Thanksgiving Feast Features Rhone Wine Flight

Thanksgiving Feast Features Rhone Varietal Blend Wine Flight

Twenty members of immediate family and dear friends gathered for our Thanksgiving feast. . For the occasion we selected a flight of Rhone varietal wines from our cellar and from son Ryan's.

We started with a aged vintage birth year selection celebrating son Alec and partner Viv joining us from NYC, a classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Following the protocol of wine tasting, we moved from lighter wines to larger more complex wines. We progressed to more recent vintage Rhone Blend selections from our recent trip to Washington State Walla Walla and Red Mountain AVA, and then moved to a Rhone varietal Blend from Paso Robles.


Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 1990

We discovered and acquired this label during our trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape back in 1998.

Nearing thirty years of age, this is nearing the end of its drinking window but still suitable for such an occasion. This is beginning to lose clarity and taking on an slight opaque tone and the garnet color taking on a sight brownish hue. We still hold three bottles from this case acquired decades ago representing son Alec's birth year, holding them for family occasions.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes, this was medium to full bodied with slight earthiness and leather fronting layers of herbs, black and green pepper that accompany the slightly subdued black cherry and black berry fruits with a hint of spice, moderate lingering tannins.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30341


https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/chateau-boisrenard-and-bbq-beef-brisket.html

Progressing in weight and complexity, this GSM Blend (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre) in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape style is from Washington State Red Mountain AVA. We visited the producer Force Majeure during our recent Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018.

Force Majeure Collaboration Series VI Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

We acquired a collection of Force Majeure wines including this vintage after meeting and hosting Force Majeure winemaker Todd Alexander and marketing, distribution and branding exec Carrie Alexander during their Chicago visit last year.  


Bright vibrant, garnet/purple in color full bodied, concentrated complex Blackberry fruits predominate with tangy red berries, tones of pepper and tar, earth and meat, hints of expresso, anise and smoke accented by nicely integrated smooth lingering dusty tannins. Another CT'er rightly noted this 'benefitted with time and warmer than cellar temps'.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1788937

The Collaboration Series has ended as Todd has taken over general management and winemaking duties and his handiwork is now coming on line; this historic label was made by James Mantone of Syncline Winery. This is a blend 47% Mourvedre, 42% Syrah and 11% Grenache.

We just received our current release of Force Majeure 'GSM' blend, Parata, that we tasted and acquired during our recent Force Majeure Vineyards and new winery facility site visit and tasting, and were eager to open it and compare but didn't get that far in our consumption. We will look forward to a comparison tasting in the future as we hold several bottles of each.

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

We continued in our flight to a bigger, heavier, more concentrated Rhone varietal blend from Paso Robles L'Aventura that Ryan brought from his cellar.

L'Aventure Côte-à-Côte Estate Paso Robles 2011

Ryan brought this Rhone Red bruiser vintage 2011 providing a mini-horizontal tasting aside the Force Majeure.

Another GSM blend, very similar in style and taste but bigger and more concentrated with a whopping 15.8% alcohol content. Amazingly approachable considering the high alcohol content.

This is the handiwork of legendary winemaker Stephan Asseo who has been making wine since 1982. After graduating from L'Ecole Oenologique de Macon, in Burgundy, France, he started his wine career when he established Domaine de Courteillac in Bordeaux, then later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion, Bordeaux. Over the next 15 years he honed his winemaking skills there.

In 1996 he embarked on a year long global search of the world's great wine regions for a great terroir when he "fell in love" with the unique terroir of Paso Robles in Central California in the rolling hills  of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range. There, Stephan began his adventure, "L'Aventure".
 
Bright garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, firmly structured, complex but nicely balanced and integrated forward fruits of ripe blackberry and red berry fruits accented by menthol, bacon fat, tones of black olive, anise and herbs with firm but well behaved silky tannins on the long finish.

RM 93 points.

This is a blend of 40% Syrah, 38% Mourvedre and 22% Grenache, similar to above but more Syrah and less Grenache.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1578540

http://www.aventurewine.com/

Later after dinner, watching a movie, we opened this big Syrah Blend from Washington State that we discovered and acquired during our Seattle Culinary and Woodinville (Washington) Wine Tour 2018. 

Long Shadows Wineries Sequel Syrah 2015

As chronicled in my recent blogpost on the Long Shadows Vintner's Collection, this is part of the portfolio of premium wines produced by legendary winemakers from around the world who are masters for their artwork with specific varietal wines.  

This Sequel Syrah is crafted by legendary Syrah winemaker John Duval, known for the leading Syrah label from Australia, Penfold's Grange. We hold a OWC (original wood case) of the 1990 Penfold's Grange, commemorating Alec's birth year. That label was Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year for the year 1993. 

Dark inky purple colored, rich, thick concentrated ripe black berry and black raspberry fruits, black pepper, smoked meat, notes of vanilla and caramel. 

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2777751

https://www.longshadows.com/

This could likely improve with some further aging as it could benefit from some time to settle and should improve with a couple more years to achieve more balance and harmony as it reaches the apex of its drinking window, which clearly will be another decade or more. With our deep cellar, we'd normally hold a bottle like this for a while before consuming but we tried it now since it is available still at Binny's, our local wine super store so we can go get some more to replace this bottle and stock up some more, (even though we're in the highest level of the Long Shadows wine club and will be receiving some in our shipment allocation; but that will be the next 2016 vintage and we'll want to hold the '15, as it is birthyear of two grandkids, Reid and Jessie.). 

Finally, late in the evening we opened this TBA dessert wine. Viv just returned from an extended trip across Europe that include visits to Budapest and Prague in the Danube River Valley. There they visited several wineries. So, I pulled this Kracher dessert wine from the Burgenland wine region in Eastern Austria which I visited back in the early 2000's.

Alois Kracher Chardonnay TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001



We hold more than a dozen labels of Kracher wines from this era. Its fun to watch quality dessert wines mature and change color over time, from straw color, to butter, then weak tea, and progressing darker and darker over time. Note this color of tea at seventeen years of age.

At their most desirable (to my taste preference) these wines are rich, thick, unctuous, and voluptuous with apricot marmalade, mango, toffee/brown sugar, and caramel notes. This may have been there at some point and perhaps passed that stage of its aging profile. If so, then it is time to drink although it will no doubt continue to age gracefully for several more years. But the rich, sweet apricot fruits nectar was gone and has turned more to a smokey charcoal layer over the fruits which were more subdued. Delightful never-the-less.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19086

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Blend

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Blend

Following our Walla Walla (Washington) AVA Wine Experience week before last, and our visits to Spring Valley Vineyards vineyards and tasting room, we opened this  Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Bordeaux Blend for a grilled steak dinner.

As written in my Spring Valley Vineyards blogpost, the branding of Spring Valley wines is based on the rich family history and heritage. The wine portfolio is comprised of labels named for family members dating back to Uriah Corkrum, who is the inspiration and namesake of their Uriah label, their Right Bank Bordeaux Blend. Their other Bordeaux Blend, a Cabernet based blend in the Left Bank style is this Frederick, named for Uriah's son, father of current vineyard owner Shari Corkrum Derby.

Meeting Dean Derby, son-in-law of Frederick was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla wine region experience. Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby started planting the first grapes at Spring Valley in 1993 and the first vintage of Estate grown and bottled Spring Valley Vineyard wines were released with the 1999 vintage.

We tasted the latest current release of this label, Frederick Red Wine Blend 2015 in the Spring Valley Vineyards tasting room there downtown Walla Walla. This evening we opened a vintage bottle from our cellar ten years older from the 2005 vintage.


Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Columbia Valley Frederick Red Bordeaux Blend 2005 -

Dark inky color, full bodied, big, firm, complex but balanced, brooding ripe sweet dark berry - blackberry & black raspberry fruit flavors, tones of cassis, spice, lead pencil - firm but smooth nicely integrated polished tannins on a full lingering finish.

As I have been writing in my blogposts on Washington wines, like many of the other high quality labels coming from the region, this represents high QPR (quality price ratio) relative to comparable wines from the stories more established Bordeaux or Napa Valley regions.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=425182

At thirteen years of age, this wine is likely at the apex of its drinking window and won't likely improve any further with age, but it should last another five years before falling off, and should be consumable for a decade yet. I wish I had more to try over that time. Pick up this label when you get a chance.

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/


 

Domaine Des Chirats Rockpile Vineyard Syrah 2013

Domaine Des Chirats Sonoma County Rockpile Vineyard Syrah 2013

This is produced by Jeff Cohn, former winemaker at Rosenblum Cellars in collaboration with Yves Cuilleron from the Northern Rhône, third generation proprietor of Cave Cuilleron founeded by his grandfather Claude Cuilleron in 1920. Yves took over in 1987 from his Uncle. The 150 acre estate produces over 430,000 bottles of wine annually. Jeff Cohn and Yes Cuilleron teamed up in 2013 to produce this wine in the historic Northern Rhône style from fruit sourced from Cohn's Rockpile vineyard. Through their collaboration they have crafted this wine in the style of a Northern Hermitage or Côte-Rôtie.

Fruit for this label is sourced from the Rockpile vineyard in the Rockpile appellation in Sonoma. Cohn calls it "a special place for Syrah". Sitting at 2010 ft. elevation, Syrah 20 plus year-old vines are grown above the fog line allowing for plenty of sun to reach full ripeness. The vineyard gets its name from the rocky soil that stresses the grapes resulting in richness and concentration. Jeff began working with the Rockpile Vineyard over fourteen years ago.

While working at Rosenblum Cellars, Jeff Cohn began his own Jeff Cohn Cellars label in 1996. His first vintage was but 75 cases in of 1996 Rhodes Vineyard Zinfandel. Production at Jeff Cohn Cellars slowly increased to over 5,000 cases annually.  In 2006 Jeff parted ways with Rosenblum to focus exclusively on his own winery, but not before crafting the 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel, which placed 3rd on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list that year. This was a milestone accomplishment not only for Jeff, but the entire California winemaking industry, the first Zinfandel to appear so high on the list, the first time for a Zinfandel from California to reach the top ten.

Jeff strives to achieve the aspects of terroir and minerality found in France's legendary historic winemaking regions in wines sourced from California fruit. He has traveled across California, from Santa Barbara to Mendocino, searching for the finest fruit and the best vineyards. Among Jeff's most important discoveries was the Rockpile region in Sonoma where he began sourcing Syrah grapes for a portfolio of wines including this label. He strives for elegant and complex wines and he believes the craggy soil of the aptly named Rockpile produces some of the most complex and distinctive minerality in all of California.

The 2014 vintage of this wine was rated 95 Points by Robert Parker.

Dark purple garnet colored, full bodied, complex and concentrated but polished and elegant, blueberry and blackberry fruits with notes of floral, anise, meaty bacon fat and spice, crisp acidity with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2320444

https://www.jeffcohncellars.com/

Family dinner features vintage Napa Cabernets Constant and Snowden

Family dinner features vintage Napa Cabernets Constant and Snowden

Bill and Beth, Bill and Jan, Freddie Constant,
Linda and your's truly

With sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill visiting from OC, we opened for a grilled tenderloin steak dinner two classic 1995 vintage Napa Valley Cabernets, Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards and Snowden.

We still hold more than a half dozen vintages of each of these wines dating back to these early releases in the mid-nineties.

Jan and Bill were with us when we visited the spectacular Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards (shown below) high atop Diamond Mountain where were hosted by the late Freddie Constant (shown right), owner, during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2011.

Constant tasting room overlooking infinity pool
with vineyards in the background

Constant is one of the oldest producing vineyards in Napa Valley and sits at the top of Diamond Mountain toward the north end of the Mayacamas Range straddling the summit separating Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west. 

We scoured the cellar for a Constant Cabernet to commemorate that visit and pulled this bottle, the oldest vintage in our collection.

To match the vintage for a mini-horizontal tasting we also pulled this 1995 Snowden from the same vintage.

Constant Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Vineyard  Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

This was the last bottle from a three bottle lot of this vintage that we acquired at auction. We acquired more recent vintages of this wine during our winery visit in 2011. Tonight we pulled the oldest vintage in our cellar as part of regular cellar management.

This bottle showed signs of recent seepage and the cork was a bit saturated so it was time to drink. This bottle showed some modest signs of diminution from age and perhaps the seepage exfiltration.

From my previous earlier tasting of this label back in 2013; "Wow, what a surprise, we had tasted this wine previously with uninspiring results. Tonight, this wine overachieved, vastly exceeding expectations. Dark purple color, medium to full bodied, full forward flavors of black berry and black cherry fruits with traces of anise and hints of tobacco, tea and leather on a lingering, moderate, soft tannin finish"

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36373


 Snowden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

To round out a mini-horizontal tasting, we selected another 1995 Napa Cab to complement and compare with the Constant above.

Like the Constant, we tasted this during a Napa Valley wine visit with the Producer. We tasted and acquired this wine during a Napa Valley visit where we met the producer Randy Snowden during a wine dinner we hosted with him at Brix Restaurant during one of our Napa Valley Wine tours back in the late 1990's.Pre-internet and digital photography, I don't have records or photos to memorialize that event.

This was remarkably holding its own at 28 years of age showing modest signs of diminution from aging, but no serious deterioration, still within its drinking window, albeit past its prime.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright floral sprites with ripe tangy black cherry and berry fruits accented with notes of leather, tobacco leaf, tea, hints of spice and oak on a moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=322981

Later we pulled another vintage 1995 from the cellar to continue or horizontal tasting, a Rosemount Balmoral Shiraz 1995.

Rosemount Estates Balmoral McLaren Vale Shiraz 1995

Like the Oracle Shiraz pulled last night after dinner, we hold more than a dozen vintages of this Australian Shiraz and as above, we pulled one of the earlier, older vintages to round out this horizontal vintage tasting.

Its been eight years since our last published tasting notes of this vintage release. While still holding its own after 23 years, this too is showing its age as the berry fruits turn to tones of raisin, fig and tobacco.

Dark full flavor, over ripe berry, raisin, notes of blueberry, plum fruit, with spice and anise. Showing age on opening but opened and softened with a long full complex finish.

This frontal assault of raisiny fruits was a bit over the top for Bill, not for the feint of heart, but the blueberry tones still reveal themselves - almost bordering on notes of a Port, this was well suited for after dinner with the dark chocolate deserts and hearty cheeses over the grilled steak.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=12022

Father-Son Steak Wine Dinner

Father Son Boy's Night Wine Steak Dinner

A wine adventure, we held a 'boy's night' Father-son (s) wine dinner. What a treat and joy to do so with all three sons in attendance. With son Sean just home from the hospital after some major stuff, now on the mend, sibling Alec came in from New York, and brother/son Ryan came over for the gathering. It was Ryan's birthday last week so we ventured down to the cellar to pull a 'birth-year' wine from the few remaining in the collection for his vintage.

We discussed the possibility of doing a 'vertical' tasting, a wine from the same label from each of their birth years. It would be possible from our cellar collection but only in larger format Magnums, obviously too much for as intimate small group tasting as it was. Notably, at some point we could, and need to do a tasting of all the kids birthyears as we have in our collection one from each, magnums of Silver Oak, Chateau Palmer and Gruaud Larose.

For the 1982 vintage we found a time-to-drink Chateau Gloria St Julien. For a near '85 we pulled a 1986 Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac. We should've pulled a '90 vintage for son Alec's birthyear but opted to stick to just the two bottles. Notably, too, remarkably, or perhaps shamefully, our cellar records show we hold more than 180 bottles in no less than 65 different labels from that vintage! Need a party or special occasion! (I am certain this number is exaggerated and doesn't reflect earlier consumption and numerous bottles 'thinned' and liquidated from the cellar at auctions when their market price points peaked during the last decade.) 

Eventually in a quest for something 'younger', we pulled a Paradigm Napa Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1994 vintage.

Later after I (Dad) went to bed, the boys pulled and tasted one of our favorite Syrah's, Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2005. Half of that bottle remains that we'll enjoy with tonight's dinner.

Chateau Gloria St Julian Bordeaux 1982

The cork on this bottle was a challenge as it was saturated and soft but initially intact. ryan used an Ahso (two pronged puller) to extract it and the bottom tip of the extended extra long cork eventually separated and remained deep in the neck. I was able to extract it using a traditional corkscrew, inserting it into the edge between the bottle and the cork and gently wedging it out.

We decanted and aerated the bottle. It was initially closed but opened after about ninety minutes. Initial indications suggested the bottle might be tainted or over the hill, somewhat murky with a brownish rust colored tinge on the dark garnet color. While it never cleared, the cherry and currant fruits revealed themselves and by the time the grilled strip steaks were ready, this was consumable, albeit past its drinking window and just hanging on for remaining drinking life. The fruits had given way to leather, black olive and earth tones. It was a worthwhile and acceptable complement to the steak, baked potato grilled asperagus.

For some reason, this was offensive and repulsive, conflicting with the chocolate silk pie. So be it.

While it was never an expensive or long lived collectable bottle, the fact we found one lurking in the cellar was fun and it contributed to the wine dinner experience. For what its worth, we didn't even have this bottle in our cellar records. We found it searching for another bottle.

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22703


Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac 1986

At 32 years this is outside its prescribed drinking window, past its prime but still approachable, remarkably holding its own, but time to drink up. Back in 2002 Parker wrote that "while this wine should age well for another two decades, it has matured faster than many of the 1986 Pauillacs".

The cork started to collapse as soon as I pressed on it but I was able to work it out, slowly rocking the 'Ahso' (two prong cork puller) between opposite sides to extract it fully. It was soft and saturated but intact.

Note the original price still affixed to the bottle, $32.99 on release back in 1989, on sale for $29.99. The pricetag tells me I obtained this at the old legendary Sam's in Chicago.

Decanted and aerated but needed a couple hours to open up, dark garnet colored, medium bodied, plum and cherry fruits initially subdued and overshadowed by leather and black olive, eventually popping with some bright vibrancy with tones of cedar and spicy clove with hints of bacon fat, pepper and anise, turning to some modest tannins on the short finish. This is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.

On release this got 97 points from Wine Spectator in 1989 and was Ranked #2 on the Top 100 Wines of 1989. Robert Parker gave it 90 points and Jancis Robinson gave it 17.5/20 points. I gave it 88 which is remarkable at this late stage of life.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=16448


Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to the winery during our Napa Wine Experience 1999. This was the or close to the inaugural vintage of this wine and is the last of the bottles we hold in our cellar of this vintage label.

This is showing remarkably well at 24 years of age showing no signs of diminution. This may be at its apex of drinkability and will no doubt not improve with further aging. But there should be no rush to consume these either. We acquired a case of this wine upon release and the remaining bottles are in perfect condition with corks and fill levels still being optimal.

Tonight was consistent with my last tasting of this vintage label date back to 8/30/2009 when I posted this. "Dark inky color. forward fruit flavors of black cherry, with a bit with earth and leather emerging over the subtle currant, ripe plum, cedar and a hint of anise on a moderate finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/03/paradigm-napa-valley-cabernet-1994.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5051

Kilikanoon Oracle Claire Valley Shiraz 2005

The boys opened this after I went to bed but left me some which we enjoyed the next evening.  I am finding these aged Aussie Shiraz's hold up for several days and may be better the day after or the day after that!

This is one of our favorite Shiraz's in our cellar collection. Shiraz is the second highest volume varietal in number of bottles in our collection after Bordeaux varietals (which includes Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), Merlot, and the 'lesser' varietals Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

Our collection of Syrahs aka Shiraz', represent Australia, Washington State, California and the French Rhone River Valley, upper and lower.

This producer, Kilikanoon was awarded Australian Wine Producer of the Year by the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) for the fifth time in eight years that Kilikanoon was internationally recognised as Australian Winery of the Year, (previously by James Halliday in 2013 and Germany’s Mundus Vini in 2010, 2017 and 2018).

This Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2005 was awarded best Shiraz in the World at the International Wine Challenge, one of three times to be so recognized, in 2001 and the 2014 Oracle Shiraz was awarded the Shiraz Trophy for best Shiraz in the world. 

Oracle is composed from select old vine fruit grown along the estate-owned Golden Hillside Vineyard in Leasingham in the Clare Valley in South Central Australia. Oracle was the first Shiraz released by Kilikanoon’s Founder and Chief Winemaker Kevin Mitchell in the inaugural 1997 vintage and has been released each year except 2011.

This 2005 was consistent with earlier tasting notes back in May and previous last entry back in 2009 when this wine was only five years old. Now three times that age, it still presents the massive blackberry liqueur accented by full bodied blueberry, notes of kirsch, expresso and hints of cinnamon and clove spices.

Dark blackish garnet colored with full body and fine grained approachable well integrated tannins on the long lingering finish. Over the years since the earlier tasting, the berry fruits are starting to give way to a notes of raisin and hints of leather.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=396281

Walla Walla AVA Wine Experience

Walla Walla AVA Wine Experience

In follow up to our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour, we planned a trip to the Columbia Valley wine country. We traveled to Walla Walla (Washington) to visit the Walla Walla AVA wine appellation there, to visit some favorite producers, and meet and discover some legendary and emerging labels. Our trip yielded new discoveries, wonderful meetings and new/renewed friendships, great wines, great food, history and spectacular scenery. It exceeded our expectations on so many levels, we can't wait to go back, and have much to look forward to on our return visit (s). Immeasurable thanks to Carrie Alexander of Force Majeure Vineyards for hosting us and making some wonderful introductions.

Carrie Alexander and Linda at Force Majeure

As I wrote recently in these pages in our Woodinville Washington Wine Tour report, Washington State wines are coming of their own achieving new heights in quality and recognition. The number of  Washington wineries has increased 400% in the last decade and has grown proportionally as a tourism industry. It is the nation's second largest wine producer. Interestingly, the area is geographically located on approximately the same latitude (46ºN) as some of the great French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy.

As we discover more incredible wines, its becoming more and more apparent that Washington State wines are on par with the top wines from the world's great wine regions. Yet, for lack of notoriety, in many cases (no pun intended), they represent some great values for great QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine buys, from casual sipping to serious collecting.

Indeed, I wrote recently in these pages about Long Shadows , a collaborative project by Allan Shoup, former leader of Chateau St Michelle where he introduced Washington State grapes to winemakers from around the world in collaboration to produce quality wines. He founded Long Shadows to produce world class premium wines in Washington. 

Shoup has recruited a top winemaker with expertise and a track record producing best in class wine in several categories or types of wine based on a varietal grape. The resulting Vintners Collection, features a Long Shadows label produced in collaboration with a legendary winemaker in each category. See my Long Shadows Wine Cellars feature for more details.

Washington State wine growing areas are now officially recognized in 14 federally designated American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), also commonly known as appellations.  The vineyards producing wine grapes in the fourteen different appellations lie in the Columbia Valley river basin that cuts through the center of the state from North to South and then turns west separating Oregon from Washington as it heads to the Pacific.

In the Walla Walla AVA, in the southeastern corner of the state, the number of wine producers in the  area has grown to over 150 and the total vineyard acreage has grown from 800 acres in 1999, to 1,300 in 2011 and nearly 3,000 in 2017. 
 
Highlights of our Walla Walla wine and dine experience were:

Visiting the Force Majeure Vineyards and new winery facility site

Rotie Cellars visit and tasting

The Wall Wines Winery visit and tasting

Spring Valley Vineyards Site visits and tasting

Gramercy Cellars tasting

Walla Walla Steak Company wine dinner

Brasserie Four French Bistro lunch and wine Force Majeure wine flight tasting

Touring downtown Walla Walla and surrounds, seeing homes to so many famous labels

The journey to get to Walla Walla County and seeing historic sites and magnificent Washington State geography

Legendary Cayuse

Rotie Cellars and Browne Tasting rooms

Mark Ryan Winery Walla Walla Tasting Room

Canoe Ridge Walla Walla Winery

Woodward Canyon Walla Walla Winery

L'Ecole Walla Walla Winery

Spring Valley Vineyards Walla Walla
Tasting Room

 

 

Watch for upcoming blogposts and updates on our tours, tastings, dining and travel discoveries and experiences.

Spring Valley Vineyards Tasting and Vineyard Visit

Spring Valley Vineyards Tasting and Vineyard Visit

During our recent wine appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region, we visited the Spring Valley Vineyards tasting room and then ventured out to the winery and vineyards. Spring Valley Vineyards is most likely the longest and deepest collection of Washington State wines in our extensive cellar collection, spanning vintages going back a decade and a half. We first discovered Spring Valley Vineyards Uriah Walla Walla (Right Rank Bordeaux) Red Blend dating back to the 2001 vintage. We still hold more than a dozen vintages dating back to the 2004 vintage in our collection.

Hence, a visit to Spring Valley was on our shortlist of winery or vineyard site visits during our Walla Walla appellation visit. We first visited their tasting room downtown Walla Walla. Spring Valley Vineyards have an extensive and growing brand of wines based on the Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot and also a Syrah.

Due to the remoteness and vast distances to many of the Washington State wineries and vineyards, it is commonplace that Washington State producers have tasting rooms retail sites in central locations. The most common site for such tasting rooms is Woodinville, Washington in suburban Seattle which advertises as having more than 130 such tasting rooms. We visited the Seattle suburb last month as part of our Woodinville (Washington) Tasting Experience.

The charming, historic small rural town of Walla Walla, in the center of the Walla Walla Valley wine region in the Southeastern corner of Washington State, is another such site with dozens of tasting rooms, including Spring Valley Vineyards.

The branding of Spring Valley wines is based on the rich family history and heritage. The land that the Corkrum, Derby, and Elvin families farms today has been farmed by the family dating back to the mid 1800’s. Current vineyard owner Shari Corkrum Derby’s grandfather Uriah Corkrum began farming in the area acquired the land now known as Spring Valley in 1910. Shari and Dean Derby planted the first grapes at Spring Valley in 1993 and the first vintage of Estate grown and bottled Spring Valley Vineyard wines were produced with the 1999 vintage. All the wines are named for ancestral members of the family going back to Uriah and Frederick and others. 

In the Spring Valley retail site tasting room, we got to taste their range of primary labels, six labels that span their primary brand. We tasted all six labels from the recent vintage. Two or three vintages were available as boxed sets of the family of labels. No library wines were on offer, or apparent in the retail tasting room.

More on the tasting room wine flight to come.

Wines tasted:

Uriah Red Wine Blend 2014 - Blend: 56% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec
Frederick Red Wine Blend 2015 - Blend: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec

Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc 2016 - Blend: 100% Cabernet Franc

Sharilee Petit Verdot 2014 - Blend: 90% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Franc

Mule Skinner Merlot 2016 - 100% Merlot

Nina Lee Syrah 2015 - Blend: 99% Syrah, 1% Viognier

The Spring Valley Vineyards and wine production facility lie about fifteen miles northeast of downtown Walla Walla. The vineyards are a stark contrast to the vast openness and plains of the surrounding wheat fields that cover the wide vast expanses of the central and eastern parts of the State. The vineyards stand out in stark contrast even on the Google satellite imagery, as shown below.

We drove out Middle Waitsburg Road, around the Walla Walla airport, to Corkrum Road, aptly named for the patriarch ancestor of the Spring Valley producer's family, to the winery and vineyard site. 

There we ran into Dean Derby patriarch, husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, ancester and co-owners of the family business. What a treat and honor to meet Mr. Derby and what a delightful visit we had.
 

The vineyard site sitting amidst over 110 acres of vineyards is open to the public from May to September during posted hours during the week, and at other times by special appointment.

The Spring Valley Vineyards from a distance down Corkrum Road. 

The Spring Valley Vineyards adjacent to the winery site

 The Spring Valley Vineyards adjacent to the winery site

The Winery Production Facility 

Much of the adventure and interest of visiting the region and the Spring Valley site is the magnificent expansive vast vistas of the surrounding hills, as shown below. 

Spring Valley Vineyards continues to expand operations with new vineyard plantings and a growing staff of family members and professionals joining the organization. It is a historic institution in the region and a label of serious quality wines to be sought out and appreciated. It should be on the shortlist of any visit to the Walla Walla appellation.




 

Walls Winery Visit During Walla Walla Wine Experience

The Walls Winery Visit During Walla Walla Wine Experience

One of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018 was a visit to The Walls Winery, and meeting former tech exec, Founder and CEO, Mike Martin.

The "Walls”, is an imaginative tribute to the Walla Walla regional name and the historic legacy of the Washington State Penitentiary there, also known as 'Concrete Mama', which looms on the outskirts of town, just down the road from some of vineyard sources for their wines.

"Like you, our wines are different."

Legend has it that in the 1880's, the young town of Walla Walla chose to site a prison, rather than a University, within its city limits. While to some this may have seemed an odd decision, to the locals of the time it was more about pride.


The Walls pays tribute to the notorious landmark that has been a cornerstone of the community dating back to 1886. Life behind the “Walls” was memorialized in the book “Concrete Mama”, nickname for the prison, published back in 1981, a compendium of photographs and stories showing the uniqueness of the place including the preponderance of motorcycles behind the gates. The classic book is being republished in an upcoming re-release.

The Walls memorialize the book and stories with a flagship wine,  'Concrete Mama', a big firm Syrah in a large oversized heavy bottle with etched label of an image of Wall's character Stanley Groovey peering over the wall.

The Walls is also a testament as a metaphor for life and the role wine plays in our existence. The owner cites: "You can’t drive into Walla Walla -- to drink wine, play golf, spend time with friends and family -- and not think about life behind those walls. This contradiction is also a personal one as walls have become metaphors in all of our lives --  we put up walls to protect our hearts, we toil within the walls of work constraints, we build walls to defend what’s important to us.

"Nevertheless, as we build walls we’re also always looking for ways we can tear them down. Wine is the river that can overflow, subvert and topple these walls. It is a powerful force in bringing people together and building true community, capturing and preserving memories of time, places and people."

Mike Martin has fun with The Walls branding and marketing. He has created a whimsical cartoonish character Stanley Groovey who adorns the building front, the tasting room, and many of the labels. We laughed at the imagery of a 'Where's Waldo' theme where the character pops up in the vineyards or him appearing dressed in red on Christmas promotions of holiday labels.

The Walls portfolio includes a broad selection of red and white wines with creative and curious names including: Curiositas, The Ramparts, Gaspard, and Stanley Groovy (from Red Mountain); Concrete Mama, and Wonderful Nightmare from the Rocks District of Milton Freewater, and Cheys, Lip Stinger, Martin’s Gold, Cruel Summer from Yakima Valley AVA, and La Lutte and McAndrew from Columbia Gorg.

The Walls source grape from the usual suspects of prime appellations' sites with distinctive terroir in the state. They are developing their own 18-acre Estate vineyard in perhaps the most distinctive place or terroir, the Rocks District of Milton Freewater, the country’s newest AVA. Wine Spectator calls this AVA “perhaps America’s most distinctive example of terroir."

The unique riverbed of cobblestones and pebbles is as much as two hundred feet deep, formed 12,000 years ago from massive floods that swept through the region caused by ruptures in the ice dam that held Montana's glacial Lake Missoula. The Rocks District is a 12-square mile alluvial fan of 3,770 acres. 

The Walls also sources grapes from Red Mountain, Yakima Valley and the Columbia River Gorge AVA's.

Yakima Valley was Washington’s first official federally-recognized AVA located along the banks of the Yakima River. The Yakima Valley AVA also has sub appellations of Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain.  There are more than 150 wineries with more than 17,000 vineyard acres planted. The Yakima Valley AVA is the largest sub-appellation of the Columbia Valley AVA both in total size and wine-grape acreage.

The Red Mountain AVA is Washington's smallest is typically the warmest growing region in Washington, with daytime averages of 90 degrees and lows dropping below 50. These fluctuations in temperatures promote sugar accumulation with the day’s heat while cool nights promote balanced acidity. Red varietals are dominate in the AVA’s where the sweltering slopes are well-known for Rhone varietals on the upper slopes and Bordeaux varietals on the lower blocks near the valley floor.

The Columbia River Gorge AVA straddles the Columbia River for a stretch of about 15 miles, including 280 square miles in the Cascade foothills above the Columbia River Gorge, near Hood River, Oregon. The Columbia River Gorge is a unique geological site where the mighty Columbia River flows approximately 80 miles from one side of the Cascade Mountain Range to the other. It is the only such passage through any major mountain range in the Western Hemisphere.

The climate and terrain of the wine producing appellation are similar to the French wine regions of Burgundy and the northern Rhone Valley. The cool western end of the Gorge produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; further east provides Pinot Gris and warmer-weather red grapes such as Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernets and Barberas as well as white Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Viogniers.

Wines tasted:

The Walls McAndrew White Salmon Vineyard Columbia Gorge Chardonnay 2016

This wine is a tribute to 'Doc' William McAndrew, Seattle Surgeon who first planted grapes on Underwood Mountain in the Columbia Gorge in 1972.

This is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from cuttings from Doc’s original plants and is made in a crisp, fresh style using the finest concrete tanks imported from Burgundy. Walls offer it both in his memory and with his “if you can dream it, do it” spirit.

The Walls The Ramparts Red Rhone Blend 2015 - A Southern Rhone Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend of Grenache (52%), Mouvedre (32%), Counnoise (13%), and Syrah (3%). This is a tribute to the walled city of Avignon, just south of the Chateaunuef-du-Pape appellation, Les Ramparts d'Avignon were built by Medievel Popes to ward off mercenaries.

This wine began as an experiment with this vintage. Walls took what is sometimes called a GSM blend but blended in an otherwise higher percentage of Mourvedre and added another Southern Rhone CDP varietal Counoise resulting in further layers of complexity. They confined it - protecting it - within the cool walls of a concrete tank for three months, producing a favorite wine with dark fruit and wet stone balanced by a light body with bright hints of fresh plum and lilac. The 2015 Ramparts earned a gold medal in the 2018 Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition.

The Walls Gaspard Red Mountain Syrah 2015 - Winemaker Ali writes: "A Legend has it that in 1224 a Knight named Gaspard, wounded and weary from the battles of the Albigensian Crusade, was given permission by the Queen of France to recover atop a granite peak in the storied Hermitage. Through with bloodshed, Gaspard became a hermit but was soon joined by others seeking similar refuge. Together, they began to tend the area’s mythical vines. “It’s crazy to think that almost 800 years ago, a hermit on a hill walled himself off from the world and in doing so, inspired this wine.”

The Walls Curiositas Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 - This was my absolute favorite of the flight. Of course I tend to favor Bordeaux varietals  but I found this especially appealing.

The fruit for this was sourced from the Obelisco Vineyard on the higher slopes of the Red Mountain AVA. The vines get increased exposure to the sun and are planted in higher density to further stress the grapes. The result is a wine of great complexity but one that is elegant and lush, yet subtle with tones the winemaker describes as possessing 'freshness that evokes a Margaux-styled fragrant' Cabernet' I grabbed a case of this and am eager to try it home and share with my wine buddies and friends with grilled steak. 

The Walls Stanley Groovey Red Mountain Red Wine 2015 -  This is a complex unique blend of 55% Touriga Nacional, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% Souzao, 9% Tinta Cao, 1.5% Tempranillo. While I would not call this the 'signature' wine of The Walls, it is their namesake wine, named for their signature branded character.

They whimsically write about this wine:

"You may not have heard of Stanley Groovy, and that’s OK. We’ll tell you he’s a strange -- but delightful -- guy, much more complex than he lets on, despite his “regular guy” exterior. Inside, he’s groovy -- just like the wine in this bottle. Trying to describe this wine is like trying to describe the inside of the fine artist’s mind; you may say you “get it” but really, no one gets it. And this is why what’s in this bottle will remain in generalities - simple on the outside, complex and groovy on the inside.'

The complexity and uniqueness of the wine is indicated by the diverse varied blend of varietal grapes from Portugal accenting Cabernet Sauvignon, the principle grape of Bordeaux.  

The Walls continue, in describing this wine: "Stanley Groovy isn’t afraid to stray from the crowd — he's different and he knows it, just like the wine in this bottle. Cabernet Sauvignon lends depth and complexity while intense Portuguese varietals bring a whole lot of groovy. The result? A wine that celebrates the beauty of being “different” — something Stanley is proud to lend his name to.'

The Walls 'Concrete Mama' Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2015 - This is a blend of 91% Syrah from the Stoney Vine Vineyard and 9% Grenache from the River Rock Vineyard from the Walla Walla AVA.

This is the second vintage of this label, named for the State Penitentiary near the winery on the outskirts of town, bearing the same nickname as this wine, 'Concrete Mama'.

The Walls draws the comparison between the two:

"In the 1880's Walla Walla chose to site a prison, rather than a University, within its city limits.
While to some this may have seemed an odd decision, to the locals of the time it was more about pride.'

"Walla Wallans were not ones to shy away from hard work; in fact, the harder the work the greater the sense of community pride. “Concrete Mama” still sits sentinel above our little town. Life is hard inside her walls, but for those who make it out, a new beginning beckons. This wine bears her nickname because nature’s struggle of transforming these Rocks District grapes into fine wine took place within similar walls of concrete, with loads of hard work and great community pride. Concrete Mama leaves these Walls full of promise. All you have to do is give it a chance on “the outside”.'
This is dark inky purple plum and ruby colored, big, bold and concentrated dense rich ripe black currant and black raspberry fruits accented by layers of olive tapenade, tobacco and pepper.

RM 94 points.

https://www.thewallsvineyards.com/