Pichon Lalande 89 and 98

 Pichon Lalande 89 and 98

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1989, 1998

For a grilled New York strip steak dinner at Bill and Beth's, Bill served this '98 vintage classic, and I brought along a '89 for comparison and complementary tasting. This may be my last bottle of a case I bought back upon release of this label.

Fittingly, this '89 served as a further tribute to B & B's son Matt as a birth year vintage, commemorating his recent wedding when Bill served classic birth year wines.

This Pichon Lalande duo presented amazing consistency in character and tasting profile between two diverse vintages and presented all the classic flavors reminding me why it is one of my favorites of all Bordeaux.

Dark garnet colored, starting to show a slight brownish rust hue due to aging, medium full bodied, complex yet perfectly balanced, each exhibited classic nose of a fine cigar, earth, floral, tones of cassis, graphite and hint of menthol and smoky oak. The 98 was a bit more bright and vibrant in its expression of the fruit, while the 89 was a bit more subdued and slightly closed. Both finished with smooth graceful silky lingering tannins.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1372

More to follow ...

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah 2009

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah 2009

Like earlier tastings, I pulled this full throttle Columbia Valley Shiraz to accompany bbq rib dinner.  I've raved about this wine several times in this blog, talking about the high QPR (quality price ratio) that can occasionally be found in negociant private label wines. Of course the challenge is that often they are 'one hit wonders' since there is no guarantee of follow up vintages of the particular label. 

I've stated that this may be one of our favorite drinking wines in our cellar right now, certainly at this price point!  

This is still holding its own at seven years of age.

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

As usual, we saved a couple glasses to try later and this was even better the next day. It was awesome with the spectacular Sunday Brunch Linda prepared - French Strawberry Crepes, grilled filet steak with blue cheese and fresh avocado, and fresh Peach puree fizz (below), enjoyed on the deck.

 

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Shiraz 2004

Branson Coach House Barossa Greenock Block Single Vineyard Shiraz 2004

For dinner on the patio at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria on a perfect summer evening, we took this big bold Aussie Shiraz, BYOB.

I discovered and tasted this wine with Wine Manager Bill and the Aussie wine buyer at the wine desk at Binny's in Glen Ellyn back upon release. I liked it so much I bought their entire allocation which was only a couple six packs. Tonight I broke open that last remaining case from that purchase. At a dozen years of age, this is aging gracefully, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever.

Dark inky purple color, full bodied, full aromas and flavors of black fruits, a hint of raspberry and blueberry, accented by tones of graphite & mineral on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

Double Diamond Amber Knolls Cabernet 2002

Shrader Double Diamond Lake County Beckstoffer Amber Knolls Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Pulled this from the cellar to enjoy with grilled steak and baked potato and sweet corn dinner - a perfect complement.

This is the second label of the classic super premium Shrader brand/collection. This is from the Amber Knolls Vineyard up in Lake County, over the hill from Howell Mountain to the northeast from Napa Valley, not to be confused with the Oak Knolls district in southwest Napa.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, forward expressive, slightly obtuse, black berry fruits, smokey black creosote tones with hints of black licorice and touch of dark cocoa with modest tight tannins.

RM 90 points. 

http://www.schradercellars.com/content/double-diamond

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14835

Force Majeure Washington State Red Mountain Syrah 2013

Force Majeure Washington State Red Mountain Force Majeure Vineyard Syrah 2013

We obtained this bottle of Force Majeure Red Mountain Syrah 2013, sourced from the Force Majeure vineyard from the winemaker Todd Alexander during his promotional tour to Chicago a couple weeks ago.

We met Todd and his wife Carie at the Italian Village Restaurant in Chicago where we introduced them to Jared Gelband, Wine Director there, (shown left), who gave us a tour of the historic legendary cellar.

I featured Todd and Force Majeure winery and vineyards in my blogpost following our meeting. We were holding this bottle for a special occasion or select time to taste the wine in a suitable setting. 

This is the first vintage to reflect Todd's craftmanship of the Estate fruit based wines which will no doubt continue to be refined and fine tuned with each subsequent vintage. He is looking to produce Northern and Southern Rhone style wines based on varietals from that region including Syrah, and Bordeaux style wines from applicable varietals.  

Tonight, we opened this bottle to enjoy on the deck with dinner of grilled bbq ribs, fresh sweet corn and summer salad.

This was dark inky blackish purple in color, with full bodied, thick chewy black berry and black raspberry fruits. The fruits were overtaken by tones of metallic tin, like that often found in Southern Australia Barossa Syrahs and some Washington State Syrahs. This tended to detract from the fruit and accent highlights perhaps indicating we drank this too young and that it needs time to settle and better integrate. We of course didn't want to hold this longer since it was provided to us for the purpose of tasting and sharing our observations.

The slightly astringent forward fruit provided a mouth puckering tongue coating with tangy tannins that lingered on a long finish.

As we tend to do, we save some wine to taste the next day. This was slightly more approachable after being open an extended period of time.

This was a perfect complement to the tangy bar-be-cue baby back ribs. 

We drink lots of Shiraz/Syrah, mostly from Australia, as well as Syrah blends from the Southern Rhone.  This wine came across as less balanced and polished than the finer Aussie Syrahs, but was more full, thicker and bigger than many Rhones. I think that in years with more ripening of the fruit, this may show more polish and balance and result in a top notch premier Syrah, rivaling the best from both regions.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2084823

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

Long Vineyards Napa Cabernet 1999

Long Vineyards Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon1999

We pulled this from the cellar for a grilled steak dinner.

Named for Bob and Zelma Long, Long Vineyards was established in 1977 on 120 acres up on the slope of Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Range on the east side of Napa Valley looking down on the Oakville appellation. The property is just south of Lake Hennessey and north of the Stags Leap district.

The area had been planted in vines since the earliest Italian immigrants arrived in the 1880s. The vines are planted at elevations ranging from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea level. The Longs were among the first Napa Valley vintners to ferment Chardonnay in oak barrels.

The vineyards are down at the base of Long Ranch Road which leads up to David Arthur vineyards and winery at the end of the road high at the top of Pritchard Hill overlooking Napa Valley (shown below). All indications are that the winery is no longer in operation and the vineyards are being managed by others for production under new different labels.

Our visit to David Arthur was one of the highlights of our Napa Wine Experience back in 2013.

David Arthur was named for the grandfather of the owner/producer, which is a family affair consisting of three generations of the Long family, who over the years acquired the mountain land to raise cattle. Today it is operated by brothers David and Bob along with Joye Long are co-owners, with David acting as General Manager and his daughter Laura runs the office and daily operations. 

David Arthur Vineyards at the top of Long Ranch Road
on Pritchard Hill

This was better than a bottle of the same label and vintage that we had a back in 2011 when I wrote in my tasting note, "Starting to show its age as the dark garnet color has taken on a tinge of brown forming at the rim".

This bottle was holding much better and did not show signs of diminution from aging. The fruit was holding and showing nicely with the same taste profile as before. This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied; black cherry and black currant fruit flavors give way to smoke, leather, earthy cedar and hints of cassis on the tangy finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=95144

Coopers Hawk Australian Shiraz NV

Coopers Hawk Australian Shiraz NV

With sister Jan and her daughter Jenna back from OC Cal to visit mom and me, we met for a mini-family reunion for lunch at Cooper's Hawk Restaurant and Wine Bar in Burr Ridge.

Cooper's Hawk has grown exorbitantly from their modest location in Countryside to now eight locations in Illinois, seven in Florida, a pair in Indiana, and more in Maryland, Missouri, Ohio, Virginia and Wisconsin. Their approach is an up-beat quality dining experience serving a broad selection of foods paired with a broad selection of wines. Their wines are all private labeled, sourced from grape growers around the globe, then vinted and bottled under their own branding, usually NV or non-vintage designated wines.

Cooper's Hawk wines generally are moderately priced and reasonable QPR - quality price ratio, appealing to the general marketplace, casual or non-sophisticated wine consumer. The selection is broad and offers all the styles of wine from sweet to dry, red, white, rose, sparkling and dessert wines. They market and promote a wine club and offer special bottlings for club members who also are rewarded for frequent dining. They appeal to a wide audience and are enjoying immense popularity to budget conscious frequent diners.

Our kid's Erin and Johnnie are members and frequent diners as their location in the trendy Burr Ridge Town Centre is near their home. We enjoy family dinners there due to their decent value and broad selection that offers something for everyone.

Today we tasted and then ordered a bottle of their feature selection of the month, this Australian Shiraz, branded as part of their 'International Collection'. This wine of the month selection purports on the label that the fruit was "sourced from the top vineyards in Australia and crafted exclusively for our (sic) Wine Club members."

Readers of these pages know we drink a lot of wines including a lot of Australian Shiraz. I sampled this the glass and supported ordering a bottle to accompany our meal. The painted label and citation on the rear of the bottle states, "Our Australian Shiraz is deep black purple in color and offers a mind boggling bouquet of violets, licorice, blackberries and blueberries. The wine is rich, opulent and full bodied with spice, dark fruit flavors and notes of chocolate and pipe tobacco." While I agree with their assessment of the taste profile for this wine, I might dial down the hyperbole of their qualitative assessment of the tasting experience.  They cite, "The beautifully balanced palate shows layers of sweet concentrated fruit and texture with fine-grained tannins for a long and elegant finish."

I'll let their review stand and give the wine 90 points, high praise indeed, a high QPR at their published price point of $20 per bottle.

http://www.chwinery.com/

While this is one of the better selections we have had from Cooper's Hawk, since this is a NV, non-vintage, private label bottling, there is no assurance this wine will be reproduced again to this same style or standard. Hence, each encounter there is somewhat hit or miss. Their typical consumer and diner may not be sufficiently discriminating to detect the variation over time, or care. But that's part of the adventure of the Cooper's Hawk dining and wine experience!

Haan Prestige vs Flinders Run Shiraz

Haan Prestige vs Flinders Run Shiraz

For midweek casual easy sipping with cheese, dark chocolate and berries, we enjoy big bold Aussie Shiraz. Last week and this, we opened these two - Haan Prestige and Flinders.

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006 

We love this wine and consider it a benchmark representation of Southern Australian Shiraz at its very best, and at a pricepoint between $25-35 it offers a relative great QPR (Quality to Price ratio). I wish I could find more of it. Not sure what happened to Flinders Run. It appeared on the market selectively for these vintages and we haven't see it since. We acquired several cases when we discovered this and we've broken into the last one with this bottle. As it ages it has taken on a darker riper raisiny profile with tones of creosote and tin - flavors that Linda favors but are a bit over the top for my liking.

Like earlier comparison tasting of varied big reds, this continues to be a big hit. Consistent with earlier notes, the 2006 Flinders is dark inky purple, full bodied, powerfully scented bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and fresh flowers bursting with flavors of thick chewy black raspberry, blueberry and cassis with layers of nut, vanilla and hints of mocha flavors on a tongue coating lingering finish with tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'. As much as we like this wine, the 2005 may be even better, being more polished, smoother and more balanced.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

Haan Prestige Barossa Estate Shiraz 2003 

Not a fair fight perhaps as this is a lesser version of the Flinders above in all respects, not as bold, expressive, fruit filled, forward or flavorful. Never-the-less it is a nice casual sipping Shiraz. Such is the bar that is set with the Flinders.

This is medium bodied, spicy, earthy leathery super ripe black berry fruit, touch of menthol, hint of vanilla on a long spice finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=174207

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/05/hall-and-keenan-napa-cabernet-duo-haan.html

Dunn & Beaucastel for Family Reunion Dinner

Dunn & Beaucastel for Family Reunion Dinner

For family reunion dinner featuring sockeye salmon, ribs and beef tenderloin, Bro-in-law Bill and #1 Son Ryan pulled two classic favorites from the cellar. For this special gathering with Bill and sister Jan visiting from So-Cal OC, to accompany the ribs, Ryan selected Chateau Beaucastel CDP, while Bill selected Dunn Napa Valley Cabernet for the tenderloin. For a mini-horizontal comparison we selected the 1998 vintage release of each label. Both wines seemed to be not only ready-to-drink, but at the prime apex of their drinking windows. 

For Bro-in-law Bill and sister Jan, the Dunn offered a replay of daughter Krysta's gala wedding reception dinner when they served Dunn Napa Cab.

We visited Dunn together during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. Here we are with Randy Dunn, shown left.

According to my cellar records, we hold twenty-one vintages of this label (including the Howell Mountain) dating back to 1981. We're holding on to these vintages because of their long lived aging potential.

Dunn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Randy Dunn's wines are legendary for their long lived aging and this was another testament to that legacy. While Cellartracker shows the drinking window for this vintage to be out to 2014, I thought this was delicious and appeared to be still at its prime, showing its age but not yet showing serious effects of diminution.

While the 1998 Napa vintage was panned and overshadowed by what I feel in retrospect was the over-rated 1997, once again, as with many previous tastings, the '98 was drinking very nicely and over-achieved against the vintage reviews.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, earthy, floral, graphite and oak highlight the black currant and black berry aromas and flavors. Echoing comments from fellow CellarTracker tasters, a hint of sweetness with moderate, dusty tannins, more on the Bordeaux side but with a Napa sweetness.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7961

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape  1998

Ryan selected this CDP - Chateauneuf du Pape to accompany the bbq baby back ribs. A visit to Chateau Beaucastel, one of the premier producers in the appellation, was one of the highlights of our Southern Rhone Wine Experience back in 1998. We may have tasted this wine from barrel samples during that winery and cellar tour (shown left),

Our cellar records indicate we hold a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the 1978 vintage.

This was an instance where a comparison tasting may have taken the luster off this wine as it was overshadowed by the bigger, bolder, more expressive Dunn.

Ruby colored, almost opaque, medium bodied, nicely balanced, complex but smooth and polished, aromas and flavors of black cherry fruits accented by tones of spice, herbs, tobacco leaf, hints of black pepper and whisper of anise.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2201

Quilceda Creek Robert Craig Affinity Cabernet 1997

Quilceda Creek and Robert Craig Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

For a family gathering summer dinner on the deck I pulled two 1997 vintage Cabernets - Quilceda Creek and Robert Craig Affinity. We prepared grilled sockeye salmon and filets of beef.

Quilceda Creek Washington Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

I know our cellar is ideal for long term storage and aging when I pull a bottle like this that we've held for close to twenty years and the fill level and cork are perfect. The cork looked liked it was pulled from a brand new bottle to which son Ryan noted this premium label likely uses highest quality corks.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied. full dark berry and floral bouquet, smooth silky texture, nicely balanced, black berry fruit accented by tones of oak, spice and tobacco leaf with a long smooth soft tannin polished finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=379






 Robert Craig Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon 1997


We hold over twenty vintages of this wine dating back to the inaugural 1993 vintage. This is one of last bottles of a case of the 1997 vintage we acquired from the winery upon release. We have visited Robert Craig on several of our trips to Napa Valley and Robert has been featured at several of or wine producer dinners and other tasting events.

The brand has been recently taken over by new leadership and one of their moves has been to raise the price point of this legendary label. Robert was always proud of the QPR - Quality Price Ratio he maintained for this blend of fruit from what he called 'three mountains and a valley'. It is now selling for $65 per bottle and its previous price point of $50 has been taken over by a Napa Valley Cabernet. Of course these older vintage bottles were acquired back in the nineties for less than $40.

My last tasting note entry from last fall is below.

While it likely will not improve further with age, it seems to still stand at the apex of its drinking window and shows no sign of diminution whatsoever. This was slow to open and reveal its fruit and needed about of hour to unwind from its tight closed opening.

My previous tasting note back in 2012 cited 'this wine is more expressive than early in life showing lingering fruit and staying power'. According to those notes, this showed even better tonight with more balance and polish than that tasting. At this stage of life, that could be an indication of bottle variation but no so likely since the bottles share the same provenance.

Dark purple garnet colored, medium bodied, forward bright vibrant black berry and black raspberry fruits to tones of black tea and hints of cassis and smoke on a smooth moderate lingering tannin finish.

My previous tasting note from 2012 - Rich medium full bodied. A bit tight, fruit filled with black currant, black berry, raspberry, cassis with a slight bit of astringency, hints of black pepper and smoke with silky tannins on the finish. (82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc). This wine is more expressive than early in life showing lingering fruit and staying power.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=29715

Gala Celebration Dinner features classic Birthyear Vintage Napa Cabs

Gala Celebration Dinner features classic Birthyear Vintage Napa Cabs


I've written often in these pages about special wines for special occasions. One of the ultimate wine vintage events is pouring birth year wines for a life event such as a wedding. So it was that wine buddy and fellow 'Pour Boy' Bill C. featured 1989 vintage wines for son Matt's wedding rehearsal dinner. Bill selected two classic premium vineyard designated Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons - Diamond Creek Lake Vineyard and Silver Oak Bonny's Vineyard, that each reflected diverse terrior, styles and characteristics. Each with its own style complemented perfectly the salmon and filet of beef dinner and chocolate dessert. Both were served from large format magnums.

Our visit to Diamond Creek winery up on Diamond Mountain above Calistoga was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2008.

The stylish tasting room (left) overlooking the three vineyards is one of the most magnificent settings in Napa Valley and is one of the Valley's premiere tasting experiences.

The winery was founded in 1968 by Boots (shown left) and the late Al Brounstein who defied conventional practice of the times and planted California's first exclusively Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Vineyards on secluded Diamond Mountain.

The three vineyard designated select labels each represented their distinctive micro-climates and terroirs and became legendary in their long lived quality complex, deep and rich Cabernets.

Then there is also the Lake Vineyard (shown left), a tiny ¾ acre vineyard nestled adjacent to a lake that sits on the property, It is the coolest of the property's micro-climates because of the cool Pacific breezes that travel down the Russian River corridor each afternoon. 

The Lake Vineyard grapes require a long hang time to ripen, and when they do ripen, they make an exceptional wine.

Lake Vineyard wines are only produced in exceptional vintage years. In fact, they have been produced only 16 times since 1972.

Diamond Creek Lake Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

Showing its age at 27 years, the color was starting to show a bit of brownish rust hue on the garnet medium bodied base. The black cherry fruit flavors have given way to tones of leather, tobacco leaf and anise on the slightly astringent core that gives way to moderate clinging lingering tannins.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=136257

More to come ..





Silver Oak Bonny's Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

Bonny's Vineyard was the site adjacent to the proprietor's residence and named for his wife. It was the only vineyard designated label from this classic popular producer. The label was discontinued two vintages later, the 1991 vintage being the last.

The trademark character and taste profile of this wine is the oak tones infused into the wine from aging in oak barrels. Even after several hours of having tasted this wine, that predominant oak flavor still lingers in my mouth and even on my breath, like the taste of a fine cigar. This was dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied with complex berry fruit flavors that had been overtaken by the layer of oak, with hints of dill notes attributable to the oak and not the fruit. Firm but smooth tannins lingered on the long finish.

RM 90 points.

Italian Village appoints Jared Gelband Wine Director

Italian Village appoints Jared Gelband Wine Director ... to restore cellar to historic eminence ...

The historic Italian Village restaurant, a Chicago landmark since 1927 has appointed Jared Gelband as its new Wine Director. Jared has worked the Chicago fine dining and wine scene for more than a dozen years for such well known establishments as Chicago Prime, Del Frisco's and others.

The Italian Village wine cellar holds a Best of Excellence Award from Wine Spectator Magazine, one of the most esteemed benchmarks in the restaurant market, with over thirty thousand bottles of more than a thousand different wine selections.

Italian Village actually consists of three different restaurants in one site and the wine cellar serves all three restaurants at its location at 71 West Monroe opposite the Chase Bank Tower plaza in the center of loop.

The three restaurants each have their own chef, kitchen and waitstaff. Italian Village continues to be operated by the founding Capitanini family, who today are represented by the second and third generation descendants of the founder Alfredo Capitanini and is the oldest continuously operating Italian restaurant in Chicago.  The three dining rooms that make up Italian Village represent three different cuisines and dining experiences - the flagship Italian Village with its classic traditional Northern Italian cuisine within the quaint atmosphere of an Italian village. The trendy chic Vivere showcases a start-to-finish approach to everything on the menu, from house- and hand-made pasta in a modern Chicago landmark contemporary dining room designed by Jordan Moser, full of unique shapes and angles in a stylish feel ideally suited for the forward-thinking haute cuisine, while La Cantina, features the classic menu, hospitable ambience and service at The Village.

Jared, a native of suburban Chicago sees this as a break through opportunity to build on the solid foundation of the wine program, and to restore it to its earlier eminence when it held the highest Grand Award. He intends to capitalize on the extensive inventory investment in Italian, Bordeaux and selective American wines, expand its global coverage, modernize the operations, and adopt social media and other promotions to showcase the world class selection, great values, and rare wines, all complementing great authentic food in a setting for all occasions.

Jared loves life in the cellar which serves as his office where he spends his days researching new wines, managing the inventory, and updating the extensive wine list to pair wines to showcase the cuisine and menu's of each of the three restaurants while offering wines for all tastes and budgets.

Dining hours and evenings are then devoted to promotion, serving as Sommelier and assisting the dining and bar staff in the property's three restaurants. While each restaurant boasts in own kitchen, chef and waitstaff, the cellar serves all three dining operations.

See the updated Wine Cellar feature on the updated Italian Village website.

On this day, we were meeting Todd Alexander, Winemaker from Force Majeure Vineyard and Winery in Red Mountain, Yakima/Columbia Valley Washington. Visiting Chicago with his wife Carrie, Marketing Director for Force Majeure on a promotion tour, we met at Italian Village to bring together two emerging voices and forces in wine and fine dining to share offerings, visions, plans, and to explore synergies and opportunities for collaboration.

Jared gave all of us a tour of the Italian Village cellar and uncovered and showcased from its extensive thirty thousand bottle collection of deep selections in classic Italian's, rare Bordeaux, as well as several premier wine's from Todd's previous endeavors such as Bryant Family wines in Napa Valley.

Watch for upcoming wine and dine tasting journal reports on Italian Village.

http://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/

Jared with Force Majeure winemaker
Todd Alexander

Showing wine treasure vintage Chateau Petrus.

Todd Alexander and Bryant Family selection
from Italian Village cellar.

A day at the office for Jared Gelband, in Italian Village
cellar with Todd and Carrie Alexander and author.

Italian Village appoints Jared Gelband Wine Director

Italian Village appoints Jared Gelband Wine Director ... to restore cellar to historic eminence ...

The historic Italian Village restaurant, a Chicago landmark since 1927 has appointed Jared Gelband as its new Wine Director. Jared has worked the Chicago fine dining and wine scene for more than a dozen years for such well known establishments as Chicago Prime, Del Frisco's and others.

The Italian Village wine cellar holds a Best of Excellence Award from Wine Spectator Magazine, one of the most esteemed benchmarks in the restaurant market, with over thirty thousand bottles of more than a thousand different wine selections.

Italian Village actually consists of three different restaurants in one site and the wine cellar serves all three restaurants at its location at 71 West Monroe opposite the Chase Bank Tower plaza in the center of loop.

The three restaurants each have their own chef, kitchen and waitstaff. Italian Village continues to be operated by the founding Capitanini family, who today are represented by the second and third generation descendants of the founder Alfredo Capitanini and is the oldest continuously operating Italian restaurant in Chicago.  The three dining rooms that make up Italian Village represent three different cuisines and dining experiences - the flagship Italian Village with its classic traditional Northern Italian cuisine within the quaint atmosphere of an Italian village. The trendy chic Vivere showcases a start-to-finish approach to everything on the menu, from house- and hand-made pasta in a modern Chicago landmark contemporary dining room designed by Jordan Moser, full of unique shapes and angles in a stylish feel ideally suited for the forward-thinking haute cuisine, while La Cantina, features the classic menu, hospitable ambience and service at The Village.

Jared, a native of suburban Chicago sees this as a break through opportunity to build on the solid foundation of the wine program, and to restore it to its earlier eminence when it held the highest Grand Award. He intends to capitalize on the extensive inventory investment in Italian, Bordeaux and selective American wines, expand its global coverage, modernize the operations, and adopt social media and other promotions to showcase the world class selection, great values, and rare wines, all complementing great authentic food in a setting for all occasions.

Jared loves life in the cellar which serves as his office where he spends his days researching new wines, managing the inventory, and updating the extensive wine list to pair wines to showcase the cuisine and menu's of each of the three restaurants while offering wines for all tastes and budgets.

Dining hours and evenings are then devoted to promotion, serving as Sommelier and assisting the dining and bar staff in the property's three restaurants. While each restaurant boasts in own kitchen, chef and waitstaff, the cellar serves all three dining operations.

On this day, we were meeting Todd Alexander, Winemaker from Force Majeure Vineyard and Winery in Red Mountain, Yakima/Columbia Valley Washington. Visiting Chicago with his wife Carrie, Marketing Director for Force Majeure on a promotion tour, we met at Italian Village to bring together two emerging voices and forces in wine and fine dining to share offerings, visions, plans, and to explore synergies and opportunities for collaboration.

Jared gave all of us a tour of the Italian Village cellar and uncovered and showcased from its extensive thirty thousand bottle collection of deep selections in classic Italian's, rare Bordeaux, as well as several premier wine's from Todd's previous endeavors such as Bryant Family wines in Napa Valley.

Watch for upcoming wine and dine tasting journal reports on Italian Village.

http://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/

Jared with Force Majeure winemaker
Todd Alexander

Showing wine treasure vintage Chateau Petrus.

Todd Alexander and Bryant Family selection
from Italian Village cellar.

A day at the office for Jared Gelband, in Italian Village
cellar with Todd and Carrie Alexander and author.

Ladera Howell Mountain Malbec 2006

Ladera Howell Mountain Malbec 2006

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the winery back in 2008. Ladera specialize in Bordeaux varietal wines, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, but they also offer this lesser known, more obscure Malbec varietal based wine. In Bordeaux Malbec is blended to introduce dark color and full body into the wine.

The Malbec grape is a thin-skinned grape that requires more sun and heat than the leading Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to mature. Hence it is well suited to the more consistent, warm and sunny climate of Napa Valley. It is used in the blend to introduce deep color, full body associated with ample tannin, and a fruity plum-like flavor to add complexity to Bordeaux based blends.

We took this to Angeli's, our favorite local Italian trattoria, BYOB for a mid-week dinner.

Tonights tasting was consistent with an earlier tasting note when I wrote, "Dark color - full bodied - full firm forward fruits - a bit flabby on opening but overcame the funkiness to reveal black berry and cherry fruit flavors, a layer of spice, hints of leather and a touch of cedar on a long finish." This was a good complement to our hearty Italian fare.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=523712

http://www.laderavineyards.com/

Todd Alexander joins Force Majeure Winery

Force Majeure Red Mountain Vineyard and Winery - An emerging tour de force in premium Washington State Columbia Valley wines ...

We had the pleasure of meeting Todd Alexander, Head Winemaker and General Manager of Force Majeure, the highly-acclaimed winery from Washington State’s Red Mountain AVA, and his wife Carrie, during their recent marketing trip to Chicago. 

We met with Todd and Carrie to learn about Force Majeure and their work there to produce and market highest quality wines representing the rich and diverse terroir of the Red Mountain appellation. Todd gained notoriety at cult winery Bryant on Pritchard Hill in Napa Valley where his wines earned high ratings and critical praise. There he learned the craft under legendary viticulturist David Abreu and winemaking consultant Michel Rolland, following in the footsteps there of such notable producers such as Peter Melka. He also spent time learning the craft at Plumpjack/Cade. Joining Todd was wife Carrie, who will be working in marketing of Force Majeure.

They join proprietors Susan and Paul McBride, who purchased the undeveloped land, that is now Force Majeure Vineyard, in 2004, and since then have developed the Force Majeure brand with their devotion and commitment to meticulous viticulture and exemplary winemaking. They have been sourcing Red Mountain fruit from the finest lots from the well known Ciel du Cheval vineyard, marketing under the branding Grand Reve Vintners. During this time they have been increasingly shifting focus to Force Majeure, highlighting fruit from the estate Force Majeure Vineyard as more and more plots come online. Up to now they produced the Collaboration Series featuring Washington’s leading winemakers and one of Red Mountain’s greatest vineyards, Ciel du Cheval. Now, with Todd at the healm of winemaking duties, they will focus on their estate vineyards starting with the Force Majeure vineyard.

Todd and Carrie moved with their their family from Napa Valley to the Columbia Valley to purse this extraordinary opportunity. Todd joined Force Majeure in 2014 so this year's release will be the first reflecting his craftmanship from the vineyards to the glass.

Force Majeure is growing production from 2,000 cases per year to 4,000 cases as their second 20-acre parcel comes into production. The winery’s focus has been on red Bordeaux varietals with acreage planted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and Rhone varietals Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre with new plantings in Cinsault, Counoise, Viognier and others. This will allow Todd to explore developing product with both Northern and Southern Rhone style wines as well those reflecting the Bordeaux Left and Right Banks. Such is the diversity and of the terroir of the property.

The Force Majeure estate vineyard is in Washington state's Red Mountain AVA (appellation - agriculture viticulturual area. The original vineyard was planted in 13 acres, and an additional 10 acres planted in 2015. Force Majeure Vineyard is up against the hillside abutting Red Mountain.

Todd seeks to emulate the great labels of Pomerol, St Julien, Hermitage, Priorat, Côte-Rôtie and Chateauneuf-du-Pape - such labels as Lalande-de-Pomerol, Chateau Latour, La Ladone, and Chateau Beaucastel as benchmark wines. We're excited to watch the evolution and growth of his work as Force Majeure as he seeks to pursue his vision and realize the potential of this great property, and for him to express and develop his capabilities in a broad portfolio of premium wines.

Todd told of us the unique diversity, and superior terroir and great potential of the property, in the foothill butted up against the Red Mountain range overlooking the Yakima River basin. The diverse property has nine different soil types in a change of elevation from 900 to 1200 feet. The rocky upper part of the property has as much as a 40% slope, well-suited for the Rhone varietals, while the lower elevations of the vineyard's well-drained soils are more ideally suited to Bordeaux varietals, all with a Southwestern exposure to capture the afternoon sun, ideal for ripening the grapes.

The Yakima Valley AVA was the first AVA created in Washington State in 1983. The valley covers 600,000 acres in south central Washington, twice the size of the greater Bordeaux region, and fifteen times the size of Napa Valley. Yakima Valley is home to the largest concentration of vineyards and wineries in the state with more than 60 wineries and 16,000 vineyard acres. Nearly 40% of Washington wines are made with Yakima Valley grapes.

In 1984 Columbia Valley was given AVA status, and Yakima Valley was enclosed within the Columbia Valley AVA. Since that time, several new appellations have been added including Red Mountain AVA and Horse Heaven Hills AVA, which are both contained within Yakima Valley.

Force Majeure currently has a winery facility in Woodinville, WA but will also be developing their own world class winery facility, renovating a historic rustic 11,000 schoolhouse from around 1900. 

Todd left us the Force Majeure Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 and Force Majeure Red Mountain Syrah 2013, both sourced from the Force Majeure vineyard. Watch for my update with our upcoming tasting of these wines.

We met with Todd and Carrie at the famous Chicago landmark Italian Village Restaurant with their historic award winning wine cellar, now run by Wine Director Sommelier Jared Gelband who gave us a tour of the cellar featuring in my separate blogpost.

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

For a casual mid-week dinner at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood Italian trattoria, we took BYOB this limited release bottle of Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002. This follows our recent tasting of the 1997 vintage release of this same label. The 2002 vintage was much more presentable lacking the diminution of the fruit in the older vintage, a surprising difference considering only five years separation, and the much heralded reputation of the '97.

This showed similarly to my previous tasting notes for this label from six years earlier when I wrote: "Dark garnet color, full bodied, bright cinnamon spice, raspberry, hint of cedar and mocha on a big, long silky smooth tannin finish."

The only difference (from my earlier 93 point rating) might be the reduction of a couple points for slightly expressive and less vibrant fruits, but still exceptional and impressive at 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19187

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

d'Arenberg Cabernet Sauvignon The Coppermine Road 2002

 d'Arenberg South Australia McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon The Coppermine Road 2002

Saturday evening dinner at home watching Copa America Soccer on TV, Linda prepared grilled steak and baked potatoes with peas and corn. I pulled from the cellar an older big Cabernet that I felt was ready to drink or needing to be consumed, and one of which I had multiple bottles - hence this d'Arenberg Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. This also was selected since we drank an older similar aged d'Arenberg shiraz last weekend for our special dinner. We have several vintages of this wine including a couple older single bottles, yet, I don't recall drinking this label before so tonight's tasting was a new discovery adventure.

The Coppermine Road by d'Arenberg is named for the road that runs parallel to the winery's top Cabernet vineyard which sourced the fruit for this vintage release. The 2002 Cabernet season was a warm vintage which resulted in this super ripe concentrated fruit. 

d'Arenberg were riding high during this period, as noted on the supplemental labels (shown left), they had just been awarded Australia’s Winery Of The Year, and the Most Successful Winery in 2003. 


Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied with classic 'legs' coating the sides of the glass. Upon opening, aromas of black fruits filled the room. On tasting they were accented by ripe raisin and floral violets. Slightly musty, concentrated, firm structured firm black fruits were accented by tobacco, leathery creosote, raisin eucalyptus notes with mouth puckering tongue coating tannins on the ripe black cherry fruit laced finish.

After dinner I tasted this with moderately dark, then dark chocolates and the darker the better to complement the raisin laced earthy black fruits. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=17760

http://www.darenberg.com.au/

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2011

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2011 

Traveling, I picked up this everyday wine for carry out dinner back at the hotel. This provides great QPR - quality price ratio, affordable for every day drinking, but well rounded for many occasions. Would be suitable for parties where you need to serve many and not break the bank, and provide a easy drinking wine that will appeal to many. A great pizza wine.

This wine is produced using an innovative Ripasso method. The grapes Corvina Veronese (70%), Rondinella (25%), and Sangiovese (5%) are from the Palazzo della Torre vineyard in the town of Fumane near Verona. They are harvested and then vinified in two different methods: 70% of the grapes are vinified immediately after the harvest, the remaining percentage is dried until the end of December to a raisin characteristic. At this point, the wine ferments again with the dried grapes.

While not complex, this is nicely balanced for smooth easy sipping, supple with deep ruby red in colour, a berry perfume, ripe black berry and black cherry fruits with an underlying tone of leather, mocha, hints of vanilla and oak with modest finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1785136

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005

Tasted with a mid-week dinner of leftover grilled steak, baked potato, green beans, sweet corn and brussel sprouts. Tasted from a 375 ml half bottle. At eleven years of age, I sense this is approaching the end of its prime drinking window as the fruits seem to have given way slightly to the emergence of the non-fruit flavors based on earlier tasting notes from three and five years ago.  Knowing the small format half bottle will age less gracefully that full size or larger bottles makes me wonder if that affected this tasting - will find out when I open a standard format bottle of this label.

Château Larmande lies north of the town of St. Emilion, close to Soutard and Cadet-Piola. It consists of 25 hectares of vineyards planted with Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). In 1991 Larmande was sold to the French insurance conglomerate, La Mondiale.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of tar, smoke, earthy leather, hints of cedar, spice and whisper of mocha on a firm lingering tongue puckering tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=351693 

http://www.chateau-soutard.com/chateau-larmande-.aspx

Backus Sassicaia Dead Arm Highlight Grilled Steak Dinner

Backus, Sassicaia, Dead Arm - Diverse Big Reds Highlight Grilled Steak Dinner

Dr Dan hosted us for grilled steak dinner and opened a diverse pair of premium Bordeaux varietal reds - Joseph Phelps Napa Backus and Super Tuscan Sassicaia. I brought a Dead Arm and Shafer premium Chardonnay to round out the dinner wine flight.

Before dinner Dan served shrimp cocktail and a cheese course of swiss and sharp cheddar with an assortment of olives. For this course I brought and served Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay as a starter.
 
With grilled New York Strip steaks, Dan served twice baked potatoes, grilled asparagus and portabello mushrooms.

The diverse Reds each complimented features of the meal. The grilled steak were an ideal highlight with the Backus while the portabello mushrooms were a perfect match to the Sassicaia.




Shafer Napa Valley Carneros Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 2011

This single vineyard grown Chardonnay is from Red Shoulder Ranch vineyard, located on 68 acres in the Carneros district at the top of San Fransisco Bay where Napa and Sonoma come together at the bottom of Mt Veeder at the foot of the Mayacamas Range that separates Napa from Sonoma. Unlike Napa Valley which is known for its Bordeaux varietal wines, the Carneros appellation, with its cool breezes and fog that rolls in off the Bay, is more suited to Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The vineyard is named for the the Red-shouldered Hawks who, along with other birds of prey, help protect the vineyard from vine damaging gophers who feed upon the rootstock of the vines.

This was straw colored, medium bodied, subtle lemon and citrus accented by tones of apple and pear with nice, well balanced crisp acidity and a clean structured lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1446015

http://shafervineyards.com/ 

With grilled New York Strip steaks, Dan served twice baked potatoes, grilled asparagus and portabello mushrooms. The diverse Reds each complimented features of the meal. The grilled steak were an ideal highlight with the Bachus while the portabello mushrooms were a perfect match to the Sassicaia.


Joseph Phelps Backus Napa Valley Red Wine 2007

Notably, Joseph Phelps premium labels were the highlight feature wines of Dan's father of the bride celebration dinner - Backus and a vertical selection of Phelps Insignia. This wine is from the single designated Backus Vineyard in the Napa Oakville appellation, located south of Oakville Cross Road on the east side of Silverado Trail. The vineyard is planted in 20 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Petit Verdot, and 1 acre of Malbec.

Elegant, silky smooth, polished, a symphony of perfectly balanced flavors, this was the ideal opening red for the dinner course. Dark garnet/purple colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic nose and flavors of a medley of sweet ripe berry fruits accented by slight subtle tones of vanilla, and sweet oak with a whisper of cassis and mocha that are so nicely integrated they're almost indistinguishable in isolation, turning to supple full but silky smooth tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=687176

http://www.josephphelps.com/


Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia Super Tuscan Red Wine 2006

Despite being an Italian wine, this Super Tuscan is a Bordeaux Blend - 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. In fact, the rootstock for the Cabernet was actually sourced from vines from the innumerable Chateau Lafite Rothschild.

A very different character and style in contrast to the silky smooth smooth polished Backus. This wine begged for hearty food to balance its firm forward concentrated taste profile. It was best paired with the grilled portabello mushrooms.

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, firm, tight, complex and concentrated black berry fruits accented by a layer of cassis, graphite, smokey creosote and dark expresso, turning to firm tannins on the firm, long, lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=592899


d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 2000

We hold close to a dozen vintages of this label and this vintage is one of the bigger, more vibrant and expressive of many our vintages of Dead Arm.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, thick concentrated, almost chewy, floral, spicy tones of ripe blackberry, black raspberry, with more subtle blueberries and plums, with hints of black pepper and spices turning to structured nicely balanced tannins on a long full finish.

RM 92 points. 

While this could stood in for any course of the dinner, the bright vibrant expressive fruit was best suited for the dessert course that Linda brought with dark chocolates, dried cherries, and fruit tarts with kiwi, strawberry, and grapes. 
 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7545