Thursday, April 25, 2024

Shiraz with BBQ Ribs at Pour Boys dinner

Flight of Shiraz with BBQ Ribs as Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin 

Our Pour Boys wine group gathered at The Cove, our vacation rental in Destin, FL for a festive wine weekend centered on the SoWal (South Walton Beaches) Wine and Food Festival

On our guests’ arrival night, Linda prepared baby-back ribs with baked potatoes, baked beans, cole slaw and fresh vegetables. Afterwards, for dessert we had Tira Miso and Tuxedo chocolate cake. 

For a wine accompaniment with dinner I brought from our home cellar a flight of Shiraz/Syrahs, one of our favorite pairings - BBQ and Syrah, including a comparison tasting of  three rare single-vineyard designated labels - two from from the legendary Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard and one from the Napa Valley Caldwell Vineyard

Stagecoach Vineyard sources fruit in several varieties to top labels from some of Napa Valley’s most storied producers. 

https://www.stagecoachvineyard.com/critics_choice/


Venge Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Block 1-3 Syrah 2015

This is from one of our favorite producers, Venge Vineyards. We’ve been collecting Venge wines for three decades and hold a deep and broad collection of their wines. 

We’ve visited Venge several times over the years and are delighted they’re thriving under next generation Kirk Venge who has expanded the portfolio significantly.  

Today, two of our favorite wines in the Chardonnay and Syrah varietal are Venge labels. 

This is a big tongue puckering rich forward style we love and consider it a perfect pairing with BBQ such as tonight. 

This is a distinctive, unique single vineyard designated label from the Stagecoach Vineyard, which the producer proclaims “continues to produce Syrah of unparalleled quality. The Syrahs from that mountain vineyard really shine from the steep, rocky terroir of the location”. 

Stagecoach is one of the Napa Valley’s largest and leading mountain vineyards located near the Atlas Peak AVA at an elevation of around 1,700 feet above sea level. The soil is very rocky and topography very steep. Temperatures are warm in the midday and cold at night. This diurnal effect makes for a balance of vibrant acidity and fruit structure that is concentrated and focuessed. “Block I-4” is referenced in this bottling because of its very high elevation relative to the rest of the Stagecoach Vineyard.

Venge Vineyards Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah Block I-4 2013 was awarded 96 points by The Wine Advocate, 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Wine Spectator. 

Dark inky black garnet/purple colored, full bodied, complex, powerful deep concentrated savory blackberry and black plum fruits accented by notes of anise, black pepper, hints of bacon fat, clove spice creosote, camphor, vanilla and graphite with a long tongue coating finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3223878

Winemaker notes - The body is full with soft, dark, tarry, slightly sticky tannins. Delicious wire to wire. Fresh, juicy and ripe. Blackberries, black plum, an array of purple fruits, black licorice to the core of anise, deep sweet tarriness, light pepper, dark spice, limestone minerals, big vanilla, cinnamon, clove, some nutmeg, cigar, tobacco, leather, crushed rocks, sandstone style minerals, underbrush with lavender & violets. Lovely round acidy. The long, rich, lush, ripe, well balanced finish is persistent and absolutely delicious.

https://www.vengevineyards.com/

Another Syrah from Stagecoach Vineyard. 

Miner “La Diligence” Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah 2009

This is from Miner, another producer we have enjoyed for more than two decades. Miner was originally founded by Dave Minor, descendent of software pioneer who was part of the founding braintrust and major contributor to Oracle Software. We have fun with this label since we’ve partnered with Oracle for years and our son still works there as an industry executive.   

Following a number of years spent working in the software industry, Dave Miner got his start in wine in 1993 as President of Oakville Ranch Vineyards, owned by his late uncle, Robert Miner. Having spent years as an enthusiastic wine consumer and collector, Dave had a natural affinity for the business.

Dave met his future bride Emily Miner, a Minnesota transplant and graduate of Santa Clara University, when they she joined Oakville Ranch as the Tasting Room Manager back in 1993. There she met Dave where they subsequently fell in love.

The Miner Family Winery brand was born in 1996 when Dave, working as President of Oakville Ranch, decided to become a custom crush client and start his own wine label.

In 1997, Gary Brookman joined as winemaker for Oakville Ranch and to establish Dave’s own label, Miner Family. A former Joseph Phelps alum, Gary was the perfect candidate to develop the wine portfolio and expand their custom crush client business. In 1999, Dave and Emily Miner married, purchased the winery building and released the first Miner Family wines.

In 2001, The Oracle label was released, Miner’s inaugural vintage of our flagship, Bordeaux-style blend.
Miner Family Winery named “Top Five” All-American wines of 2004, Bon Appetite Magazine

In 2012, after years of offering varietally correct Riedel glassware in our tasting room, Miner and Riedel announce their partnership. Since 2012, Riedel Wine Glass Company exclusively uses Miner Family wines at its proprietary comparative glassware tasting events and at select events officially endorsed by the Riedel name in the United States.

Miner Family's "La Diligence" series is a small-production collaboration between Miner Family winemaker Gary Brookman and Northern Rhone producer Francois Villard, with the objective to produce wine from Rhone varietals grown in the Napa Valley using traditional French techniques. 

Only 336 cases the 08 "La Diligence" Syrah were produced. It is 100% Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah, aged for fifteen months in a 40% new French oak. 

Winemaker notes - “Cracked pepper, smokey spice, and meaty aromas and flavors accent the dark-fruited, chocolately layers of this rich and full-bodied Syrah.”

The fruit for this Syrah comes exclusively from the Stagecoach Vineyard, which inspired the name “La Diligence” meaning “The Stagecoach” in French. This Syrah displays classic northern Rhône structure and flavors with ripe, dark fruit characteristics and just the right amount of smoky spice.

Fellow CellarTracker Sheldon wrote in 2018 - “This wine was tryluly exceptional and one of the best Syrahs I have ever had. It was drinking solid and probably will continue to drink well for at least a couple more years, perhaps longer. Big and full-boddied (sic)but balanced and round with a long beautiful finish. It may lack the French elegance but this hit the bullseye ….” He gave it 95 points. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, concentrated complex blackberry fruits with black pepper accents, notes of earthy, black tea, tobacco and savory spices with a long finish. 

RM 91 points. 


https://minerwines.com/


Neiman Napa Valley Caldwell Vineyard Block 18 Syrah 2003

Neiman Cellars is the artwork of Drew Neiman who was introduced to wine through his cousins Eli and Mildred Neiman who operated Regency Wine Sellers back in Ohio. Through that relationship, exposed to wines in their store, he began to consider a career centered around wine. 

Some of the wines that initially captivated him were made by winemaker John Kongsgaard while Kongsgaard was the winemaker at Newton Vineyards. John is one of Napa Valley’s great wine minds; not only is he a winemaker, but perhaps he could be referred to as a ‘wine poet’, someone who has acutely combined the art and science of winemaking. In addition, he has been a notable mentor to numerous now accomplished winemakers in Napa Valley.

Wanting to work with Kongsgaard, Drew reached out to Kongsgaard asking him if he could spend some time mentoring from him. Drew’s persistence paid off and John offered him a cellar position at Newton Vineyards during the fall of 1994. Drew spent 11 years working with Kongsgaard rising through the ranks from harvest help to assistant winemaker by way of UC Davis.

My interest stems from my love for Kongsgaard Syrah, perhaps the best I have ever tasted! 

In 1997 Kongsgaard approached Drew about starting his own brand. Kongsgaard had extra grapes from a contract with Caldwell Vineyards and wondered if Drew would be interested in taking over the contract. Drew did so and in subsequent years was able to source additional varieties from some of the best parts of Caldwell Vineyard. 

Drew produced Neiman Caldwell Vineyard Syrah and other varietal labels from the iconic vineyard which contained forward to this day when he also produces extremely limited quantities of Cabernet and Chardonnay.  

Caldwell is one of the most diverse and influential vineyards in America with 28 grape varieties, and a portfolio of 23 estate wines.

The 123 acre estate sits six hundred feet above the Napa Valley floor in Napa’s southern-most appellation, with steep hillsides, rolling oak meadows, and rows of grapevines framed by mountain ranges on either side. 

It is an exceptional place to grow grapes with proximity to San Pablo Bay, and geographic situation in the bowl of an ancient volcanic caldera, the cool temperatures and longest growing season in Napa Valley. The volcanic soils, where our roots grow deep, impart distinctive minerality and undeniable character in our wines. 

The Caldwell Vineyard estate is planted with 62 acres planted to 27 different grapevine clone and varietal combinations, a significant portion are original certified clones from France. The vineyard has been the source for some of Napa’s most revered Cabernet for other wineries and winemakers, including many of our cellar collection labels Moone Tsai (Philippe Melka), Merus and Brion (Mark Herold), Pahlmeyer (Helen Turley), Patz and Hall, Joseph Phelps’s Insignia, Stéphane Derenoncourt and others

Neiman Cellars’ core wines are Chardonnay, Syrah, a Red Wine blend and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Drew has also served as winemaker at Chateau Boswell from 2003 - 2007. He has also served as 
winemaker at Bridesmaid Wines.

Neiman wines are produced at a winery in Coombsville.  Drew handles everything from grower contracts, and winemaking to sales, personally hosting tastings with clients. 

Total production for Neiman Cellars is under 1,000 cases per year with nearly all of the wines sold direct to consumer and have included on the wine list at the French Laundry in Yountville.

Wine critic Robert Parker has called Drew Naiman “brilliant”. He’s been mentioned in FOOD & WINE, Wine Spectator, InStyle, and has poured his wine at the James Beard House in New York City. 

Neiman Cellars has been featured on the wine lists of fancy restaurants including the French Laundry, Per Se, Gary Danko, and The Beverly Hills Hotel.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?301988

Back as early as 2011 I tasted this wine and wrote, “Dark inky color - full bodied - full forward fruits - blackberry, black currants, raspberry fruits with a long well balanced tannin finish. RM 91 points.

Tonight at two decades this wine is nearing the end of its drinking window and it’s time to drink. The foil, label, fill level and importantly the cork were still in ideal condition. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, tightly wound, structured, complex blackberry and plum fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco, anise and hints of dark spices and bitter dark chocolate persist on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.   

http://neimancellars.com/

https://www.caldwellvineyard.com/


Torbreck “Woodcutter’s” Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland, ancestral home to the producer. This label  is a nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions including this tribute to the foresters of this rugged high country.

This producer says that this is sourced from the ‘up and coming Shiraz vineyards of the Barossa, rather than the battle hardened old vines that make up the core of our other cuvee’s.’  This is 100% Shiraz sourced from vineyards in  Marananga, Greenock, Seppeltsfield, Gomersal, Moppa, Lyndoch and Ebenezer sub-districts in the South Central Australia Barossa Valley.

“2021’s signature is wines of high aromatic lift with densely coloured tints and exceptional balance. Lifted red, black and blue fruits of red cherry, raspberry coulis, blueberry conserve and wild blackberry and blackcurrant. There is a spicy edge showing cardamom, star anise and Chinese five spice. Soft caressing tannins and voluptuous mouthfeel from plump Shiraz berries gives this wine a posture that belies its pedigree. The poise and piquancy of the fruit sitting on top of the structured mouthfeel provides confidence to cellar for 5-10 years.”

It was age 12 months in well-seasoned French oak hogsheads and Foudre.

2021 Torbreck "Woodcutter's" Shiraz Barossa Valley South Australia

This label is known for delivering great QPR - Quality Price Ratio. The producer says, “Although this wine is constantly praised for its succulence and richness, there is also a complexity and texture which is rarely found at this price.”

This release was awarded 96 points by James Suckling.

Winemaker Notes: Full of freshness and bright youthful fruits, the 2020 vintage possesses no small amount of exuberance and personality. Aromatic plum and black cherry with dark chocolate and intensity, yet refined. The balanced palated has a round central core of black and blue fruit that gives way to a complex mid-palate. While offering immense pleasure in its youth, the 2020 Woodcutter's Shiraz will certainly develop into an impressive wine with a few more years in the cellar. A fantastic introduction to the Torbreck range.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - "Ever the reliable wine in the Torbreck lineup (challenged only by the beauty of the Steading, but nevertheless), the Woodcutters has tightened up over time. My first introduction to it almost 10 years ago recalls a plush, full-bodied wine that delivered all the Barossa feels and flavors that one could possibly hope for. These days, and today specifically, the 2021 Woodcutter's Shiraz is tight and tense, with black brooding fruit set to a rigging of firm, savory tannins. The oak is subliminal in this wine, leaving only the tannins to shape the fruit. Really handled well. Impressive."

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, tightly wound, dark plum and blackberry fruits with cassis, dark cherry, spice and anise with moderate smooth tannins and textured finish. 

RM 89 points. 


Following the big bold Shiraz and BBQ pairings, after dinner we opened some other special wines for sipping and tasting. 

Lyle brought from his cellar in Chicago this Brunello, and Bill brought from his cellar in Charleston this Freemark Abbey Cabernet.

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Lyle has been diving into Brunello’s recently and brought from his home cellar this highly rated Brunello from Camigliano. 

Winemaker Notes - :A great wine with an intense bouquet and balanced tannins that express all the characteristics of the "terroir" in terms of its quality and type, both in the selection of clones and in the selection of the best-situated and sunniest terrain. A high-class wine that evolves in interesting ways over time. It is recommended for important events – to honor a loved one or a special guest.”

This release was rated  93 points by Wine Spectator, 92 points by James Suckling and 91by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

This was ideal for more delightful casual after dinner sipping as it was a bit lighter than the full throttle Syrahs we tasted with the BBQ. 

Ruby colored and medium to full bodied, this was complex but elegant and nicely balanced and polished with ripe red berry and currant and black cherry fruits with notes of  currant, licorice, leather and spice with silky polished tannins on a long finish. 

RM 91 points. 

Bill brought from his home cellar one of his and our perennial favorites from his deep collection from this producer.  This was spectacular closing out the evening with its full round concentrated flavor profile. 

Ironically, later this week, the producer was serving this label at the SoWal Wine Festival VIP Tasting and offering this vintage release from their library collection in OWC (Original Wood Cases) and Magnums, which Bill snapped up for his collection.

Freemark Abbey Mount Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Bill and I discussed doing Mount Veeder appellation wines this week and he brought this from his cellar. I have to admit this is the first experience I have had from this limited release appellation select label, available only through the wine club. This was amazing, one of the best Freemark Abbey Cabernets I have had! 

Winemaker notes - “This wine is dark, very dark, in fact it is opaque garnet with ruby edges. With massive depth, the aroma opens to ripe blackcurrant, blackberry, black olive, black pepper, tobacco, and mushroom with very well integrated oak spices. The spicy oak has subtle nuances of cinnamon, clove, aromatic cedar, and the overall impression is of a dark chocolate truffle dusted with cocoa powder. The entry is full and promising with dark fruit flavors like blackberry and currant, while the tannins are soft on entry they build to be more firm on the mid to back palate. With lots of depth, great acid balance, this wine is juicy and rich; a great example of a refined mountain cabernet that begs to be paired with a perfectly marbled, grilled ribeye steak! “

This was a spectacular vintage and what a great experience as the producer was pouring this same vintage of one of their single vineyard select labels - Sycamore Vineyard, at the Wine Festival tasting. 

The standard bottle for this vintage release was spectacular. Winemaker Notes  for the standard label release. “Opaque, dark ruby color introduces this wine that expresses dark fruit aroma and flavors. With spicy sweet oak complexity, the wine exudes dark fruit such as blackberry, black currant, blueberry and dark cherry. There are nuances of dark chocolate, chocolate berry truffle dusted with cocoa powder, cola, aromatic cedar, cinnamon, clove, graham crackers and a hint of tobacco. The body is very full with a soft entry, coupled with dark cherry/berry flavors that develop from start to finish. With great texture and mouth feel, this cabernet is full bodied, rich and opulent. In one word….delicious.”

This release was rated  92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and James Suckling. 

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Freemark Abbey’s standard bottling from Napa, is one of their best representations of this label and a great value with is large production and availability with nearly 24k cases produced. Parker calls it “one of their larger cuvées”. 

This release was a blend of 75.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10.9% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It was aged nearly 26 months in oak. 

I have to admit I was amazed by the Mount Veeder label and found it to be one of the best vintages of this label I can recall, and we’ve had more than a dozen over the years. 

Following this weekend I ran home to see if we had the standard label of this vintage release in the cellar and thankfully we do, and will look forward to opening this again in the future. Although, this wine has a long time to go still at the peak of its drinking window and should last another decade or more.  

Amazingly, they poured this vintage of their premium single vineyard designated release and Bill was right to pick up more at the retail tent at the wine festival and in retrospect I wish I had grabbed some more as well. 

For this label, Dark inky purple and garnet in color, full bodied, full round complex, structured and concentrated blackberry and blackcurrant fruit with notes of black tea, mocha chocolate, allspice, leather and tobacco leaf with full but approachable tannins on the long finish. 

RM 92 points. 

 




Sunday, April 21, 2024

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2017

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2017 


Following our false start at ordering this wine at our dining out restaurant experience over the weekend, featured in a blogpost in these pages, I had a taste for this wine, and happened to have a bottle on hand at our limited cellar collection at our Cove vacation rental home in Florida. 

We’re staying at the Cove, our favorite vacation rental in Destin Florida for the week to attend the SoWal (South Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Sandestin this coming weekend. Linda and I arrived a week early, and look forward to being joined by our Pour Boys wine group as the week progresses. 

Linda prepared delicious Beef Bourgogne, which was ideally paired with this wine for an optimal wine food combination. As readers of these pages know, I regularly write about the importance of proper food and wine pairing, which serves to multiply and enhance the enjoyment of both. 


Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2017 

We know this producer and wine well having visited the Chateau and Estate in Châteauneuf du Pape in the Southern Rhône River valley outside Avignon on a couple occasions dating back to 1998 and most recently in 2019.  Our visit to the Vieux Télégraphe estate and meeting owner/winemaker Daniel Brunier (left) was a highlight of our Rhone Valley Wine Experience in 2019.

The estates lies in the Châteauneuf -du-Pape AOC (Appellation Original Controlee) in the Rhone River Valley that stretches from Orange to Avignon.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for five generations dating back to 1891. The estate’s vineyards average 60 years of age on the Plateau of La Crau, a site known for growing Châteauneuf-du-Pape grape varietals.

The estate is named for the telegraph towers that sat on the site dating back to the early visual signal towers that were invented and deployed as far back as 1792. Lines of relay towers were built within line-of-sight of each other at distances of 5–20 miles. Tower operators would watch adjacent towers through a spyglass for signals produced by mechanical shutter arms and would pass the message on to the next tower. These early systems were faster and less expensive than horse drawn riders. These lines were a precursor of the electrical telegraph which would replace them half a century later.

The estate wines are known for their distinctive terroir signature of predominant minerality from filtering through the thick layer of large pebbles left behind when the Alpine glaciers melted, long before the Rhône Valley formed.

We hold Vieux Télégraphe wines dating back three decades to the early 1980's.  

Winemaker (s): Frédéric & Daniel Brunier 

The blend for this release is 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre with a slight bit of Syrah.

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: Châteauneuf-du-Pape seriously dominated by Grenache, which confers very singular suppleness and roundness. Best savored young.

This is the second wine of Vieux Telegraphe. Typically composed of Grenache with Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault from mostly young vines it often includes grapes from 45 year old vines at Château La Roquette.

This release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling, 92 points by Jeb Dunnuck and by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

Dark Ruby colored, medium-full bodied, complex classic brambly red and black raspberry and plum fruits with notes of gariggue, herbs, floral and spice from the Grenache, and cracked pepper with hints of cassis on the moderate long, rich, ripe tannin finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3131593

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

Two nights later, we enjoyed finishing up the leftovers of the Beef Bourgogne, and opened from our cellar collection here this aged vintage Bordeaux, which also served as an optimal pairing.

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=328095


Saturday, April 20, 2024

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence Alabama

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence, Alabama 

We traveled to Florence, Alabama to tour the Rosenbaum House, designed by iconic American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, a Usonian style house, the only Wright building in Alabama, considered "the purest example of the Usonian” concept.  

(Read more about my work as a Docent/Interpreter and Researcher for the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust on my Wright-site at http://www.mcnees.org/flw/).

We arrived the night before and dined at 360 Grille at the Marriott Shoals Hotel, Spa and Conference Center

360 Grille is a circular revolving restaurant atop a 300 foot 27 story tower overlooking the lock and dam on the scenic Tennessee River, the entire community of Florence, (Alabama), and the town of Muscle Shoals across the river, as it revolves slowly. It is Alabama's only revolving restaurant. It offers a unique and distinctive fine dining experience with ‘American chef’s creations’ and a Wine Spectator award winning wine list. 

In the end, while a technological and engineering marvel, with a 360 degree vista of the region, aside the river view, there is no skyline or cityscape to offer any sense of view - it might as well be in the middle of a forest as most of the scene is treetops in almost all directions other than the river. Of course, we are immensely spoiled being accustomed to one of the most spectacular cityscapes and skylines on the planet in Chicago! Alas, many Chicago restaurants offer memorable, world class views - too many to mention here.




As is customary, I spent much time researching and planning all the details of our trip and travel including evaluating dining options based on site and location, and primarily food and wine offerings based on published menu’s and wine lists ahead of time, as part of selecting a dining venue in the region.

360 Grille published their menu and wine list on-line which offers the chance to plan such an event. The menu was essentially up to date and accurately reflected what was on offer. The wine list however, was a bit chaotic with multiple listings for several wines including several conflicting or duplicate labels, and the typical challenge of out of date vintages and prices. 

The (historical) Wine Spectator Award Winning winelist, published on-line, shows about 75 Red Wines, 45 White Wines and Seven dessert or after dinner wines. As shown, they are arranged in a very haphazard confusing manner, and priced ranging from $30 to $375, with price points ranging from slightly over one times retail to five times retail prices. 

As I expected, the actual wines on offer bore only slight resemblance to what was published on-line. Interestingly, case in point is a wine we know extremely well, having visited the Chateau and estate in France, and holding a not-insignificant collection of the producer’s labels in our home cellar. 

Looking to support one of our favorite producers, ordering a wine we know well, we had hoped to possibly order Château Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf Du Pape. was prepared to be disappointed, though, when they also published on-line Château Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’, Châteauneuf Du Pape. Télégramme is the ‘second’ label and wine from this producer, which sells for half the price of the grand vin, but both were posted at the same price.

Ironically, this was a replay of a similar situation we encountered last year where the wine on offer was the grand vin, while the wine served was the second label. In this case, the actual wine list corrected the duplication error, offering only the second label, however at an even higher price point than the grand vin published on-line. I wrote about this similar experience in this blogpost in these pages - The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines.

The result, tonight, was a wine sold at five times the retail price, versus two times the retail price as advertised! 

There were several other errors and anomalies between the published list and actual current list in the restaurant. I wasn’t surprised and expected as much having seen this many times before, but not to this level of breadth, depth and magnitude. 

Being from Chicago, we’re used to sophisticated, upscale fine dining experiences, which we perhaps take for granted. The disparities become apparent when you visit arguably the top establishment in a small remote third tier town like Florence. The folks at 360 Grille exuded an abundance of warm friendly southern hospitality, and the venue a spectacular site experience, still, the vibe was as much akin a diner or coffee shop as it was an upscale elegant restaurant.     

For our dinner, we ordered as a starter the Baked Brie, and for entrees, I ordered the filet of beef while Linda selected the fresh seafood special selection, grilled Wahu. 

Diners were treated to an Amouse Buche of crabmeat on a small bread crust. 


For a starter, Linda ordered the Oven Baked Brie with Toasted Pecans and Apricot Jam. This is a dish we know well from several restaurant experiences, and which she personally prepares often, based on some of our favorite preparations and presentations. I wrote about her baked Brie, and some of the inspirations for it in this blogpost -  Baked Brie Tranche Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley White Blend. Tonight’s presentation while imaginative and nicely done was a bit uninspiring with a somewhat simple preparation of cheese with the fruit topping. They might take note from this blogpost. 


I ordered the filet of beef, which came with my choice of two sides, spinach and truffle mashed potatoes. This offering is priced at $34 for lunch, and $52 for dinner. 

The second infraction, or disappointment of the evening, involved preparation of my filet of beef. Regular readers of these pages know I often order filet of beef with a ‘Pittsburg’ style preparation. Fully expecting the waitstaff to not know to what I was referring, I didn’t mention Pittsburg, but rather, described how I wished my steak to be prepared. I stated, slowly and distinctly, “hot pink center, and if possible, and if it doesn’t present any trouble, light charring, so long as it doesn’t result in over-cooking the beef.”  


When my entree arrived, the presentation was nice and well laid out, but it tasted smoked with a strong smoky flavor, (that unfortunately I hate to say, resembled a sense of lighter fluid). Linda, a competent and experienced cook, attributed it to ‘liquid smoke’, a cooking aide, which apparently was applied in the quest to provide the essence of charring. Needless to say, charring and smoking are very different methods of preparation, with very different taste effects and outcomes. 

In the end, Linda loved her seafood chef’s special entree which had an ample portions such that we traded mid-meal and I was able to enjoy the remains of her entree, and she found my filet less off-putting than I did. 

I was prepared and expecting to take the high road, be polite and restrained, yet mention the winelist, and perhaps also the condition of my steak preparation, to anyone in the restaurant that might be interested in feedback and willing to listen. Alas, the assistant manager happened to come by the table and asked about our dining experience, so, I offered to provide some candid and unvarnished feedback. He was a slight bit overwhelmed in the breadth and depth of my research, and expectations relative to the outcomes. In the end, he took it exceedingly well, sincerely and genuinely interested in our candid feedback and evaluation of their standards of offering and service. 

The bright spot of the evening was the Chef's Fresh Seafood Special, Grilled Wahu, served with Creamy Polenta, Spiced Pear Chutney, Frisee, Citrus Vinaigrette and Crispy Beet. This was wonderful, and delicious, although perhaps slightly overcooked so as to be a bit dry. 


With her entree we ordered a Chardonnay B-T-G, by the glass, from the available options. 

With my entree I ordered one of the reds that was available at a slightly more reasonable value - two and a half times the retail price, which I consider a bit high (especially for a place like Florence, Alabama), but acceptable and somewhat ‘customary’ for upscale fine dining establishments. 

Gary Farrell Sonoma Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021

I selected this as a cross-over wine, one that could go with both Linda’s grilled seafood and my steak dinner. 

Like the Vieux Telegraphe above, we know this producer well and had visited the Gary Farrell estate and winery in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, during or Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017 I wrote about this producer and our visit there in this earlier blogpost.

Farrell produces and is most noted for a wide portfolio of single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Sonoma County and the Russian River Valley. 

This is their standard bottling blended from numerous vineyard sources. 

This Russian River Selection bottling is a classic Russian River Valley profile, sourced and blended from several of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. 

From the Producer - Tasting Notes - “This gorgeous Pinot Noir opens with seductive aromas of cherry liquor, sweet tobacco, fresh fennel, rose petal and boysenberry preserves. The broad, youthful, tangy, yet complex palate offers juicy flavors of blood orange, sour cherry jam, tamarind, raspberry jerk sauce, with a hint of savory green plantains. The firm tannins and tangy acidity create a full-bodied texture, lending to the incredibly long, spicy finish.” 

Vineyard Notes - “Our Russian River Selection bottlings are quintessential Russian River Valley wines blended from some of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. The Rochioli and Bacigalupi vineyards are located in the Middle Reach subdivision, where close proximity to the river awards foggy mornings, warm and sunny days, and cool nights – the perfect balance that characterizes the Russian River Valley. The Martaella vineyard is located in the Santa Rosa Plain, a distinctly cooler and foggier sub-region, while the Hallberg and McDonald Mountain Vineyards, located within the Green Valley and Sebastopol Hills neighborhoods, exhibits even more extreme cool climate conditions. A beautiful expression of the varietal and of the appellation’s unique terroir, this Pinot Noir blend captures the richness, purity and elegance that are Gary Farrell Winery’s trademarks.”

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Ruby colored medium bodied, dusty rose floral perfume tones with black cherry fruits with notes of what Jeb Dunnuck calls ‘cherry cola’, and the winemaker cites ‘savory, sweet tobacco’ with tangy, nicely balanced acidity and fine grained tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.    






Monday, April 15, 2024

Sole Meunière with Central Coast Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

Sole Meunière with Central Coast Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

Several weeks ago we featured Sole Meunière with a hearty Chardonnay in these pages where I detailed our experiences with and preferences for this delicate white fish seafood in this blogpost -  Sole Meunière Amandine with RRV Chardonnay.

Tonight, we did a replay of that dinner with delicate filets of Sole Amondine, with a robust full bodied Chardonnay. 

Linda grilled the Sole filets and served them with a Meunière sauce with balsamic rice and fresh sliced cucumbers with dill. 

I pulled from the cellar to pair with the meal a full found Chardonnay. 

Pisoni Lucia Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2020

This is from Pisoni Winery sourced exclusively from the Pisoni, Garys’ and Soberanes vineyards in the Lucia appellation in the Santa Rita Hills off of the Pacific Central Coast of Monterey Bay

These vineyards are located on sloping hillsides that lie adjacent the mountainous terrain of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range where the orientation of the Salinas Valley acts as a direct funnel for the cold Monterey Bay winds and pacific ocean influence.

Image compliments Pisoni Winery












Spanning 23 miles, Monterey Bay acts as an immense funnel, channeling ocean air through the Salinas Valley down to the Santa Lucia Highlands and other American Viticultural Areas.

The valley is extremely dry and remarkably cool as a result of the marine winds that sweep in off the ocean. As a result of the cold, the vines typically bud two weeks earlier than the California norm and are picked at least two weeks later, giving the Salinas Valley one of the longest growing seasons in the world.

If not for the Pacific shoreline, California would be an entirely warm-weather growing region. However the two regions of the Petaluma Gap and the Navarro River in the Russian River Valley up in Sonoma and Point Conception in the Santa Rita Hills provide two ideal sites for cool climate varietal grapes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. That recent pairing of this white fish, I served a Russian River Valley Chardonnay. 

Matt Kramer of Wine Spectator writes that this “is marine influenced—to an extreme.”

https://blog.pisonivineyards.com/tech-sheets/2020-lucia-chardonnay-santa-lucia-highlands-california/

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes - “From two of the most renowned sites in this narrow, maritime influenced AVA (61% Soberanes Vineyard and 39% Pisoni Vineyard), the 2020 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay harnesses its differing origins to maintain an unmistakable, yet delicate tension.” 

‘Flaunting its youth through a radiant straw hue, this Chardonnay is true to its roots, as the high-elevation rows at the Pisoni Vineyard leave their mark with powerful notes of white peach, red apple skin, and toasted brioche.” 

With added richness comes needed restraint, and the Soberanes Vineyard completes the balancing act with its classically mineral-driven undertones. These boulder-laden soils have created notes of crushed rock, Meyer lemon tart, and crisp pear. Acting as the center of balance, vibrant acidity and layered complexity make these two distinct sites one, and the result is a wine that will continue to amaze for years to come.”

This was a different approach than I took with our earlier pairing the Sole with a more restrained and delicate style Chardonnay which I wrote about in these pages just the week before last. That was an unoaked Chardonnay and was more harmonious and aligned with the fish. Tonight’s Chardonnay was much bigger, fuller, round and forward, almost bordering on being obtuse so as to overpower the seafood. To the contrary, Linda liked it and preferred over the earlier label. 

Wine Spectator gave this release 91 points. 

Golden straw colored, full bodied, full round forward fruit flavors that the winemakers cites as “powerful notes of white peach, red apple skin, and toasted brioche” , with notes of what Wine Spectator describes as “melon, peach and nectarine notes on a sleek and juicy frame, with accents of lemon blossom, dried ginger and apple skin.” 

RM 91 points.



Earlier Posting -  Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Sunday, April 14, 2024

Groth Oakville Cabernet with Grilled BeefSteak

Groth Oakville Cabernet with Grilled BeefSteak

We watched four grandkids for the weekend, back and forth between our house and theirs’. For dinner on our deck we grilled out flank steak with scalloped potatoes, asparagus, cheese bread and Texas toast. To accompany the grilled beefsteak I pulled from our cellar a favorite Napa Valley Cabernet. 

This follows another Oakville Cabernet from the same appellation and vintage recently which, not surprisingly, had an almost identical profile and status. That earlier wine food pairing was featured in these pages in this blogpost - 

Paradigm Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 with Tomahawk Ribeye steak dinner



Groth Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

This is a remarkably similarly situated replay of an earlier previous tasting of this wine about three years ago, which, therefore, I’ll excerpt here. 

At twenty years, the fill level, foil and most importantly, the cork were in ideal condition. Amazingly, even this bottle has the same label conditions as the one opened back in 2021 with ripples of separation from the bottle. Obviously this batch of bottles had some issues with the labeling machine resulting in this separation a decade and half later, identically on multiple bottles of the same batch (as shown, tonight’s bottle here, and earlier bottle below). 

From blogpost - 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/05/groth-oakville-napa-cabernet-2004.html

Posted May 7, 2021

Groth Oakville Napa Cabernet 2004

Groth Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 - ideal pairing with filet of beef

We feasted on the left over filets of beef from last evening and I pulled from the cellar this Groth Napa Cabernet - a perfect pairing. Indeed, the producer's menu suggestion for this wine: "A slab and a Cab", Dennis Groth recommends you drink his Cabernet Sauvignon with steak."

We visited the Groth estate winery and vineyards during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999. Groth gain notoriety and recognition when Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate gave the Groth 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon the distinction of being California’s first perfect 100-point wine. 

Since then, Groth wines have been ranked on Wine Spectator’s prestigious Top 100 Wines list eight times, most recently in 2019, when the 2016 Reserve Cabernet was No. 4. 

From the beginning, Groth has been a family business, managed today by second-generation family member Suzanne Groth. 

Groth Vineyards & Winery was founded in 1981 by Dennis and Judy Groth. Dennis gained his fame in fortune in Silicon Valley when he was CFO of early tech phenom Atari (remember 'Pong'). When it was acquired by Time Warner, Dennis went on to President of the Consumer Products Division and President of the International Division.
The Groth Oakville Estate sits on the valley floor in the heart of the Napa Valley. The Groth family helped Oakville become recognized as one of the world’s preeminent wine regions. Today, the Oakville AVA is home to the largest concentration of the very best Napa Valley producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. Oakville District Cabernet Sauvignon wines are is renowned as full, lush and elegant.
 
Groth Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004  
 
Winemaker notes on the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon: "Big and lush with huge gobs of fruit in the aroma and flavor. The texture of the wine is soft and supple, typical of Cabernet Sauvignons grown in our area of the Oakville AVA. Patience during bottle aging will reward the "steward" with an outstanding bottle over the next 10 to 15 years." 

Indeed, at seventeen (now twenty) years, this is likely at its peak and should continue to drink well for another decade. Thankfully, we still hold a couple more bottles of this vintage of the half dozen vintages in our collection (which includes still a Alec birthyear vintage 1990). The fill level was perfect while the cork appearing perfect was a bit soft upon extraction using a 'ahso' two pronged cork puller.  

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth, elegant, briary black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of cassis, dusty cedar and hints of dark chocolate, herbs and creamy oak turning to gripping tannin on a fruit filled finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=328095

https://grothwines.com/ 

@GrothWines

Wednesday, April 10, 2024

Whitehall Lane Petit Verdot with pasta, red sauce and meatballs

Whitehall Lane Petit Verdot with pasta, red sauce and meatballs 

Midweek dinner at home, Linda prepared spaghetti with tangy red sauce and meatballs. I pulled from the cellar as a wine accompaniment a big single varietal Petit Verdot. Rather than a red blend, I was seeking a single varietal akin a traditional Italian such as Nebbiolo or Sangiovese and chose this Petit Verdot, typically a Bordeaux varietal, for its characteristic structure, full body and round fruit, to complement the pasta red sauce and meatballs. It proved to be an ideal pairing. I write often in these pages about the importance of pairing wine with food, which amplifies and multiplies the enjoyment of both when done correctly. 

Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Petit Verdot 2014

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine during our private tasting at the Whitehall Lane estate winery and vineyards in Napa during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2018. 

I wrote about Whitehall Lane estate vineyards and winery and this label in these pages and replay excerpts here. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/07/whitehall-lane-cellars-winery-visit-and.html

From post - Saturday, June 20, 2020

Whitehall Lane Petit Verdot


After a sensational Petit Verdot tasting with dinner the other evening, I pulled another 100% Petit Verdot from the cellar for a repeat, comparison tasting experience. We tasted another Napa Valley Petit Verdot, this time from Whitehall Lane which is just up the Route 29 Napa Highway from Piazza Del Dotto. This was the same vintage, 2014, as the Piazza Del Dotto we tasted the other evening. 

We tasted and acquired this label during our visit to the winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018.

Whitehall Vineyards Napa Valley Rutherford Fawn Park Vineyard Petit Verdot 2014

This is 100% Petit Verdot, sourced from the Whitehall estate Fawn Park Vineyard, located in the Rutherford appellation  (AVA - American Viticulture Area), just off the Napa Valley floor on the eastern hillside in St. Helena. It is one of seven vineyards on the Whitehall Lane estate.

Like the traditional Bordeaux producers, consistent with the percentage of fruit in a typical Bordeaux Blend, the vineyard is planted primarily to high-power Cabernet Sauvignon with just a small two-acre block of Petit Verdot. As I wrote the other evening, Petit Verdot is usually added to the blend in a small portion, usually less than ten percent, to add color and structure to the mix. 

According to Whitehall Lane, the vineyard has been producing for about twenty-five years but the property’s history pre-dates the vines or its buildings. It’s been told that local Native Americans mined the neighboring Glass Mountain where they turned the mined obsidian into tools and arrowheads. There is a home on the property that was constructed in 1865 with a second story addition made when Judge Chiles owned the estate in 1915.
A vintage barn pre-dates the house and was constructed in 1905 using timbers harvested from Howell Mountain. The property was originally used as a dairy to supply milk to the nearby St. Helena Sanitarium—now known as St. Helena Hospital.


The property was owned by the Hultman Family from 1928 to 1978, and they ran the dairy and raised chickens there. In 1978, Loren Sorenson purchased the land, planted the vineyard, dug a spring-fed pond and continued a small farm for the local 4-H program. 

Whitehall Lane was founded in 1979 and was acquired in 1993 by the current owners, the Leonardini Family of San Francisco and Saint Helena.

The property is named Fawn Park Vineyard after the road that borders the southern side of the estate. This road was originally the stagecoach road going up and over Howell Mountain to Angwin and Pope Valley.

Tasting this again, I wish I had bought more as this is a big bold expressive fruit forward style that we love.

Consistent with earlier tastings of this wine back in 2018 and 2020, this was "Dark inky blackish purple, full bodied, structured concentrated rich tongue coating black fruits, hints of clove spice and earth, with tongue puckering chalky tannins that form distinct 'legs' on the glass. This wine begs for hearty cheese, grilled steak or darkest mocha chocolate."

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2545349

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/11/big-red-petit-verdot-for-serious-sipping.html

https://whitehalllane.com/ 

Monday, April 8, 2024

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah with BBQ Ribs

 Biale ‘Royal Punishers’ Petit Syrah with Baby Back Ribs

Linda brought home from Costco a rack of baby back ribs, normally one of my favorite eats when paired with appropriate BBQ complementary wine. Tonight’s ribs were disappointing, being very grisly and fatty, barely acceptable for the first meal, and not so for any follow on leftovers. 

Never-the-less, I had pulled from the cellar a BBQ friendly wine for the occasion, in anticipation of and hoping for a better outcome.

Biale Royal Punishers 2016 Petit Syrah


This is 100% Petit Sirah from Biale Vineyards, a family owned producer that has been farming most notably Zinfandel in Napa since 1937.

Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to the 1930s when the Biale family grew Zinfandel grapes and other produce, selling the grapes to local wineries, saving some for their own wine production. During prohibition, to obfuscate their banned trade selling bottles of illicit homemade Zinfandel, they would refer to their dark fruit filled wines as "Black Chickens" over the party line phone service.

The current instantiation of Biale Winery was formally founded in 1991 when Aldo Biale and his son Robert formed a partnership with winemaker Al Perry and wine salesman Dave Pramuk. Their initial product was Zinfandel, eventually adding Petite Sirah grown on their 25 acres in Napa Valley.  

Despite its popularity, the Petite Sirah grape is somewhat rare with less than 10,000 acres planted worldwide, with the bulk of that in California. In France, the grape is referred to as Durif. Not to be confused with Syrah, Petite Sirah is a cross of Syrah and Peloursin. The result is darker and fuller. 

In Napa Valley, the market has turned to Cabernet Sauvignon and other French varieties leaving Zinfandel as a rare varietal comprising less that 3% of the valley's grape production. And, Petit Sirah an even smaller fraction of that. 

The inaugural wine production of Biale Petit Sirah was a quantity of 400 cases produced from 8 acres of old non-irrigated low-yielding vines called "Aldo's Vineyard." Today, Bob Biale, Dave Pramuk, and winemaker Steve Hall specialize in a broad portfolio of twenty Zinfandel labels each representing the terroir driven personalities of their property with some of the oldest vineyards in America.

Biale Zinfandel is produced in a distinctive style utilizing intensive old world Burgundian methodology from vineyard to barrel to bottle and are recognized as one of the top Zinfandel producers in America. 

Being darker and fuller than even ZInfandel, a traditional fabulous varietal wine for BBQ, one can see why I consider a go-to wine for hearty robust zesty BBQ.

This bottle is the last of a selection I obtained several years ago of this label. The previous bottle consumed from that lot was in late 2020 when I wrote about the producer and wine in more detail in the blogpost excerpt that follows.

Originally posted Thursday, November 19, 2020

Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

Robert Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

This thread of a mini vertical tasting continues. It started a couple weeks ago when we opened from our cellar the 2013 vintage of this unique varietal, Napa Valley Petite Sirah, from a traditional producer of Napa Valley Zinfandels, Robert Biale.

That bottle exceeded my expectations for a big fruit forward sipper. (It got 95 points from  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Wine Spectator noting it as "Highly Recommended").

As I wrote earlier, we enjoyed that bottle so much with its rich, concentrated full bodied flavorful fruit, a style we love, I sought to replace it. Naturally, the 2013 release was no longer available but I was able to acquire several bottles of the newer 2016 vintage at Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine superstore. For reference, Binny's sells this label for $42. The producer's 'published' release price is $49.

Following that tasting and a subsequent tasting of the 2018 release, we dined out at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria and I took BYOB the 2016 release to share and compare with the recent tastings of the '13 and '18 vintages. 

For our dinner, we took BYOB from our cellar this recent wine purchase that we picked up to try as we consider buying more. Several weeks ago we drank from our cellar the 2013 vintage release of this label. When I went to replace it, the 2018 release was available. I then found several bottles of this 2016. They had a few remaining so I brought this to taste, and to compare with the other two recent vintages tasted. 

wrote back at that time about Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley and their work with Zinfandel and Petite Sirah sourced from their 25 acres of vineyards in Napa Valley where it is perfectly suited to the moderate and dry growing season. The resulting dark, full, deep, inky and powerful, Petite Sirah has become a favorite grape among winemakers looking to pump up underpowered wines in need of deep fruit, color, and structure. As a standalone varietal, this was almost too much for our moderate pastas, veal, salmon and ahi tuna dinner entrees, delightful none-the-less.

Robert Biale Royal Punishers Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016

The Robert Biale Royal Punishers Petite Sirah is sourced from Carpy-Connolly Ranch in Rutherford. There the well-drained gravel and sandy loam soils, and warm daytime temperatures are ideally suited for ripening Petite Sirah grapes.

This 2016 was more like the big bold 2013 vintage than the 2018 we tasted the other evening. 

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by James Suckling and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by critic/pundit Jeb Dunnuck.

Winemaker’s Notes for this release - “The 2016 Royal Punishers has a healthy deep, dark blue/black color profile. Aromas of plum, quince, violets, figs, molasses, graphite and marbled rye awaken the nose. The entry is viscous and weighty, then builds into a broad mid palate structure which has layers of ripe, black fruit flavors. The oak profile is balanced and the tannins are mouthwatering and medium grained which hol the fruit profile and carry a long, lingering finish.” 

This 2016 Petite Sirah Royal Punishers spent 17 months in 30% new barrels.

This is dark inky purple colored, full bodied, big, bold, concentrated with moderate firm structure, the black berry and black raspberry fruits are overtaken by notes of camphor or what Wine Enthusiast noted as 'a touch of heat', on opening that ‘burn off’ after a period of breathing and settling. Accented by notes of graphite and spice, hints of pepper emerged on the firm but approachable tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2912156


https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/10/robert-biale-royal-punishers-and-dalila.html


Earlier postings of various vintages of this label - 

Robert Biale 'Royal Punisher' Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2018 - November 15, 2020
Robert Biale 'Royal Punisher' Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2016 - November 19, 2020

Robert Biale 'Royal Punisher' Napa Valley Petite Sirah 2013 - October 22, 2020