Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cab 1997

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cab (1997) for early gratification, longevity, sophisticated drinking, yet value.

We've been fans of Robert Craig since his inaugural release back in 93-94, as witnessed by the fact he has no less than 26 mentions in these pages. We hosted Robert and Lynn Craig at several of our wine producer dinners back in the nineties and thereafter and we've attended several private tastings (below) and release or harvest parties (left) at the Craig estate high atop Howell Mountain.

Robert is a master craftsman of Napa Valley Cabernets with distinct designated label bottlings from Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, Mt Veeder and Mt George, the four corners of Napa Valley. And then there is Affinity, his signature blend of Napa Cab that he calls 'three mountains and a valley' when referring to the source sites. I seem to recall our first meeting with him was at a winery up on Atlas Peak.

Robert has said that Mt Veeder is his favorite, perhaps revealing his sentimentality to his heritage that he started up there. My favorite was always Howell Mountain, however with their release of Spring Mountain Cabernet, its vied for being my favorite. 

Often such a blend is the flagship premium label for a producer, but Robert takes pride in this label holding the price point to be more affordable, well below his premium appellation specific designated labels, while at the same time crafting a wine approachable for early drinking gratification.

Tasting w/ Robert Craig at the estate
high atop Howell Mountain

So it is that its amazing and rewarding that such a wine also demonstrates stamina and grace for aging as this eighteen year old 1997 vintage release shows. We still hold a half case of this highly lauded vintage noted for its longevity. Indeed, my records show we still hold an Affinity vertical of no less than seventeen vintages going back to the inaugural release of 1993. including this '97 which we obtained up release!

Don't confuse that fact that while Robert Craig specializes in several labels of Cabernet designated as sourced from different appellations, that Affinity is a blend of different Cabernets, while Craig's Cabernets are notably Cabernet, this Affinity blend is also a Bordeaux style blend with 82% Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with 15% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc.

Such is the backdrop when I pulled a bottle from the cellar to accompany Linda's pasta and Italian sausage and pepper dish. The '97 not only paired well but still shows vibrancy and resiliency at this stage of life. While it likely will not improve further with age, it seems to still stand at the apex of its drinking window and shows no sign of diminution whatsoever.

My previous tasting note back in 2012 cited 'this wine is more expressive than early in life showing lingering fruit and staying power'. According to those notes, this showed even better tonight with more balance and polish than that tasting. At this stage of life, that could be an indication of bottle variation but no so likely since the bottles share the same provenance.

 Dark purple garnet colored, medium bodied, forward bright vibrant black berry and black raspberry fruits with a layer of cedar, tones of black tea and hints of cassis and smoke on a smooth moderate lingering tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=29715

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

Gala celebration dinner features Phelps Backus - Insignia Napa Cabernets

Gala celebration dinner features Phelps Backus and Insignia Napa Cabernets - a 'once (or twice) in a lifetime' tasting flight!

I've written often in these pages about various and customary investment strategies for building a wine cellar. Pick a varietal, a region/appellation profile that you like, determine key vintages that reflect the best of that wine, and pick key vintages you wish to commemorate for birth or anniversary years or other special occasions, all according to an acceptable budget. The result should be a selection of wines for all occasions - every day wines, once a week and once a month wines, and once a year or once in a lifetime special occasion wines.

Saturday was one of those special occasions warranting special wines... Attending Dr Dan's daughter Hillary's wedding, he gathered and served two very special wines for our reception dinner - Joseph Phelps Bachus and Phelps Insignia, from various vintages, showcase highlights from Dan's cellar collection.

Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Oakville Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

You know its a special wine when each bottle label has its own serial number. This is the premier selection of the Joseph Phelps collection.

This 2005 release tasting was a bit closed and tight, at ten years old this has many years of life yet and may not even have reached its peak drinking window.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, smooth polished nicely balanced black berry and black raspberry fruits, tones of anise and cedar turning to a hints of dark mocha on the long lingering silky smooth tannin finish.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 24 months in new oak.

Tasted alongside several Insignias its hard to pick a favorite. More on that below as we parsed the various vintages of Insignia.


Joseph Phelps Insignia vertical selection/collection - 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

What a treat to parse these different vintages. While the venue didn't allow for a technical tasting, since the bottles were dispersed across the select tables, and brought out serially by the servers, the selection of the flight was extraordinary and a very special treat indeed. And being a gala celebration, it didn't allow for discrimination of one glass to the next, hence, I won't endeavor to try to handicap or comment on each vintage, rather some comments and remembrance notes.

While Backus may be the ultra-premium label, Insignia is the flagship of the Joseph Phelps brand. It is a Cabernet based blend of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with highlights of Bordeaux varietals and an occasional Malbec, that vary from vintage to vintage. Annual production is around a thousand cases plus.

Phelps Insignia 2008
rear label

Phelps Insignia 2010
rear label

As I review my photo's of the labels. which is a great way to capture the tasting flight order, I note that the while the rear labels of Insignia cites the blend for that vintage, it does not reference the vintage (shown left)! What a shame since its impossible to match the blend to the vintage unless one pairs the photo of the front label with the rear label.

I cant imagine why they do this and find it hard to believe it is done on purpose, as much as I find it hard to believe that it is an oversight, being the flagship of such a sophisticated label, with so many years history. Frankly, its unfortunate and bit irritating when trying to recreate a tasting experience and learn from and critically review the various vintage reflections.

We started with the 2006 and that set a benchmark for the evening. Moving to the 2008, Bill cited that as his preference, while I favored the 2004. The '06 was tight and a bit closed while the '08 came across as more approachable and open.

More approachable still was the '04 which was not as firm, bold or concentrated, but tended to have more sweet tones which I tend to favor. Linda liked the more approachable '04 as well. Then the '10 was presented and it seemed to eclipse all the others in a symphony of refined polished perfectly balanced flavors.

Tonight's experience was consistent with my earlier tasting notes for this (2004) release: Dark ruby and inky purple color, full bodied, this required about an hour to open and reveal its true character and fruits - complex but elegant and polished rich deep concentrated notes of blackberries, cassis, with hints of rich, crème caramel, sweet oak and cedar with smooth polished finely integrated tannins on the long finish.

My photo log indicates we tasted the '07 in the series and I admit I don't have recollection or reflection on that release. Imagine that! Since it doesn't stand out one way or the other, then the fact is it was fine refined quality drinking and fit the occasion. 

All the releases showcased classic Insignia characteristics - complex concentrated full bodied jammy black berry, black raspberry and plum fruits with full gripping but smooth polished tannins on long lingering silky finishes.

Thanks, Danny for sharing a splendid flight - the best of the best ... from your cellar with us pour boys wine aficionados! I'd be remiss to not post a picture of our host, the father of the bride!

Daglia Canyon Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Daglia Canyon Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

The 2013 Napa Valley Cabernets are starting to arrive in and through distribution to your/our local wine shops. It was a ideal growing season and the wines should be very good. As one of our favorite producers said about an earlier similar vintage, 'if you can't produce good wine in this vintage you should be doing something different'. In great vintage years such as this, we consumers can benefit from the simple point that even the lesser wines, or second or lower labels of the key producers are potentially great wines. In such vintages, the difference between the top label and lesser labels often is miniscule, such that there is great value in the lesser labels.

So it was that I went into a wine shop to pick up a bottle of wine for dinner on the road, I could pick from lesser labels or modest price points and realistically seek a nice enjoyable wine. In the last couple days, I have had such a two other such wines that were a benchmark for tonight's selection. My benchmark for tonight's selection was the 2013 B-Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. On the recommendation of two different wine advisors at Total Wine in suburban Minneapolis, I chose from several similar wine recommendations. From those choices I picked this wine. Full disclosure, this is a 'Winery Direct' where this is sourced directly from the producer by this large multi-regional wine superstore retailer.

Having selected this wine, I sought and received a consensus recommendation on carry out dinner, ribs from Rib Shack in nearby suburban Burnley, MN, halfway between the wineshop and my hotel.

Daglia Canyon Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Crafted by winemaker David Elliot, this is not a wimpy wine for the feint of heart in any respect! This demands some food, hearty cheese or dark chocolate. As such it was great with the grilled bbq ribs I picked up carry out to enjoy with this back at the hotel. Dark inky blackish garnet colored, full bodied, tightly wound concentrated blackberry fruit overtaken by and accented by a layer of creosote and leather giving way to firm gripping tannins on the long finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1984240

B-Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at Mécénat Bistro

B-Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 at Mécénat Bistro in Western Springs

For an impromptu weeknight family dinner outing, I got off the Metra train at the Western Springs station, near the kid's house and walked across the street to Mécénat Bistro & Wine Store. Linda and daughter Erin joined me with the grandkids for al fresco dinner. The kids love watching the trains which are frequent during the rush hour, sometimes double or triple at a time on the triple tracks. This made for a great family fun-filled dinner outing, enjoyed by grand-kids and grandparents alike.

Unfortunately it wasn't Wednesday when they offer 1/2 off Wine Bottles $50 and under (bottles over $50 are $25 off per bottle), never-the-less we selected this B Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 -B-T-G - By-The-Glass.

I've had earlier vintages of this wine, but as I wrote in these pages recently, the 2013 Napa Valley vintage is so good that lesser labels or otherwise more modest wines are great drinking, and offer great QPR (Quality Price Ratio) values.

According to the B Side winemaker's notes, "Winemakers have heralded the 2013 harvest’s outstanding quality, using words like “early, even and excellent” to describe this year’s growing season." This B Side is such an offering. It was great with our dinner and should be a must buy for every day quality drinking Cabernet.

The branding and name "B Side" are a play on words that refer to the "flip-side" (as in the 'B' Side of an old vinyl record - hence the recording tape on the label) of Napa Valley. Their website speaks of the 'B Side' - "In the early 1950s record companies introduced the two-sided 45. The "A" side played the song the record companies hoped would become a hit. But the "B" side was often the real find, frequently revealing an undiscovered gem."

So the metaphor for wine finds refers to the B Side or flip side of Napa Valley as in the rural areas and rolling hills along the eastern edge of the valley, vineyards that are just a few miles from the glamorous, high-priced wineries featured along Highway 29. The eastern side of Napa Valley includes areas such as Pope Valley, Chiles Valley, Wooden Valley, Stags Leap District and lower Calistoga. Vines in these areas are grown in thin volcanic soils, which yield smaller, more concentrated fruit.

When I was in Minneapolis last week and went out to select a bottle for dinner, this was my benchmark find and, indeed, Total Wine had it for just $18 per bottle. Had I not faced the TSA embargo for carrying liquids in carry-on luggage, I would've grabbed several to bring home. Meanwhile I opted to try a new and unique selection I could not otherwise get here in the Chicago market.

This 2013 B Side Red is a somewhat unique blend of five different Napa Valley varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Set aside the Malbec and this is a Bordeaux Blend.

Dark garnet purple color, medium to full bodied, full bore, forward concentrated blackberry, black cherry and black currant fruits with  tones of herbs, coffee and toasty oak with hints of vanilla, turning to smooth silky gripping tannins on the finish. This drinks like a $45 wine for half the price.

RM 91 points. 

The Blend: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 14% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc

The producer's notes say the Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from "Oak Knoll, Chiles Valley and Napa Valley, creating a harmony of fruitier favors from longer hang time and sun exposure with dark color, tannins and depth. The balance of the varieties, from lakeside vineyards, add softness and complexity to the wine. Grown just north of Mount George in the rolling valleys between Napa and Suisun Valley, the Merlot and Malbec contribute fruity richness attributed to good elevation, while a small percentage of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot add depth, color and structure."

This is a fun and unique blend that brings everything together hitting on all cylinders in this great vintage year!

http://www.mecenatbistro.com/

http://bsidewines.com/ 
  

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

I have written often in these pages about the negociant practice and Ninety Plus Cellars. When they get it right, they offer great wines of outstanding value. This unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah appears to be such a find. Babysitting for the grandkids offered the opportunity to sample this from son Ryan's cellar, a selection he picked up earlier in the day at Vin Chicago, who featured this in their weekly tasting. It was immediately apparent this is one of those rare high QPR exciting quality wines. 

According to Cellartracker, this is the third release of this wine under this label. We've reported that the Lot 95 designation refers to the source supplier of this wine to the negociant 90+ Cellars. This ranks up there with 90+ Lot 101 that we enjoyed so much that I wrote about in several blogposts. 

Also, this is an indication of the quality of the 2013 Napa Valley Cabernets which are appearing in the marketplace and are presenting themselves as great wines at great values. 

According to the supplier, this offbeat blend comes from a small winery whose wines regularly achieve scores in the mid-90s. They were able to obtain several barrels from what they call 'this superstar producer'. They cite the reference 'source price', the applicable price of the original Cuvée under its original brand and label from the producer at $75. In any event its a great find at their release price of $30. Vin Chicago is offering it at $24. I'll be heading over to pick up a case. Good news that the label indicates 600 cases being available.

90+ Cellars "Lot 95 - Super Cuvee" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Sirah 2013

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, the concentrated blackberry, black currant and plum fruits are accented with a layer of expresso and tar, with hints of vanilla, cedar and anise. Supplier notes sum it well citing, "firm and intense yet well rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of black cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth, velvety finish".


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2185244

Cityscape Syrah Zin BBQ Ribs Wine Dinner 2015

2015 Cityscape Wine on the deck Features Syrah Zinfandel with BBQ Ribs Dinner

Our 'pour boys' wine group dinner was hosted by Lyle and Terry for their third wine night on the deck with cityscape views.

The theme for the evening was set for Syrah and Zinfandel to accompany their bar-b-cue rib dinner preparation. Their west loop residence features an extraordinary deck with cityscape views of the Willis (Sears) Tower (looming in background as shown left) and the west loop neighborhood.

The spectacular mid-September evening provided a perfect clear cloudless sky and comfortable evening. This was a replay of the success of last years event of the same theme. As usual, like the previous two years, Terry and prepared an wonderful dinner ideally suited for the wine theme - bar-b-cue ribs, potatoes, green beans, salad, cornbread, corn, followed by home-made profiteroles with ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces.

Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, shrimp, grilled scallops, dips, nuts and olive trays. These complimented several champagne, sparkling and other white wine selections.

The main dinner wine flight ... (pictured below):

 

As usual we went through our ritual of placing the flight tasting order based on the anticipated weight, sweetness and complexity of the wines. Once set, the wines are opened and tasted to calibrate their appropriate tasting order. For me, this is almost the highlight of such evenings, determining the tasting order, but also testing knowledge and perceptions of the wines and vintages and their respective tasting profiles. As usual we had the basic order generally correct, but made a few modifications based on the tasting results. Shown above is the original expected order. 

Surprisingly, as a result of the tasting, the Killikanoon Oracle moved to the farthest right most position - signifying it as being the biggest and most complex wine, subsequently to be tasted last, so as to overpower a 'lesser' (lighter, less complex) wine. This was remarkable considering the previous tasting experiences of the other four 'big syrahs'.

Surprisingly, the Chateau Tanunda 100 year old vines Shiraz moved a couple places to the left although it compared favorably with the others. 

The wine flight in tasting order:

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet 1999

Niner Wine Estate Boot Jack Ranch Paso Robles Syrah 2006

Robert Biale Black Chicken Napa Valley Zinfandel 2011

Regusci Napa Valley Stags Leap District Zinfandel 2010

Outpost Napa Valley Howell Mountain Zinfandel 2012

The Big Shiraz flight ...

Two Hands  Bella's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2012

Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

Clarendon Hills  Astralas Shiraz 2007

Clarendon Hills Piggot Ranges Shiraz 2004 

Killikanoon Clare Valley Oracle Shiraz 2004

And after dinner with dessert and for casual sipping:

Antoine Alard Chateau Theulet Monbazzilac 1998
Chateau Breustet Saunterne Bordeaux 2001
Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000

The Zinfandel flight also included the Niner Paso Robles Syrah which exhibited a profile more aligned with those wines. The Regusci and Biale compared similarly while, not surprisingly, the Outpost stood out with its Howell Mountain terroir showing bigger forward mountain fruit with that classic bramble tight firmness with a creosote anise layer. 

The standout of the evening for me was the Killikanoon Oracle, which I expected to show well as it is one of my favorite wines. It showed dark inky purple, intense, rich, thick, full bodied, forward fruit of blueberry, ripe plum and blackberry, violet floral, and a hint of anise on the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=234312

Big Aussie Syrah flight ...

I brought the Oracle to compare in a mini-horizontal 2004 against the Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Clarendon Syrah which I expected to mirror the profile but perhaps exhibit even bigger, more forward firm concentrated fruits, which it did, but less so than the Oracle.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=153424

The Piggot Range exhibited a rich dark purple color, full bodied, and full smooth polished aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberry, blueberries and smoked meat with notes of spice and floral elements with hints of oak with nicely integrated silky tannins on the lingering finish. It was more lean than the full throttle thick rich version I tasted a couple vintages back. It's certainly ready to drink, and doesn't appear it will improve any with age.. probably certainly at its apex and needs to be consumed .. but I'd say no need to hurry .. has a couple years left ....

Dan brought the ultra-premium Clarendon Hills Astralis also provided an interesting comparison between the two Clarendon Hills' labels since they no doubt contain fruit sourced from the same sites.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=94812

Ernie brought Chateau Tanunda from his cellar. I've written herein about us capturing nine OWC three packs of this wine - the entire allocation of this wine for midwest America during the Wine Spectator Grand Tour a few years ago. This wine continues to be a staple of our big syrah tastings that we all enjoy. 

Chateau Tanunda "The Chateau" 100 Year Old Vines Eden Valley Barossa Shiraz

We discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill. Only 100 cases were produced. We orchestrated a purchase of nine three packs in OWC's (shown below) which we split amongst the 'pour boys' wine team, pictured below.

The Barossa is home to some of the world’s oldest Shiraz vines and the grapes for this wine come from hundred year old vines from a high altitude, one acre single vineyard in the Eden Valley.

The 'pour boys' sighted at WS
Grand Tour

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of licorice, plum, spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000

 

Lyle was concerned that his beloved Grahams Vintage Port 1991 was diminished and entering the later stage of its drinking window. He acquired a case of this wine and has been enjoying it over the decades but was concerned about its recent change in its profile. The consensus of the group was that is was fine, aging normally and gracefully, simply showing it natural aging maturation. We're all getting older! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21593

Taken Napa Valley Red Wine Blend 2013

Taken Napa Valley Red Wine Blend 2013

After finding and tasting this wine out on the East Coast a couple times, I was surprised to find this new vintage release at the corner grocery store. Planning a stormy evening in at home with some bar-b-cue ribs, I ran out to fetch a bottle to taste this wine I saw in the store earlier in the week whilst shopping.

I wrote in earlier blog posts about discovering this wine out east, and then finding end of bin release at a local big box store. So I was interested to try this new vintage release especially with bbq rib dinner.

Taken Napa Valley Red Wine Blend 2013

Like the previous two releases I had, the 2012 and the 2011, this is also packaged in an oversize heavy bottle with an oversize 'punt'. In fact the punt is the largest I think I've ever seen in any wine at any level. This is a good value at $25. The 2012 was a great value at $30. I am not driven to run out and buy more at $30 for this release, despite the fact I see it offered at $39 from several merchants.

Like the previous vintages, this exhibited dark purple color and medium to full body. I had high expectations for the 2013 release given the vintage notes and the initial impression of color and body. It ended there as the fruit was a bit subdued and disjointed lacking cohesion or balance. The winemaker notes cite the purple hue and speaks to crushed graphite and expresso notes, both which I found to overtake the muted black and blue berry fruit notes, the graphite on the front and the expresso on the midpalate. They speak further about the higher than normal yields at the harvest which I equate with somewhat flabby and less then concentrated fruits. The high expectations unfortunately climaxed with the packaging and the deep rich color. We saved half the bottle so we'll see how it fares tomorrow.

RM 88 points.

This is a blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot sourced from the Napa Valley appellation. I think of Napa as being a region consisting of more than a dozen AVA appellations. Citing Napa could indicate fruit sourced from throughout the region.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2151547

http://takenwine.com/wine-type/taken/

Wine Spectator gives this 90 points




 

Del Dotto Giovannis Tuscan Reserve Angelis Italian

Del Dotto Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997 BYOB at Angeli's Italian

For a holiday weekend Sunday night late dinner at Angeli's Italian, our local neighborhood trattoria, we took this 'Cal-Ital' 'Tuscan Reserve' from Del Dotto Vineyards BYOB. At eighteen years of age, this Napa Valley Blend is showing its age but still holding its own for pleasurable drinking matched with food.

Readers of this blog know we don't collect or drink very many Italian wines. This 'Cal-Ital' (California wine based on Sangiovese, a Italian varietal grape) is one our staples in the cellar for taking to our local Italian diner for Italian eating. It was a nice complement to Linda's bruschetta and my Veal Pesto special, and the chocolate and seasalt caramel gelato after dinner.

Del Dotto Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997

Named for Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto's #1 son, Giovanni,  this is a limited release blend of Sangiovese, and lesser amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

This is one of the last bottles of a case we obtained on release back in the late nineties. Consistent with earlier tasting notes ... medium bodied - dark blackish ruby color starting to take on a slightly brownish rust color at the rim; aromatics of black berry and woody cedar with a tone of creosote/tar and a slight earthy funkiness showing its age, eventually giving way to slightly tart black cherry fruit with tones of leather and hints of dark chocolate and spice turning to moderate silky tannins on a pleasant lingering finish of soft oak.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=35492

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

http://www.angeliscatering.com/

Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain District Merlot 2010

Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain District Merlot 2010

Invited to a family celebration dinner noting Lucy's first day of (pre) school, I stopped and picked this up at the Prestige Countryside Wineshop enroute from the train station to accompany the grilled rib and steak dinner.

We've passed by Barnett Vineyards high atop Spring Mountain up above St Helena but have not visited there.

Home to some of our favorite producers, Spring Mountain District may be our favorite area for producing quality Bordeaux varietal wines. We hold Spring Mountain Cabernets and Merlots from Fantesca, Paloma, Pride, Robert Craig and Keenan, to name a few. Recall Paloma Merlot was Wine Spectator's Wine of the year back around the milenium. We still hold a half dozen bottles of Paloma and some prized bottles of Mailbox Vineyard Reserve Merlot from Keenan which we've gifted to and served with friends Jim and Monica Keenan. 

Barnett have been producing Estate and single vineyard designated wines sourced from their steep hilltop vineyards since 1989, most notably, Cabernet Sauvignon and lesser quantities of Merlot. They also produce limited quantities of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc sourced from other select appellations. We've had their Napa Valley Sleepy Hollow Pinot and their Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, which interestingly also shows the pencil drawing of the Napa Valley Estate (below) on the label, in accordance with marketing and branding conventions.  

Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain District Merlot 2010

We may have drinken this too young but it was good to find a five year old at the Prestige Liquors Countryside wine store near the kids' house.

This was a perfect accompaniment to the grilled beef steak, grilled ribs and sweet corn.

Dark garnet/purple color, medium to full bodied, somewhat subdued black raspberry and blackberry fruits give way to tones of dark mocha and hints of vanilla, leather and tobacco leaf, turning to smooth dusty tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1449210

http://www.barnettvineyards.com/

 

Neiman Cellars Napa Red Caldwell Vineyard BYOB at Eyrie

Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley 2001 BYOB at Eyrie Restaurant

After presiding over a public tour including friends and family at the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in Oak Park, we did a walking tour of the historic district viewing several of Wrights iconic buildings, ending at Eyrie Restaurant, the culinary school learning center of Robert Morris College.

Being wine centered in our dining choices, this was an opportunity to pull a prized bottle from our cellar since BYOB is the standard at Eyrie. To accompany dinner we brought a Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley 2001.

Part of the fun and logic of this selection was that when we last dined at Eyrie back in May, following another Frank Lloyd Wright event, we took a Neiman Cellars Napa Valley Red Blend 2004 which was sensational with our dinner that evening.  

Unlike our previous dining experience there, a visiting chef's feature evening, tonight was a bit of a challenge. Considering the entree selections, I inquired about the Ancho Chili Rubbed Hanger Steak, concerned that the chili would be spicy and offsetting or overpowering of our fine wine. We were assured it was subtle, and offset by some cinnamon which added sweetness and countered any heat of the chili. Unfortunately, this was not the case and one bite almost tainted my palette for discrimination of the wine for the rest of the evening. Exacerbating the situation, while part of the allure of this entree selection was the side of polenta, but when I commented on the mis-representation of my entree, they awkwardly seized by plate and left me sitting with nothing, waiting for a replacement, while the others dined. When my replacement pork chop arrived it was a small portion, much smaller than Mark's and was slightly undercooked.

Jane and Linda had the Salmon entree and Jane's too was undercooked. 

For the dessert course, there was no chocolate choice, which for me, is almost a main course, and the strawberry shortcake was woefully short of strawberry (s). Once again, to exacerbate the situation, coffee never arrived to accompany the course.

Tonight's dinner was a celebration of two anniversaries and longstanding friendship with Jane and Mark, whom we've known for more than a couple decades going back to college and high school.  

Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley 2001

This wine comes packaged in a heavy oversized, almost magnum weight bottle.  

Consistent with our last tasting of this wine, it was a perfect complement to the beef and the pork chop entrees, dark garnet/purple colored, medium-full bodied, smooth, polished, complex full flavors of spicy blackberry and subtle red raspberry with tones of clove and sweet dark mocha turning to finely integrated tannins on the smooth lingering finish. 

This limited production (148 cases produced) wine was crafted by Drew Neiman, assistant to the legendary producer/winemaker John Kongsgaard.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27471

http://www.robertmorris.edu/eyrie/ 

 

Nova Wines Norma Jean Merlot 2014

Nova Wines Norma Jean Paso Robles Merlot 2014

I wrote last year about this time of the release of Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jeane wines from Nova Wines.  As I wrote earlier, Nova play on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, and have built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal wines featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors. Vintage bottles of the label fetch high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that holds a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they're offering at $3500.

As I write about this marketing strategy and phenomenon in detail in my earlier blogposts, I wrote that Norma Jeane is the low end, budget priced label in the portfolio which continues to grow in a range of varietal offerings and price points. The family has grown to also include Marilyn Cabernet and a recently released premium priced ($100+) Velvet Collection. According to their marketing, "Norma Jeane wines have captured the imagination of collectors and as well as those who simply enjoy the exuberance of young and delicious Merlot." Indeed, its more marketing than viticulture and winecraft as the wine's appeal exceeds its wine pedigree.

This wine at $11 retail ($13 release price from the producer) is the entry level wine in the range, produced for early drinking upon release, or when young. As such, it is whimsically marketed as a 'young Marilyn Merlot' (wine) and features pictures of the starlet early in her career at a young age.

Similar to last year's release, the rear label notes this is the 17th edition of this wine and cites, "Before Marilyn, before Hollywood, there was Norma Jean, referring to the actual name of the starlet. The Marilyn Wines website describes the photo adorning this year's release label and that early photo of the starlet and . "Marilyn appears on the cover of the magazine Personal Romance wearing a red striped blouse and a ship captain’s hat in this photo taken by Bruno Bernard. Marilyn once remarked "Remember Bruno, everything started with you!" as he took some of the earliest photos of Marilyn."

Despite the producers' winemakers notes about the wine, this is a modest lackluster wine, lacking charm or appeal, consistent with earlier releases. 

The producer's notes, "Making a young Merlot requires a coordinated eff ort on the part of the vineyard staff and the winemaker, to grow the grapes and make wine with the knowledge that the wine is slated for early release. One is immediately struck with the rich, deep, purple color of the 2014 Merlot. There is nice intensity of aromas with raspberries, red currants, and plums and hints of spice and cedar weight on the palate . We really love this one and it’s time to say, “I’ll have a glass of 2014 Norma Jeane.”

Similar profile to recent earlier releases, garnet colored, opaque, lean, somewhat flabby and austere, vegetal green pepper and black olive character overshadows any berry fruit, turning to tangy spice with tone of wet wood and hints of grass. Like previous years, buy it for fun and the label, not the contents. Indeed, people will.

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2177964

http://www.marilynwines.com/

Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay at Chinn's Fishery Lisle

Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 2011 at Chinn's 34th Street Fishery in Lisle, IL

For an impromptu casual weeknight seafood dinner we dined at Chinn's 34th Street Fishery in Lisle, IL. Many people are aware of the legendary Bob Chinn's Crab House up in Wheeling, IL, one of the top five grossing restaurants in the United States serving more than one million diners per year! 

Chinn's is known for "jet fresh" seafood, jetted in daily from quality providers in the leading seafood markets - Hawaii, Alaska, the Atlantic, the Pacific, Florida, Louisiana and other centers where they have something to offer on any given day. 

I recall there is a connection with the famous Bob Chinn's and Stan (shown left) and Kim Chinn, owners of Chinn's 34th Street Fishery, nephew and Uncle as I remember. Whatever the connection is, it is readily apparent in Bob Chinn's 'jet fresh' approach also employed by Chinn's in Lisle. Like Chinn's Wheeling, they showcase the day's arrivals with the actual Air Bills of Lading (pictured below) from the major airlines - Alaska, United, American, Southwest ... showing arrivals that day from the seafood centers around the globe. The philosophy provides the best seafood catch of the day from all the centers. Both preach a deliver fresh catch selection, quality and value with a simple direct straightforward presentation in a no-frills setting.

A reminisce side story - I digress ... Stan and Kim Chinn cite on their website that they "landed in Lisle, a place they were both familiar with. 10 years prior to opening Chinn's Fishery, they both worked at the same location they would later purchase for their business." 

Jet Fresh Seafood !

I would bet a paycheck that very few can recall a restaurant that was there previously. Before then, going back many years (circa 1980), Linda and I enjoyed dining at this location at a restaurant called Bully's. We dined there often and rejoiced having such a quality venue with such great food in such a cosmopolitan yet comfortable setting so close to home. We dined there often. I still remember some of our favorite entree selections.

Then, we had a sub-standard visit, followed by another, and then again. Noting the trend, I summoned the MOD - Manager on Duty to inquire if there had been a change, citing our experience of notable diminution. We were advised that the property had previously been purchased and taken over by the notable restauranteur (Peter) George Makris, whose Flame Restaurant had literally burned to the ground. He took over the local eatery and established Bully's to keep his staff and business operations intact whilst he rebuilt the new restaurant in nearby Oak Brook Terrace. Then, when the restaurant was finished, the whole lot moved into the new venue and Bully's was taken over by a new owner and staff. (Makris also had 'Flame' steak houses in Chicago, suburban Countryside (closed in 2012), and West Palm Beach, FL).

Chinn's 34th Street Fishery - Lisle

Researching this further, my recollection is correct .. checking his obituary from the archives, according to the Chicago Tribune March 24, 1997, "In 1964, he (George Makris) opened the Flame, in Oakbrook Terrace that burned to the ground in 1979 but was reopened around the corner in 1982. In 1994, Mr. Makris changed the Flame's name to Bully's Chop House & Tavern Room..." It was during that interim period that we availed ourselves of team Makris in Lisle in the site that today is Chinn's. Stan Chinn took over the follow on flailing restaurant in 1995 and founded Chinn's 34th Street Fishery and are celebrating their twentieth year.

Back to the two Chinns. Another indication of the connection between the two Chinn restaurants is their common feature selection preparation options - Bob Chinn's "Eight Way" (shown) and Chinn's 34th Street Fishery "Seven Way" fish preparation - 1) Steamed, 2) Chargrilled, 3) Blackened, 4) Beer Batter Fried, 5) Sauteed with lemon, 6) Broiled Grecian Style, 7) Sauteed with capers, and 8) Stir fried with mushrooms. 

If you need further proof, try their garlic laced bread rolls common in both sites! 

From the simple, basic winelist, we selected this Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay for our dinner. Beth ordered the stuffed shrimp, Bill the sea scallops, grilled, and Linda, the crabcakes. I took the prize for the best dinner entree selection, the Hawaiian Mongchong, chargrilled, one of their signature dishes and a fresh catch of the day, which was delicious. 

Note that Wednesday nights, bottle wines are half price (except premier selections). We'll note that for our next visit!

Visitors to the Napa/Sonoma Valley region that have traversed the Napa Sonoma Road that wraps around the bottom of Mount Veeder that separates Napa and Sonoma valleys, where it approaches the top of San Pablo Bay, the area known as Carneros, will recall passing Domaine Carneros on the main highway. What is notable about that elegant stylish Chateau, is that it sits at the top of the bottom-land that reaches down to the water, San Pablo Bay, which is the north end of San Francisco Bay. Turn South towards the water there and there are a number of vineyards and wineries that feature Carneros Burgundian varietal wines - notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Besides Acacia Vineyards and Etude, one of the major producers in the area is Bouchaine. 

Bouchaine state they are the longest continuously operating winery in the Carneros, going back to the turn of the previous century, and under the same current ownership since 1981. The story goes that the property was originally settled by a Missourian with the colorful name Boon Fly who grew grapes and fruit trees on the property in the late 1880s.  In 1927, the parcel was acquired by an Italian winemaker named Johnny Garetto who sold to Beringer in 1961.

The current owners Gerret and Tatiana Copeland were part of a partnership that purchased the winery and surrounding land in 1981 and proceeded to develop and renovate the property. Bouchaine Vineyards was born in 1993 when they became sole proprietors. Around 1990 they added 60 acres to the original thirty, contiguous property that includes the two hills which have become icons of the Bouchaine Estate and are featured in their label design.

Today, the Bouchaine’s Estate is 100 rolling acres  planted in 7 clones of Pinot Noir, 5 clones of Chardonnay, along with some Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. They produce a wide range of labels with a couple vineyard designated selections. This label is their baseline Estate bottled Chardonnay that is targeted at providing a high QPR large production wide distribution bottling to introduce and establish brand awareness for the line.

Note that Bouchaine Winery will be at Chinn's 34th Street Fisher October 6th for a wine dinner. 

Bouchaine Napa Valley Carneros Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2011

With its cooler and rain shortened growing season, being picked early, this Chardonnay is less rich and deep as vintages allowed to ripen further - resulting in higher acidity and forward citrus lemon predominating, that the winemaker states serves as a great palate cleaners between bites of buttery sauce laced foods with simply grilled dishes. Its light, butter colored, clean crispness finishing with subtle tones of pear and almond was a nice compliment to our seafood dinners.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1885260

http://www.bouchaine.com/

http://www.chinnsfishery.com/

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002

For pop and pour sipping on the deck with some herb (from our garden) infused oil and cheese, I pulled this Marquis Philips '9' Shiraz 2002, one of a few remaining from the oldest of a half dozen vintages we still hold of this wine.  Crafted by Sparky and Sarah Marquis before they moved to Mollydooker fame, this bold expressive forward wine begs for the tangy spicy bar-b-cue or hearty cheese, and vica versa!

 As I wrote in my last review of this wine, last summer, this full-throttle intensely concentrated classic South Australian Shiraz burst on the scene in 2001 with direction from Robert Parker to 'run, don't walk' to your wineshop to buy this wine.  Marquis Philps was the result of a partnership between the highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate. The Aussie - American partnership produced the whimsical Roogle character - half eagle and half kangaroo (shown on label left). The brand of Marquis Philips inexpensive wines immediately gained enormous success and a faithful following. Of course Sarah and Sparky Marquis went on to form the current follow-on brand/label Mollydooker.

This big, complex, concentrated powerful wine with super rich, ripe tongue-coating fruit. This release of  '9' was sourced from McLaren Vale (60%) and Padthaway (40%) in South Central Australia.

This 2002 Shiraz 9 is showing the same at a thirteen years as it did at ten according to my earlier review, still opaque dark garnet inky purple colored, full-bodied, complex,  intensely concentrated tongue coating notes of super ripe black currants and plum but the aging fruits are taking on notes of raisin and fig with tones of espresso roast, smoked meats and leather on the layer of mocha, burnt sugar with hints of alcohol and anise on the lingering finish.

While Robert Parker and I gave this 93 points on release and in 2004, I give it 88 points at this stage of life and advise to drink it up. Linda loves this bold expressive style but its actually too much and over the top for my tastes.

RM 88 points. 
93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate October 2004
89 points, Stephen Tanzer's IWC

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17771 

Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard 1999

Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard 1999

For an impromptu mid-week dinner w/ L at our neighborhood trattoria, Angeli's Italian, we took this BYOB selection from the cellar. This is the sixth vintage of this label we've tried and the oldest at time of drinking, and our first taste of this vintage. Hence, the advanced age may be a determinant of its tasting profile as much as the vintage characteristics. I sense this is at its apex but nearing the end of its prime drinking window. It was a great accompaniment to Angeli's hearty Pasta and Peas with Vodka Cream Sauce.

Only 130 cases were produced of this vintage release. This was not as complex, smooth or polished as the last bottle we had in late spring which was from the 2004 vintage.

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, thick chewy concentrated complex super ripe black and blue berry fruits predominate with tones of cassis, leather and smoky oak. Bright acidity with full textured mouthfeel tannins on the lingering tangy finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=48712

www.angeliscatering.com 

Diverse Big Reds for Angelis Italian Dinner

Diverse Big Reds for Angelis Italian Dinner

For a wine dine get together with two wine buddy friends Don K and TRR, we took some special bottles BYOB to our regular meeting place for such occasions, Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. Don came by to pick up fifty bottles of wine I had acquired for his cellar as part of my consolidated buying for myself and my wine buddies. We learned our lesson and started this practice years ago to avoid bidding against each other for the same wines at auction! Also it allows us to pool our resources for greater buying influence/power, and to spread the spoils of allocated wines. Don brought a Wallis Family Estate Napa Diamond Mtn Cab while Tom brought a classic Tignanello 1999. Both wines were perfect accompaniments to the Italian Sausage and Peppers starter and the hearty pasta dishes.

Wallis Family Estate Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

An interesting discovery by Don, this boutique producer label is
crafted by legendary winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, ala TRB.
Thomas, from South Carolina, attended the University of Virginia before moving west to Napa Valley soon after graduating. He started his wine career working for Turley Wine Cellars in 1997. Today, he is winemaker for over a dozen wine brands including Schrader, Maybach, Revana, and Outpost, specializing in premium Cabernet. He has produced multiple perfect 100 point wines, notably "Old Sparky" by Schrader Cellars leading to being awarded Winemaker of the Year in 2010 by Food & Wine. 

He hooked with up Wallis starting with the 2009 vintage release. This  label is sourced from fruit their 13 acres of vineyards in Diamond Mountain District at an elevation between 600 to 800 feet. They grow Bordeaux varietals Cabernet (75%), Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.

The vineyards are part of an 85 acre property on Diamond Mountain Road in Calistoga acquired by Wallis in 1975. The property came with an old stone Castle built in 1906 by Jacques Pacheteau, which they are turning into a classic stylish tasting room, and a Barn built in the late 1800’s designed by W.H. Corlett. Fruit from the vineyards planted in 1997 was initially sold to David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars from 2001-2003, and then to Chris Carpenter of Lokoya Winery from 2004-2005. From 2006, Wallis has produced wine for themselves under their own label. Wallis Family Estate currently produce their wines at Thomas' new winery venture at Mending Wall Winery on Silverado Trail in St. Helena.


Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, slightly lean moderate black cherry and berry fruits accented by a layer of tar, smoke and spice. Somewhat closed and tight on opening it opened after an hour and much moreso the next evening to aromatic floral and incense, ending in powerful, intense, acid laced tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1413534

http://www.wallisestate.com/

Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT 1999

We've shared this wine with TRR a couple times over the years. Classic SuperTuscan Blend hitting its stride in its fifteenth year, perhaps at the apex of its tasting window. Consistent with my notes from earlier tastings.

Deep Ruby colored, medium-full bodied, forward bright vibrant mouthful of black cherry predominates with notes of currant, spice, and hints of tobacco and leather on a lingering silky tannin finish.




RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=96168

Caravan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Caravan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The exploration of the blockbuster 2012 Napa vintage continues. With a 'textbook perfect' vintage, there are likely to be some blockbuster wines, and great high QPR values from the second and lesser labels as the vintages releases are introduced.

Caravan 2011 shown

Following our tasting the blockbuster, big robust Paul Hobbs Crossbarn 2012 last night, we were drawn to try another 2012 second label for a mini horizontal comparison - second Paul Hobbs label vs the Caravan second label of Darioush.

Caravan generally tends toward a more fruit-driven palate and forward profile, less sophisticated and complex than the Darioush 'Signature' label. This release is a blend of 14% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec to add finesse to the Cabernet and complexity to the finish.

From the winery: "A fabulous vintage produced a stylish and substantial 2012 Caravan with a firm, structured palate and sleek, polished tannins. Offering saturated flavors of dark cherry and blueberry as well as notes of chocolate and white truffle; this is a round, supple and thoroughly approachable wine ready to be open and enjoyed."

We're big fans of Darioush but have never been enamored with this second label. The Darioush presentation of Caravan is interesting in how it positions Caravan - "Caravan is borne of the exploration of new vineyard sites for our Signature wines. Made in an approachable style, Caravan supports winemaking experimentation and vineyard enhancement."

We ordered a bottle of this with son Ryan, at the bar of the rustic Herrington Inn in Geneva where we were attending the wedding celebration of daughter-in-law's brother. After tasting the big robust Paul Hobbs Crossbarn,  (which was also on the winelist), Caravan with its narrower and more subdued fruit comes across like a prop vs a jet.

Ruby colored, medium bodied, the austere profile was apparent in the glass. Initially a bit lean and narrow, the cherry fruit was quickly overtaken by tones of graphite, anise, leather and coffee with a hint of mocha and truffle. This showed much better later in the evening against the table wine served at the banquet we were attending. Big fans of Darioush but never here-to-for captivated by this second label, that trend continues. Perhaps another try will reveal it in a better light.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1876509