Château Talbot St Julien Bordeaux 2011

Château Talbot St Julien Bordeaux 2011

Continuing the theme of revisiting our trip to St Julien Bordeaux a year ago this week, we opened another label from a producer estate that we saw last year. We toured and did a private tasting at nearby Château Gruaud Larose that used to be part of the Cordier Family holdings. While we didn't do a tasting and tour of Château Talbot we did drive over to see the estate that sits adjacent to Gruaud Larose.

We've had the pleasure of meeting fourth generation Philippine Bignon of the Cordier family, during her visits to Chicago as part of the UGCB North American release tour. The family have been proprietors of Château Talbot for four generations dating back to the turn of the last century.

Patriarch and her Great-great-grandfather Désiré Cordier wrote in his memoirs, "to be and to remain the owner of a well respected vineyard, one must be endowed with a real aristocracy that identifies itself with the vineyard and the wine. Everything must be sacrificed for this, to be a grand cru owner, you must in some way be in love with it…”

His son Georges and then his grandson, Jean, succeeded him as the head of the estate. Under their guidance, Talbot became one of the most famous growths in the Bordeaux region.

Following the death of Jean Cordier, his daughters Lorraine and Nancy, took over Talbot, building upon the knowledge and experience of past generations, they worked together to carry on the traditions and commitment to excellence to do justice to the Grand Cru.

Today Nancy Bignon Cordier, her husband Jean-Paul, their children Philippine, Marguerite and Gustave Bignon carry on the legacy of Talbot; a long history which has always united the destiny of the family to the vineyard.

We've held this label going back almost four decades and still hold vintage releases dating back to 1985, 1986 and 1989.

Tonight, in partial vicarious revisiting our St Julien trip, and to follow on and compare to the St Julien Clos du Marquis we enjoyed the previous evening, we pulled from the cellar this almost ten year vintage release for pleasurable drinking with leftover grilled steak, bbq beef, sweet corn and balsamic vinagrette caprese tomatoes with fresh home grown basil.

Château Talbot St Julien Bordeaux 2011

This estate bottled flagship Château Talbot is sourced from the vineyards with classic St Julien Medoc gravelly soil and 50 year old vines that surround the Château, and is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. It was aged in 50% new French oak for fifteen months.

The 2011 vintage followed the legendary vintages of 2009-2010 and therefore was perceived as an off year with warm weather and low rainfall in the spring, one hot weekend in the end of June, followed by a cold summer, rainy August and finally a hot September. As with many lesser rated vintages, especially those adjacent to a top rated vintage, the 2011 could be considered underrated thereby is more affordable and offers good drinking and reasonable ageability for a decade or more. In its ninth year, it is likely as its apex and not likely to improve with any further aging.

Dark garnet colored, light medium bodied, minimal structure with moderate backbone, bright black berry and currant fruits with notes of cassis, cedar, graphite and subtle oak with moderate underlying tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1352544

https://www.chateau-talbot.com/

@TalbotOfficial

 

Leoville Las Cases Clos du Marquis 1999

Leoville Las Cases Clos du Marquis 1999

A year ago this week we were touring St Julien Bordeaux where we visited Chateau Leoville Las Cases which was one of the highlights of our trip there. So it was fitting that for a casual grilled steak dinner with baked potatoes and sweet corn, I pulled from the cellar this Clos du Marquis label from the Domaines Delon estate.

As I wrote at the time in our chronicle of the trip, Clos du Marquis is a label from Domaine Leoville St Julien, a perfect expression of the Saint-Julien features based on structure, harmony, distinction, complexity and ageing potential.

Clos du Marquis was created at the beginning of the 20th century when the vineyard was planted,  inspired by the Petit Clos adjacent to the Château de Léoville, residence of the Marquis de Las Cases.

Clos du Marquis is a historic brand by the Domaines Delon, a separate vineyard that is across the road from Leoville Las Cases, whose first vintage was released in 1902. The creation of this brand was to allow a clear identification of two completely distinct terroirs of the two estate vineyards.

We hold many vintages of the Clos du Marquis and in error always thought it was a second label of Las Cases rather than a distinctive label in its own right. Upon our return home, we opened a 1989 vintage of Clos du Marquis in tribute to visit there and it was excellent.  

Clos du Marquis is located on some of the finest vineyards with their distinctive terroirs of the Saint Julien appellation, near the Las Cases property and the nearby surrounding prestigious Classified Growths such as Léoville Poyferré and Léoville Barton, and Pichon Lalande across the appellation boundary in Pauillac.

The Clos du Marquis vineyard is a separate cuvée – and not a 'Second Wine', with grapes grown in the Petit Clos (Clos meaning an enclosed garden or field) which is surrounded on all sides by other Second Growths. The Petit Clos vineyard is to the south of the Leoville Las Cases Grand Clos vines and covers 12 acres. It is planted with 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Its name comes from a small walled parcel of land, in French a “clos,” located near the residence of the Marquis de Las-Cases. Clos du Marquis was produced and sold by Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases starting in the late 19th century, which makes it one of the very earliest of the so-called second wines now produced by many Bordeaux estates. The wines are generally made from the fruit of younger vines which are not considered mature enough to produce fruit for the estates’ signature wines. However, they often represent an excellent value and Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that Clos du Marquis in the last 20 years “has been close to the quality of a third or fourth growth.”

Over time it became a wine in its own right and since 1989 has been produced from separate parcels which lie outside Léoville Las Cases' main vineyards. The Clos du Marquis comes from the great terroirs of the Saint-Julien appellation that were not part of the former Léoville estate. These terroirs are located further west and surrounded by prestigious Crus Classés (Classified Growths) including Second Growths from the Saint- Julien and Pauillac appellations: Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton and Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The Clos du Marquis thus displays typical Saint-Julien characteristics: structure, complexity, balance, distinction and great ageing potential. Clos du Marquis has the ability to challenge many other châteaux of the Medoc. Indeed, it is the equal of most 3rd, 4th and 5th Growths and has been an outstanding performer for many years.

Leoville Las Cases Clos du Marquis St Julien Bordeaux 1999

The 1999 vintage will undoubtedly be a bridesmaid, overshadowed by the much heralded 2000 vintage. Like the 1998 Napa to the much heralded '97, it provides pleasurable drinking at a fraction of the cost of the grand vin for great QPR. As all boats rise with the tide, in great vintages, even the second wines provide superior drinking on par with the grand vins. The 1999 vintage fell short of greatness, when, as so frequently happens in Bordeaux, September rains dashed hopes of a spectacular end to the millennium. Nevertheless 1999 was a respectable vintage, generally ahead of 1991, 1992 and 1993, in some instances surpassing 1994 and 1997 (Right Bank) and 1998 (Left Bank).

Reviewer notes: "A classic Bordeaux with a huge personality. Full color development shows. In the nose showing some smoked wood supported by lovely ripe fruit. Hints of spices, chocolate and some leather tip to detect. The scent is very sophisticated. In the mouth a beautiful entrance. Lots of flavor: fruit, spices, nicely integrated wood, great elegance but still some tannin and this gives the wine firm structure. The wine has a good grip and concentration in the mouth. Although wine is now mature, it can still ripen a while. A classic Bordeaux with a stamp."

This label was awarded:

90 points - James Suckling, Wine Spectator,

89 points - James Suckling, Wine Spectator - March 31, 2002,

86 points - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #140 - April 2002,

88-90 points - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #134- April 2001,

90 points - Neal Martin, Wine Journal - July 2011,

90-91 points - Neal Martin, Wine Journal - July 2002, and

88 points - Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar - May/June 2006.

This is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright forward pronounced blackberry and tangy black currant fruits are accented by notes of tea, tobacco, hints of cassis and cedar on the firm, structured but approachable lingering tannins on the finish. At 21 years, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever, likely at the apex of its drinkability.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=11896

Heitz Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Heitz Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2018

With fresh halibut dinner we opened this Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc from legendary producer Heitz Cellars.

I wrote about Heitz Cellars and their role as pioneers of modern California winemaking and Napa Valley wine history in a recent blogpost. Notably, the Heitz family involvement in the estate and brand ended in 2018 when the estate was sold to new ownership and leadership. This label would represent the last vintage release under the Heitz family stewardship.
 Heitz of course are known for Cabernet Sauvignon but they also produce this Sauvignon Blanc, a similar varietal also popular in Nap Valley.

This label is sourced from 45 acres of estate vineyards planted 1996 on Howell Mountain in the northeast corner overlooking Napa Valley.

Heitz Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Winemaker notes speak of this terroir influence in the release - "Our Sauvignon Blanc captures the liveliness of the grape with its bright, crisp flavors.  Refreshing and light, this wine has the joie de vivre to make every occasion a bit more exciting. The fruit is estate sourced from the lower elevations of our Ink Grade Vineyard. In this idyllic spot, the geography and microclimate are uniquely suited for Sauvignon Blanc. The mornings are extremely cold and the afternoons are warm, a variation of temperature that allows for exceptional ripening. This vineyard is organically farmed and the grapes are certified organic. The combination of hillside and high valley fruit gives the wine a complimentary balance of flavors, imparting tropical and citrus notes. Fermented and aged four months in stainless steel, our Sauvignon Blanc is classically fresh and vibrant."

This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, bold notes of zesty citrus fruits of lime and grapefruit with note of lychee and tropical fruits with pronounced minerality and moderate acidity.

RM 88 points.

This label was given 90 points by Wine Spectator.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3263214

Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2003

Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2003

Quiet evening at home, watching a movie, I finished off my leftovers from our dine-out Italian dinner the other night with some artisan cheeses. I pulled from the cellar this vintage Napa Cabernet. I admit I don't know much about this label and find it a bit of an enigma.

Atlas Peak is/was a small lot producer whose winemakers source grape from vineyard partners with mountaintop and lower-elevation vineyards on the both sides of Napa Valley; Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder. Since the producers do not own the land and wines are produced from purchased grapes, these would not be considered Estate bottled or Estate wines. The rear label says it is a combination of estate vineyards and partner vineyard sources in the wine.  

Atlas Peak write that they focus on these 'cornerstone mountain vineyards' for their Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon since they provide "ideal growing conditions for building bold, well-structured wines that express the rugged elegance that comes from great fruit and hard work in hard-to-reach places. Atlas Peak’s most valuable hidden resource is literally underfoot: the elevation of its vineyard at over 1,000 feet. Grapes at high elevation, above the natural fog line, experience much lower daytime temperatures than those on the valley floor, allowing the grapes to stay cool while gaining maximum exposure".

According to the Napa Wine Project, they make their wine at their sister winery, the Geyser Peak Winery located in Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County) in Healdsburg. They write further that "the fruit for their Atlas Peak wines come from their own vineyard and fruit for their other mountain grown wines comes from premium vineyards on Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Mt. Veeder. The wines from these other mountain regions are their “Mountain Series”', distinguished by the black label versus the one white label.

According to the Napa Wine Project, Atlas Peak Winery was founded in 1987 with the intent to focus on Italian varietals including Sangiovese. However over time their relatively high altitude vineyard location, specific soils & climate proved to be very conducive for growing premium Cabernet Sauvignon and now this varietal is their main focus. The actual winery was located on Atlas Peak – but they actually make their wine now at a large winery in Healdsburg (Sonoma County). Their vineyard land comprises about 500 acres making them one of the larger growers on Atlas Peak."

Interesting that they designate this as Napa Valley appellation wine, since it is inconsistent with the fact, on Howell Mountain, based on the fog line reaching up the hill to 1000 foot elevation, grapes above that level are considered Howell Mountain appellation grapes, while grapes below that level are considered Napa Valley. 

With this vintage release in 2003, 'Atlas Peak’s entire philosophy of wine production changed to a focus on the extraordinary fruit grown on the best mountaintops surrounding Napa Valley. The Mountain Cabernet series is now the centerpiece of Atlas Peak’s offerings."

Atlas Peak also is affiliated with its "Sister Sites", Geyser Peak Winery & XYZin Wines. 

According to the American Winery Guide, Atlas Peak Winery was located at 3700 Soda Canyon Road in Napa, California. Today that property is Antica Winery, the 600 acre estate owned by the legendary Italian wine producing Antinori family from Tuscany. They purchased the property in 1993 but leased it back to their partner for fifteen years. They have since taken over the property and developed it with new plantings and a new winery. Antica stands for Antinori in California.

The  Antica Napa Valley estate occupies an elevated plateau of 1210-acres tucked in an amphitheater-like setting of steep mountain tops rising to Atlas Peak with an altitude of 2700 feet. There are approximately 550 acres planted to vineyard: 60% of which are Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% of which are Chardonnay. Approximately 18% -20% of the harvest is selected for the final blend of each for the Antica estate bottled wines, with the remaining fruit sold to other Napa Valley wine producers. 

Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2003

At seventeen years of age, this is still holding up well with the fruits just beginning to diminish and give way to the non-fruit notes of leather and tobacco.

Winemaker Notes - The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon is rich with the flavors of ripe dark fruits and blueberries, surrounded by subtle hints of vanilla bean. The Cabernet is well structured with tannins that are soft and supple. This wine is perfectly suited for a rib eye or T-bone steak cooked to perfection, and is also an excellent match with grilled scallops. - Winemaker's notes from Wine.com

Wine Enthusiast gave this an 86point rating and said, "Atlas Peak Cabernets have always seemed overly tannic, and so is this wine. But it's fruitier and riper than in the past, and may develop. It's tough and astringent, but packs a whallop with black currant flavors." 

This was dark garnet/ruby colored with medium full body, complex with concentrated sweet blackberry and black currant fruits that are accented by notes of cassis, licorice, cola, leather and hints of cigar box and Asian spice.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=270380

http://atlaspeak.com/

Del Dotto Napa Valley Merlot 1997

Del Dotto Napa Valley Merlot 1997

We tasted and acquired this wine at the winery upon its release back in 1999 during our Napa Wine Experience 1999. This was the beginnings of our extensive cellar collection of Del Dotto estate wines dating back to their early years, that today spans more than a dozen labels. Del Dotto has grown from their 13 acre estate on Hwy 29 and Zinfandel Lane on the south edge of St Helena, the site of Del Dotto Winery Caves, to dozens of labels sourced from over 400 acres of vineyard sources across a dozen vineyard sites Napa and Sonoma Counties.

R&L with Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto at TraVigna, 1999

Over the past three years, we've visited the Del Dotto Rutherford Estate and Caves in St Helena and the Piazza Del Dotto Estate Culinary experience - both were highlights of our Napa Valley tours those years. 

In that year, 1999, Del Dotto first introduced their renowned barrel tastings in one of Napa Valley’s oldest caves at Historic Del Dotto over in the southeast corner of Napa Valley near the bottom of the Silverado Trail. Today, they have cave cellar tours at three different locations.

That 1997 vintage was heralded as top rated with promise to release long lived high quality wines. I've written often in these pages how that vintage was tight and closed and took several years to reveal its potential while at times it was overshadowed by the much panned lesser '98 release.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Merlot 1997

This '97 Merlot at 23 years shows the longevity of that vintage as it showed well and still revealed body, structure and fruit flavors, albeit showing its age as the fruit is starting to give way to the non-fruit leather and tobacco notes.

The label, foil and cork were in perfect condition and the fill level of the bottle was ideal - all indicators of the conditions of our cellar being suitable for long term aging of fine wine.

Winemaker Notes - The wine is dark purple in color, jammy, berry aromas, with soft approachable tannins, other flavors include cinnamon, nutmeg, and cocoa powder.

Dark purple garnet colored, medium-full bodied, the firm black berry and black cherry fruits are slowly declining giving way to the non-fruit leather and tobacco notes, accented by notes of cinnamon spice, cedar and cassis, with moderate soft approachable tannins on the tangy lingering finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=12936

@DelDottoWine

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

Bread & Butter California Chardonnay 2017

Bread & Butter California Chardonnay 2017

Picked up this low-cost Chardonnay at Sam's Club to try for simple every day summer sipping. We opened it with dinner of sauteed cod and it was a perfect pairing.

This is a reasonable QPR selection for an every day wine - ideal for such an occasion as mid-week dinner selection.

Bread & Butter California Chardonnay 2017

This was awarded 93 points at the NY International Wine Competition. If you scour enough festivals and events you'll find a top rating eventually for a label.

Winemaker Notes: "This Chardonnay opens with rich notes of vanilla bean and almond husk, reminiscent of a decadent crème brûlée. The creamy notes are balanced by a soft minerality and a hint of tropical fruit. Those creamy notes continue to your palate where they are joined with bright acidity and well-integrated oak that leads into a long, creamy finish."

The producer downplays the fact this is a 'California' wine citing the producer's locale as being Napa, California, that the inattentive might take to mean this is a Napa Valley wine which it is not. The narrative defines it aptly as a California Chardonnay, meaning the grapes are sourced from California with no further specificity offered or required. It notes that it is 'Vinted and Bottled' By the producer, Bread and Butter, whose website offers a broad portfolio of varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé, all non-specific California designated.  

At a $15 retail pricepoint this meets expectations for pleasurable casual every day sipping. S

Slightly brownish straw colored, medium light bodied, rather single dimensional with forward expressive notes of vanilla and buttery oak on the long finish the producer describes as creamy.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3155096


https://www.breadandbutterwines.com/wines/chardonnay/

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

Dining outdoors at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, we took BYOB from our signature producer for such occasions, this Bordeaux Blend from Napa Valley producer Del Dotto. Readers of these pages know we have been collecting Del Dotto dating back to their inaugural vintage release in 1993 and still hold decades of vintage release of more than a dozen labels - one of the largest producer holdings in our cellar collection.

We tasted and acquired this vintage release during our Del Dotto Winery Caves Tour during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

This Del Dotto Caves Blend label is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot.

At five years of age, this has improved with some aging and is more integrated and balanced than in its youth. Dark purple garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright vibrant, nicely integrated and balanced black berry and black raspberry fruits with tangy notes of clove spice and hints of bitter dark chocolate turning to cloying tannins on an lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

Winemakers' notes for this release: "Dark garnet color with a bright bouquet of sweet blueberries, wet rock and fresh cut violets & flowers. Earthy flavors with hints of clove and all spice. This wine has a long, balanced finish with a kiss of oak."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/08/del-dotto-napa-valley-cave-tour-barrel_12.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2381300

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

@DelDottoWine 

Grand Veneur Les Origins CDP 2006

Domaine Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006

Linda prepared bbq ribs and scalloped potatoes with grilled asparagus and I pulled from the cellar this vintage Châteauneuf-du-Pape to accompany our dinner.

Domaine Grand Veneur is a 170-acre estate based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the Southern Rhone Valley. The estate is at the northern edge of the appellation on the southernmost outskirts of the city of Orange. It has been owned and operated by the Jaume family since the early 19th century and is run by Alain Jaume and his two sons.

In addition to the family’s vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, they also have parcels in Cotes du Rhone and Lirac, the appellation on the other side of the Rhone River. Grand Veneur produces red and white wines, and the family also has a negociant business called Alain Jaume & Fils. Robert M. Parker Jr. has called Grand Veneur “one of the best run estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

We hold a half dozen releases of this label dating back to the turn of the century.

This label release got 94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast and 90 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

This is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre, the three primary varietals that are required to be in the blend according to Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation rules. 

I write about the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation in our blogpost from our visit to the region in 2019.

Domaine Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006 

This is dark garnet colored with a slight tinge of purple. Medium-full bodied the dense firm black berry, black currants and black cherry fruits are accented by notes of graphite, licorice, cola and what several of the critics refer to as 'smoked meats', and hints of tar, turning to tangy tight tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=467202