French Wine Dinner at Chez Joel Chicago

French Wine Dinner at Chez Joël Bistro Francais Chicago

We met fellow Pour Boys Dan with Linda and Lyle with Terry at one of our favorite eateries in Chicago, French Bistro Chez Joel on Taylor Street, in what used to be known as Little Italy, near the Medical district, just south of the UIC Campus.

A passing summer rain burst almost disrupted our plans to dine on the outdoor patio but we pushed back our dinner but 1/2 hour and the skies cleared for a delightful evening. 

All our entrees were wonderful, tastfully and artfully prepared and presented. I had the Seared Duck Breast & Leg Confit, one of the best I have had anywhere, Dan and Lyle the Fresh Fish Special of the Day, Brook Trout, which resembled grilled Salmon, and the ladies all had the filets of beef. 

Prior to dinner we had appetizers of the Duck Liver Pâté, Frog Legs, Beet Salad and the Escargot. 

 

Chez Joel Filet of Beef

Chez Joel Duck Confit

Chez Joel Brook Trout

We ordered from the thoughtfully and carefully selected winelist a selection of French wines starting with Chateau Mangot Bordeaux. I followed with a Crozes-Hermitage and then a Brane Cantenac Margaux. For the dessert course I ordered a Sauterne while Dan and Lyle had a Tawny Port. 

 Interesting that on our previous visit to Chez Joel, back in pre-covid 2019, we ordered these same two wines, the Crozes-Hermitage and the Mangot, which we also had on an earlier visit there back in 2013.

 Maison Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage 2017

Consistent with the earlier tasting, I recast my notes from that earlier blogpost. 

While not as elegant, concentrated, complex or intense as some of the recent Syrahs featured in these pages, this is a fraction of their price. A fun and fitting comparison that holds its own very nicely against the pair of Croze-Hermitages we tasted in Paris last week (and the second one). 

Crozes Hermitage is the biggest vineyard appellation area among the Northern Rhône appellations with 3200 acres. It is spread over 11 different communes situated in the department of La Drôme on the left bank of the Rhône River.

Deep purple ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black berry and black cherry fruits, notes of smoky, spices and hints of black pepper, nice balance of acidity, turning to smooth silky tannins on a long finish. An outstanding QPR, high quality to price ratio wine.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=3286227

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck - 90 pts
Reviewed by: The Wine Advocate - 90-92 pts

http://lesalexandrins.com/en/

Chateau Mangot St Emilion Grand Cru 2012

On our last visit to Chez Joel we tasted the 2014 release of this label, and prior to that, the 2009 release.  Tonight's tasting was consistent with that those earlier experiences.Of the previous visit I wrote the post below.

For the entree course we selected this label which ideal with the steak and duck courses. We've had this wine before from the winelist at Chez Joel over the years, in several vintages. It consistently represents great value in a quality appropriate selection at a fair and moderate price-point.

This cru, is from the St Emilion Grand Cru appellation, crafted  from the Estate's 4 terroirs spread between the foot of the slopes, slopes, terraces and plateaux. It is a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the 21 different plots that of the Estate vineyards.

Bright garnet colored, medium bodied, tangy black berry and black currant and plum fruits, spice, floral and notes of anise and cedar, dry with cloying tannins on the long finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=2533218

https://www.chateaumangot.fr/en/

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux-de-Brane 2015

For the entree course I selected this Left Bank Bordeaux from the Medoc. This is the third label of Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux. Owned by Henri Lurton, one of several Lurtons to own property in Margaux, the Lurton family has been at the helm of the property for four generations . 

From the Chateau review: "Created in the 18th Century by the De Gorce family who gives it her name, this great vineyard produced yet, a century before the classification of 1855, one of the most renowned wines of Médoc. The Baron de Brane, called “the Napoleon of wines”, purchased the vineyard in 1833 and devoted all his energy to this growth. He renamed the property “Brane Cantenac” in 1838. In 1925, François Lurton, main shareholder of Château Margaux, bought this prestigious growth. His son Lucien, then, his grand-son Henri took over him at the head of the property." 

We drove past the the 75-hectare estate during our visit to and tours around Margaux back in 2018. 

We've long been fans of their Grand Cru but this was my first tasting on record of their second label. It was delightful and in my book was the WOTN - Wine of the Night of the Reds. I'll be seeking this out to add to our cellar collection, a high QPR label for more budget conscious sipping appropriate occasions.
Its second wine is rich and concentrated with solid tannins as well as generous blackberry fruits. It will be impressive as it ages. Drink from 2020. 

From the 2015 vintage, a phenomenal ideal vintage in Bordeaux such that the second and even the third labels of top producers were exceptional, as 'all boats rise with the tide', as the saying goes. 

This release is a blend of Bordeaux sanctioned varietals: 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, more akin to a Right Bank than a Left Blend composition. 

Garnet colored with hues of purple, medium full bodied, structured but elegant and nicely balanced, expressive concentrated dark berry fruits with bright floral notes accented by spice and hints of licorice, chocolate and vanilla with a silky tannin lingering finish. 

RM 91 points.

This was rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and 87 points by Vinous.

For the final dessert course I ordered this Sauterne that was a delicious, perfect accompaniment to the lava chocolate cake. 

Château Suduiraut Lions de Suduiraut Sauterne 2016

Like the previous selection, this too is the second wine of a well known prestigious Bordeaux Grand Cru. 

Resembling its flagship first label big brother this was delicious and a perfect perfect accompaniment to the lava chocolate cake. 

The history of Château Suduiraut began in 1580 with the marriage of Nicole d’Allard and Léonard de Suduiraut. Classified as a Premier Cru Classé (First Growth) in Sauternes in 1855, it has always been known as a superb property (its neighbor is Château d’Yquem). 

In the 1990’s, the estate was sold to French financial insurance conglomerate AXA, who invested in the Château making significant investments in its vineyards and winemaking facilities. This eventually translated into a dramatic increase in the quality of the wines.

The Suduiraut vineyards span 92 hectares consisting of gravel, sand, limestone and clay soils on sloping hillsides. They are planted to 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is fermented in French oak barrels and aged on its lees in 50% new French oak for 18-24 months. Lions de Suduiraut, their third label, is produced from almost nearly 100% Semilon. This release was a blend of  93% Semillon and 7% Sauvignon Blanc. 

It was aged 50% in new barrels and 50% from barrels of one vintage, for 16 to 18 months

Dark golden, weak tea colored, medium bodied, sprites of sweet honey, apricot with note of peach and glints of pear, citrus and notes of lychee, stone fruit on a tongue coating unctuous finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3417749

https://www.suduiraut.com/

As usual and to be expected at Chez Joel, a wonderful, relaxing fun wine and dine evening.

http://chezjoelbistro.com/

 

Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend 2011

 Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend 2011

With wife Vivianna in NYC/CT for the weekend, son Alec hung out with us and neighbors over the weekend. After golfing with Chris and Andy, they came over to check out our cellar and Alec naturally pulled his 'signature' Alec's Blend for a tasting with pate' and artisan cheeses. 

As written often in these pages, we have fun with this branding, with its signature 'L' on the label, ala Laverne and Shirley, or Linda, or her mother Lucy, or our daughter Erin Leigh, or her daughter, our first grandchild/daughter Lucy!

Lewis Cellars wines are family favorites for all occasions, punctuated by this namesake Blend for son Alec. Indeed, Lewis Cabernets are some of favorites and we have a decade long vertical of Alec's as well as their Cabs, dating back to this '97. 

This blend is dedicated to Randy and Debbie Lewis' first grandson Alec, who was born on the day of the harvest of the grapes for this wine (for the '97 vintage), hence the namesake!

Our visit to the Lewis estate and Chateau were a highlight of our Napa Valley Wine 2017 Experience as well as visit and private tasting there by Alec and Vivianna on their firestorm shortened honeymoon last year. 

This 2011 vintage release was the oldest of a half dozen vintages we hold in our cellar of this label. I was concerned about its age, not only being the oldest in our holdings at ten years, but also a slight off-vintage overall in Napa. 

This vintage release is a blend of 61% Syrah, 33% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Indeed, at ten years, this was starting to show its age a bit and was showing some slight diminution with a slight funk beginning to set in. It wasn't likely due to provenance as the fill level, label and notably the cork were all in perfect condition. Some, but not all, of the funk did burn off a bit after some settling time.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, moderately intense brambly black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, hints of that classic Alec's Blend cinnamon clove spice and pepper, with some tones of black tea, wet wood and graphite setting in, with moderate tannins and acidity on the finish. 

RM 88 points - probably off a couple points due to its age.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1670123

http://www.lewiscellars.com

@lewiscellars

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

I opened this Napa Cab with left over beef tenderloin from our gala dinner the other evening for a wonderful wine and beefsteak pairing. I bought a case of this wine upon release and after tasting this bottle, wow, am I glad I had the foresight to stock up on this label release. 

My Cellartracker records indicate I bought some, tasted it, then went back and bought more, and then went back and bought a couple magnums of this release.

Son Alec was over and had never had this historic long time Napa producer so it was a chance to educate and introduce him to this benchmark Napa Cab.  

My records show I tasted one bottle of this label six years ago, back upon release in 2015. Then, I wrote, "The 2013 Napa Cab's are coming and all indications are that it is a blockbuster vintage, one of those where all boats rise with the tide, such that all earnest producers should have notable collectible releases, one for the consumer to rejoice and stock up."

Interesting that Antony Galloni used the same metaphor in writing about this vintage of Napa Valley 2013 vintage, "The rising tide has indeed lifted all boats, as can be seen by the number of estates that over-achieved and made brilliant wines... When all is said and done, there is little doubt 2013 will go down as one of the all-time great vintages for Napa Valley."

The Clos du Val received spectacular ratings and appears to be one of those rare wines that come along every so often where everything comes together for a high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) highest rated wine at a moderate price point. 

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

The wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. It was aged for 18 months in 25% new oak before bottling. 

This label was rated 95 points by Vinous and Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 92 points by James Suckling. 

Chicago wine merchant Vin Chicago described it this way. "Even more impressive than the flavors is the structure. The tannins are powerful and youthful, yet as nuanced and integrated as you'll find in some of the world's best Cabernet or Bordeaux." 

At eight years, this is just now starting to hit its stride and has a long life ahead and may not yet have reached the apex of its drinking/aging profile. It might settle down and integrate a bit further for more polish and nuance, but it is delicious now as it is. 

Bright garnet/purple colored, medium full bodied, vibrant, forward expressive blackberry, dark cherry and black currant fruits with notes of graphite, smoke, floral, herbs, black tea and tobacco turning to firm but smooth approachable tannins and a pleasing bright tangy lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2122040

http://www.closduval.com/

@ClosDuValNapa 

 

 

Team Beef Tenderloin Dinner features 2002 Napa Bordeaux Varietals

Team Dinner features Beef Tenderloin 2002 Napa Bordeaux Varietal Wines

I hosted my leadership team for a team building planning session kick-off dinner at our house. Linda grilled beef tenderloin and sockeye salmon with baked sweet potatoes and Idaho potatoes, with haricot verts. We served a horizontal flight of Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals with the dinner, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Cabernet Franc, and a Bordeaux Blend of all five, all from the same 2002 vintage.

As noted in my blogpost about the fun of serving from Big Bottles, tonight we served the Flora Springs Trilogy from Magnum.  

Prior to dinner we served a selection of artisan cheeses with a refreshing white Sauvignon Blanc, which also complimented the caprese salad course, and the salmon entree.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Prior to dinner we served a selection of artisan cheeses and a caprese salad accompanied by this Lede Sauvignon Blanc. 

As I've written numerous times in these pages, this is one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs, one we keep on hand with each vintage release as one of our mainstay 'go-to' wines.

The primary vineyards and sources for Cliff Lede Napa Sauvignon Blanc are estate grown Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Musqué. Another vineyard located in eastern Rutherford has old vines planted to a heritage Musqué clone and Sémillon.

Two other old-vine vineyards, both in Calistoga, contribute to the blend, one planted to Sauvignon Blanc and the other to Sémillon. 

In many vintages, they also include grapes from a cooler climate vineyard on the east side of Napa, imparting vibrant acidity and finesse to the wine.

A vineyard in Chiles Valley, a small pocket in eastern Napa County, east of Napa Valley, adds complexity with old vines of Sauvignon Vert planted in 1947.

The Cliff Lede winery estate and vineyards with their picturesque sculpture gardens at Yountville Cross Road and Silverado Trail are one of our popular visits during our many trips to Napa Valley. We've had many memorable visits there with the most memorable, our private tour and tasting during our Napa Wine Experience 2009.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016

We hold nearly a half dozen vintages of this label and as part of cellar management, opted towards the oldest from 2016. It was still vibrant and refreshing and tasty at five years.

I wrote in a couple notes about this release that the peach sprites were more subdued or muted but tonight it resembled previous tastings where that was a highlight of the wine. Straw colored, light bodied, aromas of floral and apricot and flavors of peach predominate with tones of lychee, pear, apple, citrus and hints of lime with a crisp clean sharp tangy finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2616721 

Earlier tastings ...

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/03/cal-wine-flight-highlights-st-pats.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/10/cliff-lede-napa-valley-sauvignon-blanc.html

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

@CliffLedeWine 

Flora Springs 'Trilogy' Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2002

For the flight of Red Wines, we started with the most complex, a blend of all five Bordeaux varietals. Moreover, this was the most moderate and subdued wine, appropriately served first, before the more concentrated, bolder, bigger single varietals reds which would have overshadowed and overpowered this more delicate selection. 

We hold or have held over the years a dozen vintages of this label spanning three decades going back to the 1990, one of our favorite Napa Valley Bordeaux Blends. I chronicled this label in detail in a blogpost early last year. 

Tonight we served this from a larger format magnum. At nineteen years, this was still drinking quite nicely, still well within its acceptable drinking window, perhaps at its prime but not likely to improve any further with aging.

Tonight's tasting experience was similar to my notes from when I last wrote about this vintage release back in 2007 when I wrote, " Smooth, soft after an hour of settling, medium bodied but somewhat complex dark berry, black cherry, and a hint of essence of mocha on the medium finish." 

At that time, this release was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by Wine & Spirits. 

This release of this popular label was not limited to just three varietals as usual, this Trilogy contained all five Bordeaux grapes in the blend.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, elegant and more subdued sophistication as opposed to bigger, more concentrated, bolder Napa Valley Cabernets, blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruits with notes of spice box, herbs, a hints of dark mocha with moderate soft tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=64904

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/09/2001-vintage-napa-cab-comparison.html

https://www.florasprings.com/our-legacy/flora-komes/

@FloraSprings

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Colleague Ken was one of our guests tonight and he is a big fan of Del Dotto wines so I pulled this from the cellar for him. We're huge fans of Del Dotto, one of the larger producer holdings in our cellar. 

We've visited Del Dotto's several Napa Valley properties numerous times over the years dating back to their early years in the mid-nineties. Our most recent visits and tastings were highlights of our Napa trips - Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017. We then targeted the just opened Piazza Winery Delicacies Wine and Food Tasting Experience during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. It was the highlight of our entire Napa trip.

I remember obtaining this label back when Del Dotto were producng was one of, if not the first vintage releases of this varietal in Napa Valley. Del Dotto were one of the first producers to bottle Cabernet Franc as a standalone bottling, a varietal typically used as part of a Bordeaux Blend to add depth and breadth of spice and structure or character to the blend. This is a great wine to keep on hand for special pairing with food highlighting the distinctive characteristics of this varietal. 

Like the other two 2002's, this was still drinking quite nicely, still well within its acceptable drinking window, perhaps at its prime but not likely to improve any further with aging.

I recall I had to bargain to obtain more than a very few of the allocated bottles at the time. Of course, by itself its big, bold. forward and expressive. 

At our last tasting of this release, four years ago, I wrote, "At fifteen years, this is aging very nicely and still holding well within its drinking window. Consistent with earlier tasting notes, dark garnet color, full bodied, bright cedar, cinnamon spice, raspberry, and hint of mocha on a big, long silky smooth tannin finish."

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19187

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/

@DelDottoWine

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 

This was the WOTN - Wine of the Night, darker, bigger, bolder and more fruit forward than the others, perhaps reflecting Mountain fruit vs those from the Valley floor.

It was apparent why Robert Craig considered his favorite of his five Napa Valley Cabernets (Mt Veeder, Spring Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Mt George in some vintages. 

 

As the biggest wine, it was appropriately served last, so as not to overpower the 'lesser' more delicate,  complex wines.

We've written throughout these pages of our Robert Craig cellar collection, one of our largest holdings, and our numerous visits to the estate winery and wonderful memories of hosted dinners with, and Tribute to the late Robert Craig.

This is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. 

 

Robert Parker gave this 90 points, Wine Enthusiast 91 points, and Vinfolio 94.

 

Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated, structured black berry and black raspberry fruits integrated with notes of cassis, clove spice, currant and licorice, turning to silky smooth  finely textured, supple tannins on the supple finish.

 

RM 92 points.  

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=70952

https://mcnees.org/winesite/labels/labels_California/lbl_CA_Robert_Craig_Mt_Veeder_cab_2002_remc.jpg 

 

https://robertcraigwine.com/

 

@RobertCraigWine

After dinner Linda served grilled peaches and Tuxedo Chocolate cake with fresh berries. With the dessert court we opened this unique limited release Augusta Missouri Port.

Mt Pleasant Augusta Appellation Missouri Vintage Port 1988

For a dessert wine, I pulled from the cellar this label from the State of Missouri in light of the irony, that two of our guests tonight, colleagues Stacy and Kevin, are both from the area. Kevin actually knows this producer and has visited the winery on numerous occasions. 

We discovered and acquired this wine during a visit to Mount Pleasant Vineyards in Augusta, Missouri on our way to a Colorado ski trip thirty years ago shortly after its release. Interesting, amazingly, the Augusta Appellation AVA (American Viticultural Area) was the first government-appointed wine-growing district in the United States. 

We've held this thirty-three year old 1988 vintage release in our cellar since then, thinking we'd one day consume it with friends celebrating a 1988 anniversary or birthyear of one of their kids. That occasion never came, but tonight, it served its purpose commemorating the regional home of two of our guests.

Ironically, after thirty years, this producer winery was recently in the news as it was acquired by the Hoffmann Family of Companies, their sixth Missouri vineyard, adding to the 700 + acres that they already own in the area.

Mount Pleasant Vineyards is the oldest winery in the Missouri Augusta Appellation, established in 1859 with buildings dating back to the 1820’s, It was originally founded by the Muench brothers who built the first cellar in 1881, which is still used today to age Mount Pleasant’s estate-bottled wines including this award-winning Augusta Port. Their 1986 Vintage Port was the only Missouri wine to ever take a gold medal at the International Wine and Spirit Awards in London. 

The winery was closed and vineyards destroyed during prohibition. 

In 1966, it was revived when Lucian Dressel and his wife Eva purchased the property and Mount Pleasant was reopened as a winery. They replanted the vineyards with self-rooted vines and classic grafted European varieties, turning Mount Pleasant into a destination.

In 1980, Augusta was chosen to be the first government-appointed wine-growing district. The first officially designated American Viticultural Area (AVA) became known as the Augusta Appellation.

Keeping the winery in the Dressel family, Chuck Dressel’s family purchased Mount Pleasant from their uncle, Lucian Dressel, in 1992, and then, earlier this year in 2021, it was purchased and is being restored by the Hoffmann Family of Companies to it’s original colors and prestige.

Today, the Augusta estate grows nine grape varieties on 125 acres overlooking the Missouri River Valley.

Tonight, at thirty-three years, while this was past its prime, it was still within it acceptable drinking window, but nearing the end and time to drink. The color was garnet colored, albeit somewhat opaque as it was taking a bit of gray cloudiness, berry fruits with notes of raisin, dark mocha chocolate, hints of cassis, roasted nuts and bit of smoke and creosote on the finish. 

RM 85 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616788

https://twitter.com/MtPleasantWine

@MtPleasantWine

 

 

 

 

 

 

Italia Vino WBTG at Angeli's Trattoria

Italia Vino WBTG at Angeli's Trattoria

We dined at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria for a casual relaxing Friday night dinner. Typically I would take a bottle BYOB from our extensive cellar collection for such a meal. Tonight, I planned to try the Angeli's WBTG (Wines By The Glass) offerings to accompany our meal. With just two of us, and expecting light dinner and a simple glass of wine with dinner, coupled with the probability of Linda seeking a white and me selecting a red, we opted for the BTG offerings. 

Linda selected the Ahi Tuna and I had the Portabello Mushroom Raviol with its brown sauce as a pairing I enjoy with Red Wine. 

From the winelist Linda selected an Italian Chardonnary, Mezzacorona from Trentino, Italy.

Mezzacorona Chardonnay DOC 2018

This Chardonnay is from the Mezzacorona estate, located in the foothills of the Italian Dolomite mountains in the Italian Alps in the valley carved by the Adige River. 

Mezzacorona has been producing wine from the their vineyards since 1904. They planted varietals in the zones best tailored to the needs of each varietal, to nurture the aromas and flavour of their terroir. Today, with state-of-the-art facilities and modern winemaking techniques, Mezzacorona produces 100% single varietal wines that represent the elegance and crispiness typical of the Italian Dolomites.

Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay are most predominant in the Dolomites, well known for their floral tones, exotic fruit, ripe aromas and silky smoothness on the palate. Mezzacorona is the largest Italian estate producer of these two varietals.

Mezzacorona grows its vines using mainly the traditional "Trentina pergola" which has evolved from years of traditions and research and their vineyards are easily recognisable as the pergolas bestow a scenic ondulating "wave" pattern on the landscape. 

Mezzacorona Chardonnay is cultivated on the highest hillside vines of Trentino where the vines benefit from optimum sunlight and cool refreshing night air which enhance the crispness of the fruits.  

Straw colored, light medium bodied, this high QPR easy drinking Chardonnay shows subtle flavors of peach, nectarine, pear and spice. 

 

RM 87 points. 

 

https://www.mezzacorona.it/

Throughout my dinner, I selected two Italian red wines by the glass - WBTG from the winelist. I was seeking Italian varietal wines to match the cuisine, the first 100% Sangiovese, the second Barbera.

Castelluccio Le More Sangiovese di Romagna 2019

This is produced by renowned oenologist Vittorio Fiore from the Castelluccio estate that dates back to the 1970s. Vittorio Fiore became the consulting winemaker in the 1980s and purchased the majority of shares in the property in 1999.

Castelluccio is nestled in the Modigliana Hills, between the two towns of Faenza and Forlì, at an altitude range of 750 - 1500 feet above sea level. The territory is known as Emilia Romagna and was part of Tuscany until the 1930s. 

The Castelluccio property represents the characteristics of “Romagna,” an ideal viticulture location near both the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains, recognized as a micro-zone best suited for Sangiovese di Romagna. It is the only DOC named after the ubiquitous grape. 

The wines compares with the Sangiovese grapes being grown in areas of Tuscany just on the other side of the Apennines Mountain. 

The total Castelluccio property covers approximately 150 acres, with 36 acres of vineyards and 6 acres with olive trees. The soil is compact layered marl and limestone, the location is composed of micro-areas called “ronchi”, referring to the rock formations that protrude from the mountain side, ideal for growing high quality of grapes. The property grows Sangiovese di Romagna, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc , the main grape varieties, the remainder in the native Sangiovese di Romagna,  indigenous and the best expression of the character of the terroir.

This is 100% Sangiovese from the estate vineyards Ronco Casone and Ronco del Vento planted from 1975-2003. The first vintage of this wine was in 1991. Total production of this wine is 60,000 bottles per year.

"Le More" refers to the blackberry character of this deep and lively Sangiovese di Romagna. The grapes are harvested from the end of September to mid-October, then fermented and aged in stainless steel in order to retain the fresh and fruity character of the wine.

Winemaker notes: "Deep ruby red with notes of blackberries, raspberries and other red fruits. The wine is well structured with good acidity and a pleasantly lingering finish."

Good QPR - Quality Price Ratio in this simple sipper that was a nice pairing with the brown sauce of my Portabella Mushroom Ravioli. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3819448

 I then moved to a slightly 'bigger' wine in this progressive tasting.

Pertinace, Barbera D'Alba 2019

This is from the Pertinace winery in Piemonte, composed of 100% hand-harvested Barbera grapes grown in the Barbera d'Asti DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). The warm, hilly region in the Piedmont region in Northern Italy is known for Barbera, the hardy staple grape  accounting for around 55% of the wine produced in that region. 

Barbera is the 3rd most widely planted grape in Italy. It is a tough, non-fussy grape, known to be flexible in its acclimation to different regions. It's typically a deep ruby color with low tannin and bracing, high acidity.

Barbera is the wine of the working people in the region that it grows. It is less “respected” than the more highly acclaimed Nebbiolo, and is therefore shunted into slightly less-desirable locations, though it has legions of dedicated patrons.

Unlike many of the other red grapes in the Piedmont, Barbera has a relatively long hang time on the vine and that imparts a lot of rich, dense flavors to the wine.

Pertinace Barbera  is rich, complex and superbly balanced with inviting notes of blackberry, plum and a hint of spice that builds to a long, elegant finish - Cesare Barbero, Winemaker. "A generous, dry red wine that is fruity and sapid, made with the best grapes from some of our oldest vineyards. A very well-structured wine with a wealth of aromas and flavors that make it versatile enough to be drunk throughout the meal, it goes very well with cold cuts, first courses, white meats and cheeses."   

Another nice QPR casual sipper, this was dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, dark and red berries accented by spice, vanilla and hints of red licorice with pronounced acidity turning to notes of oak and vanilla on the long, dry lingering finish. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3390230

 

 

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

I finished of the remains of another Chateauneuf-Du-Pape from the cooler and enjoyed it so much, I opted to open another CDP with leftover beefsteak. My mood for this appellation was bolstered by memories of our trip to the region, stirred by having a limited release premium bottle Chateau La Nerthe at dinner the other evening, and the (very) late, delayed posting of one of our events during that trip. Just yesterday I finally posted a note about our lunch in Bedarrides Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

This wine was rated 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Spectator and Vinous - a rare occasion of absolute concensus amongst four leading wine critics.  

It is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault CDP varietals.

Consistent with my last tasting of this wine going on just two years ago, at fourteen years, this 2007 vintage release may be at the apex of its drinking profile and window. The fill level, label and cork were perfect.

Classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape profile and characteristics, minus the black pepper notes which are suppressed and replaced by notes of lavender and floral.

Deep, dark ruby/purple colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with licorice, black tea, notes of vanilla bean, roasted herb, forest floor and meaty aromas with smooth tangy black cherry notes, licorice and smoky minerals lingering on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=634331

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html

Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and Fine Wines

 Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and some extraordinary Fine Wines

The family gathered at son Ryan's for a gala 4th of July holiday celebration featuring BBQ, a selection of craft beers and fine wines and holiday fireworks. Son Ryan carefully selected and smoked and grilled four racks of ribs. We brought four side dishes from Sharko's BBQ - baked beans, cole slaw, creamed spinach and mac and cheese. 

For pairing with the BBQ we assembled a flight of spectacular wines: I brought a special birthyear vintage bottle of Penfolds Grange Aussie Shiraz,  Ryan opened from his cellar a Guigal Côte-Rôtie and Alec brought a Château Pape Clément Bordeaux. 

Prior to dinner we had a selection of chips and dips. I brought a bottle of Rose' that Ryan, Linda and I discovered and acquired at the producer during our visit to the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville. I also brought a special bottle of birthyear vintage Charles Heidseick vintage champagne.

Ryan prepared incredible BBQ ribs with hand crafted rub, smoked for six hours in home trimmed applewood, then grilled. 

 Erin prepared a festive artfully decorated American Flag cheesecake with blueberries and red raspberries and strawberries. 

 With the appetizers, snacks and cheesecake we opened a celebratory Charles Heidseick 1990 birthyear vintage champagne and a Rose'.

 To celebrate the holiday, Sean put on a fireworks display for the kids. 

Long Shadows Wineries Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley Rosé 2017

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine while visiting the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville, WA during our  Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour. 

We normally don't drink Pinot Gris or Rose' wines but were captivated by this and found it a unique label for our cellar, perfect for as occasion such as today, especially since Ryan was with us when we discovered this label. 

This is from the Long Shadows collection from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills appellation of the Columbia River Valley in Central Washington State. 

This is produced and bottled independent of Long Shadows, owner producer Allen Shoup tasked  winemaker Gilles Nicault to craft a dry rosé to share with family and friends. This result, "Dazzle" was an instant hit. The wine quickly affirmed Shoup’s long-held belief that Americans would one day develop an affinity for this food-friendly wine, particularly perfect on a warm summer afternoon.

Gilles set aside a special block of Pinot Grigio and gave it extended time on the vine to develop a bright tint through slow fermentation, then added 2% Sangiovese to the blend for color. Named after Allen’s granddaughter, Julia's Dazzle is light pink in color and offers aromas of strawberry and orange peel. It is a dry style but with sweet fruit flavors and clean sharp acidity creating a light and refreshing finish.

Winemaker's notes: "Fresh and lively with bright aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and melon complemented by a racy acidity that lingers across a clean, dry finish." 

Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé Champagne 1990

Sharing and enjoying this bottle recently, and again tonight with son Alec and the rest of the family, was especially memorable as he was with us when we visited the Champagne wine region in northeast France back in 2006.

This vintage release was awarded 97 points from Wine Spectator and 94 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

As written in the recent tasting blogpost, this was a delightful surprise showing and drinking well, meeting all my expectations for this bottle. I was a bit concerned when upon opening and releasing the cork under pressure, the seeming pressure and resulting 'pop' were less than expected. Never-the-less, as hoped, the foil, cork, label, fill level and resulting wine were all ideal, showing little sign of diminution from aging. 

Amazing, impressive with life still left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2894

https://charlesheidsieck.com/en

@CHChampagne 

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

The wine flight also included the remains of the St Emilion Bordeaux L'Arossee we had left over from the previous evening dinner. 

E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 2008

The Guigal domain was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in the ancient historic village of Ampuis, home of the legendary wines of the Côte-Rôtie. Some of the historic vineyards are over 2400 years old, bordered by small terraced walls dating back to the Roman period. Etienne Guigal arrived in the region in 1923 at the age of 14 and produced over 67 vintages of wine over his storied career. 

Guigal handed over the reins to his young son Marcel Guigal in 1961 when he was afflicted by an illness that left him blind. Over the years, Marcel expanded the Guigal brand and holdings buying out Vidal-Fleury in 1984, the Jean-Louis Grippat estate in Saint-Joseph and Hermitage in 2000, and Domaine de Vallouit in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.

In the cellars of the Guigal estate in Ampuis, they produce wines from the great appellations of the northern Rhône Valley: Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. They also expanded to produce wines from appellations of the Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Tavel and Côtes-du-Rhône, which are also aged in the Ampuis cellars.

Winemaker notes for this label: "The hallmark of Chateau d'Ampuis is an unbelievably seductive perfume full of sweet red fruits, black fruits and spices, and an elegance despite the intense concentration of fruit. Chateau d'Ampuis defines what a great wine should be with its beautiful balance, complexity and length."

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Enthusiast who wrote, "In this difficult vintage, Guigal's Chateau Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of the silky character that makes Cote Rôtie special. Drink now–2020."

This was an ideal pairing with the smoked BBQ but was overshadowed by the more complex and elegant Grange and the bigger bolder more concentrated and more complex Pape Clement. 

This was dark garnet color, medium-bodied with black fruit and notes of herbs, smoke, pepper and tapenade with soft tannins on a long rather acidic finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1286574 

@DOMAINEGUIGAL

Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1990

This is a legendary bottle from a legendary producer and label. Penfolds and Grange are considered the most famous and prestigious labels of Australian wines dating back to the first experimental release in 1951. At 170 years of age, Penfolds is one of the oldest producers in Australia. They were named Australian Wine Producer of the Year 2014 by the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC). Their  flagship wine is this ultra-premium Grange, one of the most prestigious labels in the world as well as from Australia.

This release from the 1990 vintage year, Alec's birth year, was a Wine Spectator Wine of the Year in 1995.  I've written more extensively about this release of this label in earlier blogposts.

This was acquired as part of a OWC, (original wood case) upon release and has been held in our cellar ever since. The fill level of this bottle, at 31 years was lower neck, appropriate for its age, while the tissue, label, foil and cork were perfect, having been held in the original wood case in our cellar since release. 

Consistent with earlier tasting of this label, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 95 points.

Wine Spectator gave this 98 points, James Halliday 97 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 points, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18 out of her twenty point scale. 

James Halliday said it was 'destined to be one of the greatest Granges'. Wine Spectator called it  'magnificent, exotic, a veritable cascade of opulent flavors'. The Rewards of Patience - Fifth Edition (2004) called it Outstanding and projected its Drinking Window from now to 2040. Southcorp Wines said, 'The 1990 vintage was the kind that winemakers only expect to see once or twice in an entire career'.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6295

https://www.penfolds.com/

https://twitter.com/penfolds

@penfolds

Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan Graves Grand Cru Classe 2015

Alec brought this bottle from his cellar, one of a case of this wine he received from his best buddies for his 30th birthday. This is especially memorable and fun to share as I consulted with and advised his friends on selecting this label for this special gift. Its hard to believe or imagine one could serve another bottle that matches or tops the legendary 1990 Grange label above, considered one of the best releases of that prestigious label in history. 

This is one of four Grand Cru Classé wine châteaux owned by Bernard Magrez. He went into the wine trade when he left school at the age of 16, and proclaims he was totally self taught from books and great discipline.

In 1961, when he was 25 years old he traveled to the USA and discovered the super market. On his return to France, he set up his own company, specializing in whisky and port. Selling his port to the French Carrefour hypermarket in France, it became the second most popular brand of port in the country. Over time he expanded the range of spirits eventually capturing the market. 

In the 1980s, he set his focus on top-end wine estates and he acquired Château Pape Clément, the famous Graves Grand Cru Classé, which had been classified for thirty years by then. He then acquired Château Fombrauge, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, followed by Château La Tour Carnet, a Médoc Grand Cru Classé since 1855; and finally, Clos Haut Peyraguey, a Sauternes Premier Grand Cru Classé. He became the only person to own four prestigious wine estates at the same time.   

He has since acquired vineyards in eight different countries: Morocco, Spain, Portugal, Japan, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, and the US, for a total of 43 wine estates comprising over 1,000 hectares (2,470 acres) of vines. 

Château Pape Clément is one of the oldest Bordeaux Grands Crus, dating back to the 13th Century. The estate’s vineyard established by Bertrand de Goth, who in 1305 became Pope Clément V, the name subsequently given to the Château. The first harvest was in 1252.  The historic estate and brand were acquired by Bernard Magrez in 1980. 

Château Pape Clément is located in Pessac in the Pessac-Léognan appellation contrôlée within the wider Graves wine region of the Left Bank of Bordeaux. We drove through the area during our Bordeaux wine tour in 2018 as the Chateau and estate are but eight miles from the Merignac Bordeaux Airport.  

This is one of the top labels, Vinous calls it "one of the stars" from this top vintage from Bordeaux. It was rated 99 points by James Suckling, 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 95 points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast. This could arguably be the best bottle of Australian wine one will ever taste, at any price, Of course it is also one of the most expensive bottles of Australian wine to be found. 

This was a perfect pairing with the grilled smoked BBQ ribs, however, this wine would be a perfect pairing with pretty much anything! 

This is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, It was aged 18 months in 80% new French oak.

Dark blackish garnet purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex and concentrated yet elegant and polished, perfectly balanced and integrated notes of black currant, black cherry and black berry fruits accented by notes of truffles, cassis, tobacco, hints of dark mocha, spicy clove and graphite turning to smooth polished supple tannins on the full lingering finish. 

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2353553

https://bernard-magrez.com/en/le-chateau-pape-clement-2/

 

 

French Wine Dinner Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie Wheaton

French Wine Dinner Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie Wheaton 

We booked a dinner outside on the patio at Suzette's Creperie in Wheaton. Attracted by the delectable French cuisine, thoughtful Wine Spectator Best Award winelist, and outdoor dining, we were looking forward to a delightful evening. The final component of an ideal dinner outing was the acceptance of BYOB so I pulled from the cellar a vintage St Emilion to accompany my planned pate' or foie gras. 

We were joined by son Alec and daughter-in-law Vivianna. This was a special outing, partially in light of our fond memories of our spectacular trip together to Provence and the Luberon region of France two years ago. One of the highlights of that trip was a visit to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine appellation. Suzette's wine list featured several wines from the estates we visited during that trip. 

We dined on the quaint outdoor patio under the tent, likely a remnant of the Covid era, which had much the same feel of the patio garden under the tent as Restaurant Le Savoie where we dined in Marqaux during our trip to Bordeaux during that same trip to Provence.

I had been looking forward to ordering the Pâté and brought the Right Bank Bordeaux wine specifically for the pairing. We also ordered a selection of Appetizers that called for white wine and we chose from the winelist a very special limited release label. 

Chateau La Nerthe Clos de Beauvenir Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009

 
One of the highlights of our visit to Chateauneuf-du-Pape was a tour and tasting at Chateau La Nerthe where we tasted the special limited release bottle Chateau La Nerthe Clos de Beauvenir. This label is only produced in select vintages with small production of fewer than 250 cases of the special white wine in a release year. 

 

This is a blend of Rhone varietals, 60% Roussanne and 40% Clairette.

 

This was rated 95 points by Robert M. Parker Jr., 94 points by Wine Spectator and 93 points by Vinous / International Wine Cellar.

Golden colored, medium full bodied, expressive complex tropical fruit with  notes of pear and melon with floral tones and hint of vanilla on the finish. 

RM 90 points  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1131991

This special bottle was a highlight to accompany the Sole Meunière entree and the appetizers: Spicy Coconut Shrimp with Red, Yellow & Poblano Peppers in a Creamy Coconut Sauce, Three Cheese Soufflé comprised of Bleu, Gruyère & Goat Cheese, and Shrimp Beignets.

 

Linda and Vivianna both ordered the Sole Meunière served in a butter-lemon Sauce with potatoes du jour & seasonal vegetables. 

Suzette Creperie Sole Meunière

I ordered the Beef Bourgogne Crêpe, made the authentic French way with a bottle or two of Red Wine, braised with mushrooms and carrots for six hours. 

Suzette Creperie Beef Bourgogne Crêpe

Alec ordered the Duck Confit with rich duck jus on a bed of white and wild rice with seasonal vegetables.

Suzette Creperie Duck Confit

All the entree's were delectable, ideally prepared and presented.

Chateau L’Arrosee St Emilion Grand Cru Class 2000

I brought BYOB from our cellar this 2000 l'Arrosee, St-Emilion to pair and enjoy with the pate' and the beef bourgogne entree. 

Chateau L’Arrosee is named for an underground spring located on this Bordeaux estate in St. Emilion.

Founded back in 1868, L’Arrosee belonged to a member of the Council of Napoléon III, Pierre Magne who sold the estate to the French Ambassador to Austria. It was acquired by by the Dupuch family in the early part of the 20th century who produced the wines at the local cooperative until 1956. 

In 2002, Chateau L’Arrosee was bought by the Caille family who made extensive renovations to upgrade the vineyards and wine making facilities. They hired Gilles Pouquet as consulting winemaker who had extensive experience in St. Emilion having worked at Cheval Blanc, Figeac and several other notable Right Bank properties. 

In July, 2013, Chateau L’Arrosee was purchased by Domaine Clarence Dillon, the owners of Chateau Haut Brion in Pessac Leognan. They had recently purchased the St Emilion property Tertre Dugay, which they combined with L'Arrosee to form the renamed and re-branded Chateau Quintus.

Chateau L’Arrosee has 9.5 hectare St. Emilion vineyard planted with 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with vines of an average age of 35 years. The wine is aged in 100% new, French oak barrels for 12 to 18 months with an average annual production of close to 3,500 cases a year.

This was rated 92 points Wine Spectator. 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, red berry and black cherry fruits with notes of floral, earth, herbes de Provence, sweet tobacco leaf, smoke and dusty rose with a moderate lingering tannin finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=32904

The cork separated in half upon extraction by the server using a traditional corkscrew. It was then strained and decanted.

www.domaineclarencedillon.com 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-visit-to-chateau-la-nerthe.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/restaurant-le-savoie-marqaux.html 

http://suzettescreperie.com/