Old and New big reds for family celebration party

Old and New big reds for family celebration party

Alec and Vivianna hosted a gala first birthday party for Marylin. They served a broad selection of foods including Salmon and beef tenderloin, along with salads, shrimp, and a broad selection of artisan cheeses, charcuterie and dips.

Afterwards we had two birthday cakes, a white cake and a chocolate cake, also to celebrate Linda's birthday. 

The occasion was an opportunity for all the family to gather, along with many of their friends and families. 

On the eve of the NBA All-Star game, and the day our Indiana Hoosiers, and rival fellow Hoosier Purdue Boilermakers are the only Big Ten teams nationally ranked, the day also called for a serious pop-a-shot tournament, first by the kids, and then the adults. 

I brought from our cellar an aged Napa Cabernet Reserve from Alec's birthyear vintage, a fitting tribute to the occasion. Alec served a selection of reds, a white and Rose' from his cellar. 

Flora Springs Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1990

We collect many wines in our cellar that are family affairs, such that we favor them with family outings such as this. 

One family winery who's wines we collect is Flora Springs and their Komes-Garvey estate vineyards. The Komes and Garvey’s family have acquired 500 acres throughout Napa Valley, 300 of which are planted to vineyards. With estate properties stretching from the cool, rolling hills of Carneros to the famed sub-appellations of Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena, Flora Springs produces varietal wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the other red Bordeaux varietals.

Flora Springs was founded by the children of Jerry and Flora Komes who bought the property at the end of West Zinfandel Lane in St. Helena believing it to be the perfect place to grow grapes and become farmers. But when their son, John, proposed that the old winery building on the property be revived, Flora Springs became a new career for Flora, Jerry and their children.

They may be best known for their label, Trilogy which is a mainstay go to label in our cellar offering quality sophisticated drinking at reasonable value relative to the premium Napa and Bordeaux Blends. This label is a Reserve bottling of their single varietal Cabernet.

 They started producing Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in 1989 reaching production of 700 cases. Their 1991 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 96 points by Wine Spectator and was called 'stunning' by Robert Parker. 

Perhaps whimsically, I latched on to this as a regular favorite partly due to the namesake that wife Linda is a descendant of the Flora family, founders of her hometown Flora, in Indiana, no relation of course to the California Napa Flora (first name) Kombs. but fun and a tribute none-the-less.At thirty-three years, this was holding up amazingly well, still within its drinking window and only beginning to show diminution from age with slight discoloration and haziness. Never-the-less the fruit was vibrant and after decanting and settling for an hour, it was very tasty and pleasant drinking. 

The fill level, foil, label and importantly, the cork, were all in ideal condition, considering their age. The cork was pristine and held together well when extracted using an Ahso two pronged cork puller.

Dark garnet colored with a slight brownish gray hue started to set in showing its age, medium bodied, complex, concentrated blackberry and plum fruits with layers of currant, mocha, anise, leather, sage herbs and hints of eucalyptus. on a long finish of bright acidity and ripe tannins. Time to drink and we caught this just in time. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=151440

https://www.florasprings.com/

https://twitter.com/FloraSprings

 

Alec then pulled from his cellar a recent acquisition, this premium single vineyard designated Big Red from Napa Valley Stags Leap District. 

Mira Schweizer Vineyard Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

 

This is the handicraft of Co-Founder/Winemaker Gustavo A. Gonzalez and co-founder Jim “Bear” Dyke, Jr., consultant and lobbyist. A chance meeting at the Off The Record bar in Washington, D.C., lead to their joint pursuit of the dream of creating a world class winery. In 2009, the duo sourced their first grapes and in 2012 Mira went to market. 

They are joined by Ed Thralls who came to Mira with 25 years of experience in both wine and financial technology industries. Having studied winemaking at UC Davis and earning a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), he has served as General Manager for a Sonoma premier producer. Ed had his own winery, Thralls Family Cellars, producing premium Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, Syrah and Chardonnay. Prior to that, he served as the director at Flowers Vineyards & Winery and Huneeus Vintners.

Mira Winery is named for the Latin root of “miracle” and Greek for “destiny”. It is a family owned, 16-acre estate in the heart of the Napa Valley, farming historic vineyards that were first planted to grapes in 1885. 

Gustavo A Gonzalez has been practicing his craft in the Napa Valley and around the world to critical acclaim for over 20 years, in California, Italy, France, Argentina, and Brazil. He brings local knowledge and global perspective, experience and creativity to Mira’s vineyard practices and winemaking techniques.

Gustavo’s grew up in California’s Central Valley, surrounded by family with longstanding ties to agriculture and an appreciation for wine. His appreciation for winemaking took him to the Napa Valley where he joined the Robert Mondavi Winery in 1995 working in the fields towards a career in winemaking. For 17 years at Robert Mondavi Winery, Gustavo worked his way up to Head Red Winemaker where he established Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as one of the leading Napa Valley Cabernets, consistently receiving Wine Spectator ratings of 95 or higher. 

There he also produced some of the best Sauternes style wine of the new world and raised the Pinot Noir program to cult status. During this time, he also worked with other notable wineries around the world including Tenuta dell’Ornellaia where he was responsible for the 2001 “Masseto” Toscana which received 100 points from Wine Spector and was described by James Suckling as, “possibly the best Tuscan red ever.”

Gustavo’s strong relationships with leading Napa Valley grape growers brought Mira unique access to some of the finest blocks of grapes in some of the Napa Valley’s premier vineyards including Hyde Vineyard in the Carneros AVA and Schweizer Vineyard in the heart of the Stags Leap AVA.

Gustavo has established Mira as one of the top producers of small production single vineyard wines from the Napa Valley. At a blind tasting commemorating the historic Judgement of Paris featuring eight of the world’s top wines from Bordeaux and the Napa Valley, the 2012 Mira Cabernet Sauvignon Schweizer Vineyard took the top slot for Napa Valley Cabernet besting Screaming Eagle, Schrader To Kalon, and Shafer Hillside Select.

Mira produce a dozen premium labels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Bordeaux varietal red and white blends sourced from leading Napa growers.  

Mira Cabernet Sauvignon Schweizer Vineyard 2016 

This is from Schweizer Vineyard, one of the oldest in Napa Valley, that has been producing grapes for premier wines for over 100 years and has been owned by the Schweizer family since 1956. The historic 42-acre vineyard in the heart of Stags Leap District has ideal terroir for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. It combines excellent draining Perkins Gravelly Loam soil with a microclimate of great afternoon sun due to its position on the east side of the valley and ideal hot days and cool nights. As a result, Schweizer Vineyard is among the world’s top locations to grow Cabernet Sauvignon.
 

Winemaker notes: "A level of refinement on the nose that defies easy description, evoking the best of the “Grand Cru” tradition. Smooth despite tremendous structure, on the palate the wine’s essential fruit character underlies layers of earthy, forest floor notes. Already extremely complex, this wine is destined for a profound journey in the cellar."

This release was awarded 97 Points in the Sunset International Wine Competition, 95 Points by Wine Enthusiast, 92 Points by James Suckling, and 91 Points by Wine Spectator.  

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, concentrated ripe blackberry and currant fruits, earth, tobacco, dark bitter mocha chocolate, vanilla and spice notes with hints of cedar and on a long expressive acid tinged finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4093038

https://miranapa.com/

https://twitter.com/mirawinery

Uriah Spring Valley Red Blend 2015

 Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Red Blend

Wife Linda's friends took her out to lunch for her birthday at local popular trattoria Gia Mia in Naperville. She brought back for me, take-out, one of my favorite dishes from there, their Meatballs al Forno, Veal Meatballs with Creamy Polenta and Roasted Tomato Sauce.

I picked up some artisan cheeses including Raclette cheese which was featured in our spectacular dinner the other night at 3-Michelin Star Alinea restaurant, that we were eager to try. 

For this favored meal combination, for a nice relaxed evening dinner together, I pulled from the cellar one of my favorite drinking Right Bank Bordeaux varietal blends from one of our favorite producers, Spring Valley Vineyards. 

We visited Spring Valley during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, namesake for this label. Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience, especially since he has since passed on. We posted a Tribute to Dean Derby and memorium of that visit - Spring Valley Vineyard toward the end of 2021. 

All of the Spring Valley wines are named for one of the ancestral or current family members. Spring Valley Vineyard wines are all produced from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington.

Washington State and regional powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates purchased the winery and the brand from the Derby family recently, but they continue to own and operate the vineyards.

The complete lineup of Spring Valley wines featuring the family member labels is featured in a boxed set. Shown is our set commemorating the 2013 vintage releases.

Spring Valley Vineyards Uriah Red Blend 2015

The Spring Valley Vineyards adjacent to the
farmstead site

This label, Uriah, is named for the Spring Valley Vineyards founder Uriah Corkrum, grandfather of matriarch Shari Corkrum Derby. Born in Walla Walla on June 1, 1866, he began successfully farming on his own during the 1880s. Unusual summer rain kept him from getting his harvested wheat to the warehouse so he lost everything in the depression of 1893. He persevered and, in 1897, acquired land in the area known as Spring Valley that is the site of the vineyards today. Uriah is featured on the flagship label Uriah Spring Valley Red Blend. This is our favorite label from the Spring Valley portfolio. 

This is 100% sourced from Spring Valley Vineyards in the wind-shaped Palouse Hills 12 miles northeast of Walla Walla, amid the picturesque wheat fields of southeastern Washington and the Blue Mountains in the distance. The initial block of Merlot was planted in 1993 on a southern hillside facing southwest. The vines follow the north-south slope of the hills in vertical rows, an orientation that when combined with the declination of the slope, allows the vines to take optimal advantage of air drainage, sunshine, and the reflective nature of the surrounding wheat fields.

The 2015 vintage was one of the warmest growing seasons on record in Washington. Warm temperatures continued through the spring and summer, moderating slightly into fall and extending an early harvest. Overall, 2015 saw very favorable growing conditions, producing optimal ripening across varieties and yielding outstanding wines throughout the region.

This label, Uriah, is a Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, meaning it is predominantly Merlot based rather than Cabernet, complemented by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. This release has a high percentage of Cabernet Franc which provides spiciness and bright flavor sprites.

This 2015 release is a blend or Bordeaux varietals, 43% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. It was aged 18 months in 100% French oak, 40% new.

Winemaker Tasting Notes: “Our most terroir driven blend, mostly Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A rich wine coming from one of the warmest harvests. The tannins are velvety and the finish is long and soft.”
~ Serge Laville, Winemaker.

This was rated 93 Points by Wine & Spirits, 92 Points by James Suckling, 91 Points by Wine Spectator, and 90 points by Sean Sullivan of Wine Advocate. 

We hold half dozen vintages of this label and pulled the oldest vintage as part of effective cellar management rotation. 

At eight years this is probably at its peak, the apex of its drinking profile, not likely to improve further with aging, but certainly to age gracefully for another decade if you're patient enough to keep it that long. 

Bright garnet colored, medium bodied, elegant polished, rich but approachable for pleasant but sophisticated drinking, its right-bank style blend shows vibrant black berry and dark plum fruits with notes of cassis, spice, floral and hints of balsamic and herbs with dusty minerality with polished soft tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2648699

Linked referenced in this blog:

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/spring-valley-vineyards-tasting-and.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/11/spring-valley-vineyards-nina-syrah-2017.html

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René Couly Cabernet Franc 2021

We very rarely do Rose' wines but opened this one with some hearty artisan cheeses we picked up that were said to favor such wines. I was intrigued by this label that is 100% Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux varietal normally produced as a bold spicy red wine or in the blend to add color, structure and spicy flavors.  We served an aged Gouda, a Havarti and a Raclette cheese which we discovered when it was featured in our spectacular dinner the other night at 3-Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant.

Domaine Couly Dutheil is managed by Arnaud Couly Dutheil, great-grandson of Baptiste Dutheil who founded the Domaine in 1921. Established by Baptiste Dutheil, then developed by René Couly who married Madeleine Dutheil, the House of Couly-Dutheil has become over the years one of the great name for Chinon wines. Today, Couly-Dutheil remains a family house owned by the third and fourth generation. 

 

The Chinon appellation surrounds the historic town of Chinon, and encompasses 26 communes on both sides of the Vienne River, a tributary of the Loire, up to the point where it joins the Loire. The terroir consists of alluvial terraces of sand and gravel that were deposited by the Vienne . The region enjoys a temperate climate of semi-oceanic type favorable to the cultivation of wine.

 

The Chinon region terroir has all the qualities of the greatest soils, semi-oceanic climate that is exceptionally mild and benefits of long sunny periods. The variety of soils and their particular qualities allows the Cabernet Franc (98% of the vineyard plantings) to express all its fineness and its celebrated “taffetas” within a range of strong personalities. 

 

The Couly Dutheil Estate owns 235 aeres of vineyards in Chinon and 17 acres in Turquant, in the Saumur and Saumur Champigny appellations. The best plots of the Domaine are a showcase of the different terroirs of the Chinon appellation.  

The Domaine contains the famous “Clos de l'Olive” and “Clos de L’Echo” vineyards. Monopole Couly Dutheil Clos de l'Echo and Clos de l'Olive located opposite the fortress of Chinon, on clay-limestone soils, with the presence of blue clays, the same ones that made the reputation of the legendary Pétrus.  

 

Domaine Couly Dutheil is best known for three powerful and complex cuvées, from plots planted with vines aged 50 years and over: Clos de L'Echo, Clos de L'Olive and Clos de l'Echo Crescendo. These three cuvées have achieved a worldwide reputation. 

 

While Couly Dutheil is most known for its Chinon rosé, they also produce white wines, a rarity for the Chinon appellation. Chinon blanc Les Chanteaux: exclusively from Chenin, a cuvée that requires 3 to 4 sortings produces a “tender dry” wine with aromas of white fruits and citrus fruits. 

 

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René Couly Cabernet Franc 2021 

 

Chinon Rosé René Couly is produced by pressing the grapes, selected from a parcel  exclusively in Chinon. It produces a wine described by the winemaker: "lovely pink color, with a fresh and fruity nose showing floral notes. A fruited palate with persistent and refreshing flavors, this wine is well-balanced, easy to drink and elegant. Delightfully aromatic and showcasing the classic structure associated with the Chinon terroir, this rosé wine is perfectly suited to enjoy as an aperitif and to accompany a meal. Can be kept for two or three years."

Wine pundit Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast says, "Pure Cabernet Franc gives this wine both its smooth texture and perfumed character. Vanilla and ripe strawberry fruits make a comfortable mélange of flavors. Drink the wine now". Roger Voss WE 87 points. 

Pink colored, light medium bodied, aromatic with floral and stone fruit notes, nicely balanced for pleasant easy drinking although it is firmly structured such that it could be an aperitif or stand up to food or hearty cheese. Such was the case tonight and it proved to be a wise choice for pairing.

 

RM 88 points 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4325603
 

https://www.coulydutheil-chinon.com/

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend with Beef Bourgogne

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend with Beef Bourgogne

Linda prepared a delicious hearty beef bourgogne stew and I wanted a proper wine to pair for the occasion - something big and bold, but not overpowering, and complex to meld with the breadth and depth of flavors. I chose this Parvata Rhone varietal red blend from Force Majeure for its complexity of the blend.

We first featured this label in our Force Majeure Vineyards Site Visit and Tasting report.

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend 2017

We originally discovered and acquired this label during our visit to Force Majeure in Walla Walla back in 2018. We hold three vintages of a mixed case from our wine club allocation orders.   

This is from their Force Majeaure Red Mountain Vineyard site in the central Columbia Valley. The Red Mountain site was the very first vineyard on the steep, rocky upper slopes of Red Mountain. Developing the Red Mountain estate vineyards involved carefully matching varietal and clonal selections and vineyard trellising and irrigation to the eight distinct soil types in the vineyard.

Parvata means “mountain” in sanskrit, and hence is the name for Force Majeure's southern Rhône style blend, grown in the sandy, loamy soils of the lower section of the Red Mountain vineyard.

Parvata is a a classic Rhone River Blend that the French, and in the new World, the Australians, call GSM, for the blend of the three Rhone varietals, (25%) Grenache, (23%) Syrah, and (42%) Mourvedre. 

But this 2017 Parvata is a blend of Rhone varietals, somewhere between a GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and a CDP (Chateauneuf-du-Pape of which 70% is typicall GSM, the total can be from a possible thirteen sanctioned varietals). This release is 42% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and 'lesser' varietals, 4% Cinsault and 5% Counoie - 100% sourced from the Force Majeure Red Mountain Estate vineyard.

We've posted blogspots of the 2015 and 2016 releases but this is our first tasting of the 2017 release. It seems to be less fruit forward than the earlier releases. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, this is black fruits accented by white pepper, dried herbs, leather and tobacco notes with bright lively acidity.

RM 92 points.

The 2015 seemed to more fruit forward, more the style we love, with its dark blackish garnet purple colored, full bodied, rich unctuous concentrated black and blue fruits accented by white pepper and tones of dried herbs with bright lively acidity.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3519567

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/force-majeure-vineyards-site-visit-and.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2659538

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/ 

@ForceMVineyards 

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/

Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré

Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré

Still basking in the high of our spectacular dinner at 3-Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant, I wanted a special wine to enjoy with left over grilled ribeye beefsteak from our wine dinner the other evening, sliced and served as charcuterie with some artisan cheeses and a wedge salad, I pulled from the cellar this perennial favorite producer label from Château Léoville Poyferré.

Our visit and tour of Château Leoville Poyferré in St Julien Bordeaux was one of the highlights of our our trip to the region back in 2019, hence I was eager to taste this moderately aged release of this label.  And having just met owner/producer Anne Cuvelier from the storied family at the recent UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour tasting Chicago 2023, this was a perfect label to revisit those special memories. 

This is the second wine of the famous Cru Classé Château Léoville Poyferré, Pavillon is produced from the youngest vines of the famous estate. Bordering some of the most prestigious Bordeaux estates such as Pichon Baron and Léoville Las Cases, Chateau Leoville Poyferre has a long history dating back to the early 17th century. The company, located in the Saint-Julien appellation, is owned by the Cuvelier family and is widely famous for the elegance of its wines. The vineyards benefit from a terroir renowned for its gravel soils of the Garonne, which guarantees ideal conditions for growing grapes. The practices in the cellar are followed by the famous winemaker Michel Rolland as consultant advisor. 

The origin of Léoville goes back to 1638. Following various divisions and successions, Léoville Poyferré was born in 1840. In the 1855 classification of Médoc wines, it was endowed with the rank of Second Grand Cru Classé. 

The Cuvelier family acquired second growth Château Léoville Poyferré in 1920, which covers 143 acres, as well as Château Moulin Riche  comprising 43 acres. Located in the prestigious Saint-Julien appellation, the vineyards covers the different types of gravelly soils, which contribute to the amplitude and complexity of the wines. 

Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré St Julien Bordeaux 2015

Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré is the second wine of both châteaux, sourced from the younger vines. It is a classic Left Bank Bordeaux blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, which is aged in third-passage barrels for nine months. The result is a more accessible, fruity, and easy-drinking wine, that is approachable at a young age for early gratification. 

This release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling, and 90 points by Lisa Perotti-Brown of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Bright garnet-purple  colored, medium body, complex, concentrated intensity yet elegant and nicely balanced, aromatic flavors of ripe black currant and blackberry with notes of black tea, olive, earth and tobacco with soft and ripe tannins on a lingering tangy finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2877098

http://www.leoville-poyferre.fr/en/

 

Super Bowl party wine - Long Shadows Feather

 Super Bowl party big red sipping - Long Shadows Feather 2018

Wine buddy, fellow Pour Boy, Dr Dan hosted a Super Bowl party and opened a selection of champagne and wines for the occasion. I zero'd in on this favored sipper from the Long Shadows Vintners Collection, Feather by Randy Dunn. 

We've written often in these pages about the Long Shadows Vintners Collection featuring a cadre of world class winemakers, chosen for their expertise in a particular varietal, then challenged to produce the optimal wine sourced from Washington State fruit. 

This was the vision of Allen Shoup, former CEO of Chateau St Michelle, champion and evangelist for Washington State wines. He formed the brand and recruited a world famous winemaker for each varietal based label to craft wines that showcase Washington State vinifera. For Cabernet Sauvignon he chose and partnered with iconic Napa Valley winemaker Randy Dunn. 

We've long known about the brand and joined their club while visiting their tasting room hospitality center in Woodinville WA during our Seattle Wine / Dine Experience in 2018. We remain Vault Club Members of the allocated portfolio and get a case each quarter of two of the varietal based selections including this Feather label, which we often share with Dr Dan and his cellar.

And, we've written often about our affinity for Randy Dunn and his handicraft with Cabernet Sauvignon. While this label might not normally be considered a casual sipper, it was enjoyable with the broad buffet of artisan cheeses, Italian Beef and BBQ pulled pork, and medley of chocolate, cherry and cheesecake desserts.

Long Shadows "Feather", Columbia Valley, Washington, 2018

This is a label from a producer we know well from our broader cellar collection that span more than two decades, and vertical collection of this label. Our meeting with winemaker Randy Dunn during a visit to Dunn Vineyards estate high atop Howell Mountain was a highlight of our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008.

 

One note about winemaker Randy Dunn's wines is that they tend to be long-lived. Pundits say in their reviews, "Best after 2025, with a long life beyond that"; "This wine will be even more delicious with another several years of bottle age. Cellar this and enjoy it for the next 15 years or longer."

That said, this showed better than when we last tasted this label last summer when I wrote "this may have been consumed too young and need several more years of aging to develop, integrate, and settle to reveal its true profile, character and potential". A risk of drinking young wines from a restaurant wine list at that time. They might likely be better served perhaps holding this back a few years, or, more likely, featuring some of the other Long Shadows Vintners Series labels that might provide earlier younger drinking gratification.

I gave this an additional point over that earlier tasting last summer of this label. 

This label also got blockbuster reviews and ratings - 96 points from International Wine Report, 95 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, Owen Bargreen, and 93 points from Wine Enthusiast who awarded it Cellar Selection, Best of the Year 2021.

This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Feather comes from the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope Weinbau and Wallula Vineyards in Columbia Valley, Washington, and spent 22 months in 90% new French oak. 

Classic Randy Dunn style Cabernet with dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, tight, structured dense and concentrated yet somewhat subdued blackberry and black plum fruits accented by cassis, dust, tar, graphite, leather, tobacco leaf, with hints of dark chocolate and expresso coffee. 

RM 92 points. As noted, an additional point over earlier tasting last summer.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3729486

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table

Magnificent Dinner at Michelin 3-Star Alinea Kitchen Table in Chicago

When we closed the business transaction, selling the company and bringing to an end my tenure as CEO, and the next to latest chapter of my storied career in enterprise software, I reserved the Kitchen Table at legendary 3 Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant in Chicago for a celebration dinner. 

Linda and I were joined by son Ryan and d-in-law Michelle, daughter Erin, while husband, son-in-law Johnny was traveling with their two sons to pick up a new car out of state, and son Alec, while d-in-law Viviana was in Connecticut for another special family event. 

Alinea is the only Michelin 3-Star restaurant in the midwest and founder, luminary chef Grant Achatz actually has four (stars) taking into account another star for his second restaurant, Next. 

Achatz, recognized for his contributions to 'molecular gastronomy' or progressive cuisine was featured on a Netflix episode of The Chef's Table.

Achatz' culinary career started working in his parents' diner restaurant in St. Clair, Michigan as a teenager before studying at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Following graduation in 1994, Achatz landed a position at iconic Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, then moved on to Thomas Keller's highly acclaimed The French Laundry, in Yountville, Napa Valley, California. There he eventually rose to the position of sous chef. 

Achatz moved to Chicago in 2001 to become Executive Chef at Mobile four-star Trio in suburban Evanston, earning a coveted fifth star from Mobil, becoming one of just 13 restaurants so honored at the time.

Achatz opened Alinea in 2005, which has become universally recognized for its innovative approach to modern cuisine, having been named the Best Restaurant in the World by Elite Traveler, the Best Restaurant in North America by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and the Best Restaurant in the U.S. by Gourmet and Business Insider. 

Alinea is one of only 14 restaurants in the U.S. to earn the coveted Michelin 3-Star rating. It has also won James Beard Awards for Outstanding Restaurant in the U.S., Outstanding Service in the U.S., and Outstanding Chef in the U.S.

The Kitchen Table is Alinea's premier dining experience, so named as it is adjacent the working kitchen, seating just six, and with its proximity, actually provides incredible entertainment, dinner and a show, watching the choreography of the bee-hive of activity of the chef culinary crew.

The Kitchen Table View

Tonight's Kitchen Table Menu

The other Alinea dining experiences are The Gallery, which combines "fine dining with experimental moments," and The Salon, which offers "a multi-course tasting menu," and the most intimate offering. The three distinct experiences each offer rotating menus that are preset, and mix art, pop-culture and food. 

Its impossible to capture and describe the magnificent experience that is Alinea. Each of the ten dinner courses is an extravaganza of sensory overload, with the presentation, the service, the accompanying music, the accompanying wine pairing, and of course, the food, with its distinctive presentation and sensational explosion of tastes.

For our special dinner, we ordered the Alinea Wine Pairing, their top tier selection of wines matched to each dinner course. I've written often in these pages about the amplifying impact of properly pairing the right food and wine thereby accentuating the enjoyment and experience of each. There was no debate that to optimize the Alinea experience warranted opting for their premier wine pairing as well. 

It was tempting to select wines from their winelist, its thirty-seven pages featuring many of our favorite wines as well as bucket list wines that we've been wanting to try. In the end, experiencing the chef's selection of wine paired to each course was as much a part of the experience as either the wine or the food - not to be missed! 

Everything was spectacular - service, food, wine, presentation, ambiance, the pairing, the Alinea experience. A memorable experience not to be missed!

 The dinner courses and their associated wines:

Krug "Grande"
170Eme Edition
Champagne

Golden Osetra
Caviar, Caper, Lemon, Onion,
Egg, Brioche

Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan
Mourvedre Blend
Bandol Provence Rose'
2021

Trampoline Papillote
Rouille Turbot Bouillabaisse
Scallop Nicoise

Heads & Tails -
Shrimp w/ White Peppercorn
White Sesame & White Miso w/Coriander
Chili Bun

Chateau Musar
Bekaa Valley Lebanon
Obaidah & Merwah Blend 2014

 

Hot Potato - Cold Potato
Black Truffle & Parmesan

Potinet-Ampieu "Charmes"
Mersault 1Er Cru Burgundy
Chardonnay 2014

COLLAR
Cobia Collar with Mango, Pine,
Uni and Candy Cap Tofu -
Chateau d'YQuem Sauterne Bordeaux 2019

We then were lead into the kitchen to experience the intricate preparation and consumption of the next course, "Spiral", featuring Caramel Apple Pie with Pecan and melted Raclette cheese accompanied with a specially prepared smoked Texas Rye Whiskey Michigan Apple Cider Liquor Sour. 

 

And, when we returned to our table, the Alinea Kitchen Table has been transformed into an elegant dining setting, where upon we were served the remaining courses. 

Squab
Potpourri, Pear, Foie Gras, Angre-Doux

Sine Qua Non
"Esto No Es Una Salida"
Santa Rita Hills
Grenache

2009

Explosion
Black Truffle, Romaine, Parmesan

Somellier presenting
Chateau Pichon Baron
Pauillac Bordeaux
2009

"Chipped"
Waygu, Bechamel, Bresaola

 

Then, once again, the Alinea Kitchen Table was transformed for the final course. We adjusted our seating to the two sides of the table while the linens and table centerpieces were replaced with an large acrylic sheet that became the platform to showcase the preparation and presentation of the dessert course. 

Dessert Wine
D'Oliveiras
Boal Frasqueira Madera Port
1977
(Bottled 2022)

And finally - the famous Alinea helium filled taffy green apple sugar balloons ... 

https://www.alinearestaurant.com/

Steady State & Walls Curiositas

Josh Phelps Grounded Steady State & Walls Curiositas Big Reds with grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteak dinner

Dearest friends Eric and Cathy stayed with us passing through the area and we prepared a gala dinner with grilled tomahawk ribeye beefsteaks with mushroom sauce, baked potatoes and sweet potatoes, wedge salads and desserts. 

For a wine accompaniment pairing, we pulled from the cellar two hearty big red wines from the same 2015 vintage, one from Napa Valley, and one from Washington State Columbia Valley, for a mini-horizontal tasting; Walls Curiositas, and Grounded Wine Company Steady State Red Blend.

Ground Wine Company Steady State Napa Valley Red Wine 2015

Winemaker Chris Phelps and his son Josh work from their Napa Valley work space adjacent to a coffee store in the town of St. Helena.  They meld contrasting styles and approaches to synergistically punctuate their emerging, growing presence in the California and West Coast wine scene.

Chris Phelps is a well known winemaker, terroir-driven producer of super premium Cabernet Sauvignon wines from specific and illustrious plot of grapes across Napa Valley. Son Josh Phelps, a native of Napa Valley, is a millennial winemaker with a launched his own new brand called Grounded Wine Co. in 2015. Josh has developed the ability to produce high QPR - (quality price ratio) affordable every day drinking wines ($15 to $20) from grapes sourced from distinctive growers and locations across California and the northwest states. Both father and son each own their own companies; both work to enhance their mutual capabilities.

As a relatively new name among the category's leading wines Winemaker Josh Phelps and his Grounded Wine Co. produce a diversified portfolio of whimsically named wines from across the western states, "Grounded in heritage, grounded in soil, grounded in simplicity". Josh Phelps' Grounded wines are a testament to Josh’s connections with growers throughout his home state and the broader west coast. Phelps new releases from growing regions in Washington State, Oregon, Napa and Paso Robles. 

While he strives to produce wines priced to be accessible to younger wine drinkers, don’t discount low priced wines from a young winemaker. If he continues to release wines as good as Phelps’ early releases, this is a winemaker and label you’ll want to follow. 

The Grounded collection consists of:

• "Grounded" California Cabernet Sauvignon and a California Sauvignon Blanc, "Grounded in heritage, grounded in soil, grounded in simplicity." Grounded wines by Josh Phelps are a testament to Josh’s connections with growers throughout his home state and the broader west coast.
• "Land Form", a Pinot Noir from Oregon Willamette Valley, Landform is a reaffirmation of Josh's commitment to creating wines that evoke a sense of place.
• "Collusion" Washington State Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, his Washington-based project, focused on prohibition and the rich history of West Cost vintners; a tribute to those who kept the wine industry alive by any means.
• "Space Age" California Central Coast Rosé
• "Public Radio" a Grenache based Red Blend, a tribute to the call sign on the front label was that of Josh’s late grandfather who was an avid amateur radio enthusiast.
  
• and this, his 'premium' label,"Steady State".

Grounded Wine Company Steady State Red Wine 2015  

This is the initial inaugural release of this Bordeaux blend, from Grounded Wine Co. an extraordinary Red Blend that might be considered his flagship label. Josh explains the name of this wine this way: "If a system is in a steady state, then the recently observed behavior of the system will continue into the future. The concept for this Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to growing up in the Napa Valley and learning from its traditions." Phelps fermented this Cabernet in steel, and left the juice on the skin for three weeks before aging it in French oak barrels, 40 percent of which were new. The result is a lively Cabernet with red and dark fruit flavors underscored by a bramble note.

This is sourced from several of Napa Valley’s well known growers and vineyard sites. 

I found this at a local merchant with its simple label but expensive ultra-premium packaging with extra heavy glass, deep bung, and quality capsule, and grabbed every bottle available. I wish I could go back and get more. Watch for it and get some if you can. This shows much higher than its pricepoint and provides significant QPR - quality price ratio. 

This is a blend Bordeaux varietals, 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. It is sourced from vineyards in Rutherford, Oakville, Saint Helena, and Yountville.

This was rated 93 points by Wine Spectrum, and 91 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Deep ruby garnet colored, medium-full bodied, full, round, forward bright expressive but nicely balanced and integrated aromatic black and red fruits highlighted by notes of cola, dark mocha chocolate, tobacco and hints of graphite and expresso with bright acidity and lush gripping but approachable tannins on a long finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2871211

https://www.groundedwineco.com/

Walls Curiositas Red Mountain Cabernet

Walls Winery Curiositas Columbia Valley Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

With Mike Martin, Owner Walls Vineyards

For this special dinner,, we open this special label to pair with the grilled tomahawk dinner Linda prepared for the occasion. 

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the producer during our recent Walla Walla Wine Experience. It was our favorite of the portfolio of wines tasted with Mike Martin, owner/producer Walls Vineyards and Winery.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Red Mountain AVA in central Washington but it tastes more like an old World Bordeaux than a fruit forward fruit bomb from Napa - with its refined, polished and elegant style.

As I wrote in an earlier blogpost almost four years ago to the day, this was my favorite of the flight that we tasted at the winery. Of course I tend to favor Bordeaux varietals  but I found this especially appealing.

The fruit for this is sourced from the Obelisco Vineyard on the higher slopes of the Red Mountain AVA. The vines get increased exposure to the sun and are planted in higher density to further stress the grapes. The result is a wine of great complexity but one that is elegant and lush, yet subtle with tones the winemaker describes as possessing 'freshness that evokes a Margaux-styled fragrant' Cabernet'.

While  I grabbed a case of this to serve with grilled steak, it is so approachable, this is suited for  elegant but casual sipping. It was great leading up to dinner and with the salad course, yet it stood up well and was an ideal accompaniment to the beef tenderloin. 

From my Walls Winery producer visit report:

The Walls Curiositas Red Mountain Cabernet 2015

2015 Curiositas is an elegant, complex and lush, yet subtle, wine. Its tone of freshness evokes a Margaux-styled fragrant Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sourced from the Obelisco Vineyard, high in the Red Mountain AVA where the vines get full exposure to all the elements.

“It is beautifully situated, with more vines doing less work, and planted with higher density,” says winemaker Ali. “It lends itself to complexity so how could we not take advantage of that?”

Bright garnet ruby colored, it was medium bodied and did not have a firm gripping backbone structure expected watching the glycerine legs cling to the glass, the polished elegant tannins were so smooth and silky that it made for enticing casual sipping - bright red and black fruits accented by notes of creme de cassis, spice, tobacco leaf and subtle vanilla and oak. Jeb Dunnuck of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate talks about its 'well-integrated tannins, solid grip, coupled with a swath of fresh acidity that delivers muscular structure' but then talks about it being 'light footed through the long finish'.

RM 92 points.

Jeb Dunnuck, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this  “Editor’s Choice" and rated it "Extraordinary (95-100 pts.) "

331 Cases were produced.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2965947

https://www.thewallsvineyards.com/

Paring California Red Bordeaux Blend 2016

The Paring California Red Bordeaux Blend 2016

This wine is from Jonata Winery in Santa Barbara County by Winemaker Matt Dees. He says this wine is made from the vineyard blocks that are "either too young or don't fit into the vintage style of the highly acclaimed JONATA and The Hilt wines from Santa Barbara County".

I seem to recall I first tasted this wine with Jared Gelband, wine director at Italian Village in Chicago, but admit I don't have it in my records. 

I wrote in more detail by Matt Dees Winemaker and Jonata Winery in a recent blogpost back in December, 2022 - Jonata Winery "Todos Everyone" Syrah.

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/12/jonata-winery-todos-everyone-syrah.html

The Paring portfolio consists of six wines, three reds, this Red Blend, a Syrah and a Pinot Noir, and two whites, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay, and one in-between, a pale pink Rosé of Pinot Noir, that is actually 100% Pinot Noir, salmon colored rosé.

When he's not working with The Paring, Matt can be found making the wines for its big sister wineries- JONATA and The Hilt. Interesting branding features a simple paring knife on the otherwise plain label.

They write about this venture, "Matt comes to wine with an untethered philosophy, a mindset embodied in The Paring. At the core of these wines one finds a wide-ranging exploration of style, vineyards and blending." 

The Paring California Red Bordeaux Blend 2016

Winemaker notes for this release: "This Cabernet-inspired blend displays classic notes of cassis, tobacco and chocolate. Focused fruit and shapely tannins shine as hallmarks of what we've come to expect from the sandy soils and slightly cooler climate of our outstanding vineyard sites." 

It is a Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%, Merlot, 20%, Cabernet Franc and 10%, Petit Verdot, attributed to the California AVA. It was aged in French oak, 55% new and 45% neutral, for 22 months. Coopers include Taransaud, Sylvain, Bel Air and Dejarnac.

This was awarded 93 Points by Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com, and 90 Points by Antonio Galloni Vinous.

Jeb Dunnuck wrote in his review, "concentrated, remarkably pure, elegant Bordeaux blend that has building tannins and a great, great finish. It tastes like it costs three times the price.”

Winemaker's Notes: "Utterly fascinating nose mixing lifted black fruit, savory green herbs and dark notes of grilled bread, espresso and anise. Fills the palate with bright red fruit and black plum. A constant play between sweet and savory. Gentle and dusty tannins lead the way into an incredibly long and precise finish. Mulberry sweetness and a wonderful tension between tannic structure and bright acidity. Balanced and refined, a study in elegance."

This was Ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant expressive fruits of dark berry, plum and cherry fruits with  notes of leather, spice, cassis, earth, herbs and cedar with moderate tannins on the lingering finish. This was suitable for a pizza and some artisan cheeses for casual weekend sipping.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3412921

https://www.theparing.com/