Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011 

Wanting a nice Syrah for a BBQ rib dinner, I pulled from the cellar the oldest vintage of our collection of this producer's labels. Our visit to Force Majeure Vineyards was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience in 2018. 

Marketing Director and wife of winemaker Todd, Carrie Alexander was kind enough to host us and help arrange some of our wine tastings and winery visits. 

We assembled a collection of Force Majeure wines after hosting Carrie and winemaker Todd Alexander here in Chicago during their release tour back in 2017.

This vintage release if from the previous generation winemaker at Force Majeure. Force Majeure Vineyards was originally called Grand Reve which means “great dream” in French. It was founded in Woodinville, near Seattle, in 2004. It was a collaboration between businessman Paul McBride and vineyard manager Ryan Johnson who spent a decade managing vineyards in Eastern Washington’s prestigious Red Mountain AVA. He and McBride wanted to focus on Rhone-style varietals and they were soon winning raves and ratings from Wine Advocate and other reviews. 

McBride and his wife Susan changed the winery name to Force Majeure. They hired winemaker Todd Alexander who was previously winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyard in Napa Valley to oversee winemaking.  

Jeb Dunnick of Wine Advocate has called Force Majeure “One of my favorite estates in Washington… This label is comprised of Red Mountain fruit, with grapes sourced from the crème de la crème Ciel du Cheval vineyard. 

Today, Force Majeure wines are increasingly from their estate Force Majeure Vineyard on a steep, rocky site on the upper slopes of Red Mountain and their Walla Walla estate vineyard as more and more plots come online. 

Force Majeure Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 2011

This is a blend of 96% Syrah, 2% Viognier and 2% Rousanne. It was aged two years in 33% new French, 67% neutral French barrels. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated but nicely balanced, smooth but more subdued blackberry and dried cherry fruits with notes of olive tapenad, spice, leather and hints of black pepper with fine acidity and tannins on the lingering finish,  a nice accompaniment to our BBQ rib dinner. . 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788978

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard 2008

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Red Wine 2008

 

Linda prepared grilled pork chops with a delicious medley of grilled apples, vegetables and onions (below). For a wine pairing, I pulled one of our favorite labels, Uriah from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington State, Columbia Valley.

Our Spring Valley wine club allocation shipped this week so we pulled one of their labels to make room for a current vintage release replacement bottle. As part of cellar management, we pulled the oldest vintage release of this label, a twelve year old 2008. We hold of decade of vintages of this label.

Uriah is a Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, meaning it is predominantly Merlot based rather than Cabernet, complemented by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

We visited Spring Valley during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby (above) patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, namesake for this label. Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience. 

All of the Spring Valley wines are named for one of the ancestral family members, and one for Dean himself. Spring Valley Vineyard produces wine from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington.

Washington State and regional powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates purchased the winery and the brand from the Derby family, but they continues to own and operate the vineyards.

Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Red Wine 2008

This label is a Merlot based blend of Bordeaux varietals, the 2008 vintage consists of 53% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. This was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Consistent with previous tasting note from 2019, this was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied,  black raspberry and black currant fruits accented by cedar, tobacco, notes of licorice and cinnamon spice. 

At a dozen years of age, the cork, foil and label were perfect but this is beginning to show its age and is starting to descend from the apex of its drinking profile.

RM 89 points, a deduction of one point from earlier.

This received 93 points from Wine Spectator and 89 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1017181

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/03/uriah-spring-valley-vineyard-red-wine.html

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Mid-week rainy day shut-in, we opened some wine to sip with Linda's Italian Bruscetta polenta and some artisan cheeses, this aged Cabernet Franc from a Napa Valley label and producer from a by-gone era, Liparita, different than the current day label.

While it isn't chronicled on my Winesite, I recall we visited Liparita and tasted earlier releases of this label with winemaker Gove Celia from barrel at the Oakville crush facility during one of our Napa trips back in the late nineties.

I've written earlier in these pages about this 'old' Liparita brand from the nineties. The actual original brand dates back to the historic beginnings of wine in America back in the 1880's when William Keyes, a geologist, settled in Napa Valley and discovered the Howell Mountain terroir with its volcanic soils which he felt would be ideal for wine. The soils reminded him of those on Lipari Island, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily, which became the inspiration for the name “Liparita.”

That original Liparita, like many other early wineries, succumbed to the restraints of Prohibition and the attacks of phylloxera on the early vine plantings. This Liparita brand resurfaced briefly during the nineties and then after waning was purchased was relaunched by Spencer Hoopes who purchased it in 2006.  The Hoopes' branding label is what you find in wineshops today, producing and remarketing Napa Valley appellation specific wines. The revitalized Liparita label replicates the original early 1880's design, and that original intent to produce great cabernets from the various notable vineyards from across Napa Valley.

I read that Gove Celia is director of winemaking at Neal Family Vineyards which ironically is on Liparita Road in Angwin high up on Howell Mountain. We missed this during our numerous trips to Howell Mountain and will explore this further. 

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Hard to believe its been almost ten years since I last tasted this label. Moreso that it still has that same taste profile and character. Back in 2010 and 2012 I wrote, "We've been long time fans of Liparita Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots - this is our first Cabernet Franc and what a hit - a nice achievement exceeding expectations indeed - better than their other endeavors from this era.'

"Like a left bank Bordeaux that features Cabernet Franc to add flavor and structure, this full bodied Cab Franc was all-in with huge floral bouquet and full forward flavors of black berry and black raspberry fruits, a layer of clove spice, leather and a hint of cedar on a long lingering finish. Its slightly flabby awkwardness can be forgiven for its big forward tasty floral and fruit."

Similar to the previous tasting, however tonight the floral and fruit flavors have started to give way to non-fruit flavors of smoke, earthy and leather.

We've been long time fans of Liparita Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots - this is our first Cabernet Franc and what a hit - a nice achievement exceeding expectations indeed - better than their other endeavors from this era. 

Back in 2012 I rated this RM 91 points. Tonight I give it an 88 based on diminished fruits and floral notes.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=158451

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2012/03/monastrell-red-blend-leads-red-wine.html

Clark-Claudon Napa Cabernet 1997

Clark-Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 1997

Continuing our Coronavirus shut-in, we ordered 'curbside carry-out' from our neighborhood trattoria, Angelis Italian. We're endeavoring to support our local restaurants during this crisis albeit remotely since the bar and dining rooms remain closed .

I pulled from the cellar a boutique Napa Valley producer Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon.

We hold close to two decades of vintages of this label going back to their inaugural release in 1994.

Clark-Claudon are estate bottled Cabernets, sourced from their 18 acres of vineyards on the northeast side of Howell Mountain. The total estate covers 115 acres, sited between 800 and 1200 feet elevation, between Ink Grade & Howell Mountain roads.

We met Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon-Clark (middle couple on left) when we hosted them for a wine producer dinner at then trendy Pinot Blanc in St Helena during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999.

I recall friend and wine-buddy Paul McDonald (left) from LA had some association with the restaurant ownership back in the day.

Clark-Claudon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 1997

I selected a 1997 vintage release which is one of the few bottles remaining from a case we acquired back during that trip. The much heralded '97 Napa Cabernets were highly rated and projected to be long lived.

As I wrote in a previous tasting of the release back in 2014, "In earlier tastings of this vintage of Clark Claudon, I wondered if it was like Dominus (86) and some Bordeaux (89-90 Pichon Lalande) that I later learned I drank too early when they finally 'awoke' to reveal their true character and fruits years later?'

Back in 2014, "Unlike previous tastings when the Clark Claudon was somewhat closed and a bit flabby with muted fruit upon opening, tonight it seemed to be showing its age, opening to ripe raisiny black cherry and black berry fruit, with subtle tone of cigar box and leather with nicely integrated and balanced silky smooth tannins. After an hour or so the fruit closed down and it became subdued leaving a slight astringency and tones of tobacco and leather.'

Tonight, this was settled and open and while not showing diminution from age, will certainly not improve further, but there should be no hurry to consume the remaining bottles for another year or more.

Due to the wax seal on the top of the bottle, I couldn't easily use my ahso two pronged cork puller, which I would normally use for an aged bottle. Despite using the 'rabbit ear' cork screw with the extra long screw, the cork pretty much disintegrated in a crumble and had to be dug out in crumbly pieces from the bottle, which was then strained and decanted.

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, bright lively, nicely balanced structured black berry fruits with notes of black cherry, hints of graphite, leather and earthy tobacco with modest smooth tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=436557

https://www.clarkclaudon.com/

Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

As the Coronavirus shut-in continues, our family and friends are having fun with our virtual wine tastings sharing texts and videos of our wines and dinners.

Friend and colleague Tom R texted me that he opened a 2003 vintage release (he's so proud that he has now mastered his 'ahso', two pronged cork puller) of this label and asked if he had waited too long? I replied, "absolutely not, we're still holding a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the mid-nineties". So, when Linda prepared grilled tenderloin steak with mashed potatoes and green beans, I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage release from 1998 for the pairing.

Chateau St Jean is one of the premier producers in Sonoma County and their winery chateau estate is a showcase highlight of the Sonoma Valley.

Our private tastings at the 1920's chateau with views of the Grand Lawn and Estate Vineyards and in the Reserve Room have been the highlights of our trips to the region including our 2017 Sonoma Wine Experience and our Sonoma Harvest tour in 2009.

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" was one of the first classic Bordeaux Blend labels from the region and has always represented good value, high QPR relative to the top Bordeaux labels. It was the Wine Spectator #1 wine in the annual Top 100 list in 1999 with the 1996 vintage release. At that time the release price was $28, a remarkable value at the time. From then on, the label exploited its #1 legacy and notoriety and boosted the price point, but it still represents reasonable comparable value. 

Chateau St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

At twenty-two years of age, this 1998 vintage release was still drinking nicely and holding its own, despite being from a lackluster vintage that was expected to have a short lifespan drinking window. The color is taking on a slight opacity and grey hue and the fruits are starting to give way to non-fruit flavors so it is starting to decline and should be consumed over the next year or so.

I have written often in these pages about the 1998 vintage release of Napa and Sonoma Valley Cabernets. Jancis Robinson of Jancis Robinson.com wrote of the 1998 vintage, "The vintage was slammed by some critics, and shame on them, for many terrific wines came from 1998, after the rush-to-judgment were made."

This was an over-achiever for the vintage exceeding expectations on release and in the years since. 

This classic Bordeaux Blend contains the five Bordeaux varietals, hence the name Cinq Cepages for the 'five flavors'. This release is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit-Verdot.

Robert Parker awarded this release 89-91 points, and Wine Enthusiast 90 points.

There was dense sediment in the bottle. This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm structure, tightly wound but nicely balanced with complex black currant and black cherry fruits with sharp acidity accented by briary herb, earth, cedar, hints soy and anise with moderate tannins on the long finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2027

https://www.chateaustjean.com/wines/cinq-cepages

Viader V Petit Verdot 2000

Viader "V" Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2000

We discovered and acquired this label during our visit to the Viader winery estate on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008. We have since acquired and still hold more than a half dozen vintages dating back to this 2000 release. 

The Viader 23-acre estate sits at 1200 foot elevation overlooking Napa Valley. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Viader is known for its Bordeaux-style blends. The elevation is notable as that is the height that the fog reaches above the valley floor and hence is the point at which below is designated Napa Valley, and above it designated Howell Mountain. This is due to the difference terroir due to the effects of the fog on the ripening vines. 

With son Alec engaged to Vivianna, this has become somewhat of a 'signature' wine for us and our future daughter-in-law.

Readers of these posts know we have a lot of fun with wine labels associated with family members and friends, as well as vintage specific wines for birthyears, anniversaries and memorable occasions.

Tonight, we video-conferenced with Vivianna and Alec celebrating her birthday together, albeit remotely and virtually. In this case our virtual visit was due to distance between Chicago and New York, and not the isolation due to the current Coronavirus pandemic. In commemoration of her and her special day we opened this vintage release of the ultimate 'V' label and shared it via video.

Another 'V' series of labels we enjoy with and in honor of Vivianna is from Venge Vineyards, as shown.

The 'V' is a testament to the producer and winemaker Delia Viader, a remarkable and impressive lady who was born in Argentina and educated in Europe before earning graduate degrees in the U.S., a notable role model for any career minded female. It is also the branding and label for this single-varietal designated wine that is based on the Bordeaux Varietal Petit Verdot.

Delia Viader spent much of her formative years in Europe and in France where she earned a doctorate in Philosophy from the Sorbonne University in Paris, then pursued advanced business studies in the US at MIT, UC Berkeley and UC Davis.

Recognizing the potential Napa Valley wine industry in the 1980's, Delia acquired the Howell Mountain property and set out to create a world class wine estate, and continued studying Enology and Viticulture at University of California, Davis.  During this time she also raised her four children in the wine environment and culture.

We had the pleasure of meeting Delia Viader during a producer tasting evening sponsored by Binny's here in Chicago back in 2005. 

Petit Verdot (“peh-tee vur-doe”) is used as a blending grape in red Bordeaux blends because of its full body, plentiful color, tannin and floral aromas of violet. Because of its boldness, Petitot Verdot typically comprises less than 5-10% of the blend and is rarely produced as a single-varietal wine.

In recent years, Petit Verdot has emerged as a increasingly popular single varietal offering and we have collected the varietal from several of our favorite producers including Spring Valley and Del Dotto. Viader were ahead of their time in offering this as a standalone offering back in the day.

To accompany this special wine, Linda prepared a spectacular meal complete with grilled stuffed mushroom caps with sausage, jalapeno and cheese. 

Viader "V" Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2000

This released was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator.



This is a blend primarily of Petit Verdot sourced from a 1.2-acre plot in the northeast corner of the estate of  where the soil is particularly rocky and the yields are incredibly small. The producer says, "in each vintage, these grapes are short on production but always long on personality".

The blend also contains some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Only 353 cases were produced of this release.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm structured blackberry and black currant fruits, licorice, spice, leather with hints of menthol and dark mocha, finishing with bright acidity and dusty, fine tannins.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3022

https://viader.com/ 

Marco DiGuilio Diamond Mtn Cabernet

Marco DiGiulio Mark K Vineyard Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Entering week four of the Coronavirus shut-in, we order from Angelis Italian, our local neighborhood trattoria. I pulled from the cellar this vintage aged Marco DiGiulio single vineyard designated Cabernet Sauvignon for the wine pairing. I have blogged about the background and history of Marco in these pages.

 Marco DiGiulio gained a reputation producing premium wines as consulting winemaker for a number of high end boutique producers in the Napa area. He worked at well known wineries including Buena Vista, Pine Ridge, Atlas Peak and Pepi Winery. While at Pepi he was put in charge of the esteemed Lokoya brand focusing on high end Cabernet Sauvignon.

He came on the scene with his own label in 2001 through 2005 and then seemed to fall off the grid in terms of his own label. We saw his label in the Napa Valley wineshops that featured hip limited release boutique producers such as Bounter Hunter wines in downtown Napa. He also had some select distribution in New York, Florida and a few other states. We found and acquired his wines on Winebid.com. It was also available on his website at www.marcowine.com, but it has become increasingly scare with the passing of time.

We still hold each of his vintage releases, '01 through '05, from both his vineyards, Mt Veeder and Diamond  Mtn. As a borderline obsessive wine geek, we researched his vineyard sources and his subsequent works to track terroir and legacy and succession in artwork. We have written about his work as we have in the cases of the Long Shadows and their Vintners' Collection which features the works of Philipe Melka and Randy Dunn, two legendary Napa producers, or Nils and Kirk Venge, who touched so many labels across the valley over time.

Much of the fun of collecting and studying fine wine is to follow the careers of notable winemakers from label to label, from vintage to vintage. Much of my journaling in these pages is following winemakers through such studies. Such a pursuit and study has been more difficult with the more stealthy, less public Marco DiGiulio.

Marco DiGiulio Wines featured single vineyard designated selections with premium fruit sourced from prime vineyards on Mt Veeder and this Mark K Vineyard from Diamond Mountain.  I wrote about his Mt Veeder label sourced from the legendary Pym Rae vineyard in this blogpost.

Marco branded release bottlings are packaged in large extra heavy gauge glass bottles with an extra deep bung, that 'bump' in the bottom of the bottle to separate sentiment. Each of his two wine labels were produced in small quantities of only 200 to 300 cases. Marco’s wines were aged in 100% New French Oak barrels.

Marco DiGiulio Mark K Vineyard Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a vineyard owned and managed by Norm Kiken, the owner of Reverie Winery. The vineyard grows on volcanic soils with a southern exposure and always ripens well.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, nicely balanced and well integrated rich black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of smoked oak, anise, spices, hints of soy and dustiness with lively acidity on a smooth lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=68522

http://www.marcowine.com/

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Vieux Telegraph CDP 2010 with Grilled Ribs

Coronavirus shut-in dinner, Linda grilled BBQ ribs and baked potatoes so I pulled from the cellar favorite bbq rib pairing, Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Tonight, we opened a favorite CDP from Vieux Télégraphe in remembrance of our visit to the estate and meeting Daniel Brunier during our visit to the appellation last summer. 

 

Our Vieux Télégraphe visit was certainly a highlight of our trip to the Luberon and Rhone Valley.

I probably should've held this as it should age for three decades or more, and I almost opened a '96 Beaucastel, but I couldn't resist opening this in tribute to producer Daniel Brunier and his artwork, as well as his generous hospitality hosting us there.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate awarded this release 97 points and said "the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

In 2012 Parker wrote, "More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity. Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years."

Jeb Dunnuck said, "this will not be a wine for instant gratification and needs a solid 5-6 years of bottle age; it should keep for upwards of three decades."

This also got 96 points from Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter and Wine Spectator and 94 points from Vinous and Wine & Spirits.  

 

In 2016, wine writer critic Jeb Dunnuck gave a seminar at the Hospice du Rhône event in Paso Robles. This non-profit organization has long been a supporter of Rhône varieties from around the globe, and Dunnuck wrote "I continue to think it’s one of the best wine events in the World." 

The title of this seminar was “The Intricacies of Châteauneuf du Pape”, and he put the wines together with the idea to show the differences between rolled stones terroirs and sandy terroirs, as well as highlight the differences between traditional and modern wine making techniques.

He chose this 2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape LatCrau, one of four wines to highlight classic, traditional Châteauneuf du Papes. He wrote, "(This wine) is about as classic as they come. Dark fruits, lots of minerality, ripe herbs and licorice all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe beauty."

So, here at ten years one might think this is at the apex of its drinking window. I believe it probably will be at its prime in another five or even ten years at it seemed a bit tight and closed.   

It’s dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, full bodied, dense concentrated, complex black cherry and black currant fruits, black olives, licorice, spice and crushed pepper tones with hints of tobacco, magnificent 'legs' of structured, textured tannins yet smooth and approachable on the finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1220964

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/