Magnum for Birthday family dinner celebration

Birthday family dinner celebration calls for Magnum aged Bordeaux Blend, from a lost legacy brand?

For wife Linda's birthday celebration dinner, sis-in-law came in for the weekend to join the celebration and for winter games. They prepared grilled beef tenderloin and we ordered in Covid shut-down carry out Lasagna and calamari from Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. 

The girls and kids spent the afternoon snow-shoeing at the Arboretum taking advantage of the fresh half foot layer of snow.  

I pulled from the cellar a celebratory limited select bottle of Champagne, "L" by Veuve Doussot. 

We had a bottle of this label for our anniversary celebration getaway dinner in Chicago two years ago.

Veuve Doussot Blanc de Blancs 'Cuvée L' Champagne 

This 100% Chardonnay comes from the vineyards surrounding the village of Noé-les-Mallets in the Côte-des-Bar, where 90% of the vines are planted to Pinot Noir. 

 

 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/goosefoot-chicago-anniversary.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1611608

For the dinner course we opened this aged Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend in large format magnum. 

St. Clement "Oroppas" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2001

This was produced by St. Clement Vineyards whose wines were the result of long-term relationships with notable winegrowers with vineyard sources from numerous appellations across Napa Valley including Howell Mountain, Mount Veeder, and Rutherford. These relationships and their vineyard sources represented half of the Napa Valley’s 33 different soil series and 100 different soil variations. Ironically, they called it St. Clement Vineyards but I believe they only owned the small vineyard attached to the historic estate on St Helena Highway just north of town. Their wines were sourced from third party supplier growers.

While some might argue that collectors should focus on estate sourced wines, crafted from producer owned vineyards, many reputable and even legendary labels are sourced from grower winemaker relationships. The high value of Napa Valley fruit has resulted in most properties to be acquired by producers, or have driven growers to produce their own labels. Yet many high profile labels are sourced from non-estate fruit. 

These pages showcase many producers and labels sourced from non-owned sites, as well as many grower producers who provide fruit to other winemakers. Lewis Cellars do not own their vineyard sources, Andretti Cellars are tenants of their winery and vineyards, the Vineyard designated Bosche vineyard has always been produced by Freemark Abbey. 

The legendary To-Kalon vineyard is contracted to several high profile well know vineyard labels. And I lamented recently about the late Robin William's owned estate and vineyards being sold to the French Tesseron Group, ending the long time grower/supplier/producer relationship with Robert Craig for his Mt Veeder Cabernet, a label that spanned three decades. 

I wrote recently about the Caldwell Vineyard and that it has been the grape source selected by leading winemakers for many notable premium labels including Pahlmeyer (Helen Turley), Joseph Phelps’s Insignia, Moone Tsai (Philippe Melka), Merus, Patz and Hall, Stéphane Derenoncourt and Neiman.

So it is that there are many labels sourced from third party suppliers, I caution not to get too attached to such labels as they could change over time breaking the chain of terroir site driven vertical collections. This of course, is quite the opposite from the legendary historic Bordeaux producer labels that have been in the same family for literally centuries. 

Never-the-less, none of this matters or should matter to the typical consumer. Don't pay attention to the site source chain of custody of fruit in any given bottle - drink and enjoy.  

So, from a charming Victorian house in the north end of St. Helena was the St. Clement Vineyards’ tasting room. The landmark Napa Valley estate was established in 1878 by the San Francisco stained glass merchant Fritz Rosenbaum, one of the first bonded wineries in the Napa Valley. 

The current or recent St. Clement’s was establish was founded in 1975 by eye surgeon William Casey when he purchased the historic home built in 1878 just north of St. Helena and built a 10,000-case winery behind it. In 1987, Japanese brewing company Sapporo purchased St. Clement, creating a red Bordeaux-style wine named Oroppas (Sapporo spelled backward), which became St. Clement's signature wine beginning with the 1991 vintage.

Beringer then purchased St. Clement in 1999, and it became part of Beringer Wine Estates portfolio, which at the time included several California brands, including Stags' Leap Winery, Chateau St. Jean and Chateau Souverain. Fosters Group Ltd., which would eventually spin off its wine interests into TWE, purchased the entire Beringer Wine Estates portfolio, including St. Clement, in 2000.

The Victorian mansion offered a delightful setting for wine tasting with an outside terrace that afforded view of the valley and Howell Mountain in the distance. 

The St. Clement Vineyards property was purchased in 2016 by Huneeus Vintners, owners of Quintessa in Napa Valley, from Treasury Wine Estates. The sale included the tasting room, winery and a half-acre estate vineyard, but not the St. Clement brand. 

Treasury Wine Estates, TWE grew substantially acquiring many brands over time and was spinning off properties and brands to consolidate winery operations and production and reduce costs, with a view to  'optimize quality'. TWE had acquired the majority of Diageo's U.S. wine interests in 2015 for $600 million. 

The St. Clement purchase gave Huneeus the prime real estate along the tourist-busy Highway 29, as well as a rare opportunity to acquire developed Napa Valley vineyard land and a winery with an existing permit. Huneeus was expected to re-purpose and re-open the newly branded property.

St. Clement offered single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons highlighting the unique terroirs of top vineyard sites. They also offer this Oroppas and the Oroppas Reserve wines draw from a collection of top winegrowers from which to craft the blend each vintage. The lineage of the label ended with the 2016 vintage however, despite the sale, the St. Clement brand was said to be continuing, to be produced at a nearby winery.

As written about in a recent post, as chronicled in the book A Man and His Mountain about the growth of the Jackson Family wine group, the industry has undergone tremendous consolidation as the rich and big brands get bigger and richer. The small independent producer is becoming increasing rare and to be cherished as the stakes for Napa Valley brands and wines grow bigger and bigger. 

We read recently where Arns Winery, a small boutique producer had sold their property and brand, and wrote about Richard Arrowood who sold his property and brand as they were seeking retirements.

St. Clement sourced from growers in six different Napa Valley sub-appellations, including Diamond Mountain, Howell Mountain, Mount Veeder, and Rutherford for this wine. 

The first vintage of Oroppas was released in 1991 and it has become the iconic label for the winery, noted for its consistent flavor profile and tannic structure. Oroppas strives for and consistently deliverer a rich, opulent Bordeaux-style blend that emphasized concentration, depth, and velvety tannins. The wine earned 90-plus scores every year since its vintage. 

Indeed, one reviewer felt compelled to caveat this wine and wrote that for the 2001 vintage release of this label, "Despite changes in winemakers and some vineyard sources St.Clement remains one of my favorite wineries, as impressive for its consistency as for its stellar red wines."

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label during the late nineties and early 2000's vintages. 

In 2012, Winemaker Matt Johnson discerned a few select superlative barrels in the Oroppas blend, thus initiating the limited Reserve bottling. St. Clement continues to build on its legacy of highly respected, small lot Napa wines.

This 2001 release was awarded 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. There were 5,000 cases of the 2001 Oroppas produced, a respectable large output for a grower/supplier/producer label, many of which often are but a few hundred cases. 

This was a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc.

Several Cellartracker reviewers wrote that this showing its age and needed to be consumed in the near term. We found no such indications of age or diminution whatsoever, perhaps due to the fact we were drinking from a larger format 1500 ml magnum. Larger format bottles are known to age more gracefully and longer, partly due to the higher volume of wine to air and surface area ratio in the container. Hence, large format bottles are favorites for long term collectors aging fine wines. 

Our bottle fill level, label, foil and cork were in ideal, near perfect condition, as shown in the photo. 

Robert Parker wrote, "This glorious 2001 can be drunk now or cellared for 12-16 years."

Winemaker Notes - This vintage has a greater portion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc than previous blends, showing off the youthful fruit qualities without detracting from its ageability. It is a rich ruby, dense purple color and in the nose there are flavors of coconut, caramel, chocolate, and almond; almost like a Mounds candy bar.

The denseness and concentration of the vintage shows in the black cherry, cassis, and rich blackberry flavors from the Cabernet Sauvignon, while the Cabernet Franc offers blueberry and violet characters. The Merlot adds a slight green tea-like character and big, intense cherry ending, making this an unusually complex wine. The sweet fruit qualities carry through with a hint of spicy, toasted flavors.

My notes - Dark garnet inky/purple colored, medium-full-bodied, complex but nicely balanced and integrated flavors of blackberry and black currant fruits, notes of cassis, black tea, subtle notes cinnamon spice, Linda noted sprites of menthol or mint, what one pundit referred to as a "rather warm finish", turning to supple tannins on a bright expressive lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=808096

 

Venge Vineyard "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 2017

Sis-in-law Pat in town for Linda's birthday and some winter games we opened this big red fruit filled sipper with snacks for casual sipping. 

We've been enjoying Nils and Kirk Venge' wines since the early 1990's when Nils was featured by Wine Spectator Magazine in a 1994 article on up and coming wine producers. 

One of the labels of the Venge portfolio is Scout's Honor named for the family Labrador Retriever. I remember Scout walking the rows in the vineyards with Nils during a visit to the Rutherford Penny Lane estate back in the nineties (shown right from our 2002 visit).

Scout's Honor is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, delicious and enjoyable red wine that can be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release however when cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years.

Scout's Honor starts as a unique proprietary red blend anchored by a base of old-vine Zinfandel and builds upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain vineyard Syrah.  

The blend for 2017 is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah and 9% Syrah.

We have been collecting this label since the earliest releases in the mid-nineties and hold a half dozen vintages. We typically keep a half dozen vintages of this label on hand for easy, enjoyable smooth sipping with everyday fare, great with BBQ, burgers, pizza to hearty cheese, beef, fruits and chocolates. Normally we would drink from the oldest vintage as part of cellar management but I wanted to try this recent release.  

Nil's has stepped down into retirement and winemaker and production duties are now with son Kirk who has raised the bar taking this label to new heights in recent years, earning 93 or 94 points from Wine Advocate for vintages 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016.  Kirk says, this 2017 is “perhaps our finest effort to date.” It’s 100% Napa fruit, a blend of 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and 9% Syrah from mostly 60-100+ year-old vines. 

Winemaker Kirk's tasting notes for this release: “The result is an unpretentious red wine that is ready to enjoy upon re-lease. This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of sweet honeysuckle, crushed blue herbs, aromas of violets, anise, and a touch of vanillin. On the palate is pure richness from the old-vine Zinfandel with loads of super ripe black fruits and currants, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness are found throughout the palate, with an extra-long finish that is quite pleasing to the senses. 2017 Scout’s Honor is certainly a generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release. Cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years.”  

"We start with a base of old-vine Zinfandel from our Signal Fire Vineyard in Calistoga (where some of those vines have been producing for over 100 years!) and build upon that with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finish with mountain-vineyard Syrah from the Stagecoach Vineyard. The result is an unpretentious red wine that will satisfy time and time again. Not just a fan-favorite, this wine honors our late winery dog, Scout." 

Wine buddy Andy and I visited Kirk and Nils up at the Calistoga estate and the Signal Fire Vineyard back in 2002 (shown right). 

From a branding perspective, this may be the last year you see this packaging with a paper label as the 2018 release went to a more upscale painted on glass bottle label marking, moving to a more premium positioning for this label. It remains to be seen what happens to the price point. It is already priced at the high end of the Zinfandel range, but well worth it with its sophistication and complexity and quality of the blend.

Bordering on what one might call a 'fruit-bomb"! Garnet-purple colored, full bodied, dense sweet ripe black cherry and raspberry and currant fruits with notes of spice, hints of cassis and pepper and vanilla with a long extracted finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3209032

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

@VengeVineyards 

 

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

The deep freeze in Chicago continues and we remain shut in for winter and of course Covid. Having a deep and broad wine cellar reduces the dread of cabin fever and makes for enjoyable evenings dipping in to our collection. 

Tonight, Linda created a delicious medley of grilled steak, sweet potatoes and mushrooms. This was a wonderful pairing that suited this Sonoma County Cabernet perfectly. As I've written several times recently, an ideal food and wine pairing such as this accentuates the enjoyment of the whole experience, enhancing the wine and the food. 

We've visited or stopped by the Arrowood winery a couple times during visits to Sonoma, the winery sitting just north of town back off the highway. We hold a collection of this label dating back to 1991 of which we acquired a case upon release and still hold just a couple remaining bottles, along with a half dozen other vintages including this '04. 

My opinion and experience is that the Sonoma County Cabs tend to be lighter and softer (than Napa's) and therefore a bit more approachable and less challenging, more suitable to casual sipping and lighter or less complex food pairing. 

This is the craftwork of winemaker producer Richard Arrowood. Born in San Francisco and raised in Santa Rosa, he started his winemaking career in 1965 at Korbel Champagne Cellars just north of St Helena. He earned degrees in organic chemistry at California State Sacramento and graduate work in enology at California State, Fresno. He moved from Korbel to United Vintners, then Sonoma Vineyards. 

From 1974 through 1990, he was winemaker at Chateau St. Jean, where he developed some of the first vineyard-designate Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Sonoma County. His role there grew to be winemaker and Executive Vice President of Chateau St Jean.

He and his wife, Alis, founded Arrowood Winery with the 1985 vintage where they produced small-lot varietals and vineyard designates. In April 1990, after sixteen years at Chateau St. Jean, Richard set out to devote himself full-time to Arrowood where he was producer/winemaster. He originally planned to produce reserve quality Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon only, but his passion for making wine lead him to explore and develop unusual varietals that he believed had potential to produce exceptional fruit. The Arrowood portfolio expanded to include Merlot, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Late Harvest wines, Malbec, Syrah and a few special reserve wines.

Richard and Alis were successful building the Arrowood brand and portfolio which they sold to Robert Mondavi in 2000. Richard and Alis stayed on, but left after Constellation Brands purchased Mondavi in 2004 and subsequently sold Arrowood in 2005 to the (now bankrupt) Legacy Estate Group. 

Jackson Family Wines acquired Arrowood Vineyards & Winery through the bankruptcy court in September 2006. I wrote recently about the Jackson Family history upon reading the book, A Man and His Mountain, a chronicle about Jess Jackson. 

Richard continued as winemaster there until June 2010, when he founded and left to devote his energies full-time to Amapola Creek Vineyards and Winery. They sold Amapola in 2019 and set out to retire after 54 years in the wine business.  

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This release is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (89.9%), Merlot (7.2%), Malbec and (1.6%), Petit Verdot (1.3%), all from Sonoma County.

Winemaker notes: "This 2004 Arrowood Caberent Sauvignon is a lovely, complex wine that exemplifies our distinctive style. Beginning with exceptional fruit from several Sonoma County vineyards, we selected and blended small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Each key component was aged for nearly two years in French and American oak. To retain maximum complexity, we chose not to fine or filter this wine, hence a small amount of harmless sedimentation may occur. Although delicious now, this rich and complex claret will develop well beyond the next decade.' 

"Our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is a complete wine. It is a testament to both vintage and the vineyards. The growing season opened with a heat wave in the first half of March triggering an early bloom. The remainder of the year was awash in warm days, cool nights and morning fog. All in all, we feel it was one of the finest Cabernet vintages of the last decade.'

"For vineyards, this Cabernet combines our favorite bench, hillside and mountain sites (many organically farmed) in Sonoma, Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys. By blending lots from a variety of sources Richard was able to capture the character of the vintage and the essence of Sonoma County Cabernet."

Back in 2016 I wrote about this release, "I have two left in the cellar and I wish I had more. At a dozen years old, it must be at the apex of its drinking window - it was delicious and a perfect compliment to the steak and to the anti pasta caprese salad.'

"We often turn to Sonoma County Cab's for more casual sipping as they are thought to be a bit lighter and softer than their Napa counterparts. There was nothing wimpy or second class to this Big Cab."

While the Arrowood winery and vineyards are located in Sonoma Valley just north of the town of Sonoma, they source the fruit for this label from three different Sonoma County AVA's - Knights Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. We consider Arrowood to be a benchmark, representing the best of Sonoma Cabernet.

We have visited the Arrowood properties on several of our trips to Sonoma Valley. 

This wine represents great value, high QPR as Arrowood seem to have held the price on this label as similar Napa and Sonoma labels have risen by 30-40% over the decade.

At sixteen years, this was drinking very nicely, probably still at its apex, not likely to improve any further with aging, but not showing any signs of diminution whatsoever. The filled level was proper and the cork was in perfect condition.

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 93 points. 

Blend: 89.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.2% Merlot, 1.6% Malbec, 1.3% Petit Verdot

 

Back in 2016 I wrote, Dark blackish garnet color, medium-full bodied, the berry fruit aromas filled the room on opening, bold expressive black cherry accented by a layer of leather, mocha and hint of cedar and spice on the long smooth soft tanning finish.

Tonight this was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex yet nicely integrated and balanced rich elegant dark berry fruits with floral notes turning to cassis, hints of black tea and oak with smooth soft tannins and balanced acid on a lingering finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=436318

http://www.arrowoodvineyards.com/

 

https://www.amapolacreek.com/

 

 

Rudd Estate Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Rudd Estate Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

With a winter storm warning and heavy snow falling for the last six hours, Linda grilled some beef steaks served with baked potatoes and mixed vegetables. I pulled from the cellar a robust Napa Cabernet for the occasion seeking a suitable accompaniment to the grilled steak. This proved to be a perfect selection. 

Founder Leslie Rudd began his wine career working in his father’s alcoholic beverage wholesale distribution business in Wichita, Kansas. Over time he grew Standard Beverage Corporation to be the state’s largest alcoholic beverage wholesaler.

Leslie expanded into the specialty foods business launching and investing in several national restaurants and eventually acquiring iconic Dean & DeLuca, which he owned until 2014. In 2007 he acquired the legendary Oakville Grocery in Oakville, Napa Valley, which he renovated in 2012.

Rudd purchased the Oakville Napa Valley winery in 1996 and immediately set upon enhancing and expanding the caves and winery facilities opening in 1999.

Leslie Rudd passed in 2018, after handing control of his estate to his daughter Samantha.

This 2001 Rudd Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon was the inaugural vintage of this label, vinified by David Ramey but finished by Charles Thomas, who assumed winemaking responsibilities there in the spring of 2002. 

Packaged in a heavy oversized bottle, at twenty years, the cork was moist and slightly soft but intact and this wine was drinking superbly, likely still at or near the apex of its drinking profile.

This is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, (2,150 cases were produced.)

It was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 94 points by Wine Enthusiast, 93 points by Connoisseurs Guide and 92 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

Dark garnet inky purple colored, medium-full bodied - concentrated expressive bright vibrant firm yet elegant and nicely balanced, structured blackberry and black currant fruits are accented by floral aromatics with notes of cola, sweet mocha and oak with hints of cassis and graphite on a sweet fruit filled lingering silky tannin laced finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1221410

https://www.ruddwines.com/

 

Château Cantemerle Haut Medoc Bordeaux 1985

Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 5ème Cru Classé Bordeaux 1985 

For Super Bowl festivities and feasting with son Sean on his birthday, I pulled a vintage wine from his birth year to share watching the big game.

Château Cantemerle is a Bordeaux Fifth Growth, located in the Haut-Médoc on the left bank of the Gironde river near the communes of Ludon and Macau about twenty km north of the town of Bordeaux. We passed through the village near the property on the route up to Margaux during our Bordeaux Wine Experience in 2019.

Château Cantemerle has a long rich history ic estate dating back to the 12th Century. Lord of Cantemerle bought beside Henri III of England in 1242. The chateau was part of a series of fortified structures that defended the Gironde and had its own port. The earliest records of viticulture date back to 1354 shen Lord Cantemerle paid his tithes in in clairet wine. 

When the great 1855 Classification of Bordeaux occurred, Cantermerle vineyards covered 255 adjacent to La Lagune. In 1867 Château Cantemerle received a silver medal at the World's Fair in Paris.

The modern history of the château began in 1892 when Théophile-Jean Dubos' purchased the estate which was passed down through the family until the 1980s. 

Many of Cantemerle's vineyards were pulled out during the two world wars, and were replanted in the 1980s, expanding the vineyard area from 20 hectares (50 acres) to 90ha (220 acres) by 1999. Since then, the estate has expanded considerably and has undergone modernization of the production and winemaking facilities. Production today is about 400,000 bottles each year.

The vineyards are planted to 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The vines, the majority of which are Cabernet Sauvignon, are on average 30 years old.

The soil in Cantemerle's vineyards is a mixture of silica sand and gravel, reasonably poor, thereby forcing the vines to struggle, resulting in grapes with high levels of aromatic concentration. 

Château Cantemerle Haut Medoc Bordeaux 1985 

The cork was moist and reasonably intact, however it broke and crumbled in two upon extraction, despite using a ahso two pronged cork puller (below). I removed the last quarter using a traditional screw. I was too hasty and aggressive in extraction and believe it would've remained in tact had I exercised more patience and care.

 Still holding on at thirty-five years, a testament to the ageworthiness of Bordeaux, still somewhat elegant, dark garnet colored with edges of brown starting to set in, medium bodied, the blackberry and black cherry fruits are giving way to non-fruit notes of bacon fat, cigar box, tobacco with hints of leather, tar and earth with subtle tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=96170 

https://cantemerle.com/en/

 

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

 Del Dotto Cave Blend Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Thursday, July 23, 2020

 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

This is a replay almost verbatim of a similar Friday night back in July when we out took the same Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015 to Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. As such its very common that we take BYOB from our signature producer for such occasions, this Bordeaux Blend from Napa Valley producer Del Dotto. Readers of these pages know we have been collecting Del Dotto dating back to their inaugural vintage release in 1993 and still hold decades of vintage release of more than a dozen labels - one of the largest producer holdings in our cellar collection.

We tasted and acquired this vintage release during our Del Dotto Winery Caves Tour during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend 2015

This Del Dotto Caves Blend label is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot.

At five years of age, this has improved with some aging and is more integrated and balanced than in its youth. 

 

Consistent with that earlier tasting, tonight this release seemed even more vibrant and expressive than before, hence I added a point to its rating.

 

Dark purple garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright vibrant, nicely integrated and balanced black berry and black raspberry fruits with tangy notes of clove spice with a layer of sweet oak and mocha chocolate turning to cloying tannins on an lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

Winemakers' notes for this release: "Dark garnet color with a bright bouquet of sweet blueberries, wet rock and fresh cut violets & flowers. Earthy flavors with hints of clove and all spice. This wine has a long, balanced finish with a kiss of oak."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/08/del-dotto-napa-valley-cave-tour-barrel_12.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2381300

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

@DelDottoWine 

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

For dinner, Linda prepared a casserole, warm comfort food, so I wanted a hearty big wine as an accompaniment but something more approachable than a big Cabernet. I pulled from the cellar this Twomey Napa Valley Merlot, from the 2002 vintage, old enough to show its true character and potential, but hopefully, not over the hill so as to lost its eminence and luster. It proved to be the right choice and an ideal match.  

This is sourced from the Napa Valley Soda Canyon Vineyard, the same vineyard source as a bottle we had with dinner just the other evening, so I was anxious to try this as a comparison to that selection too.  

I still remember we first discovered this label at Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington, Indiana while visiting son Alec there at Indiana University a decade ago. We ordered it off the winelist with dinner at what was considered the best restaurant in Bloomington during that era. Chef/owner David Tallent amassed nine James Beard Award nominations over the business’ 12-year history before closing in 2015.

Twomey was founded in 1999 by legendary Ray Duncan, founder of the well-known known and highly regarded Silver Oak, and sons David, and Tim Duncan. David served as the managing partner and today is Chairman and CEO of both Silver Oak and Twomey having joined Silver Oak in 2002. The name Twomey, (pronounced two-me) is named after their grandmother Velma’s maiden name and is also the middle name of several family members.

During the early years, they produced only Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Soda Canyon Ranch Vineyard that they purchased in 1999, named for its location just off of Soda Canyon Road in south eastern Napa Valley. At the time, it was among the most expensive per vineyard acre transactions ever made in the Napa Valley. As prices for prime vineyard land escalated, in retrospect it was a very good investment.

The property was also planted to another Bordeaux varietal, Merlot. Daniel Baron, then Silver Oak winemaker, had worked at the prestigious Château Pétrus in Bordeaux and was very familiar with premium Merlot. Since Silver Oak was focused on and known solely for Cabernet Sauvignon, the decision to produce a Merlot based wine prompted the creation of an entire new label and brand, and eventually its own winery. The initial few vintages were crushed at Laird Family Estate (a custom crush winery north of the city of Napa).

Twomey Merlot is a single vineyard bottling sourced exclusively from the estate Soda Canyon Ranch, located in the benchlands of the Vaca Mountains of Napa Valley. Soda Canyon Ranch Vineyard is the exclusive vineyard source for Twomey Merlot.

Today the Soda Canyon property is planted to the five classic Bordeaux varieties including French Merlot clones selected for their low yields of small, intensely flavored berries. Situated on the first bench off the Napa Valley floor on the lower foothills, the terrain consists of well-drained volcanic soils full of rocks mixed with gravel. The warm days are moderated by cool breezes wafting up from San Pablo bay and morning fog, Merlot grapes ripen slowly here, developing rich black-fruit character and extraordinary complexity.

Twomey also produce a premium Pinot Noir, first released with this vintage in 2002, and one white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, first released in 2007, created from several vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma, including a vineyard next to their winery in Calistoga, and from the vineyard next to Silver Oak estate in Oakville.

In 2011, Twomey entered into collaboration with Château Pétrus legend Jean-Claude Berrouet on Soda Canyon Ranch Merlot, combining Jean-Claude’s expertise and the terrior of Napa Valley, resulting in a blend of Old World and New, California’s fruit-forward style with the subtlety and restraint of Bordeaux. 

Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2002

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 91 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

This wine is typically close to 100% Merlot but invariably is blended with small amounts of other Bordeaux varieties (typically Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot). 

This vintage release was a blend of 99.4% Merlot and just a miniscule .6% of Cabernet Franc. 

The cork was dry and crumbled and broke in half on extraction (below). I hastily used the rabbit ears corkscrew which is best for recent releases and necessary for synthetic corks. I should've used an 'ahso' two pronged cork puller, which I usually do. I believe it would've extracted the cork intact, even in light of its deteriorated condition.

Dark garnet colored with a slight brownish tinge settling in suggesting this may be passing its apex, complex, concentrated, tight, structured blackberry and black currant and plum fruits with predominate notes of smoke, with tones of tobacco, black tea, herbs, cassis and hints of black pepper turning to a long firm tannin finish. 

RM 91 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=69683 

https://twomey.com/

@Twomey

 

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2018

Last weekend I read the book A Man and His Mountain, the story of self-made billionaire Jess Jackson and his pursuit of his dream to build a brand of premium varietal based wine for the mass market. His accomplishments over the ensuring two and a half decades exceeded all expectations achieving the art of the possible building a multi-billion dollar wine empire. 

Starting with a single 80 acre farm to retire as a gentleman farmer, he became a grape grower after a successful law career. He saw an opportunity to create a new category of wines and graduated to acquiring the properties to source his growing demand for grapes, growing to owning two dozen top tier wineries and brands with thousands of acres of vineyards across the state. 

The brand that he envisioned grew to an iconic empire, Kendall-Jackson and the Chardonnay label created the whole category of varietal based mass market premium wine shipping millions of cases of wine annually.  

The book was so captivating I read it in one sitting plus a short follow up session at breakfast. It chronicled not only the business and the brand, but also the growth and maturation of the wine industry. It also followed his life, from childhood, through school, to his career from part time cop, to successful lawyer, to wine producer to wine industry mogul. It also featured his exploits into and his success in some of his hobby side ventures, that also achieved the highest level of success, and changed other industries. 

Lastly, its a human interest story about a man and his families, his initial nuclear family, it's demise, and his second family through to his death. Notably, the name Kendall-Jackson is the combination of his first wife's family name and married name. Alas, their lack of agreement on the degree of risk in starting a new business, and lack of shared vision and commitment lead to the disintegration of their marriage.

Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2018

With the book and its vivid history and evolution of this wine as a backdrop, I went out and bought a bottle of this 'premium' mass market varietal based wine - Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Santa Barbara County Chardonnay.

Linda prepared salmon with brown rice pilaf for the occasion.  

Winemaker notes: Lush tropical fruit, lemon, lime and floral notes intertwines with nice minerality from the calciferous soils in the Santa Maria and Los Alamos Valleys. There is a touch of floral notes from the small amounts of Dijon and Rued clones, and a hint of vanilla and spice to round out the rich, long finish.

This is 100% Chardonnay sourced from estate (producer owned) vineyards from Santa Barbara County. The Santa Barbara wine region is renowned as being one of California’s coolest grape growing regions due to its unique east-west running valleys running along the coast. Santa Barbara’s cool, maritime climate results in a long growing season, with extended hang-time on the vines giving the grapes more balanced ripeness and intense flavors.

This was rated 92 points by Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Mar 2020, 91 points by Wine Advocate, 90 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 88 points by Wine Enthusiast.

I found it acceptable for a $20 bottle, widely available for fifteen dollars, straw colored, sprites of lime citrus with notes of tropical fruit, minerality and hint of vanilla, detracted by a rather unpleasant funky barnyard aroma. I hope this was anomalous to the bottle we obtained.

RM 86 points.  

The following evening, with half the Grand Reserve left, I opened this Cambria Chardonnay half bottle for a mini comparison tasting. If I read it right in the book, this was a coveted vineyard of Jackson, sourcing grapes for his California Chardonnay. Jackson maneuvered a purchase of the property when the owners were seeking to sell, by splitting up the red wine Pinot Noir parcels from the white wine Chardonnay parcels. He was highly leveraged at the time and could not afford the entire property, and was only interested in that portion that grew Chardonnay grapes. The book details the maneuvering and negotiating that eventually lead to Jackson acquiring the Cambria Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. 

I believe the grapes in this wine would be the same grapes sourced for both these labels, the single vineyard designated select, and the blended broader appellation bottling, the Santa Maria Valley being a sub-appellation of Santa Barbara County.

There was a similarity in the profiles of the two wines with similar taste sprites in the citrus notes. Interesting and fun comparing and speculating the common genealogy of the grapes. Are the same source grapes in both bottles?

Cambria Benchbreak Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay 2014

This Benchbreak Chardonnay was golden butter colored, medium bodied with lively bright fruit flavors of citrus, peach, green apple and hints of sweet pineapple with a layer resembling butterscotch on a fresh, clean finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2263240 

 

The Kendall-Jackon Jess Jackson Story 

In 1974, Jess Jackson purchased an 80-acre pear and walnut orchard up in Lake County, California, just north of Napa Valley, and replanted it with Chardonnay grapevines. In 1982, Jess and his family set out to make a premium, yet affordable, California wine. 

In 1982, he set out for New York City to establish distribution for his new concept wine and unknown brand. He sold his first case of his Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay to the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station. That same year, that inaugural vintage of Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay won the first-ever Platinum Award for an American Chardonnay at The American Wine Competition. 

Soon thereafter, President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy, native Californians, wanted to serve a California wine in the White House. Nancy discovered and fell in love with the taste of Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay and selected Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay as their 'house wine'. San Francisco Chronicle's Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist and city icon, Herb Caen, caught wind of the story and wrote a column about the wine referring to the Chardonnay as "Nancy’s wine." The brand was established, demand exploded, and the company grew exponentially. 

By 1991, Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay had become the #1 selling Chardonnay in America, and remains so to this day. 

In 2007, Jess Jackson was honored with the Wine Enthusiast Magazine Lifetime Achievement Award, awarded each year to the individuals and companies that have made outstanding achievements in the wine and beverage world. Jess Jackson was one of the first and largest winemakers to introduce America to varietal-specific wine, not only increasing the public’s understanding and appreciation of wine, but also making it affordable. 

Jess Jackson passed away in April of 2011.  

In 2013, Wine Enthusiast named Barbara Banke, Jackson's second wife and long-time partner who helped him build the business, and succeeded him as its leader, as its 2013 Wine Person of the Year. The first woman to win the award, Barbara shares it with Jess, the magazine’s inaugural recipient in 2000.

In 2017 Kendall-Jackson was awarded Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

https://www.kj.com//wine/grand-reserve/chardonnay

Dowdell Napa Valley Soda Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Dowdell Napa Valley Soda Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

After our wine-dinner, we did another cellar dive and Dan pulled out this unique single label limited release Napa Cabernet that he picked up at auction. 

This label was marketed by Wilson Daniels a wine marketing firm who 'use education and brand-building to develop mutually rewarding, long-term relationships and strategic partnerships with luxury producers' to market and promote 'high profile fine wines featuring top terroir, that are benchmarks in their region'. 

One boutique merchant wrote in their promotion of this wine, 'We believe the project was initiated for a specific buyer in mind. That didn’t pan out and the wine wound up in limbo. Very little made to market. We just discovered it and we bought every single bottle we could get.' 

Essentially, someone had excess fruit, or wine, or as they said, proceeded on a wine production project that then needed marketing, promotion and distribution, developing a label and a brand. Since they were not owner producers, not producing 'estate' wines, these projects are often 'one-hit wonders', or less, if and when they don't live up to their hype or lofty expectations. They are fun and interesting experiments and experiences - just don't get attached to them as you may not see a follow on encore

This was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a single block of the former Stagecoach Vineyard in Napa, on the lower reaches of the Vaca Range above Silverado Trail, north of Atlas Peak, south of Howell Mountain. The Stagecoach Vineyard is one of the most storied legendary vineyards in Napa Valley.  Stagecoach fruit has sourced scores of premium and ultra premium bottlings by many top winemakers and labels over the years. The property was recently sold to E.J. Gallo which has caused much consternation through the Napa wine community and makes this independent bottling even more unique as a single vintage release appellation specific designated bottling, not likely to be repeated again? Cellartracker records indicate three vintages released - but only reviews for this 2014. With the only vintage reference on the rear label, who knows?

This label was crafted by notable winemaker Thomas Brown. According to The Terroirist Wine Journal, "Thomas Brown is the nation's hottest winemaker." He has received many 100-point scores from Robert Parker and James Laube. He was Food & Wine Magazine’ "Winemaker of the Year." He has lead or advised winemaking at Chiarello, Schrader, Outpost, Maybach, Revana, TOR, C. Mondavi, Jones Family, Harris Estate, Hestan, Seaver, Black Sears, Casa Piena and more.

I wrote about Thomas Brown and Chiarello in an earlier blogpost. 

This was aged for 19 months in 3 kinds of French Oak - Tonnellerie, Remond and Berthomieu.

This is packaged in an ultra-premium oversize, heavy glass bottle with a super deep punt. Unfortunately, the wine does not quite live up to the presentation of the packaging. 

Dark blackish inky purple, medium-full bodied, this wine is more defined by what it is not, rather than what it is, not overly dramatic or inspiring, not overblown, over-extracted or over-oaked, smooth, soft, balanced blackberry and black raspberry fruits with notes of cassis and tar, a touch of leather and spice turning to hints of aromatic floral notes and creme caramel on a smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2955120

Super Big Red Wine Flight for Grilled Beefsteak Dinner

 Super Big Red Wine Flight for Grilled Beefsteak Dinner

Fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Dr Dan and Linda hosted Linda and I on a snowy winter evening. They prepared grilled New York Strip Steaks, baked potatoes, brussel sprouts, beets, and homemade baked onion soup. Before dinner there was a broad selection of artisan cheeses. These were great pairings with the Champagne and the Chardonnay.

 
Discussing the evening ahead of time, Dan offered he was going to serve a Howell Mountain Cabernet so I pulled one from the cellar to take as a comparison pairing.

The occasion was not only fellowship but also a celebration of Dan's recent successful surgery. 

The wine flight included vintage Champagne before dinner for the celebration and thanksgiving toast and to accompany the cheeses. Dessert was deliciously decadent Chocolate Tuxedo cake. I brought the remains of the dessert wine from the previous evening wine dinner for pairing. 

The wines:

Veuve Doussot Champagne Ernestine Millesime 2014
Gary Farrel Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017
Fleury Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Doubleback Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Château Suduiraut 1er Cru Classe Sauterne 2002

Veuve Doussot Cuvee Ernestine Brut Champagne Millesime 2014 

From the Aube region of Champagne, 150 km south of Epernay, midpoint on the route down to the City of Dijon. 

This vintage release is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It scored 92 points in Wine Spectator, and 91 points by International Wine Cellar.

Champagne colored, young vibrant nicely balanced fruit of apple and citrus with mineral texture and tight acidity.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3042620

Gary Farrel Sonoma County Russian River Valley Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Chardonnay 2017

This is a wine club exclusive allocated label. Dan became a member when we visited Gary Farrell with Dan and Linda during our Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.. 

The grapes for this outstanding vineyard designated select Chardonnay come from two different blocks within the Allen Vineyard, planted just to the south of the Rochioli Vineyard. The diverse soil types and unique microclimates of this site provides ideal conditions for Chardonnay. Each clone and field selection were chosen to take advantage of the distinctive terroir of the specific soil type, elevation and exposure to the sun. 

Some of the oldest vines have been nurtured by three generations of the Rochioli family. This blend is composed of clones 76 and 15 from two blocks at the Allen Vineyard.

Winemaker's notes for this release: "Flecks of gold reflect brilliantly through an inviting straw hue as the 2017 Rochioli Allen Chardonnay is poured into the glass. Aromas of apple blossoms and chaparral clematis entice the senses upon first swirl. Elements of dried stone fruits coupled with citrus zest provide endless layers of complexity and verve. Focused minerality and crystalline acidity complete the package, delivering a stunning concentration of silky texture and balanced flavors."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3551154

https://garyfarrellwinery.com/

@GFarrellWinery

Fleury Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Fleury Estate Winery is a family owned winery in Rutherford in the heart of the Napa Valley founded by Brian and Claudia Fleury in 2000, pivoting from a successful software business career in the Bay Area. We met Brian and Claudia at the Del Dotto Barrels and Beasts extravaganza shortly thereafter. Fleury and Del Dotto have been collaborators in various Napa Valley ventures. Back then I acquired some of their their earliest label, Lauren Bryce, named for their children. 

Fleury Estate wines are a favorite of son Ryan and several of his colleagues at Oracle.

Fleurys owns 50 acres of premium Napa Valley vineyards - eleven acres at the winery estate site in Rutherford, thirty acres in St. Helena, and six acres in Deer Park high atop Howell Mountain. This variation of different appellations and elevations enables Fleury to craft a portfolio of varying labels with consistent, high quality year after year. Total production is about 4,000 cases of wine per year.

The Fleury Estate, just south of St. Helena in Rutherford in the valley center, is home to the Fleury winery along with a hospitality center with tasting room, situated amidst the 11 acre estate vineyard. 

This label, Howell Mountain BDX is their play on the word Bordeaux, it is a red Bordeaux blend comprised primarily of Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Two hundred cases were produced.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, vibrant expressive blackberry fruit with sprites of plum and cherry accented by notes of tar, cigar box and leather with moderate tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1614168

https://www.fleurywinery.com/

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

I brought this from the cellar to compare with the Fluery Howell Mountain Cabernet. I've written often in these pages that Robert Craig, as well as Del Dotto are some of our largest holdings in our cellar collection, spanning more than two decades of vintage releases across numerous labels.

We've long been fans of Robert Craig and his family of appellation specific Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons featuring mountain fruits from three different Napa Mountains, Mt Veeder, Howell Mountain, and Spring Mountain District, and sometimes supplemented by another offering from Mt George.

We first met Robert back in the early 1990's when he was producing his handcrafted wines up on Atlas Peak. Robert started his winemaking career up on Mt Veeder and as such, this was his first Mountain designated release offering under the Robert Craig label, and fittingly, it is his favorite.

Shortly thereafter he released a Howell Mountain label which is typically my favorite, up until the limited release of his Spring Mountain District Cabernet in 2007 which I liked even more!

We've met with the Robert and Lynn Craig and various members of their team numerous  times during our Napa Wine Experiences (1998), during their visits here to Chicago, and have visited their Howell Mountain winery harvest parties and special events, and of course their tasting room in town in Napa.

Perhaps our most memorable Robert Craig experience was a special luncheon we held up at the winery during our Napa Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008 - Robert Craig on the lawn overlooking the vineyards, the valley below, and the opposing Mayacamas range across the Valley. A photo of that picturesque setting (shown above) was Linda's screensaver for years and the subject of one of her oil paintings. 

This Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is dark purple colored, medium-full bodied, focused blackberry and black raspberry fruits with smooth velvety texture, tones of soft sweet mocha with hints of cedar, spice and soft oak, a whisper of cedar and herbal notes on a polished smooth finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=379780

 

Doubleback Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Turning from Napa Valley and California to the north, Dan opened this Cabernet from Quarterback turned winery owner and producer Drew Bledsoe, very timely as we might have seen him play his last game in the NFL Playoffs series loss to Tom Brady and the Buccaneers who advance to the Super Bowl next week. 

We drove up to the Bledsoe property in the sloping foothills of the Blue Mountains in the southern reaches of the Walla Walla appellation during our Walla Walla Wine Experience back in 2018. 

This was Doubleback's first vintage to include estate-grown grapes in the blend. The 2011 cool vintage provided a challenge to winemakers in the Northwest as well as down in Napa Valley. This was crafted by legendary Columbia Valley winemaker Chris Figgins.

This won wide critical acclaim garnering 94 points and a 'Cellar Selection' from Wine Enthusiast, 92 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and Wine Spectator.

Dark inky purple colored medium full bodied, vibrant ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits, very similar to the Fleury above, but less complex, and lacking the polish and balance of the Robert Craig. Notes of truffle graphite and hints of creme de cassis with smooth tannin amid vibrant acid backbone cuts through its richness ending with a lingering finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1787867

Château Suduiraut 1er Cru Classe Sauterne 2002

We enjoy sweet unctuous desert wines with salads, cheese or deserts. This was a nice finisher, a perfect complement to the final dessert course of decadent chocolate cake. 

This is a classic Sauterne, a blend of Semillon (94 %) and Sauvignon Blanc (6 %). Château Suduiraut is considered to be one of the finest Sauternes.

Golden honey, dark amber colored, full bodied yet delicate, nicely balanced fruit and floral aromas, complex roasted and candied notes of apple, vanilla and honey, medium sweetness and a long smooth silky finish.  Not as sweet and unctuous as some vintages, the fruit is more subdued lacking the apricot nectar and honey of some vintages. This showed plenty of botrytis, with predominate notes of smoke, marzipan, almond, ripe apple, and hints of vanilla on the tongue cloying finish.

RM 91 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this wine 90-93 points, Wine Spectator, 90 points.

https://www.suduiraut.com/en/vin/1/chateau-suduiraut

 

“A Night in Sicily” Italian Village Donnafugata Covid Lock-in Virtual Wine Dinner

“A Night in Sicily” Covid Lock-in Virtual Wine Dinner Presented by Chicago's Italian Village Restaurants

Italian Village Restaurants in Chicago hosted “A Night in Sicily” presented by Jared Gelband, Italian Village Wine Director and Chef Jose, and guest host Italian Wine Specialist, Daniele Sbordi, who lead a virtual journey to the island of Sicily and a tasting of wines from producer Donnafugata Winery. 

 A four course dinner was specially prepared for pick-up at the restaurant complete with preparation directions and a wine course selection of three bottles of Donnafugata Sicilian wines. 

 For the occasion, we were joined by son Sean and daughter-in-law Michelle in person in our dining room, and daughter Erin and son-in-law Johnny and their four children, who attended virtually via zoom from their home. We were joined via zoom with another dozen folks. 

 To facilitate and optimize the experience, we set up a large screen TV and our computer in the dining room for the occasion. 

The dinner: 

Antipasta
Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping

Primi
Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce

Secondi
Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon / Proscutto / Provolone / Green Onion / Salsa di Pomodoro 

Dolce
Italian Cannoli / Italian Biscotti 

Vini - The Wine

Donnafugata "Sur Sur" Sicilia DOC Grillo 2019

Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018

Donnafugata "Sul Volcano" Etna Rosso DOC 2017

I wrote in these pages recently about the art and magic of pairing food and wine to magnify the overall experience. Tonight, the masterful pairing of the wines to the food courses by Wine Director Jared and Chef Jose amplified both the food and the wine. As a result, as I wrote Jared in a follow up note, "everything exceeded my expectations, the food, the wine, the pairing, the overall experience".

Even though there were six of us adult family members to share the experience, we quickly regretted not including other members of our Pour Boys wine group. Our Pour Boys wine group attended the fabulous Sassicaia producer wine dinner at Italian Village last year. We'll be certain to do so when we next participate in such an event. Or, ideally, do it together in person when the Covid controls are relaxed or behind us. 

Donnafugata was established in Sicily in 1983 by Giacomo Rallo, the fourth generation of a family with over 160 years of experience in quality wine, along with his wife Gabriella, a pioneer of viticulture in Sicily. Giacomo passed away in 2016, so the company today is run by their children José and Antonio and a team of people focused on excellence. 

The name Donnafugata comes from a novel by Tomasi di Lampedusa entitled Il Gattopardo (The Leopard). The name that means “donna in fuga” (woman in flight) refers to the story of a queen who found refuge in the part of Sicily where the company’s vineyards are located today. The adventure tome also inspired the corporate logo, the image of a woman’s head with windblown hair that dominates the brand and adorns every bottle. All Donnafugata wines' labels and names are inspired by Gabriella Rallo and designed by Stefano Vitale whose original artwork is featured each on the labels of each of the two dozen wines they produce. His works were featured in an exhibition "Art and Wine - Chasing Donnafugata”, presented by FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano in Milan in 2018 in the prestigious Villa Necchi Campiglio.

Donnafugata produce over forty estate wines meaning they are sourced from the producer owned vineyards that span almost six hundred acres of 45 different varieties of grapes indigenous to Sicily. Total production is near 5 million bottles annually.

Donnafugata "Sur Sur" Sicilia DOC Grillo 2019

We discovered and wrote about the Italian Grillo grape varietal earlier this winter, so it was fun to try another producer and label of this wine, another nice QPR pleasant sipper, worth exploring and trying a Grillo wine.

Donnafugatta "Sur Sur" is produced from Grillo, an ancient Sicilian grape varietal. The grape name grillo means cricket, for the crickets that are common in the region and said to bring good luck. The name comes from the classical Arabic language which was once also spoken in Sicily. The label features Stefano Vitale artwork of Gabriella (founder of Donnafugata, with her husband Giacomo) as a girl in flight, running barefoot through the flowers and fresh grass.

This is 100% Grillo classified grapes from the Sicilian DOC, according to Italy’s 'denominazione di origine controllata' (DOC) classification system, akin to France's well-known Appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) and America's AVA systems. DOC, means designation of 'controlled origin', it is the second highest quality classification of the Italian system. 

There are 329 different DOCs in Italy, across a wide range of red and white wines across the country, from Prosecco sparkling wines to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany. Each DOC has its own rules about permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, alcohol levels, and aging requirements including use of barrels. 

The grapes are from the western tip of Sicily, the Contessa Entellina estate and neighboring areas and in the hilly hinterland between Marsala and Salemi in the Baiata, Alfaraggio, Pioppo district. The region has a distinctive terrior, hilly with altitudes from 200 to 600 meters, loamy sub-alkaline limestone soils, arid with little rainfall, with substantial variance in warm daytime to cool nightime temperatures with Meditteranean breezes, that is ideal for the growing and ripening of Grillo grapes. 

 

Donnafugatta have five hundred acres in eight different sites in the region where they grow both white and red grape varietals. 

This label has been produced since 2013 with 4000 cases annual production. It was awarded 91 points, #86 of the Top 100 Wines of 2019 by Wine Enthusiast. 

This was a wonderful pairing with the antipasta courses. We cheated and added a starter course of Linda's wonderful lobster tails on a ramukan of buttered croutons. Following was the Italian Village Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping. Linda improvised with this course and chopped the Caponata into a wonderful tapenade. Both were wonderfully complemented by this wine.

 

 Winemaker notes: "Brilliant straw yellow, on the nose SurSur offers a fresh bouquet with notes of white fleshed fruit (peach and cantaloupe melon) combined with scents of wildflowers and mint. A soft palate, the fruity notes return combined with pleasant freshness."

This was straw colored, light bodied, aromatic with sprites of citrus, tropical fruit, floral, melon and hints of peach, dry with crisp clean acidity. Good QPR in this label.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3592197

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/sursur/

Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018

This is a blend of grape varietals: Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and Frappato, one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily, sourced from 88 acres of eight Donnafugatta estate vineyards from the prestigious denomination: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, in the territory of Acate on the western side of the southern tip of Sicily. 

The terroir is gently sloping terrain from 120 to 150 meters with sandy medium tectured limestone soils with warm temperate Mediterranean climate of warm temperate days moderated by sea breezes, and cool nights.

This label is classified DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality classification designation for Italian wines. , while the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), has less strict guidelines. The rules for DOCG are stricter than DOC, yields must be lower and the wines must be aged in barrels longer. Also, DOCG requires the wines be submitted for technical analysis and tasted for approval by a government committee before they can be sold as DOCG wines. Interesting too, DOCG wines even have a numbered, government seal across the neck of the bottle to prevent counterfeiting.

Floramundi, a refined red, the dialogue between two souls: the one of Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and the one of Frappato, one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily.

Like all Donnafuggati labels, Floramundi features distinctive colorful artwork by Stefano Vitale artwork, sponsored by proprietor  Gabriella Rallo. This label features the stylistic figure of a woman in a rainbow of symbols, of the tradition of the historic Pupi Siciliani (Sicilian Puppets).

This is the third vintage release of this label; it was awarded 92 points by James Suckling, and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

This was a wonderful complement to the Italian Village Primi Course; Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce. Linda was the favorite wine, food and pairing of the rest of our group. I preferred the Secondi course and pairing. 

Winemaker notes for this release: "Intense ruby color with bright purple reflections; Floramundi offers intense fruity aromas, among which the notes of black cherry and berries (blueberry) stand out; the bouquet opens with delicate balsamic nuances of laurel and characteristic spicy notes of black pepper. The tasting is supported by freshness and softness that make it juicy and very pleasant to drink. The tannin is fine and well integrated. Floramundi 2018 expresses the harmonious balance that Cerasuolo di Vittoria can reach."

Bright Ruby colored, light-medium bodied, bright vibrant cherry and cranberry fruit flavors accented by tangy acidity, dusty rose floral tones and hints of white pepper.  

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3888200

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/floramundi/ 

Donnafugata "Sul Vulcano" Etna Rosso DOC 2017

For the main Secondi course, Chef Jose prepared this imaginative Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon  with Proscutto, Provolone and Green Onion in a robust tangy Salsa di Pomodoro. The Chef's directions called for this to be mixed with the accompanying Italian Village signature rosemary potatos. 

Linda called an option and served the potatos on the side which was a great move - they were akin to a whole additional course in of themselve and provided another complete wonderful tasting pairing experience.  

The Donnafugata Sul Vulcano label is from the Etna Rosso Denomination. It is a Etna Rosso DOC classified wine. It is a blend of Nerello Mascalese, the main red grape variety from the prestigious Etna appellation, with a small percentage of Nerello Cappuccio grape varietal. 

The fruit for this label is sourced from Donnafugata 45 acres of estate vineyards in Eastern Sicily, on the north side of the historic volcano of Mt Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano from which it derives its name, between Randazza and Castiglione di Sicilia.

The terroir there is a higher altitude of 750 meters with deep mineral rich volcanic soil, cooler sub-climate with the Sicilian dramatic variations of warm days and cool nights. 

This was more my style of wine, darker, more dense concentrated and complex, more like a Nebbiolo or a Bordeaux varietal. Naturally, this style was ideally paired with the hearty beefsteak, cheeses and tangy pomodoro sauce. As noted above, it also paired superbly with the rosemary potatoes. 

The art series stylistic label features a goddess-volcano with intense colors, red, yellows, and iridescent blacks, another design of artist Stefano Vitale.

This is the second vintage release of this label, first released in 2016.

James Suckling and Wine Critics.com both gave this 93 points. 

Winemaker notes: "Pale ruby red, Sul Vulcano offers an elegant bouquet with notes of red fruits (raspberry and cherry) and flowery scents (violet), along with delicate spicy nuances of cinnamon and nutmeg."

Garnet colored, medium bodied, robust flavors of black raspberry and black cherry with notes of tobacco, hints of graphite, floral violets, hints of cinnamon and nutmeg spices with moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3229271

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/sul-vulcano-etna-rosso/

We supplemented Jared's Italian Village Donnafugata wine flight with a dessert wine from our cellar for the Dolce Course of Italian Cannoli and Italian Biscotti. Linda also served her Pots-au-de-Creme Chocolat dessert. 

Château Suduiraut 1er Cru Classe Sauterne 2002

We enjoy sweet unctuous desert wines with salads, cheese or deserts. This was a nice finisher, a perfect complement to the final Dolce course. 

This is a classic Sauterne, a blend of Semillon (94 %) and Sauvignon Blanc (6 %). Château Suduiraut is considered to be one of the finest Sauternes.

The history of Château Suduiraut, dates back to the 1600’s. It was classified as a Premier Cru during the official 1855 wine classification programme. The French conglomerate AXA Millésimes acquired Suduiraut in 1992. 

Golden honey, dark amber colored, full bodied yet delicate, nicely balanced fruit and floral aromas, complex roasted and candied notes of apple, vanilla and honey, medium sweetness and a long smooth silky finish.  Not as sweet and unctuous as some vintages, the fruit is more subdued lacking the apricot nectar and honey of some vintages. This showed plenty of botrytis, with predominate notes of smoke, marzipan, almond, ripe apple, and hints of vanilla on the tongue cloying finish.

RM 91 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this wine 90-93 points, Wine Spectator, 90 points.

https://www.suduiraut.com/en/vin/1/chateau-suduiraut

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/sursur/

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