Beau Vigne “Persuasion” Chardonnay with Chicken Ciaccatore

Beau Vigne “Persuasion” Chardonnay with Chicken Ciaccatore 

We just received our club shipment of “Persuasion” Chardonnay from Napa Valley producer Beau Vigne. Eager to try this new label, Linda prepared Chicken Ciaccatore for dinner for a food wine pairing. 

This proved to be a good pairing of the bold expressive Chardonnay with the Herbes de Provence, oregano and rosemary spices with tomatoes, mushrooms and wild rice of the chicken dish. 

We have featured in these pages several Beau Vigne big reds from this emerging, interesting Napa producer, who produces a wide portfolio of wines from estate and contract growers, and purchased lot sources. This is our first introduction to a white, in this just released Napa Valley Chardonnay. 

I wrote about and featured this producer in earlier blogposts, such as this one, Beau Vigne Napa Valley Red Blend 2013, excerpted here:

If the pedigree of the winemaker says anything, then Beau Vigne is in a distinguished class with 100-point winemaker Julien Fayard (Lafite Rothschild, Smith Haut Lafitte, Melka, Quintessa, Realm, Covert Estate), and where Dave Phinney was the founding winemaker! Note also, the collaboration with Philippe Melka, and contribution of another of our fav’s, winemaker Kirk Venge. 

I featured Beau Vigne in detail in a more extensive blogpost last summer - Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red, and several other blogposts such as the one’s below.

The producer writes - “Our Napa Valley winery is devoted exclusively to making influential luxury Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon Blends. Taking inspiration from our founding winemaker Dave Phinney who sought out to make red wines that would compete with the greatest wines of the world. This tradition was enhanced by the addition of winemaker Kirk Venge in 2008 through 2018/19 who obtained a perfect 100 Points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Present-day winemaking is now in the hands of Julien Fayard who hails from the legendary first growth Château Lafite-Rothschild and Atelier Melka before becoming the brilliant up and coming new winemaker in Napa Valley.”

Beau Vigne was taken over by Charles Bartlett when he purchased the brand in 2019 with the intent to carry on the dream created by Ed and Trish Snider, whom he has known for many years. Charles has worked in Napa since the late 1970s and has built a successful wine trading company, working with many of the top names in the mountain AVAs. 

Bartlett hired Julien Fayard to establish and oversee modern practices in the vineyard and in the cellar. The release of beau Vigne CULT Cabernet Sauvignon, beacme one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed labels with year-over-year 93 to 98 points from critics. Beau Vigne continues the tradition of hand-harvested grapes planted and grown on Atlas Peak, the Pritchard Hill region and other viticultural areas of Napa Valley including Howell Mountain, Oakville and Rutherford.

We featured other tastings from the Beau Vigne portfolio in these other earlier blogposts:  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-reserve-proprietary-red-wine.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-proprietary-red-byob-at.html

This producer first caught my attention when buddy Bob brought it to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite. Bob picked up the bottle at his local Total Wine beverage superstore in Boca Raton Town Center. I saw the label when there and also at the new Total Wine in Indy. 

Beau Vigne (pronounced bo-veenya), was founded by Ed and Trish Snider with their first vintage release in 2002. Translated from French it means beautiful vineyard in French.

Ed’s family had a long history in Napa Valley dating back to his Swiss Italian grandfather Martin Garzoli who arrived in Napa in 1913. He grew up on a ranch in Carneros and worked on farms in Napa and Sonoma. Martin made his own wines at home in the evenings. His son John Garzoli played for the San Francisco 49ers in 1955 and went on to coach football at St. Helena High School in the center of Napa Valley where children of many vintners attended school. A number of Ed’s former students are now in the wine industry.

In 2018, they sold Beau Vigne to Don Dady and Jason Kyle from Arizona. Jason was a former NFL football player, a long snapper for five different teams including the San Francisco 49ers. In addition to his wine interests, Jason is co-owner of Press Coffee Roasters with locations in Arizona.  Partner Dady is co-founder of Annexus, a financial company in Scottsdale and also owns Seven Apart Winery in Napa Valley just north of the city of Napa. 

Beau Vigne sourced fruit for their estate wines from their 10 acre Stags Ridge Vineyard at the top of Soda Canyon Road on the slopes of Atlas Peak at about 1650 feet elevation. The site was planted to 8 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ed sold the vineyard and it is now a part of Seven Apart Winery’s estate. Beau Vigne continues to source grapes from there and other premium vineyards in Napa Valley. 

Since 2019, Beau Vigne has partnered with Appellation Trading Company to distribute Beau Vigne as part of their portfolio of brands. 

Over the years, Beau Vigne has been crafted by several highly regarded Napa Valley winemakers. Their founding winemaker was Dave Phinney who went on to develop several successful brands, most notably, Orin Swift Cellars and the Prisoner portfolio of wines. One of our favorite winemakers, Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards has also crafted Beau Vigne wines. Today the winemaker is Julien Fayard.

Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. He worked at legendary Chateaux Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite in Bordeaux before relocating to Napa Valley where he was Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before setting out on his own.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis. 
Recently, Beau Vigne became part of a select collection of vintners represented at Vintner’s Collective, the city of Napa’s oldest collective tasting room. They showcase wines from an elite group of premier Napa Valley producers who do not have their own tasting rooms. Select bottlings and vintages of Beau Vigne are available for tasting and purchase there. 

Beau Vigne bottles wines under three different brands; the Legacy Series, the Signature Series and the Discovery Series. This new release is from their “new expressions”  Discovery Series. 

Winemaker’s Notes - “Beautiful aromas of golden apple, with hints of lemon and a touch of jasmine. As the wine opens up it shows great characteristics of toasted brioche that will linger. The wine is vibrant with a lot of tropical aromas and a bright acidity.” 

This was golden straw colored, medium bodied, bright expressive and bold flavors of apple and tropical fruits with unique accents of what the producer describes as jasmine and toasted brioche, with bright acidity on the crisp finish. 

This unique flavor profile is an ‘acquired taste’, different from a traditional Chardonnay, but a nice fitting complement to the moderate herbal spices and mushrooms of the dish entree shown above.

RM 91 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5556506

https://www.beauvigne.com/

Clark Claudon Estate Cabernet with BBQ

Clark Claudon Estate Cabernet with BBQ 

With left over BBQ Beef Brisket from earlier in the week, (Sharko’s BBQ with Yakima Valley Syrah), I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage Napa Cabernet. What a delightful surprise to find this exceeding expectations for a superb food wine pairing - accentuating and amplifying the enjoyment of both. 

We hold two decades of vintages in our ‘vertical collection’ of this label, dating back to the inaugural release in 1994. It’s times like this that we are rewarded for having a deep, aged cellar collection. 

I wrote about this producer and wine in detail in these pages in an earlier posting, which is excerpted and updated here: 

Clark-Claudon Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

In an earlier, similar situation, we also posted: we opened an old favorite wine from our extensive collection from one of our favorite producers, with BBQ Beef Brisket and mashed potatoes, and a selection of cheeses and sourdough bread, previously in this earlier blogpost:

Clark-Claudon Estate Grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Clark-Claudon Vineyards located in the Vaca Mountain range high above Oakville, Napa Valley, was founded in 1993 by Thomas Clark and Laurie Claudon Clark. The couple had lived and worked in Napa Valley for 20 years as grape growers but eventually decided to make wine under their own name. 

The Clark-Claudon estate is situated on the ‘backside’ of Howell Mountain in an area known as Pope Valley. We have fun with this label as fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth C's maiden name is Pope. Clark-Claudon's 17 acres of vineyards are carved out of a 117 acre property located on the north east side of Howell Mountain between Ink Grade and Howell Mountain Road, from 800 ft to 1,200 ft elevation. It’s shallow, mountain soils, cool evening breezes and excellent sun exposure are ideal for a low yield of small, intense Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot grapes. The 17 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon are planted with clone 7 which grows well in hillside rocky soil and produces small berries with concentrated flavors. A small vineyard block is planted to Petite Verdot. After completing their initial vineyard planting, Clark decided to leave the remaining 100 acres of forests, creeks, meadows and ponds in their natural state which serves as a preserve for native birds and wildlife.

Interesting, following my discussions in another earlier blogpost, I wrote about the terroir and appellation, and specifically about the line of demarcation being at the 1200 foot elevation level to differentiate between Howell Mountain and Napa Valley designation, due to effects of the fog from the valley that reaches up to that ceiling level. 

We have another such-situated Napa/Howell Mountain Cabernet. Similar to the Viader Napa Valley Cabernet Red Blend from earlier tastings, and the Blue Hall Vineyard Camiana Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that we drank the other night, this Clark Claudon Napa Cab vineyard is at 1000 foot elevation on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain. 

That terroir distinction doesn't apply here as the Clark Claudon property is on the backside of Howell Mountain which never sees the fog that is experienced on the Napa Valley side of the hill. 

We have been collecting this label since its introduction back in 1993 and hold two decades of vintages since. We first met Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon-Clark during our Napa Wine Experience 1999 when we hosted them at one of our wine producer dinners. That night, held at what was then Pinot Blanc Restaurant in St Helena (see picture above), we tasted Clark Claudon 1995-96 against ten year old 1989 Bordeaux, BYOB from our home cellars. 

During our Napa Wine Experience visits of 1997 through 2000 we hosted gala tasting dinners with the "'Undisccovered Dozen', emerging new wine producers to watch", featured in an article in Wine Spectator Magazine. Many of these producers released their inaugural vintage releases in or about the 1994 vintage. Those producers and winery visits included Plumpjack, David Arthur, Clark-Claudon, Robert Craig, Del Dotto, Elan, Paradigm, Pride Vineyards, Snowden, Nils Venge and White Cottage and are featured variously on my winesite http://www.unwindwine.com. A complete index of my tasting notes of these wines over the years is on the site at this link to California Producers Index. These producers make up a foundation of our wine cellar collection even today. In many of these wines, we still have vertical selections, several dating back to those early release vintages.   

We love the distinctive unique Clark-Claudon packaging with the tall slender bottles. An interesting and trivial wine-geek's observation about the Clark-Claudon branding and packaging; as mentioned, we hold close to a score of vintages of this label. 

All our vintage holdings but this one, the 2004 release, are packaged with the wax cap inside the rim of the bottle, topping the cork, as shown left. This one, 2004, has a 'traditional' foil top of the bottle (shown below). Not sure why?

This release was awarded 93 points from Wine Enthusiast who wrote, " ... it really needs time. Give it until after 2008, if you can keep your hands off, and will come into its own after 2010."

A decade later, going on seventeen years, this release is holding its own very nicely and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. The fill level, label and most importantly the cork were in perfect condition.

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "The 2004 Clark-Claudon Napa Cabernet Sauvignon blends fruit from all over the winery's estate, combining multiple expressions of the fruit. The higher portions of the estate yielded fruit that was rich, deeply colored with intense tannins. The lower portions of the estate produced softer, more perfumed wine."  Tonight's tasting was consistent with previous tastings in 2015, 2016 and most recently in the Spring of 2021. In 2016 I wrote it was more expressive than earlier tastings. I sense this is at its peak, not likely to improve further, but grand and capable of aging several more years none-the-less.

At nineteen years, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all still in pristine condition.  

Like before, the room filled with dark berry fruit aromatics as soon the cork was pulled. This was dark garnet colored, rich, full, concentrated, but nicely integrated and elegant black berry and black currant fruits with accents of cassis, mocha, floral and notes of spicy oak and hints of black cherry on a lingering fine-grained silky tannin finish.

What I did not expect was an extraordinary ‘bourbon barrel’ sprite in the wine that was a perfect complement to the tangy BBQ brisket and sauce. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=229261

In seeking to replenish this bottle with a more recent vintage of this wine, I looked in distribution and found none in Chicagoland, but got this response when searching national beverage superstore Total Wine - "We could not find this item at Pensacola, FL (our select store), But we found it at Denver, CO." We'll be reaching back to the producer directly, as well as looking in the secondary market. 

I’ve recently picked up a couple new labels of this producer on-line which I am holding and am eager to try - their ‘Eternity’ label and Three Stones Vineyard release.

A couple days later, we opened another vintage release of this label, for a mini vertical comparison tasting. 

Clark-Claudon Estate Grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

The 2001 vintage proved to be in that ‘Goldilock’s zone’, not too old to be past its prime drinking window, and not too young, such that it was now fully integrated and showed maturity from aging. 

Like the slightly younger release from a few days earlier, the label, wax capsule (caplet?) (in lieu of foil), fill level and the apparent cork seemed to be in pristine condition, albeit for the age, at twenty-four years. 

In light of the wax capsule or caplet, I set aside the also two pronged cork puller and attempted to extract the cork using a traditional waiter’s hinged cork screw. Alas, the cork pulled apart leaving the last quarter remnant in the neck of the bottle. I was able to extract the remains, intact using the Ahso. I should’ve known better and used the ahso from the start. 

The tasting profile was similar to the later vintage release, above, although the vibrant fruit and spice sprites were slightly subdued, giving way to some graphite, hints of smoke and leather tones, perhaps revealing vintage differences, as well as the additional four years of age. 

At twenty-one years, this was at the end of its optimal tasting window, and starting to decline going forward, hence time to drink in the near term of the next year or so.  

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Advocate, who compared it to “a great vintage of Chateau Margaux, tannic, backward, with a Bordeaux-like structure as well as a deep, rich, full-bodied personality.”

RM 90 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/436561

https://www.clarkclaudon.com

@ClarkClaudon 

Earlier tasting posts ...   

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/01/clark-claudon-howell-mountain-napa.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/12/festive-holiday-dinner-showcases.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/05/clark-claudon-napa-valley-cabernet.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/03/clark-claudon-napa-cabernet-2004.html

Unique Rhône White Blend with Lobster Marsala

Unique Rhône White Blend with Lobster Marsala for a delicious food wine pairing 

Linda prepared a delicious Lobster Marsala dish with medallions sautéed with creamed spinach and shallots in a Marsala wine sauce, served with mashed potatoes. 

To pair with the dish, I pulled from the cellar this unique Blend of White Rhône varietals. As I’ve written often in these pages, an optimal food wine pairing such as this amplifies the delight and appreciation of both the food and the wine. 

Carol Shelton "Coquille Blanc" Paso Robles White Rhône Blend 2021

This interesting "Coquille Blanc" label is from producer Carol Shelton,  a white Rhone-style blend from Paso Robles. This label was initially created in 2008 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of their winery in 2010. 

Carol developed a distinctive ‘nose’ for wine at a very early age when her mother developed an “identify the scent” game using herbs and spices out of their kitchen cabinet. Carol developed a keen sense of smell and became remarkably adept at figuring out new smells as the game evolved. As Carol recalls, “it was probably the beginning of my path into the wine industry”.

Carol enrolled at UC Davis in 1974, initially in an undeclared major with a penchant for language and an aptitude for science. While on a tour of Sebastiani Winery, she was inspired by the scent of red wine and oak in the air, and the power and complexity of aromas. It was then she decided to become a winemaker. She declared her major as Fermentation Science, earning a Bachelor’s degree in Enology. 

She was fortunate to gain experience working with legendary winemakers André Tchelistcheff at Buena Vista and Peter Lehmann at Saltram in Australia. 

In 1981, Carol began working for Rodney Strong and Windsor Vineyards. Over the ensuing 19 years as winemaker at Windsor, Carol had the opportunity to bottle 45 different wines each year, ranging from sparkling wines to port, to Zinfandel. She was drawn to the unpretentiousness and range of flavors and pursued further exploration of Zinfandel from different growing regions. 

In 2000, at the urging of Carol’s husband Mitch, she set out on her own, starting her own winery. With her husband and business partner, Mitch Mackenzie, they sought out exceptional vineyards throughout California including Dry Creek Valley, Rockpile, Russian River Valley, Fountaingrove District, Paso Robles, Lodi, Mendocino County, and the Cucamonga Valley of Southern California. She sought out and developed close partnerships with growers to source fruit for her wines that would express the unique terroir of the vineyard.

Carol Shelton was named ‘Winemaker of the Year’ five times, and was named one of eight Pioneer Women Winemakers of Sonoma County in 2005. She has won countless gold medals and accolades for her wines - her 2011 Wild Thing Zinfandel was included in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2014.

She characterizes this “exotic complex, food friendly white Rhone-style blend as a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc”. 

As Carol, the producer projected, this was the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish with buttery-cream sauce. Coquille, pronounced “ko-keel”, is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms. 

This is a blend of Rhône Varietals: 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 30% Viognier, and 10% Marsanne, 98% sourced from the Nevarez Vineyard in the Central California Coast Paso Robles Appellation.

Fermentation Characteristics: 100% barrel fermented, then stirred every Wednesday for 8 months: About 50% finished malo-lactic fermentation. 

It was aged 8 months in all older French barrels: 70% oak, 30% Acacia 25% 2-yr-old, 75% older/neutral 

Case production was 1069 cases.

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Exotic nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit. “

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and Wine Spectator.

The full body and complex full round fruit and spice flavors were a perfect complement to the lobster with the Marsala wine sauce. 

This was golden straw colored, medium bodied, complex, bright vibrant but nicely balanced pear, stone fruit and green apple flavors with notes of spicy peach, honey, lemon and honeysuckle and a hint of coconut, with fresh acidity on a lively lingering tangy finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4447685

https://www.carolshelton.com/

Sharko’s BBQ with Yakima Valley Syrah

Sharko’s Beef Brisket BBQ with Yakima Valley (Washington) Single Vineyard Syrah  

Wife Linda picked up Beef Brisket BBQ at Sharko’s in nearby Downers Grove, (IL), our favorite and arguably the best BBQ in the western suburbs. 

Sharko’s have a long history and legacy of restaurants in Chicago and the Western Suburbs dating back to the 1930’s, starting with a family butcher shop in Chicago opened by George Sharko. In the 1950's, Sharko’s sons Jerry and George promoted the Sharko brand selling spices, extracts, and small wares through catalog sales. 

In 1956 they opened Sharko's on 63rd St in Chicago, which was successful from the beginning, leading to 2 more additions and the start of a traditional family style menu. Joined by brothers Don and Greg, and Jerry Sharko’s son Ron, the business expanded with four more restaurants in East Chicago, Villa Park, Lisle and Lombard (IL), as well as banquet halls and a catering company. Greg eventually went on to start Sharko's Catering in Scottsdale, Arizona which is still thriving.

We dined at the Lisle Sharko’s restaurant back in the late seventies, a fine dining establishment that eventually closed when the site was taken over and incorporated into the vast Molex Corporation global headquarters campus. 

In recent years, Sharko’s opened in Naperville on the Freedom Drive restaurant row, then moved to the current location in Downers Grove. Sharko’s BBQ Sauce took 1st prize fat Naperville's First Rib Fest, an immensely popular event for more than a decade. 

For pairing with the Beef Brisket, we pulled from the cellar this limited release single vineyard designated Syrah. 

Arnaut “Avenida” Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley Syrah 2017

We wrote about this producer and this label last year about this time, in this blogpost, Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah, as excerpted here:

Last year, we eagerly opened this just acquired, highly regarded Columbia Valley Syrah. I admited I’d never heard of this producer or this highly acclaimed vineyard source, hence I was curious to try this highly rated label.. 

Avennia is the partnership project of entrepreneur Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson, founded in 2009 based on core principles; “a passionate commitment to signature vineyards and natural processes in the cellar - resulting in timeless, world class wines that are solely and undeniably Washington”. 

This approach and objective is similar to another high profile Washington State producer, Long Shadows, and their Vintners Collection Series of labels, which we love, and have collected as wine club members since discovering them on our trip to the region back in 2017. 

Interesting, that like Long Shadows, Avennia also sources their fruit from contract growers, and promotes their brand through three different tasting rooms in three of the major Washington State wine areas, Woodinville, Walla Walla, at their sole estate vineyard site in the Red Mountain appellation in Yakima Valley. We visited both the Woodinville and Walla Walla wine areas during trips to the region. 

In their first year of production, 2010, they acquired 16 tons of fruit that they transformed to wine that was ultimately released in 2012, Receiving much acclaim in that inaugural release, and affirming and building upon relationships in place with several of the state’s most legendary growers, the stage was set to secure the best fruit in the region for follow-on vintages. More than a decade later, the same core principles continue to guide the direction of the winery and the business.

Marty Taucher, Managing Partner, a native Oregonian, Marty graduated from Oregon State in 1977 and started at then upstart Microsoft in 1984. He went on to lead Public Relations and Event Marketing, then, spent his last five years as Director of Marketing and Brand Strategy for a consumer and online product group. 

In 2009, Taucher signed on as a crush intern at DeLille Cellars where he met Chris Peterson and together they laid the plans for what is now Avennia.

Always inspired by new ideas and fresh thinking, Marty is an angel investor. He serves on numerous non-profit boards. When he’s not in the cellar, he’s an avid golfer, a world traveler, and a perfectly reliable

Chris Peterson, Winemaker/Partner was engaged in the Washington wine industry for more than a decade,  working to make some of the state’s most heralded and award-winning wines at DeLille Cellars. 

Together they founded Avennia with the quest to showcase Washington as a unique and compelling place for great wines, acquiring fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington, with a specific focus on the grape varieties used in Bordeaux and the Rhône, in light of their similar latitude to Washington, which makes them a natural fit to excel there.

In thoughtfully choosing vineyard sites to match their winemaking style and preferences, they chose not only the vineyard sources themselves, but down to our favorite vineyard blocks. There is an emphasis on older vines, and moderate climates, as these features tend to create wine with more depth and complexity—a balance between fruit and non-fruit characteristics. 

They strive to craft wine that is balanced and harmonious - the fruit, acid, tannin, perhaps oak. 

Avennia "Arnaut - Boushey Vineyard" Yakima Valley Syrah 2017 

The 2017 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard is 100% Syrah from Dick Boushey's highly regarded vineyard on the western side of the Yakima Valley AVA, considered one of the state's premier Syrah vineyards. 

This is a cooler site, that tends to instill Northern Rhone-like character in the fruit. Dick Boushey was the first grower with whom Avennia partnered. 

From the Boushey site they source three different varieties which go into the three flagship wines. Boushey is best known for Yakima Valley Syrah and Avennia is the only winery that uses both of the oldest blocks of his coveted fruit. The combination of these two Syrah blocks makes up this Arnaut, a wine we have made since our first vintage, 2010. 

The older, called Grand Côte (meaning "great hillside”), produces wine that is piercingly pure and focused, with meaty and mineral aromas backing up its deep blackberry and damson plum fruit flavors. Wines from the second block, Factory Road, show richer body and feature savory cured meat notes, along with orange peel, and a distinct iron note. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Decanter, 93 pints by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, and 92 points by Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast, an Editor’s Choice. 

Aged 18 months in 15% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Case production was 354 caees

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "This vintage brings an exceptional level of finesse to Arnaut, but no shortage of the wild, savory aspects we expect from this wine. The nose features, blueberry, salted blackberry, charcoal-grilled pork chop, asphalt, bittersweet chocolate, bee pollen, and a hint of grapefruit pith. Rich and beautifully textured on the palate, with pure Boushey notes of blueberry reduction, bacon fat, cacao nibs, charcoal embers, and grilled thyme. The elegance here hints at this wine drinking well on release, and it should age nicely for 8-12 years." - Chris Peterson, Winemaker

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits are layered with intense forward notes of black pepper with accents of creosote, dark spices, black olive, black tea, garrigue, and cigar leaf.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3277603

https://avennia.com/

https://sharkosbbq.com/

Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe

Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe 

Hosting in-laws Pat & Rodger at The Cove, our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we dined at Henderson Park Inn Resort Beachwalk Cafe, on the deck watching the magnificent sunset over the waters of the Gulf (of America). 

I’ve written often in these pages about Beachwalk Cafe, one of our favorite dining spots on the Emerald Coast that we frequent each time we in town including these past dinner visits: 

Sunset dining at Beachwalk Cafe

Hope Cuvée at Beachwalk Cafe, Destin

Lewis Chardonnay BYOB at Henderson Beachwalk Cafe

Henderson Beachwalk Cafe Dinner with a view

Tonight, the ladies ordered and shared the signature Beachwalk Grouper Vince with Pecan Crusted, Crispy Potato Cake, Haricot Verts, Honey Worcestershire Sauce.

Both of the men ordered the Snapper topped with lump crab meat, with Corn Truffle Risotto, Madeira Mushrooms, Matchstick Truffle Fries in a Citrus Beurre Blanc sauce. 

I took from our remote Destin wine cellar, BYOB, this interesting aged, big, bold Rhône Valley varietal white blend from Santa Barbara County. 

Herman Story “Tomboy” Viognier 2011 

What a strange name for a wine label!?! Leave it to Paso Robles producer Herman Story, known for a whimsical, odd but creative branding strategy, with a broad portfolio of uniquely named labels such as Bolt Cutter, Casual Encounter, Milk & Honey and Nuts & Bolts, to release a label such as this. 

Proprietor, winemaker Russel From explains on each rear label the brand name inspiration - “Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales, and my grandfather ….”

The Herman Story website describes Winemaker/Producer …. “Before he was a winemaker, a self-proclaimed black belt, and an internationally renowned runway model, Russell always had a borderline-concerning obsession with great food and wine. After graduating from Cal Poly with a few winery internships (and a bunch of noise complaints) under his belt, he started Herman Story in 2001 with seven humble barrels of Syrah stashed in his employer's cellar.’

“What started as an homage to his grandfather grew into a lineup of the most boisterous, buckle-up-and-hang-on, Rhône-inspired wines on the Central Coast. Today, after 20+ years and a bunch more noise complaints, Russell hasn't lost a shred of his passion for wine, people, and perfectly seasoned ground beef. Off the clock, you'll find him whipping up salsa verde, floating the Salinas River, or trying to break the world record for longest distance pulling a Learjet 45 by beard.”

Russel applies his grandfather’s ‘teller to tales’ to his wines, with a story behind every label, for example:

Russel’s story behind the Nuts & Bolts label  …. “Single vineyard wines are sort of like kids on the Ivy League track; you just have to make sure that you don’t do anything that throws them off and you’ll see them succeed. Blends like Nuts & Bolts are a bit more like me, it takes some well timed advice, a bit of hand wringing and a lot of love to see them come into their own; but when they do they always take the limelight.”

The winemaker/producer’s tasting notes for his “On the Road Grenache” tell the story explaining the label name: “Driving up and down the Central Coast throughout harvest has it’s perks, sure I now know more places to find legit burritos than I ever thought possible, but aside from that I get to spend countless hours mulling over the best way to blend my Grenache lots.” 

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate describes Herman Story (winery and branding) - “Readers looking for super-concentrated, extroverted, exuberant, powerhouse wines from California's Central Coast need look no further than the Herman Story estate. For those who love the wild side of Rhone varietals pushed to the limit (but not over), these are highly recommended. Moreover, prices are exceptionally fair for this level of quality."

With it’s whimsical label, I’ve held this bottle in our cellar for over a decade, waiting for the right opportunity to open this label, taking the branding inspiration into account. I brought this bottle to Florida to perhaps open with Linda’s girlfriends during their visit last month, and finally, set an occasion with Linda and her sister, “farmer Ned Long’s daughters”, for tonight’s dinner. 

Russell’s Herman Story whimsical anecdotal story of this ‘Tomboy’ wine:

“I appreciate a sturdy woman, a lady who the wind isn’t gonna blow over. I also enjoy a woman with many layers; someone I need to take my time on to get to know properly. Once again, Tomboy floats my boat.” 

“You only know one person who can get bucked off her horse, break a few ribs, ride fifteen miles out of the hills, and show up in time to deliver a doozie of a closing argument. Brown sugar hair in a tight bun, cinnamon power suit, working the small-town jury box with candied peach logic and irrefutable grilled pineapple evidence, smooth as butter and spice. By the end, she’s got at least three in tears, and after the verdict comes out, she’s back in the saddle, because she’s not going to leave those cowboys shorthanded.”

This 2011 Tomboy is a blend of Rhône varietals - 83% Viognier and 17% Roussanne, sourced from the Larner, White Hawk, Denner & James Berry Vineyards in Santa Barbara County. 250 cases were produced. 

Our experience was summed up nearly perfectly by one reviewer who wrote - “Light gold color. Best Viognier I’ve ever had. Strong nectarine, honey, and buttered toast on the scent. Taste is tangy melon, followed by floral and earthy mineral notes, with a surprisingly spicy finish. So complicated.”

Russel describe an earlier vintage release of this label this way: “The 2009 vintage is a sturdy showing, indeed; a white wine that probably makes more sense to a red wine drinker than most red wines do. And multi-faceted is an understatement. This wine is so densely layered, it’s more likely to be recognized by MENSA than I ever am. It smells like crushed honeysuckle, wool shirts, lime zest, coconut, butterscotch, wood fire and pain perdue. It tastes like all of those things plus lychee, nectarine, white tea, thyme, orange marmalade and saltwater taffy. Actually, I stopped writing down what this wine tastes and smells like after an hour because my hand got tired. But mostly because I wanted to give it my full attention.”

Tonight, at fourteen years, the fill level was fine but the cork was dry and came apart upon opening using a traditional waiter’s cork screw. I delicately managed to extract the bottom remaining 1/4 of the cork. 

Deep golden colored, medium bodied, rich, concentrated, sharp and forward, zesty melon, lychee, pineapple and blood orange fruits, accented by a layer almost approaching butterscotch and buttery pain grille, with notes of coconut, spice, and hints of vanilla on the mineral laden tangy flavorful finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1528146

https://hermanstorywines.com/about-us/meet-russel/

https://hermanstorywines.com/

https://www.hendersonparkinn.com/

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin 

With visiting friends Eric, Cathy, Pat & Rodger, we dined at Captain Dave’s On The Gulf Seafood Restaurant in Destin, FL., a short walk from The Cove, our Destin vacation rental. 

Captain Dave’s On The Gulf is the oldest seafood restaurant in Destin, family owned and operated since 1968. It offers beach front views from the spacious high ceiling dining room overlooking the gulf. 

They feature the usual appetizers, soups, salads and sides. Their speciality is American seafood cuisine infused with a ‘contemporary Gulf Coast twist’. - the local fresh catch seafood dishes - Flounder, Grouper, Mahi Mahi, Snapper and Refish as well as shrimp, lobster and salmon as well as steaks and chicken dishes. 

“Captain Dave’s Faves” signature dishes are artfully prepared with imaginative preparations featuring their signature homemade sauces such as their Parmesan Italian Cream Sauce. Our veteran server provided prompt attentive gracious and friendly service. 

I enjoyed their Mahi Mahi with Parmesan Cream sauce last month and was eager to have it again, and, based on my raving about the entree, several of us ordered it as well. Everyone loved it, although, beware, the Parmesan crème sauce is rich and filling. 

I took from our cellar, BYOB, this Carneros Chardonnay for pairing with the fresh seafood dinners. With two attorneys at the table, it was whimsical and fitting that I selected a wine from an attorney turned wine producer. 

I wrote about this producer and label in detail in a blogpost back in 2023, Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Chardonnay with Grilled Salmon, excerpted here:

We have several bottles in this collection so I pulled this, the oldest vintage to consume as part of cellar management..  

Jayson Pahlmeyer was a successful trial attorney who started becoming hooked by the wine industry and slowly phased out his law practice in pursuit of developing his own wines. He partnered with John Caldwell, owner of a 55-acre site in south-east Napa Valley. Together, they began planting French clones of red Bordeaux varieties.

“All I wanted to do was to create my own ‘California Mouton’ – a rich, powerful Napa Valley Bordeaux blend, a wine that would drop wine lovers to their knees,” says Jayson Pahlmeyer.

He made several trips to France to find some of the highest quality Bordeaux varietal clones, seeking assistance over several years from viti-cultural professors at the University of Bordeaux who analyzed the soil samples, exposure, rainfall and temperature data from Napa. 

Jayson and his partner were able to acquire Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec vines and managed to smuggle their “suitcase clones” through Canada and then took them back to California where he planted his own vineyard.

“My closest advisors, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer told me ‘If you want to be a first-growth, you have to have your own vineyards,’” says Jayson Pahlmeyer. “I found this property in the eastern hills of Napa Valley that was owned by the Waters family - an incredible parcel with views to the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco skyline. John did the soil analysis, David Abreu studied the terrain, and speaking for all of them, Helen proclaimed it ‘paradisal’. It was rocky, desolate, low vigor, with good drainage. Perfect for growing Bordeaux varieties.

“I hired David Abreu to develop it, and Helen and Erin Green, Helen’s protégé and our longtime winemaker, selected the clones, which included those smuggled from Bordeaux that I had been using since my 1986 vintage.”

Planted in 1981, the French cuttings slowly adjusted. Pahlmeyer Wine released their first vintage in 1986 with the help of Randy Dunn, one of California’s foremost winemakers, the Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red was made and launched.

Helen Turley took over winemaking in 1993 and further improved the quality and consistency of Pahlmeyer wines. They started producing wine at the Napa Wine Co in 1994 soon after Napa Wine Co underwent a huge renovation to accommodate production from wineries who do not actually have their own physical winery at the time. 

Jayson’s daughter Cleo joined the team in 2008.

Today, the winemaker is Bibiana Gonzalez Rave. She received her oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and has worked at estates in Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Valley and other locations in addition to Napa Valley. She was named Winemaker of the Year for 2015 by the San Francisco Chronicle.

Jason Pahlmeyer understood that making wines with exceptional concentration, complexity, and ageability required venturing to extremes. That’s what drew him to the rugged parcel of vines on the ridgeline of Atlas Peak that would become his iconic estate vineyard. 

 

The Pahlmeyer estate vineyards include Water’s Ranch, Stagecoach, and Antica parcels, that all sit above 1,400 feet elevation where they benefit from three more hours of sunshine per day compared to lower altitudes that are often cloaked in morning fog. This additional sunlight ensures the berries achieve a deep, rich color and complex flavor compounds. 

 

Location, map and technical information for Pahlmeyer Estate Vineyard.

We love Pahlmeyer wines and have served special large format bottles of our son's birthyear vintage bottles at his wedding celebration and birthday dinners as posted in these pages -  

Pahlmeyer Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Red Blend 1990, and,

Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Pahlmeyer "Jayson" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

Over the years, the portfolio grew to also include the "Jayson" brand that includes several reds, and a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines that sourced from lower elevation vineyard sites including some on the valley floor and in the Carneros region at the lower end of Napa Valley near San Pablo Bay. 

With daytime temperatures averaging 5-10 F cooler, our mountain vines respire less acidity to produce energy; the acidity retained in the grapes results in greater freshness and balance in the wines. Cooler temperatures also prolong the growing season, allowing the clusters to hang longer on the vine and achieve optimal flavor development. The Pahlmeyer Rancho Chimiles parcel, while slightly lower in elevation, sits close to the San Pablo Bay and enjoys cooling afternoon breezes that moderate temperature.

Tonight this big bold rich Jayson Chardonnay was ideal with our grilled mahi mahi and grouper dinners. 

Ironically, the week of that earlier blogpost, Pahlmeyer Twitter ('X') site features their Chardonnay harvest. 

 

This wine is a marriage of three distinctive Napa Valley regions: bright, elegant Carneros hillside; and rich, ripe St. Helena valley floor; with intense mountain fruit at its core. 

This was vinted by Winemaker Bibiana González Rave and blended by Jennifer Williams

Winemaker Notes - “This wine has brilliant golden straw color and aromas of warm spice, tangerine, and sweet orange; intriguing tropical floral notes carry over onto the palate. Flavors of ripe pear, apricot, and mango peel are accented by warm spice and rich caramel, for a wine that is both weighty and fresh.’

“The grapes were hand-sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After settling overnight, the juice was fermented in barrel, including 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in 35% new French oak barrels for eleven months.”

At eight years of age, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all ideal. This was likely at the end of its prime drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather likely to start to diminish going forward, so it was time to drink. 

 

Similar to earlier tasting notes for this label, this was deep golden colored, medium full bodied, rich full bold apple and tropical and stone fruit flavors with hints of pineapple with a rich layer of vanilla and caramel/butterscotch with accents of oak, grapefruit and minerality on a roasted nut finish acidic finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3105647

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/vintage/2017-jayson-chardonnay/

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/

https://twitter.com/Pahlmeyer

https://www.captdavesonthegulf.com/

BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines

 BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines 

Visiting The Cove, our Destin, FL, vacation rental with friends, and in-laws, all from Indiana, Linda prepared BBQ ribs with corn on the cob and baked potatoes, and salad. 

To accompany the dinner, I opened two wine from Indiana producers, one from a winery and vineyard we all pass often on the highway, and another, from near our Alma Matre Indiana University down in Bloomington.

I’ve written about Carpenter Creek Cellars and their Indiana Produced Wines in these pages in this earlier blogpost. 

 

I also opened this 50 year anniversary iconic Napa Cab, to commemorate all of our Fiftieth’s, as we were in each other’s weddings, a long while ago, but this was the first time we’d all been together since our anniversaries. 

We served this wine as part of our celebration wine flight during our Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN, featured in these pages in this blogpost, and several other vintage releases for such applicable anniversaries over the years. 

Eric picked up and brought two hearty big red wines for the occasion - each a perfect complement to the BBQ. 

 

 

I opened and served this Aussie Cab/Shiraz blend first, thinking it would be bigger and more complex than the Prisoner, and was wrong, as they turned out to have the opposite relative profiles from what I expected. Fun with Mollydooker, as Eric, as well as Linda are Mollydookers - (Australian for left handed person (s)). We’ve written about Mollydooker and our fun with their portfolio of wines often these pages …  

Finally, we closed with this unique Indiana Red Dessert wine. Too sweet for most, but inviting with Tiramius dessert, and the salad! 

Great food, fun, fellowship, celebrating, reminiscing…. Fun with wine!