Auberge Etchegorry Authentic French Basque Dining Experience

Auberge Etchegorry Authentic French Basque Dining Experience

For our last night in Paris, wrapping up our EMEA roadtrip, we sought a simple, casual but authentic French dining experience. We found that plus a bit of history in Auberge Etchegorry, just a short walk from our hotel, as a perfect option. 

Located in the 13th, just a 5 minute walk from Place d'Italie Metro station, or from our Rive Gauche Marriott, Auberge Etchegorry sits in the charming Gobelins area on a quiet cobblestone street over looking a park. A former cabaret, it offers a step back in time with its original setting, its red and flowery facade and period decoration. 

According to history and legend,  the house was frequented by Victor Hugo, Chateaubriand and Beranger and was then called the Cabaret of Madame Gregoire. 

The bar features a mural painting of the eighteenth century Cabaret of Mrs. Grégoire. The restaurant and adjacent hotel du Vert Galant have been in the same family for 6 decades.

Today, Auberge Etchegorry ("Red House" in Basque) is known for its Southwestern specialties: Chipirons in ink and pequillos stuffed with cod, homemade pudding with caramelized apples, paupiettes duck with foie gras, sweetbreads, scallops scented with morels, terrine of foie gras marinated with Jurançon.

There are but a couple of al fresco tables out front, a small dinning room adjacent the bar on the ground floor, and a small dining room looking out over the treetops on the second floor.

Three of us feasted on the house specialty,  Roasted duck breast in honey and spices. One of us chose another house specialty, the seared Foie gras that looked delectable and was reported to be 'to die for'. I opted for the Foie gras terrine flavoured with Jurancon wine and toast, which was excellent. 

Our other colleague had the Hake fish with hazelnut crust, celery puree. 

Following dinner we had the cheese plate and then the Le gâteau basque. 

The portions were generous, the our server Wallace and the rest of the waitstaff were attentive and the selections were delicious, especially the Foie gras.  

Domaine Pradelle Crozes-Hermitage 2016

For our opening courses we ordered this Croze-Hermitage Syrah which went supurbly with the Foie Gras starters. This was a nice comparison to the Croze Hermitage we tasted just yesterday. In comparison, this label is a fraction of the price of the one we had yesterday and was relatively less polished and not as nicely balanced. It was enjoyable and appropriate for our none-the-less.

Deep purple in color, medium in body, with soft tannins and medium acidity, aromas and flavors of ripe black currants, blackberries, cloves, as well as freshly cracked pepper leading to a moderately long finish.

RM 87 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2925309

Château Saransot-Dupré Listrac-Medoc Bordeaux 2011

We finished with this Left Bank Bordeaux which was a nice accompaniment to our entrees, the cheeses and the dessert course. 

Dark garnet color medium bodied, complex and forward blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, earth and herbs with firm tangy tannins on a lingering finish. A nice value QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1721984

French Wine and Dine experience - Parisien business dinner

French Wine and Dine experience - Parisien business dinner

For a valued customer and partner meeting, we dined near the client site in the business district of Paris-La Défense, in the heights of the Puteaux neighborhood at La Escargot 1903. 

In the Paris-La Défense area, it is less than 10 minutes from the Porte Maillot and 5 minutes from the Pont de Neuilly-sur-Seine. The restaurant is situated in a cottage-house atop the hill above the train, a short one block walk from the station.

The restaurant held a Michelin Star, earned under the leadership of young Paolo Boscaro, then lost it when he left to head the brigade of the Swiss restaurant of Anne-Sophie. The post has now been taken over by Chef Yannick Tranchant, (formerly La Grande Cascade and Neva) who is working to restore it to earlier prominence and achievement. 

We dined on the Menu du Chef, a six service selection, and a flight of accompanying wines from the wine list. 

The wine flight from the winelist:  

The food courses and accompanying wines:

Egg, peas, bacon

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2016 

I asked for the St Joseph but they were out and substituted this label instead. This is exactly the style and profile that I was seeking.

From the vineyards of Crozes Hermitage that surround the hill of Hermitage, though they do not rise as high, nor are they on the steepest slopes. The difference between the wines of Crozes Hermitage and Hermitage is mainly the soil, as one comes down the Hermitage slopes the soil profile changes from hard granite rock to denser, sandier, clay rich soils.

Alain Graillot has been producing wines since 1985. Born in the Northern Rhône, he left to pursue a career in business, but returned home to his dream of creating great wines. Without the opportunity of stepping into an existing family winery, Alain undertook formal studies in Burgundy while seeking the guidance and inspiration of the best of the new generation of winemakers including Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac. He has 15 hectares of vineyards in Crozes Hermitage as well as 1 hectare in St-Joseph. He matures his red wines in one year old french oak barrels from Burgundy.

Bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, notes of floral and violets, black berry and dark plums fruits with silky smooth tannins.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2866234

Whitefish

Damien Laureau Savennières Les Genêts Val de Loire 2014

The Savennières appellation, including its ‘Grand Cru’ sub-appellations of Roche Aux Moines and Coulée de Serrant, is planted with 156 hectares of vineyard (100% Chenin Blanc) and produces some of the most noble and age-worthy dry white wines of France. Damien Laureau is widely acclaimed as one of Savennières’ top producers.

Often referred to as one of the appellation’s ‘new’ superstars, Damien has 20 vintages of experience. Coming from a family farming background, he started out working with his uncle at a small vineyard in Anjou in the mid 1990s.

By 1999 he had acquired his first vines in Savennières and in 2006 he abandoned the Anjou appellation to focus specifically on Savennières. Since then has gradually increased his vineyard sources through both acquisition and leasing, to the still very boutique total of 8.5 hectares.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, lively acidity highlights notes of green apple, pear and hints of peach, floral, and crushed stone, turning to a long finish of spice, tangy acid and minerality.

RM 88

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2514316


 

Pork

Xavier Monnot Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Fussière Côte de Beaune 2016

Xavier Monnot is a leading producer in Meursault. Prior to the release of the 2005 vintage, the property was known as Domaine René Monnier (Xavier's grandfather). In 2005, along with improvements in the vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label.

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42 acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. 60% of the Domaine's production is white and 40% red with several premier crus in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier maintains an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices lutte raisonnée (“reasoned struggle”).

Clos de la Fussière is a 2.6 acre block within and towards the bottom of La Fussière premier cru in Dezize-les-Maranges. It is a monopole belonging to of Xavier Monnot’s family for five generations. It is a steep, south-facing site that gives a wine that is rich, fleshy and dense.

Three villages at the southernmost end of the Côte de Beaune make up the Maranges AOC: Cheilly-lès-Maranges, Dezize-lès-Maranges and Sampigny-lès-Maranges.

Bright ruby color, medium body, vibrant floral spice and cherry fruits with dusty rose and soft smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2613365

Jean Marc Grussaute Jurançon Costat Darrer 2017

Since 2015, grape harvests at the estate of Jean-Marc Grussaute were not acceptable or sufficient for production, so fruit was sourced from neighboring winegrowers GC Pedeflous, SD Lacazette and P Vignau, hence the subtitle of the wine "the grains of friends". 

Grape variety: 20% big manseng and 80% small manseng

Winemaker Notes: This wine of pleasure is characterized by its fruity and freshness. Its assertive character remains bordered by a soft and velvety sensation on the palate and a fruity finish. Very good balance between sugar and acidity. The aromatic range always expresses ripe and exotic fruits (tangerine, grilled pineapple, mango ...)

Light honey colored, medium body, tangy stone fruit, hints of peach, tangerine and mango.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3303965

Dinesite London 34 Mayfair for classy business wine dinner

Dinesite London 34 Mayfair for classy business wine dinner

For a team dinner upon our first and only night in London, we dined across Grosvenor Square from our hotel at 34 Mayfair Restaurant in the shadow of the old US Embassy, now being completely renovated into a chic upscale hotel.

34 Mayfair is trendy, cosmopolitan, chic and vibrant with a steak and seafood menu and a superb upscale winelist – ideal for our team dinner the night before our UK customer roundtable.

Normally, I would opt for Dover sole, especially on this side of the pond, but I was intrigued by the Saltcoats Scottish beef steak, especially when colleague Alastair shared with us that it was raised from where his ‘mum’ hails, hence we opted for the local fare – each of us in the bone in ribeye (shown).

For the entrée course we ordered from the winelist a Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe which proved to be a perfect complement to our steak dinner selections.

Château Quinault L'Enclos St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2012

We have tasted this wine at the UGCB annual release tour on several occasions and hold several vintages of this label dating back to 2003. This vintage release adorns a different new branding label from our older vintages, which apparently was changed around the 2009 vintage.

This was more forward, expressive and vibrant than I ever remember for this label.

This was bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, nicely integrated and balanced, bright vibrant forward fruits of black berry, black currant, spice, notes of oak and a layer of tangy cherry on the pronounced tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1605570

Chapoutier and Laughton La Pléîade Heathcote Shiraz 2013 

For our dessert course, I was intrigued by and selected this Heathcote Shiraz, from Victoria Australia, partly due to the notable well known Rhone producer Michel Chapoutier, and this wine's Australian origin, and the distinctive creative label branding. I was previously not aware of an Australian offering from Michel Chapoutier. 

This particular label is named after the celestial constellation Pléîade, which adorns the front label solely, sans any other markings or information, save a couple wine blots. 

La Pléiade is a collaborative effort between Michel and Corrine Chapoutier and Ron and Eva Laughton. Their intent was to make a terroir driven wine out of simple land right on a clay fault in Australia. In 1990, the idea of terroir was new to that continent. 

A former food scientist, Ron Laughton and his wife Elva created their Jasper Hill estate in Heathcote, Victoria in 1975 (70 miles north of Melbourne), drawn by the region’s distinctive geology, namely an iron-rich seam of Cambrian clay on which the vineyards are strategically located.

According to the rear label, the partnership between Michael and Corrine Chapoutier and Ron and Elva Laughton is imported into the UK by Yapp Brothers Ltd, yapp.co.uk, so it is not necessarily available in the US, hence an interesting find to taste when the chance presents itself.

This may have been produced with the British or European palette in mind. At 14.0% alcohol it was much more tame and subdued than many of the big Aussie Shiraz’s imported into the US to a market favoring big bold concentrated and firmly structured fruit forward and high alcohol content wines.

Ron Laughton has a longstanding friendship with Michel Chapoutier who formed this joint venture vineyard planted with a mixture of Heathcote Shiraz and Hermitage Syrah in 1998. The resultant wine was called 'La Pleiade', named after the constellation visible from both hemispheres.

The partnership between Michel Chapoutier from France's Rhone region and Ron Laughton of the Heathcote estate, Jasper Hill was founded in 1997. Their first vintage release was in 2003. Initially called "Cambrian," "Cluster M45" is now the U.S. label for this wine, known as "La Pleiade" elsewhere. It is made from 100% Shiraz from a 20-acre single vineyard just south of Jasper Hill's Georgia's Paddock, which is planted with a 50/50 mix of vines taken from Jasper Hill and Chapoutier's vineyards (imported from France). 

 

This was garnet colored, but medium bodied with black berry fruits with notes of spices and hints of tea, leather, tobacco leaf and mineral on the moderate finish.

 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1831985

 

Amarone and Shiraz for Asian Dinner

Amarone and Shiraz for Asian Dinner

For a gala business dinner in Rotterdam with our special business partner, they took us to a local favorite Malaysian restaurant.  I selected from the winelist two wines for the meal starting with a favorite 'go-to' wine, Shotfire Australian Shiraz, and a Amarone Volpolicella from Tedesci.

Following our tasting of a Zeni 1870 Amarone the previous evening, it was interesting and fun to explore this label, a similar wine from the same vintage, 2015 Tedeschi Amarone.

Saving this more complex and sophisticated wine for the entree courses, we started with this Thorne Clark Shotfire Shiraz as our opening wine.

Thorne Clark Barossa Valley Shotfire Shiraz 2016

The name Shotfire is derived from the history of ancestor and founder James Goddard who worked in the gold mines of Barossa during the gold rush of 1870 in the Lady Alice mine. Shotfire refers to the perilously dangerous activity of setting and lighting the explosive charges used to remove the aggregate from the mines.  

I call this a 'go-to' wine as it is a high QPR (quality price ratio) priced to be an everyday wine that is dependable and pleasantly easy drinking, yet it won't disappoint when serving to others.

Its the kind of wine to keep on hand for everyday drinking with cheeses, pasta, meats, BBQ or desserts. Tonight, it provided just such as a starter wine with our early courses that was enjoyed by all.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, fruit forward, jammy sweet ripe black and red fruits with notes of mocha, vanilla and subtle oak with chewy tongue puckering tannins on the long finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2962204


Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015

This wine is made from grapes harvested in various vineyards located on hills in the Valpolicella zone (Mezzane and Tregnago hills). Tedeschi use different sources and different grape varieties so as to produce "a well-balanced wine with the fine structure that only a few single areas in the Valpolicella zone can provide".

This label is a blend of  grape varieties; 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 10% Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara, and Dindarella.

This was bright ruby red, medium full bodied with balanced and firmly structured bright notes of sweet raisiny character fruits of currants, blackberries and cherries with sprites of vanilla and earth tones with a slight tangy bitterness on the lingering persistent tannin laced finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3171907

Zeni Amarone della Valpolicellas

Zeni Amarone della Valpolicellas

Fellow Pour Boys Ernie and Lyle and I helped host and serve at the Valpolicella Wines Trade & Media Tasting Event in Chicago last November, where we were called in to service to assist in setup and serving. At this event, the Consorzios of Valpolicella and Lugana also conducted a Masterclass seminar and tasting in addition to the exclusive trade tasting of these regions’ most exceptional recent vintages. 

There, I discovered Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella Barriques. I've been on the lookout for the label ever since.

So, I was excited to see the Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico label on the winelist at the INUL8 Wine Bar in Rotterdam when out on the town with my EMEA roadshow team.

The Zeni family has been producing wines for four generations, dating back to 1870 in the area of Bardolino, Italy.

Fratelli Zeni manages about twenty hectares of its own vineyards located in the Bardolino hills. they also sources grapes from numerous local growers.

Fratelli Zeni produces the classical wines of the province of Verona; all are DOC wines : Bardolino classico, Bardolino Chiaretto classico, Soave classico, Custoza, Valpolicella classico, Amarone and Recioto.

The current proprietor Gaetano Zeni has invested in and updated the facilities and vineyards; cetnury-old wine barrels, new barrels of toasted wood, careful management of the vineyards, control of production, and updated technology all contribute to the quality and individuality of Fratelli Zeni wines.

Zeni 1870 Amarone della Valpolicella Barriques 2012

I discovered and tasted this label at the Valpolicella Wines Tasting Event in Chicago.

This was the most unique Amarone della Valpolicella I've ever tasted with its sweet spicy oak flavors infused into the wine from aging in for 12-24 months in French oak barriques. I loved it.

This label is a selection of the best grape bunches from the harvest from the hilly vineyards. The grapes are collected in small crates and left to raisin in order to achieve a high concentration of sugar, extracts, aromas and glycerine according to the Amarone custom and style the.raisining of the grapes lasts for 4 months followed by traditional skin fermentation and 20-25 days maceration, The juice is then aged in French oak barriques (large barrels) for 12-24 months adding the sweet spicy oak notes to the flavor and character of the aged wine.

This is a blend of 40% Corvina, 50% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella. The final release has an alcohol content of 15.4% vol.,

This was Garnet colored, full bodied black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by sweet spicy toasted oak and notes of vanilla, tobacco leaf, tea an leather with supple lingering tannins on the lively finish.


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3172937 


After a steak and beer dinner in Rotterdam we set out for an after dinner glass of wine and landed at 1NUL8 Wine Bar and Restaurant.

Having tasted the Zeni 1870 Amarone at the trade and industry tasting, I was captivated by this other Amarone from this producer and was eager to try it.


Zeni 1870 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015

This is sourced from the Valpolicella Classica zone, the hilly band to the north of Verona with red-brown soil with limestone-marly and basaltic sediments. This is a blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella.

The grapes are harvested as the Amarone above, hand selection of the best grape bunches coming from hilly vineyards, the grape collected in small crates and left to raisin in order to achieve a high concentration of sugar, extracts, aromas and glycerine. The difference is that for the Classico, the  raisining of the grapes lasts 2-3 months followed by traditional skin fermentation and 15-20 days maceration, and the aging lasts in oak barrels for 2-3 years, depending on the vintage. the resulting wine is alcohol content  of14.8% vol.

Bright ruby red with a garnet red tinge, medium full bodied, bright vibrant notes of black berry and bing cherry accented with notes of vanilla and hints of cocoa and spices with tangy lingering tannins on the finish.


RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3064536

https://www.1nul8.nl/

https://www.zeni.it/en/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/pour-boys-work-volpolicella-lugana.html

La Scolca Gavi Bianco Secco Cortese

La Scolca Gavi Bianco Secco Cortese for Mediterranean Sole Seafood Dinner

Stopping over in Frankfurt on our European tour, we walked down to the Frankfurt City Center to the famous Fressgass'in near the Opernplatz (Opera Place) for dinner at Garibaldi Restaurant where they serve authentic Italian and fresh Mediterranean cuisine. Garibaldi have an extensive wine list of Italian wines from simple every day wines to ultra premium legendary classic labels such as Tignanello, Guado Al Tasso, Ornellaia, Bondi Santo, Sassicaia and Masseto,

I had one of my favorite seafood dishes that I will order whenever it is available, grilled Sogliola Seezunge (Sole) with potatoes and seasonal vegetables. It was perfectly prepared and delicious.

To accompany my dinner I selected a simple light Italian white wine, La Scolca Gavi Bianco Secco.

Gavi La Scolca Bianco Secco Cortese 2017

From young, this is produced from 100% Cortese grapes grown in the "high hills" of Rovereto. This is a simple every day wine from the iconic Gavi producer. A nice refreshing simple wine to complement and not overshadow the delicate fish entry.

Light pale clear, almost colorless, light body, aromas of floral, yellow apple, slight citrus note, clean and crisp, moderately dry, medium acidity and medium alcohol at 12%.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3031697

https://www.garibaldi-frankfurt.de/