Big Bottle Birthyear mania for Wedding Celebration

Our Cellar Collection and Gala Wedding Celebration includes Large Format Birthyear Vintage Wines

The large format big bottle mania continues for Sean and Michelle's wedding celebration weekend, we opened several birthyear vintage wines we have collected and were saving in our cellar for just such an occasion. We opened a six liter Imperial Napa Cabernet the night before. 

Fortunately, the 1985 vintage produced age-worthy wines suitable for long-term cellaring for thirty-five years. 

People often ask me about the practice of obtaining wines from a particular vintage year. Check vintage charts for your chosen region for your favored wine (s). If that region had a difficult vintage, check the other regions of the world. Chances are you'll find at least one that had favorable age-worthy harvests suitable for collecting.

My fixation on collecting birthyear wines for our children, and now grandchildren is evident in the cellar statistics - for just the 1985 vintage year, we hold 95 bottles in different 39 wines. I believe that is overstated somewhat by the lack of removing bottles consumed over the years. Never-the-less, it reflects the challenge to consume those bottles before they waste away, and offers an opportunity for an extensive, intensive vintage study. 

For the celebration weekend, I pulled the following bottles for a horizontal comparison tasting:

From St Julien Bordeaux,

• Leoville Las Cases 
  
• Ducru Beaucaillou 
• Gruaud Larose, 

Other Bordeaux: 

• Cos d' Estournel St Estephe
  
• Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
  
• Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc

Others:

• Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
• Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
• Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
• Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
• Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
• Dow Vintage Port
• Warre's Vintage Port

For the reasons noted, we will hold the following bottles for future tastings:

We hold vertical collections of these labels hence an opportunity for a broader tasting: Chateau Palmer and Silver Oak. this includes a collection of magnums for each of our four kids' vintage birthyears. 

Amazingly, several labels have projected tasting windows for further aging and consumption several years into the future, hence hold these bottles for an anniversary or baby or other notable celebration tasting. These include, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Dominus Estate Napa, Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn, Diamond Creek Napa, and Chateaux Lynch Bages,  Pichon Baron and Pichon Lalande. 

We opened these bottles, in large format magnums for tasting at the reception dinner:

• Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc
  
• Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien
  
• Château Gruaud Larose, St Julien
  
• Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 
• Dow Vintage Port

Château Sociando-Mallette Haut Medoc 1985

Château Sociando-Mallet is a 225-acre estate in St.-Seurin-de-Cadourne, which is part of the Haut-Medoc appellation just north of the St Estephe appellation, north of the city of Pauillac, Bordeaux. 

The estate is today considered by some reviewers, including Robert M. Parker Jr., to be the jewel of the Haut-Medoc.  Though the estate is unclassified, Parker says the château makes “uncompromising wines of extremely high quality….Sociando-Mallet is easily the equal of many of the classified growths….” 

The vineyards are planted to 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.

This release got 92 points from Vinous and 91 points from Wine Spectator.

The label and foil were in good condition, the cork was soft and partially saturated but extracted almost intact using a two pronged cork puller. 

I wrote about this label back in 2010 when we also tasted it from a magnum. At that time I wrote, "Medium bodied - bright lively forward red fruit flavors highlight with hints of raspberry, black cherry, anise and leather on a moderate tannin flavorful finish.Tasted from magnum - lots of life left - no signs of age in this 25 year old. RM 90 points."

Tonight this was dark garnet color, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of black truffle, smoke, black tea with subtle notes of vanilla and tangy spice on a lingering modest tannin finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=40950

https://www.sociandomallet.com/en

@Sociando_Mallet

Château Gruaud Larose St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Our visit, tour and tasting at the Gruaud Larose estate was one of the highlights of our tour of St Julien Bordeaux a year ago last month. We hold a horizontal collection of more than a dozen vintages of Gruaud Larose dating back to 1981, daughter Erin's birthyear, and the other kids' birthyears, several including this, Sean's 1985, in large format bottles.

We shared a virtual tour of our visit to Château Gruaud-Larose estate grounds, cellar, chai, library and hospitality center in St Julien from our unwindwine blogpost in these pages. 

This release got 93 points from Wine Spectator,  91 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 90 points from  Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. Neal Martin from K&L Wine Merchants in the SF Bay Area gave it 92 points. 

Having a reputation for long lived wines, this 1985 Gruaud Larose showed few signs of diminution from aging and seemed to have a few years of life left although it was more closed and less expressive than the other labels. Earlier in the year I wrote it was showing its age - no doubt the difference in aging effects of a small versus large format bottle. At that time I gave it 89 points.

Like the other bottles served tonight, this was also acquired upon release and has been held in our cellar since. The label, foil and fill level were all pristine, in ideal condition. The cork, like the others was a bit soft and partially saturated, but extracted intact with a two pronged cork puller.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid19-shut-in-prompts-curbside.html

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, a bit closed and slightly subdued complex, ripe earthy blackberry and black current fruits with tones of tobacco leaf, truffle, hints of cassis and spice box, turning to slightly tart black cherry on the long floral full tannin laced finish.

RM 89 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/covid19-shut-in-prompts-curbside.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20848 

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/

 

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1985

Our visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou in Beychevelle St Julien was one of the highlights of our trip to the Medoc last year. It has long been one of the signature wines that we collected for a horizontal of vintages that includes the birthyears of our four kids including large format bottles of this label and this magnum for the 1985 vintage. 

This release got 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 95 Points from the Zachy's Buying Team from the wine merchant in Scarsdale, NY.

As we have held this bottle in our cellar since release back in the eighties, the bottle label, capsule and fill level were all in near perfect condition. The cork was a bit soft and slightly saturated from the bottom but extracted intact using a Ahso two pronged cork puller. The photo shown here shows the cork after having been reinserted and removed for a tasting of the remains the following day. 

This was dark garnet-colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated, pure, red and black currant fruits with a layer of cedar and notes of  truffle, damp earth, tobacco and cinnamon; a hint of mint with with super firm tannins on a long, silky finish.

RM 91 points.  

The Zachys Buying Team Notes from their trip for the 2014 releases: 

"95 Points, Zachys Buying Team: "We had this wine over dinner while in Bordeaux tasting the 2014s - easily one of the highlights of the entire trip. Perfectly mature and is currently drinking the way Bordeaux was intended to be consumed - with age and enough sweet fruit to complement the tertiary development. This wine is all about elegance, no hard edges, classic St Julien cedar, truffle, and damp earth are joined by tobacco and cinnamon. Tongue-staining, long finish. It is a wine that transports you back to old world style claret, where the wine doesn't clobb er at 12.5% alcohol. It is truly a special treat to have this wine with this provenance and condition."

 
Marilee Bostic, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) and most recently, the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma in Wines and Spirits (DipWSET), works at The Grape D’Vine, a boutique wine store in Sparkill, New York, writes in her notes of this wine:

"The 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou still packed a punch with primary aromas and flavors, including cassis, black raspberry, and soft rose petals.  Secondary notes included a layer of vanilla and chocolate mint.  Tertiary notes dominated as this wine was fully mature, with a patina of cherry pipe smoke, damp forest floor, and black truffles.  This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, pronounced aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, and medium tannins that were velvety-soft.  The finish was no doubt long."  

 

I wrote about this wine earlier this year and gave it 93 points, when I wrote; "Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, muted aromas on the nose but elegant, balanced and full flavored, bright and expressive on the palate with black currant fruits accented by sensuous floral, cedar, tobacco leaf, hints of damp earth with super firm tannins and a long, silky finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/01/ducru-beaucaillou-birthyear-vintage.html

Last year, in anticipation of our visit to the Chateau, we opened this label when I wrote; "Dark garnet-colored, medium- to full-bodied, Parker describes it as "a wine of extraordinary charm and elegance", a floral, cedary nose with red and black currants, plum, notes of spice and cassis, firm tannins on a long, smooth silky finish. Still has some years left but assuredly not likely to improve with further aging."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/07/chateau-ducru-beaucaillou-1989-1985.htm

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17635

www.chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com

@DucruB

 

 

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac Bordeaux 1985

 

We visited the estate and walked the vineyards and grounds during our visit to the Medoc last year.  This was the BOTN - best-of-the-night, showing the greatest balance, elegance and complexity with nicely integrated fruits and flavors.

This label has been my favorite of many tastings occasions and continues to be one of my perennial favorites and has more often than not surprised us with its longevity and aging potential. 

 

This release got 93 points from John Gilman and 92 points from Wine Spectator.

 

John Gilman writes, "The 1985 has aged quite beautifully and is now drinking with great style and grace. The bouquet is a superb blend of cassis, dark berries, coffee, cigar wrapper, a dollop of fresh herbs, gravel, black tea and toasty oak. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and beautifully complex, with a good core of fruit, lovely soil signature, melted tannins and fine length and grip on the very classy finish. This is not a powerful vintage of Pichon, but it is an utterly complete one!"

 

This was also served from a magnum. 

 

While this bottle was also acquired upon release and has laid in our cellar magnum rack adjacent the other bottles, the label was soiled and had completely detached from the bottle. The capsule was rather deteriorated but the cork, while slightly soft and partially saturated, extracted intact using a two pronged cork puller. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, elegant and polished with nicely integrated black berry and black currant fruits accented by notes of cassis, black tea, coffee hints of spice and earth with a long smooth tannin laced polished finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1779

http://www.pichon-comtesse.com/

@PichonComtesse

Dow's Vintage Port 1985 

For after dinner sipping and to close out our vertical tasting of 1985 wines for the evening, we opened this 1985 Vintage Port. 

We hold in our cellar several cases of Vintage Port wines but only from a few select vintages, mostly birthyears of our children, and classic Vintage Port vintage years. Note that only in years with an acceptable harvest that they declare it a Vintage year and release vintage designated release wines. 

Son Sean's birthyear 1985 was such a year, hence there are 1985 vintage release ports available. Such wines are notably ageworthy for long term cellaring, hence popular collectables for cellaring and holding for special occasions - classic 'special occasion' wine! 

Note that one should ensure they have an appropriate place with temperature and humidity consistency to cellar and store wine before investing in buying bottles to cellar for an extended period of time.

This wine got 93 points from James Suckling and Vinous and 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

This is classic Vintage Port, what one is supposed to taste like. Naturally, in its 35th year, we see the ageability of such a wine and the art of the possible, or what is to be expected when properly cellared. Too often, if consumed too early, they will present a medicinal or 'hot' alcohol tones until they have integrated, smoothed and settled. 

Dark black garnet colored, medium bodied, aromas of walnuts, dried fruit and fig/raisins, rich concentrated black and red-berry and ripe plum fruits nicely integrated with layers of clove spice, anise liquorice, notes of raisin, creosote and leather with a smooth long lingering clean silky smooth tongue coating finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1897

Big Bottle highlights celebration dinner

 Big Bottle highlights celebration dinner     

The festivities of the gala wedding of son Sean and Michelle kicked off with the traditional rehearsal and rehearsal dinner. We hosted the dinner at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, featured so often in these pages. Tony Angeli and Linda crafted a special menu for our group and coordinated the wine service to incorporate a special birth-year large format bottle from our collection we've been holding for the occasion. Due to Coronavirus restrictions, the dinner was held outside in a tent set up in front of Angelis storefront.

 

Back in the early nineties, Napa Valley winery owner Jeff Jaeger visited Naperville and conducted a wine tasting of Freemark Abbey wines. In addition to Freemark, his wine holdings included a stake in Rutherford Hill and Jaegar. I recall that from that tasting I acquired a case of then just-released Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard Napa Cab. 

Jeff and I discussed my collection of large format bottles from birthyear vintages of our kids. From that discussion Jeff arranged sourcing a six liter imperial Rutherford Hill Napa Cab from son Sean's 1985 birth-year vintage. That bottle has been held in our cellar ever since in anticipation of tonight. He also sourced a six liter 1981 release of Rutherford Hill and Jaeger Vineyards Cabernet that we served at daughter Erin's wedding back in 2006.

Any time one opens a thirty-five year old bottle of wine, there is the chance the wine is not suitable for drinking, or serving to guests and a special gala dinner. Chances of disappointment or success are relative to the reputation and heritage of the producer and specific label, that years' vintage, the provenance of the wine (how it has been handled and stored), and the format of the bottle. 

The reason bottle size or format matters is that in larger format bottles, there is a greater critical mass of liquid to stabilize the wine and for the chemistry of the wine to take effect and age or evolve over time. The other reason is that in the larger vessel, there is less surface area of wine to air exposure, reducing the chance of contamination or unfavorable effects on the wine from the air wine interaction. 

Tonight, we opened the six-liter Imperial Rutherford Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 1985. In the event the bottle was not suitable for serving to a group, I had on hand back-up bottles to serve. 

Rutherford Hill has a 60-acre estate vineyard in the Rutherford appellation of Napa Valley. It also leases 130 acres and sources grapes from the Napa Valley. Founded in 1972, the estate was purchased in 1996 by the Anthony Terlato group, an importer of European wines based here in Chicago. 

Today the Terlato family owns six California wineries including Alderbrook, Sanford and Chimney Rock. Even before the Terlatos' acquisition the estate focused on Merlot. Besides Merlot the estate produced Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and blends.  

Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1985 Imperial

The bottle, label, foil and cork were in ideal condition, remarkable for a thirty-five year old. The oversize cork was starting to get slightly soft but extracted in-tact with a traditional screw. 

I suspect a normal size bottle would not have been so well preserved in all respects but the large format allowed for this be presentable after thirty-five years.

Initially funky with musty notes that eventually wore off to a delightful mix of black cherry, currant and black berry fruits emerging with medium full body, nice balance and integration of notes of earth, leather, hints of cassis and cigar box with soft smooth acidity with moderate tannins on the tangy finish. 

RM 89 points. 

Other Cellartracker's and a Snooth's reviews of this label from the 2012 era:

 Nose of currant, cranberry, pomegranate and cigar box/cedar. Dusty palate. Dusty red berry fruit. It's still surprisingly luscious and pretty with good balance and structure. 91 pts. 5/26/12

P&P. Cork was slightly depressed, but pulled out easily with about 1/3 soaked through, while still looking new. Funky nose of damp earth, worn leather, and slight hints of mint. Holy wow, this wine is alive on the palate, and it's dark. Still showing dark fruits and currants, lots of minerals, more leather, into a resolved tannin and slightly chalky finish. Delicious snd fresh. Glad I have 2 more bottles left, this was an excellent treat at the $18 tariff...surprise qpr of the year? (91 pts.)

Read more: http://www.snooth.com/wine/rutherford-hill-cabernet-sauvignon-napa-valley-1985/#ixzz6XAkCe9xh

 
2/26/2012 - NWA wrote: 92 Points

Still in good shape. The color has remained rich and inky when looking into the glass, though rusty around the rim. Nose shows age, but as it opened revealed stewed berries/compote and dried cherries. I am very surprised how well this bottle has aged.

11/30/2012 - Cellarhead wrote: 90 Points

This appears to have good provenance, still showing a noticeable amount of fruit. Best '85 bottle I've had in memory, aside from any Ports.

7/18/2015 - winchester-xi Likes this wine:

Quite the pleasant surprise. A melange of cherries and forest floor with a powerful medicinal note in the background. Plenty of acid. Moderate density and moderate length. Really no tannin left, so it comes down to how long the fruit will hold out. There's no reason to wait, but it has held out for quite a while so far....

12/23/2012 - ecola Likes this wine: 91 Points

Remarkably smooth with red berries and the acidity is hanging on. Dry finish with rounded tannins. Might make it until age 30.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2322811

Chateau St Michelle 50th Anniversary Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

We picked up all the available bottles of this special tribute bottling upon release as we knew we would serve them on special occasions such as this. 

This was the 50th Anniversary Special commemorative bottling of this wine. 

This is a Bordeaux Blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 4% Syrah, 1% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot 

Winemaker Notes: "We craft our Columbia Valley Cabernet to highlight concentrated Washington red fruit in an accessible style. This is an inviting Cab with plenty of complexity and structure with silky tannins. It’s also very versatile with food." 

 

Decanter gave this release a 93 rating. The Tasting Panel gave it 90 points.

Decanter - "A 50th anniversary special bottling, this has a touch of Napa Valley about it in the rich palate, balanced with Left Bank structure, tannins and restrained oak influence."

 

Tasting Panel - "Creamy and plummy with generous, tangy style; an exceptional bargain packaged with a retro label."

 

RM 90 points.

 

 

 

Family Celebration Dinner features Howell Mountain Wine Flight

 Family Celebration Dinner features Howell Mountain Wine Flight

With family gathered in town, we pivot to shift the focus from a family funeral early in the week to the celebration of Sean and Michelle's wedding this weekend. 

Linda prepared a gala dinner of tomahawk rib-eye steaks with her signature delicious twice baked potatoes prefaced with wedge salad with blue cheese, tomatoes and bacon. Prior to dinner we featured a selection of artisan cheeses. 

Tonight we featured wines from Napa Valley Howell Mountain appellation. Jan and Bill toured there with us during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We featured wines from producers that we visited and tasted during that trip - Dunn Vineyards, Robert Craig, Ladera Vineyards, and Viader, as well as some others. Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon Clark of Clark Claudon was our featured winemaker producer at a special dinner at Pinot Blanc in St Helena during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999. We'll also open Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet this weekend, another featured producer from our 2008 Howell appellation trip.

 The flight: 

Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1987

Viader "V" Proprietary Red 1999 (from magnum)

Clark Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2003-04-05

After dinner, Lucy helped Linda prepare Chocolate Cake with whipped cream and fresh berries. 

Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Best wine of the flight, favored by most, complex, sophisticated, balanced, nicely integrated fruits.

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1987

Amazing life left in this release from an otherwise off-vintage. Briary and brambly Howell Mountain fruits, rustic, very nice. Testament to the longevity of this label, passed on several other vintages that still have a decade or more to go!

Viader "V" Proprietary Red 1999 (from magnum)

Bright vibrant, big bold fruits in this single varietal Petite Verdot limited release label. "V" label signature label, tribute to Vivianna!  

Clark Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Bright vibrant fruits here too with much life left in this vintage release at twenty-five years. 

Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The youngest release at fifteen years, this was brash and forward, big bold, dark and brooding fruits, still needs a couple years to settle and integrate further. Settled nicely over the course of the evening after open for ninety minutes.

Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2003-04-05

Should've opened the '05 to compare with the Ladera but opted to hold off and do a mini-horizontal tasting of this collection. Needed a few more drinkers to expand the flight selection tonight. Watch for this tasting flight.

Big Red Wine Flight for BBQ Rib Dinner

Big Red Wine Flight for BBQ Rib Dinner

Continuing our family reunion and related festivities, Linda prepared BBQ ribs and we opened a couple Big Red Blends suited for the pairing. As is our custom, we have fun with wine labels and we served two signature wines, one, Alec's signature namesake wine, and one of the 'V' wines that we commemorate to Vivanna, this one from Venge Vineyards. Also, as Alec and Viv just acquired their new puppy, this is a tribute as this label honors the late and beloved Venge family pet and vineyard dog, Labrador Retriever, Scout.  We met Scout when we toured the vineyards with patriarch, legendary winemaker Nils Venge back in the mid-nineties. 

Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend 2003 

More on Alec's Blend 2003 from my last tasting and blog post five years ago. 

Venge Vineyards Scout's Honor 2018 

This is a mainstay of our cellar that we keep on hand for such occasions. We have a half dozen vintages of this label in our cellar, drinking and cycling the oldest, replacing it as we go with the latest current release. This is the latest, most current release in which they introduced the new branding of a painted wine bottle as opposed to the more traditional and modest glued paper label. This was our first tasting of this vintage release that just appeared in distribution in Chicagoland in recent weeks and is slated for general distribution this winter. 

This wine is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, robust, fruit filled red wine based on old-vine Zinfandel and blended with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finished with mountain vineyard Syrah. 

The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.

The blend for this release is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and 9% Syrah; aged in 50% new American Oak and the balance in once-used tight grained French Oak for 14 Months.

Grapes were farmed and harvested from four single vineyards in Napa Valley. The Zinfandel was picked from two, old-vine (60 to 100+ years old), dry-farmed vineyard sources: Venge’s newly acquired “Signal Fire Vineyard” estate, and the Frediani Vineyard—both located in the heart of Calistoga. The Charbono is from old, dry-farmed vines (60 to 100+ years old) also planted in the Frediani Vineyard. Robbie Mondavi’s Oso Vineyard located on Howell Mountain supplies the Petite Sirah; the Syrah from  Napa’s finest, from Stagecoach Vineyard, high in the mountains of the Atlas Peak AVA.

The Winemaker notes sum it up perfectly: "The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.'

"This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of violets, anise, honeysuckle, blue herbs, and a touch of vanillin. The palate is pure richness with loads black fruits and currants, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness lead to a wine that is quite pleasing to the senses. Cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years."

Everyone loved this wine, especially with the tangy BBQ ribs. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.vengevineyards.com/ 

Finally, in follow up to our Mt Veeder Appellation tasting the other evening, another wine from a producer that we visited and tasted during that Napa Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011.

Godspeed Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

We discovered and acquired this wine at the vineyard/producer during our Napa Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011. I wrote back in 2015 about this label, "This was drinking very nicely in its twelfth year and may be at its prime, not likely to improve further with more aging. This 2004 was the best showing of this label that I have had to my recollection. This is a small production label from this boutique producer. Ironically, I saw some available just this week at Total Wine in Minnesota.' 

"Dark blackish purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic, black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors, a bit tight and firmly structured with tones of truffle and spice with hints of cedar, tobacco and green pepper, turning to moderate tannins on the long finish."

As this has aged another five years, it has lost some of its finesse and polish. RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

  https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/godspeed-mt-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

 

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

With the remote family in from both coasts for a wedding and a funeral this week, we're having some fun pulling from the cellar different labels from producers that we have visited together during various trips to Napa Valley. This Napa Cab is from legendary producer Randy Dunn whom we visited together with Sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn. 

Randy started his wine career working for Charlie Wagner as the first enologist for Caymus. He was  instrumental in establishing Howell Mountain as a sub-AVA of Napa Valley. He is hands on from the vineyards to the cellars.

While not one of the larger holdings in our cellar in terms of number of bottles, it may be one of our broadest holdings in terms of number of vintages in our vertical collection of this label, and the flagship premium label Dunn Howell Mtn Cab.  We also collect Randy Dunn's "Feather" label that he produces for the Long Shadows Vintners Collection Series in Washington State.

Our Cellartracker records indicate we have a vertical collection of several mixed cases of each label from almost two dozen vintages dating back to 1981. 

Selections from Vertical Collection of Dunn Napa Valley Cabernets

This label release got 90 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. It has a Cellartracker average rating of 92.1 from 81 user reviews. I acquired this ten years ago when it was already ten years of age.  

With Randy Dunn at Dunn estate high atop Howell Mountain.

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Dunn is known for age-worthy Napa Cabernets, especially the premium Howell Mtn label. At 21 years, this label is still holding its own although past both its prime and projected drinking windows. While at this stage, many wines lose their fruit flavors to non-fruit tones, the fruits in this bottle are still holding their own, while also showing pronounced complementary and tertiary flavor tones.

We hold another bottle of this release and we'll note it needs to be consumed in the next year or so before it begins to diminish beyond enjoyable drinking. 

This was garnet colored, medium-full bodied, muscular, full forward rustic blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, graphite, leather and expresso, moderate acidity with firm lingering tannins on the long finish. 

I had trouble characterizing an underlying lingering flavor in the profile - Wine Spectator mentions mineral, iodine and dill - Tanzer speaks of raw meat ... 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7962

http://www.dunnvineyards.com/

@dunn_vineyards 

 The following evening we did a gala beefsteak dinner and opened another Dunn Cabernet, Howell Mountain 1987.

Special wines for Family gathering ...

Special wines for Family gathering ... 

On the eve of the wake memorial service for step-father Keith, family arrive from both coasts for a week of family events, a funeral and a wedding. Sister Jan and her family arrived from SoCal, son Alec and Vivianna from NYC. 

We gathered at our house and had a somewhat poignant gala reunion with dinner of grilled steak fajitas, fresh fruit, artisan cheeses, and wines. 

McNees Conrad Clan

I invited Bro-in-law Bill to select wines from the cellar and he asked for some single varietal wines and the flight was on. I pulled a selection of family oriented wines from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla. We visited the tasting room and picturesque vineyards in during our Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018. Out at the vineyards site we met grower producer Dean Derby. 

As I have featured numerous times in these pages, the Spring Valley portfolio is branded with labels each named for an ancestor going back three generations. Several of the labels are single varietal specific wines, perfect for the occasion and Bills request.

We started with a Napa Valley Petite Sirah, followed by Spring Valley Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, then a Merlot based Bordeaux Blend before moving on to more adventurous labels. 

I wrote earlier this week about the commemoration to Keith Lorentzen and Robert Craig and our wine selections based on visits together to the various wineries during our Napa trips over the years. 

We pulled a Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2006 vintage, that we tasted with Jan and Bill during our private tour and tasting at the estate winery high atop Howell Mountain back in 2008. Following that, we opened another Howell Mountain Cabernet from Ladera which we also visited together during that trip. 

In recognition of our trip to France a year ago with Alec and Vivianna, we opened a Rhone varietal Grenache, but from the notable Australian producer Clarendon Hills.  

 The flight:

Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc 2011

Sharilee (Corkrum) Petite Verdot 2012

Uriah Red Blend 2010

Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 

Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache 2007 

Long Meadows Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2017 

Stay tuned as the festivities of the week play out we unwindwine many more wines.

 

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Our favorite signature summer dinner, we grilled rib-eye steaks 'Pittsburgh' style, served with sweet corn, baked potatoes, and wedge salad with blue cheese, bacon and tomatoes. Our mourning and tribute to stepdad Keith continues and coupled with the remembrance of Robert Craig, I pulled from the cellar this Robert Craig Spring Mountain District Cabernet from 2005. 

 

The 2005 was the inaugural first release for the Robert Craig Spring Mountain label. It was sourced from the picturesque Joan Crowley vineyard perched at 2000 foot elevation along the summit of Spring Mountain, high above the town of St Helena in the Mayacamas Range that forms the western slope of Napa Valley. The incredible site is primarily dry-farmed, reducing vigor and crop yield resulting in small, flavor-packed berries. 

As I have written often in these pages, Robert Craig focused on, specialized in hillside and mountain fruit from leading producing regions of Napa including Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain. Add Mt George and Atlas Peak above the town of Napa and you have the four corners of the Napa Valley. He often referred to it as four mountains and a valley in describing his portfolio of Cabernets.

While Robert Craig Winery owned the majority of their vineyard sources, they buy fruit from select vineyards on the various mountains. They worked with Napa Valley based hillside vineyards generally 1,600 feet or higher. 

Robert started his career up on Mt Veeder, initially developing the William Hill vineyard, and then later, at The Hess Collection as their General Manager. In addition, he helped develop 300 vineyard acres on Mt. Veeder for the movie star comedian Robin Williams estate. Robert Craig sourced Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from there for over two decades for the Mt Veeder designated Cabernet label until Robin's passing and the recent sale of the estate and the Pym Rae vineyard to the French Tesseron wine empire Family. Their recent first release label from that property was priced at $350. Robert often said that Mt Veeder was his favorite of his Cabernets. He was instrumental in forming sub appellations for both Mt. Veeder area and Spring Mountain.

Robert passed away a year ago in September 2019 from complications from Parkinson’s disease. 

The Robert Craig Winery is perched at an elevation of almost 2300 feet high up on Howell Mountain on the north east side of Napa Valley. It is among some of Napa’s highest vineyards. At this elevation they actually see some snow in the winter at times. The location sits above the town of Angwin and their permit at the actual winery limits them to an extremely small number of visitors, as well as only several events per year at the actual winery, hence, they maintain a tasting room in the city of Napa. 

We attended a private tasting there at the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Estate in 2008 and then we attended the Harvest Party at the estate in 2009.

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

My recollection is that I first tasted this Spring Mountain label upon its release during that visit in 2008. It was a comparison tasting against the Mt Veeder and Howell Mountain labels, the Spring Mountain was served from the barrel, and it was my standout favorite, being slightly sweeter than the other two. I remember the allocation for Club members was limited to three bottles. I negotiated a mixed case purchase of twelve bottles of the 05, 06 and 07 vintages, most of which I still hold to this day.  

This brings me to today. Sister Jan and bro-in-law Bill were with us for that private tasting picnic lunch at the estate (above). They will be in town this coming week from SoCal for the family funeral and wedding. And, fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Bill C and Beth were with us at the 2009 Harvest Party when we tasted these wines (below). He and Beth will also be in town next week for son Sean's wedding, so, with this backdrop, I pulled the Spring Mountain label to taste as part of this tribute and in preparation for serving for extended family and friends dinners next week. I also went and purchased the current 2016 release to fill out the collection and replace the bottle we drank.

 

Robert Craig writes of this label; "The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated winegrapes. Joan Crowley’s low-yield, biodynamically farmed vineyard has provided us with deep, aromatic and structured wines since our first vintage with it in 2005. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. The heady, deep perfume that is a Spring Mountain District signature is always present in this cabernet that is hard to come by." 

In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon varietal grapes, Robert Craig also sourced from the Crowley vineyard Bordeaux varietal Petite Verdot.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Crowley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Fellow Cellartracker RicksPicks (not me, no relation) reviewed this wine on two occasions in 2010 and then in 2011: "Very dark fruit aromas and flavors - blackberry and blueberry with some earthiness dominate. Very rich and viscous mouthfeel. Tastes like ripe mountain fruit -- if there is such a thing. Rather round and full bodied. Lacked structure, but I liked it for its depth and richness."

RicksPicks gave this 90 points each time. 

"Similar to a prior bottle - ripe and rich, dark fruits, soft, lush mouthfeel. Very plush for mountain fruit. Nice, medium, fruity finish. Not a lot of structure, but still very tasty."

 WCC's review of the 2007 - Medium garnet in color. Surprisingly, this evidenced a much brighter profile than I expected. Typically, my experience with Spring Mountain has yielded a rather brooding, mellow profile with time. This was bright and full of raspberry and cherry. Medium bodied with a medium finish highlighted by some pepper notes. A bit unconventional and unexpected but tasty none the less.

Tonight this was bright garnet colored, medium bodied, with bright sprites of ripe black berry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of tobacco leaf, tangy spice, with hints of bitter dark chocolate and smoke with moderate tannins on the lingering  finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=471314

https://robertcraigwine.com/crowley-vineyard-spring-mountain/

@RobertCraigWine

 

@unwindwine

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

For casual Sunday night dinner, Linda prepared Mahi Mahi in cornmeal crust with butter and lemon with asparagus and Miso rice. I pulled from the cooler this everyday casual sipper Columbia Valley Chardonnay from Chateau Ste. Michelle. At a sub fifteen dollar price point, this is definitely one of those wines to keep on hand for casual every day sipping. Its an amazing value at this price with great QPR - Quality Price Ratio, and is a high overachiever. Amazing they can produce this quality in such quantity so as to be generally available to the masses. 

We visited the fabulous Chateau St Michelle estate during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour two years ago. They've done an amazing job promoting and establishing Washington State as a top wine producing region and have built an impressive extensive portfolio of wines. 

Chateau St Michelle has also become a cultural icon in the greater Seattle area with their extensive grounds that also serve as a concert venue for major events and groups. We attended a major concert there headlined by the iconic Steve Miller Band and Peter Frampton.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

This is sourced from Chardonnay grapes from vineyards throughout the Central Washington State Columbia Valley. 

This label was #34 on Wine Enthusiasts Top 100 Best Buy List for 2019. It was awarded 89 points by both Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, bright tangy notes of golden green apple with lively buttery spice sprites of lemon zest and subtle oak.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3210103

https://www.ste-michelle.com/2017-chardonnay/5637159689.p

 

 

 

Keith Lorentzen Tribute - Robert Craig Affinity 2011

Keith Lorentzen Tribute -  Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2011

With much of the family in town gathered in the final hours and passing of dearly beloved father/step-dad Keith, his four daughters, Becky, Heidi, Wendy and Mitzi, joined us at our house from the hospital for processing, reflection, planning and light dinner. I pulled from the cellar a Robert Craig Affinity in reflection of Keith and on the recent passing of Robert (Craig), in tribute to and remembrance of Keith and recently departed Robert. We toasted Keith and Robert, two delightful, generous, highly educated but humble gentlemen.

Dr Keith Lorentzen 1921-2020

The Robert Craig portfolio is one of the largest holdings in our collection with labels across the brand dating back to the inaugural release in 1993.  Many of our Napa Valley trips were highlighted by visits to the Robert Craig estate high atop Howell Mountain, the Napa tasting room, or even the original winery crush facility up on Mt George Atlas Peak in the early days back in 1998.

Cellartracker records show we hold no less than nineteen vintages of this label, in addition to the numerous other Robert Craig sub-appellation select designated Cabernets.

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Affinity is a classic Bordeaux Blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. As I have often written in these pages, Robert took pride in holding the pricepoint of this 'entry level' Cab to premium his portfolio providing good QPR (quality price ratio) as the brand evangelist/ambassador. 

The classic Bordeaux Blend was crafted from Cabernet Sauvignon grown at the Robert Craig estate in the foothills of Mount Geroge in Napa's Vaca Range south of Stag's Leap. The Cabernet is composed of small additions of Petit Verdot for color, Malbec to add weight, Cabernet Franc for structure and Merlot for silky mouthfeel to craft this wine. It was aged for 18 months in new and second-fill French oak, the resulting wine is powerful and ripe.

A quality sipper belaying an 'off' vintage, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright vibrant ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits, hints of cassis offset the slight herbal and vegetable notes found in so many of the Napa 2011's, only slightly detracting from the Bordeaux Blend.  

RM 89 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1798118

https://robertcraigwine.com/

Visits to Robert Craig Estate -

Harvest Party 2009 - 
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

Howell Mountain Estate Visit - 2008
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

Reuling Sonoma Chardonnay Seafood Dinner

 Reuling Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2012 with Seabass and Walleye Seafood Dinner

For the second time this week, for our Friday evening 'date night', we dined at Carnivore & The Queen Supper Club to take in their Friday Walleye Fish and Chips Special. We also tried the Seabass seared in white wine butter with shallots and preserved lemons. To accompany our seafood entrees we took BYOB from our cellar this Reuling Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. 

The 'Alterior Motive' locally brewed Beer battered Walleye was superb, even better than the Seabass entree at 1.5 times the price. At $25, it is pricey for 'fish and chips', but worth it. It was complemented by equally superb batter fried onion rings.  

This was the inaugural release of estate bottled Chardonnay from the famous vineyard owned by Tim and Jackie Reuling. It is one of the most lauded vineyards in the region having sourced fruit for notable Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. 

Timothy and Jackie purchased the 16-acre Reuling property in 1998 and planted 14.4 acres in 2000 to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For over a decade, the vineyard was a source for top flight producers including Aubert Wines and Peter Michael Winery. Wines sourced from the property have been awarded as high as 99 points by Robert Parker. 

Joined by winemaker Matt Taylor, they began producing their own label wines. Previously Taylor was winemaker and vineyard manager for Araujo Estates and has worked with Joseph Swan Vineyards and Domaine Dujac. He considers the Reuling Vineyard to be one of the great vineyard sites in California.

The Reuling Vineyard initially gained notoriety by its association wtih Mark Aubert. Aubert grew up in Napa wine country where his parents owned a vineyard. After getting a degree from University of California at Fresno in 1985 he worked at Monticello. His winemaking career was propelled by his association with legendary winemaker Helen Turley. He served a 12-year stint at Peter Michael where he followed Helen Turley and was appointed head winemaker there at 28 years old. Aubert succeeded Turley again several years later at Colgin Cellars. 

 Since then, Aubert has been a winemaking consultant for several prestigious wineries including Sloan, Bryant and Futo. He launched his own brand in 1999 and his vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays quickly received critical acclaim. Aubert released his own wines with the 2000 vintage crafted from estate and leased vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. 

 

 

Reuling Sonoma Coast Vineyard Chardonnay 2012

At eight years of age, this Chardonnay was at its apex and probably at the end of its peak drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather to start to diminish with further aging so its time to drink up. 

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points and a "Cellar Selection" saying "this is one to cellar 2019-2024".

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave it 91 points, Connoisseurs Guide 90 points.

This was straw colored, medium bodied, with an interesting aroma and flavor tone of what I was having trouble characterizing, describing it as corn with hints of smoke. 

Later I read the Cellartracker post by Slywka from Conneticut who is a Certified Sommelier. Lo and behold, he wrote, "Aromas of nut, buttered popcorn, papaya and hint of flowers. Flavors of buttered popcorn, mango, vanilla, mineral and touch of banana. Ends with a buttered popcorn infused finish of 25+ seconds." He pegged what I was struggling to describe, that flavor of 'buttered popcorn". The rest of his tasting note sums it up aptly and well. 

Slywka gave it 93 points. I gave it 90, detracted by the non-fruit corn notes and hints of smoke. RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788461

https://carnivoreandthequeen.com/  

@QueenCarnivore

Kracher TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague

 Alois Kracher Chardonnay TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001

We opened this for an evening of causal sipping with artisan cheeses and biscuits. May of the strong cheeses are best paired with the sweet wines such as this. 

 We hold more than a dozen labels of Kracher wines from this era. Its fun to watch quality dessert wines mature and change color over time, from straw color, to butter, then weak tea, and progressing darker and darker over time. Note this color of tea at seventeen years of age.

As I have written in the past, at their most desirable (to my taste preference) these wines are rich, thick, unctuous, and voluptuous with apricot marmalade, mango, toffee/brown sugar, and caramel notes. This may have been there at some point and perhaps passed that stage of its aging profile. If so, then it is time to drink although it will no doubt continue to age gracefully for several more years. But the rich, sweet apricot fruits nectar was gone and has turned more to a smokey charcoal layer over the fruits which were more subdued. Delightful never-the-less.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19086

Carnival of Love for Anniversary Dinner

 Mollydooker Carnival of Love Shiraz 2011 for Anniversary Celebration Dinner

We have fun with the whimsical labels of Mollydooker with their cartoonish characters and circus poster themed labels. But, there is nothing whimsical about their big full-throttle Shiraz in their premium label Carnival of Love. We adopted this and the companion Enchanted Path years ago for family celebration dinners. So it was that we pulled this bottle from the cellar to take BYOB to our anniversary dinner. 

My interest in and appreciation for this label has been heightened recently when I learned that one of my protege's who manages the greater ANZ/APAC region for me is a personal friend of Sparky Marquis, founder and previous co-owner of Mollydooker, but since departed.

We dined at the whimsically named Carnivore and the Queen neighborhood fine dining restaurant, dining outside on the lawn due to the Coronavirus rules. 

This created what could have been the tongue twister headliner for this post - Carnival of Love at Carnivore and the Queen during Coronavirus pandemic. 

As I wrote last winter on an earlier post, Carnivore & The Queen Supper Club is designed after a bygone area of nostalgic dining, a contemporary revival of a classic prohibition-era supper club with a 'casual vibe & approachable classic food'.

Carnivore & The Queen is the work of husband-and-wife team Chris Matus and Kelli Lodico-Matus. It is located down the street from Lisle (Illinois) in adjacent Downers Grove.

They offer daily menus featuring their recipes and the seasons' local ingredients from localvor  farmers, fishmongers & ranchers. They strive to deliver an experience that both their mothers provided, like gathering the family around the dinner table every night. There is a price-fix three course and a five course offering. There is also a menu offering with wine pairings accompaniment.

Linda order the price-fixe dinner with the baked chicken special of the day. I ordered the BBQ ribs with house fingerling wedge potatoes. The five course dinner came with a cerviche' and then their signature relish tray with olives, marinated mushrooms, relishes, radishes, cauliflower and a vegetable spread with dinner crackers. 

We both followed with their wedge salad with blue cheese, maplewood bacon and tomatoes. 

After dinner dessert was their signature home-made key-lime pie, the 'best ever', according to Linda. 

Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale South Australia Shiraz 2011

The 100% Shiraz grapes for Carnival of Love are from the Gateway Vineyard in McLaren Vale. It was aged in almost entirely new American oak. 

This release was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator and 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Consistent with my earlier tasting notes from 2014, This was dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, expressive fragrant floral notes, dense, deep concentrated, complex fruits of sweet black cherry, black raspberry and hints of blueberry fruits accented by creme de cassis, cinnamon and clove spices with a layer of charcoal that detracts from the harmonious desirable fruit and spice notes. The finish is long with crisp acidity and soft silky tannins,

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1436687

https://www.mollydookerwines.com.au/default.aspx