Beckmen Vineyards Estate Visit - Ballard Canyon
Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah
During our visit to Santa Barbara
County, Santa Maria and Santa Ynez Valleys, we stopped in at Beckmen
Vineyards. It is one of the wineries that has distribution in the Midwest
(Illinois) so we can buy their wines here. Hence, we knew of Beckmen and had
had their wines. But, of course, only a few labels from their broad portfolio
are distributed here, so it was a chance to discover their wines. Regretably,
we didn't allow or take time to do a tasting. We'll definitely make it a
priority for a future visit to the region.
Beckmen produce nearly a dozen white
wines, and more than a dozen reds, primarily Rhône varietals on their vast
estate vineyards. Once again, we were taken aback to discover Rhône varietals in this region, belaying our preconceptions that it is primarily Burgundian varietals (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), as we discovered with our visits to the Tensley and Zaca Mesa vineyard estates and tasting rooms.
Beckmen is a family owned and
operated business founded in 1994 by Tom and Judy Beckmen, their youngest son
Steve and more recently by their oldest son Jeff. Beckmen have established
themselves as a leading grower and producer in Santa Barbara County, their
wines crafted almost exclusively from their two vineyards sites of 150 planted
acres combined, the Thomas and Judith Beckmen Estate Vineyard in Los Olivos
District AVA and Purisima Mountain Vineyard in the Ballard Canyon AVA.
The Beckmen Vineyards are sited in
two locations with dramatically different soils and climates. See their vineyard map (s) at https://beckmenvineyards.com/blog/updated-vineyard-maps.
The 40 acre (25 planted) Beckmen
estate vineyard surround the winery and hospitality facilities just outside and
south of the town of Los Olivos, on the western border of the Los Olivos District.
The Beckmen Estate is mostly planted to Cabernet Sauvignon with small
amounts of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah.
Several miles to the west is Purisima
Mountain on the western side of Ballard Canyon AVA lies their 365 acre
(125 acres planted), Purisima Mountain Vineyard. Comprised mostly of
clay and clay loam, with varying amounts of gravel, the most unique aspect of
this site is the limestone subsoil. The limestone soil limits vine vigor
and produces smaller vines with lower yields and more intensely flavored fruit.
With peaks reaching
1,150 feet, Purisima Mountain has almost 500 feet of elevation
change with multiple exposures. With a climate and rare limestone subsoils
similar to those found in Côte Rôtie and Châteauneuf du Pape, the vineyard
has proven perfect for producing a range of Rhône varietals, especially
Syrah and Grenache, Mourvedre, and Counoise.
PMV is also the home of Beckmen’s
white wine portfolio, consisting of Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay,
Viognier, and Grenache Blanc.
Tending vines from dormancy through harvest since 1994,
the Beckmen's have learned about their two distinct vineyard properties -
acre by acre, the unique soil and microclimate, the elements of terroir, that best hosts each grape
varietal, fine-tuning their plantings and viticulture to ensure every block
in the vineyard consistently produces the highest quality fruit
possible.
The Beckmen estate is tucked back
off the road from the side road south of town.
Past the winery and production
facility (below) is a hospitality center (above) with a tasting bar, outdoor decks, patios and
lawns overlooking ponds.
They offer numerous tasting flights and WBTG including
some of their limited, allocated, some club-only, and Library wines.
Across the drive is the stately
residence, what in France they would refer to as the Chateau, with outdoor gardens and groomed grounds overlooking and surrounded
by the vineyards, with views of the hills in distance.
As soon as we returned home I sought
out Beckmen labels at our local wine merchants and found at Binny's, our
big-box wine and beverage superstore this Beckmen Syrah.
Beckmen Vineyards Ballard Canyon Purisima
Mountain Vineyard Syrah 2019
I must say, this label exceeded my
expectations and provided great QPR - Quality Price Ratio - better than my
earlier forays into this brand. I've gained a new appreciation for Rhône varietals
from Santa Maria Valley and the range of high quality production from
there.
Winemaker notes: "The cool 2019
growing season produced a very savory vintage of PMV (Purisima
Mountain Vineyard) Syrah. Cured meats, game,
roasted earth, pepper, blackberry, and coco highlight the aromas of the 2019.
Elegant and rounded on the palate (reminiscent of the very successful 2015
vintage), the mouth shows off sweet black fruits, dark chocolate, game, mocha,
and pepper with fine tannins that carry the flavor through the very long,
savory finish. A bit young and tight upon release, the 2019 should be decanted
or aged for the short term and will age beautifully for the next 15-18 years or
longer. Crafted from 100% certified biodynamic syrah grapes."
Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave this
wine 94 points in Oct 2021. "The
2019 Syrah Purisima Mountain Vineyard is a wild, exotic wine. Blueberry jam,
chocolate, spice, leather and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly. This
unctuous, heady Syrah shows just how distinctive Ballard Canyon is. A year or
two in bottle should help soften some of the harder edges."
Interesting that he notes the
"harder edges", which is what I encountered and found off-putting on earlier tastings from
this producer, but they were moderated and not impacting this release. This was
dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, unctuous brambly blackberry and
blueberry fruits with a nuance of sweet clove spice and vanilla punctuated by
notes of licorice, black pepper and hints of dark chocolate and leather, with
lingering moderate tannins on the finish.
RM 92 points.
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