Tuesday, February 18, 2025

Stevens Winery “Black Tongue” Yakima Valley Syrah With BBQ

BBQ Rib sandwiches with Stevens Winery “Black Tongue” Yakima Valley Syrah

Linda prepared delicious BBQ Rib Sandwiches from the leftover Ribs from the other evening. I trolled the cellar and found this aged vintage Syrah from Yakima Valley (Washington). I have to admit, I don’t recall ever seeing this label before and had no idea where I had see it or obtained it. Thankfully, I keep good records using the CellarTracker Cellar Management app. I bought this at Total Wine two years ago, so, it was eight years old at the time of purchase. Regrettably, I didn’t detail which Total Wine store and it could’ve been Indy or Pensacola, for the time obtained. I suspect Indy, since I’m certain I didn’t ship or carry it from Florida. 

In any event, this was an ideal pairing with our BBQ. 

Stevens Winery “Black Tongue” Yakima Valley Syrah 2015

This is produced by Stevens Winery, founded in 2002 by Tim and Paige Stevens, located in the Warehouse District of Woodinville, Washington, which we actually know of, having visited Woodinville doing cellar/tasing room tour back in 2018 - featured in this blogpost - Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tasting in Woodinville.
Stevens strive to “produce wines that show a distinctive character, specifically focused on the Yakima Valley”. They attribute much of their success to their growing partners at Dineen, DuBrul, Klipsun, Meek and Sheridan Vineyards.

It sounds like they are classic ‘garagists’, winemakers acquiring grapes and producing wines out of a garage, or as they say, in a warehouse. 

According to their website, “Today”, they produces six reds and two white wines. Starting with only 100 cases of Cabernet Franc produced in their first year, they now are in their tenth year “pushing close to 2900 cases”, which they continue to grow each year. 

It appears this may have been their last release, Their website talks about being their tenth release, having started in 2002, would put them at 2012. Their website lists six different labels from the 2012 vintage as the most current release. It also lists thirty different labels going back ten years.  

I find no records of any other labels after 2012 other than this one, in 2015 and a mention of 2016. 

Total Wine lists it as a Winery Direct product, sourced directly from the producer. They show it being in stock only in the Indy store. 

Winemaker’s notes for this wine - Yakima, WA - This medium-bodied wine starts with flavors of blackberry, raspberry and cherry mixed with plum, chocolate and caramel followed by mineral, earthy notes for a smooth finish..

Wine Enthusiast gave it 88 points and called it “Not fully resolved orange-peel, bacon-fat, mineral and herb aromas lead to quite elegantly styled fruit flavors.” They go on to say,  “There are some interesting things going on but they don't all come together.”

The only CellarTracker tasting note of the label was from 2018 and was tasted at the winery. The writer, TJRoss notes he was ”shocked at how different it was from previous vintages. Instead of the big fruit forward profile of the past, the 2015 is earthy, bacon-fat, briny...a bit of funk on the nose.” 

Our experience was consistent with his … a bit funky with the tasting profile ‘earthy, bacon-fat, briny...’
Dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, the dark berry fruits were overtaken by a layer of camphor, almost akin to aromas of whisky, albeit not nearly as strong. TJR called it ‘unsettled’ which is not off the mark. 

TJRoss gave it 91 points. I would give it the same as Wine Enthusisat, 88 points. 
  

Saturday, February 15, 2025

Lunch/Dinner Redux at Entourage DG

Lunch/Dinner Redux at Entourage DG

For the second week in a row, for Saturday lunch, we dined at Entourage Entourage DG (Downers Grove) Downers Grove. This week we asked to order from the dinner menu and they were happy to oblige. We both ordered our favorite entrees, a replay of our recent Entourage dinner selections as featured in these pages in an earlier blogpost, excerpted below. 

Using their call ahead ‘priority’ seating option, we were promptly seated by GM Catherine. 

As I mentioned in our visit post last weekend, we were able to get our favorite table/booth due to the lighter crowd mid-afternoon, for our late lunch, early dinner. 

From Saturday, February 1, 2025

Kokomo Chardonnay at Entourage DG

Replaying our recent dinner, we both ordered our favorite dining options, notably the Chilean Seabass, Truffle Risotto and the newly crafted sauce, and the Lobster Shrimp Rigatoni.

As noted in earlier posting, the Signature Miso Marinated Chilean Seabass with Broccolini, Charred Peppers, Shiitake Mushrooms and Black Truffle Risotto, Yuzu and the new offering approach, Lemon Butter Sauce has become one of my absolute favorites, shown here in a contemporaneous updated photo. 

I wrote last month in Spectacular dining experience at Entourage Restaurant Downers Grovethat this was extraordinary, delicious in all respects, the fish artfully prepared and served hot, and the Black Truffle Risoto was spectacular. I love it all, the harmony and synthesis of the many artfully crafted robust flavors. 

As with the earlier visit. Linda ordered the Lobster and Shrimp Rigatoni with Tomato, Spinach, Charred Jalapeño and  Lemon in White Wine Parmesan Cream Sauce with Roasted Garlic Toast, also shown in a contemporaneous updated photo. . 


Today, as with out last visit, we reordered from the limited Chardonnay selections, a bottle of the Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay. Today, we were served the newer 2023 vintage release (versus the 2022 earlier). (We continue our regretably unfortunate protest against Plumpjack Chardonnay due their dubious associations and outlandish politics - Plumpjack Reserve Napa Chardonnay at Entourage Restaurant Naperville).

As we wrote earlier … 

Family owned and operated Kokomo Winery was started by Owner and Winemaker Erik Miller in 2004, a fellow Hoosier who named it after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana, which is near Linda’s hometown and family farm in North Central Carroll County, Indiana. (Funny, they showcase their “Boilermaker” collection of wines, honoring the Purdue Boilermakers’, mascot of the Big Ten University not far from Linda’s family homestead, arch rival to our beloved Indiana University “Hoosiers”, but the one she grew up supporting.) 

The Winery sits on the East side of Dry Creek Valley, twenty miles north of Santa Rosa, off the main route 101, midway between the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville. The winery and tasting room is located at Timber Crest Farms, sitting amid 120 acres of vineyards, overlooking the valley.

Kokomo produces over a dozen different varietal wines and several single vineyard designated labels which are farmed by his partner in the winery, grower Randy Peters. Kokomo Wines strive to showcase the terroir of the their vineyard sources in the three distinctive appellations of Sonoma County - Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. They also offer some wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain District. 

This Peter’s Vineyard Designated label is 100% Chardonnay sourced from a site in the Russian River Valley, west Sebastopol, next to Luther Burbank's Farm where the soil is rich with Goldridge sandy loam. There the vines are exposed to consistent coastal fog, which calls for extended hang time and more development for the fruit. 

I was a bit hesitant to order this bottle, especially to be paired with such a magnificent dinner, since our awareness of Kokomo is more modest entry level wines, less discriminating than the premium and ultra-premium labels we tend to enjoy. 

We see their entry level labels widely distributed but have never had any of their more premium labels. Note they show two dozen different offerings on their website. Never-the-less I gave it a shot and found it to be an over-achiever to my perception of the brand, meeting our hopeful expectations for suitably pairing with our dinner. 

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2023

Winemaker notes for this release - “Planted in West Sebastopol, this is a premier location for Chardonnay. The vineyard is next to Luther Burbank’s Farm and the soil composition is rich Goldridge Sandy Loam. With the consistent coastal fog extending hang time well into October, this fruit is fully developed and loaded with complexity. The Chardonnay is comprised of Clones 4 and 76.’

Continuing, Winemaker notes for this release remain the same as with the previous vintage: “Reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy but with a California twist, this Chardonnay displays vibrant minerality accompanied by the mouth-watering natural acidity typically found in Peters Vineyard. Stirring the lees (Sur Lie) was performed to this lot consistently once per week through malolactic fermentation. We feel like this gives the wine body, texture and depth while maintaining its graceful acidity and restraint. This Chardonnay is elegant enough to pair with delicate foods and delicious enough to drink by itself after a long day.”

This is 100% Chardonnay, Sourced from Russian River Valley 
Appellation, and was aged 11 months in 100% French Oak, 30% New..

While I gave it the same rating, this release had a slightly different profile.

Straw colored, light to medium bodied, tangy crisp acidity highlights a predominant layer of vanilla that overshadowed the subtle pear, spice and peach tones of the earlier release, accented by light sprites of oak on a pleasurable moderate finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5165863

https://www.kokomowines.com/store/?view=product&slug=23ch

https://www.kokomowines.com/

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Thursday, February 13, 2025

Venge Scout’s Honor Red Blend 2015 with BBQ Ribs

Venge Scout’s Honor Red Blend 2015 with BBQ Ribs

Linda prepared BBQ ribs with roasted potatoes so I pulled from the cellar a Big Red suitable for the occasion.

I’ve written about this producer and this label in detail in many earlier blogposts over the years. Tonight’s tasting was consistent with an earlier one of this, hence I excerpt it here.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/03/venge-vineyard-scouts-honor-napa-red.html

From Monday, March 29, 2021

Venge Vineyard "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 2015

This is a wine we have fun with, one of our "V" wines, those featuring the letter 'V' on their labels or in their branding, as a tribute to our daughter-in-law Viviana, that we have fun with in our collecting and serving.

As I have written often in these pages, we've been enjoying Nils and Kirk Venge' wines since the early 1990's when Nils was featured by Wine Spectator Magazine in a 1994 article on up and coming wine producers.

One of the labels of the Venge portfolio is Scout's Honor, named for the family Labrador Retriever. I remember Scout walking the rows in the vineyards with Nils during a visit to the Rutherford Penny Lane estate back in the nineties (shown right from our 2002 visit).

This wine was initially meant to be a fun sipper for the Venge tasting room, yet it became — and remains — one of the most popular wines of the Venge portfolio which has now grown to nineteen labels.

Scout's Honor is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, delicious and enjoyable red wine that can be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release however when cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years.

Scout's Honor starts as a unique proprietary red blend anchored by a base of old-vine Zinfandel and builds upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain vineyard Syrah.

The blend for 2015 70% Zinfandel, 14% Charbono, 9% Petite Sirah and 7% Syrah.

We have been collecting this label since the earliest releases in the mid-nineties and hold more than a half dozen vintages. We typically keep a half dozen vintages of this label on hand for easy, enjoyable smooth sipping with everyday fare, great with BBQ, burgers, pizza to hearty cheese, beef, fruits and chocolates.

Nil's has stepped down into retirement and winemaker and production duties are now with son Kirk who has raised the bar taking this label to new heights in recent years, earning 93 or 94 points from Wine Advocate for vintages 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016. 

Wine buddy Andy and I visited Kirk and Nils up at the Calistoga estate and the Signal Fire Vineyard back in 2002 (shown right).

From a branding perspective, this may be the last year you see this packaging with a paper label as the 2018 release went to a more upscale painted on glass bottle label marking, moving to a more premium positioning for this label. It remains to be seen what happens to the price point. It is already priced at the high end of the Zinfandel range, but well worth it with its sophistication and complexity and quality of the blend. 

Venge "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 2015 

This release got 94 points from Jeb Dunnuck and 93 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Winery notes: "The base starts with old-vine Zinfandel from Venge's Signal Fire Vineyard in Calistoga (where some of those vines have been producing for over 100 years!) and build upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain-vineyard Syrah from the Stagecoach Vineyard. The result is an unpretentious red wine that will satisfy time and time again.’ 

“This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of aromas of stone fruits, crushed blue herbs, violets, cherry, anise, and a touch of honeysuckle. On the palate is pure richness from the old-vine Zinfandel with loads of super-ripe blackberry, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness are found throughout the palate, with an extra-long finish."

Deep garnet-purple colored, full bodied, rich, bold expressive dense, forward, especially ripe black berry and black currant fruits, this is another fruit bomb that is almost a bit over the top with its super ripe fruits' opulence, almost bordering on raisin notes with a bit of burnt coffee and tobacco notes turning to anise and dark bitter mocha with hints of cedar and pepper on the long moderate tannin laced finish.

Wednesday, February 12, 2025

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

Birthday Lunch at Ella’s Western Springs

We met with several of the kids and grandkids for a birthday lunch celebrating Linda’s and granddaughter Marilyn’s birthdays. We met at Ella’s Italian Eatery in Western Springs, the renovated make-over of the previous Vie fine dining restaurant. What a transformation! They completely gutted and built a whole new restaurant with wide open views from the kitchen view seating in the rear to the front - one large dining room in the rear and the large bar and adjacent seating in the front half. Remarkable and well done, a huge improvement over the chopped up segregated multiple dining rooms of the previous configuration. 

Ella’s is the latest addition to the family of “family-friendly dining” establishments, adding to their existing locations in nearby Elmhurst and in Geneva, IL. They promote an “experience starting with (our) handcrafted dough, accented by creative Italian pub-style street food offerings along with an extensive wine list”.

The menu is extensive, featuring pizzas and a broad selection of Italian cuisine. 

I ordered the Tagliatelle Bolognese, Italian Meat Ragu with Tomato Sauce and Parmiaganna Regiano with an addition of a veal meatball. It was delicious. 


From the wine list, I ordered a BTG - By The Glass selection of an Italian Piedmontese Langhe Nebbiolo to compare with recent tastings of the Massolino wines from this varietal and region, as featured in several recent posts in these pages - . 
 
Boroli “1661” Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

This 100% Nebbiolo varietal is from the Boroli family Piedmont estate that dates back to 1831. The family started their winemaking business in 1997 when Silvano and Elena Boroli felt stepped away from their publishing business to pursue their passion producing wine. They grew the company until their son, Achille, stepped in to run the wine-growing and production business in 2012. The estate consisted of 27 acres planted primarily to the native grape varietal Nebbiolo. Achille Boroli is joined by Enzo Alluvione in duties as winemaker.  Total winery production is 18,911 bottles. 

With the 2012 grape harvest Achille decided to radically change the methods used in vineyards and wineries, aiming for the highest quality in Barolo and its crus. He cut production levels, updated the winemaking technology, and focused on low intervention methods to raise the quality of the Boroli wines striving to be on par with the finest Barolo wines.

Winemaker notes - “The Nebbiolo 2022 is an ode to lively freshness. With its bright ruby color, this wine exudes elegance right from the start. The bouquet is fresh and fruity, with notes of ripe strawberry, spring flowers, and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, it presents a youthful and vibrant structure, with agile tannins and a freshness that enhances the red fruit, mint, and a subtle touch of green tea.”

The 2021 release of this label was awarded 94 points and an Editors Choice by Wine Enthusiast, 91 by Wine Spectator, and 90 by Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby red color, medium bodied, bright vibrant red berry and currant fruits with earthy notes of spice and herbs with smooth velvety tannings on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 


Sunday, February 9, 2025

Long Shadows Pirouette 2016 with beef roast

Long Shadows Pirouette 2016 with beef roast 

After enjoying the Long Shadows Pirouette 2014 at Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Linda prepared a beef roast and I pulled out the next vintage release of this label to enjoy, and compare with the earlier vintage in a mini-vertical comparison tasting. 

As I wrote in that recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, This is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product.

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection, and our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA) in these pages.

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases. 

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to following the earlier release tasting.

Long Shadows "Pirouette" Columbia Valley Bordeaux Blend 2016

Winemaker notes - “A richly aromatic wine with beautiful notes of cassis, toasted walnuts, fresh rosemary and a hint of earthiness. On the palate, silky tannins create an elegant, textured mouthfeel with layers of blackberry, ripe cherry, dark chocolate and a hint of oak spice that gain focus across a vibrant finish.”

The 2016 Pirouette a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. It as fermented in barrel and aged 22 months in 75% new oak. 2,188 cases were produced.

“It is sourced from Red Mountain, praised for its Cabernet Sauvignon and this wine displays all the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize the grapes from this acclaimed growing region. Dionysus Vineyard's Petit Verdot adds layers of complex aromas and flavors. The remainder of the blend is from select Wahluke Slope vineyards. The Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine; Cabernet Franc adds a hint of earthiness; and Malbec contributes appealing spice and beautiful color.”

At nearing ten years of age, this is most likely at the apex of its drinking profile and window, but will continue to age gracefully for up to another decade. 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar and Wine & Spirits,  91 by Wine Enthusiast, 90 by James Suckling and Wine Spectator. 

Dunnuck said this was “another best-to-date from this estate”.

Dark garnet colored full bodied, deep, concentrated, forward round, ripe blackberry and black currant fruits, notes of black cherry notes of bitter dark chocolate, licorice, oak, tobacco leaf, hints of cinnamon nd clove spices and cedar with smooth tongue-saturating tannins. 


Saturday, February 8, 2025

Waygu Beef and Mendoza Cab Franc at Entourage Lunch

Waygu Beef and Mendoza Cab Franc at Entourage Lunch

After watching grandson Miles play youth basketball, we diner for Saturday lunch at Entourage Restaurant DG (Downers Grove, IL), which is fast becoming our favorite local restaurant. 

With somewhat limited seating, and growing popularity, it’s becoming a tough seat for dinner so mid-afternoon is a smart time to visit Entourage for easier access seating, such as was the case today, in the dining room and at the bar. 


I ordered from the Day’s Specials menu the Waygu Beef Stroganoff. Like their Signature Waygu meatloaf entree, this could easily become my favorite go-to dish - delicious in all respects. 


PS note - we dined there again the following Saturday and this was no longer offered, but we were told it was hugely popular and got rave reviews, such that they were considering bringing it back, if not for an encore, perhaps as a permanent feature. 

For my Waygu Beef, I ordered from the WBTG selections this Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc from Argentina. 

Archaval Ferrer Mendoza Cabernet Franc 2022

This is from the prolific producer Achaval Ferrar, considered one of the finest wineries of Argentina. They have established an international reputation for Bordeaux-style reds, which include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and this Cabernet Franc. 
 
This is from the Mendoza province of Argentina, by far the largest and best-known winemaking province, it is responsible for over 70% of the country’s enological output. It lies in the eastern foothills of the Andes Mountains where the climate is dry and continental, which has proven ideal for viticulture. 

Mendoza, divided into several distinctive sub-regions, including Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, which has emerged as the source of some of the country’s finest wines.

While Mendoza is known primarily for Malbec, the most widely grown grape varietal, but all the Bordeaux varietals are commonly grown here. The Bordelaise varietals were brought to Argentina by the French in the mid-1800s, where they found success due to the ideal climate and consistent growing seasons. Besides Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc as well as Syrah and Pinot Noir are all widely planted here. 

Cabernet Franc has found the height of Valle de Uco as an ideal place to develop fully. The great exposure to the sun and the cold mountain breeze give it harmony and structure, resulting in a wine with a wide range of aromas and flavors. It delivers herbal and spicy notes, from black fruits to the freshness of tomato leaves and rosemary, with a strong presence of peppers and menthols. 

This 100% Cabernet Franc comes from high-altitude vineyards in Tupungato, which offer excellent sun exposure and cool mountain breezes. These attributes allow the grapes to ripen under ideal conditions. 

This was aged for 13 months in new French oak barrels.

It was awarded 91 Points, Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by James Suckling  

This was a nice complement to the Waygu Beef and mushrooms and a nice value, available BTG - By The Glass. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, rich, dense, savory ripe black berry fruits with accents of tobacco leaf, cassis and spices with approachable moderate tannins on the finish.

RM 90 points. 

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

Thursday, February 6, 2025

Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville

Long Shadow’s Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville 

To celebrate a major business transaction, we went out to dinner at Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Naperville. We both ordered steaks and from the wine list, a Red Bordeaux varietal blend from a notable producer and winemaker. 

I ordered the signature 8 oz filet of beef with a side of garlic mashed potatoes. 


Linda ordered the simple price fixe menu, a six ounce filet which came with Bordelaise sauce and a side of garlic mashed potatoes. Had we known it came with the potatoes, it would’ve saved us ordering a redundant duplicate order of such! Equally disturbing was the fact her filet seemed to be a larger portion and nicer cut than mine. C’est la vie. 


I was seriously considering ordering a lobster tail as a side to my steak, but opted for the lobster tempura starter instead, which provided us each a small tail. The impetus for this was to compare with lobster spring roles that we had as a starter at Bijoux Restaurant in Destin last fall. The spring rolls were much better! I would suggest a pass on the Sullivan’s tempura. 


The highlight of the dinner was our wine selection from the Sullivan wine list. This was a perfect pairing with the grilled beefsteaks. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pirouette Red Blend 2014

This is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection, and our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA) in these pages. 

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases. Checking out cellar inventory, we hold every vintage of this label going back to the year following this vintage, hence this was an obvious choice to find this aged vintage release of this label. 

This label is the collaboration of two legendary winemakers, Philippe Melka and Agustin Huneeus, Sr. teamed to combine the heritage of old world winemaking with the advancements of new world technology, using small lots from Washington State’s finest vineyards to craft this exotic red blend.

Agustin Huneeus entered the wine business in Chile in 1960 to lead Concha y Toro, a company he grew to become Chile’s largest winery. In 1971, he moved to New York, then later to California, continuing in the wine industry before becoming a partner and president of Franciscan Estates in 1985.

In addition to building Franciscan, he also built well-known California wineries Estancia and Mount Veeder and Veramonte Winery in Chile. In 1999, he left Franciscan to establish Huneeus Vintners, a portfolio that includes Napa Valley’s Quintessa where he worked with talented winemaker Phillip Melka.

The 2016 Pirouette is partially crafted by Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, selected to produce this signature label for the Winemakers Collection.

We have long been fans of Philippe Melka and his signature labels Matisse and 'CJ', named for his children.

While we had owned the various labels over the years, we really discovered Long Shadows at the Long Shadows Wine Cellars tasting room during our Woodinville Wine Experience. We joined their club and have been taking regular shipments of the collection ever since. They provide remarkable wines at great value relative QPR. 

Philippe Melka, widely recognized as one of the leading craftsmen of his trade, graduated from the University of Bordeaux, France, where he received a degree in geology in 1989. After earning a master's degree in agronomy and enology, he worked at some of the most famous wineries in the world: Château Cheval Blanc, Pétrus and Château Haut-Brion, among others. There he developed a passion for and expertise in cabernet-based blends. 

He then went on to working at prestigious wineries in Australia, Italy, California.

In 1994, Philippe settled in Napa Valley where he developed his reputation making wines for such celebrated wineries as Hundred Acre, Quintessa, Bryant Family, Seavey, Constant, Lail, Dana Estates and Vineyard 29 before joining the dream project partnering with Agustin Hunneus from Quintessa and Allen Shoup at Long Shadows. 

Today, Philippe Melka and his wife, Cherie, reside at Melka Cellars in Napa Valley. Cherie is an accomplished wine professional and laboratory manager at Silver Oak.

The Pirouette Vintners' Collection label collaboration was launched with the inaugural 2003 vintage.

Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, used small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards to craft this enticing red blend. Seeking to create a wine with complexity and layers, the winemakers chose a diverse selection of Columbia Valley vineyard sites, each contributing unique characteristics to the blend. 

The 2014 Pirouette checks in as a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Petit Verdot, 17% Merlot, 7% Cab Franc and a splash of Malbec.  

This Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine, sourced primarily from Red Mountain, displays structure, richness and a focused mouthfeel that has come to characterize Red Mountain Cabernet. Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot adds layers of complex aromas and flavors. Weinbau Vineyard (Wahluke Slope) Merlot adds bright, red and black fruit intensity.

Aged 22 months in French oak barrels (75% new) before bottling, unfiltered and unfined.

Winemaker Notes - “Deep in color and complexity, this wine combines expressive red fruit aromas with dark chocolate and blueberry flavors accented by hints of oak spice that evolve across the palate. A juicy yet beautifully balanced wine with a rich mouthfeel and persistent finish.’

“The growing season started early in 2014 and the dry, warm conditions that characterized spring set the stage for another hot summer season. Temperatures were consistently warm throughout June and July, hastening an early start to harvest, but the Columbia Valley’s balmy fall days and cool autumn nights allowed the grapes to reach full physiological maturity while preserving the fruits’ natural acidity and yielding high quality grapes across the board. In short, 2014 was a picture-perfect vintage that produced remarkably rich, flavorful wines.”

This 2014 release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and called it “a killer wine from this estate, and possibly the best to date”. Wine Enthusiast gave it 91 points.

Inky dark garnet colored, full-bodied, complex, round, rich, forward, super ripe sweet blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of graphite, spice, dark mocha chocolate, smoke and herbs with ripe tannin on a lingering. The sweetness is almost off-putting. 

RM 93

@LongShadowsWine


@unwindwine

Wednesday, February 5, 2025

Massolino wines with spaghetti

Massolino Piedmontese Barolo and Barbera wines with spaghetti 

Linda prepared spaghetti and I pulled from the cellar two bottles, just recently acquired Massolino red wines. We met the producer Franco Massolino week before last down in Florida at the special Massolino Wine Producer Dinner at Wine World Wine Bar, Destin (FL).

Having just been introduced to this brand, meeting the producer, and tastin
g a flight of his wines paired with the dinner courses, I was interested to see what wines are available back in Chicago.

I visited Binny’s, our wine and beverage big box superstore and picked up each of the Massolino labels available to try, and compare with the broad flight we tasted at the dinner. 

Massolino is one of Piedmont’s most respected and historic producers dating back to its founding in 1896. I wrote more about their history in my blogpost - Massolino Wine Dinner Destin.

Massolino’s vineyards, located in the prized areas of Serralunga d'Alba, benefit from the region’s calcareous soils and high altitude, which contribute to the wine’s distinctive minerality and longevity.

Massolino Barbara D’Alba Serralunga D’Alba 2021

This is an earlier vintage of the 2022 Massolino Barbera d'Alba that we tasted at the Destin wine dinner. 

Barbera d’Alba DOC is a popular wine produced in the area, in the historic village situated right in between the famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco, Alba is also the name for the larger wine region surrounding the village.  It has been produced since its first year of production back in 1896. This Barbera is released onto the market in the spring following harvest.

Generally, “Alba” is a catch-all phrase, and includes the declassified Nebbiolo varietal grape based wines made in Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Nebbiolo grown just outside of these regions’ borders. 

Nebbiolo d’Alba is a softer, less tannic and more fruit-forward wine ready to drink within just a couple years of bottling. It is more approachable and affordable variation of Nebbiolo wines.

Friendly and approachable, Barbera produces wines in a wide range of styles, from youthful, fresh and fruity to serious, structured and age-worthy. Piedmont is the most famous source of Barbera; those from Asti and Alba being the most well known and most highly regarded. 

Barbera is planted alongside the predominant Nebbiolo in the surrounding hills, and referred to as Barbera d’Alba, takes on a more powerful and concentrated personality compared to its counterparts in Asti.

Barbera adapt well to many climates and has been successful in some New World regions.

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: deep purplish red. Bouquet: elegant, sweet and tempting, the intense and fruity notes characteristic of Barbera emerge. Flavour: vinous, fresh and well balanced. An easy to drink wine which is tasty and rich without being excessively binding.” 

This was a nice complement pairing to the spaghetti and tangy tomato and bolognese sauce. 

Slightly opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruit flavors with notes of cedar, tar and black tea with a crisp tannic finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/4338733

We opened this the following evening with left over spaghetti. 

Massolino Barollo 2020

The Massolino Barolo 2020 is a classic expression of Nebbiolo, a wine that showcases the unique terroir of Serralunga while adhering to traditional winemaking techniques, such as fermentation in large oak barrels, to enhance the wine’s authenticity and sense of place. 

This Barolo is an outstanding representation of the 2020 vintage and a superb addition to any collection, offering a harmonious blend of finesse, structure, and aging potential. This is designated a Barolo DOCG Classico and is 100% Nebbiolo, blended from the various vineyards of the Massolino estate, crafted to be a ‘holistic expression of our hills’. Made from grapes grown in different vineyards, Barolo DOCG Classico Massolino “represents the synthesis of the different characteristics offered by each terroir”, resulting in a wine of greater depth and complexity.

This blend of grapes sourced from across the Massolino estate vineyards, as compared to a single designated specific vineyard label, which are produced as ultra-premium bottlings and ultra-premium price-points, such as the one served at our Destin Wine Dinner - 2020 Massolino Barolo from the Margheria Vineyard. 

It should be noted that this is a premium wine, as indicated by the DOCG designation, and is a price-point  twice that of the Barbera D’Alba. The producer notes - “Barolo DOCG classico occupies an outstanding role for our estate. With this wine, we wish to propose a bottle of the very highest level!” 

So, the progression of these wines in this post, range from $25, to $50, to $120 to $185. 

This is traditionally aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 30 months before being left to mature in bottles placed in special dark, cool cellars, “to maintain a purer and more forthright identity. A broad and variable range of aromas, with a surprising expressive evolution over time.” 

Nebbiolo is more than a bit deceiving. It looks pale and light like a Pinot Noir, but it produces big bold, powerful full bodied, wines that also tend to be mercilessly tannic. 

This classic label was first produced by Massolino in 1947.

While the spaghetti was even better the following evening, it was nicely paired with this more complex and sophisticated red wine. 

The 2020 vintage is a beautiful example of the house style, combining elegance, power, and structure. This Barolo opens with aromas of red cherries, wild berries, and rose petals, accompanied by notes of tobacco, spices, and subtle earthy undertones. 

The wine is classic Barolo and its distinctive style and profile - full-bodied on the palate, with firm tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, persistent finish. The balance of fruit and structure makes this Barolo approachable in its youth, but it also has the depth and complexity to age gracefully for many years. 

Winemaker notes - “Appearance: garnet red colour with variable intensity depending on the vintage. Bouquet: the grapes come from different vineyards and this gives them a broad and variable spectrum of perfumes, ranging from tempting spicy notes to those of a sweeter, floral and fruity nature. Flavour: a variety of sensations, with a full-bodied, classic and well structured wine which ages well and perfectly represents the important character of our land.”

The 2020 vintage was rated 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Kerin O'Keefe and Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Medium ruby colored, medium bodied, complex but nicely balanced and smooth, expressive bright vibrant ripe mixed berry fruits with notes of savory herbs, cedar, black tea, hints of clove spice, anise, tar with mineral, soft velvety tannins, on the moderate finish.

RM 92 points.  


Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Nebbiolo 2015

I acquired this ultra-premium aged vintage label from Binny’s wine cellar which we’ll hold for a special occasion, suitable for opening such a wine. 

The CellarTracker posted drinking window for this wine is 2025 through 2044, hence its just now entering its prime drinking window, having benefited from a decade of aging, and it is projected to last for another two decades at its peak. 

Wines such as this are made for long term cellaring and aging, holding for a perfect opportunity and occasion for enjoying, and pairing with optimal food. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3273868

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3273868

https://www.massolino.it/en/

Monday, February 3, 2025

Beau Vigne Napa Valley Red Blend 2013

Beau Vigne Napa Valley Red Blend 2013

Sean and Michelle dined with us and they grilled ribeye steaks at our house, served with grilled cauliflower.

I pulled from the cellar this Napa Valley Big Red Blend for a delicious pairing. 

Beau Vigne Napa Valley Red Blend 2013

As part of proper cellar, inventory management I pulled the oldest of the range of vintages we hold of this label. We’ve had two other vintages of this label, one several years older from 2018, and one recently acquired just released bottle from the 2022 vintage. These were featured in these pages in this recent post of the later release - Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022, and an earlier post on the older vintage, excerpted below.

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022

Watching “The Sticky” series on Netflix, we had some of the leftover delicious beef tenderloin in avocado sandwiches. I opened this premium Napa Red Blend from a just received shipment that we were eager to try. This is another Big Red from another emerging interesting Napa producer who produces a wide portfolio of wines from estate and contract growers and purchased lot sources.

If the pedigree of the winemaker says anything, then Beau Vigne is in a distinguished class with 100-point winemaker Julien Fayard (Lafite Rothschild, Smith Haut Lafitte, Melka, Quintessa, Realm, Covert Estate), and where Dave Phinney was the founding winemaker! Note also, the collaboration with Philippe Melka, and contribution of another of our fav’s, winemaker Kirk Venge. 

I featured Beau Vigne in detail in a more extensive blogpost last summer - Beau Vigne Napa Valley Proprietary Red, and several other blogposts such as the one’s below.

The producer writes - “Our Napa Valley winery is devoted exclusively to making influential luxury Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon Blends. Taking inspiration from our founding winemaker Dave Phinney who sought out to make red wines that would compete with the greatest wines of the world. This tradition was enhanced by the addition of winemaker Kirk Venge in 2008 through 2018/19 who obtained a perfect 100 Points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Present-day winemaking is now in the hands of Julien Fayard who hails from the legendary first growth Château Lafite-Rothschild and Atelier Melka before becoming the brilliant up and coming new winemaker in Napa Valley.”

Beau Vigne was taken over by Charles Bartlett when he purchased the brand in 2019 with the intent to carry on the dream created by Ed and Trish Snider, whom he has known for many years. Charles has worked in Napa since the late 1970s and has built a successful wine trading company, working with many of the top names in the mountain AVAs. 

Bartlettl hired Julien Fayard to establish and oversee modern practices in the vineyard and in the cellar. The release of beau Vigne CULT Cabernet Sauvignon, beacme one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed labels with year-over-year 93 to 98 points from critics. Beau Vigne continues the tradition of hand-harvested grapes planted and grown on Atlas Peak, the Pritchard Hill region and other viticultural areas of Napa Valley including Howell Mountain, Oakville and Rutherford.

We featured our tastings from the Beau Vigne portfolio in these recent blogposts:  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-reserve-proprietary-red-wine.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/beau-vigne-proprietary-red-byob-at.html

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2022

This is a most recent limited release label from the BV collection such that even the CellarTracker inventory of a million labels and collection of several million tasting notes, doesn’t yet have any mentions! 

Unlike an earlier release of the same label back in 2013, this release doesn’t list the blend and is therefore presumed to be 100% Cabernet Sauvignon? 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/07/beau-vigne-napa-valley-proprietary-red.html

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, rich round ripe black berry and black currant fruits with spicy acidity, hints of graphite, bittersweet dark chocolate, cassis and black tea on a full lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5207604

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5207604

https://www.beauvigne.com/

From an earlier posting - Saturday, October 22, 2022 - Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Wine.

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Wine 2013

This producer first caught my attention when buddy Bob brought it to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite. Bob picked up the bottle at his local Total Wine beverage superstore in Boca Raton Town Center. I saw the label when there and also at the new Total Wine in Indy. 

So, when son Ryan got their wine club promotional mailing and shared it I was eager to pick up a mixed case of their Signature Series Bordeaux varietals including this aged vintage release from their library close-out. My shipment just arrived and I was eager to try this. It did not disappoint. 

Beau Vigne (pronounced bo-veenya), was founded by Ed and Trish Snider with their first vintage release in 2002. Translated from French it means beautiful vineyard in French.

Ed’s family has a long history in Napa Valley dating back to his Swiss Italian grandfather Martin Garzoli who arrived in Napa in 1913. He grew up on a ranch in Carneros and worked on farms in Napa and Sonoma. Martin made his own wines at home in the evenings. His son John Garzoli played for the San Francisco 49ers in 1955 and went on to coach football at St. Helena High School in the center of Napa Valley where children of many vintners attended school. A number of Ed’s former students are now in the wine industry.

In 2018, they sold Beau Vigne to Don Dady and Jason Kyle from Arizona. Jason was a former NFL football player, a long snapper for five different teams including the San Francisco 49ers. In addition to his wine interests, Jason is co-owner of Press Coffee Roasters with locations in Arizona.  Partner Dady is co-founder of Annexus, a financial company in Scottsdale and also owns Seven Apart Winery in Napa Valley just north of the city of Napa. 

Beau Vigne sourced fruit for their estate wines from their 10 acre Stags Ridge Vineyard at the top of Soda Canyon Road on the slopes of Atlas Peak at about 1650 feet elevation. The site was planted to 8 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ed sold the vineyard and it is now a part of Seven Apart Winery’s estate. Beau Vigne continues to source grapes from there and other premium vineyards in Napa Valley. 

Since 2019, Beau Vigne has partnered with Appellation Trading Company to distribute Beau Vigne as part of their portfolio of brands. 

Over the years, Beau Vigne has been crafted by several highly regarded Napa Valley winemakers. Their founding winemaker was Dave Phinney who went on to develop several successful brands, most notably, Orin Swift Cellars and the Prisoner portfolio of wines. One of our favorite winemakers, Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards has also crafted Beau Vigne wines. Today the winemaker is Julien Fayard.

Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. He worked at legendary Chateaux Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite in Bordeaux before relocating to Napa Valley where he was Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before setting out on his own.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis. 

Recently, Beau Vigne became part of a select collection of vintners represented at Vintner’s Collective, the city of Napa’s oldest collective tasting room. They showcase wines from an elite group of premier Napa Valley producers who do not have their own tasting rooms. Select bottlings and vintages of Beau Vigne are available for tasting and purchased there. 

Beau Vigne bottles wines under three different brands; the Legacy Series, the Signature Series and the Discovery Series. 

Beau Vigne Reserve Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2013

This 2013 is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc. The producer cited it amongst the best wines Beau Vigne had made to date. That says a lot since Robert Parker awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. He also awarded the Beau Vigne Reserve Cabernet from this vintage a stellar perfect 100 points.

Winemaker notes: "When tasted, it was still locked and loaded. Dense and dark, with notes of soil incense, violets, black cherry and black raspberry elements are also still present. The wine is full-bodied, opulent, with great vigor and delineation. This is a sensational example what happens after nine years in the bottle."

The Beau Vigne Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from this vintage, the same fruit that forms the foundation for this blend, was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker. 

Parker wrote about that wine: "Profound, with a stunning aromatic display of blue and black fruits, charcoal, graphite, and spring flowers. The wine has a flawless entry and mouthfeel, with a full-bodied density, opulence and an incredible finish of close to a minute." 

He also awarded the 2013 Beau Vigne "Cult" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 96 points inRobert Parker's Wine Advocate . That wine too contains the same Cabernet Sauvignon as in this blend. That blend contained 98:2% while this one is 70:30. Parker wrote of that wine: "Similarly styled is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Cult, which is 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. The biggest cuvée of any of these wines, the color is blackish/purple as a moonless night. It offers fabulous fruit and incredible density and richness, with lots of camphor, blackberry and cassis fruit, hints of espresso bean and chocolate as well as some background oak. This is a big, full-throttle, savory style of wine that should age effortlessly for 20-25+ years (RP)."

Tonight, this was delicious, showing even better than previous tastings, benefiting from a couple more years of cellaring/aging, allowing the flavors to integrate more and settle together gracefully It was an ideal pairing with the grilled ribeye beefsteaks.

As a blend of the same fruit as those wines, it has a similar profile. Dark blackish purple colored, full bodied, dense, rich concentrated black fruits accented by a layer of camphor that initially may be a bit unnerving to some, with notes of cassis, expresso and dark bitter mocha with some graphite and oak on the full lingering finish. 

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2010086

www.beauvigne.com


Sunday, February 2, 2025

Gary Farrell RRV Pinot Noir with Baked Brie

Gary Farrell Sonoma Coast Russian River Valley Pinot Noir with Baked Brie

Quiet evening in, watching episodes of the Lincoln Lawyer on Netflix, Linda prepared some Baked Brie Cheese with croissant dough crust filled with berry compote and topped with baked apples. 

For pairing and casual sipping I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2015

We visited the picturesque and stylish Gary Farrell Estate Winery and Hospitality Center that lies west of Healdsburg, (CA), perched on a hilltop overlooking the Russian River Valley during our Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017. The inviting indoor space offers stunning views of the valley with floor to ceiling windows, and there’s an expansive terrace so guests can enjoy the wines alfresco. The walls are adorned with a collection of colorful artwork. They were so hospitable and inviting, we’ve enjoyed their wines ever since. 


Gary Farrell "Russian River Selection" Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2015

Winemakers’ Notes - “Finesse and elegance are hallmarks of this delightful appellation blend. Vibrant notes of wild strawberries, raspberry preserves, and pomegranate fill the glass. Delicate aromas of rose petals and violets intertwine with a backdrop of cinnamon, grated nutmeg, pink peppercorn, and dried cloves. Medium bright upon entry, flavors of cherry cola and Ceylon black tea coat the palate and are balanced with traces of vanilla and blonde toast.”

This was a nice pairing with the baked Brie and baked apples.

This Russian River Selection label is a blend of several vineyard sources throughout the Russian River Valley, including Hallberg and Galante in the cooler Green Valley AVA, the top rated Rochioli as well as Toboni, Floodgate, Martaella, Hop Kiln, Nonella and Pratt-Lakeview.

Blended from some of the region’s top vineyards, introduces a range of terroir and flavors, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. The Hop Kiln, Rochioli and Bacigalupi vineyards are located in the Middle Reach subdivision, where close proximity to the river awards foggy mornings, warm and sunny days, and cool nights – the perfect balance that characterizes the Russian River Valley. 

The Toboni and Nonella vineyards are located in the Santa Rosa Plain, a distinctly cooler and foggier sub-region, and the Hallberg and Dutton sites within the Green Valley sub-appellation exhibit even more extreme and cooler conditions. A beautiful expression of the varietal and of the appellation’s unique terroir, this Pinot Noir blend captures the richness, purity and elegance that are Gary Farrell Winery’s trademarks.

The 2015 Pinot Noir crop was modest in size but the quality was exceptional across the board. A mild winter, with sunny, spring-like weather beginning in February, led to early bud break, followed by an early, yet extended bloom. Cooler weather in the spring contributed to variable crop size and the production of petite Pinot Noir clusters.

Warm, dry weather in the summer provided optimal conditions for flavor, tannin and color development. The small clusters, berries and stems provided nearly impeccable material for creating great wines with tremendous natural acidity and abundant aromatics. High temperatures in August and early September accelerated maturity and precipitated the intense, compacted picking season. 

The wine was racked into 40% new French oak barrels (light and medium toast François Frères, Ana Selection, Remond and Tonnellerie O) for 10 months of barrel aging on primary lees.

Winemaker Tasting Notes - “This beautiful Pinot Noir displays the qualities of an exceptional, yet small vintage, expressing purity of place, boasting aromas of ripe Bing cherry, juicy raspberry and tangerine zest, with hints of underbrush and dried herbs from the whole-cluster inclusion. Flavors of wild berry, rosemary, black tea and rose petal unfold on the palate, followed by hints of cedar box that accentuate the rich fruit flavors. The fine-grained, slightly firm tannins develop into a soft, velvety finish, complemented by mouthwatering, vibrant acidity.

It got 94 points from Wine Enthusiast and 92 points from Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

At eleven years of age, this may be perhaps at the end of its prime drinking profile - still tasting nicely but not likely to improve with further aging. The fruits might be slightly subdued from last tasting this release several years ago - reduced my earlier rating by a point from 92 to 91. 

Ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, nicely balanced, polished, dusty rose with fruits of black berry, black cherries, raspberries, smoky, earthy, black tea and floral notes with crisp acidity, youthful tannins and oak. 

RM 91 points.