BYOB Brunello Italian Wine and Dine at Angeli’s Italian Naperville

BYOB Brunello Italian Wine and Dine at Angeli’s Italian Naperville 

We dined with neighbors/friends Richard and Adessa at Angeli’s Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I took from our cellar this middle-aged Brunello Di Montalcino, a Sangiovese that be become one of our favorite varietals, especially with tangy Italian faire. 

I ordered their signature comfort dish, Pasta and Peas - Ground Italian sausage simmered with sweet peas in a vodka cream sauce and tossed with rigatoni pasta. The ample portion provided a left over dinner the following night at which time this was even better! 

Linda order her favorite standby dish, Angeli’s Eggplant Parmigiana - Layers of lightly floured eggplant stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, baked in the oven, and topped with homemade marinara sauce (pictured below).

To accompany our meal, we brought BYOB from our home cellar this middle-aged Brunello di Montalcino. 

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2017  

I’ve written often in these pages about Brunello and what makes it so special. They are sourced from the Italian appellation of Brunello di Montalcino, regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. 

Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino appellation rules require 100% Sangiovese.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG has to be made 100% with Sangiovese grapes alone, and made only within the Montalcino municipality area. It can only be sold in the market from January 1 of its fifth year after harvest. Prior to that, the wine cannot legally be called Brunello di Montalcino (not even in the cellar): it is simply "red wine to become Brunello di Montalcino DOCG".

Montalcino is a picturesque, hill-top town that was not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until the 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine.

Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.

Altesino is located In the heart of southern Tuscany, forty kilometers south of the City of Siena amongst the north eastern hills of Montalcino. The 15th century Palazzo Altesi overlooks the estate. Built by the Tuscan family Tricerchi in 2002, Altesino has been owned by the Gnudi Angelini family with technical collaboration of Paolo Caciorgna, the company have involved the Brunello di Montalcino for forty years. 

They were a forerunner with the introduction of the “Cru” concept (Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli) concept in 1975, Altesino was the first winery to use barriques in 1979. In 1977, the first Grappa di Fattoria was created and produced by Altesino with the help of the master distiller Gioacchino Nannoni.

The Altesino estate covers 250 acres, half of which are planted vineyards consisting of six plots, each of which are distinguished and represented with single vineyard designated wines in their own right.

The six vineyards consisting of one parcel in the north – Altesino, one in the north east Macina, two in the north west - Cerbaia and Montosoli (first Cru in the history of Brunello di Montalcino and always famous for the production of wines of extreme elegance), one in the area of Sant’Angelo in colle – Pianezzine, and finally, one in Castelnuovo dell’Abate – Velona.

In addition to Sangiovese, which constitutes the majority of the plants (used for the production of Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino and Palazzo Altesi), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are cultivated (which in blend with Sangiovese give the Alte d’Altesi and the Rosso di Toscana), the Trebbiano and the Malvasia (for Vin Santo), the Vermentino, the Chardonnay and the Viognier destined for the production of Bianco di Altesino.

This release was awarded 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 92 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Winemaker’s Notes - “Brunello di Montalcino is the ambassador of top quality Italian wines around the world, the first wine to receive the DOCG appellation. Brunello is a brilliant ruby red colour, tending towards garnet red with age. Its bouquet is intense, pure, pleasant and refined, reminiscent of sweet violet, tobacco, chocolate and pleasant hints of wild berries and vanilla. Its flavour fully confirms the above in a well-balanced, full-bodied wine with good tannins and a solid structure.’

For the 2017 vintage release - “Brilliant ruby-red color, this classic Rosso offers sumptuous aromas of ripened blackberries and dark cherries. On the palate, the wine is generously well-rounded and rich with fruit-forward notes complimented by hints of leather and mesquite.”

Tonight’s tasting of this label release was consistent with my earlier tasting note pasted last winter when I wrote: “Tasted from wine list at Italian Village Chicago for a fabulous, perfect food and wine pairing. Dark Ruby colored, medium-to full-bodied, full round balanced blackberry, black cherry and black currant fruits with savory baking and clove spices with hints of licorice, tobacco and leather with smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.”

RM 92 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/01/pour-boys-wine-dinner-at-italian.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4119676

http://www.altesino.it/en/altesino/

Angeli’s Eggplant Parmagana

Richard ordered another Angeli’s Signature dish, Shrimp Diavolo - Shrimp sautéed in a spicy red sauce with spinach and fresh tomatoes. 

Adessa had the Angeli’s Chicken Parmigiana -Breaded chicken breast smothered in marinara sauce, baked with mozzarella cheese, and served with pasta.

To accompany their shrimp and chicken entree’s, at my suggestion they ordered from the wine list this unique interesting Italian White Blend. This has become our go-to wine there, enjoyable, sophisticated great value, high QPR drinking - everyone loves it, as did Adessa and Richard. 

I’ve featured this wine many times in these pages, as excerpted below. 

Stemmari Dalila Sicilia Viognier Grillo DOC Blend 2020

This wine finds its way to the Angeli's winelist as a result of owner Tony Angeli having visited the Feudo Arancio Stemmari winery estate during his visit to the region a couple years ago.

This wine is from the historic Stemmari winery located in the town of Acate in the Ragusa province of Sicily located in south eastern Sicily. The winery has 1,700 acres in two estates along the south coast of Sicily, one in Sambuca di Sicilia in the Agrigento province and the other in Acate in the province of Ragusa.

The vast Stemmari brand has a broad portfolio of wines include single varietals like nero d’avola, chardonnay, pinot grigio, moscato, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and even a sparkling grillo. They offer a few blends including this Dalila wine.

This unique blend is comprised of the Sicilian varietal Grillo and the international Viognier, native to the French Rhone River valley. The local indigenous wine grape "Grillo" – which means "cricket" in Italian. This Sicilian white wine is composed of 80 percent Grillo and 20 percent Viognier.

The interesting branding of music as a metaphor for the harmonizing of the two elegant varietals in the Dalila blend with musical notes on the label and on the bottle foil. 

Tonight they were serving the 2020 vintage release label. This is the forth vintage they've served this wine. This continues to be a sensational and a very pleasant surprise discovery. Its available at a price point that provides great QPR - Quality Price Ratio. We enjoyed this discovery such that we went out and special ordered some from a local merchant to have in our cellar for enjoyable casual sipping.

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Consistent with earlier releases and tastings. Golden straw colored, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced acidity and smooth mouthfeel with intense, bright vibrant, nicely integrated floral and tropical fruits with notes of pear and hints of peach, mango and citrus with hints of vanilla, floral and stone fruits with bight acidity on a character and profile of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

RM 91 points.

https://www.stemmari.it/en-us/products/selections/dalila

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3521489

https://www.feudoarancio.it

https://www.angeliscatering.com/

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Sunday evening dinner, we dined in and eagerly opened this just acquired highly regarded Columbia Valley Syrah. I admit I’d never heard of this producer or this highly acclaimed vineyard source, hence I was curious to try this highly rated label that I picked up at Binny’s, our ‘big box’ beverage superstore.

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah 2017

Avennia is the partnership project of entrepreneur Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson, founded in 2009 based on core principles; “a passionate commitment to signature vineyards and natural processes in the cellar - resulting in timeless, world class wines that are solely and undeniably Washington”. 

This approach and objective is similar to another high profile Washington State producer, Long Shadows, and their Vintners Collection Series of labels, which we love, and have collected as wine club members since discovering them on our trip to the region back in 2017. 

Interesting, that like Long Shadows, Avennia also sources their fruit from contract growers, and promotes their brand through three different tasting rooms in three of the major Washington State wine areas, Woodinville, Walla Walla, at their sole estate vineyard site in the Red Mountain appellation in Yakima Valley. We visited both the Woodinville and Walla Walla wine areas during trips to the region. 

In their first year of production, 2010, they acquired 16 tons of fruit that they transformed to wine that was ultimately released in 2012, Receiving much acclaim in that inaugural release, and affirming and building upon relationships in place with several of the state’s most legendary growers, the stage was set to secure the best fruit in the region for follow-on vintages. More than a decade later, the same core principles continue to guide the direction of the winery and the business.

Marty Taucher, Managing Partner, a native Oregonian, Marty graduated from Oregon State in 1977 and started at then upstart Microsoft in 1984. He went on to lead Public Relations and Event Marketing, then, spent his last five years as Director of Marketing and Brand Strategy for a consumer and online product group.

In 2009, Taucher signed on as a crush intern at DeLille Cellars where he met Chris Peterson and together they laid the plans for what is now Avennia.

Always inspired by new ideas and fresh thinking, Marty is an angel investor. He serves on numerous non-profit boards. When he’s not in the cellar, he’s an avid golfer, a world traveler, and a perfectly reliable

Chris Peterson, Winemaker/Partner was engaged in the Washington wine industry for more than a decade,  working to make some of the state’s most heralded and award-winning wines at DeLille Cellars. 

Together they founded Avennia with the quest to showcase Washington as a unique and compelling place for great wines, acquiring fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington, with a specific focus on the grape varieties used in Bordeaux and the Rhône, in light of their similar latitude to Washington, which makes them a natural fit to excel there.

In thoughtfully choosing vineyard sites to match their winemaking style and preferences, they chose not only the vineyard sources themselves, but down to our favorite vineyard blocks. There is an emphasis on older vines, and moderate climates, as these features tend to create wine with more depth and complexity—a balance between fruit and non-fruit characteristics. 

They strive to craft wine that is balanced and harmonious - the fruit, acid, tannin, perhaps oak. 

Avennia "Arnaut - Boushey Vineyard" Yakima Valley Syrah 2017 

The 2017 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard is 100% Syrah from Dick Boushey's highly regarded vineyard on the western side of the Yakima Valley AVA, considered one of the state's premier Syrah vineyards. 

This is a cooler site, that tends to instill Northern Rhone-like character in the fruit. Dick Boushey was the first grower with whom Avennia partnered. 

From the Boushey site they source three different varieties which go into the three flagship wines. Boushey is best known for Yakima Valley Syrah and Avennia is the only winery that uses both of the oldest blocks of his coveted fruit. The combination of these two Syrah blocks makes up this Arnaut, a wine we have made since our first vintage, 2010. 

The older, called Grand Côte (meaning "great hillside”), produces wine that is piercingly pure and focused, with meaty and mineral aromas backing up its deep blackberry and damson plum fruit flavors. Wines from the second block, Factory Road, show richer body and feature savory cured meat notes, along with orange peel, and a distinct iron note. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Decanter, 93 pints by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, and 92 points by Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast, an Editor’s Choice. 

Aged 18 months in 15% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Case production was 354 caees

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "This vintage brings an exceptional level of finesse to Arnaut, but no shortage of the wild, savory aspects we expect from this wine. The nose features, blueberry, salted blackberry, charcoal-grilled pork chop, asphalt, bittersweet chocolate, bee pollen, and a hint of grapefruit pith. Rich and beautifully textured on the palate, with pure Boushey notes of blueberry reduction, bacon fat, cacao nibs, charcoal embers, and grilled thyme. The elegance here hints at this wine drinking well on release, and it should age nicely for 8-12 years." - Chris Peterson, Winemaker

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits are layered with intense almost obtuse notes of black pepper with accents of creosote, dark spices, black olive, black tea, garrigue, and cigar leaf.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3277603

https://avennia.com/

Plumpjack Estate Napa Valley Cabernet for meatloaf dinner

Plumpjack Estate Napa Valley Cabernet for meatloaf dinner 

For an intimate dine-in Saturday night, Linda prepared one of my favorite comfort foods, meatloaf with carrots, onions and potatoes. For the occasion I pulled from the cellar an ultra-premium Napa Cabernet. 

Given the political ties of this producer, I’ve relegated our collection of their wines to when dining or tasting with my left leaning liberal minded friends. But, with the recent landslide election results, I felt a sense of celebration were in order and pulled this to enjoy on our own! 

At I wrote in earlier blogposts in these pages, this used to be one of our favorite producers until the producer became so terribly political and extremist radical in ideology - several listed and linked here. 

Plumpjack Reserve Napa Chardonnay at Entourage Restaurant Naperville

Plumpjack Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon

Plumpjack Founders Reserve Cabernet - Seasmoke Chardonnay - Paul Misset Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

We still hold a collection spanning more than a two decades dating back to the earliest vintage releases of this label, 1996 and 1997. Back in the early days, our visits to the winery estate in Napa, and wine dinner (s) with their winemaker were highlights of our trips to the region. 

In any event, tonight this was fabulous, ideally paired with the beef meatloaf and sides. I opened a more recent vintage of this label to accommodate Linda, who prefers younger, more approachable wines, never-the-less, a twenty-one year old vintage release! 

Plumpjack Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

The simple summary of the history of the winery, as written in Wine Bid is that PlumpJack, in Oakville, was founded by Gordon Getty, fourth child of legendary oil tycoon J. Paul Getty, a San Francisco composer and philanthropist, and major benefactor financial support to Gavin Newsom, former San Francisco mayor and current Governor of California.

The entrepreneurs opened a wine shop in San Francisco in 1992 called PlumpJack, a reference to Shakespeare’s character Sir John Falstaff, who enjoyed food and wine. The partners founded the PlumpJack winery in 1997 when they acquired 53 acres of vineyards on Oakville Cross Road. The PlumpJack Group now also includes resorts, hotels, restaurants and spas. 

The winery specializes in premium Cabernet Sauvignon, though it also makes a Syrah. Robert M. Parker Jr. notes that all the PlumpJack wines “are fabulous, thanks to the brilliant efforts of winemaker Tony Biagi and consultant Nils Venge.”  

Of course, we’re huge fans of Nils going back to those days, and more recently, his son Kirk. Our cellar is full of Venge wines as witnessed by the number of mentions in these pages. 

A bit of wine world trivia: PlumpJack was the first Napa Valley producer to use screw caps.

This release was rated 95 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Back in 2013, he wrote, “The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (finished with a screw cap) possesses a dense ruby/purple color as well as a stunningly pure nose of creme de cassis, graphite, licorice, forest floor and a hint of black truffles.’ 

“Full-bodied and velvety textured with stunning opulence that expresses this tenderloin sector of Napa Valley so brilliantly, a multidimensional mouthfeel and a blockbuster finish, this profound wine (14.8% natural alcohol) appears even superior to what I remember tasting in its infancy.” 

Back in 2013 Parker wrote, “At $68 a bottle, it-s a steal for a wine of such world-class quality! The finish lasts for 40-45 seconds. While it has reached its plateau of full maturity, there is no danger of it falling apart for at least another 15-20 years. Bravo!” Of course that price has doubled, even tripled in the decade to follow. 

Wine Enthusiast didn’t like it and gave it 86 points. A mystery, leading me to wonder if they had an ‘off’ or aberrant bottle, but then again, they would surely sort that out. They panned it saying, “Pickles and dill in the nose, with underlying cherries and blackberries. In the mouth, it enters brawny and rustic, and very tannic. The fruit is locked down. Seems sound, but disappointingly tough. Could develop, but it's a gamble. Tasted twice.”

Our bottle was traditional cork, not screw top which came along later. At twenty-one years, the critical fill level, cork, and the label and foil were pristine. Tonight this was delicious, dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex yet elegant, smooth polished, a symphony of black berry fruit flavors with bright vibrant sprites of spice, truffle, crème de cassis and bitter dark chocolate. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?152506

Steak Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

Steak Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin 

Following the delightful and superbly staged Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin, the other night, we returned later in the week, our last night Destin before returning home, for grilled beef steak dinner.  

We opened with their delightful Pear Blue Cheese Spinach Salad with fresh berries, sliced pears and vinagrette.

For an entree we had the Wine Bar Filet - 8 oz hand cut filet of beef tenderloin with Roasted Rosemary Fingerling Potato’s and Asparagus Spears. This was delicious, perfectly prepared, presented and served. 

For a wine accompaniment with our dinner we took advantage of the Wine Happy Hour where they serve a 12oz carafe of wine for the price of a large glass, from a broad extensive selection of wines of each varietal from across all the major growing regions in the world.

We selected a Right Bank St Emilion Bordeaux which as expected, turned out to be a perfect pairing to complement the meal, and enhance the enjoyment of the wine. 

Like the carefully selected flight of Bordeaux wines from the curated wine dinner, this was an excellent offering of a high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine. 

Chateau Angelus Tempo d'Angelus 2022

Tempo d’Angelus is a ‘second wine’ (actually a ‘third’ entry level label), a more streamlined version of its illustrious older siblings, Château Angelus and Carillon d’Angelus. While being their lesser wine, it still exhibited the characteristic depth and complexity of the Grand Vin, while offering at the same time a more approachable and affordable alternative. Produced from the great Angelus terroirs and made with the expertise of the estate’s teams, Tempo d’Angelus offers even the most demanding wine lover instant or early gratification in an attractive, well-structured, precise and hedonistic wine that doesn’t require 15 or 20 years of cellaring to be enjoyed at its peak, as is often the case for the Grand Cru wines.

This is a new wine from Chateau Angélus, from the area of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, it is produced from vines located at Saint-Magne-de-Castillon, Castillon-La-Bataille and Sainte-Colombe, a few kilometres from Saint-Émilion, on magnificent clay-limestone slopes. These plots were acquired by Angelus in 2017 with the precise purpose of creating a Bordeaux appellation wine while increasing the Angelus portfolio, and offering an introduction to the brand for more cost conscious consumers. This can be enjoyed at a fraction of the price of the Grand Vin and even the second label. 

From south-facing holdings in the Castillon-Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC, the fruit is declassified into generic Bordeaux. In the tradition of the Right bank, the blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. 

This release was awarded 92 points by pundit James Suckling, and 90 points by Decanter, Jeb Dunnuck and The Wine Advocate. 

Winemaker Notes: This new addition to the range of wines of Château Angélus, made under the Bordeaux appellation, offers a more streamlined version of its illustrious elders -Angélus, Carillon d’Angélus and N°3 d’Angélus, with which it shares the same depth and complexity while being at the same time more approachable young.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant silky smooth polished, balanced black raspberry and currant fruits with spicy notes of herbs, limestone and pencil lead graphite, with firm but polished nicely integrated tannins on a lingering flavorful finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4945654

https://www.thewinebarfl.com/

Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

Tour of Bordeaux Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar Destin

During our getaway week at The Cove, our vacation home getaway in Destin (FL), we attended the Price Fixe Wine dinner at the "Tour of Bordeaux" Wine Dinner at The Wine Bar in Destin. 

This is the same restaurant where we held our Pour Boys Wine Group wine dinner last spring as we gathered in Destin (FL) for the gala SoWal (South Walton Beaches) Wine Festival weekend.

That Saturday evening following the SoWal Wine Festival Activities, we dined at The Chef’s Table Wine Room in The Wine Cellar Room at the Wine Bar Restaurant in Destin. We featured that dinner in this blogpost in these pages - Chef’s Table Dinner at Wine Bar Destin.

This “Tour of Bordeaux” evening was kicked off and hosted by emcee Wade Starwalt, Wine Sales Director of The Wine Bar. 

The dinner showcased a curated flight of carefully selected Bordeaux wines, each paired with a gourmet dinner course, crafted to enhance and complement that courses distinct characteristics. 

As I’ve exclaimed often in these pages, the proper pairing matching food with the ideal wine greatly amplifies the enjoyment of both. 

The pairings this evening were wonderful for each course. This was especially impressive since several of the wines were modestly priced high QPR (Quality-Price-Ratio) wines, which showed exceptionally well with the accompanying food courses. It’s easy to pair foods with expensive wines, but much more challenging to achieve great pairings with moderately priced wines. 

Each wine paired with the courses was then curated and described by guest speaker Cassidy Stiebing, Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux expert from Twins, a French Bordeaux Negociant and US Distributor.

Wine steward, Cassidy Stiebing is a native of New Orleans, Louisiana, now residing in New York City. Her time between those two cities included several years in Europe, where she pursued a career in the wine industry — first in La Rioja, Spain, then in France. In 2019, she earned an MBA in Wine Business from INSEEC University in Bordeaux, which led to her role at Château Pape Clément, overseeing the U.S. market.

After six years immersed in the world of Bordeaux, Cassidy transitioned to the negociant side of the industry in 2023, taking on her current role as Regional Sales Director and Bordeaux Ambassador at TWINS Bordeaux. (Twins provided photo).

The evening was delightful with exceptional food and wonderful wines, supurbley prepared, presented and served. All were matched perfectly to ameliorate each course. The venue, setting, food, wine, program presentation and service were all spectacular, meeting the highest expectations in every respect and offering a great value for such an event. 

The wine flight:

The dinner courses, and pairings:

First Course.- Reception - Goat Cheese Croquettes with tomato sauce, Acorn Squash, Gorgonzola and Walnut Crostini, and Cheese and Sausage Stuffed Mushrooms with Garlic Aioli. 

Paired with the first course was Château Puyanche’ Cotes de Bordeaux 2022. This Grand Vin de Bordeaux  is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. 

The First Course was Shaved Sprout Salad with Apples, Walnuts, Cranberries, Feta Cheese, and Braised Pork Belly with Hot Bacon Vinaigrette. 

The Second Course was Grilled Hangar Steak with Chimichurri, New Portato Dauphinoise and Carrots.

The wine paired for the Second course Château Lilian Ladouys St Estephe 2018

The Third Course was Bone-In Venison Chop with Roasted Butternut Sage Veloute’ Sauce over Parsnip Mash. 

The venison was brilliantly paired with Château Poesia Grand Cru St Emilion 2019. 

The Fourth and Final Course was Dark Chocolate Expresso Panna Cotta with Conconut and Raspberry Coulis. 

The Fourth Dessert Course was paired with Château Clos Junet Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2020

We certainly don’t need more wine for our cellar and thereby are selection in what we acquire these days as we work to consume our broad collection. As such while we do strive to support the venues that host such events, we don’t always feel compelled to acquire the wines. Never-the-less, we thought enough of the flight this evening that we purchased each of the selected wines to have for future consumption at our holiday home. 

https://www.thewinebarfl.com/tour-destin

Italian Dining at Clemenza’s Restaurant in Miramar Beach

Italian Dining at Clemenza’s Restaurant in Miramar Beach

When we told a friend and neighbor that we were heading to Destin/Miramar Beach Florida to visit our Cove vacation home getaway, he mentioned his recently departed dear friend and former neighbor that moved there a while back and opened a restaurant. 

He credited his old friend Dominic Damiano with not only introducing him to his wife, but finding his eventual family home, and, talked about them playing polo together in the early days of our equestrian community here. 

The local Emerald Coast Magazine wrote that when “Dominic Damiano moved to the Emerald Coast in 2008, life was almost perfect except he couldn’t find good Italian food. His group of friends and family who had moved from different parts of Italy to Destin, also missed the flavors of home, so they decided to open their own restaurant, Fat Clemenza’s, and do what they do best — serve up recipes passed down for generations”. 

Fat Clemens’s Restaurant is named for the legendary chef/cook in the Godfather movie series, the restaurant was in many ways modeled after Tufano’s which he owned in an Italian neighborhood in Chicago. 

“It’s important to me to stay true to tradition and heritage, which is why we import a lot of ingredients,” said Damiano. “I want customers to experience these dishes as my family would, to feel like part of the family when here.” 

“The eggplant parmigiana.is made from Damiano’s grandmother’s recipe, the Fresh Fish special is caught locally.  The olive oils, pasta, tomatoes, flour and seasonings are imported from Italy. Twice a week, a shipment of sausage arrives from Chicago. All other ingredients, especially seafood, is sourced locally.” 

So, we made it a point to dine at the restaurant, almost walking distance, from our vacation home, certainly within biking distance as we rode past it earlier in the week on our way to the post office. 

The extensive menu features Italian fare, wood fired pizzas, calzones, a broad selection of two dozen pasta dishes, and a variety of traditional Italian meat dishes. Naturally, we ordered Italian Chef’s Specialties from the menu - Linda the Pasta Shells in Marinara Sauce, and I ordered a benchmark staple, Veal Parmiagana with Pasta. Both were delicious, served promptly, piping hot in ample portions. 

Stuffed Shells - Large shells stuffed with ricotta & served with choice of sauce.

Veal baked in a marinara sauce with mozzarella and parmesan served with Angel hair pasta.

For a wine accompaniment with our entrees, we ordered two wines by the glass - WBTG - from the modest, limited but carefully selected wine list featuring seventeen reds and a dozen whites, predominantly Italian.

When I inquired about whether they had a Brunello Di Montalcino our server came by with one select bottle. It was premium priced, beyond our basic moderate meal, so we opted for two glasses of Italian staples. 

From the wine selection, displayed on the counter adjacent the kitchen, separating the dining rooms, I had a glass of the Zingari Tuscan Blend. 

Petra Zingari Tuscan Red Wine 2019

Zingari Toscana Rosso is an ambitious project headed by the father and daughter team of Vittorio and Fancesca Moretti, through Gruppo Terra Moretti, the wine empire of the Lombard developer Vittorio Moretti, which extends over several vineyards, run by his daughter Francesca. 

Moretti is based at the southernmost tip of the province of Livorno in the hills of the Val di Cornia. In the vineyards, red varieties are cultivated on rich soils - among them the Tuscan flagship varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but also some Syrah and Alicante. The slopes of the Petra vineyard are also planted with white Malvasia, Trebbiano, Clarette and Vermentino varieties which are intended for sweet wines.

The Moretti's are known for producing some of Italy's best sparkling wines, but we are constantly drawn back to this Super Tuscan blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah and Petit Verdot from their vineyards in the Tuscan Coastal area of Val di Cornia.  The Petra estate has a special ecosystem, warm climate and soils in the green belt of the Colline Metallifere, near the Montioni Natural Park, with the Poggio Tre Cancelli Natural Reserve, up to the Sterpaia Coastal Park, looking over the Tyrrhenian Sea. 

The wine gets its name and traces its roots to an ancient water spring that was a stop-over for pilgrims and wayfarers who were travelling along the Aurelia Street, hence the name Zingari (Gipsies), that would seek refreshment by resting near its crystal clear waters

This label release is a uniqueTuscan blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Syrah. It was awarded 90 points by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator who also granted it #29 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019.

Winemaker Notes - “Highly concentrated ruby color, which introduces the Mediterranean aromatic notes of this wine. Soft and full-bodied in mouth, it has a fresh flavor with good acidity and a structure with balsamic and mineral notes that make Zingari pleasant and interesting.” 

Wine Spectator refers to “flavors of  tomato leaf, juniper and sanguine notes”. Danielle Callegari of Wine Enthusiast cites  “A reduced nose of freshly poured tar and sulfur meets a luxurious contrast of muddled raspberry and strawberry, before hints of top soil and tobacco emerge …. turns to fresher red fruit, mostly cherry, with soil and gravel,” and calls it “Linear but substantial tannins and a firm backbone of acid work well together.”

Bright Ruby colored, medium bodied, a bit disjointed cacophony of with somewhat obtuse bright forward black cherry and plum fruits with notes of bramble, cedar earthiness, tobacco and bright acid with modest gripping tannins. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4082308

To accompany Linda’s Ricotta cheese stuffed shells with Marinara Sauce, we ordered a glass of the Aziano Ruffino Chianti Classico Sangiovese. 

Aziano Ruffino Chianti Classico 2021

Vibrant and inviting. The Sangiovese based wines of the Chianti Classico regions are characterized by notes of sweet violet, red berries and wild cherries with slightly spicy undertones

Ruffino dates back to 1877 when cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino, hailing from Tuscany, establishing a small winery in the town of Pontassieve near Florence, the region with a centuries-old tradition of growing exceptional wine grapes. 

The area is known for ideal terroir for producing wines -  mineral-laden soils, the cooling influence of the Mediterranean Sea, the dry summers that favor wine grapes, and sun-drenched hills. 

Ruffino became known for clean, balanced wines, adopting the motto “here we make ideal wine.” After the Second World War, Ruffino purchased the first of its Tuscan estates, the Villa di Montemasso in the Chianti Classico region. Ruffino continued to invest in new vineyards and became one of the first major wineries with vineyard estates in Italy's three most renowned wine-producing regions: Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. 

Ruffino Chianti has become a benchmark for Tuscan wines around the world. When Chianti first became recognized as a DOCG wine in 1984, Ruffino Chianti DOCG was awarded the first warranty strip. 

Today, more than 140 years after its founding and more than 90 years after the release of Riserva Ducale, Ruffino is a global leading brand. Ruffino's approach to making wine is based on their top vineyard sites, carefully managed vines and yields to produce the best quality of fruit. 

This is the entry level every day wine of a broad portfolio that addresses every price point and provides tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratio, perfectly paired to complement the tangy pasta dish. 

Winemaker’s Notes -  “Ruby red. Vibrant and inviting. The Sangiovese based wines of the Chianti Classico regions are characterised by notes of sweet violet, red berries and wild cherries with slightly spicy undertones. The finish reveals hints of aromatic herbs. Fruity and harmonious, the taste reveals velvety tannins and an elegant texture. A long and persistent aftertaste characterizes this wine.”

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, vibrant expressive, smooth and nicely balanced red berry fruits with tangy spice and hints of tobacco and sweet mocha chocolate. Very pleasant. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4675098

https://fatclemenzas.com/

https://www.fatclemenzasmenu.com/?utm_source=gbp

Gulf view dining at Camille’s Crystal Beach

Gulf view dining at Camille’s Crystal Beach Restaurant

Vacationing at The Cove, our vacation home getaway in Destin (FL), we love it that we’re walking distance to nearly a dozen restaurants. Tonight we walked down the beach boulevard to Camille’s Crysal Beach Restaurant for Gulf front sunset dining. We timed our dinner and walk to enjoy the sunset enroute to the restaurant which opened shortly thereafter. 

Camille’s at Crystal Beach is located on the Scenic 98 beachfront highway at Crystal Beach, down the street from our community/enclave. Camille’s is upstairs above Camille’s Cafe located on the ground level, a popular trendy gathering place that offers coffee, breakfast, lunch and cocktails and features popular live music on the sidewalk opposite the beach walk. 

Founded in 2003 by Charles Morgan, Camille’s at Crystal Beach was named after Morgan’s grandmother and mother, referred to as Big Camille and Little Camille, respectively, two women who made a great impact on him. 

Camille’s is a sister restaurant to Harbor Docks Seafood Market that sources the freshest possible Gulf seafood that is caught in local waters by local fisherman and unloaded right on the dock, to a dozen local restaurants, ensuring a ‘Gulf to Table’ experience. The Catch of the Day is served blackened, grilled or fried. 

Besides the local fresh catch, they’re known for their sushi prepared by Executive Sushi Chef Yoshie Eddings who is well known internationally as having catered to an A-list celebrity clientele. Eddings trains all of the sushi staff at Camille’s and at the sister restaurant locations, maintaining the highest quality and standards possible to ensure that each bite will be the freshest and most delectable possible. 

We dined on the small outside veranda that overlooks the beach rode and Gulf beach opposite, at sunset for a colorful dusk sky. 

As a starter we shared the house salad which we delicious - mixed greens, grape tomatoes, figs, roasted pecans, bacon, goat cheese, house croutons, creamy vinaigrette.

Tonight, the daily fresh catch was Grouper or Red Snapper. We ordered for our main course from the menu the regular feature, Macadamia Nut Encrusted Snapper with blood orange cream, butternut squash medley, bacon & toasted coconut risotto. It was delicious. 

Additionally, we ordered the Jumbo Lump Crabcakes which were a bit disappointing seeming less than fresh or slightly fishy.

With dinner we ordered to two WBTG - Wines By The Glass, from the modest and limited wine list two glasses, a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc. 

Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 

Raeburn Winery hails from the Russian River Valley in west Sonoma County. Its name originates from Olde English meaning the stream where one drinks - apropos for a wine crafted in this unique watershed which provides habitat for grapes and creatures alike. “A fitting nod to those who prefer to slow down to observe, appreciate and flourish in nature’s surroundings,” says Derek Benham, owner. 

Raeburn Wines are the handiwork of owner/winemaker Derek Benham, inspired by his mother, Phyllis Benham, who preached to “appreciate nature’s gifts, but ‘to leave well enough alone’”. Benham takes that approach when making wine, a task made easier because he selects grapes from Sonoma County’s finest vineyards and carefully crafts wines. “Rather than engineer, we guide the grapes toward the best version of themselves.”

This cool, marine-influenced region is perfectly suited to exceptionally flavored Chardonnay. Fresh layers of green apple, and pear are accented by a creamy richness due to sur lie aging. A glass of Raeburn Chardonnay is the start to a beautiful friendship. - Derek Benham, Owner.. 

Raeburn produce Sonoma County AVA wines but source grapes not only from the Russian River Valley, but also Monterey, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, Sonoma Carneros, Dry Creek Valley and small amounts from Lodi and San Benito County.

This Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay was crafted from our winemaker’s favorite vineyard lots in the Russian River Valley and aged for 11 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak barrels; the result is a supremely structured and flavorful wine that offers an elevated expression of Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay.

Winemaker notes - “Raeburn Rassian River Valley Chardonnay is a nod to classic California Chardonnay—elegant and expressive with bright fruit character, creaminess and toasty vanilla.”

It was rate 89 points by Wine Spectator. 175,000 cases were made

Golden straw colored, light medium bodied, peach and citrus flavors with notes of mango and vanilla on a tangy finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://raeburnwinery.com/

Black Cottage New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Black Cottage estate and vineyards are situated along the Marlborough’s Ōpaoa River, owned by founder Dave Clouston and crafted by Winemaker Sanna Stander. They produce sustainable New Zealand wines sourced from select parcels from Marlborough, Central Otago and Hawke’s Bay. Their portfolio offers moderately priced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris whites, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot reds, and a Rose’.

This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from the New Zealand Wairau & Awatere valleys.

Producer’s notes - “This year’s vintage is one of the finest in the last ten years. A cool summer allowed the grapes to ripen gently and evenly and show concentrated and distinctive flavours, The nature of this season allowed for optimal picking decisions. Our Sauvignon Blanc is vibrant and expressive in character, with refreshing acidity and a refined structure on the palate. We achieve maximum fruit purity and varietal character through cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks, aged on lees for 2 months to add texture and complexity.’

Producer’s Tasting notes: “Pale straw in colour, this sauvignon blanc has a complex nose of paw paw, passionfruit, pineapple and a touch of cut grass and crushed herbs. The juicy palate is packed full of tropical fruits and lime zest with a hint of sweet pea and crunchy red capsicum. Good balance and refreshing acidity complete this expressive wine.”

Light straw colored, light bodied, crisp acidity highlights zesty citrus and stone fruits.

RM 87 points. 

 
https://www.blackcottagewines.co.nz/

https://www.camillesatcrystalbeach.com/

Premium birthyear Napa Reds for family celebration

 Premium birthyear Napa Reds for family celebration 

The extended family gathered at son Ryan’s and D-in-law Michelle’s for a celebration of kids/grandkids’ Marleigh and Reid’s First Communion and Ryan’s upcoming birthday.

Ryan and Michelle served beef tenderloin, pasta a pizza followed by celebration cake. We took chips and a cheese dip as a starter which was served with a selection of artisan cheeses.

Ryan served Bollinger Champagne and a medley of reds from his cellar; Bollinger Champagne NV, and L’Aventura Paso Robles Cabernet.  

With the entree course, ideally paired with the beef tenderloin were two ultra-premium Napa Cabernets from the birthyear vintages of the two kids/grandkids honored today, from two producers we know well and from whom we hold extensive collections in our respective cellars. 

Venge Vineyards Bone Ash Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Another wine from the Venge portfolio that we’ve featured several times recently in these pages including another family dinner last weekend. 

I wrote in that blogpost more about Venge and our visits with Nils at the Penny Lane Family Reserve Vineyard in Oakville, and driving up to meet Kirk at the Rossini Ranch site in the eastern foothills of Palisade Mountain near Calistoga back in 2002.

This ultra-premium, flagship Cabernet Sauvignon is a single vineyard designated label sourced from the Venge Calistoga Estate “Bone Ash Vineyard”, which is second of the three estate vineyards they own and farm in Napa Valley. 

Like their Oakville Estate and our Calistoga Estate Signal Fire Vineyard, the vines are dry-farmed with vines averaging 25+ years in age with vines’ roots established very deep which allows for minimal irrigation. The resulting struggle makes for wines with excellent flavor, body and overall complexity.

This release was aged 19 months in 85% new French oak. 

Jeb Dunnuck gave this release 97 points while Virginia Boone at Wine Enthusiast gave it 95 points. 

While we hold many Venge wines dating back decades, this was my first tasting of this label to my recollection. 

This was spectacular with blackish inky purple color, full bodied, round rich concentrated yet smooth and polished blue and blackberry fruits accented by harmonious notes of mocha, cassis and hints of clove spice, tea and espresso with ripe silky tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2568964

https://www.vengevineyards.com/

https://twitter.com/vengevineyards

Hall Winery & Vineyards Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

We huge fans of Hall Wines and have a collection of fifteen different labels, not counting different vintages, of their wines, yet amazingly, we no longer hold this label. 

We’ve visited the magnificent Hall Napa Valley Rutherford Estate Winery and Caves back in 2013, then again in 2017.

We’re also huge fans of Napa Valley Howell Mountain Appellation wines, so we were excited to try this release of this appellation label from this producer. 

Napa Valley's Howell Mountain is located atop the steep slopes rising to the east of St. Helena on the northern portion of the Vaca Mountain range and holds the distinction of being the first mountain appellation approved in Napa in 1983. The elevation of the appellation, ranging from 1200 to 2600 feet, significantly influences the grapes grown here. Notably, 1200 feet is the highest elevation and demarcation point that the valley fog rises up the mountain. Also, the steep slopes afford drainage and more sun exposure contributing to ripe rich concentrated grapes. 

The Howell Mountains altitude vineyards are above the fog line, allowing for more sunlight hours, resulting in deep, dark color and concentration. Additionally, temperatures tend to be warmer than in the southern mountain appellations of Atlas Peak and Mount Veeder where they get some impact from the San Pablo Bay’s marine effects wafting up from the south. 

Howell Mountain’s high elevation soils consist of volcanic soil, and the second soil type is the ‘Aiken series’ which is a red clay high in iron, both being rocky and nutrient poor that produces exceptionally intense wines from small clusters and berries.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be deep, concentrated and intense fruit with highlights of dark chocolate and clove and cinnamon spices, with potent, well-integrated tannins. 

This release was awarded a stellar 99 points by Wine Advocate and 94 points by Vinous International Wine Cellar. 

Wine Advocate called the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ‘exquisite’. 

Dark blackish inky purple colored, full bodied with intense, concentrated, vibrant black berry fruits accented by a sharp edge with sprites of smoke, crème de cassis, dark bittersweet chocolate, hints of pepper, menthol and licorice. This needs a bit more time and it will probably continue to integrate and soften over another decade of aging. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2289050

https://www.hallwines.com/

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 1982

Continuing the tradition of collecting and enjoying celebratory birth year vintage wines, for his birthday and the festive gathering, I took Ryan, from our cellar, a bottle of his birthyear vintage port. 

This Quinta do Noval is one of the oldest historic port houses, distinctive in that most of the ports are crafted from estate-grown fruit from the single Quinta do Noval vineyard. 

The historic Noval estate is mentioned in land registries going back to 1715, and has been sold just twice in that time, once in the late 19th century, and then to its present owners in 1993. 

Noval has a reputation for innovation such as being the first to introduce stenciled bottles in the 1920s. They pioneered the concept of Old Tawnies with an indication of age, and in 1958, Noval was the first to introduce a late-bottled vintage (LBV).

They are famously known for their Nacional label made in declared vintages from a 6 acre parcel of ungrafted vines. When declared, the highly allocated 200-300 cases of Nacional are some of the most sought after port in the world. 

The terraced vineyards of Noval are perched above the Douro and Pinhao rivers, ranging in elevation from just above river level to 1,200 feet with infertile schist, not soil as much as sheer rock.

We’ll look forward to enjoying this together some time in the future. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=95619

https://www.quintadonoval.com/

St Emilion Grands Crus Association visits Chicago

St Emilion Grands Crus Association visits Chicago 

As we do with the UGCB Vintage Release Tour when it comes to Chicago each year for their annual release tour across America, a couple of our Pour Boys wine group (so named for when we’re called to duty to pour wines as such events) had the privilege of helping host the L’Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion USA Tasting Tour 2024 visit to Chicago. 

The Association focuses primarily on the quality of the wines produced over ten years, vineyard terroir, and the renown of the growths. It also examines vine-growing and wine-making practices, especially when dealing with environmental care. 

The 2024 Trade and Press Tour showcased the 2020 vintage - one of the most successful vintages in St. Emilion with its “explosion of flavors and pleasure”.

A fortuitous and interesting twist to this tasting was that each producer showed two vintages, comparing their current release against an earlier vintage, going back as far as a decade - often aged or stellar benchmark vintages such as the 2015, ‘15, or ‘17. 

Being single appellation specific, the event was much smaller than the 130+ producers that participate in the broader Bordeaux organization event, yet there were no less than twenty-six Chateaux represented at the event.

As it was previously, when we  Pour Boys Served at the Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting, the event was held at the magnificent Venue Six10, at that address on South Michigan Avenue overlooking Grant Park and the lakefront. Shown above are producers from that previous event. 

Participating CHÂTEAUX Included:

• CHÂTEAU BADETTE
• CHÂTEAU BELLEFONT BELCIER
• CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE
• CHÂTEAU CHAUVIN
• CLOS DE L'ORATOIRE
• CLOS DES JACOBINS
• CHÂTEAU LA COMMANDERIE
• CLOS DUBREUIL
• CHÂTEAU CORBIN
• COUVENT DES JACOBINS
• CHATEAU CROIX DE LABRIE
• CHATEAU DASSAULT
• CHÂTEAU DE PRESSAC
• CHÂTEAU FOMBRAUGE - 
• CHÂTEAU FONPLEGADE
• CHÂTEAU FONROQUE
• CHÂTEAU FRANC MAYNE
• CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN
• CHÂTEAU GRAND CORBIN-DESPAGNE - 
• CHÂTEAU LA CONFESSION -
• CHÂTEAU LA CROIZILLE
• CHÂTEAU TOUR BALADOZ
• CHÂTEAU LA TOUR FIGEAC
• CHÂTEAU YON-FIGEAC

The event was attended by a full house of wine professionals and journalists from across the region. 

Right Bank Bordeaux 2020 was an ideal vintage for Merlot based wines that showed exquisitely, displaying concentrated rich, vibrant bright ripe red and dark brambly fruits. 

We appreciate the efforts of the L’Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion and participating producers for coming to visit us here in the Midwest and share with us their handicraft, and sharing and educating the trade and pundits on the recent release.