Ivy Wheaton festive holiday setting - Orin Swift WBTG

Ivy Restaurant, Wheaton (IL) for a beautiful, festive holiday setting - features Orin Swift WBTG 

For a festive holiday celebration dinner, we dined at Ivy Restaurant in adjacent Wheaton (Illinois). 

I can't imagine a more suitable, beautiful, picturesque setting - an old church sanctuary with a large wood burning fireplace, stained glass, cathedral ceilings and warm wood trim. 

We hosted our family for our gala holiday celebration dinner back in 2016. Having a holiday season dinner at Ivy has been an annual event for many years. 

Knowing we were going different paths for our entree selections, Linda opting for seafood, hence white wine accompaniment, and me going for their BBQ ribs, hence a bold big Red, we didn't bring BYOB, rather, we each ordered WBTG - Wine-By-The-Glass for our individual selections. 

Linda ordered the Parmesan Crusted Herb Salmon served with citrus butter, sautéed green beans, and jasmine rice. For her wine selection she had a glass of Pieper Heidseick Champagne. 

I ordered the Ivy Signature Specialty, Slow Cooked BBQ Ribs with a glass of Orin Swift Abstract. 

Orin Swift Palermo
label - I don't get it.

Ivy feature a WBTG selection from the broad portfolio of Orin Swift wines. I wrote recently about these wines and their weird branding strategy with inventive and sometimes oft-putting, even weird labels. I understand a restaurant featuring a producer with a broad diverse portfolio of wines for their winelist offerings. 

Being focused on, arguably perhaps obsessive in these pages about wine branding and marketing, I find Orin Swift an unfortunate choice for the signature collection for a fine dining restaurant and the imagery and ambiance provided by Ivy. Never-the-less ... case in point ...

Tonight, while the Orin Swift Palermo (shown right) might have been a more suitable wine choice for my entree, the creepy label turns me off, hence, I went for the Abstract Red Blend for my wine choice. 

Orin Swift Abstract Red Blend 2020

This is a diverse blend of Grenache, Syrah and Petite Sirah, sourced from a "patchwork of individual lots that retain some of their character but meld seamlessly together—like the collage"— hence the name abstract and the label, a collage of disparate faces and other imagery artifacts. 

 

Orin Swift prides himself on weirdness, noting he'd rather spend his time in the cellar crafting wines than tending to branding, messaging and promotion.

Winemaker Notes on the wine: "Abstract is the epitome of complexity through geographic diversification. The wine, like the label, is a collage of many different parts and pieces. We source fruit from multiple vineyards, in multiple appellations, throughout the state. This not only allows us to create a style but maintain consistency from year to year. The label is over 230 individual images collected over many years, assembled over a four-week period. The wine, like the label, starts with over 200 pieces, whittled down over the course of a few months during multiple marathon tastings—not all of which made the blend. Resulting is a wine representative of the Golden State." 

Winemaker notes on this vintage release: "The 2020 Abstract pours a neon purple splash and an opaque maroon core with dark aromatics upfront. Black plum, boysenberry and hints of bing cherry and lavender invite a taste. On the palate, the aromatics turn into the sense of taste along with a touch of dark chocolate and reduced blackberry. Supple drying tannins and a slight chalky texture close the wine with a calming finish." 

Garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, bright expressive tangy fruits with notes of dark chocolate, black tea and tobacco notes with a moderate tannin finish - not polished or balanced but suitable for tangy spicy BBQ ribs.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4114357

https://www.orinswift.com/2020Abstract

https://ivyofwheaton.com/

Happy Holidays!   

https://twitter.com/ivyofwheaton

Red Wine with Chili? Bandol

Bandol Red Wine with Chili? La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2016

On the day of our first measurable snowfall in Chicago, the latest date of such in history, Linda made Chili for dinner. Friend and sorority Sister Pat R was over and the ladies asked for some wine. Wine? With Chili? Okay, why not? 

After thinking about it, I was going for something bold and expressive enough to stand up to the chili, but not such to offset or overpower it. I write often in these pages about the importance and benefit of properly pairing wine with food - doing it properly can amplify the pleasure of both, or the opposite effect if not done so correctly.

I initially thought of a hearty fruit filled Zinfandel or Shiraz/Syrah, but in the end, opted for something that would be a good balance between acidity and tannin content, medium to full-bodied. I selected this Bandol from the south of France. Bandol is a small village just to the west of Toulon.

 We drove through the Provence-Côte d'Azur region in the south of France as we followed the coast, returning from a day trip to St Tropez, returning via Marseille enroute back to Aix-en-Provence, when we visited the region. We also toured the Southern Rhone Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and several wine producers during that trip, two years ago. 

This proved to be a suitable and appropriate complement to the chili, however, I would not promote this combination for a fine wine dining experience. There are many better combinations for wine and food enjoyment. 

La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2016

This is an Appellation Bandol Controlee designated label, a Mourvèdre based blend.  This was a blend of 78% Mourvèdre, 16% Grenache, 4% Cinsault and 2% Syrah. This is a great example and showcase vintage label for this region and style of wine - perhaps a bit darker, bigger, more concentrated, tighter and more complex than typical years. 

This was rated 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 91 points by Joe Czerwinski of The Wine Advocate.  

Dunnuck noted the vintage, that "with the Southern Rhône Valley, Bandol appears to have had a banner year in 2016", This is brilliant Bandol!" 

At sub $30, this is another high QPR (quality price ratio) offering. Interesting that several other Bandol labels that sold out and out of stock at Binny's were priced at $40, $47, $75 and $99!

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, big dense and concentrated black berry and plum fruits with some gamey notes, pepper, glycerin, dusty earth and garrigue herbs turning to gripping tannins on the lengthy finish. 

I wrote earlier this yer that this likely will improve further and be more approachable and perhaps more integrated in five years and be suitable for another decade. I have a couple more bottles that will be fun to compare in five and then ten years time. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2714762

 

Spring Valley Katherine Cabernet Franc for lively sipping

Spring Valley Katherine Cabernet Franc for lively sipping

It was a bit poignant getting an announcement from this producer about ShariLee's (Corkrum - Derby) birthday yesterday, the matriarch of Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla. Sharilee (pronounced Sher’ a lee) Corkrum Derby, is granddaughter of Spring Valley founder Uriah Corkrum. We paid tribute recently to her husband Dean Derby on his passing just last month. 

Family owned and operated Spring Valley Vineyards goes back three generations to ShariLee's father Frederick, and grandparents, Uriah and Katherine Corkrum. All the wines in the SVV portfolio sport a namesake label of one of the family members. As members of their Family Circle club we hold a mini vertical and horizontal collection of all these wines dating back up to a decade. 

So it was fitting I pulled a Spring Valley wine last night for casual sipping with biscuits, cheese and holiday treats by the fire, watching a movie. I opted for the Katherine Cabernet Franc, 2011, the oldest in our collection of this label.

I've written in these pages about our visits to Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla, and meeting Dean Derby, writing a tribute to him on his passing recently. One of the highlights of our trip to Walla Walla was when we had the pleasure of meeting Dean Derby during our visit to the vineyards during our Walla Walla Wine Experience in 2019.

Spring Valley Vineyard Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley Katherine Corkrum 2011

 Spring Valley Vineyards Katherine Cabernet Franc 2011

This Cabernet Franc label is named in honor of founder Uriah Corkrum’s wife Katherine, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897.

Katherine Williams arrived in the Walla Walla Valley from Hay-On-Wye, Wales to visit her brother David, who was married to Uriah’s sister Rado Corkrum. Katherine and Uriah were married in 1897, and had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum.

This label is from grapes planted in 1995. It was first released in 2002. 

This vintage release is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot.

It was awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator and 89 points by Wine Enthusiast. 

Winemaker Notes - The 2011 vintage is very floral with predominant notes of violet. Rounding out the nose are aromas of dry herbs and hints of orange peel, white pepper and currant. On the palate, fresh red berries, cassis and strawberry. This wine has plenty of texture and is rich mid-palate, but has a soft and creamy finish.  

At a decade, this was garnet colored with a very slight brownish tinge, medium bodied, spicy black currant, raspberry and black cherry fruits with notes of white pepper, tobacco, spice and herbs with a moderate soft finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1659841

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/ 

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir presents a bit of a conundrum

Linda prepared an incredible comfort food soup, French Onion soup with medallions of beef. I pulled from the cellar a favorite label we discovered together on a memorable get-away weekend alfresco  wine/dine outing on the Chicago riverfront.

It was a decade ago, we spent the weekend in the City (Chicago), on the riverfront and we got a table overlooking the river on a warm sunny afternoon. We were seeking something light and refreshing and the sommelier suggested this Willamette Pinot Noir. Readers of this column know we're not big Pinot drinkers, opting for Bordeaux and Rhone varietals rather than Burgundies. Never-the-less we tried it and loved it and this label has been one of our favorite go-to's ever since. when selected for the right occasion and the right food pairing. 

We have a half dozen vintages of this label in our cellar and I pulled the oldest vintage as part of regular cellar management. Of course, more precise cellar management would pull wines that are nearest the close of their drinking windows to avoid holding wines too long (past their drinking window).

Domaine Serene Evensted Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007

This was wonderful, an ideal pairing with the hearty beef French onion soup, surprisingly delightful given the initial offsetting color impression. 

I am a bit conflicted on this wine as to its drinking window at fourteen years of age. It was showing a slight bit of darkening to the bright ruby color and it showed a touch of gaminess to the earthy tones, signs of diminution from age perhaps. 

But then I read the reviews and Wine Enthusiast wrote in 2011, "Although it is drinking like a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines such as this-it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over decades." 

Robert Parker Wine Advocate says 'drink it from 2011 to 2019' while Wine Spectator says '2012 through 2015'. I caution readers to not take these pundits too seriously, in the end, the only thing that matters is what you think and take from the experience with the wine.

Robert Parker wrote about toast, spice box and earth tones and Wine Spectator wrote about 'coffee' notes. Given the balance and elegance of the wine, I wonder if it was the profile and character, rather than its age, to which I attribute the darker notes. Since this is our last bottle, I may never know. I do know these were notes I don't normally associate with this label. 

My last blogpost tasting notes of this label.

Slight dark blackish bricking on the ruby color, medium bodied, notes of game, toast, earth and leather seemingly overtaking the bright cherry and red raspberry fruits, nicely balanced and a sense of elegance persist on the spicy tangy acidic but smooth polished finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1027405

http://www.domaineserene.com/   

https://twitter.com/SereneWine

@SereneWine

Hill Family Estate Origin Napa Valley Red 2018

Hill Family Estate Origin Napa Valley Red 2018

Label image from 2016

Alec and Vivianna joined us for a quiet Christmas eve dinner. As newlyweds they visited Hill Family Estate during their forest fire shortened honeymoon in Napa in September year before last. They visited the new estate winery, located just minutes south of Yountville just off the highway. They tasted this label there and continue to acquire it as part of their wine club allocation.

I wrote extensively about The Hill Family, lead by patriarch and proprietor and fourth-generation farmer Doug Hill in a blogpost last year, ironically a year ago at a Christmas dinner when we had the 2016 vintage of this label. 

 

Hill Family Estate produced their first wines in 2001, a Merlot and this red blend called Origin.
 

Today, the Hill Family owns 120 acres of vineyards with a properties on Atlas Peak, in Carneros, Oak Knoll and American Canyon. They are 100% family-farmed, family-owned and family-operated. Production ranges between 9,000 to 12,000 cases annually sourced from 12 different estate vineyards allowing them to select the highest quality fruit for their wines. 

 

The Hill family began to select and plant their own vineyards in the 1980’s, using their intimate knowledge of the diversity of Napa Valley terroir - the range of microclimates, soil variations and the many subtle growing factors which influence the characteristics of the grape and the resulting quality of wine. They planted Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Albariño, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the Carneros appellation. They planted Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon in the Oak Knoll district, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah at 1,500 feet elevation near Atlas Peak; both areas with a perfect environment to develop the rich berry flavor and intense fruit color that make these red wines some of the best in the world.

 

Origin is their Bordeaux blend crafted from the vineyards that Doug Hill farms in the cooler areas of southern Napa.comprising Bordeaux varietals with some Syrah, sourced from Hill Family estate vineyards - Merlot at Beau Terroir in Carneros, and Beau Terre in Oak Knoll for structure and plushy fruit, Malbec from the Baker Vineyard has become a big part of the palate structure for Origin with its big color and lower tannins while the Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon adds dignity and structure while Petit Verdot adds texture to balance the Malbec. The Syrah adds depth and color and bold fruit that complements the Merlot. 

Ironically, Alec brought and we had this same label from the 2016 vintage last year at Christmas dinner. Tonight, this was rounder, fuller and brighter with its addition of Syrah, and anchor of predominant Merlot vs. the Cabernet.

 

Winemaker notes: The 2018 Origin has lovely aromas of ripe plum, black cherry and vanilla. The broad entry has a big mouthful of berry jam, and the palate is full bodied and smooth, expressing the plums and cherry while adding a hint of mocha on the very drinkable finish.

According to the Red Club Winter Allocation Release Mailer accompanying the shipment, this is a blend of 37% Merlot, 29% Malbec, 16% Syrah, 13% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Napa Valley Appellation. 

Dark inky blackish purple colored, full bodied, bold full round complex concentrated structured but nicely integrated and balanced to be approachable, black berry, cherry and plum fruits with spicy cigar box, and hints of dark bitter mocha chocolate on a bright tangy big lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3814124

https://www.hillfamilyestate.com/

@HFEWine