Friday, March 13, 2020

Delray Beach Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar

Delray Beach Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar offers spectacular wine selection at extraordinary values

Visiting friends Bob and Gloria in Florida, they took us to the Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar in Delray Beach. They boast to have "The World's Largest Selection of Wine by the Glass!"  with over 200 hand-selected wines available through their Enomatic wine dispensing machines. The Italian made, state-of-the-art machines are equipped with a wine-preservation system which guarantees to serve a fresh pour every time in pre-calibrated 1oz, 2.5oz, or 5oz size servings.

More noteably, they have an extensive wine cellar of fine wines with top vintage wines dating back several decades. Most importantly, they offer such wines at close to retail prices rather than marking them up 1.5, 2 or two and a half times retail or more.

I've written in these pages about the margins various dinesites extract from their winelist selections and the resulting values offered to patrons. This is the best value, highest QPR dining site I have ever experienced anywhere.

Moreover, they have a Reserve Wine List of extraordinary vintage selections of premium and super premium wines including First Growth classified Bordeaux that are also offered at fair market price or current retail prices for such wines, a fraction of what most other restaurants would charge.

The secret to the extensive collection and extraordinary values provided by the Wine Room and Kitchen is that it is sourced from the personal private cellar of the owner, a long time collector of fine wines. He shares his extensive cellar collection with patrons, and uses the restaurant outlet to 'thin' his cellar collection.


As shown, there is on offer a dozen vintages and labels of First Growth Bordeaux, Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Latour and Margaux. There are several vintages of Penfold's Grange, and a similar offerings from top rank California producers as well.

We started with a pre-dinner cheese and charcuterie plate and ordered a bottle of Washington State Quilceda Creek CVR - Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend.

At the near retail price for a current vintage release, I originally thought it was a mistake on the wine list and offered at close to half price. On further investigation I realized this was the norm for all offerings, including old vintages.


As Bob and Gloria are not obsessive oenphiles, with the level of interest or enthusiasm for wines as me, they also don't share my level of investment I might spend on a special bottle.

This provided a perfect opportunity to share a favorite selection of a vintage fine wine at a great value price to suit even a modest budget or appetite. The same could be said for our next selection, another Washington State wine from a legendary cult producer, Cayuse.

Then, there is a spectacular Charcuterie and Cheese selection. There are on offer over 70 cheeses available à la carte, matched with charcuterie or in pre-selected composed cheese flights below. There is a cheese master who can assist with accompaniments for entree selections as well as wine pairings. Our cheese plate was another memorable highlight of our visit.




Quilceda Creek CVR - Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2011

This is a Bordeaux Blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It was projected to improve with age and drink well for a decade. At this stage, it is very likely drinking at the apex of its drinking profile and window - certainly so for wine geeks such as me who enjoy drinking aged wines, later in their aging window/profile.

This was awarded 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

Quilceda Creek owners/winemakers Alex and Paul Golitzin produce outstanding Bordeaux Blends with their Columbia Valley label at the pinnacle of Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon. We love this label and consider it a high QPR great value more affordable alternative to the flagship that costs 2-3x more.

K&L, the SFO Bay Area wine merchant cite this wine represents a great value and has received an average score of 92 points from the Wine Advocate over the past five years. The 2011 Quilceda Creek Red Wine Columbia Valley is a blend of declassified lots that didn't make it into their flagship wines that cost several times more in price. It was a delicious accompaniment to our selection of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

The fruit for this label was sourced from all the Quilceda Creek vineyard sites, Columbia Valley vineyards - Champoux, Discovery, DuBrul, Galitzine, Klipsun, Palengat, Shaw, Tapteil and Wallula. 

The Blend was aged for 22 months in 100% French Oak.  

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, fruitful, plush, sweet ripe cherry, currant and boysenberry fruit flavors with accents of mocha chocolate, creme de cassis, graphite, spice and hints of licorice and coffee.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1753715

https://www.quilcedacreek.com/

We had dinner reservations at another restaurant in town but ended up staying at Delray Wine Room and Kitchen for dinner too. Bob ordered the fresh salmon, Gloria and Linda had the fresh day's catch Red Snapper, and I had the beef in puffed pastry with whipped potatoes and red cabbage. 

For dinner wine selections we ordered from the wine list another Washington State cult wine Cayuse and Pride Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Cayuse Cailloux Vineyard Walla Walla Viognier 2011

We tasted another Cayuse label at our recent OTBN gala wine event the other night. At that time I noted that Cayuse is a limited production boutique producer whose wines are much sought after and highly allocated. 

This Cayuse Viognier is another unique label offering on the winelist, an interesting and imaginative pairing with the seafood entrees. 

This release got reviewed 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 92-93 by David Schildknecht, both for The Wine Advocate. Dunnuck wrote of the 2011 Viognier Cailloux Vineyard, "One of the best examples of the variety coming out of Washington".

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, Dunnuck writes of notes of 'white peach, citrus rind, liquid mineral and hints of white flowers'.

Schildknecht wrote, "Baron’s 2011 Viognier Cailloux Vineyard is redolent of acacia and honeysuckle along with lime and orange zests, ... also of pungent floral and white pepper .... reminiscent of Roussanne or even of Riesling from Austrian Urgestein."

RM 89 points.  


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1444903

https://cayusevineyards.com/
 

Pride Cellars Napa Sonoma Valley Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Bob was up for drinking a red with his salmon entree and I ordered hearty beed so we also ordered this Napa Cab, one our favorite labels. There were more than a dozen different vintage label releases of Pride Spring Mountain Cabernet and the Reserve on the winelist. I selected the oldest vintage of the Estate bottling that I had not already tasted. Once again, this was offered at close to the fair market retail price, a high QPR value offerings.

Napa and Sonoma Valley ? What gives? As the label notes, this is sourced from the Pride Mountain estate vineyard, high atop Spring Mountain above Napa St Helena, 53% from Napa and 47% from Sonoma. The vineyard is one of two wineyards along the Mayacamas Range separating Napa Valley to the east, and Sonoma Valley to the west, that straddles the summit and actually can be attributed to both Napa and Sonoma Valley.

The other (so situated vineyard) is Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard further north along the range summit atop Diamond Mountain. We have visited and know and have wine in our cellar from both vineyards - having visited Pride during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 1998, and Constant during our Napa Wine Experience 2011.

Pride Family acquired this property in 1990 and have been producing Cabernet Sauvignon from this Estate vineyard since 1994. Interesting, we have had or still hold bottles dating back to the 1994 vintage, some that we tasted and acquired during our visit in 1999.

Another reason for this selection tonight is that we gave mutual fellow fraternity brother and fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Dr Dan a large format magnum of this label for his (second) wedding present. Dan and Bob both brothers, were college roommates, and Bob and Gloria were with us, all together at the ceremony and celebration occasion.

This is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot.

Winemaker's Notes for this release. "Sumptuous nose of dried black cherries overlays a sweet background of cassis. A caressing texture initially coats the mouth with pure flavors of black cherry that give way to dark berry, subtle cedar, smoke and graphite on a long evolving finish framed by just the right amount of acidity. This wine is all about balance with supple ripe tannins providing a beautiful foundation for the ample dark fruit and with nuanced acidity giving structure and lift without bite. An absolute pleasure to roll around the mouth."

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave this 91 points.

Bright garnet ruby colored, medium full bodied, full forward blackberry fruits accented by notes of bitter dark chocolate, black tea, and hints of creosote and tones of graphite, cedar and oak with supple full tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=2960628

https://www.pridewines.com/

http://www.thewineroomonline.com/delraybeach/



Thursday, March 12, 2020

Amici and Jayson Napa Cabernets

Amici and Jayson Napa Cabernets for friends' reunion dinner

Pahlmayer Jayson Red Wine 2004

Visiting ('Frat') brother Bob and Gloria at their beautiful Florida home, we took two labels of Jayson (Pahlmeyer), this Cabernet and a Sauvignon Blanc, in honor of their namesake son. We have fun with these 'signature' label wines with and for our family and friends.

Gloria prepared a wonderful dinner with grilled ribeye steak, asparagus and potatoes and we poured these two Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons.

From our last tasting of this label, I wrote, "The Cellartracker tasting window lists the wine tasting window for this wine through 2013. While we often tend to hold and drink our wines long into or even past their tasting window, in this case, this wine seemed still be at its apex, while not likely to improve further with more age. I updated Cellartracker to 2018.'

"Like the previous tasting, "Upon opening, sweet floral and berry aromas burst forth and filled the room. Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant full forward flavors of black raspberry with tones of blueberry, sweet currants, tangy spice and hints of sweet caramel and whisper of tobacco leaf with nicely integrated sweet tangy oak on the lingering finish."

Tonight this had the same profile and character albeit the non-fruit tones of the tobacco and a bit of earthy leather were emerging, Never-the-less, this was very good and hanging on very nicely and it was a perfect accompaniment to Gloria's grilled ribeye steak dinner.

I would deduct one point from earlier tastings as a result of the slightly diminished fruit to RM rating of 92 points.

This is Pahlmeyer's Right Bank Bordeaux style Blend (meaning predominantly Merlot over Cabernet Sauvignon) -  60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Perhaps the predominant Merlot in the mix attributed to the softer more approachable style.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/11/pahlmeyer-jason-napa-valley-red-wine.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=296642

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/

Amici Napa and Sonoma Valley Wines 

Prior to us opening the Pahlmeyer, Bob served from his cellar cooler this Napa Cabernet from Amici Cellars. I had never seen this label before but later, when I stopped in the Total Wine store in Boca Raton, the east coast beverage superstore, multiple vintages of this label were prominently displayed as well as the Reserve label including signed bottles in large (magnum) format. The Reserve label, was promoted as "the best wine under $100" by Total Wine in store signage.

What a pleasant surprise to discover a new brand and label such as this. So it is when one travels to a different region of the country, or visits a major wine retailer such as Total Wine, that sources wine from its own producer contacts or through different distribution than what might be available here in Illinois.

The rear label of the 2016 bottle we opened was a bit obscure about the source of the fruit or the producer leading me to believe it was not estate bottled. Visiting their website, Amici is 'a family-owned winery, nestled in the foothills of the Palisades, just outside Calistoga, Napa Valley, where we are dedicated to producing true-to-varietal wines from exceptional vineyard sources.' This indicates they are sourced from third party growers, and as such, act as negociants, which is not a bad thing as I write below.

According to the Amici Cellars website, the owners are John Harris and Silicon Valley friends and neighbors Bob and Celia Shepard, who shared a love of cooking and wine. The three 'kindred spirits’ followed their passion to produce wines of their own and founded Amici Cellars.

John Harris, CEO, was a business executive who developed technologies in the oil and gas industry. After two successful stints with Houston-based companies, he was involved in a 'start-up opportunity in Silicon Valley'. From there, he took his financial fortune to pursue his interest and love of fine wine establishing Amici Cellars.

Partners and co-owners Bob and Celia Shepard, Bob had been in real estate investment and finance before immersing themselves in the wine business.

They speak of decades of relationships with outstanding growers, which lead me to be think they might be more of a negociant than a grower/producer producing Estate bottled wines, much like the famous historic negociants of Bordeaux, who over time acquired property sources to become producers of their labels. I write of the histories of several of the famous Chateaux and estates of Bordeaux from our visits there last summer.

"From our flagship Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon blend to our portfolio of single-vineyard wines from Napa and Sonoma’s most coveted heritage, hillside and valley vineyards, our wines are made with deep respect for vineyard sources and thoughtful attention to detail. Each year, we aspire to bottle beautiful wines that are accessible for everyday enjoyment and for age-worthy collections."

Indeed, they offer a four bottle set of single vineyard designated labels ($750) that includes:
  • 2016 Amici Cabernet Sauvignon To Kalon Vineyard
  • 2016 Amici Cabernet Franc To Kalon Vineyard
  • 2016 Amici Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch
  • 2016 Amici Cabernet Sauvignon Old Bull Trail

Despite being 'outsiders', Amici principles have obviously established extraordinary relationships throughout Napa and Sonoma to gain access to the top growers with the finest sites to source grapes from which to assemble a significant line of fine wines.

Their website touts labels sourced from a wide range of the top vineyards throughout Napa Valley and Sonoma - well known legendary vineyards such as ToKalon, Oakville Ranch and Bekstoffer Missouri Hopper in Oakville, Morisoli in Rutherford, and Hyde in Carneros.

They also cite the Charles Heintz Vineyard, from which they source their Chardonnay. It is 'called “one of the great Grand Cru Chardonnay sites in California” by Robert Parker'. The Charles Heintz Vineyard sits along the Sonoma County coastline. The vineyard site has been in the Heintz family for over 100 years, and since its planting in 1982 has become a name synonymous with the best of California Chardonnay.

They also mention a appellation specific source from Spring Mountain AVA from which they obtain Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Lastly, they speak of the 2016 Amici Cellars Old Bull Trail single vineyard designated Cabernet Sauvignon, grown just a half-mile north of Amici Cellars’ winery and tasting room. The small Old Bull Ranch vineyard was planted by Amici owner John Harris to his favorite Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Estate bottled? Whether it is, or not, they have sufficient influence to direct or influence the vineyard plantings.

Amici have developed a very respectable offering of fine wines assembled from the best vineyard sources. Even serious oenphiles (wine geeks) should take note of these offerings. As I have written before in these pages, caveat emptor for Collectors who strive to follow a vertical collection of a label over an extended period of time, since vineyard sourcing relationships and contracts can change, and may be shortlived. Such collections can only count on being based on 'Estate' bottled wines, those sourced from fruit grown on the owners' property, or follow the single vineyard production outcomes, regardless of the label or brand in which they are packaged. Notably, of course, there are many examples though of successful long lived relationships that produce great wines over years or even decades. I have written in these pages often about Robert Craig Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Cabernet, Arns Melanson Vineyard Syrah, and Lewis Cellars and Andretti Cellars, the Hyde and Den Hoed vineyards to name a few notable labels sourced from contracted fruit. This one will be interesting to watch and of course, only time will tell!

It should be noted too, the Amici wines command premium or even ultra-premium prices, the single vineyard designated collection offered at $750 for the four bottle set, and the Spring Mountain AVA Cabernet selling on their website for $150.

The Amici winemaking team is led by Tony Biagi and Jesse Fox.

Amici Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

This 2016 release was awarded 94 points and 'Editors Choice' by Wine Enthusiast, 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon blended with small amounts of Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

The Amici website publish notes on this wine dating back to the 2010 vintage, (skipping the troubled vintage year of 2011).

The critics sum up this wine well in their notations: Dark cherry, black currant and dark chocolate melt on the palate, with a core of earthy cedar, clove and pencil shavings, with a bite of thick tannin taking on a leathery texture. (Wine Enthusiast). "Classic dark fruits and floral notes, medium to full body, light tannins ..." Jeb Dunnuck.
 
James Suckling suggests give it some time to settle, which I also support.

We found this bright vibrant fruit filled, needing some time to integrate and hopefully develop a bit more harmony and balance, lacking complexity with a predominant sprite or accent of bright cherry plum fruit turning to a layer of mocha and floral.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2928750

https://www.amicicellars.com 


Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Long Shadows Saggi 2017

Long Shadows Vintners Series Saggi Sangiovese Blend 2017

We just received our Vault Key Club release allocation shipment of Long Shadows Vintners Series which included this Saggi Sangiovese Red Blend 2017. We discovered and signed up for this during our Washington Wine Experience when we visited the winery tasting room in Woodinville last fall.

Our visit to Woodinville was part of our Seattle Culinary and Wine Experience. During our visit to Long Shodows we discovered and acquired this wine. This is a selection of the Long Shadows Vintners Collection, a portfolio of seven ultra-premium wines showcasing the viticulture of the Washington State Columbia Valley growing region and the artwork and expertise of internationally acclaimed winemakers who crafted them.

Long Shadows was founded in 2003 by Washington State wine legend Allen Shoup, former Chairman and CEO of Chateau St Michelle, one of the premiere wine producers in the State. There he evangelized Washington Wines and championed collaboration with notable winemakers from around the world. Upon retiring, he started Long Shadows with a vision to produce the best, art of the possible wines showcasing/featuring the region's grapes, each produced by a world renowned winemaker reputed for producing grapes of that varietal.  Each vintner had access to Washington State's best grapes and a winery to outfitted to accommodate a their exacting cellar specifications. The idea was a resounding success as the wines have received critical acclaim that grown with each vintage. The Long Shadow collection went on to win numerous awards, including recognition as Food & Wine magazine's "Winery of the Year."

The Saggi label is a Sangiovese blended from top Washington State vineyards, from Candy Mountain, a warm area of the Columbia Valley adjacent to Red Mountain that produces fruit with ripe, black currant aromas and flavors. From the cooler growing conditions in the Yakima Valley, the Boushey Vineyard produces Sangiovese that is lively red currant with bright strawberry notes. Saggi also contains Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Weinbau Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA, which contributes  structure and texture. Also in the blend is Syrah from the Bacchus and Den Hoed Dutchman vineyards, that add depth and complexity.

We talk about Den Hoed and their wines and our family connection in an earlier blogpost from our Seattle, Woodinville trip. 

The Saggi label selection was originally crafted by the father-son team of Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari, one of Italy’s oldest and most prestigious Tuscan wine families from A. & G. Folonari Tenute that produces a collection of small, ultra-premium wines from the family's numerous Tuscan estates. The Folonaris teamed with Allen Shoup to produce a wine that showcases Washington State's terroir with plenty of Italian character. Saggi (meaning "wisdom") is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.

Long Shadows founder Allen Shoup originally met the Folonaris through mutual friend Piero Antinori. It was Allen who introduce Piero to Washington State while at the helm of Chateau Ste. Michelle, and it was Piero's regard for the vineyards of the Columbia Valley that piqued the Folonaris interest in creating a wine true to Washington terroir with plenty of Tuscan character.  Gilles continues that tradition, honoring the quality and style of wines the Folonairs inspired. 

From 2006, Long Shadows director of winemaking and viticulture Gilles Nicault collaborated with the Folonaris on Saggi's vineyard sourcing, winemaking and blending.  From the 2016 release , Gilles assumed complete winemaking responsibilities for Saggi.

Saggi Long Shadows Vintners Series 2017

The winemaker's description of processing: "Handpicked grapes were gently crushed and fermented in small, two-ton tanks. Then, using a technique called saignée (French for “to bleed”), 5-10% of the juice was removed from the tank at the beginning of fermentation to increase the proportion of grape skins to juice. This results in a richer, more concentrated wine. Small lot, extended maceration for an average of 30 days provided refined tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Aged 18 months in all French oak barrels (60% new)." 
This was a blend of 59% Sangiovese from Washington State Columbia Valley Candy Mountain and Boushey vineyards, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon from Stone Tree vineyard and 17% Syrah from Boushey. 

Winemaker's notes for the 2017 Saggi: "A Sangiovese based blend offering vibrant aromas and flavors of wild strawberries, red currants and black cherries with appealing notes of cinnamon and sweet spice.  The flavors gain focus on the mid-palate with a layered richness, balanced acidity and polished tannins that carry the wine’s lengthy finish."

Bright ruby-colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced and polished, black currant fruits with notes of  cinnamon spice and cigar box, hints of cedar and vanilla with soft sweet tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3380916

http://longshadows.orderport.net/product-details/0591/2017-Saggi

Sunday, March 8, 2020

Melville Verna's Santa Barbara Syrah 2012

Melville Estate Verna's Santa Barbara County Syrah 2012

Pulled this from the cellar for casual mid-week sipping with some artisan cheeses. This is a 100% Syrah produced by Chad Melville and winemaker Greg Brewer. It is a single stand alone bottle in our cellar and we have no history with this wine.

California's Central Coast Santa Barbara County is not an AVA, but a region just south of San Luis Obispo that includes the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Maria Valley and Santa Rita Hills appellations. Wine has been produced in the area since the 18th century when Spanish missionaries planted vineyards. It wasn’t until the 1990s, however, that producers focused on growing premier grapes for fine wines. During the 1990s more than 10,000 acres of vineyards were planted, and today there are nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards.

The region gained recognition and prestige when the popular movie “Sideways” was shot there in 2004. Because the region is affected by maritime weather, it is relatively cool climate makes it ideal for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some Syrah. There are also some adventuresome new varietals being grown in the area and it will be interesting to see how they evolve in the coming years.

This label is from Santa Barbara County sub-appellation of Santa Rita Hills. It is an unusual east-west (or transverse) mountain range with close proximity to the cold Pacific ocean which brings consistent coastal fog, and steady afternoon breezes to create ideal conditions for growing 'cold-climate' Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah.

Grower producer Ron Melville and his sons recognized these exceptional conditions and founded  Melville Vineyards in 1996 in the heart of the Sta. Rita Hills and has since become one of the most highly-regarded estates in Central California. Melville, a businessman, developed 82 acres of vineyards in Lompoc, in the western Santa Ynez Valley, then later purchased more land in Santa Barbara County. The winemaker is Greg Brewer, who is also co-owner of Brewer-Clifton winery. The estate has 139 acres of vineyard planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Viognier.

Melville Estate Verna's Santa Barbara County Syrah 2012

Under the direction of Head 'Winegrower', Chad Melville, Melville’s full-time vineyard crew manage the vines to produce small amounts of intensely flavored/concentrated fruit. At the time of harvest, they consider the wines to already be made, and strive to be minimalist in their path from vine into the cellar aging their wines only in neutral French oak and stainless steel and utilizing whole cluster fermentation to contribute to the depth, structure, and complexity of their wines.

This was highly rated at 94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate who cited this as a highest QPR great value at this price point under $25 that he calls a "no-brainer purchase ....  some of the greatest values in the world of wine today". 

The Winemaker's Notes - "Dark electric purple in color, with aromatics of molasses, blueberry compote, beef carpaccio and hickory bark coming through initially. On the palate, intense and savory notes of hoisin sauce, iodine and squid ink mingle with hints of eucalyptus, mustard flower and lavender. Texturally the wine is velvety and streamlined, finishing with both grace and precision."

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, black fruits with accents of camphor, leather, tapenade and hints of creosote.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1758367

https://melvillewinery.com/

Sunday, March 1, 2020

David Arthur Estate Cab Duo


Comparison tasting of David Arthur Estate Cabernet Sauvignons ~ 2000 vs. Three Acre 2009

Bill and Beth visiting for the weekend from Charleston to attend OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night 2020, Bill brought from his cellar this David Arthur Cabernet. We trolled our cellar for a comparison tasting candidate and pulled another David Arthur Cabernet for the occasion. 

We visited the David Arthur estate together up on Pritchard Hill in the southern Vaca Mountain Range sitting at about 1000 feet overlooking the Silverado Trail of Napa Valley during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013The reason the elevation is so noted is that their flagship label is called Elevation 1147 for the exact height of their super premium offering source.

That visit offered us the opportunity to experience (and acquire) the then latest vintage releases of the then new Three Acre single vineyard designated label of Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon from the so-named vineyard on the property.

Today's tasting provided an interesting and fun comparison side-by-side of the David Arthur Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, and the David Arthur Three Acre Napa Cabernet 2009. These are the joys of owning a cellar and sharing selections with a fellow oenophile or wine geek.

David Arthur have 21 acres of vineyards planted on their Pritchard Hill estate. 


David Arthur Three Acre Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

My report from the tasting of this label release during our visit to the Estate back in 2013. 

"Three Acre is (was) a new label from David Arthur to expand the brand offering with further differentiation of the available fruits. This Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from three distinctive estate vineyard blocks, composed primarily of Cabernet Clone 337 noted for outstanding fruit character and bold tannins. 

This is a blend of 93 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7 percent Petite Verdot, this was aged in 85 percent new French oak barrels for 23 months. Only 338 cases were produced."


My tasting note from that visit. 


"Deep garnet colored, medium-full bodied, it presents blackberry, black raspberry, a layer of black cherry, and cassis with hints of flora, olive tapenade, spicy toasted oak, tones of toffee, maple, tea, tobacco and cedar turning to fine grained tannins on the finish." 


RM 93 points. 



Bill's Cellartracker tasting note from tonight's tasting: "Tasted this side by side with a 2000 David Arthur Cabernet (provided by fellow Pour Boy Rick)...an intriguing comparison which once again points out how neighboring plots of vines can produce distinctly different style wines. The ‘09 3 Acre was brighter and more fruit forward compared to the earthier, more brooding style of the ‘00 Cabernet. The 3 Acre was medium indigo in color. It revealed flavors of dark cherry, jammy blackberry and raspberry, a bit of tea and grippy tannins. While the 3 Acre is certainly full bodied, it becomes lighter next to the ‘00. Still an outstanding bottle."

WCC 90 points.

David Arthur Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

According to my Cellartracker records, I hold a decade of releases of this label dating back to 1998. Normally, when tasting such a wine, I'll drink the oldest vintage first as part of cellar investment and inventory management practices, except in cases where aging profiles dictate certain longer lived vintages be held opposed to some younger ones with shorter drinking windows.

We didn't see a '98 which I would've chosen, so I opted for the next oldest vintage. I need to go see if my records are wrong or if that bottle is hiding elsewhere in the cellar.

While these are two different labels, they are no doubt sourced from fruit from the same vineyards, albeit the Three Acre was more selectively chosen from but three blocks.

I found the 2000 to be less polished, less complex and slightly narrower or one dimensional in the tasting profile compared to the Three Acre.

This would be explained by the blend of 7% Petit Verdot in the Three Acre, and perhaps the more complex barrel aging. It could also be attributed to variations in the vintages harvest. Lastly, it could also be attributed to age as the fruits from the older twenty year old release start to fall off. This was my first tasting of this label vintage so I have no other experiences of notes against which to compare.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright lively forward blackberry and black currant fruits with subtle tones of tea and hints of cassis and leather on the tangy lively acidic finish.

RM 90 points.

Saturday, February 29, 2020

OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2020

Another year has passed and despite the leap year, the last Saturday night in February is time for - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night.  This is the 21st year for the annual event wine bachanalia, originally conceived by  Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, is for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  


Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. Gaiter and Brecher realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because so often, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not.

This year we passed the baton to Dan and Linda to host OTBN. All the 'Pour Boys' were in attendance along with Eric and Cathy from Indy and Bill and Beth coming back from their new winter haven in Charleston for the occasion. We were able to get together the evening before for a OTBN warm-up and preview. Thank you, Dan and Linda for hosting OTBN 20.

Dan and Linda put out a spectacular spread of bacon wrapped figs, shrimp scampi, a vast selection of artisan cheeses, olives, proscuitto, smoked salmon, candied bacon, fresh fruits and vegetables, truffles spreads, dips and other hors d'oeuvres


For the pre-dinner wine flight there was a broad selection of Champagnes and white wines: 

Sebastien Dampt Chablis Chardonnay 2017
Y de Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2017 
Krug Clos du Mesmil Champagne 2004
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut La Grande Dame 2008
Sea Smoke Gratis Chardonnay 2008


For dinner, Dan and Linda served beef tenderloin, baked ham, brussel sprouts and tortelini in cheese and truffle garlic sauce. 

The broad wine flight was Bordeaux varietal centric from Napa Valley with a duo of Shiraz' from Australia and Walla Walla, Washington, and a Vintage Port. 

Dunn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Caymus Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 
FontanaFredda Lazzarito Barolo 2008
Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989
Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Opus One Red Blend 1996
Cliff Lede Cinnamon Rhapsody Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Godspeed Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Two Hands Lily's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2010
Cayuse "Bionic Frog" Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2012 
Grahams Vintage Port 2000


As always, the beginning of the event is spent determining the order of the tasting. This is part of the fun of the event, but also essential, because if the tasting is not done in proper order, the wines will be significantly less enjoyable and less appreciated. 

As with most years, as the evening progressed we validated our initial lineup and only made but a few very minor adjustments. Getting it right is due to experience in tasting these wines over time and over their many stages of aging. Its somewhat amazing how close we get the tasting order right, how few adjustments we make over the evening, and what a remarkable difference it makes in the enjoyment of the wines.

We started the flight with straight up Cabernets, expecting them to be simpler, more singularly dimensional and less complex than the blends. We also started with the older vintages as their sprites would likely be more subdued from aging and thus harder to discern. Later in the tasting they would be overshadowed by the heavier more complex wines.

Some of the highlights of the evening:

Dunn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

I brought this from our cellar as a classic OTBN wine, one that begs for an occasion that may never seem ready to drink.

Our Cellartracker records indicate we hold no less than thirty-one vintages of Dunn Vineyards cabernets dating back to 1981. We visited Dunn Vineyards estate high atop Howell Mountain and met the legendary winemaker Randy Dunn back during our Napa Wine Experience 2008.
 
My notes from an earlier tasting of this label: I opened and decanted this and a Howell Mtn about four hours before dinner. The Howell crumbled but the Napa cork was perfect, as it were a two year old! Neither this or the Howell showed any sign of aging. Very Bordeaux like with dark inky garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, complex and balanced black berry fruits with tones of lead pencil, tea, tobacco and hints of cedar and leather with acidity turning to modest tannins on the moderate finish. 


I've written often about the much heralded '97 vintage for Napa Cabernets and how they seem to never be ready to drink. Alas, tonight this long-lived label was indeed showing its age and perhaps has reached a point where it is revealing its true character and profile. It may finally be the right time for this release.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, black fruits accented by graphite, tobacco, mushroom, leather and anise, firm but approachable tannins on a smooth acidic finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=7960


Caymus Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

We tasted this earlier in the order because Caymus tends to be rather lighter than the mountain fruit of the Diamond Creek, and we wanted to pair or match the two Insignias together.

Ernie brought this as a mini-horizontal to compare with the '96 Opus that he also brought from his cellar.

We're longtime fans of Caymus and consider it a classic Napa Cab for consistent quality drinking and early gratification, although don't necessarily consider it one for long term aging.  Linda and I visited the Napa Estate during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018.

In 2011, I noted this wine in a tasting note: "This wine was opened two and a half hours ahead of time and burst with floral on initial tasting. Dark garnet color and medium bodied. Predominant throughout in the tasting, the bright vivid floral perfume highlighted the soft delicate nicely integrated fruits, harmoniously balanced and polished - currants, black cherry, subtle hints of vanilla, oak, spice, milk chocolate and cigar box with a moderate tannin lingering floral finish. At fifteen years old, this wine showed no sign of deterioration or diminution. After initial moments of brilliance, the fruit later fell off to slightly tart black cherry with a subtle leather finish took over, still accented by dusty rose petals and floral." At that time I gave this 93 points.

Tonight, at 24 years, this seemed to be a bit past its prime and was showing a diminution of the fruit, devolving into more raisin and prune notes.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1655

Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006


Bill brought this from his cellar and we looked for a Red Rock Terrace singe vineyard designated label in my cellar for a comparison by I didnt have one that wasnt being held for special birthyear celebrations. 

We visited Diamond Creek Vineyards with Bill and Beth for a private tasting back in 2011, then again at the Diamond Creek Open House and Release Tasting in 2017 with them and Dan and Linda for the Release  Party and Open House at the Estate. 

This release was awarded 93 points by Connoisseurs Guide. 

Bills Cellartracker notes on this bottle: "Complex, layered and rich. Shared this on OTBN and it was spectacular. Deep indigo in color. Nose of damp leaves and earth...very Bordeaux like. On the palate, blackberry, blueberry and plum up front; coffee, chocolate and eucalyptus on the mid palate; medium, silky tannins, a touch of oak and leather on a lingering finish. This will certainly last longer but is certainly at peak right now."

My notes - This was elegant, bordering on exotic, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex with concentrated black berry and black currant fruits accented with layers of coffee, vanilla, caramel and notes of cedar. 


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579477

Godspeed Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Eric brought this along with a couple of whimsical labels. We visited Godspeed together along with Bill and Beth up on Mt Veeder during our Napa Valley Mt Veeder Wine Experience 2011 when we tasted and Eric likely acquired this label. 

My tasting notes from a tasting back in 2016 for this label follow.

Dark blackish purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic, black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors, a bit tight and firmly structured with tones of truffle and spice with hints of cedar, tobacco and green pepper, turning to moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 90 points.  

Bill wrote a note on it back in 2012: "Nice quaffable wine. Evidences bright fruit typical of Mt. Veeder cabs. Medium bodied, garnet in color, a bit of clove on the nose but not terribly complex."

WCC 86 points. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/godspeed-mt-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon.html 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

This is one of Dan's signature wines in his cellar. Knowing Dan was going to serve an Insignia, I pulled from our cellar this aged thirty year old Insignia for a mini-vertical comparison.  Our visit and private tasting at the fabulous Robert Phelps Estate was one of the highlights of our Pour Boys Napa Wine Experience in 2017.

This release was awarded  91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. I found and acquired several bottles of this release in the library cellar at Kahn's Wines in Indianapolis several years ago and had been waiting for the right occasion to serve - a perfect candidate for OTBN. 

Some Cellartracker notes ...fellow tasters' notes summed it up well, similar to our experience.

Getting a bit lighter shade of garnet in the glass, no bricking at all. Cork was saturated to about 3/4 of the way and soft, glad to open this now. Slight earthy cedar on the nose, on the palate orange peel, slight honey, mushrooms, most of the fruit has faded Ito the background, with an extended finish.

Color: dark red core, a little bricking at the edges but not too much
Nose: aromas of mint, pencil lead, green bell pepper, a touch of leather and spicy currants and plums


Palate: the pencil lead and green bell pepper lead the way over the palate, with currants, spice, and earthy notes that trail and add complexity. The tannins were fine, but still present, especially at the end of the finish.

 
Garnet colored, slightly opaque, this was medium bodied, lighter than I expected, with dark berry fruits, notes of anise, spice, plums and currants. A mere shadow of the bigger, more concentrated and fruit filled 2006, not due to age, but likely indicative of a lesser vintage and perhaps lesser selection of the fruits.

The '89 release was a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from 79% estate & 21% grower vineyards: 79% Banca Dorada Vineyard (Rutherford) and 21% Oakville growers.

Robert Parker gave this release 91 points in 2013. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14182

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This was one of the highlights of the evening in my book, perhaps the best bottle of the tasting (of the Bordeaux varietals). As I noted above, our visit to the Phelps magnificent estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2017 when we did a private tasting together.

This is a Bordeaux Blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot from 100% estate-grown Napa Valley vineyards: South Napa (33% Suscol Vineyard), Stags Leap District (17% Barboza Vineyard and 12% Las Rocas Vineyard), Rutherford (20% Banca Dorada Vineyard), St. Helena (10% Home Ranch Vineyard) and Oak Knoll District (8% Yountville Vineyard). 

This vintage was awarded 95 points by Connoisseurs Guide, 94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points by James Suckling and Vinous.

The winemaker's notes: The opaque, inky color of the 2006 Insignia is followed by concentrated aromatics of lush black fruit, graphite, coffee, dark cocoa powder, licorice, and cola syrup. The flavor density and tannin balance integrate beautifully for a long, layered finish.

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, deep, concentrated, plush, ripe dark blackberry and dark currant fruits with complex but wonderfully balanced tones of mocha, tea, creosote and oak with smooth polished tannins on a nice smooth finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1448201

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Opus One Bordeaux Blend 1996

Opus One was founded as a joint venture between Mouton Rothschild and Robert Mondavi, the two  first growth brands of Bordeaux and Napa Valley respectively. The first release in 1984 was the its first vintage, the 1979. It has since become an international luxury Bordeaux-style blend cult wine, produced at the iconic landmark Napa Valley winery comprising 169 acres of vineyard on the Route du Cabernet, St Helena Highway Rt 29, across from the legendary landmark Robert Mondavi winery.

We visited the classic Opus Estate and Chateau in Napa,  back during what at the time was billed as our fourth Napa Wine Experience in 1998. It was served as one of the feature wines of our winemaker dinner that year.

I must admit, I have yet to taste an Opus that has lived up to its lofty stratospheric reputation expectations. I can only link that underachievement to the fact we have drunk the vintages too young, and perhaps also didn't serve them with the proper reverence they demand and deserve, opening several hours before serving and decanting appropriately. Or, perhaps it is the lofty price that raises the expectations. Also, these super premium wines are noted not for their obtuse angles or highlights, but often by their uniformity and singularity as they tend to be flawless and thus highlighted by the moderation and lack of any distractions.We see this later with the Bionic Frog from Cayuse as well.

This vintage release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points by Decanter, 92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar and 90 points by Vinous.

The 1996 blend included Malbec, which first became a component of Opus One in 1994, and it was the last Opus One not to include any Petit Verdot, a grape that has been part of the blend ever since 1997. 

My Cellartracker records indicate we drank our last bottle of this release back in 2013 when I wrote: "The '96 Opus was dark inky purple colored, medium to full bodied. It opened with a huge nose, reminiscent of a classic Margaux from the mid-eighties. Elegant, complex, smooth and polished it was a symphony of black fruit flavors accented by harmonious tones of leather, tobacco, lead pencil and soft tones of cassis and a hint of mocha. Decanted, over the course of the evening the fruit became slightly muted giving way to classic left bank Bordeaux earthy leather, but never losing its harmonious balance. The fragrant finish continued to linger for minutes." I gave it a 94 points rating then. Perhaps tonight we didn't serve it appropriately to so as to reveal its true potential. 

Dark garnet/purple colored, complex, medium-full bodied, harmonious and balanced, silky smooth, elegant, polished but somewhat subdued blackberry and black currant fruits accented by cassis, plums, leather, with hints of mocha chocolate, tar, leather, tobacco and fresh herbs, finishing with dusty tannins and excellent balanced lingering length.

RM 92 points. 

Cliff Lede Cinnamon Rhapsody Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Billl is a big Cliff Lede fan and member of their club so he gets these limited production, single vineyard selections, which he kindly shares with special friends, Thank you. Our visit and private tasting with Bill and Beth at the Cliff Lede estate was highlight of our Napa Wine Experience in 2009.

WWC's notes on this release - Another contribution to OTBN along with an ‘06 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace. Very different from the RRT but delicious in its own way, Medium to dark garnet in color. Nose contains mostly floral notes with a hint of earthiness. Bright, jammy, red raspberry and blackberry up front; a bit of sharpness that I have come to expect from Stags Leap along with a bigger mouthfeel on the mid palate; a long, warm, oaky finish with grippy tannins.

This release got 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Wine Spectator. 

This was a blend of  85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec and 1% Merlot.

This was my second wine of the evening behind the Insignia of the Bordeaux varietals.

This was dark garnet colored medium-full bodied with black berry fruits accented by notes of cassis, spice and earth tones.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1352710

Cayuse "Bionic Frog" Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2012

John always brings a most imaginative and rare label to OTBN and this year was no exception. This is one of the classic cult labels from the iconic Walla Walla producer Cayuse.

We stopped at the Cayuse tasting room during our Walla Walla Wine Experience last fall and there posted on the door a sign that said "Sold Out", with instructions on how to contact them if you were seeking to pick up your allocation.

This release got 99 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 96 points Wine Enthusiast, 95 points from Vinous, 94 points from Wine Spectator, and 17/20 points from Jancis Robinson.

Like another near perfect rated Syrah we tasted recently, the iconic Penfolds Grange from a classic vintage of the century, 1990, rather than being a blockbuster, this impressed us with its subtlety and level flawlessness.

Dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, intense rich concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by notes of pepper, cassis, smoke and dried meat or what one Cellartracker tasted noted as tapenade.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1683790

https://cayusevineyards.com/static/wines-bionic-frog.aspx

Two Hands Lily's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2010

Lyle brought this Aussie Shiraz from his cellar and it overshadowed the Bionic Frog with its bright brilliant bold fruit. The difference is it being more single dimensional. I describe the difference in such wines and being a foot wide and a ten feet deep versus the Bionic Frog being much more complex and multi-dimensional at five feet wide and five feet deep. 

This was one of the biggest and brightest wines of the night, but a bit obtuse relatively, less polished and balanced than the other top performers, the Insignia, Cliff Lede and Cayuse.  

This got 93 points from Wine Spectator, 92 points from Stephen Tanzer's Wine Cellar and 91 points from Wine Advocate.

Dark inky purple garnet colored, bright rich concentrated blackberry, black raspberry and cherry fruits with clove spice, mocha chocolate, expresso and menthol. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1367474

Grahams Vintage Port 2000

It is customary in these events that Lyle brings a vintage port from his collection. In recent years he has been disappointed by the showing of several labels, although the rest of us were not. Tonights selection was wonderful and met the highest expectations for the brand and the vintage. This may have been the best showing and best representation of a port in all our years of tasting together. 



At twenty years this was clearly at its prime but is perhaps only half way through its drinking window. What fun it will be to monitor this label as it ages, if you're fortunate enough to have acquired several bottles.


This iconic release got 98 points from  James Suckling and Wine Spectator, 94 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate,  

James Suckling of Wine Spectator said, "This is the greatest glass of Graham I have ever tasted, young or old." It was recognized in the Top 100 of 2003 at No. 9, Collectibles.

The 2000 vintage produced a very tiny crop, just 650 g per vine on average (they usually harvest 850 g per vine from Malvedos – their lowest yielding, most consistently cropping quinta). That said, the fruit was rich and concentrated. 

Saturated black-ruby colored, full-bodied, superripe, powerful, huge, dense and rich black fruits,  yet balanced and smooth, opulent yet elegant, notes of mocha bitter chocolate and licorice and cassis, the finish lasts for minutes going on and on on your palate. 

This is what a vintage port is supposed to taste like and this is a benchmark standard bearer. 

RM 97 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=192

 
Previous Pour Boys OTBN Events