Saturday, August 25, 2018

Guardian Cellars Tasting Visit Woodinville


Guardian Cellars Tasting Visit Woodinville 

Another stop in our Woodinville wine tasting tour as part of our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour was a visit to Guardian Cellars. This was another as yet undiscovered producer that was suggested as a worthwhile stop in the area. While perhaps not at the level of the premium Long Shadows selections, or the Fidelitas or Mark Ryan premium labels, Guardium produces some very respectable quality wines that represent high QPR - Quality Price Ratio selections. 

Unlike many of the Woodinville winery tasting rooms that are sited in strip malls or commercial centers resembling an outlet mall, Guardian is housed in their own freestanding building in a quaint yellow cottage/home with a wrap around porch, ideal for casual wine sipping.



The Guardian story is interesting and storybook. Founder Jerry Reiner was a Seattle law enforcement officer and amateur winemaker on the side. After graduating from Univerity of Washington with a degree in organic chemistry, and the police academy, he worked as a volunteer apprentice at Woodinville wineries - Mathews Cellars, Mark Ryan and Baer, assisting friends with harvest or in the tasting rooms. 

Jerry met Jennifer shortly after she started working as a reporter for the Seattle Times newspaper. After a courtship, Jerry the cop and Jennifer the reporter got married. Four years after Jerry's graduation, they started Guardian Cellars producing a Bordeaux-style blend, a Cabernet and a Syrah. Upon opening the Guardian Cellars tasting room in November 2007, all of their 350 cases were gone by the end of the day. When the 2005 vintage was released months later, their entire production was gone in just a few days.

Today, Jerry, protege Joel, and the Guardian team produce 16 different wines under the Guardian label and a second label, Newsprint. This year's production exceeded 10,000 cases. While he is still a cop, he continues to make wine as head winemaker. Like Jerry, Jennifer also still has her “day job" as a reporter for KOMO (ABC) TV. When not working, or tending to their two daughters, Josephine and Jillian, she works in winery promotions, and hospitality where she can often be found pouring wine in the tasting room on the weekends

Fruit for Guardian wines is sourced from leading vineyards in Central Washington Columbia Valley - from sandy soils of Conner Lee Vineyard, in the Columbia Valley; west to the petrified tree fossils lining the soil in StoneTree Vineyard, in the Wahluke Slope; and southeast to the loam soils of Red Mountain.

 As I have written in these pages pertaining to several of the Washington State, Woodinville producers, many of their wines are crafted from fruit sourced from major vineyards. The wines are distinguished by the handicraft of the winemakers in the making of and blending of the wines. A few have Estate vineyards while many source their grapes from the same vineyards year after year under long term contracts. 

The Conner Lee Vineyard is in the Columbia Valley AVA near Othello, Washingon, and dates back more than 35 years to the early 1980's, the early days of Washington wine grape production. Conner Lee is planted in in Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier grape varietals. These grapes are used in the Guardian flagship Bordeaux blend label  'Gun Metal', since the very start of the winery.

The 250 acre StoneTree Vineyard in the Wahluke Slope AVA was planted in 2000. The name of the vineyard is derived from the petrified tree fossils found in the surrounding hills. The vineyard is located on a rolling sloping hillside northwest of Mattawa, Washington, surrounded on one side by the Columbia River and on the other by the Saddle Mountains. Guardian considers StoneTree as their 'go-to' vineyard as a primary source for their fruit.

The Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA lies on the southwest slope of Red Mountain, and is considered the source of some of Washington’s finest grapes. Klipsun was named one of the Top 25 Vineyards in the World by Wine & Spirits magazine, Klipsun primarily grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Nebbiolo. The 120-acre estate was founded in 1982 by Patricia and David Gelles and was acquired by the Terlato Wine Group of Chicago in early 2017.


The Obelisco Vineyard, planted in 2006 in the Red Mountain AVA, produces classic Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for several of Washington's top premium producers. 


The Quintessence Vineyard, also in Red Mountain, while a newer vineyard, is also a well known source for several top producers and well known labels. Guardian works closely with the Quintessence vineyard team to grow the perfect grapes according to their plans and expectations. Guardian has a long term arrangement to source 22 acres of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from blocks planted in 2011. These blocks are known for fruit-driven dusty-red tannin characteristic so common in the best Red Mountain fruit.


Guardian wines are labeled with whimsical names befitting the marriage of a policeman and a beat reporter, with a sense of humor, producing wines together, Confidential Informant, Chalk Line, Rookie and Alibi.

The wines we tasted:
  • Angel Sauvignon Blanc 2017
  • Newsprint Chardonnay 2016
  • Chalk Line Washington State Red Wine 2016
  • Gun Metal Washington State Red Wine 2016
  • Alibi Red Mountain Red Wine 2016
  • The Rookie Red Mountain Red Wine 2016 
  • Confidential Source Columbia Valley Red 2016
  • Newsprint Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
  • Newsprint Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc 2016 

We tasted and acquired several of these wines to bring home and look forward to returning for more and will keep a keen eye out for these labels to appear here in the Midwest in distribution.

https://www.guardiancellars.com/







Fidelitas Red Mountain Wine Tasting in Woodinville

Fidelitas Columbia Valley Red Mountain Wine Tasting in Woodinville tasting room

Another one of the highlights of our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour was visiting the Fidelitas tasting room in Woodinville. We first discovered Fidelitas wines when one of the winery representatives visited Naperville several years ago and we acquired their wine as a result. According to my records and wine journal, this occurred back on Oct 5, 2005 at Binny's Naperville. At that time, hosted by Chris F of Binny's, we tasted and I acquired Fidelitas Optu Columbia Valley Red Wine 2002. We enjoyed that half case from 2005 through 2015. Hence, I was familiar with Fidelitas and eager to get reacquainted with our visit to their Woodinville tasting room. 

Fidelitas is the project of Charlie Hopps, early pioneer and leader on the Washington State wine scene dating back to its early days in the early 1980’s. It began with Charlie fermenting berry wines from a family vineyard near his in-laws in Pasco, Washington. He developed a love for wine and attended the renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California – Davis, graduating in 1988 with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After graduation he returned to Washington and worked for Mike Januik at Snoqualmie/Langguth winery. After some time in Walla Walla at Waterbrook Winery, he rejoined Januik in 1990 as a member of the winemaking team at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville.

In 1993, Charlie became the Head Red Winemaker where he managed Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge facility near Paterson, Washington. There, he had gained experience making a large number of wines, learning and improving the art of making fine wines in Washington. He had the opportunity to work with the legendary Antinori family from Italy on a joint venture producing the Col Solare label from1995 through 1998.

In the winter of 1999, he left Chateau Ste. Michelle to venture into making his own wine. Working with the startup of Three Rivers Winery, he was winemaker from 1999 through the 2002.  During that  time, he started Fidelitas in 2000. The first vintage was a Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot blend named Optu. It was this wine that we first acquired from the 2002 vintage release from that initial introduction to Fidelitas. This wine is still in the Fidelitas portfolio today, as the Red Mountain Bordeaux-style blend.

In 2007, Fidelitas purchased land in the Red Mountain, AVA and planted a small three-acre vineyard.  There they built a tasting room. and added an additional ten acres that were planted in the spring of 2015 with red Bordeaux varietals. Since that first Red Mountain Fidelitas in 2005, production has continued to expand.

In 2012 vintage, they released Fidelitas Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Working with other top growers in the Red Mountain AVA, Fidelitas produces vineyard designated wines from Ciel Du Cheval Vineyard, Blackwood Canyon Vineyard, and Quintessence Vineyard, as well as blends and varietal wines from throughout the AVA.

Today, Charlie is consulting winemaker for several other wineries throughout the region.  2017 marked his 30th vintage making Washington wines. In Charlie Hoppes name "Washington's Top Malbec Maker" by the Andy Perdue of the Seatle Times.

He and his wife, Terri, have four adult children who are working and going to school around the U.S.  Their son, Will, recently joined the team at Fidelitas. Will worked in the operations since he was 13. After getting his degree from University of Portland, he went into the wine business working for Nicolas-Jay, a Willamette Valley Pinot-producing startup. Joining Fidelitas, he heads up the Woodinville tasting room. In 2019. he will join Charlie working in the cellar for the harvest, as they build a multi-generational winery.

We tasted the following wines in the tasting room:

Fidelitas Optu Red Mountain White Wine 2015
Fidelitas The Canyons Vineyard Red Wine 2015
Fidelitas Red Mountain Malbec 2015 
Fidelitas Red Mountain Merlot  2015
Fidelitas Quintessence Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015


Quintessence Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

This is the Fidelitas 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Red Mountain Quintessence Vineyard. It is produced in the 'Old World' style, aged in 96% New French Oak.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, with notes of tobacco leaf and hints of olive undertones against the firm structured but balanced black berry and subdued blue berry fruits accented by notes of dark chocolate with a lingering moderate tannin finish. 576 cases were produced.

We bought this wine and carried it home. 

RM 93 points. 94 Points, Jeb Dunnuck

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2935238




Fidelitas "The Canyons" Vineyard Red Wine 2015 


The Canyons Vineyard Red Wine is named for the deep ravines that cut through the vineyard site. This is a blend 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, and 12% Merlot, aged in 80% New French Oak. 360 cases were produced.


Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, notes of black berry and hints of black raspberry and cherry, herbs and spice with nice full tannins on the long finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2932699
 We acquired this and carried it home.





Fidelitas Red Mountain Malbec 2015



Charlie Hoppes was name "Washington's Top Malbec Maker" by the Andy Perdue of the Seatle Times for this wine.

Fruit for the Red Mountain Malbec is sourced from three unique vineyard sites within the AVA; 56% Kiona Heart of the Hill Vineyard, 24% Scooteney Flats Vineyard, 20% The Canyons Vineyard. 
This was aged in 22% New American Oak, 9% New French Oak; 552 cases were produced.

Dark garnet colored medium bodied, bright red raspberry and cherry fruits with notes of herbs and hints of spice, white pepper and minerality with balanced acidity on a subdued finish. 

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2901200


Fidelitas Red Mountain Merlot 2015


While this is 100% Red Mountain Merlot it is sourced from five different Red Mountain Vineyards - 44% Red Mountain Vineyard, 24% Red Heaven Vineyard, 16% Scooteney Flats Vineyard, 8% Kiona Vineyard, 8% The Canyons Vineyard. It was aged in 32% New French Oak, 32% New American Oak. 575 cases were produced.

Charlie Hoppes has noted, “Washington’s original reputation for great wine is based on Merlot”. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright rich vibrant berry fruits with bright acidity and smooth soft lingering tannins on the finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2913284

http://www.fidelitaswines.com/

The Fidelitas vineyard is in the Red Mountain AVA, the smallest of the fourteen Washington State appellations. Red Mountain is gaining distinction from producing some of the top wines from the State. It is known for a wide range of grape varietals, most notably Bordeaux varietals.

According to the Fidelitas website, the Red Mountain AVA is unique, characterized for the following reasons.

A Southwestern Facing Slope

The southwest slope of the Red Mountain AVA provides the vineyards in the region with a directional aspect to the sun that is ideal for prolonged sunlight exposure and warmth. These highly desirable conditions allow for a ripeness in tannins that is recognized as a primary characteristic of Red Mountain fruit.

Warm Summers and Winters

Red Mountain experiences more growing degree days than any other region in the state.  The high latitude (N 46*) and topography contribute temperature swings experienced during the growing season, with daytime temperatures averaging 90 °F and night time temperatures dropping below 50 °F. These heat accumulation days create ideal temperatures for highly marketable grapes, exhibiting ripeness and concentration.  The cooler evenings help to retain acidity levels which allows for the exceptional balance and structure found in Red Mountain grapes, and the wines crafted from them.

Low Rainfall

Red Mountain gathers less than 10 inches of rain per year, requiring irrigation in the vineyards.  The use of drip irrigation provides ideal grape growing conditions through canopy management. Additionally, Red Mountain vines experience dramatically lower mold and mildew pressure compared to most other vineyard regions.

Smallest AVA in Washington State

Red Mountain is the smallest recognized American Viticultural Area in Washington State, with 4040 acres.  Of that, about 2700 acres have been determined plantable, and only 1500 is currently under vine. Red Mountain is defined by natural borders, with the ridge of the mountain to the north and the Yakima River to the west.  Red Mountain resembles a growing region more like the Old World, where one can see each block of each vineyard from a single vantage point.

AVA Specific Soils

The predominate soils of Red Mountain are not found anywhere else in the state.  Wine blown Loess (Warden, Hezel, and Scootenay) were brought in by pre-historic floods.  The high alkalinity and calcium carbonate content of the soil, along with its granular consistency, allows for each vine to form a well established root system. In soils with this composition, root systems are able to reach deep to obtain the necessary nutrients and moisture.

Consistent Winds

The prevailing winds come out of the Southwest and are notable for their frequency and velocity. The regular gusts of warm air flow through the AVA’s vineyards during the growing season, keeping the grape clusters small and concentrating the flavors of the fruit - which contributes to their richness and intensity


Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting

Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting

One of the recommended producers to visit during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour, Woodinville Wine Experience was Mark Ryan Winery. Mark Ryan wines are the artwork of Mark Ryan McNeilly a self taught winemaker who learned the craft working with well known producers, acquiring Bordeaux varietal grapes from renowned vineyards in the Columbia Valley Red Mountain appellation. He produces an extensive portfolio of wines from across the region, but is most notably known for several art crafted Bordeaux Blends. We tasted and acquired these wines at the Mark Ryan tasting room in Woodinville, Washington

Woodinville is a Seattle suburb that has become a wine mecca with several dozen tasting rooms of producers of wines sourced from vineyards in the Columbia Valley in the center of the State, three hours to the east. The tasting rooms inhabit numerous free standing sites as well as several commercial centers that resemble outlet malls but filled with wine producers. 

The wine flight offered at the Mark Ryan tasting room consists of Burgundian varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Oregon, and several Bordeaux varietal blends sourced from the Washington State central Columbia Valley. Mark Ryan dutifully lists the vineyard sources for each of its wines accordingly. They represent the notable famous sites from the Central Washington State appellations. Vineyards and their applicable appellations that provide grapes for Mark Ryan Wines include Red Willow from the Yakima Valley AVA, the famous Ciel du Cheval vineyard from Red Mountain AVA, Klipsun, Red Mountain, Quintessence and Obelisco Vineyards from Red Mountain, Olsen Vineyard and Red Willow from Yakima Valley and Phinny Hill Vineyard from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

The fact that these famous vineyards source grapes to many producers, the differences in their various labels is the result of their handicraft of winemaking since they all come the same sites, rather than the difference of the vineyard sites themselves. Never-the-less, we were extremely impressed with the quality of wines coming out of the Columbia Valley producers. 

Many of these wines rival the premium wines from California notable regions such as Napa and Sonoma Valleys, some at relative bargain prices of up to half less, since they don't yet have the cache of the more historic areas. Seize the opportunity to discover these wines as this differential won't last as they become better known.

Like many of the Woodinville and region's producers, Mark Ryan sources its fruit from growers of the large established vineyards. Many of these are long established relationships under contracts for specific rows of a vineyard or blocks. While not Estate wines, where the grapes are sourced from producer owned sites, it offers the next best thing. This is important of course to reflect Terroir, the unique essence of climate, soil, site, as it manifests itself in the wine, consistently over time, from vintage to vintage. 

Tasting flight:

The scheduled tasting flight on offer for the day was as follows and as pictured. This is a great bargain to taste this range of quality wines for $15, which is refundable with purchase. As usual, we tasted, and acquired several wines beyond the standard flight. 

Megan Anne Cellars Chardonnay 2015, sourced from notable vineyards in Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills in the Willamette Valley in Oregon

Megan Anne Cellars Pinot Noir 2015 from the Willamette Valley Chehalem Mountain 

Readers of these pages know we're fans and collectors more based on Bordeaux Varietal wines and have we focused the following wines that were comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Interesting, these wines were based on grapes sourced from the same vineyards, as noted above and were largely differentiated by the composition of the Blend of the grapes in each label.  

Mark Ryan 'Long Haul' Red Wine Blend 2015

The Mark Ryan Long Haul label is composed primarily of Merlot from Yakima Valley’s Red Willow Vineyard where the average vine age is 25 years. The vineyard site's ancient soils were above the Missoula flood plains of the river valley. Being predominantly Merlot, this is in the style of the Right Bank Bordeaux, or those produced in the appellations on the north and east sides of the Gironde River that bisects the region.

Vineyard Sources:

  • Red Willow, Yakima Valley
  • Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain
  • Klipsun, Red Mountain
  • Quintessence, Red Mountain
  • Olsen, Yakima Valley

Blend

  • 84% Merlot
  • 6% Cabernet Franc
  • 8% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2% Petit Verdot
This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant dark berry, accented by what some refer to as violet and spiced plum, we detected notes of dark mocha, spice, hints of cassis and cedar with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering finish.  

RM 92 Points, Wine Advocate gave it  (89-91) Points


Mark Ryan Water Witch Red Wine 2015

Vineyard Source was the Quintessence Vineyards on Red Mountain

Producer's note:

Quintessence Vineyards is a 410-acre parcel of land with a base elevation of 675 feet, rising to 1,025 feet as it reaches Red Mountain AVA's southwest-facing slopes. Quintessence founders Dick Shaw and Paul Kaltinick planted their first vines as partners on Red Mountain in 2010. They launched Quintessence with a planting of 68 acres along Red Mountain's southwestern slope. Positive response was immediate, with customers pointing to "world class vineyard management" and "spectacular fruit" as some outstanding attributes. Additional planting followed, with similar success. Now, with the expansion along the eastern ridge and slop of Red Mountain, Quintessence will encompass some 300 acres in total. Quintessence is made up of premium land, a talent for farming, dedicated management, ideal growing conditions, and a love for what they do.


310 cases produced; aged in 70% new French oak barrels


Blend

  • 60% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 30% Merlot
  • 8% Cabernet Franc
  • 2% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet and purplish colored, full bodied, rich concentrated bright forward extracted black raspberry fruit accented by layers of exotic spices, sweet mocha chocolate and notes of sweet oak and creme de cassis with silky polished tannins on a full long smooth polished finish. 

RM 93 points; Jeb Dunnuck The Wine Advocate (92-94) Points



Mark Ryan 'The Dissident' Columbia Valley Red Blend 2016

Like the wines above, this is also a Bordeaux varietal blend, sourced from several Columbia Valley vineyards, distinguished largely by the composition of the blend. Like the others, we tasted and acquired this wine at the Woodinville tasting room. This label was $20 cheaper than those above representing great value QPR (Quality Price Ratio) in this Bordeaux Blend.

Winemaker's Notes on 'The Dissident'; 

Some of Washington State’s finest vineyards have provided fruit for the 2016 The Dissident. The Dissident is a wine that we create to complement the Dead Horse and Long Haul. People sometimes think The Dissident is made up of wines that don’t make the cut in the final blends of the Dead Horse and Long Haul, which couldn’t be further from the truth. The same vineyards, barrels and attention to detail go into crafting The Dissident as go into every wine in the Mark Ryan program. While the Dead Horse and Long Haul are crafted to be supremely ageeable, The Dissident is built to offer a more approachable wine younger in its development. 


Vineyard Sources:

  • Quintessence, Red Mountain
  • Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain
  • Klipsun, Red Mountain
  • Obelisco, Red Mountain
  • Phinny Hill, Horse Heaven Hills
  • Red Willow, Yakima Valley


Blend

  • 56% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 24% Merlot
  • 17% Cabernet Franc
  • 3% Petit Verdot


Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, dark berry, black currant and black cherry fruits are accented with notes of spice, mocha and hints of cedar with subtle tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 91 points; Wine Advocate (92-94) Points (June 2017)

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2914672

Mark Ryan Winery 'Lost Soul' Yakima Valley Red Willow Vineyard Syrah 2015
 
Mark Ryan Winery offers this extended barrel aged Syrah. Sourced from fruit from the Red Willow Vineyard in Yakima Valley, Lost Soul is a single vineyard representation of Red Willow Syrah and embodies the cooler side of Syrah. The wine was aged in 54% new thick staved 500L French oak barrels for an extended period of 30 months.
The Red Willow vineyard is one of the oldest vineyards in the state of Washington. It is a family operation owned and operated by Mike Sauer, his wife Karen, sons Jonathan and Daniel, and son-in-law Rick Willsey. The vineyard is located on the Yakama Indian Reservation, on steep south-facing slopes in the Cascade foothills, in the Yakima Valley AVA. The first wine grapes were planted in 1973 under the direction of Dr. Walt Clore, a legendary viticulturist and winemaker that helped found the early days of Washington State quality wines. 

This was dark inky purple, full bodied with black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by pepper, smokey, earthy leather with smooth sweet tannins.

RM 91 points; Wine Advocate, 93 Points