Friday, February 18, 2022

Gala Family Celebration Dinner at Angelis Italian

 Gala Family Celebration Dinner at Angelis Italian - Naperville

The family successfully pulled off a surprise birthday party for wife/mom/grandmother Linda for her deca-milestone year. We gathered in the private dining room at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria (Naperville, IL). We ordered a broad array of appetizers, our favorite dinner entrees from the menu and daily specials, followed by celebratory birthday cake, accompanied by our special BYOB wines. 


All our kids and their kids were able to attend, including a surprise pop-in visit from Alec and Vivianna, only hours after release from the hospital, with less than 48 hour old, just arrived, daughter, grand-daughter, Marylin - named after her grandmothers Mary-Lisa and Linda. This was everyone's first encounter meeting her and the first time hearing her name as this was announced as part of her introduction at the gathering. All this further amplified the excitement and special circumstances of the occasion.

To accompany the dinner I brought BYOB, from our wine cellar a magnum of champagne and two reds - Del Dotto Napa Cabernet and a Venge Vineyards Sangiovese. 

Piper Heidseick Brut Champagne (Magnum) 

There's nothing like Champagne served from a large format magnum bottle - especially for special occasions. This bottle is even more festive with its red holiday packaging.  We acquired several cases of these commemorative bottles upon release last year and have had fun serving them at weddings, holidays and special family occasions such as tonight. 

 

Venge Vineyards Sangiovese Family Reserve Penny Lane Vineyard 2010

I pulled this bottle for its traditional Italian Sangiovese varietal composition to accompany our Italian cuisine dinner.  This is from Venge Vineyards, one of the earliest growers and producers of this varietal based wine from Napa Valley sources. Nils Venge has long been a pioneer and thought-leader in Napa Valley.

The Venge (ven-ghee) family has farmed vitis vinifera varieties in Napa Valley for nearly half a century dating back to Knud Venge who emigrated from Denmark to the US in the early 1900’s. Knud's son, Per Venge, was passionate about wine and spirits and imported Western European fine wines and spirits. Per's son, Nils Venge started in the family business in the 1960's before leaving to study viticulture at UC Davis and then went on become an icon in the Northern California winegrowing community.

Venge family viticultural took root in Napa Valley in 1976 with the purchase of a 17-acre vineyard in the Oakville District that was planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. 
 
We've met Nils and Dianna Venge on numerous occasions at Napa events and visiting the Venge Vineyards in Oakville during the nineties. We first met their son, Kirk Venge, who engaged in winemaking from an early age while they were developing the Rossini Ranch Vineyards, Winery and caves up in Calistoga.  
 

Nils' and Dianna Venge's son, Kirk Venge, engaged in winemaking at an early age and has emerged as a talented winemaker like his father.

I've written often in these pages how we have fun with this label with the prominent "V" in the branding, for special dinners with daughter-in-law Vivianna, such as tonight. 

This is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Charbono from the Venge estate Penny Lane vineyard in Oakville. 
 
Dark inky colored, full bodied, rich concentrated extracted fruit, aromatic,almost intense black cherry and black raspberry with notes of tobacco leaf, tea and hints of tar on a smooth silky tannin laced finish. This was and ideal accompaniment to our zesty Italian pasta!

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/venge-napa-valley-oakville-penny-lane.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1351252 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1351287

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/VengeVineyards

@VengeVineyards 

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Magnum)

We've been collecting Del Dotto Family Wine for over twenty-five years, since their inaugural release of this Napa Cabernet in 1993. The Del Dotto brand, holdings, portfolio and presence have grown substantially over those years, yet they still maintain their focus on small production, premium wines. 

Over that time Dave Del Dotto has acquired vineyards in some of the best American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) including Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena, Howell Mountain, and Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast. The portfolio and brand has grown proportionally as well. 

Today Del Dotto produce wines based on cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, sangiovese and sauvignon blanc from their Napa Valley vineyards, as well as pinot noir, chardonnay and limited amounts of syrah, sauvignon blanc, sparkling grenache and mourvedre from their Cinghiale (wild boar) Vineyard in the King Ridge region of the Sonoma Coast.

We still hold nearly two decades of Del Dotto wines dating back to that 1993 inaugural vintage release. 

Over the years we've held Del Dotto wine dinners with Dave and Yolanda such as our Napa Wine Experience back in 1999, and attended numerous Del Dotto hosted special events. More recently, our Pour Boys wine group did the Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Tour and Barrel Tasting at the magnificent St Helena estate winery and caves. And, our Del Dotto Piazza DELICACIES Food and Wine Experience at the then new Piazza Del Dotto estate and winery (and now caves) was one of the memorable highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. 

Our collection of Del Dotto family wines remains one of the largest holdings in our cellar with both vertical and horizontal collections of favorite labels. Hence it was only fitting for a special occasion family dinner that I took a Del Dotto estate label, in magnum - especially since it was held at our local Italian trattoria. 

Our   -https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/08/del-dotto-napa-valley-cave-tour-barrel_12.html

Its hard to believe that with published tasting notes of no less than sixty-five different labels and vintage releases - and countless iterations thereof, I have not tasted, or published a tasting note or blogpost of this particular label vintage release. 

At twenty years, the fill level, label, foil and cork were all essentially perfect - indications of the aging environment in our cellar as we acquired this bottle upon release. This is probably at the peak of its drinking character and profile and not likely to improve with any further aging, but showed no sign of diminution whatsoever.

This vintage release was awarded 92-94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant ripe concentrated blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of earthy leather, tobacco, hints of spice and cassis with moderate tangy acidity and tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1158239

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=84270

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/DelDottoWine

@DelDottoWine

Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Brut Limited Edition Red Magnum Bottles NV

The Winemaker Notes for this release: "The Brut NV represents the epitome of the Piper-Heidsieck
style: a classic, well-structured, and fruit forward champagne.

Piper-Heidsieck carefully selects fruit from more than 100 of Champagne’s crus to blend the Brut NV. This adds great complexity and dimension to the wine and allows the bold Piper-Heidsieck style to shine through.

A majority blend of Pinot Noir provides structure to the composition while Pinot Meunier expands the wine with its brilliant fruit expression and fleshiness and Chardonnay bring elegant tones and acidity. The precious reserve wines create a consistent flavor profile year after year.'


"This Champagne teases and allures us with its festive, light-drenched, pale gold shimmer and joyful display of neat, lively bubbles. Notes of almond and fresh hazelnut accompany the precise ascent of its bubbles. It is lively, subtle and light, leaving a deliciously incisive sensation of smoothness, marked by the pureness of fresh pear and apple and a delicate hint of citrus fruits. A harmonious mixture of bright, crunchy pomelo, blonde grapes and juicy white fruits creates the delightfully surprising sensation of lightness embraced by the structure and depth from the Pinot Noir; all beautifully balanced."

This release achieved Critical Acclaim having been awarded WS 92 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 90 points each by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.

White-golden straw colored, balanced, fruity, fresh and elegant, medium-bodied, stimulatingly fresh and well-structured blend with gorgeous fruit and a clean, persistent finish, a mineral edge and final fruitiness, beautifully textured with a solid mid-palate, good density, and a clean, crisp finish.

RM 90 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2651727

Saturday, February 12, 2022

Family Surf and Turf Dinner Features Diverse Wine Flight

Family Surf and Turf Dinner Features Diverse Wine Flight

Daughter-in-law Vivianna is due to deliver first baby any day now so with family in town for the big event, we hosted the in-laws for a gala dinner. 

Linda prepared flank steak with mushroom sauce of butter, garlic, shallots and olive oil, and pan seared halibut in a garlic butter lemon sauce.


Prior to dinner we had a selection of artisan cheeses, olives and mixed nuts.

 

 

 

 

 

She also prepared twice baked potatoes and sweet potatoes and a colorful pan of roasted potatoes and vegetables. 


I pulled from the cellar a medley of wines for the dinner and to celebrate the upcoming Valentines Day holiday. 


For the wine flight, with the Halibut, I served Rochioli Russian River Valley Chardonnay. With the steak, and noting this crowd favors reds over whites, I served several disparate reds. In commemoration of Valentines Day, we opened the current release of Arrowood Sonoma Cabernet, this following the aged vintage bottle we enjoyed the other evening. 

For another Valentine's selection we served Fantesca, a fun play on the branding of this premium Napa Cabernet - named for a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Fantesca, Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious, both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience.

Lastly, I served a Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Vieux Telegraphe, which we visited together during our Rhone Valley Wine Experience in 2018.

Rochioli "Estate" Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2016  

I served and wrote about this wine during our Covid forced Virtual OTBN for 2021.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/03/covid-forces-virtual-otbn-for-2021.html

Rochioli Vineyards & Winery sits just ten minutes south of Healdsburg, further inland up the Russian River Valley, where they produce estate sourced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
 
The Rochioli family legacy began in 1911 when current proprietor and winemaker Joe Rochioli's grandfather, Joe Rocchioli Sr. immigrated to America along with his parents, Michele and Menichina Rocchioli (they later dropped the second "c").  Originally from a small village just outside of Lucca, the Rocchioli’s were one of many Italian families that arrived in New York, made their way across the country, and settled in Northern California.

In those days children worked from a young age, and so Tom's grandfather, Joe, still only 10-years old, labored alongside his father on a farm called Wohler Ranch, in the Russian River Valley.

 In 1934 Tom's grandmother Neoma gave birth to a son, Joe Rochioli Jr.  Shortly after, they moved to a 125-acre property nearby called Fenton Acres, the site and same location where Rochioli Vineyards is today.  

In 1959, Tom's father, Joe Jr, and grandfather, Joe Sr, planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc grape vines.  The Cabernet did not grow well and was pulled out in the 1970's.  Sauvignon Blanc, at the time, was a strange new white grape that nobody wanted and was used mainly for blends.  It was soon discovered by a few famed wineries and became desirable as a high quality grape. Today, these same vines are still in production and are considered some of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in California.

The Rochioli's passion for fine wine and high quality grape growing began in 1968 when Joe Jr. began planting Pinot Noir. He had his own ideas as to what would grow best here and planted fine Pinot Noir clones from France. This was revolutionary as there was very little known about the grape in the US and he was considered a pioneer at the time for doing this. Rochioli had the foresight to know that the soil and microclimates of this unique spot in the Russian River Valley were very special and would one day produce some of the world's greatest wines. Shortly after growing Pinot Noir successfully, he  planted Chardonnay.

I have written often in these pages about another American Pinot Noir pioneer, Josh Jenson of Calera Winery,  and the chronicles of his endeavors to plant Pinot Noir that was featured in a book on the subject, the Heartbreak Grape

By the early 1970's, Rochioli were selling Pinot Noir grapes to Davis Bynum Winery and shortly thereafter they started producing wine under their own Fenton Acres label. In the early 1980’s they began selling to Williams Selyem Winery, and others.  

Tom Rochioli went to college and worked at a major financial institution for a year, then returned to the family farm with a new idea. Based on the quality of the grapes they were selling, they knew their grapes were very good and were making great wines, so they set upon producing their own wines under the Rochioli name.  In 1983, they changed the name of the property from Fenton Acres to Rochioli Vineyards.  At that time Tom took over the family business operations and soon after became the winemaker.

In 1987,  they release their first estate wine with the 1985 Rochioli Pinot Noir.  It topped Wine Spectator’s list of Pinot Noir and was named ‘The Best Pinot Noir in America’.  The Rochioli brand struck gold and was validated as a premier label. With three generations of dedication to the land, Rochioli Vineyards and Winery earned the reputation as one of Sonoma County's finest wineries.

This 2016 Rochioli Estate Chardonnay was awarded 94 points and 'Editors Choice' by Wine Enthusiast , 92 points by Vinous, 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Straw colored, medium bodied, notes of stone fruit and lemon curd citrus, hints of peach, honeydew melon and finishes with a sense of bright pineapple and a hint of what I might call cotton candy.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2817007 


https://twitter.com/rochioliwinery
 
@rochioliwinery

 
Arrowood Sonoma County Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 

Following our tasting of the 2004 vintage release of this label the other night, I picked up the current release to replace it, hoping it was as good. Its tough to compare vintages fourteen years apart but the pedigree and legacy promises for pleasant drinking ahead. I wrote about the history of this label in that blogpost.

This is from the Knights Valley, tucked into the foothills of Mount Saint Helena (not to be confused with St Helena in Napa Valley), on the remote eastern edge of Sonoma County, where the terroir experiences a moderated climate, protected from ocean influences, offering a longer and later growing season that develops dark fruit aromatics.  

The Arrowood vineyard there lies thirty miles north of the winery and tasting room in Glen Ellyn, Sonoma Valley.

Knights Valley AVA is one of Sonoma County's original five AVAs, Knights Valley AVA was formally designated back in 1983. Knights Valley AVA includes approximately 37,000 acres of which about 2000 are planted to vineyards. The Knights Valley AVA abuts the Alexander Valley AVA to the west, Chalk Hill to the south, and cozies up to Calistoga (in Napa Valley) on the east.

Knights Valley is pretty remote, tucked between the mountain ranges with the only practical access via twisty sections of Highway 128 through mountainous terrain before it eventually straightens out in a high valley.

This is one of ten different Arrowood Cabernet labels, an estate bottling, with a single AVA versus single vineyard designation as with several of the more premium and ultrapremium offerings.

Winemaker Notes for this label release: "The 2018 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is bold with black forest fruit and anise, nuanced with violet, pine resin, sage, and nutmeg. Densely concentrated and intensely flavorful on the palate with dark fruits, graphite and cocoa nibs."

Wine pundit Jeb Dunnuck gave this 91 points and wrote: "The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley is terrific and just classic Sonoma Cabernet. Lots of cassis, blackcurrants, lead pencil shavings and rocky, savory earth-like nuances all emerge from this spicy, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced Cabernet. It shows the fresh, focused style of the vintage, has wonderful purity, and enough tannins to warrant 2-3 years of bottle age."

While I concur with the above notes on some of the flavors, I would add that there was a predominant layer of sweetness, almost akin to caramel, which is not represented in those notes. I found it less structured and more moderate than the 2004 vintage, and the Fantesca Napa Spring Mountain Cab as well. 

RM 89 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/02/arrowood-sonoma-county-cabernet.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4094954

https://www.arrowoodvineyards.com/

@ArrowoodWinery 

Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

As mentioned above, I selected this for a Valentines Day wine for its whimsical name from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte,  who could always be counted on to charm the audience. Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'
 
 
We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate. 
 
Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.

Fantesca Napa Valley,
Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon
Etched glass, painted bottle.
(2006 shown)
I bought a case of this label back upon release and note it is the best drinking bottle to date. Perhaps this is now reaching its stride and apex of its drinking character and profile at a dozen years of age.
 
Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

As always, this was the blockbuster hit of the evening, a great complement to grilled beef steak.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355836

http://www.fantesca.com
 


Domaine Vieux Telegraphe "Télégramme" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016

As noted above, I selected this wine in remembrance of our visit with Alec and Viv to Domaine Vieux Telegraphe, one of the highlights of our Rhone Valley wine experience back in 2018. This provided a background for fun reminiscences about our trip and visit and our friends there.

Earlier in the day, I had already picked up the latest vintage release of this label, so I already had a replacement for drinking this vintage release bottle tonight. 

Télégramme is the Brunier brothers’ “second” label, based on the fruit of the estate’s younger vines. “Young” is a relative term as the vines that contribute to this blend average 35 years in age and come from some of the appellation’s most esteemed parcels, such as La Crau and Pignan. Available at about half the price of the estate’s flagship La Crau label, this offers great QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

While the second label of the estate, like the "La Crau" grand vin label, it is a blend of the thirteen different varietals sanctioned by the Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) appellation controllee rules that require predominance of the GSM - Grenache, Syrah and/or Mourvedre grapes. This is a blend of estate grown 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, and 4% Cinsault.

This release was awarded 96 points byJames Suckling, 92 by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine & Spirits, and 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, complex but balanced, the Grenache flavor profile prediminates with black raspberry, red-berry and plum flavors, with herbs, crushed rocks and pepper notes accented by spices with firm but smooth, ripe tannins on the finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2857462

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en

Friday, February 11, 2022

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Linda prepared hearty Chicken Cacciatore in a zesty sauce of tomatos, mushrooms, onions, herbs of provence and sherry. Cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and it is hunters who first ate this dish. It is thought that the first Chicken Cacciatore was not made with chicken, but with rabbit or other wild game, sometime during the Renaissance period, between the 14th and 16th centuries. Chicken Cacciatore’s simple but delicious recipe was likely developed to satisfy the appetites of hunters who may have been on the track of a larger animal or herd of animals for several days, and who needed a tasty, filling stew that could easily be cooked outdoors to keep them going.

This warranted a nice hearty red wine  - not too big or complex, but not too small/light, not too fruity, but firm enough to stand up to the sauce. I selected from the cellar this Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon and it proved to be an ideal pairing for maximum enjoyment of both the food and the wine. 

Before I write any more about this wine or this food pairing, I found this ..... Amazingly, the last time we tasted and I blogged about this wine was exactly a year ago tonight! Wine karma? In any event, history repeats itself, and tonight's tasting was a recreation of that earlier evening and the experience was consistent with that last year in every respect when I published the following post.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/02/arrowood-sonoma-county-cabernet.html

Thursday, February 11, 2021 

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

The deep freeze in Chicago continues and we remain shut in for winter and of course Covid. Having a deep and broad wine cellar reduces the dread of cabin fever and makes for enjoyable evenings dipping in to our collection. 

Tonight, Linda created a delicious medley of grilled steak, sweet potatoes and mushrooms. This was a wonderful pairing that suited this Sonoma County Cabernet perfectly. As I've written several times recently, an ideal food and wine pairing such as this accentuates the enjoyment of the whole experience, enhancing the wine and the food. 

We've visited or stopped by the Arrowood winery a couple times during visits to Sonoma, the winery sitting just north of town back off the highway. We hold a collection of this label dating back to 1991 of which we acquired a case upon release and still hold just a couple remaining bottles, along with a half dozen other vintages including this '04. 

My opinion and experience is that the Sonoma County Cabs tend to be lighter and softer (than Napa's) and therefore a bit more approachable and less challenging, more suitable to casual sipping and lighter or less complex food pairing. 

This is the craftwork of winemaker producer Richard Arrowood. Born in San Francisco and raised in Santa Rosa, he started his winemaking career in 1965 at Korbel Champagne Cellars just north of St Helena. He earned degrees in organic chemistry at California State Sacramento and graduate work in enology at California State, Fresno. He moved from Korbel to United Vintners, then Sonoma Vineyards. 

From 1974 through 1990, he was winemaker at Chateau St. Jean, where he developed some of the first vineyard-designate Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Sonoma County. His role there grew to be winemaker and Executive Vice President of Chateau St Jean.

He and his wife, Alis, founded Arrowood Winery with the 1985 vintage where they produced small-lot varietals and vineyard designates. In April 1990, after sixteen years at Chateau St. Jean, Richard set out to devote himself full-time to Arrowood where he was producer/winemaster. He originally planned to produce reserve quality Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon only, but his passion for making wine lead him to explore and develop unusual varietals that he believed had potential to produce exceptional fruit. The Arrowood portfolio expanded to include Merlot, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Late Harvest wines, Malbec, Syrah and a few special reserve wines.

Richard and Alis were successful building the Arrowood brand and portfolio which they sold to Robert Mondavi in 2000. Richard and Alis stayed on, but left after Constellation Brands purchased Mondavi in 2004 and subsequently sold Arrowood in 2005 to the (now bankrupt) Legacy Estate Group. 

Jackson Family Wines acquired Arrowood Vineyards & Winery through the bankruptcy court in September 2006. I wrote recently about the Jackson Family history upon reading the book, A Man and His Mountain, a chronicle about Jess Jackson. 

Richard continued as winemaster there until June 2010, when he founded and left to devote his energies full-time to Amapola Creek Vineyards and Winery. They sold Amapola in 2019 and set out to retire after 54 years in the wine business.  

Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This release is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (89.9%), Merlot (7.2%), Malbec and (1.6%), Petit Verdot (1.3%), all from Sonoma County.

Winemaker notes: "This 2004 Arrowood Caberent Sauvignon is a lovely, complex wine that exemplifies our distinctive style. Beginning with exceptional fruit from several Sonoma County vineyards, we selected and blended small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Each key component was aged for nearly two years in French and American oak. To retain maximum complexity, we chose not to fine or filter this wine, hence a small amount of harmless sedimentation may occur. Although delicious now, this rich and complex claret will develop well beyond the next decade.' 

"Our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is a complete wine. It is a testament to both vintage and the vineyards. The growing season opened with a heat wave in the first half of March triggering an early bloom. The remainder of the year was awash in warm days, cool nights and morning fog. All in all, we feel it was one of the finest Cabernet vintages of the last decade.'

"For vineyards, this Cabernet combines our favorite bench, hillside and mountain sites (many organically farmed) in Sonoma, Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys. By blending lots from a variety of sources Richard was able to capture the character of the vintage and the essence of Sonoma County Cabernet."

Back in 2016 I wrote about this release, "I have two left in the cellar and I wish I had more. At a dozen years old, it must be at the apex of its drinking window - it was delicious and a perfect compliment to the steak and to the anti pasta caprese salad.'

"We often turn to Sonoma County Cab's for more casual sipping as they are thought to be a bit lighter and softer than their Napa counterparts. There was nothing wimpy or second class to this Big Cab."

While the Arrowood winery and vineyards are located in Sonoma Valley just north of the town of Sonoma, they source the fruit for this label from three different Sonoma County AVA's - Knights Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. We consider Arrowood to be a benchmark, representing the best of Sonoma Cabernet.

We have visited the Arrowood properties on several of our trips to Sonoma Valley. 

This wine represents great value, high QPR as Arrowood seem to have held the price on this label as similar Napa and Sonoma labels have risen by 30-40% over the decade.

At sixteen years, this was drinking very nicely, probably still at its apex, not likely to improve any further with aging, but not showing any signs of diminution whatsoever. The filled level was proper and the cork was in perfect condition.

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 93 points. 

Blend: 89.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.2% Merlot, 1.6% Malbec, 1.3% Petit Verdot
 
Back in 2016 I wrote, Dark blackish garnet color, medium-full bodied, the berry fruit aromas filled the room on opening, bold expressive black cherry accented by a layer of leather, mocha and hint of cedar and spice on the long smooth soft tanning finish.

Tonight this was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex yet nicely integrated and balanced rich elegant dark berry fruits with floral notes turning to cassis, hints of black tea and oak with smooth soft tannins and balanced acid on a lingering finish. 
 
RM 91 points. 
 
 
https://www.amapolacreek.com/

Tuesday, February 8, 2022

Montemercurio 'Messaggero' at Palinuro Italian Katy

Montemercurio 'Messaggero' at Palinuro Italian Restaurant Katy

For a team workshop with our tech team in Houston, we held a dinner at Palinuro Italian restaurant in Katy (TX). Since their opening in 2019, owner/manager Gabriele and staff have developed a reputation for innovative Italian cuisine in the style of his southern Italian seaside hometown Palinuro, after which the restaurant is named. 

Gabriele applies skills honed over 15 years in the restaurant industry mastering old world techniques of handmade pasta, finest ingredients and imaginative preparations and presentations, in a trendy comfortable hospitable setting.

Executive Chef Paolo also has Italian roots, on the Italian island of Sardinia, and has been developing his culinary skills for over 40 years in Italy and in restaurants in Santa Monica, West Hollywood, and Beverly Hills.

I studied the menu earlier in the day and pre-selected my dinner entree choices, but when our host and server, Jorge, presented the daily specials, I opted for the Vitello Marsalla, grilled veal chop marinaded with fresh herbs and garlic served in a marsala sauce with mashed potatoes and spinach. 

Others in our group selected the Sea Bass, but when we exceeded the number of available plates, several deferred to an alternate, the special substitution Salmon offering. 

Jorge also promoted the pasta special featuring Fettucini served in a highly recommended house specialty Truffle Parmesan Reggiano sauce with fresh shaved truffle. This was presented in and served from a large cheese wheel at tableside (shown right). 

I requested a side dish of this special selection and it was fantastic, an incredibly delicious preparation of truffle, cheese and pasta, a new reference benchmark for Fetuccini Alfredo.   

Everything was exceptional from the soup and salads to the entrees and the dessert course. All were served with stylish presentations and attentive professional service. The dinner was spectacular in all respects and definitely worth checking out, and we'll look forward to returning if the occasion rises.

From the winelist I selected an Le Volte dell’Ornellaia, the baby brother of a fabulous wine we had at a dinner recently at Italian Village, Chicago. This wine was not available and Jorge suggested and offered this Super Tuscan instead.

Palinuro don't show their winelist on their website. When presented, I was surprised and impressed by the Palinuro winelist, while somewhat small or limited, it offered a creative and thoughtful selection - all Italian, especially the aged bottles such as this one (even though the vintages were not shown), and the super premium labels such as the grand vin flagship Ornellaia.

Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2011

From the Palinuro winelist we were served this big red that proved to be a wonderful choice and an ideal pairing with our Italian fare, and a high QPR - quality price ratio, value selection.

Montemercurio is a small estate located just outside the town of Montepulciano, a medieval Renaissance hill town in the Italian province of Siena in southern Tuscany. It is located about 75 miles southeast of Florence, 115 miles north of Rome.

Montepulciano is also the center of the so-named wine-producing region, known for producing Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the DOCG designated (Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita) name for the Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico labels, the principal red wines of Tuscany.

Montepulciano wines are made primarily from the Sangiovese grape varietal (known locally as Prugnolo gentile), from a minimum of 70 to 100%, sometimes blended with Canaiolo Nero and small amounts of other local varieties such as Mammolo. The DOCG wines are aged for 2 years, at least 1 year in oak barrels, and for three years if it is a "riserva". (The wine should not be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, a red wine made from the Montepulciano grape in the Abruzzo region of east-central Italy.)

Azienda Agricola Montemercurio is owned by the Anselmi/Luciani family, run by Marco Anselmi. The estate was developed by Marco's grandfather, Damo, who planted many of the vines over 60 years ago. The estate terroir consists of clay and limestone soils sitting at an altitude of 450 meters. 

The Messaggero labeled wine is aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for 3 years, followed by a minimum of 18 months bottle. Marco refuses to release his wines until he feels they are ready to drink, consequently his current release may be five years behind what other producers in the region are selling.

Montemercurio Messaggero is 100% Sangiovese, crafted from the careful selection of the best Sangiovese grapes that have been cultivated in the optimum zones of the DOC region from those vineyards that produce grapes of the highest quality.

Dark garnet color with brick highlights, medium bodied, complex and powerful yet approachable with concentrated black cherry fruits with notes of leather and tobacco with hints of mint, tea and mineral with firm round tannins on the finish. 

RM 91 points. 

This was an ideal accompaniment to the zesty and flavorful Italian dishes - an excellent recommendation - and at ten years of age - nicely integrated and mature, likely at the apex of its drinking window. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=3049585

 

https://www.montemercurio.com/en/press/85-vinous-antonio-galloni-2.html 

Sunday, February 6, 2022

Napa and Columbia Valley Big Red Wine Flight

Family dinner features Napa and Columbia Valley Big Red Wine Flight

We were invited over to Ryan and Michelle's new home for a Saturday night pot luck dinner with Erin and Johnny and the grandkids. 

Erin brought pasta and Italian Beef and cupcakes and Linda took chocolate cake for a belated birthday tribute to Erin. 

Ryan had open a Mondavi Reserve Napa Valley Tokalon Cabernet and a Columbia Valley Cab so I took from our cellar a Napa and Columbia Valley Cab to compare. 

Robert Mondavi ToKalon Vineyard Oakville Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

With a release price of $175 and monster reviews of 96, 96, 96, 94 points, and a Cellar Selection designation, one would expect this to be an impressive bottle worthy of special occasions. Hence, our dismay and disappointment over its tasting profile tonight. Perhaps and hopefully this off-putting was bottle variation and the rest of the partial case Ryan acquired will be in-line with the pundits. 

The winemaker's notes for this bottle - ".... offers flavors of rich black berries and black plum, dried herb complexity, sweet oak spices, vanilla bean, and toasted almonds unfold in mesmerizing layers.

JebDunnuck.com gave it 96+ points and said, "The flagship 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a more long-term effort yet is loaded with potential. ....  hide bottle for 4-5 years and this beauty will cruise for 3 decades or so."
 
Wine Advocate also gave it 94 points Vinous, Wine Enthuiast, 93, Cellar Selection. 
 
They speak to black berries and plum, dried herbs, spices, vanilla, almond .... None of their accolades mention the over-riding notes of vegetable green pepper that permeates this bottle. Hopefully it will burn off or be lost in integration with time. 
 
RM 88 points.  
 

 
 

McGah Family Winery "Scarlet" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

I took this Napa Valley red from our cellar. I wrote about this producer in a blogspot about their 2013 vintage release of this label.

This is crafted by winemaker Mike Smith who uses fruit for his other winery projects, sourced by Russell Bevan, for this single vineyard red, from the McGah estate vineyard on the eastern side of Rutherford. The McGah family are most notably known for co-founding the Bay area Oakland Raiders.  Sherratt Reicher, grandson of E.J. McGah, former Boston Red Sox player and second generation Oakland Raiders owner who maintained ownership interests in the Oakland Raiders football team until 2005, oversees their wine interests.  

McGah family own and operate 64 acres of vineyards in the storied Rutherford appellation on the east side of the central valley near Silverado Trail. They sell fruit to other producers and also offer Scarlett Wines under their own, recently rebranded label, named after the producer/founder's daughter. 

This is similar to the 2013 vintage release we tasted and reported in earlier blogposts

Awarded 92-94 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 91 points from Jeb Dunnuck. 

The Cellartracker community Average Value for this wine is listed at $122.  I consider this a key source of valuing a wine as I see the Cellartracker community as savvy and astute wine consumers and buyers. This is typically a reliable benchmark price for a wine that I will reference when considering a wine purchase. This renders our Vin Chicago purchase price at under $70 a real bargain.   

Parker's Wine Advocate wrote, "As for the 2015s, as you might expect from this high-quality vintage in Northern California, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon McGah Family Vineyard is a fruit bomb, and called it "in-your-face and rather flamboyant, dramatic style, are all part of its appeal and personality."Jeb Dunnuck called it 'fruitcake'.

Amazing notes of sweet caramel candy predominate, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, the bright full forward concentrated blackcurrant and blackberry fruits are accented by a layer of delectable sweet vanilla, almond and sweet clove and oak notes turning to ripe tannins on the long finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2750354

Mark Ryan "Long Haul" Columbia Valley Red Wine 2015

This is produced by Mark Ryan McNeilly who founded Mark Ryan Winery in 1999 with the simple and lofty goal of making the best wine in Washington State. Mostly self-taught, Mark honed the craft of winemaking through rigorous study and the welcomed advice of some of the area's most experienced producers.

He studied wine for years before producing his first vintage. He was working as a wine distributor during the day and a server/bartender at night when he developed his passion for wine. Reading about wine making and hanging out with winemakers back in the 90's, he bought a truckload of Washington fruit, paid for from proceeds of his first vintage release. His first labels were 'Dead Horse', named for the vineyard from which it came, and this 'Long Haul', named for the road he started walking with his venture.

Ryan had this big red open from the previous evening. He and I discovered and tasted and acquired this together at the producer's tasting room in Woodinville during our  Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour, Woodinville Wine Experience. 

Tonight's tasting was consistent with my notes posted from that earlier tasting at the producer.

8/25/2018 - I like this wine: 92 Points

Like many others in these pages, we tasted, and acquired this in the Woodinville tasting room. This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant dark berry, accented by what some refer to as violet and spiced plum, we detected notes of dark mocha, spice, hints of cassis and cedar with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/09/mark-ryan-columbia-valley-wine-tasting.html

 

 



Friday, February 4, 2022

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999

Rosemount Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999

We ordered a carry out pizza from Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I opened from our cellar this aged vintage Aussie Shiraz for a full throttle big red.

This is one of our favorite Australian wines from this era, one that we collected going back to the 1992 vintage. We held a decade of vintages of this label including every vintage during the nineties. Over the years, we discovered and collected more Australian Shiraz' from other producers but this was one of our benchmarks. 

This 1999 vintage was one of our favorites from those early years and is one of the few remaining bottles. In those days, these were bottled in six packs which is how we bought them so we invariably had six bottles per vintage (or more).

Rosemount Estate began producing high-quality wines from its founding in 1974. Rosemount’s 1980 Show Reserve Chardonnay won a rare Double Gold Medal at the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) in London, England, establishing the company’s reputation for quality in Australia and overseas.

Rosemount purchased the 100-year-old Ryecroft winery and vineyards in 1991 and developed other vineyards in the South Central Australia McLaren Vale region, and they source fruit from these vineyards to this day.

The McLaren Vale wine region lies 40 kilometres south Adelaide, the South Australian capital. Built around the coast of the Great Australian Bight, the region has a Mediterranean feel, with its seaside location.

McLaren Vale is a diverse region boasting a mix of sub-regions with different characteristics each best-suited for different varietals, depending on their geology, soils, elevation, rainfall and distance from the sea. Over 18000 acres of the region are covered in vineyards. While 51% of the McLaren Vale vines are Shiraz, the region is also home to many other varieties including Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet, and lesser known varieties such as Grenache, Mouvèdre (Mataro), Fiano and Vermentino.  

With this 1999 vintage, Rosemount Estate was awarded Winery of the Year at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. In 2000, Rosemount Estate was awarded Winemaker of the Year and Best Australian Producer at the IWSC in London and Best Australian Producer at the International Wine Challenge (IWC), and in 2011 were awarded New World Winery of the Year from Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Rosemount Estate’s Balmoral Syrah is a flagship label, sitting at the top of the Rosemount Estate family tree, achieving international recognition, winning both a Trophy and a Gold medal at the coveted Decanter World Wine Awards in 2011 and again in 2012 and regularly receiving 90+ points in the notable US Wine Spectator across multiple Balmoral vintages.

Balmoral is predominantly sourced from the McLaren Vale sub-region of Seaview, in the northwest corner of the region, northwest of the town center sitting above the McLaren Vale township at roughly 110 metres above sea level. The soils range from quite sandy to red clays with quite a bit of surface iron stone.
 
The Balmoral label is produced from premium parcels from carefully selected vineyard blocks (ranging from 50 to 100 years old) that produce tiny quantities of exceptional fruit that typically delivers intense depth of flavour, superb length and fine acidity with a soft, velvety tannin structure. 
 
Rosemount Estate Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999

This release was #37 of Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2002 with a rating of 93 points. It was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points from Wine and Spirits and Jeremy Oliver.

The Winemaker Notes for this release cited: "A classic, collectable Syrah - one of the best red wines to make it over here from Australia. Made from grapes grown on 50-100 year old vineyards, this McLaren Vale classic is matured nearly two years in new American oak prior to bottling. The richly textured fruit and deep, velvety tannins interweave beautifully into a long, harmonious finish. 15 years plus cellaring potential." 

This certainly held up for the prescribed fifteen years. Here at 22 years it is holding its own, showing well, but starting to show diminution from aging. The fill level, label and most importantly the cork were all in ideal condition, considering their age. 

I started to remove the cork with a traditional corkscrew and it was a bit soft and threatened to come apart. Switching to the ahso two pronged cork puller it extracted intact. 

The color was garnet colored with some brown bricking starting to set in, medium-full bodied, the full blackberry and black currant fruits are starting to give way to the non-fruit notes of tobacco, spice box, hints of pepper, anise and black olive with tangy acidity on the lingering finish. 

RM 88 points.

My first published review of this label was back in Aug, 19, 2003 - Rosemount Estate Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999, RM 92, WS 93 SS $53, Huge forward long mouth full of currant, plum, blackberry and anise. Bigger and more robust than other recent years. Try it and see why this is one of my perennial favorites - even better this year! 
 
I published follow on reviews: Rosemount Estates Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999 - Aug, 19, 2003, Nov 23, 2002, and my most recent previous review, September 17, 2016.
 
My previous review for this wine: This vineyard is one of the few in Australia with vines dating back a hundred years. The concentrated fruit is akin to the Chateau Tanunda with its legendary 100 year old vines. The story of  we Pour Boys discovering and then capturing the US allocation of this wine is written often in these pages. 

Dark inky purple garnet colored, medium-full bodied, forward  currant, plum, blackberry fruits turning to blueberry on the mid-palate, accented by a layer of anise, raisin and fig with hints of clove and spice.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3000 
 
Fellow Cellartrackers' reviews for this label: 

12/11/2020 - bdhanna Likes this wine: 89 Points  "Just past peak. A near perfect cork after two decades in the bottle. Consumed over two days. Popped and poured this wine, it opened up quickly. On day two the fruit was still fresh, this wine had softened to reveal increased depth and integrated complexity.

Dark burgundy color with little to no oxidation and clarity was medium. Aromas of bing cherry and raspberry. Flavors of black cherry cola, black pepper, raspberry framboise, leather, and a little funk. This Syrah has a medium finish. This is my last bottle of this vintage. Always a great fruit source and a good winemaking effort."

12/31/2018 - corkus Likes this wine: 94 Points "Purple brownish color. Mint, pepper, musk and brambles on the nose. Palette of pepper, blackberry, black cherry with mint overtones and a creamy light tannic finish. Still quite a long finish with a good acid spine. The fruit is not as prominent as it was and I think it's starting to get close to the end of it's drinking window, Hint: Be careful of the cork, it's starting to crumble!"

9/12/2015 - Bsmith457 Likes this wine: 95 Points "Very dark almost black colour. On second night, aromas primarily of oak and leather. Black berry, pepper and a sweet cherry flavour. Surprisingly fresh still. Tannins have not taken over at all and the fresh fruit is still evident. Still looks like it has few years in it."

6/18/2020 - Bsmith457 Likes this wine: 93 Points "Dark dirty crimson. Dry spice, rotted wood. Sweet plum, strawberry, black cherry, coffee beans. Full body, tannin is remarkably fine. Acidity is a bit low. Some signs of oxidation when first opened, the cork broke apart but could be recovered. Recovers very well, impressive wine for its age. I was worried it would be flat but still has good flavours, even if a bit dull. It’s my last bottle, but if I had more I would be happy to open them."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3000

https://www.rosemountestate.com/

 

 

 

 


Thursday, February 3, 2022

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot - whimsical label branding

Son Alec stopped by, so for casual midweek sipping with fresh fruits and some artisan cheeses, I opened from our cellar, this Aussie Merlot from a favored producer.

This is from the producer Mollydooker, who offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis. 

The 'Scooter' label is named after co-founder Sparky Marquis' racing cars which is/was his hobby. Sparky raced a big tyre scooter when he was younger.

In addition to Scooter, who adorns the Merlot label, other cartoon characters in the series of labels feature The Boxer (Shiraz), The Violinist (Verdelho), Two-Left Feet (Red Blend), The Maitre-D (Cabernet Sauvignon), and Miss Molly (sparkling Shiraz).

 
They also feature cartoonish carnival posters of their two 'Love Series' premium labels, 'Carnival of Love' and 'Enchanted Path'. We have fun collecting these wines and regularly and customarily serve the 'Love Series' labels at family occasions.

The Mollydooker "Family Series" labels features photos of  Sara Marquis' two children. The 'Blue Eyed Boy' label shows Sarah’s son Luke, shown stomping grapes as a kid, who now heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team. The Gigglepot label shows Sarah’s daughter Holly, who couldn’t stop laughing wearing some crazy black glasses. She does marketing for the Mollydooker brand. There also used to be 'Goose Bumps' sparkling Shiraz. I'm not sure where or how this fits but it appears to have been discontinued, or isn't currently available.

We collect and hold a vertical collection of Blue Eye'd Boy, their Shiraz/Syrah, as one of signature wines for our own 'blue eye'd boy', son, Alec.

Sadly, the producers founders, Sarah and Sparky Marquis have split up, Sparky departing the business, and Sarah, who is also winemaker, remaining as CEO. Interestingly, Sparky is a personal friend of my Australian colleague, with whom I interact weekly in running my global enterprise software business, my day job. They're friends and race car buddies, both owning and racing their cars on the amateur circuit down there. I'll look forward to meeting Sparky when I eventually visit down-under, once Covid subsides and business conditions warrant. I'll also look forward to visiting the winery and vineyards there. 

Mollydooker, under Sarah's leadership was awarded by Australian telcom company Telstra in the the SA Telstra Business Awards.  From the 21,000 entries, Mollydooker was not only awarded winners of the ‘Medium and Making Waves’ category, we were also named 2019 Telstra South Australian Business of the Year!

Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot 2007

This is from Mollydooker McLaren Vale, Long Gully Road Vineyard.

Interesting, that like the 2007 Napa red we opened the other night, this vintage release of this label also rates better than any other year for this wine, according to Vivino.

Wine Advocate gave this wine 91 points.

Wow what a surprise - (wife) Linda loved this - she prefers big bold spicy, peppery wines, ala a Aussie Shiraz. The profile of this was more so, obtuse, bold fruits, than a Bordeaux Merlot varietal profile of more reserved softer fruits as used in blends to soften the more tannin and structured Cabernet. At fifteen years, this was showing nicely and seemed to be still within its prime drinking window, showing no signs of diminution from age whatsoever.

Bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, vibrant expressive red and black berry fruits accented by bold spice with notes of pepper, cedar, and hints of cassis and bitter dark mocha with a full round tannin bright acid laced finish. 

RM 89 points.   

Cellartracker members' reviews were mixed - many finding this over the top, even over the hill several years ago. Most of them consumed this a decade ago! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=560534 

2/11/2012 - Colia wrote: 89 Points - "Still totally black and dense. Tannins are huge but soft, the fruit is a little muddled, but chocolate covered dried blueberries with a cup of doffee is pretty close. The finish is a little bitter."

6/9/2011 - ADiamond Likes this wine: 89 Points  "Big fruity, jammy wine. It went extremely well with a spicy Turkish meal. As long as you are selective as to what meal, it needs a meal, to drink this with you will love it."

1/15/2012 - tcarter Likes this wine: "Big jammy flavor coupled with leathery, earthy tones. Drinking great right now but probably best to drink this year."

5/3/2011 - ADiamond wrote: 88 Points - "A real fruit bomb, jammy, a ton of spice and boy is it hot Not a sipping wine, drink this wine with a heavy, rich meal and both will be enjoyable"

4/21/2011 - powrsurg wrote: 89 Points - "Spicy as usual. Fruity, with a strong pepper"

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=560534

https://mollydookerwines.com/

@MollydookerWine

Sunday, January 30, 2022

El Che Pulenta Gran Corte Filet Dinner

El Che Steakhouse & Bar for Spectacular Wine, Beefsteak and Seafood Dinner

Dearest friends Eric and Cathy visiting from Indy, treated us to dinner at El Che Steakhouse & Bar on the edge of the trendy Chicago West Loop's 'Restaurant Row'. Taking its name from its site in the old Checker Taxi Association Building on West Washington Street, just off Halsted, El Che has earned a reputation as one of Chicago's premier steakhouses. 

Executive Chef/Partner John Manion and partner John Boyd have fashioned El Che after Argentina's asados, the traditional backyard barbecues featuring platters of rustic flame-finished grilled beef with its custom 12-foot hearth for live-fire cooking. The massive open hearth at the end of the restaurant, includes two grills, a small wood-burning oven/smoker and three separate chapas (flat-top grills) - one each for vegetables, seafood and meat.

Chef‐Owner John Manion was raised in Detroit until his family moved to São Paulo, Brazil, when he was just 8 years old. He spent the next five years immersed in the culture and food. It was this experience that rooted his passion and ultimately his signature brand, Latin‐local.

In 2012, Manion opened his first restaurant La Sirena, which means “hidden mermaid,” offering the dark and slightly mysterious atmosphere of a hidden spot one might stumble upon. 

In 2016, he opened El Che, housed in the former Checker Taxi building, fulfilling his dream to bring authentic Latin cuisine to fine dining in Chicago.

El Che offers diners a range of experiences, seating at the bar, individual tables in the open dining room or an adjacent more private room, or two special price-fixe experiences, the Chef’s Counter, seated in front of the hearth with a 10-course tasting for two, or the Hearth Table offering three courses served family style. There's an adjacent private dining room or for general seating, there is a wine pairing offering to accompany menu selections from a broad WBTG - Wine By The Glass list. 

During the first week of every month Wine Director/GM Alex Cuper selects from the winelist a B-T-G list featuring the different regions, varietals and winemakers of South America. 

The menu features South American-tinged meats, seasonal vegetables, seafood, and novel barrio-inflected snacks with an imaginative award winning wine list with the midwest's largest selection of South American wines, the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence list showcases a veritable who's who in progressive South American winemakers. 

El Che Steakhouse & Bar has received praise from critics and locavores alike, including a “Top 50 Chicago Restaurants” by the Chicago Tribune, "Best New Steakhouses in America" by Conde Nast Traveler, and "10 Best Steakhouses in Chicago" by USA Today.

The upbeat trendy chic 100-seat restaurant and bar is a must try spot for fine wine and dining.  

Our dinner was fabulous, hitting on all cylinders with delicious food, perfectly prepared and presented, ideally paired with a spectacular wine from the extensive South American winelist, all served with attentive exemplary service. 

Following a pre-course of olives and wedge salad, we dined on filet of grilled beef, and scallops with parsnip puree, apples and chives (shown right), with sides of garlic parmesan french fries and creamed spinach. We finished with the decadent flowerless dark chocolate sea salt cake for dessert.

Not being especially knowledgeable in South American wines, I spent time earlier in the day studying the winelist and researching the offerings. I chose and came to dinner with three rank order winelist selections. I also brought a bottle BYOB in the event they were not available. Notably, our first choice was available and it proved to a wonderful, ideal selection as a perfect compliment to our dinner. 

Pulenta Gran Corte VII Mendoza Red Blend 2018

This is from the Pulenta family who have been producing wine in Argentina since emigrating from Italy back in 1912. Third generation brothers Hugo and Eduardo, started Pulenta Estate in 2002 to produce small lots of premium wines from two vineyards their father Antonio planted in the early 80’s and 90’s, one in Alto Agrelo in Luján de Cuyo, and the other in Los Árboles, Valle de Uco. Second generation Don Antonio Pulenta, planted Viñedos 'Don Antonio' in 1981 and Finca 'La Zulema' in 1992. 

The estate covers a total of 992 acres with 870 acres planted to vines, the Agua Amarga, Tunuyán and Finca 'La Zulema' vineyards located at the heart of Mendoza's premier growing region - Luján de Cuyo - near the town of Alto Agrelo, were among the first vineyards to be planted in the higher-altitude growing region of Mendoza at elevations between 3200 and 3900 feet. 

They are planted to Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris grape varietals. They are bottled under a portfolio of Pulenta Gran, Pulenta Estate, and La Flor labels.

The overall portfolio consists of more than two dozen labels, the Pulenta Estate portfolio of varietal wines are each represented with a roman numeral that identifies a varietal or a blend produced with grapes from the estate vineyards in Alto Agrelo and Valle de Uco. The portfolio is Estate Sauvignon Blanc VI, Estate Pinot Gris XIV, Estate Chardonnay VII, Estate Malbec I, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon III.

The Pulenta Estate Gran Corte label is the flagship premium blend, produced from the best barrels, selected by Eduardo and winemaker Javier Lo Forte. Each vintage is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat, although the proportions vary year on year.

The family has stated they believe the 2018 bottling is one of the best yet: a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Tannat, from a memorable harvest season in Mendoza, it represents a perfect expression of Pulenta’s terroir and potential for remarkable consistency, balance and harmony.

The grapes come from select vineyard blocks from their Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco vineyard locations.

The blend for the 2018 vintage release is 10% Tannat, 14% Petit Verdot, 18% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Malbec.

This release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling.

This was bright ruby colored with sprites of purple, full bodied, complex, nicely balanced, bright expressive ripe blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits with notes of spice, black-tea, tobacco and cocoa with round texture and silky tannins on a tangy acidic lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3998699

http://www.pulentaestate.com/

https://www.paulhobbsselections.com/pulenta-estate

https://twitter.com/pulentaestate

https://elchechicago.com/