Tuesday, March 22, 2022

Queensyard Hudson Yard New York

Queensyard Hudson Yard New York - a favorite chic trendy lunch spot

In NYC for a team meeting, we lunched at one of my favorite NY eateries, Queensyard in Hudson Yard. We walked over from our hotel to the magnificent Hudson Yard mall complex and dined at the Queensyard restaurant on the fourth floor, overlooking the Hudson Yard Vessel tourist attraction. 

I chose Queensyard and Hudson Yard for a special luncheon for our gathering, welcoming our NY colleague whom we were meeting for the first time in person, due to the Covid disruptions of the last year. It was one of culinary highlights of a previous trip to NYC prior to the Covid crisis.

https://images.getbento.com/accounts/eaf0d9a66759571884259abb97ac20d2/media/Bhkb6We3Q9CUZP29Z4jR_Queensyard_Interiors_015.jpg?w=1200&fit=max&auto=compress,format
The dining room (Queensyard photo) as seen
from my seat.
I love the stylish Queensyard dining room and bar with its bright airy wall of glass windows that overlook the Vessel architectural tourist attraction, its courtyard, the railroad yard, the Hudson River in the background and the opposite New Jersey riverscape. 

The trendy hip dining room sports a large colorful artistic painted murals on the opposing walls. 

They also have a stylish formal dining room framed by the wine wall wine cellar. 

Another reason I chose Hudson Yard is that it is a notable landmark and the tower is the consolidation of several locations from around the city for several of our key valued clients.

My lunch selection and wine pairing may have been the culinary highlight of my entire week in NY. While the rest of the entourage had the burgers, I had a starter and a side dish for lunch accompanied by a WBTG (Wine-By-The-Glass) glass of wine. 

Perhaps the best dining selection of my week was the Chicken Liver Mousse with parsley salad, lemon honey gastrique and toasted brioche. Additionally, I had the side dish, Macaroni & Cheese with stout braised oxtail and english cheddar. 

To accompany my lunch I selected from the WBTG list this Austrian Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner. The perfect wine and food pairing multiplied the enjoyment of each. 

 

Grüner Veltliner Weingut Bründlmayer 'L&T' Kamptal, Austria 2020

This was a perfect accompaniment to my lunch selections. This is from the producer Weingut Bründlmayer from the village of Langenlois, some 70 km north-west of Vienna, upstream along the Danube River in the Lower Austrian Kamp Valley. I traveled the wine region while on a trip to Slovakia several years ago.

The wooded hills of the Waldviertel protect the vineyards from the cold north-westerly winds. During the day, the sun warms the stony terraces, while at night the fresh, fragrant forest air drifts through the Kamp Valley into the Langenlois Arena. The wines are characterised by a combination of hot days and cool nights, the meeting of the Danube and Kamp valleys, and the geological and climatic diversity of the vineyards.

The Bründlmayer estate includes the family dwelling, a cellar equipped with state of the art technology and a heuriger which is open almost all year round and where all wines can be tasted in a convivial atmosphere.

The Bründlmayer vineyards highlight “ancient” vines, some older than 90 years of age, that produce wine that is particularly balanced and rich in character. Their most important varietal is Grüner Veltliner, which is the primary varietal grape in the Langenlois. Its name in an old dialect “Mauhardsrebe” refers to the Manhardsberg, a mountain ridge bordering the Waldviertel with the villages of Langenlois and Zöbing lying to the south.

Climbing north and slightly east of the Kremstal region, Kamptal has very little vineyard area bordering the Danube River (unlike Wachau and Kremstal, whose vineyards run along it). The region takes its name from the river called Kamp, which traverses it north and south. Kamptal’s densely planted vineyards represent eight percent of Austria’s total.

The area experiences wide diurnal temperature variations like the Wachau but with less rain and more frost. Its vast geologic diversity makes it suitable for various experimentations with other varieties besides Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and Zweigelt.

The region is noted for the beautiful and expansive terraced Heiligenstein, arguably one of the world’s top Riesling sites, as well as some of Austria’s most extraordinary Grüner Veltliner vineyards. Kamptal’s soils, which are mostly loess and sand with some gravel and rocks, make it suitable for Grüner Veltliner, so much so that actually half of the zone is planted to that grape.

About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States. Grüner Veltliner wines cover a diverse range from pleasant “light and dry” (such as this one labeled "L+T") to the most complex classified vineyard wines (crus) such as Käferberg or Lamm.

Winemaker Notes - Appealing nose of apples, fresh citrus and mild flowery aromas, as well as rosewood, green peas and asparagus. Fresh and crisp with flavors of sappy fruits on the palate followed 

This wine was rated 90 points by James Suckling.

Light straw colored, light bodied, notes of pear and green and yellow-apple with hints of citrus, lime and herbs with crisp acidity on a smooth finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4059234

https://www.bruendlmayer.at/en/

Monday, March 21, 2022

Amarone Amarone

Amarone Amarone casual quaint Italian dining NYC

In NYC for team meetings, we dined at Amarone, a quaint casual neighborhood Italian restaurant on Ninth Avenue between the Hell's Kitchen restaurant district and the theatre district. 

Amarone serves traditional classic Italian dishes and offers a basic modest Italian wine centered winelist. I don't know if it's fallout from the Covid disruptions or what, but even the limited two page wine list, the number of selections actually available was limited to perhaps single digits. 

No less than five of my selections were not available, and I was offered a modest Chianti Classico table wine. That left a handful at best of remaining options, one Ultra-premium Antinori Tignanello, and this Amarone. At least this was a DOCG classified label and was moderately priced - hence the obvious choice. 

For our entrees, two ordered menu pasta selections, and two of us ordered from two daily specials, a pork chop or a veal chop. I opted for the veal chop in a cheese sauce with spinach and roasted potatoes. 

Both dishes were large generous portions in were dramatic artistic presentations, as was the caprese starter, all shown below. 



Salvalai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016

This is from Salvalai, who have been been producing estate wines since 1870 from the grapes grown in the vineyards on the hills overlooking the Verona shore of historic Lake Garda. Salvalai makes wines from the popular Ripasso to the inimitable Amarone, as well as three "Classico" wines of the Verona area (Soave, Bardolino and Valpolicella) .

Salvalai was one of the first wineries in the area to successfully export its wines beyond Italy's borders in the late '60s.

Produced in the classic Valpolicella method and style, this is a blend of the classic traditional grape varieties made up of 70-75% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella and 5% Rossignola e Negrara. 

The grapes are sourced from estate vineyards, the twelve acre Vejo vineyard vines exceed 20 years of age, with distinctive terroir of particular soil and climatic, excellent east-west exposure with natural ventilation provided by the cool breezes coming from the nearby Mount Baldo and a mild climate due to the beneficial influences of Lake Garda.

The twenty five acre Sole Vineyard has rich alluvial soil with great exposure of the vines, located in a narrow valley, the vineyard receives a long and consistent exposure by the sun. 

Only perfectly unblemished and dry clusters are selected for the Amarone blend, harvested 1-2 weeks earlier than those for the Valpolicella wine and subjected to the ancient grape drying practice. They are left to dry in selected well-aired locations, called “fruittai”, to avoid being attacked by mold until the end of January. 

By the end of the drying period, the grapes have lost 30-40% of their weight, and their concentration of sugar, an indispensable element during the following fermentation stage to ensure a noteworthy alcoholic level has increased. Maceration is carried out on contact with the skins for a period of 20-30 days, after drawing off the lees, the product is fermented in steel vats, then matured three years and further aged 12 months in large barrels (Slavonian oak) and 30% in small casks, barriques and tonneaux (French oak), finally, prior to the release, matured for at least 6-8 months in the bottles.

The result is intense, concentrated big round ripe fruit forward wines, an acceptable pairing for our food entrees, but a bit intense, not for the feint of heart.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, sharp intense, concentrated ripe fruits accented by raisin, smoke, notes of creosote and fig with long warm length on the finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901523

http://www.salvalai.it/

http://www.amaroneristorantenyc.com/

Saturday, March 19, 2022

Clos l'Église Côtes de Castillon 2005

Clos l'Église (Côtes de Castillon) Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2005  

We had steak sandwiches with left over grilled ribeye from the other night. I pulled from the cellar this vintage Bordeaux for casual sipping. I featured this producer and label in earlier blogposts when I wrote the following:

The Château Clos L’Eglise estate is owned by Gérard Perse, a French businessman and one-time bicycle champion. Perse sold two supermarket chains to finance his entry into the world of winemaking. He owns several Bordeaux estates, including Château Pavie and Pavie-Decesse. He stopped making wine under the Clos L’Eglise label after the 2008 vintage and since then used the estate’s grapes as part of the blend for his new Esprit de Pavie, a second wine for Pavie. Robert Parker cites that Clos L’Eglise was one of the least expensive wines produced by Gerard Perse.

Clos L’Eglise is a blend of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Similar to previous tasting note, Dark garnet purple colored, medium bodied, aromatic floral, dark berry fruits accented by notes of leather, tobacco, tea and hints of menthol, turning to nice fine grained tannins on the lingering finish. 89 Points 
 
Tonights' tasting was consistent with and similar to previous notes. 

Back in May of 2019 I wrote about this wine,  "Dark garnet purple colored, medium bodied, dark berry fruits accented by notes of leather, tobacco, tea and hints of menthol, turning to nice fine grained tannins on the lingering finish."

RM 88 Points

Stephen Tanzer gave this wine 90-91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=230916
 
Earlier blogposts ... 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/02/clos-leglise-cotes-de-castillon-2005.html 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/05/clos-leglise-cotes-de-castillon-bordeaux.html

Friday, March 18, 2022

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards 'Right Bank' Cuvee

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards 'Right Bank' Cuvee Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2004

Friday night dinner, Linda prepared a Tomahawk Ribeye beefsteak with cheese potatoes and creamed spinach. She frequents the local butcher who invariably has a couple of these in fresh in the meat case and she'll pick them up for sharing. One steak grilled then sliced is easily enough for the two of us and often leaves some left for beefsteak sandwiches in the following days. Its also a dinner that cries for a expressive complex red wine, which results in a food wine pairing exposition. 

I pulled from the cellar an aged Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, aptly named "Right Bank" by the producer in light of its Merlot predominance in the Blend accented by another Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc - 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. 

Oenophiles and Bordeaux enthusiasts know that a Bordeaux Blend will comprise the classic specified Bordeaux varietal grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and perhaps Malbec. 

Those wines produced on the Right Bank of the Gironde River, to the north and east of the slightly diagonally running river, will be predominantly Merlot based, complemented by the remaining varietal (s) in the mix. 

Meanwhile, those wines from the Left Bank, to the - south and west of the river, will be predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with lesser amounts of some combination of the remaining Bordeaux varietals in the Blend.

Hence, at 60% Merlot, this is considered a 'Right Bank' Bordeaux (Blend). Indeed, the rear label cites they produce this wine from the two Bordeaux varietals to be complimentary of those from the most famous Right Bank appellation St Emilion.

This is from Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards a family owned and operated producer founded in 1983 who released their first vintage in 1987. This is not to be confused with Conn Creek Napa Valley labels and brand from St Helena that go back to the 1980. 

Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards produce estate Bordeaux varietal wines from their 40-acre estate located south of Howell Mountain in Conn Valley just over the first lower slope of the Vaca Range that makes up the eastern wall of Napa Valley. They promote that they are just 3 miles or 10 minutes east of downtown St. Helena to invite visitors to their tours. 

Anderson's is run by Todd Anderson who graduated from University of Pacific in Stockton, CA with a degree in Geology before working for a small tech firm in seismic oil and gas exploration. Todd soon joined up with his parents in starting a “small vineyard” in the creation of Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards.

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards 'Right Bank' Cuvee Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2004 

Anderson produces a portfolio of Napa Valley sourced wines, Bordeaux varietals and blends as well as a Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc whites. 

Conn Valley’s Cabernets are made from 100% Estate grown grapes from the vineyards located at the winery site in Conn Valley - from their estate Cabernet Sauvignon, a Reserve, a Cabernet Franc, this Right Bank blend and their flagship super premium Eloge blend label. Their website library notes go back to the 2007 or 08 vintages, post dating this 2004 vintage release. 

Prior to blending and bottling, their wines are aged in the hillside caves located on the Conn Valley Estate.

According to the rear label, winemaker for this release was Mac Sawyer, winemaker since 2000, he sadly passed away in 2012.  Owner, founding winemaker Todd Anderson brought Mac on when they created the ultra-exclusive Ghost Horse Label,

Mac interned at Chateau Cheval Blanc, one of the most famous top rated estates' labels in the world. No doubt that experience formed the inspiration from the wines of Saint-Émilion and at Cheval Blanc, that Todd Anderson and Mac sought to recreate with this Right Bank Cuvee, crafted in the style of Cheval Blanc from Napa Valley fruit. 

The first vintage release of Right Bank Cuvee was in 2001 and was intended to be produced only for the the annual Napa Valley charity fundraising auction Napa Premier.  

The story goes that legendary wine reviewer Robert Parker was on his annual visit to Anderson’s Conn Valley when Todd Anderson agreed to let Parker taste the Right Bank 2001 on the condition that he agreed not to publish any tasting notes. Impressed with the wine, somehow, Parker unintentionally published glowing tasting notes in the Wine Advocate. The ensuing demand for the Right Bank label was so great that Todd agreed to make it part of Anderson’s Conn Valley’s annual portfolio. 

My records show we've had a half dozen vintages of this label that included a mini-vertical dating back to the 2003 release, including at least one vintage in large format magnum.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this 94 points and described it, "Their Napa Valley Cheval Blanc look-alike is called Right Bank, usually a blend of two-thirds Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, although it can change somewhat depending on the vintage. This is a thrilling wine that comes as close as just about any wine in Napa to mimicking a great Right Bank Bordeaux."

At eighteen years, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all in ideal condition. Never-the-less, this seemed to be waning on the back side of its peak drinking window signaling it may be time to drink as it will likely start or continue to decline from here going forward. In 2007, Parker wrote, 'drink it over the next fifteen years (or more)'.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex, black berry, black currant and plum fruits were accented by acidity, floral, smoke, leather, tobacco, hints of menthol with moderate tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=274955

https://www.connvalleyvineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/ConnValley 


Wednesday, March 16, 2022

Cadence Kitchen DG for great food-wine

Cadence Kitchen DG for great food-wine in trendy casual setting

For a casual midweek dinner we dined at Cadence Kitchen in nearby downtown Downers Grove, (IL). Our kids have been there and gave it high marks so we wanted to check it out. Cadence sits in a delightful park like promenade setting in the block-long condo building immediately opposite the DG Metra train stop. 

Cadence Kitchen is bustling with commuters, local foodies and casual diners and offers a well thought out menu of small plates, sandwiches, salads, sides and 'mains' with a respectable appropriate wine list that also includes WBTG - Wines By The Glass, for each food selection. Its trendy bright and airy with sections by the fireplaces that can be cozy and warm.

We started with their signature Crab Beignets, old bay, jumbo lump crab, and for a main course, the Red Wine Braised Short Rib with smoked gouda polenta and roasted root vegetables. We also ordered a side of their creamed spinach. All were delicious and ideally accentuated by our WBTG accompaniments. 

While the wine list was limited, it offers an appropriate selection of varietals, regions and price points. The full bottles tended to be 'restaurant' pricing (2+ times retail price), but the lower more value priced WBTG were carefully selected so as to provide great QPR - Quality Price Ratio offerings. 

Indeed, my red wine Santa Julia Reserva Malbec from Argentina was a fabulous pairing with the Short Rib entree at a great value, such that if I could find it a local merchant I would run out and buy several bottles for every day casual sipping. 

Linda's selection of the Alsatian Pinot Blanc was an ideal pairing with the Crab and the spinach. I write often in these pages about the merit and importance of effectively pairing the right wine with food thereby amplifying the enjoyment of both.

Santa Julia Reserva Valle de Uco Mendoza Malbec 2019

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec 2019 is from Santa Julia estate vineyards in Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina. Valle de Uco is a viticultural region southwest of Mendoza, in Argentina situated along the Tunuyán River and is considered one of the top wine regions in Mendoza, and all of Argentina. 

Their vineyards sit at 1000 to 1400 meters above sea level with deep sandy loam soils and  a cool temperate micro-climate, and in stony soils on the banks of the Tunuyan river.

The combination of cool climate, heterogeneous soils, and altitudes as high as 1400 meters above sea level, and a rich tradition of grape cultivation, make this region a unique and ideal place with distinguishable terroir for producing wines born at the foot of the Andes Mountains. 

The ideal climate and altitude, along with great sun exposure and low temperatures allowing for ideal long growing season produces grapes with that introduce great concentration of flavor, freshness and marked texture in the wines. 

“Who is Santa Julia?” This is one of the very first wines made by the Zuccardi family is named after Julia Zuccardi. Julia is the only daughter of José Zuccardi, current director of Familia Zuccardi. The family has been making wines since her grandfather planted his first vineyards in Mendoza more than 50 years ago. Ever since, Zuccardi have strived to produce wines that express the uniqueness of their place in the region using practices that show respect for the environment. 

Santa Julia Malbec Reserva 2019 was aged in older French Oak barrels over 3 periods of 10 months before final blend. 

This Santa Julia Malbec Reserva 2019 was rated 93 by James Suckling, 90 by Wine Advocate and Vinous gave it 89 points.

Winemaker's notes: "Dark violet and brilliant purple color. Good complexity in the nose with typical Malbec aromas of ripe fruits such as figs, plums, blackberries and marmaledes. Notes of vanilla, tobacco, coffee and chocolate. Full bodied red wine with sweet tannins, good structure and a long finish." Some complexity in a very approachable style, with bright fruit and a tender texture. 800,000 bottles produced.

Dark garnet inky purple colored, medium-to full-bodied, bright expressive plum and red currant fruits with a notes of floral on a layer of moderate chalk and sprites of tangy spice and hints of oak with fine tannins on the moderate lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

 

Sunday, March 13, 2022

Hill Family Estate Napa Cabernet 2018

 Hill Family Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

We were invited over to son Alec and Vivianna's new home to watch March Madness, the Big Ten Basketball tournament as a lead up to the NCAA selection show.

As newlyweds, Alec and Vivianna visited Hill Family Estate during their forest fire shortened honeymoon in Napa a year ago September. They visited the new Hill Family Estate winery, located just minutes south of Yountville just off Ste Helena Highway 29, the western main artery of Napa Valley. They tasted this wine there and acquired it as part of their wine club allocation. 

Doug Hill founded Hill Family estate vineyards back in 1977 when he acquired his first vineyards. Since then, eleven different vineyard locations have been added to the Hill Family Estate portfolio, mostly in Napa Valley and its environs now covering more than 100 acres in numerous significant sub-appellations within Napa Valley.

For nearly four decades, the fruit was sold to the likes of Far Niente Winery, Silver Oak Cellars, Duckhorn Vineyards, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Caymus Vineyards, Cakebread Cellars and a host of other winery luminaries. Hill Family grapes were considered among the finest grown in the prestigious Napa Valley.

Around the turn of the century, Ryan and Carly Hill approached their father with the vision to establish the family winery with the family name on it. Hill Family Estate was born in 2001 with the first fruit that would become Hill Family Estate wines. A total of around 980 cases were produced and released in 2004. The new brand was immediately acclaimed and gained national prominence with numerous Awards and industry plaudits.

Hill Family Estate winemaker Alison Doran joined the team and crafted the inaugural 2001 vintage. Alison was introduced to Doug while he was growing grapes and she was making wine for Lewis Cellars, another one of our benchmark favorite producers, and the other estate visit tasting the kids attended during their shortened honeymoon. Alison developed her skill while being mentored by renowned wine expert Andre Tchelistcheff, completing a degree in winemaking at UC Davis and spending time in the legendary wine region of Alsace, France. Today, Doug and Alison work closely together selecting the highest quality grapes and producing ultra premium wines

Today, the Hill Family owns 120 acres of vineyards with properties on Atlas Peak, in Carneros, Oak Knoll and American Canyon. They are 100% family-farmed, family-owned and family-operated. Production ranges between 9,000 to 12,000 cases annually sourced from 12 different estate vineyards allowing them to select the highest quality fruit for their wines.  

The Hill Family portfolio has grown to over twenty five different labels across the broad range of varietals, blends, and single vineyard designated offerings.  
 
Hill Family Estate opened a tasting facility in downtown Yountville, directly down from the famous French Laundry Restaurant of Chef Thomas Keller and Keller’s Bouchon Restaurant, a classical French bistro also located in Yountville where Ryan Hill was formerly a sommelier. 
 

We've had several Hill Family Estate wines with Alec and Vivianna and I believe this may have been the best label so far. 

We had one of their special limited release premium labels available to Hill Family Diamond Club members that Alec acquired as part of Alec's club allocation during Father's Day Grilled Steak Wine Dinner last year. 
 
Hill Family Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

I believe I liked this label release as well as the best of all those selections, meeting the same rating of their most expensive premium label selection with a similar tasting profile and experience. 
 
This release was blended from fruit from several Hill Family Napa Valley vineyard sources. The high elevation Baker Vineyard up on Atlas Peak at 1,200 ft. providing intense tannins and color, was blended with vineyards from the valley floor and cooler areas - Windy Flats on the western foothills in Wooden Valley, and Beau Terroir is in the Carneros foothills. Also included in the blend was fruit sourced from Beau Terre, Hansen, and Villagio vineyards on the valley floor. Added to the blend was some Malbec and Merlot to add complexity of aromas on the nose along with fruit and oak spice, and finally some Syrah to add density without astringency.

The winemakers's notes for this release: "The 2018 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has aromas of black currant, black cherry, violets, vanilla and pie spice. The palate is rich, with flavors of blackberry, hazelnut, raspberry and mocha. This wine has tremendous viscosity for being so young and has a lot of room to grow and integrate all the flavors."

I found this dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied with bold, full round complex expressive ripe black berry, raspberry and black currant fruits with a layer of soft sweet mocha, with notes of spice, floral and hints of cassis on a lingering tongue puckering tangy acidity silky tannin laced finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3881100

https://hillfamilyestate.com/product/2018-napa-valley-cabernet-sauvignon/ 

https://hillfamilyestate.com/

https://twitter.com/HFEWine

@HFEWine
 


Friday, March 11, 2022

Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

Son Alec (our blue eye'd boy) came over for Friday night dinner with Vivianna, new mom, and new baby daughter/grand-daughter, Marylin. So, we whimsically opened one of our favorite labels, a signature label for son Alec, Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah from Mollydooker, and a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This was in remembrance of our visit to the Rhone wine region together. 

This is one of two of what we consider our signature wines for our son Alec, along with Alec's Blend from Napa Lewis Cellars. 

For the get-together, Linda also picked up some artisan Murray's cheeses from the legendary NYC cheese purveyor. Murray's wine and cheese bistro in Greenwich Village was a favorite eatery with Alec when we visited on numerous occasions during the years he and Viv lived in Manhattan. How ironic or fortuitous that Murray's was acquired by the parent of our local grocer/marketer Marianno's and is now available here locally!

With our wine tasting, Linda served two of our favorite Murray's Cheeses, Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog and Murray's Delice de Bourgogne along with her own pimento cheese spread. 

From Murray's Cheese site: "Humboldt Fog is perhaps the most recognizable American original cheese. Handmade at Cypress Grove's Northern California creamery from local goat's milk and lightly aged, Humboldt Fog boasts a fudgy texture and tangy flavor. The creamline develops into unctuous bliss, and the rind is paper-thin and brimming with minerality. You'll know it's the Fog by the characteristic line of ash running through the center"”creamery founder Mary Keehn's nod to the French classic Morbier"” and by its birthday cake-like shape."

From the Murray's Cheese Blog, "Many people commonly mistake the dark line running through and around Humboldt Fog as blue mold. In fact, it is an edible ash made from vegetables. The fresh curd is pressed half-way into a cheesecloth-lined mold and then the powdered ash is sprinkled on top. The molds are filled the rest of the way with curd and then the outside is generously coated with ash before they begin aging.'

"Cypress Grove’s amazing goat cheeses–Humboldt Fog, with its bright white, cakey paste and gorgeous line of gray ash through the middle tops many people’s Favorite Cheese List–and if you haven’t: get to it. Based in Arcata, California, they’ve been making cheese since the early 1980s. With Mary Keehn at the heart of the operation, the company became one of the country’s foremost artisanal cheesemakers."

As seen in Town and Country Magazine December 2012 

We first discovered Delice de Bourgogne at the French Market in Delray Beach Florida. We were delighted to find it available through cheese purveyor, Murray's. 

"Murray's Delice de Bourgogne is a tribute to small scale industrial French cheese-making, a pasteurized triple creme (75% butterfat in dry matter) that marries full-fat cow milk with fresh cream, producing an unapologetically rich, whipped delight. Unlike many straightforward triple-cremes, this one has a thin, pungent mold rind that imparts straw and mushroom aromas, complementing the buttery yellow, sweet cream interior. Makes a dreamy breakfast, lunch or dessert - just add champagne!" 

While Champagne might have been in order, we had already selected the wines to pair with our dinner - some of our favorites, that we enjoy with almost anything, including these artisan cheeses.

Mollydooker Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah 2013

I pulled this from the cellar at Linda's request as it is one of her favorite labels and winestyles, and was especially appropriate with son Alec joining us for dinner as noted above, it is one of our signature wines we collect and enjoy in tribute to him. 

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis.  I chronicled Mollydooker brand and portfolio in a recent blogpost

As I wrote in that blogpost, the Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

We love this full-throttle shiraz and collect it as part of our Mollydooker portfolio and as part of our Alec collection of labels we keep on hand to toast son Alec. We served an earlier vintage release of this wine at a graduation celebration for Alec back in his college apartment.

Winemaker Notes for this label release - "The delicious berry fruit and spice flavors of the cooler climate wine from the Joppich Vineyard in Langhorne Creek gives the Blue Eyed Boy its crowd appeal. We blend it with McLaren Vale Shiraz to add intensity, vibrancy and richness. This Shiraz is bursting with generous with amounts of fresh plum and blueberry, accompanied by spice and licorice all sorts. Supple texture and a creamy finish features layers of biscuit cream and espresso coffee. A well weighted wine with a truly elegant finish."

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator.

This is a full throttle powerful high octane Shiraz. If you think that is over the top with the superlatives, try this wine. It's sometimes over the top for my liking and I like big bold style wine. Linda actually likes this style. 

Some Cellartrackers talked about using the Mollydooker Shake on this wine. No wonder the producer introduced the Mollydooker 'shake' where they actually prescribe shaking the bottle before opening to awaken or to settle the fruit! We own and drink a lot of their wine and I have never gotten into the habit of doing so, perhaps tonight we should have!

Reading up on the Mollydooker Shake, it is prescribed only for still red wines of two years of age or less. It is to release the nitrogen in the bottle that they use instead of the normal sulphites commonly used to preserve wines.  Sulphites can cause an allergic asthma type reaction in some people and Mollydooker realise a lot of people are sensitive to them. So, wherever they can, they use nitrogen to protect the wine so that they can reduce the amount of sulphites.

Dark blackish garnet purple colored, full bodied, dense, rich, spicy, concentrated blackberry, blueberry and raspberry fruits accented by notes of tar, leather, tobacco and notes of oak. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1897876

I also pulled this Châteauneuf-du-Pape in remembrance of our trip with Alec and Vivianna to the region. 

Domaine Ferrand Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005

We visited Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Alec and Vivianna during our Rhone Southern France region tour in 2019, so I pulled a blend to accompany our Italian beef dinner. 

At seventeen years, this was likely at the apex of its drinking window and profile, not likely to improve with any further aging, but showing no sign of diminution whatsoever. The fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork were all in perfect condition. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 94 points *Highly Recommended* by Wine Spectator.

Classic Châteauneuf du Pape blend of the GSM requisite grape varietals, 94% Grenache and the remainder Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, concentrated blackberry and plum fruits with notes of anise, herbs, tobacco, spice, and a bit of graphite anise with moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=324980

 

 


Thursday, March 10, 2022

Dunham Cellars Trutina Columbia Valley Red 2009

Dunham Cellars Trutina Columbia Valley Red Blend 2009

Friend and Linda's sorority sister Pat R came over with friend Richard and we opened this nice pleasant but serious sipping wine with a medley of cheeses and desserts.

We discovered Dunham Cellars Cabernets on-line with Winebid.com. Having been awakened to the brand, when we saw this label at local merchant Vin Chicago, we grabbed it, tried it, liked it, and went back and bought some more. That was back with the 2009 vintage, and we then purchased the 2010 vintage when it arrived the following year.

At a price point of $25, this provides reasonable QPR - Quality-Price-Ratio when compared with equivalent quality Bordeaux Blends and Cabernets from California and Washington State.  

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate says, "This is the least expensive, yet the richest of the lineup" from Dunham Cellars.

We enjoyed this label during the Covid19 shut-in as we remained at home enjoying intimate dinners and wines from our cellar. I have joked that if such a situation occurred, we'd be stocked for up to year with wines from our cellar, and here we are, albeit hopefully for a couple weeks duration.

We hold close to a dozen vintages in a vertical collection of Dunham Cellars flagship Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine Blend going back to the nineties. We discovered these Bordeaux varietal wines from Columbia River Valley in Washington, not well known for being a Bordeaux varietal region several years back. We stopped by the Dunham Cellars winery and tasting room during our trip to Woodinville, Washington, site of over a hundred tasting rooms of Washington State wines during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour year before last.

We discovered this second label from Dunham at Vin Chicago when they still had their brick and mortar store in Naperville. We bought some, tried it, and went back and bought more. We still hold about a half case and are being rewarded for doing so.

This Trutina Walla Walla Red Blend from our cellar was a perfect compliment to the beef pot roast with grilled asparagus, fresh berries, roasted walnuts and artisan cheese and accompaniments dinner.

Trutina is a second label from Dunham at a lower pricepoint offers great QPR (Quality to Price ratio) in this complex and expressive red wine blend. We continue to find many of the Columbia Valley Reds have great quality and aging ability and offer great value over their French and California counterparts.

Dunham Cellars 'Trutina' Columbia Valley Red Wine 2009

Tonight, this was consistent with our earlier tasting experience which is recorded in these pages from 9/18/2018, while not as complex or polished as the flagship label, Trutina was very impressive going on a decade of age.

This showed bright garnet and inky purple color, medium full bodied with huge aromatics of floral and lavender with full forward bright vibrant flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits with a layer of vanilla and sweet caramel mocha on a full cloying lingering tannin finish.

The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, and 4% Malbec.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1456899 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/09/dunham-cellars-trutina-columbia-valley.html

https://www.dunhamcellars.com/


Tuesday, March 8, 2022

Team dinner at Italian Village Chicago

Team dinner at Italian Village Chicago - new menu specials and new wine (s)

Holocene Memorialis Pinot Noir and Soffocone di Vincigliata Toscana Sangiovese

With key staffers in town for meetings and a workshop, we dined at our regular customary dinesite, Italian Village, Chicago

Collaborating with Wine Director, Jared Gelband, we selected a traditional Italian Tuscan Sangiovese, and for a change, a new release Oregon Pinot Noir from Pacific Northwest winemaker Todd Alexander

We hosted Todd Alexander and wife and partner Carrie at Italian Village during their release promotion tour visit to Chicago back in 2016, and introduced them to our friend and Wine Director, Jared Gelband

Jared was impressed with Todd's 'artwork' and selected several of his labels to feature on the extensive award winning winelist

Jared continues to carry Todd's labels on the extraordinary Italian Village winelist, which is primarily Italian, including this recent release of Todd and Carrie's new Holocene brand. 


Holocene Memorialis Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton) 2018

This is the fourth vintage for this Pinot Noir project from Todd Alexander, winemaker at Force Majeure. The first vintage was 2015, released in early 2017. It's a single-vineyard cuvée (vineyard unidentified) from the MonksGate vineyard in the Yamhill Carlton AVA in the Willamette Valley Oregon. 

Todd moved to Washington from Napa Valley where he crafting wines for ultra-premium producer  Bryant Family Vineyards. Today he is winemaker for Force Majeure in Walla Walla and have recently released his own brands Paxsa and this Holocene. 

This is another project of Todd Alexander, who moved to Washington from California (he worked at Bryant Family Vineyards from 2010 to 2014 and was responsible for vinifying the 2012 and 2013 wines) to take over winemaking at Force Majeure and launched this project to make Pinot Noir from Oregon fruit.

Todd partners with a few very small, diverse and amazing vineyards in the Willamette Valley, sourcing fruit from these dry-farmed sites that emphasize low yields, sustainable practices and produce outstanding fruit. 

Says Todd, "Everyone knows that the Willamette Valley is an amazing place to grow Pinot Noir. When I relocated from Napa Valley to partner up with Force Majeure Vineyards, I knew I also wanted to start a project where I could focus attention on a varietal and growing region that I loved. Part of the excitement of being in the Pacific Northwest is the ability to have access to so many amazing vineyards and so much diversity, along with the opportunity to push boundaries and try new things."  

Todd has developed a reputation for crafting much heralded, highly regarded wines that reflect their "real sense of place" through minimal manipulation, 'utilizing very low-impact, non-industrial techniques, native yeasts, little extraction and little new oak, and never filtering or fining'. 

So, it was only fitting that when Jared received and offered from his allocation this small limited production release from Todd, we were compelled to try it with our dinner. 

Ravioli Di Costata Corta Brasata
This was a perfect complement to our ravioli stuffed with short rib dinner special, a new offering on the IV menu - Ravioli Di Costata Corta Brasata - pasta stuffed with short rib, parmesan and ricotta cheese, mirepox in a red wine demi glaze. 

Readers of this site know I am not a big Pinot drinker, opting more for Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. Never-the-less, the fun of wine is trying new labels, varietals, regions and producers. 

I loved this wine which exceeded my expectations and sets a new benchmark for me for Oregon Pinots going forward. I am a member of their club (s) and regularly take my allocation of their other labels, but immediately signed up to get on the list for this label release (which is naturally sold out) when it becomes available in the future. 

This label release was awarded 93-95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Vinous.This is from the 2018 Oregon vintage that was a warmer than average year, sourced from a west-facing hillside of sedimentary soils located in the heart of the Willamette Valley (not far from Beaux Freres and Shea Vineyard). This is 100% Pinot Noir that was 20% destemmed and brought up in 20% French oak, 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, elegant and seductively textured and structured, perfectly balanced and integrated raspberry and strawberry fruits, with notes of floral, herbs, hints of sweet milk chocolate, white pepper and spice, with a silky smooth lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3642047

 
 

Bibi Graetz Soffocone di Vincigliata Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend 2016

For our second wine, we ordered from the winelist this Tuscan Sangiovese Blend

This is from well known producer Bibi Graetz, who, since his first release back in 2000, has developed a reputation as one of Italy's most ingenious winemakers. He produces a broad portfolio of wines including popular labels Testamatta and Colore which have earned him almost cult status to many Italian wine aficionados. 

Born and raised in Italy, Bibi makes his wine in his family home, Castello di Vincigliata, a medieval castle which stands on a rocky hill to the east of the village of Fiesole overlooking Florence in the Italian region of Tuscany.  

Bibi inherited the ancient historic castle acquired by his parents over 60 years ago. Surrounded by vines, he set out to teach himself winemaking from grapes initially from the small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole, but expanded and grew to bringing in grapes contracted from other growers around the region. Through sourcing arrangements with growers from parcels of old vines around Tuscany, Bibi had full control of style and crafting of his wines. 

This label, Soffocone di Vincigliata, is the only wine named by a specific designated vineyard of production, punctuating the special link between this wine and the hill where Bibi Graetz started his project. The beautiful vineyard of Vincigliata in Fiesole overlooks Firenze with one of the most romantic view of the city, from which Bibi took inspiration for the name and the unique label.

In the vein of Super Tuscans, but a little on the more elegant side, this wine is structured, complex and sophisticated. Sourced from 40 year-old vines it is primarily Sangiovese, 90%, but also blended with grape varieties Canaiolo Nero, 7% and 3% Colorino. It is fermented in stainless steel followed by aging in French barrels for 15 months and finished in bottle for 6 months.

 
RM 89 points.  

https://www.bibigraetz.com/it/index.php

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/wine-cellar/

https://twitter.com/italianvlg

https://twitter.com/jzgwine


 

 

 

Saturday, February 26, 2022

OTBN 2022 Charleston

Change of venue - rhythm as Pour Boys OTBN 2022 moves to Charleston

Our Pour Boys wine group convened for our annual homage to the vinous vinifera in the ritual that has come to be known as OTBN – Open That Bottle Night. In planning this year’s event, wisdom prevailed and we chose to adjust our rhythm and head south for the mid-winter event vs hosting the event in Chicago. We’ll then pivot to host the summer event, that we held last year in Florida, in Chicago, to align with the seasons.

In that regard, Bill and Beth C hosted OTBN at their home in Seabrook Island, SC. In the custom and spirit of OTBN, we Pour Boys, pull from our cellar collections bottles that we had been holding for a special occasion, whose time had not yet come. 

Alas, since 2000, OTBN – Open That Bottle (To) Night is for gathering and enjoying such bottles on the last Saturday night in February. 

We kicked off this years' OTBN 2022 Gala Weekend with tasting and dinner at Forty-Eight Wine Bar dinner last night at 48 Wine Bar

For the gala weekend, I selected and took from our cellar four vintage Cabernets, from select birthyears, or designated select producers, or single vineyards, and a twenty year old dessert wine from our cellar collection.

As I wrote in my blogpost of last night's OTBN 22 Kick-off dinner at 48 Wine Bar,  our Pour Boys wine group convened for our annual homage to the vinous vinifera in the ritual that has come to be known as OTBN – Open That Bottle Night. In planning this year’s event, wisdom prevailed and we chose to adjust our rhythm and head south for the mid-winter event vs hosting the event in Chicago. We’ll then pivot to host the summer event, that we held last year in Florida, in Chicago, to align with the seasons. 


In that regard, Bill and Beth C graciously opened their home and hosted OTBN at their home in Seabrook Island, SC. In the custom and spirit of OTBN, we Pour Boys, pull from our cellar collections bottles that we had been holding for a special occasion, whose time had not yet come.

Since we traveled to what became a weekend getaway, our usual annual one-night dinner affair became a weekend of three tasting sessions.  

Last night, we kicked off the weekend with a perfect wine focused Kick-off dinner at 48 Wine Bar in Freshfields Village Kiawah, Island

Tonight, the last Saturday night in February is the customary anniversary date for this annual event. 

Our hosts, Bill and Beth, prepared a beef tenderloin dinner with twice baked potatoes, haricut verts, and Gloria's brussel sprouts and Dan's shrimp scampi.

Everyone brought a couple or several bottles for sharing during the weekend. As a result we had selected fourteen bottles to open and serve with the Saturday night dinner - two champagnes, ten reds, a port and a dessert wine. 

For the red wines, there was one Burgundy, one Argentinian red blend, seven Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons and a vintage port.


For the gala weekend, I selected four vintage Cabernets, from select birthyears, or designated select producers, or single vineyards, and a twenty year old dessert wine from our cellar collection.

We opened with a selection of artisan cheeses. 

For the initial courses, we had two vintage Champagnes - Bill opened a Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs Champagne 2000, and Dan opened a Louis Roederer Cristal Vintage Champagne 2007

Dan prepared a sauteed shrimp scampi course that was complemented perfectly with these champagnes. 

As is the custom and in the spirit of OTBN - there were no rules or theme - bring a special bottle that has been waiting to be consumed. Hence we had some old and some new - a good mix for the adventurous old guys who are intrigued by an aged vintage label, and more youthful easier drinking more recent release wines. 

We opened a couple of the young big bold reds for the ladies to enjoy - and for the men too, of course, while at the same time, opening some of the 'suspect' wines to check out for appropriate placement in the tasting flight order. 

The order in which wines are tasted in a tasting flight is important to optimize the ability to discriminate between the wines and to maximize the enjoyment and appreciation of the wines. Each tasting of a set of diverse wines, we go through this ritual to taste each wine to determine its suitable sequence. Always start with the lighter and simpler wines first. A heavier or heartier wine will overpower lesser wines and you'll lose all sense of discrimination or calibration for them.

After the Champagnes, we pivoted to the red wines flight with the sole Burgundy (Pinot Noir), opening with a Louis Latour Romanee-Saint-Vivent Les Quatre Journaux Borgogne brought by Dan from his cellar. 

Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru "Les Quatre Journaux" 2003

The Latour family has been proprietors of a part of Romanée-Saint-Vivant since December 1898. "Les Quatre Journaux" is a magnificent plot of land situated at the South-West of Romanée Saint Vivant, a few meters from the legendary Romanée-Conti vineyard. Romanee Saint Vivant is separated into two parcels, Clos des Quatre Journaux and the northern plot. Louis Latour has the prime plot of Romanee St Vivant, a 0.8ha plot right below Romanee Conti.

A "Journal" is an old Burgundian measurement corresponding to approximately 0.4 hectares (34,28 ares). Even though the Latours' initial purchase carried the entirety of the plot, half of it was sold some years later. Today Maison Louis Latour owns 0.8 hectares of Romanée-Saint-Vivant. It producers a marvelously aromatic wine, with a velvety texture which culminates in a persistent and powerful finish in the mouth. It is one of the greatest red wines from the region. From the Region is Côte de Nuits, the Village Vosne-Romanée, in the Appellation Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru. As is the custom and specified varietal for the locale, the grape variety Pinot Noir.

Winemakers' tasting note - "This wine of great complexity reveals a superb spicy nose, expressing notes of liquorice, violet and red fruits. The amplitude of this wine unfolds on the palate highlighting its elegance and aromatic persistence. A harmonious wine combining soft tannins and a great earthiness."

At twenty years this is likely at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve with further aging, but capable of being at prime drinking for another decade or more. 

This label release was awarded 93 points by Allen Meadows - Burghoun, and 91 points by Wine Spectator who wrote "Lovely ripe black cherry and plum aromas and flavors mark this pure, silky red. It's very elegant, not that concentrated, but shows fine balance and length."

The Cellartracker average rating was 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=385354

https://www.louislatour.com/en/wines/107/romanee-saint-vivant-grand-cru-les-quatre-journaux/2003

Dalle Valle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

I obtained a couple of these bottles years ago on release in anticipation of the vintage being significant for a celebration at some point. Indeed, this is fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth’s son’s birthyear vintage. So, we have been holding several 1989 vintage labels expecting at some point we would open and share them together. Once again, this weekend, in the spirit and custom of OTBN, being hosted by Bill and Beth, I pulled two 1989 vintage bottles to share and enjoy. 

This turned out to be a bust - the disappointment of the evening/weekend. Perhaps it was due to bottle variation, or a bottle that had at some point been mishandled or tainted. Or, the wine was simply beyond its acceptable drinking window. We have another bottle of the same label from the same release which may determine whether this was or wasn't an anomaly. 

The next bottle was from the same varietal, region and vintage, and it was extraordinary. 

Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

Bill and we are both collectors of the Freemark Abbey portfolio of wines dating back several decades. Over the years, Bill has tended to acquired this single vineyard designated label from the Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard, while I tended to acquired their Bosche Vineyard label. So, it was fitting that for OTBN, hosted by Bill and Beth, that I bring this Sycamore Vineyard 1989 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This was also relevant as it a birthyear vintage wine for their son, Matt.

We’ve enjoyed many vintages of this label together over the years including an earlier tasting together, the post repeated below. We've visited the winery together on several occasions including a library cellar tour back in 2009.

Primary Vineyard: Sycamore Vineyard—Rutherford (100%): Small 24-acre vineyard located about 1.2 miles south of Bosche, right up against the Mayacamas Range, this vineyard has a rich clay loam. Sycamore Vineyard produces small berries reminiscent of mountain fruit berries, with intense extract of color and flavor. The color is very dark early in the fermentation, with flavors of black currant and black berry with a forest floor complexity.

Winemaker's notes - "The nose opens with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black current and boysenberry.  The fruit elements are complimented with notes of forest floor, cigar box, dark chocolate and espresso.  The wine is rich and balanced and French oak barrels add the ideal amount of complexity with notes of baking spice and warm vanilla.  This is a full-bodied wine with integrated tannins that give it a long, lingering finish.  Stunning. Life span in a proper cellar 20-30 years."

This is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

This was in remarkable, perfect condition - by every measure - the fill level, tissue, label, foil, and importantly, the cork - were all in best possible, near perfect condition. 

My winesite postings of previous tastings of this label, pre-this blog - the previous tasting was also with Bill and Beth when we did a mini-vertical of three vintages of this label with two of their son's.

Jan 21, 2006 - Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 and 1997; 1989 - From Rick's cellar - RM 88 - Full firm - dark berry and black cherry fruit, earthy and slight wood flavor. 1997 From Bill's cellar - RM 91 - Full bodied and firm but nicely balanced, still slightly closed, full dark berry fruit, hint of currant and cherry with smooth tannins. Tasted w/ Bill & Beth C, w/ Drew, Matt and L with fabulous beef tenderloin dinner.

Nov 23, 2004 - Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 - WS 88 RM 87 WS Review says it well - Dark, firm and structured, with more richness, depth and flavor than the Bosché Vineyard. Shows off mature spice, currant, cedar and cherry flavors that are long and complex. Impressive.--1989 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now. 3,050 cases made. (JL)

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27548

The current release 2017, producer's page for this label:

https://www.freemarkabbey.com/wine/rutherford/sycamore-vineyard-cabernet-sauvignon

The blend for this label is typically about 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Merlot (2017 vintage example).

Another one of my contributions - another Napa Cabernet, since Bill and I are both fans and worshippers of the famous Tokalon Beskstoffer Vineyard in Napa Valley. 

Indeed, we’ve collected, and consumed numerous vineyard designated wines sourced from this legendary site. Moreover, Bill and Beth have had the pleasure of staying on the property in a residence of one of their son’ Will’s colleagues. So, I pulled this special label to share and enjoy with them as part of this year’s OTBN celebration.

Delectus Tokalon Beckstoffer Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Beckstoffer’s Georges III vineyard has a long and storied history.  Records show that grapes were first planted here in 1895 by Napa Valley Pioneer Thomas Rutherford, Mrs. Thomas Rutherford was  granddaughter of Napa Valley’s pioneering vigneron George C. Yount.  

In 1928, the 300-acre parcel was purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour, becoming the source of the legendary Rutherford Cabernets made by Beaulieu’s famous winemaker André Tchelistcheff.  These BV Rutherford Cabernets achieved wide acclaim beginning in the 1940s and established Beaulieu Vineyard’s pre-eminence in the making of fine, world-class Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Beckstoffer Vineyards owns and farms more than 3,600 acres of highly prestigious grape growing vineyards in Napa Valley, Mendocino County and the Red Hills of Lake County. A senior executive with Heublein in the 1960s, Andy Beckstoffer is credited with steering Napa Valley vintners towards improving farming and the quality of the grapes used for wine. Grapes from any Beckstoffer vineyards are considered among the finest available in California.

Beckstoffer Vineyards purchased the site in 1988 and meticulously replanted it with new Cabernet Sauvignon clones, using tighter vine spacing and advanced trellising systems to enhance both fruit quality and quantity.  
 
Today, the Beckstoffer vineyard has a plantable area of 251 acres, its vines growing in prime ‘Rutherford dust’ – the gravelly, loamy soils derived from the alluvial sandstone bedrock that is the hallmark of this part of Napa Valley.  Lying low on the valley floor, Georges III vineyard benefits from the Rutherford Bench, a strip of land near Napa River and Conn Creek where pockets of clay beneath the old creek-bed soils giving the vines better water access. Combined with excellent western exposure and the cooling morning mists, fruit ripens slowly and steadily here, producing grapes of immense finesse and character. 
 
Delectus produce limited small quantity wines handcrafted from select vineyards throughout Napa Valley. They focus on Bordeaux reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot and strive to produce wines that are balanced, distinctive and age-worthy.  Over the years they have received high scores and praise from wine critics. They pride themselves in producing 'bold and assertive, expressive red wines that never compromise the art of winemaking'. 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote, "The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard George III is a complex offering, exhibiting spice box, cedar, coffee bean, and black currants in its medium to full-bodied, ripe yet soft, fleshy personality." 

This was holding its own at 25 years, showing no diminution from age, probably at peak now and should hold for a couple more years, but not likley to improve further. The fill level, label, foil and ork were all in ideal condition for their age. Time to drink - an classic OTBN selection.

The bottle was packaged with the dipped wax capsule which was rather rare back in those days, used by Randy Dunn's Howell Mountain Cab, which we also opened tonight, but few others.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits with earthy leather, tobacco and licorice with tangy acidity on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=61878

 https://www.delectuswinery.com/

Bob brought two very interesting bottles - a unique blend from Argentina, Vistalba, and a ultrapremium surprise label from Napa Valley - Beau Vigne Juliet.

Bodega Vistalba Corte A Rare Red Blend 2016 

Bob and Gloria came in from Delray Beach for the wine weekend. 

Bob brought this bottle back from a trip to the region - a gift from his colleague there, who said it was one of his favorites. 

This is from the Finca Vistalba High Mendoza river basin, in the Luján de Cuyo region in Mendoza, Argentina. Vistalba’s vineyards, planted in 1948, sit at an impressive 980 metres above sea level where conditions are ideal for producing smooth, well-rounded reds thanks to the sunny days and cooler nights. The terroir is well-drained silt loam soil with medium to low fertility and low content of organic material, with climate of harsh winters and warm summers with mild or warm days and very cold nights. The broad daily temperature range (15°C/59°F) to which vines are exposed during their vegetative growth favors color development and tannin production.

This is a unique blend of 54% Malbec, 30% Bonarda and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon.  

None of us had ever heard of or experienced Bonarda. It apparently added a layer of sweetness to blend.

Bonarda from Argentina is not the same wine as Italian Bonarda. It is actually from France where is known as Charbono, identical to a grape found in old vineyards in Napa, also under the name Charbono. Argentina’s Bonarda is actually a grape called Douce Noir (“doose nwar”). 

Bonarda wines from Argentina are very fruity on the nose, with notes of black cherry compote, fresh blueberry, and plum. They can be complex, giving off nuanced aromas of violets, 5-spice, allspice, and peonies. They may have slight smoky notes of cigar box, sweet figs, and chocolate. 

Bonarda is known to add fruitiness, a medium-body, juicy acidity, and a smooth, low-tannin finish. It is said to taste like an exotic Merlot and it’s just as easy to drink. Hence, it is fitting that it is included in a Bordeaux varietal blend.

The 2016 Vintage was rated 89 points by Wine Enthusiast. "Tarry black fruit and black olive aromas include barrel spice, graphite and gritty notes. On the palate, this Malbec blend feels lively but raw and grating, likely a reflection of 2016's rainy conditions. Salty berry flavors are fully oaked, while this feels tannic and grabby on a finish that tastes saucy and savory."

This was aged 20% on french oak for 18 months and stored in the bottle for 6 months before being released to the market. 

Winemaker notes: "Inky purple color with a dark core. Aromas of mineral violets asian spices and assorted black and blue fruits set the stage for a dense structured savory and impeccably balanced wine that will benefit from another 3-4 years of cellaring to reveal its full potential." – Bodega Vistalba

This was packaged in a large heavy oversized bottle, almost akin to a magnum. I show it next to the Beau Vigne, packaged in a 'regualar' standard sized 750 bottle.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, concentrated firm structured but slightly austere blackberry and black raspberry fruits were accented by earthy spice and cigar box with tangy acidity. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3274601

http://www.bodegavistalba.com

https://twitter.com/BodegaVistalba

Beau Vigne "Juliet" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Bob found this bottle at the Total Wine beverage superstore at Boca Towne Centre in Boco Raton and picked it up for our gathering. Not only was this undiscovered label the surprise of the evening, for me, it was the WOTN - Wine of the Night

This is from winemaker producer Julien Fayard, one of Napa Valley’s most respected winemakers with more than two decades of winemaking expertise. Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. 

In Bordeaux, he worked at Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite before relocating to Napa Valley where he became Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before launching his own projects.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis.

Julien Fayard is producing California varietals with French finesse - wines that express their terroir, highlighting the specificities and characteristics of the fruit, vineyard management, soil and climate. He has developed a track record of building brands both in terms of quality and market presence.

Fayard's wines represent the power and depth of mountain fruit grown 1,400 ft above Napa Valley from their prized estate vineyard atop Atlas Peak. The rugged vineyard sits above the fog line on the western slopes of the Vaca Mountains and stretches to 2,500 feet in elevation. Influenced by the mountains, temperatures average 10 degrees cooler than in the Stags Leap District below. The volcanic soil characterizes the uniqueness of this crafted wine with impressive texture and density and that is as lush in style.

He produces a portfolio of ultra-premium red blends, with bold and luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, and rounded out with a prestigious group of Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay sourced from the region’s top vineyards.

His small boutique winery 'flies under the radar as a “hidden gem”' producing only a few thousand cases a year. Famed critic Robert Parker refers to Fayard as “one of my favorite wineries.” They operate a tasting room in downtown Yountville .

The 2018 Signature Series Juliet Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Atlas Peak, 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2%  Petit Verdot.

Winemaker Notes: "2018 was a dream growing season and harvest for Napa Valley. An abundance of rain in February was followed by continuous days of sunshine and mild temperatures that made for uniform vines and even cluster growth. Cooler temperatures allowed us to pick when we wanted, without stress and under optimal conditions. The gift from Mother Nature translated to wines that not only have great concentration but also an amazing freshness.'

"ON THE NOSE:  Boysenberries, kirsch, dark chocolates, blueberries, granular rock'

"ON THE PALATE: Savory blackberry fruit, maraschino cherry, fennel, graphite"

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this label 93+/100 Points.
 
This delicious easy sipping round fuit filled wine was a favorite of the ladies, and me too!

Deep garnet-purple colored, full bodied, black berry and black currant frutis with notes of crème de cassis, tapenade, cedar and dark chocolate and hints of cedar with firm but smooth silky tannins on the bright finish. 
 
RM 94 points. 
 

We continued the dinner with three more Napa Cabernets ..

Ghost Block Estate Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Lyle brought this recent release Oakville Cabernet - like the Beau Vigne, another ideal selection for 'instant gratification', early enjoyment in its youth for delectable pleasureable sipping for the ladies, and for the men alike. This was another previously unknown producer/label, yet one with an extensive history and deep roots in Napa Valley, that was an immense hit for the evening, enjoyed by all!

This is produced by the Pelissa family whose legacy is unique to Napa Valley and rare in the modern day California wine industry. It began in 1902 when Joseph Pelissa came to Napa Valley from Liguria, Italy and purchased 35 acres of land with a single gold coin in 1903. His son Andrew later took over, building successful dairy and trucking businesses and eventually acquiring 1000 acres in Oakville and Yountville where he planted wine grapes and other crops. Andrew was civic-minded and an early champion of keeping Napa Valley agricultural, and was instrumental in establishing Napa Valley’s Agricultural Preserve Zone. 

Today, the Pelissa grape-growing operation continues to be family-owned and run, overseen by 4thand 5thgeneration family members who live on and farm the land. Since planting their first grapes, the family has supplied fruit to some of the most prestigious wineries in Napa Valley from its 635 acres in ten different estate vineyards.

Not until 2006, over 100 years after Joseph Pelissa came to Napa Valley, Pelissa family created their own wines from the grapes they grew. Ghost Block Estate Wines was established, comprised of three separate brands that showcase the family vineyards that they farm, based on their deep roots in Napa Valley history.

This was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.

Wine Spectator - Oakville, Napa, California - "Very lush, with warmed plum sauce, cassis and linzer torte flavors gliding through slowly, but persistently...Stays on the dark side of the spectrum, with a flash of espresso crema flickering at the end amid the exotic fruit." 

Garnet colored, full bodied, bright, big, bold, concentrated ripe blackberry and black raspberry bramble fruit with notes of licorice and cedar. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3593250

https://www.ghostblockwine.com/

For the more adventurous, we opened these aged vintage Napa cabernets...

Chanticleer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Lyle also brought this vintage premium Yountville Napa Cab that he received from a business associate several years ago. He has held this bottle in his cellar for a decade and admitted he hated to pull it as the bright colorful label looked good prominently displayed on its cellar display rack. 

Chanticleer, a boutique winery, produces four premium wines incorporating the Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes grown in the 8 1/2 acre vineyard in Yountville in Napa Valley. 

Founder producer George Grodahl spent his career in the computer industry in sales, as an entrepreneur and as an investment banker until 1991 when he took early retirement.

In 1994 he and his wife Caddy purchased 40 acres in the hills of Yountville, in the heart of Napa Valley. The hillside location with well-drained, rocky soils, was ideally suited to grow grapes for great wines. Initially they sold all of their grapes to local wineries for use in their winemaking. 

George began to make wine as a hobby, making a small amount that grew to fifty cases, not for resale, but produced for friends and family only.

Every year the wine got better and in 1998 he teamed up with promising young winemaker, Chris Dearden, to produce Chanticleer wine. Caddy and George formed a partnership in 2000 with winemaker Chris Dearden, owner of Dearden Wines. 

Chris studied Enology at UC Davis and wrote his own major in Winery Operations and Management. He worked at Schramsberg and got his first winemaking job at William Hill Winery. He became the winemaker at a small Carneros winery, Mont St. John, then became a winemaker for Heublein's Fine Wine Group, which included Christian Brothers, Beaulieu and Inglenook. In 1996 he became General Manager and Winemaker at Benessere Winery where he worked for fourteen years. 

The first Chanticleer vintage was released in May, 2003, a Super Tuscan style (blend of Cabernet and some Sangiovese) 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon. A total of 122 cases were released, a blend of 82% Cabernet and 18% Sangiovese. The wine received high praise from its consumers, most was sold direct with some sold to a few restaurants and retailers; it sold out in two months.

The second Chanticleer vintage of 250 cases of the 2001 Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon, was released in August, 2004 and was sold out by mid September. This release blended 17% Sangiovese with 83% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was very well received by its clients, mainly repeat buyers with a few new commercial establishments.

Each successive vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Super Tuscan sold out well before the next release became available. Today, they produce about 500 cases per year, 200 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, 100 of Sangiovese and 200 Cases of their premium flagship blend, Riserva - all allocated to existing clients due to demand. 

In 2020 George sold Chanticleer to Deepak Gulrajani, the winemaker and owner of Nicholson Ranch winery, known for producing excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chanticleer varietals of Cabernet and Sangiovese were a chance to expand the portfolio. 

The name Chantecleer was taken from England's The Pilgrims Way, made famous in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. The stories emanated near their property where George and Caddy Grodahl lived in southern England in Westerham, Kent in the early 1970’s. 

They named their winery in Napa Chanticleer based on the Canterbury tale of Reynard the Fox. Chantecler, which means rooster, is a compound word from chanter (to sing) and cler (clear), and thus literally means clear singer, was a character in the Chaucer Canterbury Tale, Nun's Priest's Tale.

Current owner and winemaker Deepak Gulrajani was born in Mumbai, India, and came to California for a job in the computer business in 1988. He began his winemaking career in his garage making home-made wines in the early 1990s. He planted Nicholson Ranch vineyards in 1995 and has been winemaker for Nicholson Ranch since 2009.  

Chanticleer produce 3 Estate wines in the Super Tuscan style;  Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon, Chanticleer Riserva and Chanticleer Sangiovese. Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily a Cabernet with typically greater than 90% Cabernet Grapes and only a small quantity of Sangiovese blended in. The Sangiovese softens the wine and adds fruit to the blend.  With typically less than 10%  Sangiovese in the blend this little bit gives lift, complexity, and a sense of finesse to this  powerful wine.

Garnet colored, medium - full bodied, bright full round black fruits with notes of tobacco, earth and smoke with a soft moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1599365

https://www.chanticleerwine.com/ 

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Bill opened this magnum from his cellar.  This legendary wine from legendary Napa winemaker Randy Dunn, is known to be long lived. At eighteen years, it was probably at its peak, yet with a decade or more left in its prime tasting window, especially in the large format bottle. 

Dunn Vineyards' 64 acres of land, are planted to 42 acres of vineyards in rural upper Howell Mountain. Dunn’s flagship Howell Mountain label is a classic reflection of its terroir - red-stony soil, mixed with volcanic ash, high above the famous Napa Valley fog at 1,400 feet elevation, the vineyards see sunshine each day and the heat tends to be more moderate. 

Dunn’s flagship is produced from 100% mountain grown Cabernet Sauvignon, and is a true expression of the Howell Mountain appellation, tannic, bold, huge, dense and massively structured that demands aging.

This was ideally suited for pairing with the beef tenderloin main entree course. 

Dunn is one of the most extensive holdings in our cellar, spanning three decades. We visited Randy Dunn at his hilltop estate on Howell Mountain back in 2008

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points Vinousand 90 points by Connoisseurs Guide.

Classic Dunn Howell Mountain profile, dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated, structured powerful black berry and black raspberry fruits with clove spice, cassis, bitter chocolate and oak, hints of leather and pipe tobacco with fine-grained lingering tannins on the long finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224195

https://www.dunnvineyards.com/


Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000

Lyle has customarily brought a Vintage Port to our wine dinners and for this year, he brought a 2000 vintage release from Smith Woodhouse.

The 2000 vintage release for ports was one of the smallest vintages for many years. The more limited production showed great power, immense color and strong tannins. 

This wine displayed complex layers of ripe fruit that was probably at its peek at two decades, yet will likely age gracefully for another decade. 

This was rated 93 (2021) points and 95 (2003) points by Wine Spectator.

This is great with the steak entree but best suited and ideal with the chocolate cake dessert. 

Last year, in 2021, Wine Spectator wrote, "This one is ready to go, with soft-edged plum sauce, blackberry compote and fig paste flavors that drape easily against a backdrop of cinnamon raisin toast and melted licorice notes. A flattering Port that's at peak now. (JM, Web-2021)". 

In 2003, Wine Spectator wrote, "This is the Greatest young Vintage Port of Smith Woodhouse I have ever tasted."

Garnet colored, full bodied, sweet bright blackberry fruits with a layer of cinnamon, licorice and hints of creosote, with smooth, fine tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=112108

Kracher Burgenland #9 Nouvelle Vague Trockenberenauslese Chardonnay 2002

As Lyle brings Vintage Ports, I tend to bring sweet 'sticky' dessert wines to our dinners. 

I hold more than a dozen labels and vintages spanning more than two decades of Kracher premium dessert wines. I enjoy serving them for special occasion dinners with fellow eoephiles that appreciate the label. For this weekend, I brought a twenty year old Austrian Kracher TBA - Trochenbereenauslese. 

Trockenbeerenauslese is the highest in sugar content in the category of Austrian and German wine classifications. Trockenbeerenauslese wines, called "TBA" for short, are made from individually selected grapes affected by noble rot (i.e., botrytized grapes).

This means that the grapes have been left on the vine to ripen to the point that they gain a high sugar content, individually picked and are shrivelled with noble rot, often to the point of appearing like a raisin. They are therefore very sweet and have an intensely rich flavor, frequently with a lot of caramel and honey bouquet, stone fruit notes such as apricot, and distinctive aroma of the noble rot.

 Trockenbeerenauslese means literally "dry berry selection." This very sweet dessert wine is made from individually selected shriveled grapes that have the highest sugar levels with flavors concentrated further by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. Trockenbeerenauslesen rank among the greatest sweet wines in the world.

These long lived wines can last multiple decades or more. At twenty years, this was likely at its peak, not likely to improve further with any more aging. Its fun to watch these wines darken as they age. Upon release, they are light straw colored. As they age they darken to butter colored, light weak tea colored, and eventually, like tonight, maple syrup colored, and finally blackish almost coffee colored. 

These are sipping wines, not drinking wines, delightful for casual sipping with salad, cheeses or desserts. 

Tonight, this was similar to the last tasting note that I posted for this label back in 2013 when I wrote: "Like other Krachers, this one exhibits honey color and is full bodied, thick and chewy - compared to other Krachers, this one has an essence of honey moreso than fruit flavors, still flavorful with a hint of apricot and hasn't given way to more neutral smoke and nut flavors that sometimes set in as the fruit diminishes ..."

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=50502

Preparing for the flight ... research and planning the attack ... 


 After dinner ... Beth, the career vocalist and music teacher set out playing the piano and a serious sing-along broke out .. a new OTBN tradition in the making? 



As is customary ... here 's a compendium of our previous Pour Boy's OTBN galas. 

Pour Boys' OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night