Friday, March 11, 2022

Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

Son Alec (our blue eye'd boy) came over for Friday night dinner with Vivianna, new mom, and new baby daughter/grand-daughter, Marylin. So, we whimsically opened one of our favorite labels, a signature label for son Alec, Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah from Mollydooker, and a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This was in remembrance of our visit to the Rhone wine region together. 

This is one of two of what we consider our signature wines for our son Alec, along with Alec's Blend from Napa Lewis Cellars. 

For the get-together, Linda also picked up some artisan Murray's cheeses from the legendary NYC cheese purveyor. Murray's wine and cheese bistro in Greenwich Village was a favorite eatery with Alec when we visited on numerous occasions during the years he and Viv lived in Manhattan. How ironic or fortuitous that Murray's was acquired by the parent of our local grocer/marketer Marianno's and is now available here locally!

With our wine tasting, Linda served two of our favorite Murray's Cheeses, Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog and Murray's Delice de Bourgogne along with her own pimento cheese spread. 

From Murray's Cheese site: "Humboldt Fog is perhaps the most recognizable American original cheese. Handmade at Cypress Grove's Northern California creamery from local goat's milk and lightly aged, Humboldt Fog boasts a fudgy texture and tangy flavor. The creamline develops into unctuous bliss, and the rind is paper-thin and brimming with minerality. You'll know it's the Fog by the characteristic line of ash running through the center"”creamery founder Mary Keehn's nod to the French classic Morbier"” and by its birthday cake-like shape."

From the Murray's Cheese Blog, "Many people commonly mistake the dark line running through and around Humboldt Fog as blue mold. In fact, it is an edible ash made from vegetables. The fresh curd is pressed half-way into a cheesecloth-lined mold and then the powdered ash is sprinkled on top. The molds are filled the rest of the way with curd and then the outside is generously coated with ash before they begin aging.'

"Cypress Grove’s amazing goat cheeses–Humboldt Fog, with its bright white, cakey paste and gorgeous line of gray ash through the middle tops many people’s Favorite Cheese List–and if you haven’t: get to it. Based in Arcata, California, they’ve been making cheese since the early 1980s. With Mary Keehn at the heart of the operation, the company became one of the country’s foremost artisanal cheesemakers."

As seen in Town and Country Magazine December 2012 

We first discovered Delice de Bourgogne at the French Market in Delray Beach Florida. We were delighted to find it available through cheese purveyor, Murray's. 

"Murray's Delice de Bourgogne is a tribute to small scale industrial French cheese-making, a pasteurized triple creme (75% butterfat in dry matter) that marries full-fat cow milk with fresh cream, producing an unapologetically rich, whipped delight. Unlike many straightforward triple-cremes, this one has a thin, pungent mold rind that imparts straw and mushroom aromas, complementing the buttery yellow, sweet cream interior. Makes a dreamy breakfast, lunch or dessert - just add champagne!" 

While Champagne might have been in order, we had already selected the wines to pair with our dinner - some of our favorites, that we enjoy with almost anything, including these artisan cheeses.

Mollydooker Blue Eye'd Boy Syrah 2013

I pulled this from the cellar at Linda's request as it is one of her favorite labels and winestyles, and was especially appropriate with son Alec joining us for dinner as noted above, it is one of our signature wines we collect and enjoy in tribute to him. 

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis.  I chronicled Mollydooker brand and portfolio in a recent blogpost

As I wrote in that blogpost, the Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

We love this full-throttle shiraz and collect it as part of our Mollydooker portfolio and as part of our Alec collection of labels we keep on hand to toast son Alec. We served an earlier vintage release of this wine at a graduation celebration for Alec back in his college apartment.

Winemaker Notes for this label release - "The delicious berry fruit and spice flavors of the cooler climate wine from the Joppich Vineyard in Langhorne Creek gives the Blue Eyed Boy its crowd appeal. We blend it with McLaren Vale Shiraz to add intensity, vibrancy and richness. This Shiraz is bursting with generous with amounts of fresh plum and blueberry, accompanied by spice and licorice all sorts. Supple texture and a creamy finish features layers of biscuit cream and espresso coffee. A well weighted wine with a truly elegant finish."

This was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator.

This is a full throttle powerful high octane Shiraz. If you think that is over the top with the superlatives, try this wine. It's sometimes over the top for my liking and I like big bold style wine. Linda actually likes this style. 

Some Cellartrackers talked about using the Mollydooker Shake on this wine. No wonder the producer introduced the Mollydooker 'shake' where they actually prescribe shaking the bottle before opening to awaken or to settle the fruit! We own and drink a lot of their wine and I have never gotten into the habit of doing so, perhaps tonight we should have!

Reading up on the Mollydooker Shake, it is prescribed only for still red wines of two years of age or less. It is to release the nitrogen in the bottle that they use instead of the normal sulphites commonly used to preserve wines.  Sulphites can cause an allergic asthma type reaction in some people and Mollydooker realise a lot of people are sensitive to them. So, wherever they can, they use nitrogen to protect the wine so that they can reduce the amount of sulphites.

Dark blackish garnet purple colored, full bodied, dense, rich, spicy, concentrated blackberry, blueberry and raspberry fruits accented by notes of tar, leather, tobacco and notes of oak. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1897876

I also pulled this Châteauneuf-du-Pape in remembrance of our trip with Alec and Vivianna to the region. 

Domaine Ferrand Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005

We visited Châteauneuf-du-Pape with Alec and Vivianna during our Rhone Southern France region tour in 2019, so I pulled a blend to accompany our Italian beef dinner. 

At seventeen years, this was likely at the apex of its drinking window and profile, not likely to improve with any further aging, but showing no sign of diminution whatsoever. The fill level, foil, label, and importantly, the cork were all in perfect condition. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 94 points *Highly Recommended* by Wine Spectator.

Classic Châteauneuf du Pape blend of the GSM requisite grape varietals, 94% Grenache and the remainder Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, concentrated blackberry and plum fruits with notes of anise, herbs, tobacco, spice, and a bit of graphite anise with moderate tannins on the finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=324980

 

 


Thursday, March 10, 2022

Dunham Cellars Trutina Columbia Valley Red 2009

Dunham Cellars Trutina Columbia Valley Red Blend 2009

Friend and Linda's sorority sister Pat R came over with friend Richard and we opened this nice pleasant but serious sipping wine with a medley of cheeses and desserts.

We discovered Dunham Cellars Cabernets on-line with Winebid.com. Having been awakened to the brand, when we saw this label at local merchant Vin Chicago, we grabbed it, tried it, liked it, and went back and bought some more. That was back with the 2009 vintage, and we then purchased the 2010 vintage when it arrived the following year.

At a price point of $25, this provides reasonable QPR - Quality-Price-Ratio when compared with equivalent quality Bordeaux Blends and Cabernets from California and Washington State.  

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate says, "This is the least expensive, yet the richest of the lineup" from Dunham Cellars.

We enjoyed this label during the Covid19 shut-in as we remained at home enjoying intimate dinners and wines from our cellar. I have joked that if such a situation occurred, we'd be stocked for up to year with wines from our cellar, and here we are, albeit hopefully for a couple weeks duration.

We hold close to a dozen vintages in a vertical collection of Dunham Cellars flagship Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine Blend going back to the nineties. We discovered these Bordeaux varietal wines from Columbia River Valley in Washington, not well known for being a Bordeaux varietal region several years back. We stopped by the Dunham Cellars winery and tasting room during our trip to Woodinville, Washington, site of over a hundred tasting rooms of Washington State wines during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour year before last.

We discovered this second label from Dunham at Vin Chicago when they still had their brick and mortar store in Naperville. We bought some, tried it, and went back and bought more. We still hold about a half case and are being rewarded for doing so.

This Trutina Walla Walla Red Blend from our cellar was a perfect compliment to the beef pot roast with grilled asparagus, fresh berries, roasted walnuts and artisan cheese and accompaniments dinner.

Trutina is a second label from Dunham at a lower pricepoint offers great QPR (Quality to Price ratio) in this complex and expressive red wine blend. We continue to find many of the Columbia Valley Reds have great quality and aging ability and offer great value over their French and California counterparts.

Dunham Cellars 'Trutina' Columbia Valley Red Wine 2009

Tonight, this was consistent with our earlier tasting experience which is recorded in these pages from 9/18/2018, while not as complex or polished as the flagship label, Trutina was very impressive going on a decade of age.

This showed bright garnet and inky purple color, medium full bodied with huge aromatics of floral and lavender with full forward bright vibrant flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits with a layer of vanilla and sweet caramel mocha on a full cloying lingering tannin finish.

The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, and 4% Malbec.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1456899 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/09/dunham-cellars-trutina-columbia-valley.html

https://www.dunhamcellars.com/


Tuesday, March 8, 2022

Team dinner at Italian Village Chicago

Team dinner at Italian Village Chicago - new menu specials and new wine (s)

Holocene Memorialis Pinot Noir and Soffocone di Vincigliata Toscana Sangiovese

With key staffers in town for meetings and a workshop, we dined at our regular customary dinesite, Italian Village, Chicago

Collaborating with Wine Director, Jared Gelband, we selected a traditional Italian Tuscan Sangiovese, and for a change, a new release Oregon Pinot Noir from Pacific Northwest winemaker Todd Alexander

We hosted Todd Alexander and wife and partner Carrie at Italian Village during their release promotion tour visit to Chicago back in 2016, and introduced them to our friend and Wine Director, Jared Gelband

Jared was impressed with Todd's 'artwork' and selected several of his labels to feature on the extensive award winning winelist

Jared continues to carry Todd's labels on the extraordinary Italian Village winelist, which is primarily Italian, including this recent release of Todd and Carrie's new Holocene brand. 


Holocene Memorialis Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton) 2018

This is the fourth vintage for this Pinot Noir project from Todd Alexander, winemaker at Force Majeure. The first vintage was 2015, released in early 2017. It's a single-vineyard cuvée (vineyard unidentified) from the MonksGate vineyard in the Yamhill Carlton AVA in the Willamette Valley Oregon. 

Todd moved to Washington from Napa Valley where he crafting wines for ultra-premium producer  Bryant Family Vineyards. Today he is winemaker for Force Majeure in Walla Walla and have recently released his own brands Paxsa and this Holocene. 

This is another project of Todd Alexander, who moved to Washington from California (he worked at Bryant Family Vineyards from 2010 to 2014 and was responsible for vinifying the 2012 and 2013 wines) to take over winemaking at Force Majeure and launched this project to make Pinot Noir from Oregon fruit.

Todd partners with a few very small, diverse and amazing vineyards in the Willamette Valley, sourcing fruit from these dry-farmed sites that emphasize low yields, sustainable practices and produce outstanding fruit. 

Says Todd, "Everyone knows that the Willamette Valley is an amazing place to grow Pinot Noir. When I relocated from Napa Valley to partner up with Force Majeure Vineyards, I knew I also wanted to start a project where I could focus attention on a varietal and growing region that I loved. Part of the excitement of being in the Pacific Northwest is the ability to have access to so many amazing vineyards and so much diversity, along with the opportunity to push boundaries and try new things."  

Todd has developed a reputation for crafting much heralded, highly regarded wines that reflect their "real sense of place" through minimal manipulation, 'utilizing very low-impact, non-industrial techniques, native yeasts, little extraction and little new oak, and never filtering or fining'. 

So, it was only fitting that when Jared received and offered from his allocation this small limited production release from Todd, we were compelled to try it with our dinner. 

Ravioli Di Costata Corta Brasata
This was a perfect complement to our ravioli stuffed with short rib dinner special, a new offering on the IV menu - Ravioli Di Costata Corta Brasata - pasta stuffed with short rib, parmesan and ricotta cheese, mirepox in a red wine demi glaze. 

Readers of this site know I am not a big Pinot drinker, opting more for Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. Never-the-less, the fun of wine is trying new labels, varietals, regions and producers. 

I loved this wine which exceeded my expectations and sets a new benchmark for me for Oregon Pinots going forward. I am a member of their club (s) and regularly take my allocation of their other labels, but immediately signed up to get on the list for this label release (which is naturally sold out) when it becomes available in the future. 

This label release was awarded 93-95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Vinous.This is from the 2018 Oregon vintage that was a warmer than average year, sourced from a west-facing hillside of sedimentary soils located in the heart of the Willamette Valley (not far from Beaux Freres and Shea Vineyard). This is 100% Pinot Noir that was 20% destemmed and brought up in 20% French oak, 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, elegant and seductively textured and structured, perfectly balanced and integrated raspberry and strawberry fruits, with notes of floral, herbs, hints of sweet milk chocolate, white pepper and spice, with a silky smooth lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3642047

 
 

Bibi Graetz Soffocone di Vincigliata Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend 2016

For our second wine, we ordered from the winelist this Tuscan Sangiovese Blend

This is from well known producer Bibi Graetz, who, since his first release back in 2000, has developed a reputation as one of Italy's most ingenious winemakers. He produces a broad portfolio of wines including popular labels Testamatta and Colore which have earned him almost cult status to many Italian wine aficionados. 

Born and raised in Italy, Bibi makes his wine in his family home, Castello di Vincigliata, a medieval castle which stands on a rocky hill to the east of the village of Fiesole overlooking Florence in the Italian region of Tuscany.  

Bibi inherited the ancient historic castle acquired by his parents over 60 years ago. Surrounded by vines, he set out to teach himself winemaking from grapes initially from the small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole, but expanded and grew to bringing in grapes contracted from other growers around the region. Through sourcing arrangements with growers from parcels of old vines around Tuscany, Bibi had full control of style and crafting of his wines. 

This label, Soffocone di Vincigliata, is the only wine named by a specific designated vineyard of production, punctuating the special link between this wine and the hill where Bibi Graetz started his project. The beautiful vineyard of Vincigliata in Fiesole overlooks Firenze with one of the most romantic view of the city, from which Bibi took inspiration for the name and the unique label.

In the vein of Super Tuscans, but a little on the more elegant side, this wine is structured, complex and sophisticated. Sourced from 40 year-old vines it is primarily Sangiovese, 90%, but also blended with grape varieties Canaiolo Nero, 7% and 3% Colorino. It is fermented in stainless steel followed by aging in French barrels for 15 months and finished in bottle for 6 months.

 
RM 89 points.  

https://www.bibigraetz.com/it/index.php

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/wine-cellar/

https://twitter.com/italianvlg

https://twitter.com/jzgwine


 

 

 

Saturday, February 26, 2022

OTBN 2022 Charleston

Change of venue - rhythm as Pour Boys OTBN 2022 moves to Charleston

Our Pour Boys wine group convened for our annual homage to the vinous vinifera in the ritual that has come to be known as OTBN – Open That Bottle Night. In planning this year’s event, wisdom prevailed and we chose to adjust our rhythm and head south for the mid-winter event vs hosting the event in Chicago. We’ll then pivot to host the summer event, that we held last year in Florida, in Chicago, to align with the seasons.

In that regard, Bill and Beth C hosted OTBN at their home in Seabrook Island, SC. In the custom and spirit of OTBN, we Pour Boys, pull from our cellar collections bottles that we had been holding for a special occasion, whose time had not yet come. 

Alas, since 2000, OTBN – Open That Bottle (To) Night is for gathering and enjoying such bottles on the last Saturday night in February. 

We kicked off this years' OTBN 2022 Gala Weekend with tasting and dinner at Forty-Eight Wine Bar dinner last night at 48 Wine Bar

For the gala weekend, I selected and took from our cellar four vintage Cabernets, from select birthyears, or designated select producers, or single vineyards, and a twenty year old dessert wine from our cellar collection.

As I wrote in my blogpost of last night's OTBN 22 Kick-off dinner at 48 Wine Bar,  our Pour Boys wine group convened for our annual homage to the vinous vinifera in the ritual that has come to be known as OTBN – Open That Bottle Night. In planning this year’s event, wisdom prevailed and we chose to adjust our rhythm and head south for the mid-winter event vs hosting the event in Chicago. We’ll then pivot to host the summer event, that we held last year in Florida, in Chicago, to align with the seasons. 


In that regard, Bill and Beth C graciously opened their home and hosted OTBN at their home in Seabrook Island, SC. In the custom and spirit of OTBN, we Pour Boys, pull from our cellar collections bottles that we had been holding for a special occasion, whose time had not yet come.

Since we traveled to what became a weekend getaway, our usual annual one-night dinner affair became a weekend of three tasting sessions.  

Last night, we kicked off the weekend with a perfect wine focused Kick-off dinner at 48 Wine Bar in Freshfields Village Kiawah, Island

Tonight, the last Saturday night in February is the customary anniversary date for this annual event. 

Our hosts, Bill and Beth, prepared a beef tenderloin dinner with twice baked potatoes, haricut verts, and Gloria's brussel sprouts and Dan's shrimp scampi.

Everyone brought a couple or several bottles for sharing during the weekend. As a result we had selected fourteen bottles to open and serve with the Saturday night dinner - two champagnes, ten reds, a port and a dessert wine. 

For the red wines, there was one Burgundy, one Argentinian red blend, seven Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons and a vintage port.


For the gala weekend, I selected four vintage Cabernets, from select birthyears, or designated select producers, or single vineyards, and a twenty year old dessert wine from our cellar collection.

We opened with a selection of artisan cheeses. 

For the initial courses, we had two vintage Champagnes - Bill opened a Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs Champagne 2000, and Dan opened a Louis Roederer Cristal Vintage Champagne 2007

Dan prepared a sauteed shrimp scampi course that was complemented perfectly with these champagnes. 

As is the custom and in the spirit of OTBN - there were no rules or theme - bring a special bottle that has been waiting to be consumed. Hence we had some old and some new - a good mix for the adventurous old guys who are intrigued by an aged vintage label, and more youthful easier drinking more recent release wines. 

We opened a couple of the young big bold reds for the ladies to enjoy - and for the men too, of course, while at the same time, opening some of the 'suspect' wines to check out for appropriate placement in the tasting flight order. 

The order in which wines are tasted in a tasting flight is important to optimize the ability to discriminate between the wines and to maximize the enjoyment and appreciation of the wines. Each tasting of a set of diverse wines, we go through this ritual to taste each wine to determine its suitable sequence. Always start with the lighter and simpler wines first. A heavier or heartier wine will overpower lesser wines and you'll lose all sense of discrimination or calibration for them.

After the Champagnes, we pivoted to the red wines flight with the sole Burgundy (Pinot Noir), opening with a Louis Latour Romanee-Saint-Vivent Les Quatre Journaux Borgogne brought by Dan from his cellar. 

Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru "Les Quatre Journaux" 2003

The Latour family has been proprietors of a part of Romanée-Saint-Vivant since December 1898. "Les Quatre Journaux" is a magnificent plot of land situated at the South-West of Romanée Saint Vivant, a few meters from the legendary Romanée-Conti vineyard. Romanee Saint Vivant is separated into two parcels, Clos des Quatre Journaux and the northern plot. Louis Latour has the prime plot of Romanee St Vivant, a 0.8ha plot right below Romanee Conti.

A "Journal" is an old Burgundian measurement corresponding to approximately 0.4 hectares (34,28 ares). Even though the Latours' initial purchase carried the entirety of the plot, half of it was sold some years later. Today Maison Louis Latour owns 0.8 hectares of Romanée-Saint-Vivant. It producers a marvelously aromatic wine, with a velvety texture which culminates in a persistent and powerful finish in the mouth. It is one of the greatest red wines from the region. From the Region is Côte de Nuits, the Village Vosne-Romanée, in the Appellation Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru. As is the custom and specified varietal for the locale, the grape variety Pinot Noir.

Winemakers' tasting note - "This wine of great complexity reveals a superb spicy nose, expressing notes of liquorice, violet and red fruits. The amplitude of this wine unfolds on the palate highlighting its elegance and aromatic persistence. A harmonious wine combining soft tannins and a great earthiness."

At twenty years this is likely at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve with further aging, but capable of being at prime drinking for another decade or more. 

This label release was awarded 93 points by Allen Meadows - Burghoun, and 91 points by Wine Spectator who wrote "Lovely ripe black cherry and plum aromas and flavors mark this pure, silky red. It's very elegant, not that concentrated, but shows fine balance and length."

The Cellartracker average rating was 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=385354

https://www.louislatour.com/en/wines/107/romanee-saint-vivant-grand-cru-les-quatre-journaux/2003

Dalle Valle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

I obtained a couple of these bottles years ago on release in anticipation of the vintage being significant for a celebration at some point. Indeed, this is fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth’s son’s birthyear vintage. So, we have been holding several 1989 vintage labels expecting at some point we would open and share them together. Once again, this weekend, in the spirit and custom of OTBN, being hosted by Bill and Beth, I pulled two 1989 vintage bottles to share and enjoy. 

This turned out to be a bust - the disappointment of the evening/weekend. Perhaps it was due to bottle variation, or a bottle that had at some point been mishandled or tainted. Or, the wine was simply beyond its acceptable drinking window. We have another bottle of the same label from the same release which may determine whether this was or wasn't an anomaly. 

The next bottle was from the same varietal, region and vintage, and it was extraordinary. 

Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

Bill and we are both collectors of the Freemark Abbey portfolio of wines dating back several decades. Over the years, Bill has tended to acquired this single vineyard designated label from the Freemark Abbey Sycamore Vineyard, while I tended to acquired their Bosche Vineyard label. So, it was fitting that for OTBN, hosted by Bill and Beth, that I bring this Sycamore Vineyard 1989 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This was also relevant as it a birthyear vintage wine for their son, Matt.

We’ve enjoyed many vintages of this label together over the years including an earlier tasting together, the post repeated below. We've visited the winery together on several occasions including a library cellar tour back in 2009.

Primary Vineyard: Sycamore Vineyard—Rutherford (100%): Small 24-acre vineyard located about 1.2 miles south of Bosche, right up against the Mayacamas Range, this vineyard has a rich clay loam. Sycamore Vineyard produces small berries reminiscent of mountain fruit berries, with intense extract of color and flavor. The color is very dark early in the fermentation, with flavors of black currant and black berry with a forest floor complexity.

Winemaker's notes - "The nose opens with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black current and boysenberry.  The fruit elements are complimented with notes of forest floor, cigar box, dark chocolate and espresso.  The wine is rich and balanced and French oak barrels add the ideal amount of complexity with notes of baking spice and warm vanilla.  This is a full-bodied wine with integrated tannins that give it a long, lingering finish.  Stunning. Life span in a proper cellar 20-30 years."

This is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

This was in remarkable, perfect condition - by every measure - the fill level, tissue, label, foil, and importantly, the cork - were all in best possible, near perfect condition. 

My winesite postings of previous tastings of this label, pre-this blog - the previous tasting was also with Bill and Beth when we did a mini-vertical of three vintages of this label with two of their son's.

Jan 21, 2006 - Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 and 1997; 1989 - From Rick's cellar - RM 88 - Full firm - dark berry and black cherry fruit, earthy and slight wood flavor. 1997 From Bill's cellar - RM 91 - Full bodied and firm but nicely balanced, still slightly closed, full dark berry fruit, hint of currant and cherry with smooth tannins. Tasted w/ Bill & Beth C, w/ Drew, Matt and L with fabulous beef tenderloin dinner.

Nov 23, 2004 - Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 - WS 88 RM 87 WS Review says it well - Dark, firm and structured, with more richness, depth and flavor than the Bosché Vineyard. Shows off mature spice, currant, cedar and cherry flavors that are long and complex. Impressive.--1989 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now. 3,050 cases made. (JL)

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27548

The current release 2017, producer's page for this label:

https://www.freemarkabbey.com/wine/rutherford/sycamore-vineyard-cabernet-sauvignon

The blend for this label is typically about 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Merlot (2017 vintage example).

Another one of my contributions - another Napa Cabernet, since Bill and I are both fans and worshippers of the famous Tokalon Beskstoffer Vineyard in Napa Valley. 

Indeed, we’ve collected, and consumed numerous vineyard designated wines sourced from this legendary site. Moreover, Bill and Beth have had the pleasure of staying on the property in a residence of one of their son’ Will’s colleagues. So, I pulled this special label to share and enjoy with them as part of this year’s OTBN celebration.

Delectus Tokalon Beckstoffer Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Beckstoffer’s Georges III vineyard has a long and storied history.  Records show that grapes were first planted here in 1895 by Napa Valley Pioneer Thomas Rutherford, Mrs. Thomas Rutherford was  granddaughter of Napa Valley’s pioneering vigneron George C. Yount.  

In 1928, the 300-acre parcel was purchased by Beaulieu founder Georges de Latour, becoming the source of the legendary Rutherford Cabernets made by Beaulieu’s famous winemaker André Tchelistcheff.  These BV Rutherford Cabernets achieved wide acclaim beginning in the 1940s and established Beaulieu Vineyard’s pre-eminence in the making of fine, world-class Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Beckstoffer Vineyards owns and farms more than 3,600 acres of highly prestigious grape growing vineyards in Napa Valley, Mendocino County and the Red Hills of Lake County. A senior executive with Heublein in the 1960s, Andy Beckstoffer is credited with steering Napa Valley vintners towards improving farming and the quality of the grapes used for wine. Grapes from any Beckstoffer vineyards are considered among the finest available in California.

Beckstoffer Vineyards purchased the site in 1988 and meticulously replanted it with new Cabernet Sauvignon clones, using tighter vine spacing and advanced trellising systems to enhance both fruit quality and quantity.  
 
Today, the Beckstoffer vineyard has a plantable area of 251 acres, its vines growing in prime ‘Rutherford dust’ – the gravelly, loamy soils derived from the alluvial sandstone bedrock that is the hallmark of this part of Napa Valley.  Lying low on the valley floor, Georges III vineyard benefits from the Rutherford Bench, a strip of land near Napa River and Conn Creek where pockets of clay beneath the old creek-bed soils giving the vines better water access. Combined with excellent western exposure and the cooling morning mists, fruit ripens slowly and steadily here, producing grapes of immense finesse and character. 
 
Delectus produce limited small quantity wines handcrafted from select vineyards throughout Napa Valley. They focus on Bordeaux reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot and strive to produce wines that are balanced, distinctive and age-worthy.  Over the years they have received high scores and praise from wine critics. They pride themselves in producing 'bold and assertive, expressive red wines that never compromise the art of winemaking'. 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote, "The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard George III is a complex offering, exhibiting spice box, cedar, coffee bean, and black currants in its medium to full-bodied, ripe yet soft, fleshy personality." 

This was holding its own at 25 years, showing no diminution from age, probably at peak now and should hold for a couple more years, but not likley to improve further. The fill level, label, foil and ork were all in ideal condition for their age. Time to drink - an classic OTBN selection.

The bottle was packaged with the dipped wax capsule which was rather rare back in those days, used by Randy Dunn's Howell Mountain Cab, which we also opened tonight, but few others.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits with earthy leather, tobacco and licorice with tangy acidity on the finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=61878

 https://www.delectuswinery.com/

Bob brought two very interesting bottles - a unique blend from Argentina, Vistalba, and a ultrapremium surprise label from Napa Valley - Beau Vigne Juliet.

Bodega Vistalba Corte A Rare Red Blend 2016 

Bob and Gloria came in from Delray Beach for the wine weekend. 

Bob brought this bottle back from a trip to the region - a gift from his colleague there, who said it was one of his favorites. 

This is from the Finca Vistalba High Mendoza river basin, in the Luján de Cuyo region in Mendoza, Argentina. Vistalba’s vineyards, planted in 1948, sit at an impressive 980 metres above sea level where conditions are ideal for producing smooth, well-rounded reds thanks to the sunny days and cooler nights. The terroir is well-drained silt loam soil with medium to low fertility and low content of organic material, with climate of harsh winters and warm summers with mild or warm days and very cold nights. The broad daily temperature range (15°C/59°F) to which vines are exposed during their vegetative growth favors color development and tannin production.

This is a unique blend of 54% Malbec, 30% Bonarda and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon.  

None of us had ever heard of or experienced Bonarda. It apparently added a layer of sweetness to blend.

Bonarda from Argentina is not the same wine as Italian Bonarda. It is actually from France where is known as Charbono, identical to a grape found in old vineyards in Napa, also under the name Charbono. Argentina’s Bonarda is actually a grape called Douce Noir (“doose nwar”). 

Bonarda wines from Argentina are very fruity on the nose, with notes of black cherry compote, fresh blueberry, and plum. They can be complex, giving off nuanced aromas of violets, 5-spice, allspice, and peonies. They may have slight smoky notes of cigar box, sweet figs, and chocolate. 

Bonarda is known to add fruitiness, a medium-body, juicy acidity, and a smooth, low-tannin finish. It is said to taste like an exotic Merlot and it’s just as easy to drink. Hence, it is fitting that it is included in a Bordeaux varietal blend.

The 2016 Vintage was rated 89 points by Wine Enthusiast. "Tarry black fruit and black olive aromas include barrel spice, graphite and gritty notes. On the palate, this Malbec blend feels lively but raw and grating, likely a reflection of 2016's rainy conditions. Salty berry flavors are fully oaked, while this feels tannic and grabby on a finish that tastes saucy and savory."

This was aged 20% on french oak for 18 months and stored in the bottle for 6 months before being released to the market. 

Winemaker notes: "Inky purple color with a dark core. Aromas of mineral violets asian spices and assorted black and blue fruits set the stage for a dense structured savory and impeccably balanced wine that will benefit from another 3-4 years of cellaring to reveal its full potential." – Bodega Vistalba

This was packaged in a large heavy oversized bottle, almost akin to a magnum. I show it next to the Beau Vigne, packaged in a 'regualar' standard sized 750 bottle.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, full bodied, concentrated firm structured but slightly austere blackberry and black raspberry fruits were accented by earthy spice and cigar box with tangy acidity. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3274601

http://www.bodegavistalba.com

https://twitter.com/BodegaVistalba

Beau Vigne "Juliet" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Bob found this bottle at the Total Wine beverage superstore at Boca Towne Centre in Boco Raton and picked it up for our gathering. Not only was this undiscovered label the surprise of the evening, for me, it was the WOTN - Wine of the Night

This is from winemaker producer Julien Fayard, one of Napa Valley’s most respected winemakers with more than two decades of winemaking expertise. Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. 

In Bordeaux, he worked at Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite before relocating to Napa Valley where he became Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before launching his own projects.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis.

Julien Fayard is producing California varietals with French finesse - wines that express their terroir, highlighting the specificities and characteristics of the fruit, vineyard management, soil and climate. He has developed a track record of building brands both in terms of quality and market presence.

Fayard's wines represent the power and depth of mountain fruit grown 1,400 ft above Napa Valley from their prized estate vineyard atop Atlas Peak. The rugged vineyard sits above the fog line on the western slopes of the Vaca Mountains and stretches to 2,500 feet in elevation. Influenced by the mountains, temperatures average 10 degrees cooler than in the Stags Leap District below. The volcanic soil characterizes the uniqueness of this crafted wine with impressive texture and density and that is as lush in style.

He produces a portfolio of ultra-premium red blends, with bold and luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, and rounded out with a prestigious group of Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay sourced from the region’s top vineyards.

His small boutique winery 'flies under the radar as a “hidden gem”' producing only a few thousand cases a year. Famed critic Robert Parker refers to Fayard as “one of my favorite wineries.” They operate a tasting room in downtown Yountville .

The 2018 Signature Series Juliet Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Atlas Peak, 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2%  Petit Verdot.

Winemaker Notes: "2018 was a dream growing season and harvest for Napa Valley. An abundance of rain in February was followed by continuous days of sunshine and mild temperatures that made for uniform vines and even cluster growth. Cooler temperatures allowed us to pick when we wanted, without stress and under optimal conditions. The gift from Mother Nature translated to wines that not only have great concentration but also an amazing freshness.'

"ON THE NOSE:  Boysenberries, kirsch, dark chocolates, blueberries, granular rock'

"ON THE PALATE: Savory blackberry fruit, maraschino cherry, fennel, graphite"

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this label 93+/100 Points.
 
This delicious easy sipping round fuit filled wine was a favorite of the ladies, and me too!

Deep garnet-purple colored, full bodied, black berry and black currant frutis with notes of crème de cassis, tapenade, cedar and dark chocolate and hints of cedar with firm but smooth silky tannins on the bright finish. 
 
RM 94 points. 
 

We continued the dinner with three more Napa Cabernets ..

Ghost Block Estate Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Lyle brought this recent release Oakville Cabernet - like the Beau Vigne, another ideal selection for 'instant gratification', early enjoyment in its youth for delectable pleasureable sipping for the ladies, and for the men alike. This was another previously unknown producer/label, yet one with an extensive history and deep roots in Napa Valley, that was an immense hit for the evening, enjoyed by all!

This is produced by the Pelissa family whose legacy is unique to Napa Valley and rare in the modern day California wine industry. It began in 1902 when Joseph Pelissa came to Napa Valley from Liguria, Italy and purchased 35 acres of land with a single gold coin in 1903. His son Andrew later took over, building successful dairy and trucking businesses and eventually acquiring 1000 acres in Oakville and Yountville where he planted wine grapes and other crops. Andrew was civic-minded and an early champion of keeping Napa Valley agricultural, and was instrumental in establishing Napa Valley’s Agricultural Preserve Zone. 

Today, the Pelissa grape-growing operation continues to be family-owned and run, overseen by 4thand 5thgeneration family members who live on and farm the land. Since planting their first grapes, the family has supplied fruit to some of the most prestigious wineries in Napa Valley from its 635 acres in ten different estate vineyards.

Not until 2006, over 100 years after Joseph Pelissa came to Napa Valley, Pelissa family created their own wines from the grapes they grew. Ghost Block Estate Wines was established, comprised of three separate brands that showcase the family vineyards that they farm, based on their deep roots in Napa Valley history.

This was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.

Wine Spectator - Oakville, Napa, California - "Very lush, with warmed plum sauce, cassis and linzer torte flavors gliding through slowly, but persistently...Stays on the dark side of the spectrum, with a flash of espresso crema flickering at the end amid the exotic fruit." 

Garnet colored, full bodied, bright, big, bold, concentrated ripe blackberry and black raspberry bramble fruit with notes of licorice and cedar. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3593250

https://www.ghostblockwine.com/

For the more adventurous, we opened these aged vintage Napa cabernets...

Chanticleer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Lyle also brought this vintage premium Yountville Napa Cab that he received from a business associate several years ago. He has held this bottle in his cellar for a decade and admitted he hated to pull it as the bright colorful label looked good prominently displayed on its cellar display rack. 

Chanticleer, a boutique winery, produces four premium wines incorporating the Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes grown in the 8 1/2 acre vineyard in Yountville in Napa Valley. 

Founder producer George Grodahl spent his career in the computer industry in sales, as an entrepreneur and as an investment banker until 1991 when he took early retirement.

In 1994 he and his wife Caddy purchased 40 acres in the hills of Yountville, in the heart of Napa Valley. The hillside location with well-drained, rocky soils, was ideally suited to grow grapes for great wines. Initially they sold all of their grapes to local wineries for use in their winemaking. 

George began to make wine as a hobby, making a small amount that grew to fifty cases, not for resale, but produced for friends and family only.

Every year the wine got better and in 1998 he teamed up with promising young winemaker, Chris Dearden, to produce Chanticleer wine. Caddy and George formed a partnership in 2000 with winemaker Chris Dearden, owner of Dearden Wines. 

Chris studied Enology at UC Davis and wrote his own major in Winery Operations and Management. He worked at Schramsberg and got his first winemaking job at William Hill Winery. He became the winemaker at a small Carneros winery, Mont St. John, then became a winemaker for Heublein's Fine Wine Group, which included Christian Brothers, Beaulieu and Inglenook. In 1996 he became General Manager and Winemaker at Benessere Winery where he worked for fourteen years. 

The first Chanticleer vintage was released in May, 2003, a Super Tuscan style (blend of Cabernet and some Sangiovese) 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon. A total of 122 cases were released, a blend of 82% Cabernet and 18% Sangiovese. The wine received high praise from its consumers, most was sold direct with some sold to a few restaurants and retailers; it sold out in two months.

The second Chanticleer vintage of 250 cases of the 2001 Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon, was released in August, 2004 and was sold out by mid September. This release blended 17% Sangiovese with 83% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was very well received by its clients, mainly repeat buyers with a few new commercial establishments.

Each successive vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Super Tuscan sold out well before the next release became available. Today, they produce about 500 cases per year, 200 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, 100 of Sangiovese and 200 Cases of their premium flagship blend, Riserva - all allocated to existing clients due to demand. 

In 2020 George sold Chanticleer to Deepak Gulrajani, the winemaker and owner of Nicholson Ranch winery, known for producing excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chanticleer varietals of Cabernet and Sangiovese were a chance to expand the portfolio. 

The name Chantecleer was taken from England's The Pilgrims Way, made famous in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. The stories emanated near their property where George and Caddy Grodahl lived in southern England in Westerham, Kent in the early 1970’s. 

They named their winery in Napa Chanticleer based on the Canterbury tale of Reynard the Fox. Chantecler, which means rooster, is a compound word from chanter (to sing) and cler (clear), and thus literally means clear singer, was a character in the Chaucer Canterbury Tale, Nun's Priest's Tale.

Current owner and winemaker Deepak Gulrajani was born in Mumbai, India, and came to California for a job in the computer business in 1988. He began his winemaking career in his garage making home-made wines in the early 1990s. He planted Nicholson Ranch vineyards in 1995 and has been winemaker for Nicholson Ranch since 2009.  

Chanticleer produce 3 Estate wines in the Super Tuscan style;  Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon, Chanticleer Riserva and Chanticleer Sangiovese. Chanticleer Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily a Cabernet with typically greater than 90% Cabernet Grapes and only a small quantity of Sangiovese blended in. The Sangiovese softens the wine and adds fruit to the blend.  With typically less than 10%  Sangiovese in the blend this little bit gives lift, complexity, and a sense of finesse to this  powerful wine.

Garnet colored, medium - full bodied, bright full round black fruits with notes of tobacco, earth and smoke with a soft moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1599365

https://www.chanticleerwine.com/ 

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Bill opened this magnum from his cellar.  This legendary wine from legendary Napa winemaker Randy Dunn, is known to be long lived. At eighteen years, it was probably at its peak, yet with a decade or more left in its prime tasting window, especially in the large format bottle. 

Dunn Vineyards' 64 acres of land, are planted to 42 acres of vineyards in rural upper Howell Mountain. Dunn’s flagship Howell Mountain label is a classic reflection of its terroir - red-stony soil, mixed with volcanic ash, high above the famous Napa Valley fog at 1,400 feet elevation, the vineyards see sunshine each day and the heat tends to be more moderate. 

Dunn’s flagship is produced from 100% mountain grown Cabernet Sauvignon, and is a true expression of the Howell Mountain appellation, tannic, bold, huge, dense and massively structured that demands aging.

This was ideally suited for pairing with the beef tenderloin main entree course. 

Dunn is one of the most extensive holdings in our cellar, spanning three decades. We visited Randy Dunn at his hilltop estate on Howell Mountain back in 2008

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points Vinousand 90 points by Connoisseurs Guide.

Classic Dunn Howell Mountain profile, dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated, structured powerful black berry and black raspberry fruits with clove spice, cassis, bitter chocolate and oak, hints of leather and pipe tobacco with fine-grained lingering tannins on the long finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224195

https://www.dunnvineyards.com/


Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000

Lyle has customarily brought a Vintage Port to our wine dinners and for this year, he brought a 2000 vintage release from Smith Woodhouse.

The 2000 vintage release for ports was one of the smallest vintages for many years. The more limited production showed great power, immense color and strong tannins. 

This wine displayed complex layers of ripe fruit that was probably at its peek at two decades, yet will likely age gracefully for another decade. 

This was rated 93 (2021) points and 95 (2003) points by Wine Spectator.

This is great with the steak entree but best suited and ideal with the chocolate cake dessert. 

Last year, in 2021, Wine Spectator wrote, "This one is ready to go, with soft-edged plum sauce, blackberry compote and fig paste flavors that drape easily against a backdrop of cinnamon raisin toast and melted licorice notes. A flattering Port that's at peak now. (JM, Web-2021)". 

In 2003, Wine Spectator wrote, "This is the Greatest young Vintage Port of Smith Woodhouse I have ever tasted."

Garnet colored, full bodied, sweet bright blackberry fruits with a layer of cinnamon, licorice and hints of creosote, with smooth, fine tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=112108

Kracher Burgenland #9 Nouvelle Vague Trockenberenauslese Chardonnay 2002

As Lyle brings Vintage Ports, I tend to bring sweet 'sticky' dessert wines to our dinners. 

I hold more than a dozen labels and vintages spanning more than two decades of Kracher premium dessert wines. I enjoy serving them for special occasion dinners with fellow eoephiles that appreciate the label. For this weekend, I brought a twenty year old Austrian Kracher TBA - Trochenbereenauslese. 

Trockenbeerenauslese is the highest in sugar content in the category of Austrian and German wine classifications. Trockenbeerenauslese wines, called "TBA" for short, are made from individually selected grapes affected by noble rot (i.e., botrytized grapes).

This means that the grapes have been left on the vine to ripen to the point that they gain a high sugar content, individually picked and are shrivelled with noble rot, often to the point of appearing like a raisin. They are therefore very sweet and have an intensely rich flavor, frequently with a lot of caramel and honey bouquet, stone fruit notes such as apricot, and distinctive aroma of the noble rot.

 Trockenbeerenauslese means literally "dry berry selection." This very sweet dessert wine is made from individually selected shriveled grapes that have the highest sugar levels with flavors concentrated further by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. Trockenbeerenauslesen rank among the greatest sweet wines in the world.

These long lived wines can last multiple decades or more. At twenty years, this was likely at its peak, not likely to improve further with any more aging. Its fun to watch these wines darken as they age. Upon release, they are light straw colored. As they age they darken to butter colored, light weak tea colored, and eventually, like tonight, maple syrup colored, and finally blackish almost coffee colored. 

These are sipping wines, not drinking wines, delightful for casual sipping with salad, cheeses or desserts. 

Tonight, this was similar to the last tasting note that I posted for this label back in 2013 when I wrote: "Like other Krachers, this one exhibits honey color and is full bodied, thick and chewy - compared to other Krachers, this one has an essence of honey moreso than fruit flavors, still flavorful with a hint of apricot and hasn't given way to more neutral smoke and nut flavors that sometimes set in as the fruit diminishes ..."

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=50502

Preparing for the flight ... research and planning the attack ... 


 After dinner ... Beth, the career vocalist and music teacher set out playing the piano and a serious sing-along broke out .. a new OTBN tradition in the making? 



As is customary ... here 's a compendium of our previous Pour Boy's OTBN galas. 

Pour Boys' OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night