Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG

Returning from our Destin (FL) vacation home, we dined at our newest favorite go-to eatery, Entourage in nearby Downers Grove (IL). Planning to select their fabulous meat loaf or beef stroganoff entree, I took BYOB from our cellar this vintage aged premium Bordeaux Blend. 

I ordered what has become one of my favorite dishes, Wagyu Meatloaf Sundae - Truffle + Parmesan Whipped Potatoes, Brioche, Wild Mushroom Gravy,  Vegetable Succotash topped with Crispy Onions.

A mini horizontal tasting of sorts, following two other similar wines from this same vintage, I selected another 2005 vintage release of a premium label from the same appellation, region. 

I wrote about the other two labels in these two recent blogposts - Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff, and Sociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak.

Like the Clos du Marquis, this is also from the St Julien appellation, the Gruaud Larose estate sitting less than three kilometers (1.6 miles) away. 

And as we did with Leoville Las Cases, we also visited the Gruaud Larose estate during our visit to the area in 2019, as featured in my blogpost at the time - A Visit to Château Gruaud-Larose St Julie Beychevelle Bordeaux. 

It was one of the key visits on our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux was Château Gruaud-Larose, a 2ème Cru Classé or 'second growth', one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) as classified in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855.

During our spectacular week in St Julien, we visited Léoville du Marquis de Las Cases, producers of the recently tasted Clos du Marquis featured in these pages, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and Léoville-Poyferré, three other second growth St Julien producers, and Fourth Growth  producers Château Beychevelle and Château Branaire-Ducru. As with all the others, we hold or have consumed a selection of Gruaud Larose dating back several decades to the early eighties. 

This label is one of my favorite Bordeaux and key holdings in our cellar collection consisting of more than a dozen vintages spanning three decades dating back to 1980 including the birth year vintages of each of our kids, 1981, 1982, 1985 and 1990. We hold many vintages in large format bottles including 3 liter double magnums which we served at daughter Erin's and son-in-law Johnny's wedding. 

This is a wine that demands, but then rewards holding for the long term and several years if not decades of cellaring. 

Château Gruaud Larose is one of the most historic estates in the Médoc dating back to 1725 when Abbot Gruaud bought just under 125 acres of land and planted vineyards. Since then, four families have succeeded one another at the head of Gruaud Larose: the Gruaud and Larose families, the Balguerie and Sarget families, the Cordier family and the Merlaut family.

In 1812, the property was sold to Pierre Balguerie, Baron Jean Auguste Sarget and David Verdonnet.

Shortly after the official 1855 Classification of the Medoc, control of the property was split further among their descendants, but remained intact until 1867 when it was split into Château Gruaud-Larose-Sarget (after the Baron Sarget) and Château Gruaud-Larose-Faure (after Adrien Faure, who married the heiress to a portion of the estate).

Baron Sarget constructed the château on the property in 1875. The other half of the original vineyard remained with the Bethmann descendants. The wines were bottled and sold as both Chateau Gruaud Larose Faure and Chateau Gruaud Larose-Bethmann at different times.

The two château were reunited by the Cordier family, who purchased the Sarget piece in 1917 and the Faure piece in 1935 and the château became a centerpiece of the Cordier properties along with Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey and Château Talbot.  

The Cordier family had been negotiants since 1886. They acquired the Bethmann family holding in 1935. This allowed the Cordier family to recreate the original estate and the wine was renamed Chateau Gruaud Larose.

In 1983 it was purchased by the Compagnie de Suez, and in 1993 it was sold to the French conglomerate, Alcastel Alstom. In 1997 it was sold to Jacques Merlaut who also owns a broad portfolio of Bordeaux properties including Chateau La Gurgue, Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, Chateau Citran, Chateau Ferriere and Chateau Chasse Spleen. 

The Gruaud Larose Chateau and estate sits just outside the village of St Julien-Beychevelle at the southern end of the appellation located on the plateau to the west of Château Beychevelle. on the opposite side of the D2 Route from Ducru Beaucaillou and Leoville Barton.

The vineyards of Gruaud Larose have the highest point of elevation on the Saint Julien plateau and has a distinctive 'tower' which serves visitors a vantage point to view the entire estate.

The 200 acres of vineyards are planted in the Bordeaux sanctioned varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%) with old vines averaging 40 years.The vineyards are adjacent to those of Chateau Talbot and Chateau Branaire Ducru which have smaller parcels. The property is divided into 110 parcels with the best terroir found in the 2 sections that surround the chateau and that adjacent to the park.

Chateau Gruaud Larose is known for wines that are concentrated, complex, full-bodied and long-lived, best consumed after several years of aging, typically at least 12 years or more, and often reach their peak maturity and optimal drinking window after 15 years and often last 35 years or more after the vintage release.

Chateau Gruaud Larose on average produces close to 18,000 cases of Saint Julien wine each year.

The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats, and aged in oak barrels for 20-22 months, renewed annually in thirds. 35% new oak.

This release was rated 98 points by Jane Anson, 95 by The Wine Independent, and 94 by Wine Enthusiast.

Pundits wrote, “You have really had to be patient for this wine, but it is utterly spellbinding, and starting to show its potential.” And, “This is one of the best wines from Gruaud-Larose for several years.”

With a similar sensation of the near perfect 100 point wine we drank recently, this is more notable for its lack of blockbuster boldness, that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, it’s remarkable for it’s lack of excessive notes and it’s flawless, and seamless polish with it’s harmonic integration.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color. medium to full bodied, that signature St Julien finesse, elegant, polished, finely balanced black currant, black and hints of red berry fruits with notes of herbs, dark black chocolate, cassis, black tea, truffle, hints of cedar and spice with a smooth layer of graphite and crushed rocks with firm, fine-grained tannins on a long finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/224096

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/en/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco

Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grassy Martinenga  Barbaresco Nebbiolo 2019 

Visiting our Destin, FL vacation rental, we had carry out pizza and pulled from the remote vacation home cooler this hearty premium Barbaresco (Nebbiolo). 

As is the case with a DOCG Barbaresco, this is 100% Nebbiolo. This is a single vineyard designated bottling named for the 30 acre Martinenga estate vineyard in the commune of in the Piedmont region that has been owned by Marchesi di Grésy since 1797.

Proprietor Alberto di Gresy spent his childhood on the estate and learned the intricacies of the site, its  soil and their products. Alberto began producing the wines of Tenuta Cisa Asinari of Gresy in 1973. Today the winemaker is Matteo Sasso.

The Cisa Asinari estates of the Marchesi di Grésy are part of Piedmontese winemaking history as their roots date back to the end of the 18th century, but it was Alberto di Grésy, in 1973, who founded the Marchesi di Grésy winery, as we know it today. 

He was a bit of a pioneer when he set out to produce quality wine on his own, from the grapes of Tenuta Cisa Asinari. At the time, all the grapes produced in the region were sold to cooperative wineries or larger wineries. 

Overall, the Marquises of Gresy estates actually consist of four distinct farms, the main one being the premiere vineyard of Martinenga. The others are those of Monte Aribaldo in Treiso, La Serra in Cassine, and Monte Colombo, also adjacent to La Serra. The total vineyard area across the various estates in the Langhe and Monferrato covers slightly more than 110 acres. 

They are planted to a range of varietals from whites of "international" grapes such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon, to the great classics of the Piedmont of Dolcetto and Barbera, and predominantly the prestigious and excellent Barbaresco, expressed in 3 different Crus. The vines average 35 - 40 years of age. 

The Martinenga. vineyard covers 30 acres in the shape of an amphitheatre, with Asili to the west and Rabaja to the north-east. Facing south-southwest, the vineyards have a favourable microclimate enabling the production of high quality grapes even in potentially difficult vintages. The vineyards are situated at 280 metres above sea level, and the soil is calcereous, with blue marl and a small percentage of sand.

Annual production is 15,000 - 20,000 bottles per year. For this release, 1,625 cases were made, 550 cases imported. 

Winemaker notes - The Marchesi di Gresy “Martinenga” Barbaresco  2019 has a fine, gently floral nose with wild cherry and redcurrant fruit. Spicy and lifted with notes of dried herbs. More sour cherry fruit on the palate, which combines richness and structure with dried fruit characters. Fresh acidity gives balance, and the finish is complex, savoury and textured with integrated oak.”

“Hand-harvested in early October. Ideal yield is no more than 6 tons per hectare. Vinification on skins - 8-10 days fermentation with floating cap followed by 20-30 days maceration with submerged cap, and daily pumping over. Malolactic fermentation is carried out at controlled temperature following alcoholic fermentation. The wine is aged in 225 litre French oak barriqes for 12 months and then 50 hl Slavonian oak casks for a further 12 months. Further ageing in bottle before release.”

Red cherries, dried roses, stewed fruits, orange citrus and lovely tannins. A great vintage, showing all of the top qualities of Barbaresco with both intensity and a softness that embraces the entire palate. An instant classic.

Nebbiolo is the primary grape of wines from two Italian wine regions, Barbaresco and Barolo. Nebbiolo ripens earlier in Barbaresco than in Barolo, primarily due to the vineyards’ proximity to the Tanaro River and lower elevations. While the wines there are still powerful, Barbaresco expresses a more feminine side of Nebbiolo, often with softer tannins, delicate fruit and an elegant perfume.

Nebbiolo, named for the ubiquitous autumnal fog (called nebbia in Italian), and is the primary varietal grape of northern Italy’s Piedmont region. Grown throughout the area, as well as in the neighboring Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina, it reaches its highest potential in the Piedmontese villages of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. 

This wine was rated 93 points by both James Suckling and Wine Spectator, Jeb Dunnuck 92 Points, and Vinous and Kerin O'Keefe 90 points. 

Dark opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, structured but smooth, polished, sleek red cherry and berry fruits with notes of floral, clove and cinnamon spice, black tea and hints of smoke and creosote turning to soft moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4410550

Grill on Main Providence Village, Huntsville

The Grill on Main Street Providence Village, Huntsville

Enroute to our Cove vacation home in Destin, FL, we overnighted near Huntsville, AL We discovered a delightful neighborhood, community, Providence Village Town Center, just north of Huntsville city center. 

The tony area features numerous eateries and shops including The Grill on Main Street. 

The Grille on Main is in a landmark building on Main Street at Providence Village city center across from a park and adjacent a large patio courtyard.  There is a large interior dining room, a dining room adjacent the bar, and two outside patio courtyard dining areas. 

They serve American cuisine pf Chef James Boyce’s menu of ‘southern classics with a modern twist’ - steaks and numerous seafood entrees. 

As usual, whenever it is available, I opted for the Flounder which was stuffed with crab and served with balsamic rice and haricot verts. 

Linda ordered the redfish served with cheese grits. 

Both entrees were delicious. For a wine pairing we ordered from the carefully prepared wine list a moderately priced French Chardonnay. Also available were some of our favorite standby selections, Jordan and Far Niente from Sonoma and Napa respectively 

Domaine Albert Bichot Verre Classe’ 2021

This is from Albert Bichot, prolific well known Burgundy producer whose family ancestors have been residing in Burgundy since the 14th century and producing wine since 1831. Six generations have continued the rich heritage and legacy of the brand led today by Albéric Bichot. 

From their property in Beaune, six estate vineyards covering 247 acres produce an extensive portfolio of classic Burgundian reds and whites. This label, named for the family’s Cote d’Or vineyards in the sub-region appellation Viré-Clessé.

While an entry level offering, this label is known for high QPR - Quality Price Ratio. 

One major retailer writes, “ Viré-Clessé is one of our essential white Burgundies—a bottle that provides quality and value like very few others in the world. Each offer leaves a froth of four- and five-star member-reviews in its wake, containing praise like “bargain of the century” and “one of the buys of the year for me.”’

The Viré-Clessé appellation, located between Tournus and Mâcon, is the most recent of the Mâconnais region’s village appellations (1999). The wines are exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes. The vineyards, for the most part, are planted on hillsides, where a local type of soil derived from white limestone called “cray” can be found. 

Inhabiting the best of the upper half of the Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé, created from the delineation of the two top Mâcon Villages, produces lively, charming and full-bodied whites. 

“Viré-Classé in notable, not just from the Mâconnais region but from the whole of Burgundy for wines with a mix of fine definition and brisk acidity while maintaining a signature rounded texture and sunshine-infused fruit. Inching towards Premier Cru quality, this is one of our favorite expressions of that distinctive southern identity.”

The village of Viré was first planted by the monks of Cluny in the 1500s, and its slopes are perfect for grapegrowing. Well-draining and strewn with chunks of white limestone, they looked much like the Premier Cru and Grand Cru holdings of Meursault and Montrachet.

The Viré-Clessé appellation, located between Tournus and Mâcon, is the most recent of the Mâconnais region’s village appellations (1999). The vineyards, for the most part, are planted on hillsides, where a local type of soil derived from white limestone called “cray” can be found. 

The wine is exclusively made from Chardonnay grapes.  

The 2021was a classic vintage with bottlings Wine Advocate acclaimed as “classically proportioned, pure and fine-boned”—that much more exciting. The growing season that year started off with widespread frost, slashing yields and distressing growers across Burgundy. But the summer was cool, allowing for a late harvest and citrusy, bright, minerally wines. 

Winemaker notes.- “Very sophisticated nose that combines notes of exotic and citrus fruits with subtle floral aromas (rose). On the palate, this wine presents balanced structure along with pleasing minerality. A touch of sucrosity on the finish gives length to the palate.”

“The aromatic intensity of Viré-Clessé with predominant aromas of fine, intense fruit, the nose reveals a touch of lemon, mango and subtle floral notes (rose). The palate boasts well-balanced structure and beautiful minerality, which gives way to a certain touch of sweetness on the finish, giving pleasing length”. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4624906

https://www.albert-bichot.com/

http://grilleonmainhsv.com/

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff

Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoff 

Linda prepared beef stroganoff with beef Bourgogne sauce and a tenderloin of beef. As is custom, I sought a Bordeaux varietal blend as a wine accompaniments with the beef. I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Bordeaux. 

This is the same vintage as another Bordeaux blend we drank just the other evening, then with grilled beefsteak. As with that other 2005 bottle, I wrote in a blogpost at that time, “ At twenty years of age, this is in its ‘Goldilock’s zone’, old enough to be fully integrated to reveal its complexity, to my preference, but still young enough to show the full expression of its fruits, which Linda likes. The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition. This is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and may age for another five or ten years before starting to diminish. 

This is what might be called the ‘second label’ of ‘Super Second’ Chateau Léoville Las Cases, considered one of the top producers in Bordeaux, arguably on par with the prestigious ‘First Growths’. 

Indeed, Las Cases, and our other favorite label, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, the other ‘super second’, abstain from participating in the UGCB, as they consider themselves worthy of the higher, highest classification. 

Producer Domaine de Léoville is one of the oldest estates in the Medoc dating back to the 17th Century. Historically owned by some of the wealthiest and most influential noble French families. The estate was split up between 1826 and 1840 as a result of the French Revolution as part of expropriation of emigrants’ property and subsequent egalitarian redistribution. 

Due to legacy birthright, the current Château Léoville Las Cases was created from 3/5 of the original estate including the heart of the domain. Pierre Jean, Adolphe and Gabriel de Las Cases were successive heirs to the property until 1900, when Théophile Skawinski purchased a share in the estate and became its manager, continuing control by the same family since the late 19th century to Today, represented by sole owner Jean-Hubert Delon. He also owns and is proprietor of Château Potensac in the Medoc and Château Nénin in Pomerol.

We were honored, and thrilled, to be hosted for private personal tours of the Château Léoville Las Cases estate (as well as Château Ducru Beaucaillou), during our trip to St Julien appellation in 2019, absolute highlight (s) of our trip to the region. 

Clos du Marquis St Julien Bordeaux 2005

This second labels provides more affordable wine from the legendary and illustrious estate for ‘once a week’ drinking, as compared to the ‘once a month’, less often special occasion, one a year drinking for the prestigious grand vin. 

The name is named for the Petit Clos adjacent to the Château de Léoville, residence of the Marquis de Las Cases. The wine was created at the beginning of the 20th century when the vineyard was planted. Since then, Clos du Marquis has become a historical brand of Domaines Delon, sourced from the separate vineyard adjacent to the grand vin Leoville Las Cases since being first released in 1902.

Leoville Las Cases vineyard adjacent Chateaux
Latour and Pichon Lalande, Baron, Poyferre.

The Clos du Marquis is produced from top terroirs of the Saint-Julien Appellation that were not exclusively part of the old Domaine de Léoville cadastre. These terroirs are located slightly to the west and are surrounded by prestigious Classified Growths, particularly Seconds Crus Classés of Saint-Julien and Pauillac: Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton, Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Pichon Longueville Baron. 

Notably, the Leoville Las Cases estate straddles the small creek that is the border between St Julien and Paulliac, and the legendary first growth Chateau Latour (shown above right). 

Clos du Marquis offers a representation of the finest Saint-Julien character for a fraction of the price of the higher classified growth labels showing structure, complexity, harmony, distinction and ageing potential.

Typical of the appellation, this release is a blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%, Merlot, 37%, Cabernet Franc, 12%, and Petit Verdot, 1%.

This release was rated 94/100 by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 by Wine Spectator, 92 by Decanter, and 91 by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

In 2024, Jeb Dunnuck wrote “It’s a beautiful, classic expression of the estate that will evolve for another two decades.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round, concentrated, structured but polished and balanced, blackberry and black currant and some red fruits with notes of tobacco, dark mocha, graphite. licorice with polished, integrated tannins on a long smooth finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224133

https://www.domaines-delon.com/en/clos_du_marquis-chateau_clos_du_marquis_vins.html 

Premium Napa Reds for Family Birthday Celebration

Premium Napa Reds for Family Birthday Celebration 

 Son Ryan and Michelle hosted the family for daughter/grand-daughter Mackenizie’s birthday. Ryan pulled from his cellar a flight of premium wines for the occasion.

Before dinner, they served a selection of artisan cheeses: Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, Italian triple milk soft cheese, and 1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.

Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue, La Tur Italian triple milk soft ripened cheese,  1yr aged El Trigo DOP Manchego Sheep’s Mile from Toledo, Spain.

Caseificio dell'Alta Langa, from the village of Bosia, in the heart of Alta Langa, a short distance from Alba, Barolo and Barbaresco. Family run since 1881, continuing the work of their grandparents passed down from generation to generation the ancient practice of local shepherds in the production of cheeses based on mixed or goat's milk. 

Ryan pulled from his cellar this wine flight - ‘08 Pierre Moncuit BtB Champaigne, 2012 Kapcsandy Yountville Cabernet, and 2013 Cliff Lede SLD Cabernet. I brought from our home cellar a 2003 vintage Integrity Shiraz by Marquis Philips. 

Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Champagne 2008

This is from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. The hamlet, one of the world’s best sites for Chardonnay with its ideal great terroir, old vines, and learned winemakers, is also home to other notable producers such as Krug, Salon, Pierre Péters and Selosse. 

The estate is run by the mother and daughter team Nicole and Valérie Moncuit. Except for a Rose’, all their labels they produce are single vintage, single estate sourced wines that represent the terroir of the village. The 2008 vintage was one of the best in this century.

The 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru was given extended time on the lees for more than ten years resulting in added complexity that developed in bottle and was disgorged in November 2020. 

It has all the racy, laser sharp acidity of the vintage, and the delicate richness we can attribute to élévage — the wine ferments in stainless steel, to preserve fruit purity, and is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, converting crisp, apple-y malic acid into rounder, softer lactic. There’s no oak aging, but this latest shipment of the wine spent nearly 15 years aging in the bottle, a time during which flavors meld and become something rich, toasty and deeply mineral.

Any sharp edges this wine may have had on release have softened and relaxed, leaving a complex wine with great depth. And while some 2008 vintage Champagnes (ahem, Krug, Cristal) are selling for hundreds of dollars, Moncuit’s is available for much less.

Reseller’s notes - Baked apple tart, spice, apricot, orange peel, spice, hazelnut and coffee are some of the many aromas and flavors that shape this wonderfully complex Champagne from Moncuit. 

Antonio Galloni of Vinous gave this 94 points.

“Moncuit's Extra Brut …shows a different facet of its personality in this version, with lower dosage vis-à-vis the Brut version. Here the flavors are brighter and more sculpted throughout. Hints of toastiness, almond and tangerine oil add an exotic flair that makes the Extra Brut absolutely beguiling. Lower dosage seems to exalt the minerality and bright acids of the year, while pushing the fruit a bit into the background. Both Brut and Extra Brut bottlings are terrific; choosing among them comes down to personal preference. 94 points” Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

Kapcsandy Estate Yountville State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Ryan served from his cellar, a large format magnum, this 100 point ‘perfect’ wine (Robert M. Parker, Jr.) is from Kapcsándy (pronounced "Cup-chon-dy") Family Vineyard in Yountville, central Napa Valley, a father-son team of Lou and Louis Kapcsándy. 

Lou Kapcsándy emigrated to the U.S. from Hungary in 1956 and had a successful career in chemical engineering and manufacturing in the San Francisco Bay Area, then in Seattle. 

In 1998, Lou and his wife, Bobbie visited Bordeaux and the centuries-old estate, Leoville-Las Cases where they were inspired to retire in California and create a wine-based business in partnership with their son, Louis, Jr. There vision and goal was to produce wines of “First Growth” quality that could rival any region or winery in the world.

After a three month search they discovered the 20-acre parcel in Yountville, one the original crown jewels of Beringer Estates Private Reserve Cabernet, and acquiring the property in May 2000. They set upon a rigorous plan to redevelop the property including replanting the vineyard.

In 2002, the Kapcsándys completely replanted the vineyard site to 15 specific blocks, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and constructed a state-of-the-art winery in September 2005.  

Son Louis, born in Marin County, California and raised in Seattle attended the University of Washington where he played varsity football and gained a degree in economics. After graduation, he worked in Los Angeles in feature-film post-production.

Louis Jr. began his wine career in 1999 when he co-founded Grand Cru Imports LLC with his father, specializing in Bordeaux Cru Classé and Petits Chateaux wines. He moved to Bordeaux to learn the intricacies of the Place de Bordeaux (a network of chateau owners, agents, and merchants) working for negociant firm Maison Joanne.

While at Maison Joanne, Louis visited more than 100 chateaux and learned fermentation methods, then apprenticed at Jean Luc & Murielle Thunevin of Ch. Valandraud (St. Emilion). During this time, he learned both classic and cutting-edge winemaking techniques from Alain Vauthier (Ch. Ausone) and Peter Sisseck (Pingus, Ribera del Duero).

Louis (Jr) returned in 2002 to co-found Kapcsándy Family Vineyard with his father. Today, he is intimately involved in all vineyard and winemaking decisions.

In the early days, and for this release, Denis Malbec was the consulting Winemaker for Kapcsandy Family Winery. Denis was born at Latour, where he learned winemaking and vineyard management early on with his father, Jean-Noel Malbec who worked at Château Latour from 1947 to 1994, and his grandfather, Camille Malbec who worked in the vineyard from the 1920s until the late 1970s.

Denis initially studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux and later in Reims, Champagne. He completed his studies with a “Tour de France” of the vineyards with work at Château Haut-Brion, Château Lagrange, the Pugnac Cooperative in Côte de Bourg, Léon Viollant, owner and wine merchant in Côte de Beaune, Duval Leroy, in the Côte des Blancs in Champagne and at Calvet, negociant in Bordeaux.

Denis started at Château Latour as one of the cellar workers in 1993 and took the position as enologist and winemaker at Château Latour in 1994 until 1999.

Denis and his wife moved to the United States in 2000, setting up base in St. Helena, working for such clients over the years as Charles Krug, Kapcsandy Wines, Respite Wines, Sodaro Estate and Medlock Ames. They also made Aliénor.

Denis worked with Kapcsandy Family from 2005 until he was tragically killed in a car accident in Yountville in 2016.

Today, winemaking duties are managed by the collaboration of consulting winemaker Tony Arcadia and Cellar Master David Sotelo. 

Tony left his well-established career in tech and engineering to follow his passion for wine after 20 years working as an engineer aboard Navy submarines and then IBM. 

He graduated from UC Davis’s oenological program and trained in France at Rhône-based Maison M. Chapoutier. Returning to the Napa Valley, he served as assistant winemaker at Nickel & Nickel in Oakville. 

In 2009, Tony joined up with renowned winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett collaborating making wine together.

Tony’s addition to the winemaking team followed a career path parallel to Kapcsándys, from engineering background and training in France to pursue desire to cultivate vineyard-designated wines.

David Sotelo began his career in the wine industry Napa Wine Company, where he worked for 11 years before joining the Kapcsándy Family Winery team. He fondly recalls his first harvest at Kapcsándy in 2005 and the excitement of their first 100-point score from Robert Parker, Jr. for the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon-Grand Vin.

This 2012 Grand Vin Kapcsàndy release is a single vineyard designated label sourced, 100% from the State Lane Vineyard in Yountville, composed of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot. The wine was aged for 20 months in new French oak barrels.

This release was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 99 points by Int'l Wine Review, 98 by Vinous, and 97 by Antonio Galloni.

All the pundits are consistent that this wine should last several more decades at the apex of its drinking profile. 

If you’ve been fortunate to taste a 100 point ‘perfect’ wine, you might be in for a surprise … they’re not a blockbuster that knocks you over with big forward fruits, or some other highlight, rather, they’re remarkable for their lack of excessive notes, and are flawless, and seamless in their polished harmonic integration.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich, plush polished, a symphony of ripe black currant and raspberry fruits with floral violet, cinnamon spice, graphite and hints of black olive and cedar notes on a smooth silky tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2061913

https://www.kapcsandywines.com/

https://x.com/Kapcsandy

Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

This is the standard Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from the hillside terraces of the Poetry Vineyard down the road and across the Silverado Trail from the winery, from the Twin Peaks Vineyard estate surrounding the winery, and a few neighboring vineyards in the Stags Leap District.

Notably, this is just across and down the road from Kapcsàndy Family Winery and vineyards of the label above. 

One of our favorites and mainstays of both Ryan's and my cellars, the Cliff Lede Stags Leap property is just down and across the road from Kapcsàndy property geographically. We’ve visited the estate several times during our Napa Valley visits and held several private tastings/tours there. 

This is a consistent crowd pleaser from vintage to vintage. We hold about a half dozen vintages of this label and they seem to hit their stride and be in their peak after a decade of cellaring. 

The wine is composed of small lots from Lede estate vineyard best blocks, representing a diverse range of carefully selected clones and rootstocks. From Poetry’s exposed, rocky terraces that are volcanic in origin, to the ancient riverbed alluvial soils of Twin Peaks, the breadth of contributing sites translates into a wine of impressive complexity.

Robert Parker gave this release 93 points. 

Producers’ Production Notes - “Hand harvested throughout the night, the fruit was immediately subjected to rigorous selection by our three-tiered sorting process, including our cutting edge optical sorter, with a goal of retaining only perfect berries. The selected fruit was gently delivered to specially-designed truncated tanks via gravity by our crane system, minimizing disruption of berry integrity. Cold soaks lasted approximately five days, and fermentations were managed by a combination of délestage and pumpovers. Extended maceration ranging from four to five weeks fine-tuned tannin profiles, allowing us to build mouth feel and wine complexity. The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new, for twenty-one months.”

Winemaker Notes - “Inky purple with blood-red tinged edges, the elegant and seamless 2013 Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon's multilayered perfume fills the glass with notes of violets, lavender, and spring flowers. Intertwined with the floral notes are heady layers of plum, blackberry, and red currents. Silky, unctuous flavors of smoked cardamom, cinnamon, and black licorice lay out on the palate and finish with the taste and texture of liquefied rocks.”

Dark garnet and dense purple in color, full bodied, bright vibrant black berry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, hints of cinnamon spice and oak with firm but smooth tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 91 points. This got 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Vinous

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2394746

http://www.cliffledevineyards.com/

I brought from our home cellar this limited release premium label from Marquis Philips, predecessor to the widely popular Mollydooker brand. 

Marquis Philips Integrity Shiraz 2003 

We loved the Marquis Philips portfolio of wines and wrote about them extensively in these pages, and of course, today they’re the widely popular Mollydooker brand.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/02/mollydooker-scooter-merlot.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/12/blue-eyed-boy-mclaren-vale-shiraz-2020.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/02/mollydooker-carnival-of-love-shiraz-2011.html

Marquis Philips was formed as a collaboration between the U.S. importer Dan Philips and Sparky and Sarah Marquis, highly-regarded Australian winemakers who brought Fox Creek to cult fame. They had a falling out between the founders in late 2005 and the Marquis started their own label, Mollydooker. (Marquis Philips wines made since about 2005 were overseen by Chris Ringland, another legendary Australian winemaker.)

While Marquis Philips wines were known for their eye-catching, often provocative labels such as the ‘roogle’, a cross between an eagle and kangaroo - representing the Aussie, American partnership. Mollydooker went on to create their own portfolio is whimsical eye-catching labels. 

Robert Parker wrote - Perhaps another way to think of these wines is that they are XXX-rated stuff. They’re not exactly wines for those wanting finesse, lightness, restraint, or intellectual challenge. These are totally decadent homages to joy and yumminess. Or. As a friend of mine said, they are ‘fragrantly delicious.'"

Because of Marquis Philips’ tumultuous history, the affordable wines are highly sought-after and difficult to obtain in the current market. We acquired a couple vintages of this, their ultra-premium flagship label at auction. This was our last bottle, I was saving for a special occasion.

Of course, the saga continues and becomes more interesting. The turmoil in the house of Philips continued as Sarah and Sparky then had a falling out of their own, and winemaker Sarah bought out Sparky. Sparky it turns out was a friend of my Australian employee representative when I was still running a software company! I had plans to visit Aussie wine country and meet Sparky, then Covid, and I never made the trip. 

Marquis Philips "Integrity" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia 2003 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/02/mollydooker-scooter-merlot.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/12/blue-eyed-boy-mclaren-vale-shiraz-2020.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/02/mollydooker-carnival-of-love-shiraz-2011.html

Notably, we drank an earlier vintage release of this label at another special occasion - taking it to a highly acclaimed restaurant BYOB for our anniversary celebration dinner five years ago - as covered in this blogpost - Goosefoot Chicago Anniversary Celebration Dinner, excerpted below.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/goosefoot-chicago-anniversary.html

Marquis Philips 'Integrity' Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2001

This is the premium release from Marquis Philips, precursor to Mollydooker. and their Velvet Glove premium label. We acquired this at auction a decade ago ... packaged in special gift box - awaiting a suitable occasion for gifting or serving ... OTBN - Open That Bottle toNight! 

This (2001) got over-the-top 99 and 97 point ratings from Parker who called it 'virtually perfect'. 

Back in the day, winemaker and producers Sarah and Sparky Marquis considered this the finest they had ever produced. 

We hold a couple dozen bottles of their wines dating back two decades. 

Ironically, we hosted Aussie colleague Peter F this weekend in Chicago and it turns out he is a personal friend of Sparky back in Adelaide South Central Australia! 

That Integrity packed a walloping 16.2% alcohol but didn't come across as the least bit overpowering. Parker cited the anticipated maturity out to 2020 so it was supposedly still at but nearing the end of its apex. 

Similar to and consistent with that earlier release … 

Inky dark garnet purple color, full bodied, big rich concentrated and multi-dimensional, but not as big, forward or unctuously rich as some that we have had, the fruit was also a bit more subdued than expected, black berry fruits accented by white floral, cassis, leather, tobacco, tea and hints of vanilla with fine smooth silky tannins on a long finish. Perhaps the fruit has subsided over the almost two decades. 

At the time I gave the 2001 RM 93 points, tonight I give the 2003 92 points. 

The 2001 release … https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=738 

Ths 2003 release … https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=70707

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

https://twitter.com/MollydookerWine

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Robert Parker writings about Marquis Philips …

“Marquis Philips is the most exciting wine project to emerge from Australia, and perhaps the New World, in the last year. Run, don't walk to a client of The Grateful Palate and secure as much as you can of these wines. This must be the most exciting development that has occurred in the Southern Hemisphere over the last several years. Marquis Philips is a partnership between highly talented winemakers Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their American importer, Dan Philips (of The Grateful Palate). I favorably reviewed the stunning debut values of the Marquis Philips range in the 2000 vintage. Remarkably, the 2001s are even more amazing, and probably for the price, the greatest red wine values in existence ... anywhere! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #143 (Oct 2002”

Robert Parker 93 - “The flagship offering, the 2003 Shiraz Integrity, is a slightly down-sized version of the massive 2002 and 2001. Nevertheless, it is an amazing, modern-styled wine. It boasts a dense purple color, a big, sweet nose of chocolate, espresso roast, blackberries, creme de cassis, Asian spices, and new saddle leather, full body, an opulent texture, and tremendous length. Drink this seductive, rich Shiraz over the next decade.”

“The highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, in partnership with their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate, successfully launched the inexpensive line of Marquis Philips wines several years ago, creating something of a monster because of their enormous crowd appeal. While 2003 is a lighter vintage than its predecessors, these offerings have turned out nicely. The handful of consumers who deemed 2002 too concentrated for such inexpensive wines will be delighted to learn that the 2003s are slightly lighter, but still loaded with character as well as flavor. They possess heavy duty, exuberant fruit, ripeness, and considerable personality.”
94 - Wine AdvocateReview Date: 02/2013

Sepia Curated Wine Pairing Dinner

Sepia Curated Wine Pairing Dinner 

Celebrating a recent real estate transaction, we dined with our broker/advisor/agents at Michelin Star Sepia Restaurant in the trendy West (of) Loop district of Chicago. 

We dined there last summer for a spectacular wine and dinner experience that was featured in these pages in this blogpost - Sepia Michelin Star Restaurant Chicago. 

Despite their Wine Spectator Best Award wine list, we opted for the wine pairing with the price fixe dinner in which the chef and wine director pair a wine with each dinner course. This allows one to not only taste numerous wines with dinner, but also to experience both the Chef’s, and Wine Director Somellier’s interpretation of the applicable wine pairings with each food course of the dinner. 

The Sepia Wine List is extraordinarily broad, 36 pages in all, with diverse range of selections from the usual old world and new world regions as well as selections from lesser producers such as Austria, Croatia, Lebanon, Greece, Armenia, Mexico and Morocco. 

As a refresher we had Champagne as a starter wine - 

Telmont Reserve Brut 2020

This is a blend of 35%, Chardonnay, 36% Muniere and 26% Pinot Noir.

From the first course, we selected from the price fixe menu each of the offerings available: 

• Smoked beef carpaccio, sweet mustard, sourdough, and onion consomme’,
• leek & popcorn veloute, délice de bourgogne, black truffle, brioche, and the 
• hiramasa crudo, blood orange ponzu, cumquat, cilantro,
• king crab & sea urchin, koshihikari, gochujang consommé, sesame.

leek & popcorn veloute, délice de bourgogne, black truffle, brioche

hiramasa crudo, apple-yuzu ponzu, lime leaf, fingerlime - this was delicious, especially the caviar highlight …

king crab & sea urchin, koshihikari, gochujang consommé, sesame

Smoked beef carpaccio, sweet mustard, sourdough, and onion consomme’

The first course dishes were paired two different sweet dessert aperitifs - Roûmieu-Lacoste Sauternes and Travignoli Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina, and Fabbricca Newton Rosso Toscana

Château Roûmieu-Lacoste Sauternes Haut Barzac 2022

A classic Sauternes that has been in the same family for six generations on the mother’s side of producer Hervé Dubourdieu dating back to 1890. He who also owns highly acclaimed and well known Château Graville-Lacoste and Château Ducasse. 

Roûmieu-Lacoste is in the climat of Haut Barsac, an area famous robust, powerfully styled moelleux with pronounced acidity. The vineyards are just across the road from First Growth Château Climens on a similar soil: calcareous clay on fissured rock, peppered with red iron, white limestone, and grey flint gravel. 

Hervé produces a portfolio of red and white wines with the whites being blends a high proportion of Sémillon (60%) and a splash of Muscadelle (5%) with Sauvignon Blanc (35%), creating a rich, full, aromatic mid-palate to complement the clean finish. 

Known for his charm and modest disposition, complemented by his focus and ferocious perfectionism, he is dedicated to his vineyards in the Sauternes and Graves appellations. 

A meticulous perfectionist, Hervé employs the best harvesters available, paying them double the average wage to discern between the “noble rot,” necessary to concentrate the sugars for Sauternes, and deleterious rot. Hervé is so fastidious that he will get rid of a whole basket of fruit if a single grape with the harmful rot makes it in with healthy ones to be absolutely sure to avoid even the slightest contamination. 

He sells his wines through renowned distributor Kermit Lynch,  selling them the lion’s share of his production so he can focus on the vineyards, thereby producing highest quality wine at an uncharacteristic low price.

Golden amber colored, full bodied, deeply complex, thick unctuous decadent sweetness of honey, apricot, passion fruit and lemon zest with silky smooth texture and a long and lingering finish with refreshing acidity.

RM 92 points. 

https://vignobles-hervedubourdieu.com/

The other first course wines ….

Travignoli Vin Santo del Chianti Rùfina 2015

This is another dessert wine from Villa Travignoli which is situated in the northeastern part of the Chianti region, 25 kilometers east of Florence at the meeting of the Arno and Sieve rivers. 

Travignoli, a name which means “Tra Vignoli” (between the vineyards) is located in the middle of Frescobaldi’s Nipozzano Vineyard, in the Chianti Rufina region, The site has a southern exposure, calcareous soils and an altitude ranging from 250 to 400 meters above sea level. 

Wine production at Travignoli dates all the way back to 500 BC by the Etruscans who referred to the area wines as the “Nectar of the Gods.”

The estate was acquired by Count Busi and his family in the 1800’s. They cultivate 70 hectares of the 90-hectare estate, primarily focusing on Sangiovese but also including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. The family sold almost all of its production to private clients in demijohns until Giovanni Busi graduated from the oenology school of Conegliano in 1979. With the expert consultation of Giacomo Tachis, one of the most respected enologists in Italy, Giovanni began bottling the wine under the estate branding of Villa Travignoli.

This is sourced from the the hills of Pelago in the Chianti Rufina D.O.C.G. area in the Arno valley east of Florence. The south facing hilly terrain sits at 250 to 350 m above sea level and has a soil composition of marly, calcareous clay.

This vintage release of this dessert wines is a blend of Malvasia (70%) and Trebbiano (30%). Vinification process leaves the grapes to dry naturally after harvest on wattle shelves for four to five months before being pressed and then fermented in wooden kegs. They are then matured five years in barriques and then in bottles. 

Only 2000 bottles made. 

The producer cites an ageing potential for this wine at 30/40 years.

Travignoli Rufina shows a subtle fruitiness against a strong tannin-acid backbone even when fairly young. Travignoli Riservas do not lack any of the structure or power one would expect, but they also express a pleasant honesty of fruit.

Golden amber colour, full bodied, thick and unctuous apricot fruit with nones of raisins, honey, caramel and walnuts with smooth acidity on a long finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5319245

https://www.travignoli.com/

Fabbrica Newton Rosso Toscana IGT 2020

The smoked beef carpaccio was paired with this red Rosso Toscana (Tuscany) from Siena in Tuscany which is known for its Sangiovese varietal wines. Fabbrica has been producing a broad portfolio of wines since it was founded in 2013, a relative newcomer in for an ‘old world’ producer.

This is 100% Sangiovese sourced from estate vineyards in the Pienza, Val d’Orcia in eastern Tuscany where the soils and climates are more aligned with that of the Rhone Valley. The hilly part of the village of Pienza recalls those of the southern Rhone while the soils there are a reminder of the northern Rhone. 

This Fabbrica label is pressed and foot crushed, wild yeast fermentation, whole-cluster, long maceration in concrete tanks, then aged 15 months in concrete. Concrete is the special ingredient, with its somewhat porous nature that allows breathing of the wine without imparting notes from typical wood barrels. 

Ruby colored, medium bodied, round full fruit forward blackberry, raspberry and cranberry fruits with notes of dried figs, vanilla, allspice, caramel, floral, butterscotch, hints of spearmint and pine. 

RM 88 points. 

For the second course we elected these entree selections: 

• bbq’d sablefish, cabbage, carolina bb’q, smoked apple cider butter, and the 
• crispy creamcheese gnudi, celery root, belper knolle, salted black pepper
• grilled lobster chawanmushi, potato fennel, boullibase  

bbq’d sablefish, cabbage, carolina bb’q, smoked apple cider butter

This was delicious, especially when the sumptuous sauce was added …

 

crispy creamcheese gnudi, celery root, belper knolle, salted black pepper

grilled lobster chawanmushi, potato fennel, boullibase

The wine accompaniments for this course were …

Malat "Hohlgraben" Palt Kremstal Grüner Veltliner 2021

The bbq’d sablefish was delicious, exceeding my expectations and was nicely accompanied by this straightforward white wine. 

This is from the estate of Gerald Malat located near Krems, in Palt, between the southern bank of the Danube and the Gottweiger Mountain. It is in the Kremstal wine growing appellation (DAC), one of the most recent DAC’s to be added in Austria. 

Founded in 2007, just east of the Wachau, the appellation is divided into three significant zones. The most western part of the valley, near Stein, is primarily rocky soils, ideal for the elegant, yet intense, Riesling varietal. 

Moving east towards the historic town of Krems, deep loess soils cover the vineyards yielding Grüner Veltliner that is expressive, highly aromatic and fresh. 

The third zone, the source of this label, Kremstal. Is located on the southern banks of the Danube River, where some of the most pleasant wine villages are found. The deep valley is protected by the northern cool winds, though the warm Pannonian winds from the east still persist, resulting in a riper style wine.

The estate is comprised of seven different vineyards, each slightly distinct and different from the others. The Hohlgraben vineyard lies at the foot of the Gottweiger Stiftsberg and is the Malat estate's most historic and probably also most important Veltliner plantation. The soil is all classic loess with south to south west exposure.

Importer’s Notes - “This wine shows extraordinarily vibrant and beautifully sculpted expression of GV - snap-pea and other kitchen-garden aromas, lovely pear and peach notes, acids nicely focused and interwoven; charming minerality and excellent balance."

Straw colored, medium bodied, crisp, modest fruits of pear and hints of peach with mineral and acid notes on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4413626

https://www.malat.at/wp/

Linda’s crèamcheese gnudi was accompanied by this crisp Sauvignon Blanc. 

Arnaud & Albéric Lechat Les Silex Sauvignon Blanc 2021

For the lobster dish, this Sauvignon Blanc is from the Loire River Valley that runs west for 170 miles from the historic city of Orléans towards the Atlantic Ocean, and is one of France’s most diverse wine regions, and one of the most historic with grand riverside châteaux once inhabited by kings and nobles.

The climate in the Touraine sub-region is moderated by the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire.

For four generations, the Domaine de Beauséjour estate was run by the Trotignon family, who made it into one of the most respected names in the Touraine appellation. The Lechat brothers, Arnaud and Albéric Lechat took over in 2022 with plans to build on this foundation. 

The Les Silex estate consists of nearly fifty acres of which 40 are planted with Sauvignon Blanc – the region’s most popular white grape.

This was straw colored, light medium bodied with subdued crisp gooseberry, stone, and grapefruit citrus fruits with notes of mineral on the finish.

RM 89 points. 

For the third course we selected the Crispy skin black bass and the Rohan duck breast entrees.

Crispy skin black bass, escarole, calabrian chile, herbed pil pil

This black bass course turned out to be a disappointment with the sea foam coming across way too fishy for enjoyment. The wine accompaniment for this dish was this interesting Friulano Bianca.

Mitja Sirk Bianco Europea Friulano IGT 2022 

This unique white wine if crafted from the Tocai Friulano grape from the Venezia Giulia Appellation in the Friuli Region from the town of Cormons in Collio, Italy, in the extreme northeastern most corner of Italy, just a mile from the Slovenian border. 

The major city or town of Friuli Venezia Giulia is the regional capital of Trieste. Until recently, Friuli Venezia Giulia was divided into four provinces, each named after its principal city, however, in 2018 the system changed whereby the provinces were replaced by a series of territories known as UTIs.The largest cities are the three former provincial capitals of Udine, Gorizia and Pordenone, along with the town of Monfalcone. 

The horseshoe-shaped region of eastern Friuli is referred to simply as Collio (“hills”), lying midway between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The climate is classic Mediterranean, warm in summer, but, as a classic Alpine area, cold and wet in winter, which are ideal conditions for the thin-skinned but early-ripening Friulano grape. WWII took a heavy toll on Collio. In the postwar period, Friuli rebuilt its economy based largely on wine, but it did not emerge as a source of notable wines until the late 1960s. 

The Sirk family, Josko and Loredana, and their grown children, are originally from Slovenia, but have been at home over the Italian border in Cormons for more than half a century. Josko ran the estate until the 1974 vintage, then moved his attention from farming to the [now Michelin-starred] restaurant and the [now world-renowned] hotel, La Subida, and became a legend in Friulian hospitality. 

For the following 30 years, the vineyards that we own were worked by Sirk family cousins. In 2003, the next generation Sirk family took them back for vinegar and wine production. Son Mitja restarted the wine production in 2016, as a project based on working exclusively with friulano, the typical variety of the region.

Mitja Sirk is the winemaker for this label that bears his name. Mitja wanted to be a winemaker from the age of 11. A local winegrower Josko Gravner took him under his arm and mentored his winemaking ambition. He started by giving him one of his clay amphorae wine producing vessels, bought some grapes and produced his first wine. 

Mitja went on to study at the local viticulture and enology in high school, then traveled throughout Europe learning directly from winemakers he admired and tasting regularly with his best friend Kristian Keber, producer Edi Keber’s son. He worked at producer Isole e Olena in 2011, Dujac in 2013, Conterno in 2014, and Roulot in 2018, each contributing to his learning, experience and confidence. 

Mitja focused on the Fruilano grape, the traditional and most widely planted in Collio, prized for its aromatic delicacy pronounced mineral, floral, and sweet almond notes, with a distinctive note of bitterness at the finish.

This wine is sourced from seven select vineyards in Collio and Colli Orientali grown at 70 to 150 meters above sea level. The vines are 20-70 years in age, grown orgaincally on the stony “ponca” soils of compacted sandstone and marl. The wine’s alcoholic fermentation and elevage occurs primarily in steel tanks, with 10% done in neutral barrel. The wine was aged approx 6 months with virtually no battonage in this vintage, due to the incredibly long, slow fermentation. The wine was bottled after a very light filtration 

The result is an easy drinking wine with strong aromatic character and a sharp and clean ending. 

Mitja makes both some single-vineyard bottlings and also a “Bianco di Mitja” which is sourced from the area’s most notable sites. He’s working with vineyards on both sides of the Slovenian border, hence the Bianco is now bottled as a “Vino Bianco Europeo.” The Brda in Slovenia and Collio in Friuli are geologically the same region, and share a climate.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, soft crisp notes of honeysuckle, melon, lime peel, and crushed flowers with a stony yet refreshing acidity on the pleasant finish. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4765857

On the promotion of our server, all three gentlemen ordered the duck breast, which was delicious, as good as I remember having before in any other restaurant.

Rohan duck breast, malted sunchoke, huckleberry & duck confit pithivier

The Rohan duck breast was paired with this interested Spanish  red wine. 

Navaherreros Garnacha Tinta de Bernabeleva 2022 

Readers of these pages know I often order duck when dining out, and take BYOB or select a Rhône varietal wine for such occasions. With the duck course I predicted such and we were served this Spanish Garnacha, which is essentially Grenache, the popular grape from the southern Rhône River Valley. 

Garnacha's actual birthplace is Spain however,  it is more recognized as Grenache, the ‘G” in GSM, the popular Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, produced in the red blends of the Southern Rhône, most notably Châteauneuf-du-Pape (which by AOC rules must contain 70% of the three grapes), as well as Côtes du Rhône and its villages. It is also popular in California, primarily in the Central Coastal region of Paso Robles, Washington and Australia.

This is the entry-level red of Spanish producer Navaherreros from just north of La Mancha, Spain’s (and actually Europe’s) largest classified wine region, Vinos de Madrid DO. The large region is comprised of four subregions that start about 9 miles from the city center. Three of the subregions form a semicircle around the southern suburbs, Arganda, Navalcarnero, San Martín, and El Molar, situated directly north of the city, the newly created 4th subregion. Vinos de Madrid was granted DO status in 1990.

While Tempranillo is the most planted grape variety in the Arganda subregion in the southeast, Garnacha is the dominant grape in all other subregions, including El Molar in the north, Navalcarnero in the south, and especially San Martín de Valdeiglesias in the west.

Grenache thrives in the warm, Mediterranean climate where ample sunlight allows its clusters to achieve full ripeness. 

This was rated 92 points by The Wine Advocate.

Opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, wild black berry fruits with earthy, meaty notes, hints of iron and graphite with dusty tannins and a dry finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4825138 

http://www.bernabeleva.com/

For the dessert course we selected:

bay leaf crème brûlée, olive oil, satsuma mandarin, roasted vanilla

hibiscus pavlova, ginger, toasted coconut, chamoy

white sesame mont blanc, miso butterscotch, salted maple, caramelized banana. shown below.

The culinary team at Sepia consists of:

executive chef andrew zimmerman
chef de cuisine kyle cottle sous chefs brian daley & jayme cannava
pastry chef erin kobler, and, pastry sous chef melissa santiago

Our server and Jake Bennie, new wine director

https://www.sepiachicago.com/

https://x.com/SepiaChicago