Thursday, July 20, 2023

Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir Inniskillin Ice Wine at Beach Walk Café, Henderson Park Inn, Destin

Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir and Inniskillin Ice Wine at  Beach Walk Café, Henderson Park Inn, Destin

Date night out during our vacation getaway to The Cove in Destiny East in Destin, Florida, we dined at the Beach Walk Restaurant at the Henderson Park Inn at the end of our beach adjacent the Henderson State Park with views of the Destin harbor towers in the distance.

Destin sits on the Emerald Coast of the Florida panhandle and is noted as one of the top beaches in the state, nation and world, by various travelogues and reviews, with its powdery sugar white sands. 


The Beach Walk Café at the Henderson Park Inn is an award-winning, fine-dining restaurant that overlooks the beach with views of the towering condo towers along the Destin beach and harbor two miles to the west. 

It has been named one of the most romantic restaurants in North America for its pairing imaginative cuisine rooted in the freshest, local ingredients with spectacular sunsets and starry skies amidst the surf.

Our server said she has stayed there for a half dozen years because of their executive chef, Destin native Daniel Peters. Daniel first worked a professional kitchen at the age of 26, gaining his first taste of fine food and wine knowledge at Chan’s Wine World. 

In 2011, he moved to Napa Valley to further his culinary skills and experience. There he studied under a number of world-renowned award-winning chefs, including Douglas Keane, Sang Yoon, Jake Rand and Stephan Barber. He returned home to apply what he learned to elevation Destin’s food culture, with his Gulf-to-table concept at Beach Walk.

For our dinner this evening, we started with the Corn and Crab Bisque and the Iceberg Wedge salad with Applewood Bacon, Shaved Red Onion, Tomato, Maytag Blue Cheese Crumble and Dressing.

For our entree we selected the fresh catch Snapper with Corn Truffle Risotto, Madeira Mushrooms, Truffle Fries in a Citrus Beurre Blanc.

While the limited but carefully selected wine list offered several favorite producers and selections such as Nils Venge Saddleback, Chardonnay and Cabernet, no less than five of our selection choices were not available. 

We settled on an our fifth choice the Belle Glos Pinot Noir, which proved to be a superb pairing choice, perhaps testament to the quality of offerings, but there were few alternatives at that point. 

When I expressed my displeasure at the out of date wine list, and admonished them that we brought more wine from our home cellar in Chicago for our week away, than they had available, General Manager Mike Frey appeared and was extremely gracious and attentive. He granted us a complimentary Domaine Chandon California Carneros sparkling wine, a taste of the evenings WBTG special offer red, followed by a premium icewine accompaniment to our dessert, another offering not shown on the winelist.

Despite it all, we had a delightful long discussion throughout the evening on common interests, backgrounds and fine dining and wine experiences.

The Belle Glos Pinot was delightful with dinner.

Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2021

Belle Glos is the wine of owner winemaker Joseph Wagner, son of Chuck Wagner of Napa Valley Caymus notoriety. Belle Glos was the name of his grandmother, Chuck's mother, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, Matriarch and co-founder of Caymus Vineyards, original land and vineyard owner. Joe focuses on single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs including this Clark and Telephone Vineyard from down in Santa Barbara County in the Santa Maria Valley.  

As a fifth-generation Napa Valley winemaker, Joe learned his way around a vineyard long before he was able to drink wine.

By the time he was 19 he knew that he would continue his family’s winemaking legacy, working alongside his father at Caymus Vineyards. In 2001, he created Belle Glos, with a focus on vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs from throughout California’s best coastal regions.

More recently, he has launched a number of new brands under Copper Cane Wines & Provisions. Joe has a keen interest in contributing to the evolution of the wine industry, by discovering new wine growing locations and through experimentation in the cellar.

Joe lives in Napa Valley, has six children, and maintains a healthy balance between his family life and a passionate dedication to his business.

Belle Glos showcases distinctive Pinot Noirs produced from California’s most noteworthy coastal wine-growing regions.

While each vineyard location lies near the Pacific Ocean, the climate differences are significant, varying with the amount of fog, wind, sunlight, and soil type at each site. Each Vineyard Designate is crafted to distill the purest essence of the locale into elegant expressions of California Pinot Noir.

Owner/winemaker, Joe Wagner chose the name Belle Glos (pronounced “BELL GLOSS”) to honor his grandmother, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner. Lorna was a co-founder of Caymus Vineyards, an inspirational figure to Joseph and an avid lover of Pinot Noir.

I wrote last year about Belle Glos Vineyard Select Pinot Noirs from the Wagner family vineyards. This selection is from their Clark & Telephone Vineyard, named for its location near the corner of Clark Avenue and Telephone Road in the Santa Maria Valley. The site is cooled by wind and fog that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean following the Santa Maria River. The vineyard was planted in 1972 with the Martini clone of Pinot Noir, one of the first to be used along the California coastlands.

This was surprisingly robust and flavorful, yet smooth and polished so as to nicely complement the fresh seafood entree. 

Dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, smooth and polished with nicely integrated full flavors of black raspberry, with hints of blueberry, subtle strawberry and cherry. There are tones of cinnamon, spice, sweet oak and tea on a lively acidity long finish with supple tannins.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1610945

http://www.belleglos.com/

With our desert course, Mike presented us with this ultra-premium Inniskillin Ice Wine.

Inniskillin Vidal Blanc Niagara VQA Icewine 2018

We visited the Inniskillin estate, vineyards and winery on the Niagara escarpment during our Inniskillin Niagara on the Lake Wine Experience back in 2012. It is the 'first growth' premiere grand cru of Canadian wines. 

 Innisklillin Wines was founded in 1975 by Austrian-born Karl J. Kaiser, and native Canadian Donald J.P. Ziraldo, a decendant of a family of winegrowers in Northern Italy. They were granted the first winery license granted in the province of Ontario since 1929. 

Inniskillin was founded dedicated to producing the finest possible wines from vinifera wine grapes grown in the Niagara Peninsula. Karl and Donald tested the ground of Niagara, seeking the optimal terroir and located the Inniskillin estate and vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake at the historic Brae Burn Estate. Inniskillin gained international notoriety when its pioneering 1989 Vidal Icewine was awarded the Grand Prix d'Honneur at Vinexpo 1991 drawing worldwide attention to Canada's burgeoning wine industry.

VQA Icewine is a highly concentrated dessert wine made by harvesting grapes naturally frozen on the vine at -10 C in December-January. Inniskillin VQA Icewine is internationally awarded and recognized and is exported throughout the world.

 Vidal is a hybrid grape varietal, produced from Ugni Blanc and Seibel varietals, that has a thick skin suitable for harvesting late in the season. It is the most popular Icewine grape grown in Ontario. It’s noted for good natural acidity that gives great structure to the lusciousness of its tropical aromas and flavors of mango and lychee.  Inniskillin produces Vidal Icewine in two distinct styles, one without oak aging to highlight the fresh fruit emphasis, and with oak aging for added complexity.

This is the same wine, one vintage removed from that which we tasted at a fine dinner we had at the Herrington Inn Atwaters Restaurant in Geneva last fall.

Winemaker Notes - "Aromatics of tropical fruit including mango and orange dominate, on the palate fruit flavors including peach, nectarine and lemon are balanced by crisp, lively acidity. Perfect on its own; a variety of cheeses (blue veined, aged cheddar, rich cream cheeses with dried fruits); seared scallops; lobster; rich pates; fruit based desserts."

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93 points by Decanter

The 2018 Vidal Icewine comes in with 245 grams of residual sugar, 10.5 of total acidity and 9.5% alcohol. An early harvest began on December 14 and continued for several consecutive days. 
 
Golden straw colored, fulled bodied, rich concentrated unctuous classic peach and apricot notes with tongue coating sugar sweetness, hints of spiced orange, caramel and almond in the lingering finish. 
 
RM 93 points. 
 
 

Wednesday, July 19, 2023

Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red


Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red for elegant refined casual sipping on holiday

For our getway week at our Destiny East Cove vacation rental in Destin, FL, we took several wines from our cellar, along with some artisan cheeses, to enjoy during our week away including this Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red.

We acquired this wine directly from the producer as it is not available in distribution in our hometown Chicagoland marketplace. It is available, however at Total Wine the super merchant stores on the east coast from Florida, including the nearest store in Pensacola, to Connecticut, as well as various Midwest cities including Indianapolis.

While best enjoyed with a grilled beefsteak, this was fabulous casual sipping with a selection of artisan cheeses. 

We first wrote about this wine when we received our shipment from the producer last fall in this featured blogpost - Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Wine.

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Wine 2013

This producer first caught my attention when buddy Bob brought it to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite. Bob picked up the bottle at his local Total Wine beverage superstore in Boca Raton Town Center. I saw the label when there and also at the new Total Wine in Indy.

So, when son Ryan got their wine club promotional mailing and shared it I was eager to pick up a mixed case of their Signature Series Bordeaux varietals including this aged vintage release from their library close-out. My shipment just arrived and I was eager to try this. It did not disappoint.

Beau Vigne (pronounced bo-veenya), was founded by Ed and Trish Snider with their first vintage release in 2002. Translated from French it means beautiful vineyard in French.

Ed’s family has a long history in Napa Valley dating back to his Swiss Italian grandfather Martin Garzoli who arrived in Napa in 1913. He grew up on a ranch in Carneros and worked on farms in Napa and Sonoma. Martin made his own wines at home in the evenings. His son John Garzoli played for the San Francisco 49ers in 1955 and went on to coach football at St. Helena High School in the center of Napa Valley where children of many vintners attended school. A number of Ed’s former students are now in the wine industry.

In 2018, they sold Beau Vigne to Don Dady and Jason Kyle from Arizona. Jason was a former NFL football player, a long snapper for five different teams including the San Francisco 49ers. In addition to his wine interests, Jason is co-owner of Press Coffee Roasters with locations in Arizona.  Partner Dady is co-founder of Annexus, a financial company in Scottsdale and also owns Seven Apart Winery in Napa Valley just north of the city of Napa. 

Beau Vigne sourced fruit for their estate wines from their 10 acre Stags Ridge Vineyard at the top of Soda Canyon Road on the slopes of Atlas Peak at about 1650 feet elevation. The site was planted to 8 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ed sold the vineyard and it is now a part of Seven Apart Winery’s estate. Beau Vigne continues to source grapes from there and other premium vineyards in Napa Valley.

Since 2019, Beau Vigne has partnered with Appellation Trading Company to distribute Beau Vigne as part of their portfolio of brands. 

Over the years, Beau Vigne has been crafted by several highly regarded Napa Valley winemakers. Their founding winemaker was Dave Phinney who went on to develop several successful brands, most notably, Orin Swift Cellars and the Prisoner portfolio of wines. One of our favorite winemakers, Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards has also crafted Beau Vigne wines. Today the winemaker is Julien Fayard.

Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. He worked at legendary Chateaux Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite in Bordeaux before relocating to Napa Valley where he was Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before setting out on his own.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis. 

Recently, Beau Vigne became part of a select collection of vintners represented at Vintner’s Collective, the city of Napa’s oldest collective tasting room. They showcase wines from an elite group of premier Napa Valley producers who do not have their own tasting rooms. Select bottlings and vintages of Beau Vigne are available for tasting and purchased there. 

Beau Vigne bottles wines under three different brands; the Legacy Series, the Signature Series and the Discovery Series.

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2013

This 2013 is a Blend of Bordeaux varietals, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. The producer cited it amongst the best wines Beau Vigne had made to date. That says a lot since Robert Parker awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. He also awarded the Beau Vigne Reserve Cabernet from this vintage a stellar perfect 100 points.

Winemaker notes: "When tasted, it was still locked and loaded. Dense and dark, with notes of soil incense, violets, black cherry and black raspberry elements are also still present. The wine is full-bodied, opulent, with great vigor and delineation. This is a sensational example what happens after nine years in the bottle."

The Beau Vigne Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from this vintage, the same fruit that forms the foundation for this blend, was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker. 

Parker wrote about that wine: "Profound, with a stunning aromatic display of blue and black fruits, charcoal, graphite, and spring flowers. The wine has a flawless entry and mouthfeel, with a full-bodied density, opulence and an incredible finish of close to a minute."

He also awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate . That wine too contains the same Cabernet Sauvignon as in this blend. That blend contained 98:2% while this one is 70:30. Parker wrote of that wine: "Similarly styled is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Cult, which is 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. The biggest cuvée of any of these wines, the color is blackish/purple as a moonless night. It offers fabulous fruit and incredible density and richness, with lots of camphor, blackberry and cassis fruit, hints of espresso bean and chocolate as well as some background oak. This is a big, full-throttle, savory style of wine that should age effortlessly for 20-25+ years (RP)."

As a blend of the same fruit as those wines, it has a similar profile. Dark blackish purple colored, full bodied, dense, rich concentrated black fruits accented by a layer of camphor that initially may be a bit unnerving to some, with notes of cassis, expresso and dark bitter mocha with some graphite and oak on the full lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2010086

www.beauvigne.com

https://www.destinvacation.com/rentals/unit/the-cove


Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Jordan Chardonnay at Louisiana Lagniappe Destin Seafood

Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020 at Louisiana Lagniappe Destin, FL

During our getaway week to our Destiny Cove vacation rental, with our daughter and grandkids, we dined at Louisiana Lagniape on the inner Destin Harbor in Destin, FL. Louisiana Lagniappe Destin is one of our favorites and a must try for spectacular fresh seafood when in the area.

As I wrote from our last visit back in May, Louisiana Lagniappe is somewhat of an institution in Destin, FL, opened in 1984 and established inside the Sandpiper Cove condominium community on the waterfront of the Destin Harbor lagoon.  Since then, Louisiana Lagniappe has developed a loyal following due to the quality of the food and the attention to detail of the service, consistently serving only the freshest Gulf seafood and steaks prepared with a Creole flair.

 

 Lagniappe is consistently ranked in the Top 10 restaurants on TripAdvisor and wins the Award of Excellence every year. 

As is necessary to get a table, especially with a group or with kids, we arrived shortly before 5:00 pm and were seated immediately on the outside deck overlooking the waterfront. By the time we left, the huge dining room inside and all the others were full and there was a line outside waiting for tables. There was a long line of cars waiting to be parked by the valet parking associate. 

Their extensive menus offers ten appetizers, ten 'Chef's Selections', eleven 'Lagniappe Favorites', three fried seafood and four steak offerings - all served with their delicious homemade hush-puppies, house salad and twice-baked potato.

With twenty delectable mouthwatering seafood dishes Louisiana Lagniappe is a landmark for finest Seafood in the area. 

For starters we had house salads, the Lagniappe favorite Corn & Crab Bisque - A rich, cream soup with jumbo lump crabmeat and fresh yellow corn and the Oysters Lagniappe - Baked Lagniappe stuffing and jumbo lump crabmeat. Each of the entrees comes with their delectable hush puppies and a choice of twice baked potato or rice.

I love meuniere sauce preparations and they have several from which to choose. Tonight, I had the Grouper Pecan Meuniere - Fresh Gulf Grouper, pan sautéed and topped with toasted pecans and meuniere sauce. It was a bit dry, I would prefer more of the meuniere sauce. Need to ask next time!

Following the incredible Shrimp & Grits at The Red Pony in Franklin, TN, Linda went for an encore and had the Lagniappe Shrimp & Grits - Jumbo Gulf Shrimp tossed in a smoked tasso ham cream sauce served over stone-ground cheese grits. It we delicious, not as good as The Red Pony, but delicious none-the-less.

The kids shared the Lagniappe Twin Lobster Tails and Blackened Bay Scallops served with a pineapple-rum butter sauce. After a do-over due to them being far too spicy, despite being ordered non-spicy, they were fine. Generally, that aside, everything was fabulous, perfectly prepared and presented.

With our dinner we ordered from the fundamentally sound basic wine list, an old standby favorite, Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay. This provides reliable casual easy sipping with great QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020

Winemaker's Notes - "Not a typical California Chardonnay, Jordan honors the finest white Burgundy with its crisp fruit flavors, vibrant acidity and lingering finish. This balanced, elegant style of Russian River Valley Chardonnay can be cellared for 5-8 years.'

"The 2020 Chardonnay is packed with delicious aromas and flavors. The Fuji apple aromas are always the mark of a good vintage, but the way that it is interlaced with Asian pear, lemon, persimmon and white flower is what sets this vintage apart—along with its mouth-watering acidity and French oak backbone.'

"Delicate aromas of Fuji apple, freshly cut persimmon and citrus blossom entice the nose. Upon first sip, mouthwatering grapefruit and bright lime interplay on the palate. The lively acidity balances seamlessly with French oak nuances, enticing you to take another sip."

"Following fermentation and sur-lie aging in a combination of stainless steel and barrel, this wine spends five and a half months in 100% new French oak, bringing out tropical notes of pineapple and gardenia. Crisp acidity and precise minerality entertain on the bright mid-palate. Tangerine, apple, and mint are focused and edgy yet tempered by that delicate oak influence.'

"The bouquet offers delicate aromas of Fuji apple, citrus, nutmeg, honey, and lightly toasted oak. The Jordan 2020 Chardonnay delivers lively and complex flavors of Asian pear, key lime, and Marcona almond. These refined notes offer a seamless expression of rich, bold flavors with a long, elegant finish. This wine is delicious now and will continue to gain honeyed richness with an additional 3 to 5 years of aging. Serve between 55 and 60 degrees to ensure the full flavor development."

This was aged 5 months in new french oak, 100%.

 RM 89 points. 

https://www.jordanwinery.com/product/jordan-chardonnay-2020

Can't wait to return! Get there early. 

They also have a sister restaurant just across the state line on the Alabama shore at Perdido Beach in Orange Beach, AL. 

http://www.thelouisianalagniappe.com/destin/

 

 

Monday, July 10, 2023

Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz

Ben Glaetzer Anaperenna Barossa Valley Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

With grilled BBQ ribs, crescent rolls and balsamic buratta salad on the deck, I pulled from the cellar this aged Aussie Shiraz for the occasion. 

This is from producer/winemaker Ben Glaetzer whose family first settled in the Barossa Valley in 1888 after emigrating from Germany. They settled in a country town called Nuriootpa in the Barossa Valley where they were some of the earliest recorded viticulturalists in the Barossa Valley and Clare Valley.

Over a century later, winemaking patriarch Colin Glaetzer established Glaetzer Wines, a boutique family owned winery producing premium Barossa Valley wines. Today Colin’s son Ben carries on the wine making legacy and traditions at Glaetzer Wines.

My research and records show that the Glaetzer label "Godolphin" Shiraz Cabernet had it's name changed to Anaperenna between the 2005 and this 2006 vintage. Godolphin's Shiraz Cabernet name was changed to 'Anaperenna' due to a dispute or confusion of the name with another label from another producer.

Anaperenna is the same wine from the same producer/winemaker, from the same renowned vineyard sources with up to 85-year-old vines from the Ebenezer district in the northern Barossa Valley, considered by many as the finest sub-region in the Valley, with the same branding and symbol on the label as its predecessor.

The name Anaperenna is inspired by Anna Perenna, the Roman goddess of the New Year. Anna Perenna symbolised the year's cycle and her name translates as 'enduring year'. Romans honoured Anna Perenna with a festival held on the first full moon of the Roman calendar. On March 15th they would ask Anna to grant them longevity, and a healthy year for each glass of wine they drank on that day.

All Glaetzer labels are branded with a ancient historic Egyptian symbol. The Annaperenna label is the Egyptian Ankh (pronounced: onk). Historically the ankh symbolised sunrise, regeneration, regrowth and renewal.

We hold several vintages of several wines from the Glaetzer portfolio including their ultra-premium flagship wine, Amon-Ra.

Glaetzer "Anaperenna" (formerly GoDolphin) Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz-Cabernet 2006 

At seventeen years, the fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork, as shown, were in ideal condition. This is still holding its own with life left to last perhaps another five years at the apex of its drinking window. The Cellartracker drinking window was through 2023 and as a result of tonight, I extended mine to 2025. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote in 2007, "Give this classy wine 4-6 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2030." Wine Spectator (JR) wrote in 2009, "I'd give this at least another four of five years of bottle aging."

This label release was awarded 94-97 points by Wine Advocate, 94 points by James Halliday and Wine Enthusiast, 92 points by Vinous, and 91-92 points by Wine Spectator, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 on her 20 point scale (which frankly I prefer as I find it easier to encode and interpret).

Winemaker Notes - "The 2006 Shiraz (75%) – Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) "Anaperenna" is the wine formerly known as Godolphin, the change resulting from a trademark dispute. It was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak. Opaque purple, it offers a sensational bouquet of pain grille, scorched earth, meat, game, blueberry, and black currants. This is followed by a surprisingly elegant yet powerful, structured wine with gobs of spicy fruit, ripe tannins, and a plush texture. The long, 60-second finish is succulent and sweet. 

This is a blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. t was aged for 15 months in new French and American oak.

Harvey Steinman of Wine Spectator artfully noted: " ... juicy currant and cedar flavors of Cabernet whistling through the blackberry and exotic spice of the Shiraz."

This is classic Aussie style Shiraz with full dark ripe fruits blackberries, plums, and blackcurrants with layers of cassis, dark chocolate, tobacco, and hints of spices.

Tonight this was completely consistent with my last tasting notes posted on 12/6/2020  when I wrote,

"Deep inky black dark garnet-purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex, intense, concentrated black berry black raspberry and blueberry fruits with notes of graphite, cassis, pain grille, vanilla, mocha and spice turning to a long lush smooth tannin laced nicely balanced oak finish."

92 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/trio-of-south-australia-shiraz.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=399095

https://glaetzer.com/  

@GlaetzerWines

Sunday, July 9, 2023

Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2005

 Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2005 with grilled beefsteak

For Sunday night dinner at home with grilled steaks, baked potatoes and grilled asparagus spears I pulled from the cellar this Bordeaux Blend from Napa Valley. We have collected and served Trilogy from Floral Springs for decades and still hold nearly a dozen vintages dating back to 1990 in our cellar.

This is a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend that has been around for decades. Its one of the go-to wines in our cellar, one that we collect from vintage to vintage, as it represents a style we like, is reliable, produced in sufficient quantity to be generally available and provides reasonable QPR - quality price ratio, despite the fact the price has crept up precipitously over the years.

I chronicled this wine in detail back in 2020 when I wrote the following: Trilogy is Flora Springs’ flagship wine, dating back to 1984 when they decided to make the finest wine possible sourced from the highest quality wine lots from their estate vineyards in Napa Valley. Back then it was one of Napa Valley’s first proprietary red blends. 

It has long provided sophisticated drinking at good value. Indeed, the name Trilogy refers to the three primary Bordeaux varietal grapes in the blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc although they also grow and sometimes include in the blend the other Bordeaux varietals, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In line with that theme, four different generations of the branding and label imagery going back to the 1980's have all adorned the three grape varietals' leaf shapes in the label artwork.


To this day, this Bordeaux-style wine continues to be sourced from the Floral Springs Komes-Garvey estate vineyards. The Komes and Garvey’s have always been farmers first, and over the years the family has acquired 500 acres throughout Napa Valley, 300 of which are planted to vineyard. With estate properties stretching from the cool, rolling hills of Carneros to the famed sub-appellations of Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena, Flora Springs produces varietal wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the other red Bordeaux varietals.

Each year the family selects a small percentage of the yield for their own wines, selling the remaining fruit to neighboring Napa Valley wineries. This selection puts the focus on quality, not quantity, resulting in hand-crafted wines that meet the family’s exacting standards.

Flora Springs was founded by the children of Jerry and Flora Komes. Jerry and Flora were married back in 1935 in San Francisco but moved throughout California and Texas over the years as Jerry pursued an engineering career with the giant San Francisco engineering firm Bechtel. The couple had three children, Mike, John and Julie, and eventually settled back in San Francisco when Jerry settled in a corporate job in international relations at Bechtel HQ in the Bay Area.

When Jerry retired in 1976, he and Flora began looking for a place to retire in Napa Valley. They came upon a property at the end of West Zinfandel Lane in St. Helena, and Flora saw magic hidden behind the decades of neglect, overgrown ivy, and the shifting rock walls of the old ghost winery.

“There are so many wonderful things about Napa Valley and St. Helena. I just fell in love with that property and that was it.” Jerry and Flora purchased the estate believing it to be the perfect place to grow grapes and become farmers. But when their son, John, proposed that the old winery building on the property be revived, Flora Springs became a new career for Flora, Jerry and their children.

They had the wisdom and prescience to craft a Bordeaux style blend from Napa Valley sourced Bordeaux varietals in the early days as Cabernet was becoming the king of Napa Valley. 

We've collected this wine since those early days and still hold nearly a dozen vintages including bottles dating back to our kids' birthyears in 1990-91. We served those vintages at their wedding rehearsal and celebration dinner party back in 2020.

Perhaps whimsically, I latched on to this as a regular favorite partly due to the namesake that wife Linda is a descendant of the Flora family, founders of her hometown Flora, in Indiana, no relation of course to the California Napa Flora (first name) Kombs, but fun and a tribute none-the-less.

To this day, Trilogy is a mainstay go to label in our cellar offering quality sophisticated drinking at reasonable value relative to the premium Napa and Bordeaux Blends. Hence, to fulfill the urge for a Bordeaux with our steak on this evening, we opened this nearly two decade old Trilogy.

Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2005

Perfect complement to grilled steak.  

At eighteen years, the fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork, as shown, were in ideal condition. This is still holding its own with life left although likely at the end of the apex of its drinking window and won't improve with further aging. 

This was the 30th anniversary wine of producer Flora Springs, their flagship Trilogy is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. It was aged for 22 months in 100% new French Oak.

This release was sourced from Flora Springs estate vineyards on the bench of the Mayacamas in the farthest northwest corner of the Rutherford appellation.

Winemaker Notes - "In 1984, we set out to make the best wine possible by hand-selecting the highest quality lots from our estate vineyards. Using a blend of three Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot - we created Trilogy, one of the original Meritage wines.'

"Flora Springs has built its legacy on beautiful and complex wines that can be enjoyed either as young and vibrant or as cellared and graceful. The 2005 Trilogy may be our boldest statement yet. It exhibits all the classic Trilogy attributes with a lovely cassis and cherry bouquet as well as huge black fruit flavors that envelope the palate. Each varietal is vital to the outcome - the Cabernet exhibits black cherry and dark cocoa character, while the Merlot carries these flavors to the back of the palate where the Cabernet Franc adds notes of coffee and toffee to the finish. Unrelenting with power and grace, the 2005 Trilogy is the perfect wine to mark Flora Springs' 30th anniversary year."

This release was awarded 95 points and Editors' Choice by Wine Enthusiast and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Dark garnet colored with a some purple and very slight amount of rust hue starting to set in, full-bodied, dry, rich, complex, nicely balanced integrated flavors dark berries and currants, with notes of dark cocoa, graphite, leather, tobacco leaf, cedar and spice with lingering firm but refined tannins.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=340749

https://www.florasprings.com/  

@FloraSprings

Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Lede To Kalon and Greywacke showcase 4th of July Celebration

Cliff  Lede To Kalon and Greywacke highlight 4th of July Celebration

Son Ryan hosted family and friends for a gala 4th of July celebration in what is becoming somewhat of an annual tradition. He pulled from his cellar some favorites, new discoveries and classics to accompany the BBQ feast. 

The kids/siblings .... 

It was also a dual celebration of grand-daughter Marleigh's birthday. 

 
Birthday girl face-paint.
 
First Fourth for newest grand-child/cousin Lilac.
 
Ryan and Michelle served BBQ, beef brisket, corn on the cob, mac-n-cheese and assorted salads,


Linda prepared a special 4th of July dessert, 'cherry bombs'.


And friends and neighbors brought assorted cheese and charcuterie plates, desserts and accompaniments. 


 
Entertainment consisted of a giant bounce house, serious competitive 'bags' ...
 
 
 
... and of course the traditional festive 4th of July fireworks. 

The wine flight included Sauvignon Blanc, a Bordeaux white blend, Rose, and a selection of Reds. 

 Greywacke Marlborough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022

A standout and one of Ryan's favorites for this category, this is from the Marlborough region in New Zealand, Greywacke (pronounced “grey-wacky”), named for New Zealand’s bedrock. where there is an abundance of these so-named river stones in the soil.

Producer/winemaker  Kevin Judd has contributed to and benefited from the expanding global popularity of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Unveiled in 2009, Greywacke was originally launched as the name of the Judds’ first vineyard in Rapaura. Living in the Omaka Valley overlooking Marlborough’s vineyards, Kevin sources fruit from vineyards in the central Wairau Plains and the Southern Valleys.

Marlborough is the leading region producing New Zealand's distinctive style of Sauvignon blanc, it's  unique terroir produce high quality grapes comprising 90% of New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc production. Situated at the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island, the vineyards of Marlborough benefit from well-draining, stony soils, a dry, sunny climate and wide temperature fluctuations between day and night, a phenomenon that supports a perfect balance between berry ripeness and acidity.

The region’s primary variety is Sauvignon Blanc but also produces fruit-forward Pinot Noirs (especially where soils are clay-rich), elegant Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer.

Winemaker Notes - Aromas of cassis and passionfruit are first to emerge, with guava, crisp pear and white peach adding a delicious intricacy. On the palate, it is generous yet refreshing, with ripe pineapple and a lime sherbet zing, layered with elderflower and hints of citrus blossom. A classic example of Greywacke’s interpretation of the famous Marlborough style - ripe, textural and scruptious, with the volume turned well down.

This was awarded 95 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Vinous. 

Straw colored, light-medium bodied, complex, rich, smooth, nicely balanced acidity, notes of lemon, pineapple, passionfruit, mango and stone fruit flavors with hints of spice and florals, with lingering long, expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4512936

Château Latour-Martillac Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2019

This Bordeaux Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend is from Pessac-Léognan on the Left Bank, recognized for its superior reds as well as whites, Pessac-Léognan claims classified growths for both—making it quite unique in comparison to its neighboring Médoc properties. This is in the  little town of Martillac, just to the south-east of Léognan on the fringe of the city of regional anchor and namesake Bordeaux.

The Château Latour-Martillac estate takes its name from the tower which stands in the main courtyard of the château; the remnant of a fort built in the 12th century by the ancestors of Montesquieu. The structure occupied a strategic position and controlled the route between Bordeaux and Toulouse. Stones of the fort were used to build the existing château at the end of the 18th century.

In 1871, the estate was promoted by Bordeaux wine merchant Edouard Kressmann, attracted by the quality of the white wines grown on a remarkable gravelly hilltop with marked relief and outstanding exposure. Edouard's eldest son Alfred Kressmann, acquired the property in 1930 and changed the name to avoid confusion with the famous first growth namesake of the Medoc thereby Chateau Latour became Chateau LaTour-Martillac. 

Alfred Kressmann embarked on a long period of reconstruction, adding Cabernet Sauvignon to the Merlot already in place in the 30 acre vineyard which was planted primarily in white wine grapes, without touching the oldest plots. 

At the beginning of the 1930’s, Alfred Kressmann and his son Jean redesigned the label for their new vintage, inspired by the Art Deco movement which was very in vogue at that time. Their design with the gold and sandy stripes adorns the bottles to this day.

The wines of Château LaTour-Martillac gained widespread attention - the 1934 red vintage was selected by the "Wine and Spirit Benevolent Society" of London for the celebration of the coronation of His Majesty King George the VI, King of England in December 1936.

Jean achieved the family dream by acquiring the gravel slope vineyard which separated the property from the village, thereby extending the plantings to nearly 75 acres.

Today, the domain and is owned and managed by the six children of Jean Kressmann. - Tristan and Loïc, the two younger sons, manage the estate with the assistance of the best wine consultants in Bordeaux. Since the 1980’s, they have increased the area planted in Sauvignon Blanc to compliment the Semillon, the historical grape variety of the property. With one of the best gravel plots of the plateau of Martillac they produce the some of the best white wines from the Graves region. 

The Classified Growths of the Graves, long sought by the Winemakers Syndicate of the Graves, was established when the classification of Grave wines finally took place in 1953 under the authority of the National Institute of Designation of Origin. The classification recognised 16 châteaux, all in the north of the Graves region. Château LaTour-Martillac is one of only six properties classified for both red and white wines.

On the Martillac plateau, the hill dominates the property and is made up of a patchwork of gravel. These little pebbles deposited there by the river Garonne in the Quaternary period form a finely tuned mix of Quartz, Lydian, Jasper and Flint. These poor soils and drainage constitute an ideal terrain for the vine and in particular for the red grape varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Moving closer to the Garonne, the soils take on a different profile of clay and limestone, still with a gravel surface.
It is here that the Merlot variety grows best and also our white grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. 

In 2020, a new red wine cellar was constructed with a new vat room equipped with environmentally efficient stainless steel tanks.

Château Latour-Martillac has an extensive hospitality program offering a wide range of tastings and tours at the estate.

Winemaker notes: "The 2019 Latour-Martillac is pale yellow color with sparkling highlights and has complex aromas of both floral (verbena, honeysuckle) and some exotic fruits (passion fruit) and lemon. The palate is beautifully fresh and is balanced by a delicious creaminess. In the mouth, there is elegance with the same complex, fruity aromas of white peach and ripe apricots as well as the floral note of verbena and fresh mint."

The 2019 Latour-Martillac Blanc is 58% Sauvignon Blanc og 42% Sémillon.

It was widely reviewed, awarded 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 by Wine Enthusiast, 93 by Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 92 points by Wine Spectator and Wine Cellar Insider, and 91 by Decanter.

Straw colored, medium full bodied, rich concentrated, sprites of grapefruit, lemon citrus, hints of  yellow apples and peaches with notes of what Wine Advocate calls "baking bread, almonds and spice cake".

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3661034

https://www.latourmartillac.com/

Mollydooker Blue Eye'd Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018

This has become one of our family favorites, signature tribute wine to Son Alec (our blue eye'd boy). We whimsically open this as one of our favorite labels, a signature label for son Alec, Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah from Mollydooker, at family occasions.

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis.  I chronicled Mollydooker brand and portfolio in a recent blogpost

As I wrote in that blogpost, the Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

We love this full-throttle shiraz and collect it as part of our Mollydooker portfolio and as part of our Alec collection of labels we keep on hand to toast son Alec. We served an earlier vintage release of this wine at a graduation celebration for Alec back in his college apartment.

This is sourced from several select Vineyards in the McLaren Vale region:Coppermine Road, Gateway, Long Gully Road & Mollydooker Home, Langhorne Creek and Joppich. McLaren Vale might be one of the smaller South Australian wine regions, but it packs a big punch. Nestled between the city of Adelaide, the Sellicks Hill mountain range and the Gulf of St. Vincent, McLaren Vale is the source of some of Australia’s most intensely-flavored red wines and similarly powerful white wines.

With a mix of stony bluffs and undulating plains, dry valley winds and balmy sea breezes, the McLaren Vale region offers a wide range of soils and microclimates. Accordingly, local winemakers have found a variety of grapes that flourish there: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, with Shiraz covering fully half of the region. Alternative grape varieties from Spain and Italy are increasingly in the McLaren Vale mix, too.

Early in the country’s history, McLaren Vale was the premier Australian wine region. English settler John Reynell was the first to plant grapes there – in fact, the first in all of South Australia – in 1838. Other winemakers whose names echo in the present-day industry, including Thomas Hardy and Rawson Penfold, followed soon after. Old vines thrive in McLaren Vale, with some more than 100 years old still producing high-quality wines.

Winemaker Notes for this label release - "The delicious berry fruit and spice flavors of the cooler climate wine from the Joppich Vineyard in Langhorne Creek gives the Blue Eyed Boy its crowd appeal. We blend it with McLaren Vale Shiraz to add intensity, vibrancy and richness. This Shiraz is bursting with generous with amounts of fresh plum and blueberry, accompanied by spice and licorice all sorts. Supple texture and a creamy finish features layers of biscuit cream and espresso coffee. A well weighted wine with a truly elegant finish."

"The colour and fragrance of plum provide an alluring first glance, with gentle notes of strawberry and mocha filling the aroma. Expressive, rich fruit adds elements of blueberries and molten chocolate, while subtle tannins create a silky mouthfeel. The great intensity and complexity of our 2018 Blue Eyed Boy is no exception to its past."

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

It was barrel fermented and matured in 100% American oak; 58% new; 42% one year old.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, concentrated and intense, dense, rich blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dark-chocolate, vanilla, tobacco, spicy clove and hints of pepper notes with a long, tongue coating finish.
 
RM 92 points.
 

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

Cliff Lede "Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard" Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

 Napa Valley To Kalon Beckstoffer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This is the ultra-premium label of the evening, one of the flagship top labels of the Cliff Lede portfolio. This was also a bit of a paradox, we probably opened too soon, this needs several more years of bottle age to settle, integrate, and come together. Indeed, Jeb Dunnuck said "this is another magical wine from this estate that will evolve for 20-25 years if stored correctly." Decanter says, "The wine has the structure for long ageing. Only time in the cellar will tell if it nicely sheds its baby fat and becomes something wholly intriguing."

This is a single vineyard designated label sourced from the legendary Napa Valley To Kalon Beckstoffer Vineyard, home to some of the premiere labels from Napa Valley top producers. As the rear label indicates, this is sourced from the Beckstoffer family's portion of the revered H.W. Crabb vineyard that dates back to the original Hermosa Vineyard developed in 1868, often considered one of Napa Valley's 'first growth' vineyards.

The Lede website says this of To Kalon Beckstoffer: "Situated on the western Oakville bench, the celebrated Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard has gravelly loam soils with high mineral content derived from sedimentary deposits of the volcanic Mayacamas Mountains and the alluvial fan of the Napa River. The vineyard has low organic matter content and thorough drainage, which devigorates the vines and produces small berries that are ideal for wines with intense concentration. The site is warm and sunny throughout the day, but cooled by late afternoon breezes, producing ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with lovely acidity. The blocks that make up our blend represent a diverse array of the Beckstoffer To Kalon terroir and clonal selection, creating a unique and extraordinary wine from this critically praised site." 

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of three clones off this historic ranch.

 This wine underwent twenty-one months of élevage in French oak barrels, 78% of which were new.

Winemaker notes - The deep dark ruby colored 2019 Beckstoffer To Kalon boasts a brooding perfume of sultry violets, wild blackberry, and black figs. Red currant, black cherry, and mulberry preserve flavors dominate the entry tinged with cool menthol and bay laurel notes.

This label release was awarded a near perfect 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, sequentially, 98 points by Wine Advocate, 97 points by Decanter, 96 points Vinous, and 95 points by James Suckling, and 93 points by Wine Spectator. The broad range of reviews is testament to the points its all in the eye's of the beholder.

We found this a bit awkward, slightly obtuse, with some green notes that burned off after a half hour, but this definitely needs some time to settle and integrate with some more bottle aging.

Decanter says "The wine has the structure for long ageing. Only time in the cellar will tell if it nicely sheds its baby fat and becomes something wholly intriguing."

It was dark garnet colored with inky purple hues, medium full bodied, intense, concentrated forward blackberry,  mulberry and ripe plum fruits with tones of cassis, herbs, earthy leather and tobacco with hints of cinnamon spice, menthol and cedar turning to fine grained tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4235934

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

https://cliffledevineyards.com/wines/2019-cliff-lede-cabernet-sauvignon-beckstoffer-to-kalon/

Sunday, July 2, 2023

Lang & Reed Two-Fourteen Napa Cabernet Franc

Lang & Reed "Two-Fourteen" Napa Valley Cabernet Franc with grilled pizza

We had three of our grandsons for the day so Linda prepared pizzas on the grill. I pulled from our cellar a 'pizza wine' to pair for the occasion, a bold fruit forward wine that is not so complex or nuanced as to not be appreciated with the tangy pizza. I selected this aged Cabernet Franc which proved ideal for the occasion.

Lang & Reed Two-Fourteen Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2014

I wrote last year that I've seen this label many times over the years but admit I believe that was my first initiation to a wine from this producer. I must say I was impressed and will pay more attention to this label in the future. 

The remainder of that blogpost from that earlier tasting

I am a fan of Cabernet Franc and will put this on my watch list for expressive wine drinking from a producer who appreciates and focuses on the varietal that is normally reserved for but a fraction of a Bordeaux blend, usually included to introduce color and structure.

This is produced by Tracey & John Skupny, who started Lang & Reed Napa Valley in 1993 with the goal to explore the distinct charms of Cabernet Franc and to craft wines that are both expressive and enjoyable to drink.

Their wine experience spans nearly a half century working in the restaurant trade in Kansas City as wine stewards (sommeliers). They pursued their passion for wine and moved to California in 1980, eventually settling in Napa Valley in 1984.

They were intrigued with the distinction of Cabernet Franc, one of the noble varietals from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux wine regions of France. Cabernet Franc is a foundation key varietal in Bordeaux red wine blends, included to contribute aromatics and robust flavors to round out and extend the tasting profile of the blend.  

In 1993, Lang & Reed Napa Valley was born with a focus on Cabernet Franc. Named after their two sons, J Reed and Jerzy Lang, Lang & Reed Napa Valley is family owned and operated. Through their winemaking, their wines tell their family story of a life dedicated to family working together to craft artisan wines.

Through exploration and investigation of all things ‘Cabernet Franc’, they selected Clone 214 that originated in the Loire Valley of France, home to some of the worlds’ most renowned Cabernet Franc vineyards and producers. 

In 2007 they selected the Sugarloaf Vineyard in the southeastern corner of Napa Valley, located on a hillside slope with ideal rocky soils with moderate temperatures and cooling breezes that emanate from the nearby northern reaches of San Francisco Bay. 

This new world climate combined with this old world Loire Clone 214 is the basis for Lang & Reed ‘Two-Fourteen’ Cabernet Franc, the only known bottling of this unique clone in California. 

Today, they work closely with grape growers to combine the appropriate clones grown in the soil and terroir and apply growing techniques to achieve the most desirable attributes they seek. They source grapes from vineyards in Napa Valley, Alexander Valley, and Lake County.

Winemaker notes: "This is the eighth vintage of the Lang & Reed ‘Two-Fourteen’ Cabernet Franc and, true to type, this wine shows a persistent purity of aromas and flavors.  At first scent, this wine shows a nice burst of raspberry and blueberry, with a top note of violet and  a  backdrop  of  savory  herbaceousness.    The  palate  is  medium  bodied  with  beautiful  Cabernet  Franc  purity,  texture,  and  length.    Though  very  appealing  for  immediate  pleasure,  the  structural  elements  will  allow  this  wine  to  age  gracefully for the next 7 to 10 years."

This is composed of 100% Cabernet Franc, the Loire Entav Clone 214, sourced solely from the Napa Valley Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard. The wine is aged 16 Months in French Oak Barrels. 849 Cases were produced. 

This was rated 93 Points by Wine Spectator, 92 Points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 Points by Wine Advocate. James Laube of Wine Spectator says its "Best  from  2020  through  2030.”

The fill level, label, foil, and most importantly the cork were all in perfect condition. The cork was inky black at the wine contact end. It was so tight that I opted to use a traditional cork screw for extraction, rather than my customary 'ah-so' two pronged cork puller, although I inserted and used the lead pronge to loosen the cork to ease removal.

We still have a few more bottles of this and at going on ten years, this is likely at or just passing the apex of its drinking window. It should be consumed over the next couple of years. 

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, forward full expressive ripe dark berry fruits with tangy spice and herbs, notes of tea and hints of cedar and oak with a moderate tannin lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2536985

https://langandreed.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/trio-of-big-reds-for-hearty-wine-tasting.html