Fortress Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Fortress Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

For mid-week sipping, I pulled from the cellar this Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon from Fortress, which, I admit, I don't recall purchasing or even ever having seen this label before.

Upon further research, I learn this is one of the many numerous brands and labels from the Jackson Family Wines, crafted by Fortress head winemaker Susan Lueker who specializes in Bordeaux varietals for the Kendall-Jackson brand.

Originally from Arkansas, Susan Lueker grew up on a family farm but set out to be a scientist, studying Chemistry and Medical Child Development at the University of Missouri, then, working at the renowned Johns Hopkins University pursuing a graduate degree.

Seeking more balance in her career, returning to her farming roots, more in line with her interests in nature, Susan transferred to the University of California, Davis, where she took her first Enology class and fell in love with the vineyards and the winemaking process.

After graduating with a degree in Viticulture and Enology, she took a job in winemaking at Sonoma Valley’s small-production Hacienda Winery where she gained valuable hands-on experience. We visited Hacienda during one of early visits to Sonoma back in the nineties.

Susan continued to hone her skills at Dry Creek Vineyards before joining Simi winery, where she spearheaded all winemaking efforts for almost two decades. In 2019, Susan moved to Jackson Family Wines as the head winemaker for Fortress, capitalizing on her 25 years of expertise and experience in Sonoma County winemaking. She is looking to craft wines that are complex, balanced, and food-friendly.

Susan lives in Healdsburg with her Chef husband, their two dogs, and two cats. She enjoys foods that pair well with wines, watching sports and exercise.

Fortress Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This release is sourced from the Alexander Valley AVA, Pine Mountain-Cloverdale AVA and the Mendocino Ridge AVA. 

It is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec and 9% Merlot.

The rear label says it was aged in "100% Small Barrels, 50% French Oak."

It is available in distribution at under $20 for an everyday casual drinking wine.

It is written that "Fortress Cabernet Sauvignon delivers aromas of dark fruit, mocha and baking spices on the nose. The palate exhibits well integrated tannins that complement the subtle earthy flavors of pomegranate, blackberry and sweet pipe tobacco. With a rich, opulent mouth feel, Fortress is an approachable wine with a silky, lush finish."

The Tasting Panel-Sonoma County, California - "Ripe berry aromas; lush and smooth texture with dense flavors of chocolate as well as ripe plum and boysenberry. Rich, chewy, and long with spice and depth."

Upon opening, I found this uninspiring and a bit obtuse. I put it away for the night and tried it again the next day it was much better.  Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, black berry fruit punctuated by a layer of dark mocha chocolate, with notes of black tea, spice and tobacco.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2868907

http://www.fortresswinery.com/

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

I've written often in these pages the Ninety-Plus Cellars story with their negociant wines or surplus wines acquired and private labeled, often at high QPR below market prices. They offer a broad selection of labels from the wine regions around the world, often at great value. Occasionally, they offer extraordinary wines at affordable prices for everyday drinking.

When I acquired this label, I hoped this might be such a selection but tonight it was uninspiring and leaving much to be desired while shut-in due to the Coronavirus isolation. Holding some to retry the next day, it was more approachable and enjoyable the following day.

The Ninety-Plus approach started in 2009 when founder Kevin Mehra set out to bring higher quality wine to the market for a better price. He reached out to producers with a history of high ratings asking if they had wine for sale. While some told him to get lost, he found several that had excess inventory, or had some that did not meet their standards for their premium flagship label. Rather than diminish their brand, they agreed to put their wine behind the Ninety-Plus 'private' label, and sell it for less.

Those with excess inventory were willing to part with a certain percentage of their production for a reduced price, rather than discount their wine and erode the value of their brand. It was a win/win scenario. Wineries got to sell more wine, and consumers got access to better wine at lower prices.

Head wine buyer, Brett Vankoski continues to seek out the best opportunities in the market and turn those into great values. Each wine source is anonymized and identified or referred to as a "Lot" number, so as to provide continuity for a particular source from vintage to vintage.

Since availability of a Ninety-Plus label or Lot # is often due to excess supply or other reasons, one cannot expect, or depend on a particular Lot being available year after year. Such is the case of one particular favorite that we found and enjoyed. Despite buying up all we could find in the marketplace, we have not seen a return of the Lot 101 Syrah from Columbia Valley. At the time, the label specified simply '250 cases'. Interestingly it didn't say produced. How many cases were sold under some other, perhaps well known, perhaps higher priced label? We'll likely never know.

Wine collectors understand the axiom of pricing wine for the occasion ... every day wines, once a week wines, once a month wines and once in a lifetime or special occasion wines. Only the privileged few need not worry about budgets or costs of their beverage choice du jour.

We've been enjoying a lot of great wines during our sequestration and sought a more moderate priced selection for this weeknight.

Lot 94 is part of the Ninety-Plus Cellars' popular Collector's Series wine brand. It is a full-bodied Napa Cab from highly-regarded vineyard sites in the distinguished Rutherford AVA, a good value when compared to the Napa Cabs produced from such sites.   

When I last tasted this last fall I rated this 90 Points and wrote, "The 2017 is a top flight Cabernet, sophisticated, complex and enjoyable for early gratification, drinking now, and may likely improve further with 2 to 5 years of aging or more as it is not equal to the 2015 which was a bit better integrated and polished."

Ninety-Plus writes of this label, "the fruit is picked from vines situated on the east side of the valley in a vineyard that was first planted in the 1890s. Upon alluvial and volcanic soils these densely planted vines produce Cabernet Sauvignon that makes some of the best wine in Napa. This is an all-star Cabernet with an elite pedigree."

While I echo the negociant's (Ninety Plus Cellars) tasting notes on this release: "Deep crimson in color with lavish aromas of black currant, mocha, and savory herbs with trailing notes of tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied and well-rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of bright cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth finish," this lacked balance and polish I hoped for pleasant high QPR everyday sipping. The fruits were a bit obtuse and forward with a somewhat flabby less approachable profile.

RM 88 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/90-lot-94-2017.html

https://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Nina Lee Spring Valley Syrah 2015

Nina Lee Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Syrah 2015

We just received our supplemental wine club allocation from Spring Valley Vineyards. 'Supplemental' meaning that we added an additional two cases to our normal shipment - a mix of five Spring Valley labels, Uriah Red Blend, Frederick Red Blend, Sharilee Petit Verdot, Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc and Nina Lee Syrah. As I've chronicled in these pages, each label is named for an ancestral family member dating back to patriarch founder Uriah Corkrum. Nina Lee was his son Frederick's wife, a vaudeville actress that he met while she visited Walla Walla and performed at the local theatre on a North American tour back in the 1920's.

Our visit to the ranch and picturesque vineyards, and meeting owner Dean Derby were highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience in the fall of 2018. We first tasted this release of this label in the tasting room in town during that visit.

Normally, we would stage these in the cellar to settle and age a few years before tasting, opting to drink older or oldest vintages first as part of cellar management. Tonight, we opted to try this current release vintage, still in the shipper, not yet deposited to the cellar.

We prepared a medley of cheeses and fresh fruits to accompany some roast beef and caprese salad for pairing with one of our favorite varietals from a favorite producer and one of my favorite wine friendly cheeses, Old Amsterdam Aged Gouda.

Nina Lee Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Syrah 2015
 

The 2015 release of Nina Lee is a blend of 99% Syrah and 1% Viognier, aged 19 months in 100% French oak, 30% new.

This was rated 93 Points by JamesSuckling.com and Jeb Dunnuck. It was awarded 92 points by International Wine Report.

Upon opening the black fruit aromas permeated the room, the dark inky purple color is most apparent, medium-full bodied, rich concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits are accented by smoke, black tea, notes of olive tapenade,  pepper, spice, and hint of dark mocha with a long earthy finish. Needs some time to settle and integrate a bit further, give it a couple of years cellar aging to reach its prime.

RM 91 points pop and pour. 92 points the next day ... and chilled.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2808195

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2004

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

As the Coronavirus shut-in continues, we ordered in, curbside carryout from our local neighborhood trattoria, Angelis Italian. 

I ordered veal marsala and for pairing with it's brown sauce, I pulled from the cellar an old stand-by from one of our favorite producers, Robert Craig Napa Valley Affinity 2004.

As I have written numerous times in these pages, we've been collecting this wine since its' inaugural vintage in 1993 and we still hold several cases spread across almost two dozen vintages. 

Crafted to provide a sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon at a reasonable price with early gratification, Affinity defies this approach with its age worthiness, as this tasting testifies. 

This label was also understated in another way, it is actually a Bordeaux Blend and contains the other Bordeaux varietals. The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Craig vineyards and contract sources throughout Napa Valley. Robert used to refer to it as "three mountains and a Valley", referring to their vineyards and sources on Howell Mountain, Mt Veeder, Atlas Peak, Mt George, and the valley floor. According to the rear label, this 2004 Affinity release was 'sourced from the Tulocay estate in southern Napa Valley, blended with Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from exceptional vineyards in Napa Valley'. As was often the case, the specifics of blend was not specified. 

R & L with Robert Craig
at Harvest Party

We may hold more Robert Craig wine in our cellar than any other producer. We've been fans of Robert Craig since the early nineties. We've been to many events at the winery as well as several private functions with Robert, his wife Lynn, and former hospitality and wine club ambassador, Rachel, and various members of the Craig team.   

I remember Robert Craig exclaiming his love for this label and how proud he was to hold it to an affordable pricepoint to introduce consumers to Robert Craig wines. I've written recently that in recent years, as Robert and Lynn turned over the reigns to new management, and the recent passing of Robert, this label has crept up in price significantly and is now priced where their premium labels used to be. Never-the-less, it provides good value and quality drinking both early and yet also stands up to aging.

Six years ago I wrote, "This ten year old 2004 remains consistent with earlier tasting notes, deep dark purple inky color, the ripe berry fruit aromatics, full body, ripe berry fruit, accented by a undercurrent of caramel are starting to give way to a layer of anise, tobacco, leather and firm full tannins on the long fruit filled finish."  

Tonight, at sixteen years of age, this release may be at the apex of its drinking window and is as good as ever.  In an earlier tasting when I wrote, "Tasted from a 375 ml split. In this smaller format, it may be starting to show its age," I attribute that to perhaps a combination of bottle variation and the smaller format which ages less gracefully.

RM 90 points, increased a point from past tastings.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=323482

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=Robert+Craig+Affinity

Flinders Run Shiraz 2005

Favorite Aussie Shiraz - Flinders Run Shiraz 2005 Aging Gracefully

I raved about this wine when I discovered it several years ago and have featured it numerous times since in this blog. When I discovered this wine downstate in a local wineshop, I picked some up and tried it, then found and purchased more on-line. Then I convinced local mega-merchant Binny's to obtain some and we cleaned them out too.

This remains one of our go-to favorites for tasty, hearty sipping as we ration and savor the remaining bottles of our stash with slightly less than a case left. With BBQ ribs dinner, we opened this old favorite, Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2005.

I featured this wine, the producer and estate in an earlier blogpost. I wrote about discovering this wine when it came on the scene with these two vintage releases and disappeared, not to be seen again. Producer Emanuel Skorpos saw my post and posted a reply in that blogpost. He wrote. "....we are still here in the Southern Flinders Ranges, still making great wines. Unfortunately our USA importer wasn't as honorable as he made himself out to be, none the less we are still focused on developing big opulant parcels of wines with a focus on producing wines that are both representative of the varietal but importantly very much value packed. Stay tuned we will be back in the USA with bigger and better wines, a replanting has seen us source far more superior clonal varieties of both Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, our research and initial trials has blown us away so much that we have planted 12 acres of new Cabernet and 20 acres of sgiraz this year that will be focused on delivering wines of distinction, again single estate grown wines big bold and fruit driven. Looking forward to getting back to the USA, In due course you will see a newly revamped website which will inform you of our new plantings and one which i am sure will draw a heap of attention once we publicly announce it. Stay tuned for the NEXT GENERATION of FLINDERS RUN Wines."

As of this posting, there is no update or notice of a re-emergence so we'll continue to ration our supply and be patient and vigilant for their return to distribution in Chicagoland, or in the on-line wine community.

Back on release of this label, according to the the Flinders Run website (http://www.flindersrun.com.au/), "We knew from the first trials of the 2001 and subsequent 2003 vintages that the Flinders Run wines were going to be something special, but nothing prepared us for the overwhelming success, we would experience with the release of the 2005 Vintage. Subsequent vintages have been crafted in the same careful manner exhibiting a consistency in flavour and style and most importantly capturing the elegance of region climate and above all varietal character."

The 2005 vintage got a raving 95 point review from legendary wine critic Robert Parker. He wrote,"Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. For a wine of this size, it is remarkably light on its feet. Give it 2-3 years to more fully evolve and drink it through 2020. This is quite a debut for Flinders Run!"

When I first discovered this label in a downstate wine shop, I don't recall having seen or knowing about their rating or rave reviews. When I saw Robert Parker's review and 95 point rating, I knew he shared our love of big bold Aussie Shiraz's, even if we did think his enthusiasm was at times 'over the top' and even exceeded ours.

Its hard to believe its been six years since I posted that earlier blogpost when I wrote, "Happily, we still hold and continue to enjoy this big bold fruit filled Shiraz. Holding more than several bottles into their ninth year, one rightfully wonders how is it aging and how long will it last?"

Parker's projected drinking window extending through 2020. Here we are in the new year which and his review still holds in this label's fifteenth year, "Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. For a wine of this size, it is remarkably light on its feet."

This retains all the nuances and character it exhibited in its youth - nicely balanced, polished, and flavorful. Big, bold, dense, complex layers of blue and black berry fruits, accented by licorice, hints of black pepper, and tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/10/favorite-aussie-shiraz-flinders-2005.html

Champagne Duo for Bridesmaid's Luncheon

Champagne Duo for Bridesmaid's Luncheon - Lanson and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé.

Linda hosted a luncheon for son Sean and fiance', daughter-in-law to be, Michelle, and her bridesmaid's, so they could gather and pick out their dresses for the wedding. I served a pair of Champagnes for the occasion, Lanson and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé.

Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Rosé


This got 91 points James Suckling, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points from John Gilman and earlier from Wine Spectator.

This is a a blend of 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier.

Rustic orange color, crisp, full-bodied, complex and zesty, lively red currant, red berry and citrus fruits with a good core, fine acidity, crisp texture, chalky minerality and hint of apple, smoke and spice with a long, vibrant finish.

RM 89 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27316







Lanson Brut Rosé Champagne NV

This rosé is made from 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, and 10% Chardonnay.

This was awarded 91 points Wine Spectator, 90 points James Suckling.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, bright acidity, notes of lemon and dried cherry fruits with notes of mineral and pain grille', dry and crisp on the tangy flavorful finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=327152

Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011 

Wanting a nice Syrah for a BBQ rib dinner, I pulled from the cellar the oldest vintage of our collection of this producer's labels. Our visit to Force Majeure Vineyards was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience in 2018. 

Marketing Director and wife of winemaker Todd, Carrie Alexander was kind enough to host us and help arrange some of our wine tastings and winery visits. 

We assembled a collection of Force Majeure wines after hosting Carrie and winemaker Todd Alexander here in Chicago during their release tour back in 2017.

This vintage release if from the previous generation winemaker at Force Majeure. Force Majeure Vineyards was originally called Grand Reve which means “great dream” in French. It was founded in Woodinville, near Seattle, in 2004. It was a collaboration between businessman Paul McBride and vineyard manager Ryan Johnson who spent a decade managing vineyards in Eastern Washington’s prestigious Red Mountain AVA. He and McBride wanted to focus on Rhone-style varietals and they were soon winning raves and ratings from Wine Advocate and other reviews. 

McBride and his wife Susan changed the winery name to Force Majeure. They hired winemaker Todd Alexander who was previously winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyard in Napa Valley to oversee winemaking.  

Jeb Dunnick of Wine Advocate has called Force Majeure “One of my favorite estates in Washington… This label is comprised of Red Mountain fruit, with grapes sourced from the crème de la crème Ciel du Cheval vineyard. 

Today, Force Majeure wines are increasingly from their estate Force Majeure Vineyard on a steep, rocky site on the upper slopes of Red Mountain and their Walla Walla estate vineyard as more and more plots come online. 

Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

This is a blend of 96% Syrah, 2% Viognier and 2% Rousanne. It was aged two years in 33% new French, 67% neutral French barrels. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated but nicely balanced, smooth but more subdued blackberry and dried cherry fruits with notes of olive tapenad, spice, leather and hints of black pepper with fine acidity and tannins on the lingering finish,  a nice accompaniment to our BBQ rib dinner. . 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788978

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard 2008

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Red Wine 2008

 

Linda prepared grilled pork chops with a delicious medley of grilled apples, vegetables and onions (below). For a wine pairing, I pulled one of our favorite labels, Uriah from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington State, Columbia Valley.

Our Spring Valley wine club allocation shipped this week so we pulled one of their labels to make room for a current vintage release replacement bottle. As part of cellar management, we pulled the oldest vintage release of this label, a twelve year old 2008. We hold of decade of vintages of this label.

Uriah is a Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, meaning it is predominantly Merlot based rather than Cabernet, complemented by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

We visited Spring Valley during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby (above) patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, namesake for this label. Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience. 

All of the Spring Valley wines are named for one of the ancestral family members, and one for Dean himself. Spring Valley Vineyard produces wine from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington.

Washington State and regional powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates purchased the winery and the brand from the Derby family, but they continues to own and operate the vineyards.

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Red Wine 2008

This label is a Merlot based blend of Bordeaux varietals, the 2008 vintage consists of 53% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. This was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Consistent with previous tasting note from 2019, this was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied,  black raspberry and black currant fruits accented by cedar, tobacco, notes of licorice and cinnamon spice. 

At a dozen years of age, the cork, foil and label were perfect but this is beginning to show its age and is starting to descend from the apex of its drinking profile.

RM 89 points, a deduction of one point from earlier.

This received 93 points from Wine Spectator and 89 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1017181

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/03/uriah-spring-valley-vineyard-red-wine.html

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Mid-week rainy day shut-in, we opened some wine to sip with Linda's Italian Bruscetta polenta and some artisan cheeses, this aged Cabernet Franc from a Napa Valley label and producer from a by-gone era, Liparita, different than the current day label.

While it isn't chronicled on my Winesite, I recall we visited Liparita and tasted earlier releases of this label with winemaker Gove Celia from barrel at the Oakville crush facility during one of our Napa trips back in the late nineties.

I've written earlier in these pages about this 'old' Liparita brand from the nineties. The actual original brand dates back to the historic beginnings of wine in America back in the 1880's when William Keyes, a geologist, settled in Napa Valley and discovered the Howell Mountain terroir with its volcanic soils which he felt would be ideal for wine. The soils reminded him of those on Lipari Island, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily, which became the inspiration for the name “Liparita.”

That original Liparita, like many other early wineries, succumbed to the restraints of Prohibition and the attacks of phylloxera on the early vine plantings. This Liparita brand resurfaced briefly during the nineties and then after waning was purchased was relaunched by Spencer Hoopes who purchased it in 2006.  The Hoopes' branding label is what you find in wineshops today, producing and remarketing Napa Valley appellation specific wines. The revitalized Liparita label replicates the original early 1880's design, and that original intent to produce great cabernets from the various notable vineyards from across Napa Valley.

I read that Gove Celia is director of winemaking at Neal Family Vineyards which ironically is on Liparita Road in Angwin high up on Howell Mountain. We missed this during our numerous trips to Howell Mountain and will explore this further. 

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Hard to believe its been almost ten years since I last tasted this label. Moreso that it still has that same taste profile and character. Back in 2010 and 2012 I wrote, "We've been long time fans of Liparita Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots - this is our first Cabernet Franc and what a hit - a nice achievement exceeding expectations indeed - better than their other endeavors from this era.'

"Like a left bank Bordeaux that features Cabernet Franc to add flavor and structure, this full bodied Cab Franc was all-in with huge floral bouquet and full forward flavors of black berry and black raspberry fruits, a layer of clove spice, leather and a hint of cedar on a long lingering finish. Its slightly flabby awkwardness can be forgiven for its big forward tasty floral and fruit."

Similar to the previous tasting, however tonight the floral and fruit flavors have started to give way to non-fruit flavors of smoke, earthy and leather.

We've been long time fans of Liparita Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots - this is our first Cabernet Franc and what a hit - a nice achievement exceeding expectations indeed - better than their other endeavors from this era. 

Back in 2012 I rated this RM 91 points. Tonight I give it an 88 based on diminished fruits and floral notes.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=158451

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2012/03/monastrell-red-blend-leads-red-wine.html

Clark-Claudon Napa Cabernet 1997

Clark-Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 1997

Continuing our Coronavirus shut-in, we ordered 'curbside carry-out' from our neighborhood trattoria, Angelis Italian. We're endeavoring to support our local restaurants during this crisis albeit remotely since the bar and dining rooms remain closed .

I pulled from the cellar a boutique Napa Valley producer Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon.

We hold close to two decades of vintages of this label going back to their inaugural release in 1994.

Clark-Claudon are estate bottled Cabernets, sourced from their 18 acres of vineyards on the northeast side of Howell Mountain. The total estate covers 115 acres, sited between 800 and 1200 feet elevation, between Ink Grade & Howell Mountain roads.

We met Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon-Clark (middle couple on left) when we hosted them for a wine producer dinner at then trendy Pinot Blanc in St Helena during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999.

I recall friend and wine-buddy Paul McDonald (left) from LA had some association with the restaurant ownership back in the day.

Clark-Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 1997

I selected a 1997 vintage release which is one of the few bottles remaining from a case we acquired back during that trip. The much heralded '97 Napa Cabernets were highly rated and projected to be long lived.

As I wrote in a previous tasting of the release back in 2014, "In earlier tastings of this vintage of Clark Claudon, I wondered if it was like Dominus (86) and some Bordeaux (89-90 Pichon Lalande) that I later learned I drank too early when they finally 'awoke' to reveal their true character and fruits years later?'

Back in 2014, "Unlike previous tastings when the Clark Claudon was somewhat closed and a bit flabby with muted fruit upon opening, tonight it seemed to be showing its age, opening to ripe raisiny black cherry and black berry fruit, with subtle tone of cigar box and leather with nicely integrated and balanced silky smooth tannins. After an hour or so the fruit closed down and it became subdued leaving a slight astringency and tones of tobacco and leather.'

Tonight, this was settled and open and while not showing diminution from age, will certainly not improve further, but there should be no hurry to consume the remaining bottles for another year or more.

Due to the wax seal on the top of the bottle, I couldn't easily use my ahso two pronged cork puller, which I would normally use for an aged bottle. Despite using the 'rabbit ear' cork screw with the extra long screw, the cork pretty much disintegrated in a crumble and had to be dug out in crumbly pieces from the bottle, which was then strained and decanted.

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, bright lively, nicely balanced structured black berry fruits with notes of black cherry, hints of graphite, leather and earthy tobacco with modest smooth tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=436557

https://www.clarkclaudon.com/

Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

As the Coronavirus shut-in continues, our family and friends are having fun with our virtual wine tastings sharing texts and videos of our wines and dinners.

Friend and colleague Tom R texted me that he opened a 2003 vintage release (he's so proud that he has now mastered his 'ahso', two pronged cork puller) of this label and asked if he had waited too long? I replied, "absolutely not, we're still holding a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the mid-nineties". So, when Linda prepared grilled tenderloin steak with mashed potatoes and green beans, I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage release from 1998 for the pairing.

Chateau St Jean is one of the premier producers in Sonoma County and their winery chateau estate is a showcase highlight of the Sonoma Valley.

Our private tastings at the 1920's chateau with views of the Grand Lawn and Estate Vineyards and in the Reserve Room have been the highlights of our trips to the region including our 2017 Sonoma Wine Experience and our Sonoma Harvest tour in 2009.

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" was one of the first classic Bordeaux Blend labels from the region and has always represented good value, high QPR relative to the top Bordeaux labels. It was the Wine Spectator #1 wine in the annual Top 100 list in 1999 with the 1996 vintage release. At that time the release price was $28, a remarkable value at the time. From then on, the label exploited its #1 legacy and notoriety and boosted the price point, but it still represents reasonable comparable value. 

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

At twenty-two years of age, this 1998 vintage release was still drinking nicely and holding its own, despite being from a lackluster vintage that was expected to have a short lifespan drinking window. The color is taking on a slight opacity and grey hue and the fruits are starting to give way to non-fruit flavors so it is starting to decline and should be consumed over the next year or so.

I have written often in these pages about the 1998 vintage release of Napa and Sonoma Valley Cabernets. Jancis Robinson of Jancis Robinson.com wrote of the 1998 vintage, "The vintage was slammed by some critics, and shame on them, for many terrific wines came from 1998, after the rush-to-judgment were made."

This was an over-achiever for the vintage exceeding expectations on release and in the years since. 

This classic Bordeaux Blend contains the five Bordeaux varietals, hence the name Cinq Cepages for the 'five flavors'. This release is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit-Verdot.

Robert Parker awarded this release 89-91 points, and Wine Enthusiast 90 points.

There was dense sediment in the bottle. This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm structure, tightly wound but nicely balanced with complex black currant and black cherry fruits with sharp acidity accented by briary herb, earth, cedar, hints soy and anise with moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2027

https://www.chateaustjean.com/wines/cinq-cepages

Viader V Petit Verdot 2000

Viader "V" Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2000

We discovered and acquired this label during our visit to the Viader winery estate on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008. We have since acquired and still hold more than a half dozen vintages dating back to this 2000 release. 

The Viader 23-acre estate sits at 1200 foot elevation overlooking Napa Valley. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Viader is known for its Bordeaux-style blends. The elevation is notable as that is the height that the fog reaches above the valley floor and hence is the point at which below is designated Napa Valley, and above it designated Howell Mountain. This is due to the difference terroir due to the effects of the fog on the ripening vines. 

With son Alec engaged to Vivianna, this has become somewhat of a 'signature' wine for us and our future daughter-in-law.

Readers of these posts know we have a lot of fun with wine labels associated with family members and friends, as well as vintage specific wines for birthyears, anniversaries and memorable occasions.

Tonight, we video-conferenced with Vivianna and Alec celebrating her birthday together, albeit remotely and virtually. In this case our virtual visit was due to distance between Chicago and New York, and not the isolation due to the current Coronavirus pandemic. In commemoration of her and her special day we opened this vintage release of the ultimate 'V' label and shared it via video.

Another 'V' series of labels we enjoy with and in honor of Vivianna is from Venge Vineyards, as shown.

The 'V' is a testament to the producer and winemaker Delia Viader, a remarkable and impressive lady who was born in Argentina and educated in Europe before earning graduate degrees in the U.S., a notable role model for any career minded female. It is also the branding and label for this single-varietal designated wine that is based on the Bordeaux Varietal Petit Verdot.

Delia Viader spent much of her formative years in Europe and in France where she earned a doctorate in Philosophy from the Sorbonne University in Paris, then pursued advanced business studies in the US at MIT, UC Berkeley and UC Davis.

Recognizing the potential Napa Valley wine industry in the 1980's, Delia acquired the Howell Mountain property and set out to create a world class wine estate, and continued studying Enology and Viticulture at University of California, Davis.  During this time she also raised her four children in the wine environment and culture.

We had the pleasure of meeting Delia Viader during a producer tasting evening sponsored by Binny's here in Chicago back in 2005. 

Petit Verdot (“peh-tee vur-doe”) is used as a blending grape in red Bordeaux blends because of its full body, plentiful color, tannin and floral aromas of violet. Because of its boldness, Petitot Verdot typically comprises less than 5-10% of the blend and is rarely produced as a single-varietal wine.

In recent years, Petit Verdot has emerged as a increasingly popular single varietal offering and we have collected the varietal from several of our favorite producers including Spring Valley and Del Dotto. Viader were ahead of their time in offering this as a standalone offering back in the day.

To accompany this special wine, Linda prepared a spectacular meal complete with grilled stuffed mushroom caps with sausage, jalapeno and cheese. 

Viader "V" Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2000

This released was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator.



This is a blend primarily of Petit Verdot sourced from a 1.2-acre plot in the northeast corner of the estate of  where the soil is particularly rocky and the yields are incredibly small. The producer says, "in each vintage, these grapes are short on production but always long on personality".

The blend also contains some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Only 353 cases were produced of this release.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm structured blackberry and black currant fruits, licorice, spice, leather with hints of menthol and dark mocha, finishing with bright acidity and dusty, fine tannins.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3022

https://viader.com/ 

Marco DiGuilio Diamond Mtn Cabernet

Marco DiGiulio Mark K Vineyard Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Entering week four of the Coronavirus shut-in, we order from Angelis Italian, our local neighborhood trattoria. I pulled from the cellar this vintage aged Marco DiGiulio single vineyard designated Cabernet Sauvignon for the wine pairing. I have blogged about the background and history of Marco in these pages.

 Marco DiGiulio gained a reputation producing premium wines as consulting winemaker for a number of high end boutique producers in the Napa area. He worked at well known wineries including Buena Vista, Pine Ridge, Atlas Peak and Pepi Winery. While at Pepi he was put in charge of the esteemed Lokoya brand focusing on high end Cabernet Sauvignon.

He came on the scene with his own label in 2001 through 2005 and then seemed to fall off the grid in terms of his own label. We saw his label in the Napa Valley wineshops that featured hip limited release boutique producers such as Bounter Hunter wines in downtown Napa. He also had some select distribution in New York, Florida and a few other states. We found and acquired his wines on Winebid.com. It was also available on his website at www.marcowine.com, but it has become increasingly scare with the passing of time.

We still hold each of his vintage releases, '01 through '05, from both his vineyards, Mt Veeder and Diamond  Mtn. As a borderline obsessive wine geek, we researched his vineyard sources and his subsequent works to track terroir and legacy and succession in artwork. We have written about his work as we have in the cases of the Long Shadows and their Vintners' Collection which features the works of Philipe Melka and Randy Dunn, two legendary Napa producers, or Nils and Kirk Venge, who touched so many labels across the valley over time.

Much of the fun of collecting and studying fine wine is to follow the careers of notable winemakers from label to label, from vintage to vintage. Much of my journaling in these pages is following winemakers through such studies. Such a pursuit and study has been more difficult with the more stealthy, less public Marco DiGiulio.

Marco DiGiulio Wines featured single vineyard designated selections with premium fruit sourced from prime vineyards on Mt Veeder and this Mark K Vineyard from Diamond Mountain.  I wrote about his Mt Veeder label sourced from the legendary Pym Rae vineyard in this blogpost.

Marco branded release bottlings are packaged in large extra heavy gauge glass bottles with an extra deep bung, that 'bump' in the bottom of the bottle to separate sentiment. Each of his two wine labels were produced in small quantities of only 200 to 300 cases. Marco’s wines were aged in 100% New French Oak barrels.

Marco DiGiulio Mark K Vineyard Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a vineyard owned and managed by Norm Kiken, the owner of Reverie Winery. The vineyard grows on volcanic soils with a southern exposure and always ripens well.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, nicely balanced and well integrated rich black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of smoked oak, anise, spices, hints of soy and dustiness with lively acidity on a smooth lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=68522

http://www.marcowine.com/

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Coronavirus shut-in dinner, Linda grilled BBQ ribs and baked potatoes so I pulled from the cellar favorite bbq rib pairing, Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Tonight, we opened a favorite CDP from Vieux Télégraphe in remembrance of our visit to the estate and meeting Daniel Brunier during our visit to the appellation last summer. 

 

Our Vieux Télégraphe visit was certainly a highlight of our trip to the Luberon and Rhone Valley.

I probably should've held this as it should age for three decades or more, and I almost opened a '96 Beaucastel, but I couldn't resist opening this in tribute to producer Daniel Brunier and his artwork, as well as his generous hospitality hosting us there.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded this release 97 points and said "the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

In 2012 Parker wrote, "More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity. Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years."

Jeb Dunnuck said, "this will not be a wine for instant gratification and needs a solid 5-6 years of bottle age; it should keep for upwards of three decades."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

 

In 2016, wine writer critic Jeb Dunnuck gave a seminar at the Hospice du Rhône event in Paso Robles. This non-profit organization has long been a supporter of Rhône varieties from around the globe, and Dunnuck wrote "I continue to think it’s one of the best wine events in the World." 

The title of this seminar was “The Intricacies of Châteauneuf du Pape”, and he put the wines together with the idea to show the differences between rolled stones terroirs and sandy terroirs, as well as highlight the differences between traditional and modern wine making techniques.

He chose this 2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape LatCrau, one of four wines to highlight classic, traditional Châteauneuf du Papes. He wrote, "(This wine) is about as classic as they come. Dark fruits, lots of minerality, ripe herbs and licorice all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe beauty."

So, here at ten years one might think this is at the apex of its drinking window. I believe it probably will be at its prime in another five or even ten years at it seemed a bit tight and closed.   

It’s dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, full bodied, dense concentrated, complex black cherry and black currant fruits, black olives, licorice, spice and crushed pepper tones with hints of tobacco, magnificent 'legs' of structured, textured tannins yet smooth and approachable on the finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1220964

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

 

Godspeed Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Godspeed Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Eric and Cathy brought this to our OTBN gala last month. We both discovered and acquired this wine at the vineyard/producer during our Napa Valley Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011.

Godspeed Vineyards is a small production label from this boutique producer. Ironically, I saw some available at Total Wine up in Minnesota just the week prior to my previous tasting back in 2016.

Godspeed is a small production boutique grower on Napa Valley Mount Veeder situated in a remote location to the north end of the vast Mt Veeder appellation up on Mt Veeder Road above the town of Yountville down below.

Godspeed Vineyard

Goodspeed vineyards, first planted in 1987, possess terroir for growing classic Napa mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, with steep hillsides and mixed sedimentary and volcanic soils. The hillside vineyard sits at an average elevation of 1500 feet above the valley facing predominantly East, Northeast. Temperatures are usually 10-12 degrees cooler than the valley, and the vineyard is generally above the morning fog, giving longer days of sunshine, which normally allows for an earlier harvest.  The vines snake across the hillside slopes producing small clusters of deeply concentrated grapes.

The vineyard is the project of Larry Stricker and his son David. Larry is an acclaimed architect who has created world class resort hotels, including the Phoenician in Scottsdale, Arizona; the Marriott Desert Springs Resort and a series of Hawaiian properties including the Halekulani, Kahala Resort, Kapalua Bay Hotel and the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel.

Bill, Jan, Linda, Bill and Beth with David Stricker

Godspeed sells most of their Godspeed Mount Veeder estate grown fruit to recognized wineries including Sbragia, Newton, Mayacamas, Robert Craig, Bremmer, William Hill & Monticello.

Since 1990 they kept about half the vineyard production and bottled their own hand crafted wine under under the Godspeed label.

Godspeed grows and produces four different varietal estate wines under the Godspeed brand: about 500 cases each of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, some Malbec and about 600 cases of Trinity, a unique blend of estate grown Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah sourced from partner grower.

For the 2005 vintage year, the blend was: 42% Godspeed Vineyards, Mount Veeder, Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Godspeed Vineyards, Mount Veeder, Malbec, and 33% Monticello Vineyards, Oak Knoll, Syrah.

In some years, they also produce a Non-Vintage Late Harvest Chardonnay dessert wine they call "Amen". 

The 2013 Sbragia "Godspeed Vineyard" Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon sold for about $80 and was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 93-95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Godspeed Vineyards Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
 

Tonight, Linda prepared for dinner chicken marsala in a brown sauce with brown rice so I pulled this aged Napa Cab as a pairing complement.

My last published tasting note for this label was back in 2016 when I wrote, "This was drinking very nicely in its twelfth year and may be at its prime, not likely to improve further with more aging. This 2004 was the best showing of this label that I have had to my recollection."

This was dark blackish purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic, black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors, a bit tight and firmly structured, the fruits are starting to give way to a predominant tone of licorice, notes of creosote and cedar with hints of truffle, spice  tobacco and green pepper, turning to moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 87 points.

In 2012 this was awarded 92 points by Wine & Spirits Guild of America.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

Lasted tasted and published at https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/godspeed-mt-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon.html.

https://godspeedvineyards.webs.com/