Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe

Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe 

Hosting in-laws Pat & Rodger at The Cove, our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we dined at Henderson Park Inn Resort Beachwalk Cafe, on the deck watching the magnificent sunset over the waters of the Gulf (of America). 

I’ve written often in these pages about Beachwalk Cafe, one of our favorite dining spots on the Emerald Coast that we frequent each time we in town including these past dinner visits: 

Sunset dining at Beachwalk Cafe

Hope Cuvée at Beachwalk Cafe, Destin

Lewis Chardonnay BYOB at Henderson Beachwalk Cafe

Henderson Beachwalk Cafe Dinner with a view

Tonight, the ladies ordered and shared the signature Beachwalk Grouper Vince with Pecan Crusted, Crispy Potato Cake, Haricot Verts, Honey Worcestershire Sauce.

Both of the men ordered the Snapper topped with lump crab meat, with Corn Truffle Risotto, Madeira Mushrooms, Matchstick Truffle Fries in a Citrus Beurre Blanc sauce. 

I took from our remote Destin wine cellar, BYOB, this interesting aged, big, bold Rhône Valley varietal white blend from Santa Barbara County. 

Herman Story “Tomboy” Viognier 2011 

What a strange name for a wine label!?! Leave it to Paso Robles producer Herman Story, known for a whimsical, odd but creative branding strategy, with a broad portfolio of uniquely named labels such as Bolt Cutter, Casual Encounter, Milk & Honey and Nuts & Bolts, to release a label such as this. 

Proprietor, winemaker Russel From explains on each rear label the brand name inspiration - “Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales, and my grandfather ….”

The Herman Story website describes Winemaker/Producer …. “Before he was a winemaker, a self-proclaimed black belt, and an internationally renowned runway model, Russell always had a borderline-concerning obsession with great food and wine. After graduating from Cal Poly with a few winery internships (and a bunch of noise complaints) under his belt, he started Herman Story in 2001 with seven humble barrels of Syrah stashed in his employer's cellar.’

“What started as an homage to his grandfather grew into a lineup of the most boisterous, buckle-up-and-hang-on, Rhône-inspired wines on the Central Coast. Today, after 20+ years and a bunch more noise complaints, Russell hasn't lost a shred of his passion for wine, people, and perfectly seasoned ground beef. Off the clock, you'll find him whipping up salsa verde, floating the Salinas River, or trying to break the world record for longest distance pulling a Learjet 45 by beard.”

Russel applies his grandfather’s ‘teller to tales’ to his wines, with a story behind every label, for example:

Russel’s story behind the Nuts & Bolts label  …. “Single vineyard wines are sort of like kids on the Ivy League track; you just have to make sure that you don’t do anything that throws them off and you’ll see them succeed. Blends like Nuts & Bolts are a bit more like me, it takes some well timed advice, a bit of hand wringing and a lot of love to see them come into their own; but when they do they always take the limelight.”

The winemaker/producer’s tasting notes for his “On the Road Grenache” tell the story explaining the label name: “Driving up and down the Central Coast throughout harvest has it’s perks, sure I now know more places to find legit burritos than I ever thought possible, but aside from that I get to spend countless hours mulling over the best way to blend my Grenache lots.” 

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate describes Herman Story (winery and branding) - “Readers looking for super-concentrated, extroverted, exuberant, powerhouse wines from California's Central Coast need look no further than the Herman Story estate. For those who love the wild side of Rhone varietals pushed to the limit (but not over), these are highly recommended. Moreover, prices are exceptionally fair for this level of quality."

With it’s whimsical label, I’ve held this bottle in our cellar for over a decade, waiting for the right opportunity to open this label, taking the branding inspiration into account. I brought this bottle to Florida to perhaps open with Linda’s girlfriends during their visit last month, and finally, set an occasion with Linda and her sister, “farmer Ned Long’s daughters”, for tonight’s dinner. 

Russell’s Herman Story whimsical anecdotal story of this ‘Tomboy’ wine:

“I appreciate a sturdy woman, a lady who the wind isn’t gonna blow over. I also enjoy a woman with many layers; someone I need to take my time on to get to know properly. Once again, Tomboy floats my boat.” 

“You only know one person who can get bucked off her horse, break a few ribs, ride fifteen miles out of the hills, and show up in time to deliver a doozie of a closing argument. Brown sugar hair in a tight bun, cinnamon power suit, working the small-town jury box with candied peach logic and irrefutable grilled pineapple evidence, smooth as butter and spice. By the end, she’s got at least three in tears, and after the verdict comes out, she’s back in the saddle, because she’s not going to leave those cowboys shorthanded.”

This 2011 Tomboy is a blend of Rhône varietals - 83% Viognier and 17% Roussanne, sourced from the Larner, White Hawk, Denner & James Berry Vineyards in Santa Barbara County. 250 cases were produced. 

Our experience was summed up nearly perfectly by one reviewer who wrote - “Light gold color. Best Viognier I’ve ever had. Strong nectarine, honey, and buttered toast on the scent. Taste is tangy melon, followed by floral and earthy mineral notes, with a surprisingly spicy finish. So complicated.”

Russel describe an earlier vintage release of this label this way: “The 2009 vintage is a sturdy showing, indeed; a white wine that probably makes more sense to a red wine drinker than most red wines do. And multi-faceted is an understatement. This wine is so densely layered, it’s more likely to be recognized by MENSA than I ever am. It smells like crushed honeysuckle, wool shirts, lime zest, coconut, butterscotch, wood fire and pain perdue. It tastes like all of those things plus lychee, nectarine, white tea, thyme, orange marmalade and saltwater taffy. Actually, I stopped writing down what this wine tastes and smells like after an hour because my hand got tired. But mostly because I wanted to give it my full attention.”

Tonight, at fourteen years, the fill level was fine but the cork was dry and came apart upon opening using a traditional waiter’s cork screw. I delicately managed to extract the bottom remaining 1/4 of the cork. 

Deep golden colored, medium bodied, rich, concentrated, sharp and forward, zesty melon, lychee, pineapple and blood orange fruits, accented by a layer almost approaching butterscotch and buttery pain grille, with notes of coconut, spice, and hints of vanilla on the mineral laden tangy flavorful finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1528146

https://hermanstorywines.com/about-us/meet-russel/

https://hermanstorywines.com/

https://www.hendersonparkinn.com/

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin 

With visiting friends Eric, Cathy, Pat & Rodger, we dined at Captain Dave’s On The Gulf Seafood Restaurant in Destin, FL., a short walk from The Cove, our Destin vacation rental. 

Captain Dave’s On The Gulf is the oldest seafood restaurant in Destin, family owned and operated since 1968. It offers beach front views from the spacious high ceiling dining room overlooking the gulf. 

They feature the usual appetizers, soups, salads and sides. Their speciality is American seafood cuisine infused with a ‘contemporary Gulf Coast twist’. - the local fresh catch seafood dishes - Flounder, Grouper, Mahi Mahi, Snapper and Refish as well as shrimp, lobster and salmon as well as steaks and chicken dishes. 

“Captain Dave’s Faves” signature dishes are artfully prepared with imaginative preparations featuring their signature homemade sauces such as their Parmesan Italian Cream Sauce. Our veteran server provided prompt attentive gracious and friendly service. 

I enjoyed their Mahi Mahi with Parmesan Cream sauce last month and was eager to have it again, and, based on my raving about the entree, several of us ordered it as well. Everyone loved it, although, beware, the Parmesan crème sauce is rich and filling. 

I took from our cellar, BYOB, this Carneros Chardonnay for pairing with the fresh seafood dinners. With two attorneys at the table, it was whimsical and fitting that I selected a wine from an attorney turned wine producer. 

I wrote about this producer and label in detail in a blogpost back in 2023, Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Chardonnay with Grilled Salmon, excerpted here:

We have several bottles in this collection so I pulled this, the oldest vintage to consume as part of cellar management..  

Jayson Pahlmeyer was a successful trial attorney who started becoming hooked by the wine industry and slowly phased out his law practice in pursuit of developing his own wines. He partnered with John Caldwell, owner of a 55-acre site in south-east Napa Valley. Together, they began planting French clones of red Bordeaux varieties.

“All I wanted to do was to create my own ‘California Mouton’ – a rich, powerful Napa Valley Bordeaux blend, a wine that would drop wine lovers to their knees,” says Jayson Pahlmeyer.

He made several trips to France to find some of the highest quality Bordeaux varietal clones, seeking assistance over several years from viti-cultural professors at the University of Bordeaux who analyzed the soil samples, exposure, rainfall and temperature data from Napa. 

Jayson and his partner were able to acquire Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec vines and managed to smuggle their “suitcase clones” through Canada and then took them back to California where he planted his own vineyard.

“My closest advisors, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer told me ‘If you want to be a first-growth, you have to have your own vineyards,’” says Jayson Pahlmeyer. “I found this property in the eastern hills of Napa Valley that was owned by the Waters family - an incredible parcel with views to the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco skyline. John did the soil analysis, David Abreu studied the terrain, and speaking for all of them, Helen proclaimed it ‘paradisal’. It was rocky, desolate, low vigor, with good drainage. Perfect for growing Bordeaux varieties.

“I hired David Abreu to develop it, and Helen and Erin Green, Helen’s protégé and our longtime winemaker, selected the clones, which included those smuggled from Bordeaux that I had been using since my 1986 vintage.”

Planted in 1981, the French cuttings slowly adjusted. Pahlmeyer Wine released their first vintage in 1986 with the help of Randy Dunn, one of California’s foremost winemakers, the Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red was made and launched.

Helen Turley took over winemaking in 1993 and further improved the quality and consistency of Pahlmeyer wines. They started producing wine at the Napa Wine Co in 1994 soon after Napa Wine Co underwent a huge renovation to accommodate production from wineries who do not actually have their own physical winery at the time. 

Jayson’s daughter Cleo joined the team in 2008.

Today, the winemaker is Bibiana Gonzalez Rave. She received her oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and has worked at estates in Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Valley and other locations in addition to Napa Valley. She was named Winemaker of the Year for 2015 by the San Francisco Chronicle.

Jason Pahlmeyer understood that making wines with exceptional concentration, complexity, and ageability required venturing to extremes. That’s what drew him to the rugged parcel of vines on the ridgeline of Atlas Peak that would become his iconic estate vineyard. 

 

The Pahlmeyer estate vineyards include Water’s Ranch, Stagecoach, and Antica parcels, that all sit above 1,400 feet elevation where they benefit from three more hours of sunshine per day compared to lower altitudes that are often cloaked in morning fog. This additional sunlight ensures the berries achieve a deep, rich color and complex flavor compounds. 

 

Location, map and technical information for Pahlmeyer Estate Vineyard.

We love Pahlmeyer wines and have served special large format bottles of our son's birthyear vintage bottles at his wedding celebration and birthday dinners as posted in these pages -  

Pahlmeyer Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Red Blend 1990, and,

Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Pahlmeyer "Jayson" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

Over the years, the portfolio grew to also include the "Jayson" brand that includes several reds, and a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines that sourced from lower elevation vineyard sites including some on the valley floor and in the Carneros region at the lower end of Napa Valley near San Pablo Bay. 

With daytime temperatures averaging 5-10 F cooler, our mountain vines respire less acidity to produce energy; the acidity retained in the grapes results in greater freshness and balance in the wines. Cooler temperatures also prolong the growing season, allowing the clusters to hang longer on the vine and achieve optimal flavor development. The Pahlmeyer Rancho Chimiles parcel, while slightly lower in elevation, sits close to the San Pablo Bay and enjoys cooling afternoon breezes that moderate temperature.

Tonight this big bold rich Jayson Chardonnay was ideal with our grilled mahi mahi and grouper dinners. 

Ironically, the week of that earlier blogpost, Pahlmeyer Twitter ('X') site features their Chardonnay harvest. 

 

This wine is a marriage of three distinctive Napa Valley regions: bright, elegant Carneros hillside; and rich, ripe St. Helena valley floor; with intense mountain fruit at its core. 

This was vinted by Winemaker Bibiana González Rave and blended by Jennifer Williams

Winemaker Notes - “This wine has brilliant golden straw color and aromas of warm spice, tangerine, and sweet orange; intriguing tropical floral notes carry over onto the palate. Flavors of ripe pear, apricot, and mango peel are accented by warm spice and rich caramel, for a wine that is both weighty and fresh.’

“The grapes were hand-sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After settling overnight, the juice was fermented in barrel, including 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in 35% new French oak barrels for eleven months.”

At eight years of age, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all ideal. This was likely at the end of its prime drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather likely to start to diminish going forward, so it was time to drink. 

 

Similar to earlier tasting notes for this label, this was deep golden colored, medium full bodied, rich full bold apple and tropical and stone fruit flavors with hints of pineapple with a rich layer of vanilla and caramel/butterscotch with accents of oak, grapefruit and minerality on a roasted nut finish acidic finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3105647

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/vintage/2017-jayson-chardonnay/

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/

https://twitter.com/Pahlmeyer

https://www.captdavesonthegulf.com/

BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines

 BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines 

Visiting The Cove, our Destin, FL, vacation rental with friends, and in-laws, all from Indiana, Linda prepared BBQ ribs with corn on the cob and baked potatoes, and salad. 

To accompany the dinner, I opened two wine from Indiana producers, one from a winery and vineyard we all pass often on the highway, and another, from near our Alma Matre Indiana University down in Bloomington.

I’ve written about Carpenter Creek Cellars and their Indiana Produced Wines in these pages in this earlier blogpost. 

 

I also opened this 50 year anniversary iconic Napa Cab, to commemorate all of our Fiftieth’s, as we were in each other’s weddings, a long while ago, but this was the first time we’d all been together since our anniversaries. 

We served this wine as part of our celebration wine flight during our Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN, featured in these pages in this blogpost, and several other vintage releases for such applicable anniversaries over the years. 

Eric picked up and brought two hearty big red wines for the occasion - each a perfect complement to the BBQ. 

 

 

I opened and served this Aussie Cab/Shiraz blend first, thinking it would be bigger and more complex than the Prisoner, and was wrong, as they turned out to have the opposite relative profiles from what I expected. Fun with Mollydooker, as Eric, as well as Linda are Mollydookers - (Australian for left handed person (s)). We’ve written about Mollydooker and our fun with their portfolio of wines often these pages …  

Finally, we closed with this unique Indiana Red Dessert wine. Too sweet for most, but inviting with Tiramius dessert, and the salad! 

Great food, fun, fellowship, celebrating, reminiscing…. Fun with wine! 

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

Gala Family Celebration Dinner Welcomes new grand-daughter Ryleigh

We gathered the family together to welcome Alec and Vivianna’s new baby, our newest grand-daughter, Ryleigh, to the family. We ordered carry out Italian cuisine from Angeli’s Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. 

Dinner consisted of Angeli’s signature dishes, Mussels in White Wine sauce, Butternut Gnocchi, Peppers and Sausage, and Lasagna, with garlic bread and salad. 

Prior to dinner we had a medley of artisan cheeses with crackers and fresh fruits and olives. 

For the occasion, I opened a flight of wines, white, red, sparkling, and dessert, several aged vintage wines from our cellar collection of birthyear vintage wines, in this case for Alec’s birthyear. 

We celebrated and I wrote about the extraordinary, exceptional 1990 vintage, Alec’s birthyear often in these pages including - Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Opening multiple bottles of the same vintage is called a ‘horizontal’, (as opposed to a ‘vertical’, which is multiple vintages of the same bottle/label). A horizontal tasting is often revealing in comparing how one region, varietal, appellation and producer ages relative to others. 

Charles Heidseick Brut Vintage Champagne 1990

This is one of several Heidseick Champagne houses, named for founder Charles Heidsieck, nephew of the famous uncle of the Piper-Heidsieck Champagne House. Charles Heidsieck was born in 1822 and married into the Piper family. 

Charles grew up in the vineyards and gained experience at his uncle’s business, but left to pursue his ambitions based on his own winemaking philosophy and founded his own Champagne House, Charles Heidsieck in Reims in 1851. 

After success in the Europe marketplace, Charles set out for America to sell his wares in the US and was one of the first to introduce Champagne successfully to the country. He gained notoriety and popularity with his outgoing gregarious personality and he famously became known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. 

Charlie had an eventful few years in America, including being imprisoned in Louisiana on suspicion of being a spy during the Civil War. He was eventually freed by President Lincoln himself and then returned to settle in Champagne.

Unlike his peers, Charles viewed himself as a blender and not a grower and , instead of purchasing land, he spent most of his money investing in forty-seven underground chalk cellars dating back to the 11th century. He began buying grapes from trusted grower families with expertise in perfecting the care of their vines going back generations. 

Today, Charles Heidsieck Champagne sources grapes from 60 separate sites, encompassing a variety of different Crus, some of these plots are cultivated by the fourth or fifth generation of the same family.

Charles Heidsieck is a hand-crafted champagne. The intricacies of its complex make-up have been perfected over the years by one of the most celebrated winemaking teams in Champagne. Between three winemakers they have been awarded Sparkling Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge twelve times, an award no other house has won more than twice!

The flagship cuvée, Brut Réserve, is the house’s flagship masterpiece. Many years in the making, the wine is a blend of 60 of the best vineyards and harvests going back more than 15 years. It is aged in the House’s Roman chalk cellars under Reims, which provide an ideal environment to age the wine with its unique combination of constant temperature, high humidity levels and no sound, light or vibration to disturb the wines. 

Since 2011, the company has been owned by the Descours family continuing the legacy ensuring the company remains family-run with a long-term vision for the future. In early 2015, Cyril Brun took over as Cellar Master, having been assistant winemaker for many years at Veuve Clicquot.

I’ve written often in these pages about the incredible 1990 vintage that enjoyed success globally, from Bordeaux in France, to Napa Valley in American, to Australia. Indeed, Wine Spectators Wine of the Year featured 1990 vintage releases for three years to follow.

The 1990 vintage in Champagne was also extraordinary. Despite severe frosts in the spring, the vineyards enjoyed hot weather throughout the growing cycle. Not since 1950 had the sun been so strong; grapes had never experienced so much sunlight. There was, however, no drought like in 1976 or 1959. Just at the perfect moment, as the situation became dire, it would rain.As a result, the vine stocks, deeply rooted in the chalky soil’s water reserves, did not suffer. The heat hindered the development of disease and parasites, leading to perfectly healthy grapes at harvest.

This release was a traditional blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay.

Producer’s vintage notes - “TO THE EYE: A golden robe with glints of copper sparkling withdelicate phemeral bubbles. ON THE NOSE: The wine expresses maturity as it opens with notesof oxidation: spices, roasting coffee, jellied fruit sweets andcandied melon. There is also a touch of cocoa. This complex noseoffers toasted, roasted notes with citrus fruit, bergamot, lemonand orange zest. The structure develops, but contributes to thearomatic complexity without overpowering it. ON THE PALATE: The palate is characterised by nuts – walnuts andhazelnuts – but also cocoa, coffee and raisins. The wine demonstrates great elegance and freshness thanks to its citrus fruit notes accompanied by apricot and mirabelle plum. The finish is saltyand chalky.”

We acquired several bottles of this birthyear vintage designated Champagne years ago and served it at special occasions, most notably, Alec and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago and at other family celebrations, since. 

We still hold several bottles of this label and need to consume them soon. At thirty five years, this had lost its effervescence, yet was still tasty and pleasant interesting drinking. 

Back in 2021 I wrote - Amazing, impressive life left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

Tonight, this was tea colored, light medium bodied, dry, subtle layers of citrus fruit accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and tones of coffee on the moderate finish. With the zest gone, it’s time to drink up the remaining bottles. 

RM 88 points for now. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?39790

Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure Monbazillac Cuvée Abbaye 1990

We opened this vintage dessert wine which went well with the salad, the cheeses, the sausage, as well as the desserts. This sweet dessert wine is from the appellation of Monbazillac, the third most esteemed region in Bordeaux for sweet wines, behind Sauternes and Loupiac. 

Early in the 20th century the wines of Monbazillac were considered equally with and fetched the same prices as the more famous, higher chateaux of Sauternes. With its exceptional terroir and microclimate suitable for the production of late harvest wines, this region is re-emerging the “new” sauternes. 

The wines of Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure are considered among the best in the region. The Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure is situated in Colombier, in the southwest of France, in the Périgord region, in the South of Bergerac, on the appellation Bergerac and Monbazillac.  

The estate covers 125 acres, 80 of which are planted with white grape varieties and 17 with red grape varieties. The grape varieties selected and vinified for the dry and sweet wines are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, and Chenin and Ondenc which are ‘accessory’ grape varieties permitted in the appellation, with a limited percentage in the blend. The grape varieties selected for the red and rosé wines include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec.

Christian Roche has managed the winery since 1984. He rebuilt the wine cellar in 1989 in the his endeavors to improve the quality of the wines.

This is a blend of traditional Monbazillac varietal grapes: 80% botrysized Semillon and 20% Muscadelle. A is customary for dessert wines, the grapes are harvested in multiple passes through the vineyards with only those affected by noble rot making their way into the cuvee. This wine was aged 24 months in oak barrel.

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in ideal condition for their age. The color was deep dark brownish golden tea colored. When released this wine was straw colored, then darkened with aging, turning golden, then increasingly deeper brown. 

Producers’ notes - “Here the Monbazillac is adorned with gold, as it should. While not explosive, the bouquet is a beautiful complexity candied fruit, but also notes of quince, acacia, lemon … On the palate, the sugar-acid balance is remarkable. It is both rich, powerful, bold and fresh. The wood (twenty-six months in the barrel) is perfectly allowed to express the fruit. In a word, harmonious.”

“Luscious deep gold, honeyed and fat with peachy botrytis tones, gingerbread, hazelnuts, fresh mint and eucalyptus on the palate. The Ancienne Cure is mini Mon-bee, marzipan, orange peel and spices.”

Showing its age, gone were bright sprites of apricot, oranges and quince, the fruits were subdued and turned to notes of smoky and espresso accenting the sweet honeyed citrus, yet this was very interesting and enjoyable drinking, especially nicely paired with various courses of the meal.  

RM 90 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=167954

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/167954

https://www.domaine-anciennecure.fr/gb/

This mini-horizontal tasting of two Bordeaux varietal wines from the same vintage was illuminating, comparing the Bordeaux to the Alexander Valley Cabernet. 

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

We then opened this well known popular label from Alec’s birthyear vintage. This is the same label we served at his and Vivianna’s wedding celebration five years ago. We also still hold several bottles of the Napa Valley variant of this label. Believing it will age longer than the Alexander Valley version, we opened this one, as part of cellar inventory management. 

We wrote about this label and this birthyear release in more detail in this earlier blogpost - Special Silver Oak Birthyear wines for Festive Holiday Open House, and Birthyear vintage labels and large format bottles.

We hold over four cases of this label across a vertical collection of sixteen vintages dating back to the birthyears of each of our kids. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and more importantly the cork and fill level were in remarkably ideal condition for their age. 

Winemaker Notes for this release - “The 1990 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has a stable and lively translucent, ruby red color. It offers aromas of bergamot, vanilla, and hints of black cherry. This wine has an impressive lively and bright, yet elegant, attack and mid-palate with hints of red pepper flavor. The 1990 still shows exuberance and structured tannins on the lengthy finish. Decanting suggested. “

This was rated 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

After decanting and breathing for two and a half hours, this was still approachable, albeit showing its age with a slight bit of funkiness, leather and wood setting in, offsetting the blackberry fruits. The color was still dark garnet colored with the slightest bit of cloudiness appearing. 

Medium bodied, the blackberry and black cherry fruits were hanging on with notes of leather, cigar box, cassis, spice and forest floor with a still balanced lingering finish. 

RM 89 points at this stage.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10085

This was an interesting comparison to the same vintage Bordeaux below; see comments that follow. 

Chateau La Louviere Passaic Leognan Bordeaux 1990

We hold nearly three cases of a vertical collection of this label spread across a dozen vintages dating back to this birthyear release. 

At thirty five years, the label and foil, and the import fill level were in good condition for their age. (We still hold five more bottles of this release and we selected the one with the worst condition soiled label.) The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

The cork was saturated and starting to soften and started to recede into the bottle when pressed with the two pronged cork puller. With care and a more than a bit of experienced skill, it was extracted intact, but proceed with caution opening more bottles. 

This was rated 91 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Wine Advocate, back in 2000 and 1997 respectively. .

Wine Advocate wrote, “One of the finest of the lesser known Graves chateaux, La Louviere has been making terrific wine since the late eighties.” 

Wine Spectator wrote’ “ One of the best wines ever from this estate.”

Compared to the Silver Oak, Alexander, this was showing more diminution from aging, with slight rust brownish color hues on the rim, slight clouding, and showing a bit less remaining structure and body.

Slight foggy dark garnet colored, medium bodied, dark berry and cherry fruits were a bit muted but still hanging on, accented still by that classic Graves tobacco, smoke, leather and cassis, with slight remaining grainy texture on the short finish. 

This was still holding on surprisingly well, and approachable, mostly so as part of this horizontal comparison, but it’s time to drink up in the near term. 

RM 87 points at this stage. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?10446

Our great fun with wine such as this gala family celebration continues. 

Italian Dining at Bacchanalia Little Italy Chicago

Italian Dining at Bacchanalia Little Italy Chicago

We dined at Bacchanalia Italian Restaurant in Little Italy, Chicago, named after the Roman God Bacchus. This follows our wonderful, memorable Sunday afternoon alfresco dinner at another neighborhood restaurant a couple weeks ago featured in this blogpost - Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy.

The Oakley Street barricades are gone as autumn wanes so we dined inside in the small intimate dining room in the rear of the small neighborhood trattoria. 

Since its founding in 1979, Bacchanalia has been continuously family owned and operated by The Pieri Family from Pisa, Italy (Tuscany). It purports to be the longest single-family owned Italian Restaurant in the Heart of Chicago's Heart of Italy area on famous South Oakley Avenue.

Belfonte and wife Noemi Pieri moved to the US in 1958 to pursue their lifetime dream opening their own Italian Restaurant. 

Using recipes they brought from their families in Tuscany, they opened Bacchanalia in 1979, just blocks away from their home. The Pieri’s remained fulltime in the business until 2000 when their daughter and son, Paula & Dante, took over the business. 

Pieri continued to develop new recipes until he passed away in 2006. Today, Noemi still contributes in the kitchen hand making the ravioli.

Entering through the quaint cozy bar, the intimate old fashioned dining room is in the rear, with white table cloth covered tables.

For our dinners we both selected ‘signature dishes’, Linda ordering the baked clams and I had the signature Veal Lombardo.

The Veal Piccata Lombardo is represented as ‘Veal medallions sauteed in a lemon, wine Sauce with Capers and topped with Mozzarella Cheese’, but somehow they forgot the capers. 

Had I ordered the basic Veal Medallions sauteed in a light Lemon Brown Gravy, it might have been more complete and tasty. 

When I questioned the preparation and presentation, they brought me a ramekin of fresh capers, which I added to my now cold entree! Presumably, these are normally cooked in for a more tasty sauce.

Linda’s Baked Clams stuffed with Homemade Filling were okay. 

Perhaps the highlight of the mean was the dessert course. The dessert menu is presented in a quaint colorful booklet with photos of each of the selections. 

I had the Tiramisu which came in a large portion, while Linda had the cannoli. 

Both desserts were delectable. 

From the minimalist wine list we ordered a basic Chianti Classico Reserva. 

Ruffino Chianti Classico Reserva 2021

This over-achieving label is the base entry of the Ruffino family and represents high QPR in this release at retail prices - not so much at tonight’s restaurant price at nearly 3x retail. 

Ruffino apply their century-long Tuscan traditions with new state-of-the-art cellar technology and modern winemaking, operating seven prominent estates in Tuscany, all situated within the major DOCG production regions including Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti and Chianti Classico. 

Founded in 1877 by Illario and Leopoldo Ruffino, their winery in Pontassieve is just outside of Florence. In 1913, the Folonari family purchased Ruffino and started a nearly century-long pursuit to develop and consolidate a collection of estates in Tuscany. Producing wines according to a strict quality standards and  rigorous technical research, Ruffino have became an international symbol of the Chianti region having won numerous awards including the prestigious gold medal at the Bordeaux Wine Fair in 1895.

Winemaker’s notes - “Intense ruby red. This complex wine is characterized by cherry and violet notes with delicate hints of tobacco, white pepper, and a touch of flint. This complex wine is characterized by cherry and violet notes with delicate hints of tobacco, white pepper, and a touch of flint”.

This is 80% Sangiovese augmented with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

This was rated 93 Points by Wine Spectator and 92 Points by James Suckling.

Bright ruby red, medium bodied, a bit disjointed, yet, expressive plum, cherry and boysenberry fruits with notes of tobacco, forest floor, thyme and baking spices, with juicy acidity and a tangy texture on the lingering finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5096899

http://www.bacchanaliainchicago.com/home2.html

Gia-Mia Carry-out with duo of Big Reds

Gia-Mia Carry-out with medley of red wines 

We visited kids and new grandbaby and took carry out dinner from Gia-Mia Restaurant (Naperville). 

For wine pairing with the hearty zesty Italian fare I brought from our home cellar a robust red wine from Venge Vineyards. I’ve written regularly in these pages the fun we have with this label and their prominent “V” branding, a signature brand for our daughter-in-law Vivianna. 

Tonight, we took Venge Scout’s Honor, their unique big red Zinfandel based blend. As part of proper cellar inventory management, I took the oldest vintage release of this label from the half dozen vintages we hold and maintain for such occasions. We wrote about the producer and this label as part of previous tastings of this label from earlier vintages in these blogposts -  

Venge Vineyard "Scout's Honor" Napa Valley Red Blend 2017

Venge Vineyard "Scout's Honor" Napa Red 2015.

Venge Vineyards Scouts Honor Red Blend 2018

First produced in 1996, this wine is dedicated in memory of the Venge family beloved, yellow Labrador Retriever, Scout. Rescued in 1989 from the Napa County Animal Adoption Center, he welcomed visitors to the winery for seven years. I recall the vineyard dog Scout from our earliest visits to the winery and estate vineyards. 

This unique Zinfandel-dominated Proprietary Red Blend is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and the remaining 9% Syrah. 

This is sourced from many old vine vineyard sites across Napa Valley and Sonoma County, that are managed by families who have been farming for over 100 years and who own and work the vineyards themselves.

The Vineyard sources included: 

    Signal Fire Vineyard, Venge’s Calistoga Estate, Napa Valley (Old Vines | 70+ Years)

    Frediani Vineyards, Calistoga, Napa Valley (Old Vines | 100+ Years)

    Luvisi Vineyard, Calistoga, Napa Valley (Old Vines | 100+ Years)

    Moss Creek Vineyard, Capell Valley, Napa Valley (Old Vines | 50+ Years)

    Korte Ranch Vineyard, Saint Helena, Napa Valley (Old Vines |70+ Years)

    Monte Rosso Vineyard, Moon Mountain, Sonoma County (Old Vines |100+ Years)

    Grist Vineyard, Bradford Mountain, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County (Old Vines | 50+ Years),

    Kick Ranch Vineyard, Rincon Valley, Fountain Grove, Sonoma County

The unique dual AVA (Napa Valley plus Sonoma County) listing of this wine allows Venge to continue to produce a high-quality red blend in volume from year to year. Napa Valley, old-vine vineyards are becoming very scarce commodities as they are being replanted to Bordeaux varieties or purchased by competing interests. 

So, Venge have ended up including Sonoma County fruit sources from their sister winery, in Russian River Valley, where delicious, old-vine crops are abundant and contribute complexity and expressive, concentrated flavors in the resulting wine.  

Note it is labeled ‘Napa Valley’ which means the majority, more than 75%, to be precise, of the contents are sourced from Napa Valley. 

Winemaker Notes - “The small, individual lots of fruit were destemmed into a combination of stainless steel tanks and open top fermenters, where whole-berry fermentation took place for an average of 20 days. The wine was barrel aged for 14 months in 50% new American Oak and the balance in once used tight grain French Oak. No conventional pumps were used in the making of this wine. Only diaphragm air pumps, forced air pressure movement, or bulldogging, and transfers by gravity were employed to preserve the pure fruit integrity in the wine.”

This release was rated 92 points (and ‘Editors’ Choice’) by Wine Enthusiast, and Jeb Dunnuck, and 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Consistent with earlier tasting (s) …  Deep garnet-purple color, full-bodied, rich, forward, bright vibrant expressive ripe plum, jammy blackberry and cherry fruits with cedar, spice, cigar box and earthy balsamic notes with vanilla and oak turning to soft tannins on the round finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3525137

http://www.vengevineyards.com/

@VengeVineyards 

Alec then pulled from his cellar this rare limited release big red Napa Cabernet. 

Scarlet Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

I have the 2013 release of this label in our cellar which I wrote about in this blogpost back in 2016, McGah Family Vineyards Scarlet (excerpted below), so I was eager to try another release from this producer. 

McGah Family Vineyards Scarlet

We first discovered this McGah Family Vineyards Scarlet when it was a highlight of a Vin Chicago Naperville Weekly Wine Tasting where we tasted and acquired an earlier release of this wine.

Vin Chicago is a City (Chicago) wine merchant who back in 2016, had a Naperville and some other suburban locations (since closed), who would host a weekly wine tasting at their local store (s). They regularly featured premium and ultra-premium wines such as this one. While the store only had one case of this premium McGah Family Vineyards Scarlett, yet, they still opened it for tasting from which I acquired the last remaining couple of bottles. That 2013 release was awarded 95 points by Wine Advocate. 

Having loved that release, I was excited and eager to try this more recent release of this limited production boutique label. Alec acquired this as an after market auction purchase. 

McGah Family Vineyards "Scarlett" Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

The McGah Family own and operated 64 acres of vineyards in the storied Rutherford appellation on the east side of the central valley near Silverado Trail, where the proprietors reside to this day. 

For four generations, the McGah Family have sold fruit to other producers, and also produce Scarlett Wines under this rebranded label which was named after the producer/founder's daughter. 

The McGah Family were most notably known for co-founding the Bay Area Oakland Raiders NFL team.  Sherratt Reicher was grandson of E.J. McGah, former Boston Red Sox player and second generation Oakland Raiders owner. 

Following a sports career as defensive assistant and scout for the Raiders, he formed the Hudson Companies in 2002 that included Scarlett Wines and McGah Family Vineyards in its portfolio. The McGah family maintained its ownership in the Raiders until 2005. 

Scarlett "McGah Family Vineyards" Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 

This is estate sourced, 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot. It was barrel aged in 85% new French oak consisting of Darnajou, Taransaud, Marcel Cadet, Remond, Trueil, and Sylvain barrels.

Winemaker notes - “The 2018 McGah Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a brooding, complex, and beautiful Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon that can only be made in this storied appellation. The uplifting aromatics showcase multiple layers of black cassis, red fruits, and earthy components known for this terroir. The mid palate is perfectly balanced with abundant blue, red and black fruits, followed by a full-bodied mouthfeel that hovers across the spectrum of the palate. Perfectly integrated structure and polished tannins lead to a detailed and long finish that carries the signature Rutherford dust component that our wines are known for. A blend from five of our Cabernet Sauvignon blocks on the estate, this wine showcases the unparalleled terroir of the McGah Vineyard. Allow 2-3 years for the tannins and fruit to come together or enjoy it in its prime 5-10 years out.” - Mike Smith, Winemaker

This 2018 release was rated 93 points by International Wine Review and Jeb Dunnuck, 

Dark inky, blackish purple colored, full bodied, dense rich and concentrated yet smooth and polished, complex core of sweet black raspberry and black currant fruits accented by cassis, mocha, graphite, touch of vanilla and sweet spicy oak with smooth polished tannins and mouthfeel on the lingering finish.  

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3286306

http://www.scarlettwines.com/