill Pinot Noir comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of violets, anise, and fertile loam, giving way to a core of blackberries and black cherries, plus a touch of garrigue. The medium to full-bodied palate is surprisingly graceful and savory, structured with very fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and fragrant.
Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, polished, vibrant sweet, ripe black raspberry and black cherry fruits with notes of floral, hints of anise and garrigue, with a smooth lingering finish.
RM 94 points.
https://summerdreamswines.com/Ryan brought from his home cellar this highly allocated super ultra-premium cult label, “Antikythera” that he has recently been able to obtain having finally graduated from the waiting list to wine club member.
Antica Terra "Antikythera" Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2021
The Antikythera Pinot Noir is crafted entirely from the small rocky Antica Terra estate vineyard in the northernmost part of the Eola-Amity Hills. It’s the only pinot from a vineyard that Antica Terra owns outright, planted in 1988.
The producer notes about this wine, “like the site, is a bit of an anomaly — it tends to defy characterization. There is, in every vintage, an astonishingly extreme, high-pitched aroma of cinnamon-stick coupled with a non-fruit intensity and Barolo-like tannin that speak neither to the Willamette Valley nor in some ways, pinot noir. Intensely mineral, it bears, somehow, a seemingly synesthetic resemblance to the ground from which it was born.”
The notion of No Compromise is on the wall at Antica Terra, and it was stencilled over the doorway at Sine Qua Non; to Harrison, it means, ‘keep your head down and make the most beautiful thing you can at that moment.’
Like so many exquisite, highly rated wines, this is notable for its perfection with lack of errors or flaws.
This limited release label was rated 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 97 points by James Suckling and Vinous, and 95 points by Decanter.
Bright Ruby colored, medium to full bodied, refined, silky smooth, superbly balanced, polished and elegant, black and red raspberry fruits with notes of violets, wet stones, fresh herbs and spices, smooth polished fine tannins on a long finish
RM 95 points.
https://anticaterra.com/
Ovid Hexameter 2017
This is from iconic Napa Valley producer, OVID (Publius Ovidius Naso), named for a roman poet who lived from 43 bc until 17 ad., best known for his most famous work, Metamorphoses, “a poetic retelling of the Greek myths, celebrating the themes of transformation and change.”
The producer describes this wine - “The name Hexameter is derived from the poetic meter used by Ovid in his Metamorphoses and, for that matter, in much Greek and Roman epic poetry. The concept of meter intrigues us, as meter contains, animates and organizes the information contained by a poem’s words. Transposed to wine, the vineyard is the impulse behind a poem, and the wine its meter and language. As such, the wine Hexameter reveals a certain rhythm and structure in our vineyard that articulates its clear and profound affinity for Cabernet Franc.”
This label started as part of an ‘Experiment’ and became a flagship wine. Hexameter is Cabernet Franc-focused, an intriguing Franc-centric wine, refined honing the best blocks within the vineyard.
While Cabernet Franc is a genetic parent to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it possesses unique and compelling qualities. Compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc tends to be a bit lighter in body, more floral and perfumed, and sometimes a tad more wild and unpredictable. In Bordeaux, it is an essential component of the blend to add depth, breadth and spice. Its profile makes Cabernet Franc incredibly sensitive to place; and therefore is a representation of terroir. For that reason, the Hexameter label is produced to showcase the distinction of Ovid estate Pritchard Hill vineyard with soil is largely characterized by its shallow, stony and luminous red soils (reflective of powerful amounts of iron oxide).
Following primary fermentation, Hexameter wines are removed from tank and placed into barrel. A few months later, the wines are racked and blended and returned to barrel for a long, slow maturation in French oak for another 14-16 months.
Hexameter is a classic Bordeaux Blend of some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot in small proportions, but focused on Cabernet Franc to take the lead.
Winemaker Austin Peterson contends that if OVID hadn’t been squarely established initially with Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery’s identity today might be centered around Cabernet Franc, due to “the way it grows in the vineyards and performs in winery and in bottle”, exemplifying and showcasing the terroir of the estate.
Producer notes on the vintage - “The 2017 vintage marked the end of an unusually long drought. Rains drenched our hill and set the stage for a vibrant and verdant spring. Budbreak repeated an early start to the season, pushing out in late March. Spring warmed the tender buds and brought on a temperate summer. Careful preparation and late summer heat led to an early harvest, and we were fortunate to have all of our fruit in before the fires began. The result of this tumultuous season is some of the best wine we have ever made.”
The 2017 Hexameter is a Bordeaux Blend of 47% Cabernet Franc, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Merlot. It was aged in 60% new French oak.
Winemaker Notes - “The 2017 Hexameter exudes enfolding aromas of rhubarb, blueberry, black cherry, baking spice, Jordan almond and sage. Vibrancy and freshness complement the resonant and undeniably delicious power of this incredible vintage. Austin Peterson, Winemaker
https://ovidnapavalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/2017-OVID-Hexameter-Tasting-Notes.pdf
This label was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck.
Garnet colored, full bodied, complex, concentrated full round black raspberry and black fruits accented by spice and cassis with notes of toasted bread and incense, with nicely integrated acidity, building tannins, and a great finish.
RM 94 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3556131
https://ovidnapavalley.com/
This classic release was rated 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 97 points by Jane Anson, James Suckling and Vinous, and 96 points and ‘Cellar Selection‘ by Wine Enthusiast, and 93 points by Wine Spectator.
Jeb Dunnuck says this is “The greatest wine I’ve ever tasted from this address is the 2009 Léoville Poyferré, which is a step up over both the 2000 and the 2010.”
Wine Advocate calls it “One of the more flamboyant and sumptuous wines of the vintage.”
Vinous calls “The 2009 Léoville-Poyferré (is) a total pleasure bomb. It is classic 2009.”
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and the balance Cabernet Franc.
Saturated inky purple color, full bodied, super concentrated, deep, and opulent, yet still pure, fresh, elegant and lively, complex, blueberries, blackberries and some blackcurrant fruits, with notes of crème de cassis, graphite lead pencil, exotic spices, cigar box, black tea and black olives, turning to sweet silky smooth fine-grained tannins on the lingering finish.
RM 95 points.
Castillo Banfi Sammus Super Tuscan 2019
As mentioned above, dear family friend Jared Gelband dropped in and brought this premium Super Tuscan. We’ve written often in these pages about Jared in his role as wine director at Italian Village Restaurant in Chicago. We’ve featured
many special dinners at Chicago’s oldest continuously operated family Italian Restaurant many times in these pages, where Jared’s manages the sensational ten thousand bottle Wine Spectator Award winning wine cellar.
This is from prolific Italian producer Costello Banfi, founded 1919 in New York City and continues to be solely owned by the Mariani family. The portfolio’s jewel is the award-winning Castello Banfi vineyard estate in Montalcino, Tuscany, acquired in1978, is a property of 7,100 acres. Additionally, the Mariani family also owns US Pacific Northwest based Pacific Rim & Company with projects from premiere AVAs across Washington state, Willamette Valley, Oregon and Sonoma County, CA.
Their extensive holdings also include the Castello Banfi Il Borgo luxury hotel with Michelin star rated Sala dei Grappoli, a classic taverna, enoteca, private glass museum, balsamic cellars, winery tours, and critically acclaimed, luxury boutique hotel “Il Borgo,” a Relais and Chateaux property.
This premium label, ‘Summus’ is ‘Latin for "highest." is a wine of towering elegance’.
This Super Tuscan is a Sangiovese based blend with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
Producer notes - The fruit and structure of the Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon are enhanced by the elegance and bouquet of the Syrah. The 3 varieties are vinified separately. After alcoholic fermentation, the individual wines are transferred to French oak barriques and aged separately for 12-14 months. They are then blended and aged in wood for 10-12 months. Bottle aging follows for 6 months.
Winemaker Notes - “The Castello Banfi Summus boasts a deep ruby color with aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and hints of vanilla and spice. On the palate, it is full-bodied with a rich, velvety texture and flavors of dark fruit, leather, and a touch of smokiness.”
This was rated 92 points by James Suckling, and 91points by Wine Spectator.
Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, smooth, soft and polished for easy drinking, dark black currant fruit with notes of dark mocha chocolate, herbs, spice, black tea, and leather with hints of licorice and loam, with silky velvety tannins on the finish.
RM 91 points.
Rain check …. For next time … I had pulled these from the cellar, prepared to serve them this day, but, with the other spectacular wines brought by others, we didn’t get to them and will return them to the cellar for another day.
Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors 2020
This was another Pinot Noir with legacy influence of winemaker Rob Cabral, like the Summer Dreams that we tasted, above. From the Wine Spectator Top Ten for this year, they write this, “Williams Selyem is a beloved Pinot Noir label for American wine lovers. That’s thanks in large part to Jeff Mangahas, who has been head winemaker since 2014. Succeeding winemaker Bob Cabral and the brand’s original founders, he’s kept the house style intact—one that emphasizes vivid and ripe fruit balanced by underlying juiciness. For the Eastside Road Neighbors bottling, grapes are sourced from the Calegari, Foss and Lewis MacGregor Estate vineyards. The 2023 vintage is a mic drop year for California Pinot, a consistently cool growing season that led to a late harvest. Mangahas hit the mark, earning this Russian River Valley bottling a rare back-to-back appearance in our Top 10.
I had pulled another Pinot Noir, a single vineyard designated label, sharing son Ryan’s name, from one of our favorites storied Pinot producers.
And, a gala family dinner is not complete without pulling some birthyear vintage wines. I pulled these two dessert wines, for sons’ Ryan’s and Sean’s birthyears. Regrettably, we got so caught up in the dinner and fellowship, we didn’t get to these either.
And lastly, for pairing with Turkey, for the true, uniquely American Holiday, a bottle of the arguably, most American varietal wine, from a classic crowd pleaser Napa Valley producer - Caymus Napa Valley Zinfandel!
