Saturday, April 15, 2017

Rivetti La Spinetta Nebbiolo

Train Day Adventure culminates in lunch at Italian Village featuring wine selection Rivetti La Spinetta Nebbiolo

We took the grand-kids into the City of Chicago for a 'train day' adventure riding all forms of trains around the city to some landmark locations. Our train adventure included Metra into the city, boarding the Elevated CTA at historic Quincy Station, riding the Pink Line to switchback via the overhead bridge on the Green Line, riding around the loop, connecting to the Red Line at Roosevelt/McCormack Place, riding through Chinatown, and switching back in the middle of the Dan Ryan at landmark Sox Park, ending on the Red Line Subway at Monroe Street station, a short walk to legendary Italian Village restaurant, where we dined for lunch.

I've featured Italian Village often in these pages including their historic wine cellar. We visited the wine cellar and met with Wine Director Jared Gelband where he was busy updating the volumnous wine-list with recent acquisitions (shown pictured) - almost a full time job in of itself.

We discussed his planning for an upcoming wine dinner, and planning for a business dinner I am hosting there at the end of this month.

Like a kid in a candy store, I scoured the cellar for a wine selection to accompany today's lunch, for my upcoming business dinner, as well as to spot some legendary wines and favorite selections for future visits.

With such an extraordinary extensive selection, its not hard to find spectacular wines and special finds for any occasion. My short list of such wines for my ultimate wine tasting for the ultimate special occasions might be:
  • Grange Hermitage 1990 - special birthyear wine
  • Romani Conti St Vivant 1991 - another special birthyear wine
  • Konigsgaard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - one of my all time favorite, memorable wines
  • Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT 1997 - a classic
  • La Tenuta Ornellaia Masseto 2003 - another classic - featured in an earlier IV wine dinner
These wines are pictured below at the bottom of this post.

But back to reality and the task at hand, to select wine for today's lunch to accompany our entrees of my Veal Parmigiana, and Linda and Erin's Eggplant Parmigiana. I chose a La Spinetta Nebbiolo.

We dined in one of their private alcove tables offering a unique intimate dining experience. 

Rivetti La Spinetta Langhe Nebbiolo 2011.

The winemaker's notes for this wine ... "typical light red of Nebbiolo musky aromas of strawberry, tobacco and wild herbs sweet and spicy in the mouth, with good grip and firm acidity to the flavors of strawberry and mint, aromatic and elegant" ...

I found this dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black currant and black berry fruits accented by tones of tobacco, herbs and spice with hints of eucalyptus on a firm acidic gripping tannin finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1865224

http://www.la-spinetta.com/winespiedmont.html

Italian Village - https://italianvillage-chicago.com/








Saturday, April 8, 2017

Social Table Wine Dinner

Social Table Lincoln Park, Chicago Wine Dinner

Dr Dan arranged a special dinner at the Social Table in Lincoln Park, Chicago, a venue where your group, lead by a Chef/instructor prepares your own dinner, then dines in a private dining room.

It's a perfect setting for an extraordinary wine/dine adventure, allowing wine aficionado diners to conduct a self paced wine tasting and wine/food paring of BYOB wines in a relaxed comfortable setting.

Our Chef/instructor this evening was Alysa, who trained at the CIA - Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, NY.

The dinner menu was Beef Wellington with red wine mushroom reduction sauce, roasted beet salad with goat cheese, pine nuts and greens, garlic mashed potatoes and Chocolate Pots de Crème dessert.

The wine flight was primarily Bordeaux for the evening as our Pour Boys wine group, Dan, Lyle and I all brought Bordeaux wines to accompany the beef entree dinner.

The Theulet Monbazillac was superb with the goat cheese salad. The Bordeaux paired ideally with the Beef Wellington main extree, especially the pate' layer. The chocolate dessert was highlighted perfectly with the Croft Port and the Giuraud Sauterne. 

The main dinner course wine flight in order of tasting ...

Sea Smoke 'Gratis' Santa Rita Hills California Grand Cru Chardonnay 2009
Château  Theulet Antoine Alard Monbazillac 1998
Château  Figeac St Emilion Grand Cru Classe' 2009
Château  Lanessan Haut Medoc 1995
Château  Lafon Rochet St Estephe 2003
Château  Gruaud Larose St Julien 1989
Château  Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien 1989
Château  Pontet Canet Paulliac 2009
Château Guiraud 1er Grand Cru Classe' Sauterne 2006
Crofts Vintage Port 1994

Other wines to complement and fill out the wine flight ...

Ferrari-Carano Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2014
Decoy Napa Valley Pinot Noir 2013
Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013


Dinner group

Pour boys (& girls)











more to come ...

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Lewis Alec's Blend 1997


Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Alec's Blend 1997 - Son Alec's Signature Namesake Label selection for his birthday eve dinner


On the eve of son Alec's birthday, we pulled a Lewis Alec's Blend from the cellar for dinner.

I've often written in these pages about the fun we have with this branding, with its signature 'L' on the label, ala Laverne and Shirley, or wife Linda, or her mother Lucy, or our daughter Erin Leigh, or her daughter, our first grandchild/daughter Lucy! That coupled with the Hoosier heritage of Randy Lewis, Indy 500 race driver from our native Indiana, and, their affinity to family, naming labels after their grandkids - Alec, Ethan and Mason,  we adopted Alec's Blend as a signature label for son Alec and feature it at family celebrations.

Lewis wines are family favorites for such special occasions, punctuated by this namesake Blend for son Alec. Lewis Cabernets are some of our favorites and we have a decade long vertical of Alec's as well as their Cabs, dating back to this '97. This blend is dedicated to Randy and Debbie Lewis' first grandson Alec who was born on the day of the harvest of the grapes for this wine leading to the name. I believe this may be the, or certainly close to the inaugural vintage of this label/blend - its certainly the oldest I have ever seen (or tasted).

It should not be a surprise that we love this wine with its blend of our favorite varietals - Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, from our favorite region Napa Valley.

This was a great accompaniment to Linda's grilled marinated beef flank steak and twice baked potatoes dinner.

Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Alec's Blend 1997

We hold more than a dozen vintages of this label dating back to this 1997, our last bottle of the oldest vintage in our vertical collection. Now at twenty years of age, this is just starting to show any signs of aging with the bright fruits starting to give way to tobacco and leather non-fruit flavors.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, it showed full, concentrated complex black raspberry and black berry fruits accented by tones of clove, hints of black tea and cedar starting to give way to notes of tobacco leaf and leather on a spicy oak moderate firm but smooth tannin finish.

This vintage blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, and 15% Petit Verdot. The Bordeaux varietals no doubt contribute to its longevity, impressive none-the-less, drinking this well at twenty years. As I've noted before, tastings like this leave me confident to be patient with our vertical collection of this label.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=51612

http://www.lewiscellars.com

Saturday, April 1, 2017

90+Cellars Lot 94 Napa Cab

Ninety Plus Cellars "Lot 94" Rutherford Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

I wrote a feature on Ninety Plus Cellars and their negociant business where they buy excess fruit from growers, or bulk wine, or in some cases bottled but unlabeled wine from producers, and bottle or release it under their own private label series. Once in a while this results in an extraordinary value in a wine offered at a fraction of the original producer's or grower's offering price, hence the need to keep the source secret and release under their own or private label. This Lot 94 may be such a wine.

The challenge of course is that you can't get too attached to a wine because there may not be a follow on vintage, or there may be sporadic intermittent releases every couple of years, or perhaps only in lesser years when the quality of the product is not up the standards for the primary label. Or, you may get lucky, and the producer has excess inventory or product available and is eager to release it to a trusted outlet. 

Ninety Plus Cellars have built an extensive brand with an extensive selection of wines from around the world, released under their own label. Their nomenclature of the Lot number for any particular wine indicates the source of the product so consumers can identify such from one vintage to the next. The challenge of course is that true identity of the source is not revealed, although there are times when it can be determined, either through mis-steps in the packaging (once the bottles had already been filled and corked with corks branded by the original producer), or there have been times when the original wine can be determined by the unique blend of the vintage.

There have been several Ninety Plus wines that I have discovered where I acquired all that I could obtain to keep for enjoyment and value over time, Lot 101, Washington State, Columbia Valley Syrah was one such example.

Ninety Plus Cellars "Lot 94" Rutherford Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

According to Ninety Plus Cellars, "This distinguished Cabernet Sauvignon was made from fruit picked from vines situated on the east side of the valley in a vineyard that was first planted in the 1890s. Upon alluvial and volcanic soils these densely planted vines produce Cabernet Sauvignon that makes some of the best wine in Napa. This is an all-star Cabernet with a pedigree that's unrivaled by anything we've put in a bottle."

They assert that the offering price for the wine under the source producer's label is double the price of the discounted private label. That may indeed be the case. In any event, I'll testify that this is a high QPR - quality price ratio, great value wine that is comparable to product twice its price.

This was one of the wines of the week, featured at the Saturday tasting of local Vin Chicago outlet. So it was, that after tasting at the Vin Chicago Saturday tasting, I grabbed a couple bottles to bring home and try again with different foods or accompaniments. I expect I'll be going back to buy more for great value high quality every day drinking, as well as for special occasions.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, complex sweet black currant and berry fruits, with notes of mocha, herbs, tobacco and hints of spicy oak and vanilla with a smooth polished finish.
I look forward to opening a bottle to taste with a savory meal.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2520637

https://store.ninetypluscellars.com/lot-94-cabernet-sauvignon-rutherford-napa-valley-california-p67.aspx

Cune Rioja Reserva 2010

Cune Rioja Reserva 2010

I first wrote about this wine after tasting it at Son Ryan's and then buying some for our consumption. This Cune Rioja Reserva is a Tempranillo based blend.  As I wrote in my review of this wine back at the time,  Cune is actually named after the initials of the production company, C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España). By their testament, this is produced in the style of "a red ‘clarete’ wine was made as a fine wine in the style of the Bordeaux “Claret” produced by the great chateaux’s of the Medoc." While we picked up the initial bottles of this 2010 vintage release at Binny's, our local beverage superstore, this is now on the floor at Vin Chicago, our other local discount wine merchant.

 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Reserva 2010

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, well balanced acidic backbone, smooth and polished, nicely integrated oak flavors predominate, forward dark berry fruits and soft floral accentuate the classic Rioja smoky creosote with hints of vanilla on a lingering finish.

This is a blend of Tempranillo: 85%, Grenacha, Graciano and Mazuelo 15%.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1925300

http://www.cvne.com/ 

Friday, March 31, 2017

Hahn Meritage Central Coast Red Table Wine 2006

Hahn Meritage Central Coast Red Table Wine 2006

We bought a lot of this 2006 vintage Central Coast Red Table Wine label back upon release and enjoyed it as our every day drinking red wine and recommended it to others. I wrote back in 2014 that this was the last remaining bottle from that era and as such it was time to drink, showing its age and clearly being at the mature end of its drinking window. Still it was good that night with pizza. In that wineblog post, I chronicled the terminology and licensing and branding details of the phenomenon of the 'Meritage' term.

Well it wasn't our last bottle as I found two more languishing down in the cellar so I pulled one to sip with cheese, chocolates and Italian beef sandwiches this weekend. It was still holding its own after eleven years, although past its prime drinking window. The fruit is still bold and vibrant, taking on a bit of a raisin notes showing its age. 

My earlier review, "This is a high QPR - quality price ratio red wine blend of Bordeaux varietal grapes. Showing its age, the dark berry fruit is showing at over ripe with taste of raisins with hints of tobacco and leather as the fruit starts to subside. Still dark blackish purple, medium to full bodied with hints of oak, its time to drink up".

My rating at this stage of its life - RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=462555


http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/11/hahn-central-coast-meritage-2006.html

Thursday, March 30, 2017

Chateau St Jean Robert Young Chardonnay

Chateau St Jean Robert Young Vineyard Alexander Valley Chardonnay 2012

With Will and Sarah visiting from LA, Linda prepared shrimp scampi with garlic, lemon butter and breadcrumbs, so I pulled from the cellar this Sonoma Alexander Valley Chardonnay. There is good QPR - quality price ratio in this single vineyard designated label that can be found discounted in stores, perhaps due to availability from large production, and perhaps also because of its simpler lighter profile and character.

Our visits to Chateau St Jean have been highlights of several of our trips to Sonoma Valley wine country such as the feature of our 2009 visit on or winesite. It is the most authentic wine Chateau setting and experience in Sonoma. We know Chateau St Jean for their Chardonnays, dessert wines, and their well known flagship Cinq Cepage, 'five flavors' bordeaux varietal cabernet sauvignon blend, and their premium reserve label wines. This is one of a series of several labels of single vineyard designated Chardonnays from this producer.

Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Alexander Valley Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay 2012

Pale yellow colored, light bodied, lemon citrus and stone fruit tones give way to notes of pear and peach with nice balanced acidity on a tangy lemon laced smooth finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1568206

https://www.chateaustjean.com/

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Zinfandel Flight Anchors Family Dinner


Ridge Vertical and 1990 Vintage Horizontal Zinfandels Anchor Family Dinner

With son Alec visiting laying over on a cross country trip, the family gathered for a gala dinner to celebrate his return and his birthday. Son Ryan brought a highly rated Ridge Zinfandel, so I pulled from the cellar two vintage Zins from Alec's birthyear - two Howell Mountain labels from Ridge and Lamborn. This provided a vertical tasting of two Ridge vintages, and a horizontal tasting of two 1990 vintage labels.

Linda prepared her delectable beef tenderloin (shown right) with fried onions, twice baked potatoes, broccoli, and mac-n-cheese for the kids (and some adults (me)). Ryan brought a dinner salad and Erin brought a fruit plate. Before dinner included shrimp cocktail and afterwards we had a chocolate birthday cake and cupcakes.

We visited Lamborn Vineyards high atop Howell Mountain during our Napa Howell Mountain Wine Experience  back in 2008. I am not sure where Ridge sourced their Howell Mountain fruit for this label and find it conceivable that both these bottles were from the same source. Even at 27 years of age, they were very similar, almost identical, in condition and profile.

Ironically, the last time I tasted either of these wines, I drank them both together at the same time back in November, 2009.

Tonight, both the 1990 Ridge and Lamborn were garnet colored with a brownish rust hue and a bit of murkiness setting in - the predominant sign of diminution from aging. Both were clearly nearing the end of their drinking window, but were still holding their fruit. There were accents of leather and tobacco leaf but no funkiness that one might expect from wines this age. Setting the clarity and color aside, one might not know how old they were.

Both wines warranted a rating of 86 points. 

Lamborn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Howell Mountain Zinfandel 1990 

My last review of this Lamborn label was back in 2009 when I wrote, "Dark inky color with a tinge of separation on the rim... predominantly earthy, leathery, black bramble fruit accented with black pepper and an edge of creosote."


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=573684

Ridge California Howell Mountain Zinfandel 1990 

My last review of this wine was also back in 2009 when I wrote "Dark inly color - earthy leathery, black cherry and black berry fruits accented with black pepper and hint of black olive."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=69252

Ridge Vineyards "Lytton Springs" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2013

This recent release got rave reviews with a 95 and 92 point rating from Vinous and Robert Parker. Compared to the subdued aged fruit of the vintage Zins, this was over the top and almost overbearing, more suited to tangy bbq or rich foods than the beef tenderloin. This needs several years to settle and come together.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, rich concentrated forward black raspberry and blue bramble fruits accented by clove spice, Kirsch, floral, anise and hints of tangy oak (aged fourteen months in American Oak). There is 16% Petite Sirah in the blend and it is apparent in adding breadth and depth complexity and a backbone of a firm but not overbearing tannin finish.

This is a blend of 74% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 8% Carignan and 2% Mataro (Mourvèdre).

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1904753

This received 95 points from Vinous and 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.
RM 92 points.

Twice baked potatoes, mac-n-cheese, broccoli.

Sunday, March 26, 2017

Hazyblur Baroota Shiraz 2002

Hazyblur South Australia Baroota Shiraz 2002

Sunday afternoon in front of March Madness basketball, Linda prepared a hearty pizza and I pulled from the cellar a big bruising 'pizza wine', hazyblur South Australia Baroota Shiraz from 2002.

Last time we tasted this, two years ago, I wrote "its time to drink as this vintage release has entered the last phase of its drinking window, with the fruit taking on a more ripe raisiny character and the berry and plum flavors starting to give way to non fruit tones of leather, wood and smoke or tar."

Fortunately, this is drinking very nicely, still, and is showing some very nice floral aromatics to compliment the remaining fruits.

Taking into account the slight diminution of the fruits as described above, tonight this showed consistency with our last tasting which was in 2009.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, concentrated, nicely integrated ripe plum, blackberry and black currant fruits with tones of cedar, hints of leather, licorice and dark mocha with a slight bit of heat on the full firm lingering finish.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25284

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Rivea Restaurant Best Award Wine Cellar Tour

Rivea Restaurant Best Award Wine Cellar Tour

For our annual bootcamp and academy, to be followed by our international conference hosting over 20000 guests in Las Vegas, we held a gala reception at the Skyline Lounge and Rivea Restaurant atop the Delano Hotel / Mandalay Bay.

I took the opportunity to tour the magnificent Rivea wine cellar. There are so many extraordinary highly rated wine cellars in Las Vegas that each is overshadowed by the next. No less than 77 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence awarded winelist restaurants are in metro Las Vegas with 46 holding the prestigious Best of Award of Excellence. This ranks with the 78 in Los Angeles, 79 in San Francisco and 83 in Chicago.

An Award winning designation is a mark of distinction and such a wine cellar is one of the crown jewels of awarded restaurants. Of course, I'm a wine geek oenophile and I start with the wine list awards as a requisite criteria when I'm searching for a restaurant for a fine dining outing.

Rivea is the highly acclaimed Las Vegas restaurant, of international super-star chef Alain Ducasse, following his legendary venues in Saint-Tropez and London, with French and Italian influenced cuisine.

Rivea and the Skyline lounge sport direct express access via private elevator, a vibrant elegant, chic but laid back atmosphere, and arguably the best views of the Las Vegas skyline from high atop the Delano Hotel, hence the namesake Skyline Lounge.

The atmosphere controlled working showcase wine cellar adorns the interior wall of the main dining room. Its divided into three separate sections with appropriate temperature controls for whites, reds and special collectable selections. The wine collection and winelist features 8500 bottles of 1700 different label selections.

The high end prestigious labels is predominant with the best First Growth Bordeaux, Burgundy and premium and super premium California wines, as well as mid-tier labels and a selection of carefully chosen more modest entree level labels for those not wanting to part with a car or house payment for a bottle of wine.

The high end First Growth Bordeaux selections included the most expensive bottle on the list I found, Chateau Lafite Rothschild for $17000, several Chateau Mouton Rothschilds dating back to 1982, and an extensive selection of Chateau d'YQuem vintages (shown left).

Some of the other highlights include some of my favorite super second Bordeaux including a double magnum of Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1989 and several vintages of numerous other Bordeaux such as Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.
From California, they hold several of my favorite wines which I hold in my cellar including Clark Claudon and Dunn Vineyards from Howell Mountain and Napa Valley.

They also hold some imaginative selections such as the large format five liter Imperial of Washington State Columbia Valley La Sorella 1999 (shown right), and rare Sadie Family Columella Castro Bonae Spei Syrah from South Africa.

I was graciously hosted by Sommelier Matthew George, pictured, who works under the leadership of Wine Director Harley Carbery, who is also assisted by Sommeliers Coltin Short and Norman Acosta.

George, a Las Vegas native, has been working on his wine tradecraft for close to a dozen years. He's in pursuit of his Advanced Sommelier certification having passed parts of the certification exams in each of the last two years.

We enjoyed sharing numerous vintage reviews and tasting encounters, restaurant and cellar reviews, as well as wine stories such as our mutual acquaintance encounters with SOMM sommelier DLynn Proctor, global ambassador for Penfold's legendary Grange.

Watch for our wine dinner reviews of Rivea and plan an evening there for a notable wine dining experience. Tell them you read about them here!

https://www.delanolasvegas.com/en/restaurants/rivea.html

Delano Hotel Las Vegas Skyline Lounge
and Rivea Restaurant

One of three cellar compartments

Chateau Leoville Las Cases
Double Magnum


Thursday, March 16, 2017

Baus Family Vineyards Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Baus Family Vineyards Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2014

Seconded to Las Vegas for a week of bootcamp, I picked up this Sonoma County California Cabernet to take back to the hotel for dinner with carry out bbq ribs. This was a pleasant surprise exceeding my expectations for a every day 'pizza wine' picked up at an off-strip liquor store. It actually was a good value QPR at under $20 and was ideal for the occasion.

Baus Family Vineyards must be an independent grower who sells bulk grapes to producers. According to the rear label, this is vinted and bottled by Great Domains and Estates in Hopland, CA. Hopland is a small rural town further north in Mendocino County on the Russian River, southeast of Ukiah.

This was dark ruby colored, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, moderately firm structure, aromatic rich blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by spicy clove and hints of oak with moderate tannins on a smooth long finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2462044

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2267570




Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Edna Valley Vineyards Central Coast Chardonnay 2014

Edna Valley Vineyards Central Coast Chardonnay 2014


For a casual team dinner outing at Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville, Las Vegas, we ordered this pleasant easy drinking Chardonnay that complemented our seafood plates and salad entrees.

Edna Valley sits five miles inland from the Pacific Ocean in the Central Coast roughly midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles.

This entry level label is a blend of fruit from vineyards in Monterey County in the North and from the Edna Valley estate vineyards near San Luis Obispo in the South Central Coast regions, (shown on the rear label above).

The diversity of fruit results in a moderately complex full flavored Chardonnay with a range of flavors that come together in a nicely integrated and balanced blend.

Good value, high QPR in this pleasant easy drinking sipper that is complex enough to accompany a light dinner.

Bright yellow-golden colored, light-medium bodied with full mouthfeel, rich tangy acidity from lemon citrus tones accented by tropical fruits, notes of pear and white peach with hints of green apple, pineapple and brown spices.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2304244

Monday, March 13, 2017

Bedell Cellars First Crush Red Wine 2014

Bedell Cellars 'First Crush' Red Wine 2014

I first discovered Bedell Cellars during my visit to the North Fork Long Island, New York winery/cellar visits in the early winter of 2001. At the time, my cellar notes record that I tasted their Bordeaux varietal wines, 1997 Beddell Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and their 1999 vintage Chardonnay and Chardonnay Reserve.

We then tasted Bedell Cellars wines at Murray's Cheese Restaurant and wine bar on Bleeker Street in the Greenwich Village, one of Son Alec's favorite eateries in the City. Again, we tasted Bedell Bordeaux varietal wines there based on Cabernet Franc.

What a fun surprise to find this Bedell Cellars artist series Bordeaux varietal release in our local wine shop, Sav-Way in nearby Hinsdale, IL. I must admit, were it not for the catchy artsy Artist Series label, I may have missed it.

Bedell Cellars are the namesake winery and vineyards of founders Kip & Susan Bedell who planted their first grapevines on their acquired fifty acre former potato farm on eastern Long Island back in 1980. Kip's passion and dedicated work over the next two decades earned him the moniker ”Mr. Merlot” in Wine Spectator magazine.

Bedell cellars was bought in 2000 by Michael Lynne, a New York film executive and art collector. Continued investment in the property and brand propelled Bedell to one of the benchmark wineries in the eastern US producing the best wines of the Long Island appellation.

The acquisition of Bedell allowed Michael to combine lifelong passion for wine and food with his love of the theater, film and art. A graduate of Columbia Law School, he leads an entertainment law firm with a long running association with New Line Cinema one of the world's most successful independent film companies. Today he is Principal of Unique Features, a film production company and an esteemed contemporary art collector and Trustee of New York’s Museum of Modern Art.

That convergence of his love of art and wine are manifested in the Bedell Artist Series featuring specially commissioned works by world renowned contemporary artists on the labels of special release wines.

This label, Bedell Cellars First Crush Red Wine features the artwork of  Mickalene Thomas, an internationally renowned artist and filmmaker. Her work explores the intricacies of female beauty through painting and collage. Her installation 'Better Days' was featured at Art Basel and her documentary, 'Happy Birthday to a Beautiful Woman' premiered on HBO. She painted the official portrait of First Lady Michelle Obama for the Smithsonian Portrait Gallery.

For Bedell's First Crush labels Mickalene selected a collage from her 2014 series, Tête de Femme, portraying abstracted female faces constructed from abstracted geometric cutouts. In this work, Mickalene combines art-historical, political, and pop-cultural references to comment on notions of beauty and gender in the 21st century.

Is it coincidence or inspired that this label has similar design and color schemes of this legendary premium Italian label? In any event its a fun and interesting comparison in style and design between Mickalene Thomas' work and the Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT Italian Sangiovese.


First Crush is a red blend of young vine Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Franc (25%) fruits, aged in stainless steel. Dark garnet colored with purple hues, it is medium light bodied with initial aromas of damp wood, leather and dusty rose petals, gripping tannins are pervasive from the initial bright vibrant red berry and cranberry fruits through to the layer of spice, dusty rose and cedar with tones of green bell pepper and tangy black cherries on the lingering finish. The tangy notes of the fruit may be attributable to the youthful vines. The finishing floral aromatics are more desirable than the opening.

The bright tangy fruits go better with forward moderately spiced food.

At the release price of $30 there are better values out there, but at the 'street price' below $20, this provides good value QPR - quality price ratio. 

RM 87 points. Wine Enthusiast gave this 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2212217

https://store.bedellcellars.com/product/BEDELL-2014-FIRST-CRUSH-RED


Sunday, March 12, 2017

Storypoint Vineyards California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Storypoint Vineyards California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

For a day outing, taking my folks out for dinner, we traveled to Cedar Lake, Indiana to dine at the Lighthouse Restaurant overlooking the lake. We were hoping to take a nice bottle of wine but Indiana's repressive liquor laws prohibit BYOB. We were pleased to fine suitable wine selections by the bottle and WBTG (by the glass) from their limited but carefully selected wine list. 

This was our first visit to the Lighthouse and it exceeded our expectations in every way. The venue, food, service, atmosphere and overall hospitality were fabulous. I was expecting a small dark cottage from the 40's or 50's. Instead, Lighthouse is bright, vibrant, trendy, quaint and modern, all at the same time. The bar and the hostess' desk are both constructed from the hull of old classic double plank boats. There are dining rooms that are intimate and others bright and airy with large windows offering wonderful panoramic views of the lake. The menu was expansive, the food very good, and the service was extraordinary. 

Keith and Linda has filets of beef, mom had bbq ribs and I had the macadamia crusted Canadian Walleye. All our entrees and sides were very good - carefully prepared, served hot, with appropriate portions. The Walleye was a large portion, heavily encrusted with toasted macadamia nut, served with a tasty beau blanc sauce.  

For wine selections we ordered by the glass Kendall Jackson Sonoma County Chardonnay and Storypoint Vineyards California Cabernet Sauvignon. Both were ideal accompaniments to the food and were fairly priced with appropriate pours. 

Storypoint Vineyards California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

I have never heard of this label and was skeptical since it is a 'California' selection, meaning the fruit is sourced from a variety of locations across the state, as opposed to being from one appellation or even region. Often such wines are bulk wines, from fruit sourced from growers who sell grapes or even bulk wine as a commodity. Or, such wines are a melange, comprised of fruit from a disparate sources resulting in non-descript wines lacking character or style since they lack any sense of terroir or sense of place. 

What a pleasant surprise, while this wine is comprised of grapes from vineyards in the Red Hills AVA of Lake County, the Paso Robles AVA in San Luis Obispo County and the Lodi AVA in San Joaquin County, it is an Estate wine, meaning the grapes are all from producer owned vineyards. The producer's notes cite the integration of flavors from each region. They succeeded as the result is a wine that is well crafted, very flavorful, nicely balanced, even bordering on being polished. 

Dark garnet colored, bold, rich, full-bodied, aromatic, complex bright, nicely integrated dark berry fruits accented with tones of mocha chocolate, spice, hints of nutmeg and vanilla, ending with savory moderate tannins.

Perhaps explaining its harmonious complexity, different sources attribute this to be a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, Malbec, Petit Sirah and Cabernet Franc.

RM 90 points.

The winemaker is Sonoma County native Aaron Piotter who has been crafting wines for more than two decades. As their website attests, "Storypoint is a new project in which Aaron releases any restraints of traditional AVA’s, allowing him to express one singular vision: to make interesting wines regardless of their boundaries." 

'A graduate of the University of California at Davis Viticulture & Enology program, Aaron has made wine from all over California, including ZD and Ferrari Carano. Using this knowledge, he plots out a course each vintage to create the layered, complex wines of Storypoint."

Well done, indeed! He has done a remarkable job in this enjoyable, sophisticated but easy drinking wine that offers very great QPR - (quality-price ratio). 

Part of this value is that a 'non-appellation specific' wine avoids or lacks all the cache or snobbery of any particular area, hence not commanding a higher price-point for such wines. Over time, as the brand becomes more established and better known, with consistency and continued high achievement, prices of Storypoint wines may well escalate. Grab them while you can, if you can find them! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2386243

http://www.storypointvineyards.com/index.html

More of Lighthouse Restaurant, Cedar Lake, IN ....







Saturday, March 11, 2017

Papillon and Legende at Indigo Springfield


Papillon and Legende at Indigo Springfield

Visiting valued client in Springfield (IL), the account team dined at Indigo Restaurant. Following our tasting of Clio last month, I took another big bold expressive wine, BYOB, Orin Swift Papillon Bordeaux Blend which we matched up against Barons de Rothschild Légende from the wine list to accompany our beef steak dinners.

Indigo with their whimsical fun Blue Dog gallery offers a nice atmosphere for a business dinner, a special occasion or intimate dinner date. As always, the Indigo staff were professional, proficient, accommodating and attentive. The steaks were done to perfection and this evening they served an imaginative gorgonzola laced roasted potatoes accompaniment. The sushi entree left something to be desired and should be avoided in favor of their traditional midwestern faire.

Papillion is a Bordeaux Proprietary Blend from Dave Phinney, of Orin Swift Cellars, producer of a range of imaginative and bold wines that showcase the range and diversity of the best of Napa Valley wines.  Orin Swift perhaps is best known for The Prisoner series of wines which he sold a few years ago. He now focuses on and produces his higher end selections including this bold but polished red blend. 

David Swift Phinney began his wine journey back in 1995 when he traveled to Florence, Italy and discovered and got hooked on wine. After university graduation in 1997 he worked as as temporary harvest worker at Robert Mondavi Winery.  Setting out on his own, in 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars named for his father’s middle name Orin and his mother’s maiden name Swift. He spent his early years making wines for others and developing a line of Zinfandel based wines under his own label from fruit sourced from others. 

I've written about how Phinny is one of the more fascinating studies in wine branding. In his Orin Swift line, he shows why he is known for and recognized by his imaginative, creative, if not mysterious, even weird branding with his artistic naming and labeling of his wines. His line-up reads more like a series of mystery novels than a flight of fine wines - Abstract, China Doll, Mannequin, Machete, Mercury Head, Mute, Palermo, Papillon, Slander, Trigger Finger, and Veladora.

Mercury Head is his premium label Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and simply features a US mint original Mercury Head dime affixed to the bottle in place of a label. I've written in these pages about Machete with its series of labels with a dozen different photos of a mysterious woman brandishing a machete in various poses, many featuring a vintage Cadillac Eldorado.

Papillon features on the label (pictured) an image of third generation grape grower Vince Tofanelli's hands taken by the producer's friend and world famous photographer Greg Gorman. 

Papillon is a classic Bordeaux blend, Papillon features all the Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, the heavy weight weighs in at 15.1% alcohol. The grapes are sourced from Napa Valleys sub-appellations Oakville, Rutherford, and Howell Mountain, from top vineyards such as Stagecoach and Morisoli.

Robert Parker gave the 2013 release 95 points and this 2014 wine 94 points and noted "forest floor, graphite, blackcurrant, blackberry fruit and spring flowers with a full-bodied, unctuously textured, deep, rich pure wine".

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, bold, powerful, concentrated, almost jammy with rich black fruits tones - blackberry, black raspberry, hint of black cherry, with a layer of anise, dusty cedar, hints of graphite, mocha and loamy earth with firm textured tannins on a long lingering finish. This probably needs a couple years to settle and will be interesting to watch it age over the next decade.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2292084

http://www.orinswift.com/Papillon


Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) St. Émilion Légende 2013

Légende is a second label from the legendary Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) producer. Of course they're best known for their classic 'first growth' Chateau Lafite Rothschild. But they also produce a wide range of more than a dozen labels for the wider general marketplace consumer - most from across the Bordeaux region.

The Legende family of wines includes more everyday selections from Bordeaux, one blend from the Bordeaux region, two from the left bank Medoc and Pauillac appellations, and this right bank offering from the St. Émilion appellation.

This 2013 may not be a fair representation of the label since it was one of the most difficult weather condition vintages in three decades. A wet spring, two hail storms in July and August that damaged the grape vines, followed by intermittent rains leading up to the harvest made the weather condition among the worst since the frost of 1991.

The challenging conditions of the 2013 season required meticulous work in the vineyards and very strict selection in the winery to produce this release which they considered an over-achievement under the circumstances rendering what they referred to as supple, with a gentle, crisp structure.

This was dark ruby colored, light-medium bodied, somewhat austere with delicate subdued black currant and raspberry fruits with a layer of pain grillé (toast), with hints of floral, tangy spice, smoke, tobacco leaf and leather.  In the style of the 'right bank', this is a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2613407

http://www.lafite.com/en/the-collection/legende/the-wines/legende-saint-emilion/

 http://www.indigocuisine.com/