Pour Boys Winers & Diners 2023 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner
Our
'Pour Boys' wine group gathered prior to the Indy 500 race weekend in Chicago
and were hosted by Lyle and Terry for their customary 'Winers &
Diners' CityScape beef tenderloin dinner.
As usual, it was a wonderful evening of friends and fellowship that included an
extraordinary dinner and wine experience with a broad extensive selection of fabulous wines
featuring some new labels and old cellar favorites. The gathering pulled together an extraordinary, spectacular selection of fine wines for the tasting - two rated 100 points and five rated 95 points or higher.
The
group were joined by 'Champagne John' who brought his customary
spectacular sparklers, a pair of ultra-premium vintage labels, and
Steve, who brought his usual ultra-premium vintage Borgogne.
This
year we were joined by newcomer Pour Boy, Tom C, who joined the Pour
Boys in their traditional wine-pouring duties at the UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023 tasting in January. Tom and Lisa brought a trio of premium
Borgogne Chardonnays.
Host and hostess Lyle and Terry prepared
their usual extensive fabulous dinner with Lyle grilling scallops and
beef tenderloins, accompanied with escalloped potatoes and asparagus
wrapped in prosciutto.
The Hor'd Ovres and starter courses before
dinner included a broad selection of shrimp cocktail, grilled scallops,
an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, with fresh vegetables, fruits
and nuts, deviled eggs and more. The soup course included Vichysoiss
with fresh baked biscuits.
The Champagne course included a pair of
vintage Billecart-Salmon vintage Champagnes brought by John, the Elisabeth
Salmon Cuvée 2008 and Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006. Ernie added a Veuve
Clicquot Gold label.
Billecart-Salmon Champagnes
The Champagne
House of Billecart-Salmon dates back to 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and
Elisabeth Salmon were married, a family story from the beginning with Louis
Salmon, brother of Elisabeth, a talented oenologist, overseeing the creation of the wines. Continuing the family
tradition for seven generations,
they remain faithful to the motto: "Give priority to
quality, strive for excellence".
The champagnes of Maison
Billecart-Salmon are created from the estate of 240 acres, and sourcing
grapes from an area totaling 750 acres across 40 crus of the Champagne
region.
The majority of the grapes used for vinification come
from a radius of 20km around the village of Epernay along the Marne River
at the bottom of the Champagne region. There the Grand Crus of Pinot
Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay flourish in the vineyards of the Montagne
de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.
We toured the region and vineyards during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006.
Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé Champagne 2008
The 2008 Billecart-Salmon “Cuvée Elisabeth”
is named for the founder matriarch. This Rosé Champagne is made mostly from Grand Cru vineyards, but it is the
1'er Cru that goes into it that makes it so special.
The blend includes about 10 percent red wine that
gives this rosé its color that comes from a small plot of 80-year-old Pinot
Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ called the Valofroy. This parcel, adjacent to the
Clos des Goisses faces due south and directly down at the Marne.
The
production from this ancient site is the limiting factor for the
production of this rare tête de cuvée.
The wine is composed of 55% Pinot
Noir and 45% Chardonnay to which is added the old vine Pinot red wine that makes up about 10% of the
total that gives this wine its
color.
The 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé was awarded 98 points by James Suckling and Decanter, 97 points
by Wine Advocate and Vinous, 96 points
by Wine Enthusiast,
and 94 points
by both
Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator.
Wine Advocate says "the 2008 Brut Rosé
Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is one of the finest wines I've tasted from
Billecart in recent years."
Dark orange copper colored, full-bodied, silky texture and complex, super dry intense layered
flavours of cherry,
strawberry and nectarine with notes of clove and cinnamon spice on the long, elegant harmonious
finish.
RM 93 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901361Billecart-Salmon Champagne Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006
This is a unique classic single varietal Blanc de Noirs cuvée that bears the name of the Patron Saint of
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This source Clos (vineyard) is a mere two acres that meets strict standards: a
single, unbroken and enclosed plot planted like a garden in the middle of the Billecart property in
Mareuil. The vines are all old massals that were planted in 1964.
Only one press load of this 100% Pinot Noir
was made for a total production of 3,700 bottles, the
wine is completely barrel fermented, and dosed at just 2 grams per
liter. This is a profound wine that ages 13 years on the lees rendering immense concentration and power.
Although it was disgorged in November 2020, winemaster Mathieu Roland
Billecart held on and delayed the release, ageing post
disgorgement that he cites "is just as important as that before it and sometimes
overlooked".
The 2006 Billecart-Salmon "Le Clos Saint-Hilaire" Brut Blanc de Noirs Champagne was awarded
98 points
by Vinous, 95 points
by Wine Advocate, and 93 points
by Decanter.Vinous writes, "The 2006 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is fabulous. In this radiant
year, the Clos Saint-Hilaire has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and
generosity, but that’s a good thing, as it balances some of the more
austere leanings that can make young vintages hard to appreciate upon
release. Apricot, lemon confit, ginger, graphite, spice and crushed
rocks are strands in a gorgeous, captivating tapestry that dazzles right
out of the gate. The precision here is just mind-blowing. Billecart's
2006 Clos Saint-Hilaire is a very special Champagne."
Golden rust
colored, full-bodied, powerful, layered
and vinous, complex, concentrated, muscular with aromas of pear and plum,
dried red cherry fruits, hints of brioche and nuts and spices with racy
acids on a long, finish.
RM 93 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4209557
https://www.champagne-billecart.fr/en
Dan
brought a pair of dessert wines for the cheese and salad course, a
Sauterne Premiere Grand Cru Classe, and a label Yellow Muscat he acquired
and brought from Slovenia.
Château Rabaud-Promis Premiere Gran Cru Classe 2009 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend
The
Rabaud-Promis castle lies opposite Chateau d'Yquem on the hill Rabaud
and dates back to the late eighteenth century. The
estate vineyards dating back to the birth of Sauterne surround the house
on the gentle slopes.
Premier cru classified in 1855, Chateau
Rabaud-Promis was bought in 1950 by Louis Raymond Lanneluc. Today, the
property is family managed by
Michele and Philippe Dejean and his son Thomas, representing the 9th
generation of winemakers in Sauternes.
Winemaker Notes - Full and
intense, this vintage envelops you in its aromas of honeyed yellow
fruit, apricot jam, quince paste, exotic fruit with a hint of lemon
balm.
This was rated 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93points by Wine Spectator.
Dark
golden colored full bodied, rich, thick and unctuous with intense
bouquet and flavors of pear, zesty orange and peach and with spicy honey
and roasted nut on a persistent long acidic finish.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=894124
Rodica Truške, Istria, Slovenia Rumeni (Yellow) Muscat 2016
Dr Dan acquired this wine traveling to the region and brought back to share with our wine group.
From the Producer - "The
Rodica Family Organic Winery is located in the heart of Slovenian
Istria, in the village of Truške near Marezige above Koper. The wine
cellar lies on top of a hill overlooking the sea of the Gulf of Trieste
and the unspoiled nature of the Dragonja River. The vineyards are spread
on the southern slopes of the Istrian hills at an altitude of 250 to
350 m. We cultivate 60,000 vines on 15 hectares, planted mainly with
indigenous varieties of Refosco, Malvasia, and Yellow Muscat, as well as
others, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Pinot Gris'. "The lands on which we have planted our vines were abandoned and overgrown for the past 50 years. Planted in poor, shallow soil, the vines grow modestly. By showing great respect for nature, thus, we grow great-tasting, healthful grapes from which we produce healthful and strong wines that reflect the character of our wine-growing district."
From US Distributor Vinum - "In 1998, Marinko Rodica, a car mechanic by trade, decided to start a new chapter in his life and became a winemaker. 10 years later, in 2008 Rodica family winery had sixty thousand vines and was certified organic. The brand new environmentally friendly and energy efficient wine cellar was completed in 2012. None of this would be possible without Marinko’s vision and passion and the support of his entire family. Today, Rodica estate organically farms 15 hectars of vineyards, with most of them planted with Malvasia and Refošk.:
Classification: Sweet white wine
Varietals: 100% Rumeni Muskat (yellow muscat)
Appellation: Truške, Istria, Slovenia
Annual Production: 5,000 bottles
Climate: Mild Mediterranean, with dry and hot summers, and mild winters.
Terrain: The picturesque hills near Marezige and Truške are located 5 km from the Adriatic sea, more specifically the Gulf of Trieste. Rodica family vineyards are planted at 250-350 meters asl, terraced, facing South. They enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, constant breezes, which keeps the vineyards well-ventilated and naturally healthy for organic farming. The soil is rich with minerals, consisting predominantly of limestone. The vines are forced to “fight” to get water, which results in better quality grapes.
Vinification: After de-stemming the grapes are macerated with the pulp and skins for just a few hours and spontaneous fermentation begins. The wine is then transferred into stainless steel tanks where it continues controlled fermentation process. Matured for 6 months in 2,500-liter acacia barrels and bottled unfiltered.
Tasting Notes: From Merchant MrDWine - "Our favorite Slovenian sweet wine, period! This wine combines the typical floral, honeyed lemon peel aromatics of yellow muscat with gorgeous acidity and earthiness. It offers so much more than a regular sweet wine. Beautiful pine notes on the nose, light freshness and mineral texture on the palate. Enjoy chilled with not-so-sweet desserts, or just by itself."
Note - This label was not listed among the nearly 5 million labels in Cellartracker. I added it to the collection. Its hard and rare to find a label not already listed in their massive database.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4668723
https://www.rodica.si/en
For the transition from sweet wines and Champagne to the whites, Ernie brought this 2017 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc.
d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc 2017
This is an exotic dry white wine that could be considered the 'second wine' of famed ultra-premium producer Château d'Yquem.
This is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. 80% of the
blend was aged in used Yquem barrels with 20% new oak.
This release was rated 98 points by James Suckling, 95 by points
Wine Spectator, 94 by points
Decanter, 92 points by
Vinous, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson, the same she gave to the grand vin.
Light silver straw colored, full bodied, crisp, seductive, exotic dry white with dense rich notes of tropical fruits - peach, mango, pineapple, yellow apple and lemon peel, with fine acidity on the smooth balanced finish.
RM 93 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3095929
With
the salads and soup course we enjoyed this trio of Michel
Colin-Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet Burgundies brought by Tom and Lisa.
Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2015From the original domaine located in Chassagne-Montrachet, founded in 1950, Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger was
created in 1987 by Michel Colin-Deléger, the nephew of the great Georges Deléger.
Michel Colin inherited part of the Chevenottes
vineyard, combining it with holdings from the Colin family’s domaine.
The 2015 vintage was Michel's last, as he finally retired after a
stellar career in which he vinified some of the most esteemed climats of the Côte de Beaune.
Michel semi-retired in 2003, passing on his vineyard holdings to sons Philippe and Bruno Colin.
Until his full retirement twelve years later in 2015, he continued to farm
three small parcels, producing just a handful of barrels per year:
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru.
Though the quantities were small, the mature master vigneron produced Chardonnay’s that represented the domaine's greatest
terroirs. All three vineyards are within a stone’s throw of one another, with
En Remilly just around the corner on the south side of Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny
Les Demoiselles
on the northern edge of Le Montrachet.
Michel Colin-Deléger continues to works with his sons,
Philippe and Bruno to produce a notable portfolio of premium white wines.
Colin-Deleger
owns nearly 50 acres of vineyards in the vicinity of
Chassagne-Montrachet. These include the well-known Le Demoiselle,
Puligny Premiers Crus La Tryufer, battery-Montrachet and
Chevalier-Montrachet, from a crop from which the farm produce great
wines with a fruity aroma and complex, full-bodied taste.
Currently
Michel Colin is almost retired, handing the business over to the sons,
but continues to control a limited edition wines of the most valuable
vineyards - Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet
Premiers Crus An Remiyi and Puligny-Montrachet Premiers Crus Les
Demoiselle .
Distributor notes - Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly has a brilliant yellow-gold
visual aspect. Its nose is expressive, exhaling floral aromas with light
buttery notes. There is beautiful substance on the palate, with a light
richness and fairly marked acidity.
Pale straw coloredm
medium bodied, concentrated, almost rich flavors of delicate peach, pear
and a touch of lemon, white stone fruits with hint of sweetness.
RM 91
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2585993The interim pivot to the 'big reds' was filled by Steve's classic Vosne-Romanée Burgundy.
Domaine François Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 2014
Of course, the commune in the Côte-d'Or department in
Bourgogne-Franche-Comté produces the region's, perhaps the world's most
celebrated wines, all made entirely from the Pinot Noir grape.
While
the appellation is known for the dynastic monopoly of four of the six
grandest of grand crus, the village has at least forty growers that also
comprise and share its vineyards. The wines produced from the vineyards are diverse
but generally considered to be rich, silky and well balanced, with a
complexity which surpasses many of the other wines of Burgundy.
Wines
from the famous village include several renowned premier cru level producers, aside the
villages sensational and legendary six grand crus: Romanée-Conti, La
Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and La Grande Rue.
While
the Premiers Crus do not command the same prices as their grand cru
neighbours, the village is home to many outstanding premier cru wines.
Besides the legendary plots, the top vineyards include Les Gaudichots, Les Malconsorts, Les Suchots,
Cros Parantoux, Les Chaumes, and Clos des Réas.
A stand-alone
Pinot Noir, this was one of the standouts of the evening with bright
vibrant, elegant and harmonious fruits, although Steven had to pinch
himself as he couldn't believe I was saying so!
Bright
ruby colored, medium bodied, aromas and flavors fresh bright vibrant
strawberry, cherry and
slighter subdued fruits of blackberry, accented by notes of spice and
hints of tobacco and leather finishing with elegant smooth polished fine
tannins.
RM 94 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2750048We then moved to the entree course of beef tenderloin and the Bordeaux varietal reds.
We
invariably spend time at the beginning of each evening, setting up the tasting, sampling the wines so as
to serve them properly in order, from lighter to heavier or bolder. The
placement occurs and then is fine tuned throughout the evening as the
wines open up and reveal their character and profiles.
It was through
this tuning that the St Estephe revealed itself and moved up front of
the other Bordeaux, showing itself to be especially approachable and elegantly
polished.
Château Cos d' Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 2009
I
started to write that this stand-out wine emerged as one of the stars
of the evening, but then when I researched its rating and ranking, I
realized that it was wholly noted and recognized to be deserving of
such. Leave it to John to produce a (not-so) hidden gem of the evening.
The ever modest John noted that this vintage release showed as well as the legendary 2005 vintage, and he was right on.
Ernie
and I reminisced about the impressive majestic and commanding Château
with its gates overlooking the bages (right) as one turns the corner on the road climbing
the hill into Saint Estephe from Pauillac.
We were both visiting
the region during the time that Château Lynch Bages was under
construction, and we were directed to visit the Château de Pez estate
immediately opposite Cos d'Estournel. In fact, Ernie ended staying there
at the Château during his visit.
The 2009 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe was ranked 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and
Wine Advocate. It also received 98 points
by James Suckling,
and 97 points
by Wine Spectator. This is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2%
Cabernet Franc.
Dark deep inky garnet colored, full-bodied,
while massive
on the palate, it's elegance and flawless polish and balanced presented
a remarkably approachable pleasurable drinking wine, plum, red currant
and blackberry fruits with classic Saint-Estèphe notes of dried tobacco,
creosote, earthy spices, and licorice with subtle graphite on silky
smooth plush tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and
very
spicy.
Clearly this was the best, and most memorable Cos I have ever tasted from the dozen or so vintages that I have had. I'll relish my collection with more reverence, and attention, going forward.
RM 96 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874488
https://www.estournel.com/en/
Ernie
telegraphed he was bringing an 'older' Lynch Bages (1993), so I pulled
from the cellar an aged vintage from the spectacular 1990 vintage to
compare. Lyle rounded out the mini-vertical with a recent release.
Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bodeaux, 1990, 1993, and 2018
As mentioned, Ernie
and I jousted with our reminiscences of visiting the Château and estate
vineyards on the outskirts of the commune of Pauillac during about the same time.
We've
both served Lynch Bages at the UGCB event and hold a vertical
collection of the label spanning (more than) three decades. Indeed, I am
hold a large double magnum of the label from the early nineties of
which we need to find a suitable occasion at which to serve.
1990 Lynch-Bages Pauillac I
violated one of my normal tenants and brought from our collection a
birth-year vintage wine from son Alec's birthyear collection, holding for a family event.
I found this wine
probably at its apex, the height of its drinking window, and likely to
start to diminish from age from this point forward. It was ideal to
pair and compare with the other vintage (s). As one of the oldest
vintages, I triple decanted this, allowing it to open, and it showed remarkably
well from the outset.
From a spectacular vintage, this is
another spectacular showing wine, this was awarded a near perfect 99
points by Wine Advocate. It also was awarded 96 points
by Vinous, 94 points
by Wine Spectator, and 93 points
by Int'l Wine Cellar. I should also note that Jancis Robinson
gave it 18.5 points on her 20 point scale. I should then note
that I personally find her twenty point scale more logical, rationale
and easier to manage, but the pack has taken commanded and the industry has subscribed to
the 100 point model.
Robert Parker wrote, "This magnificent Lynch Bages has been drinking well since the
day it was released and it continues to go from strength to strength.
The biggest, richest, fullest-bodied Lynch Bages until the 2000, the
fully mature 1990 exhibits an unbelievably explosive nose of black
currants, cedarwood, herbs and spice. The majestic, classically Bordeaux
aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, voluptuously textured, rich,
intense wine with superb purity as well as thrilling levels of fruit,
glycerin and sweetness."
On the same vintage
Vinous writes, "The 1990 Lynch-Bages remains the towering Pauillac it has always
been, even if Jean-Michel Cazes personally prefers the 1989. It has a
riveting, graphite-infused bouquet that is brilliantly defined, very
focused and sharp as a razor-blade. Poured directly against the 1990
Lafite-Rothschild, this Fifth Growth beats it hands down. ... this is an aristocratic Lynch-Bages with
impressive grip after 28 years (in 2019)."
Note the price I paid on release of this wine back in early nineties.
Dark
blackish garnet colored, full bodied, blackberry and black currant
fruits with notes of tar, herbs, spice, black tea, leather and hints of
cedar, turning to silky tannins on a long, long finish. Probably a bit past its prime but still showing well.
RM 92 points.
Its
a bit remarkable that this label has a 'three digit' number out of the
millions of labels now registered with Cellartracker in their vast database.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=451
1993 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
This release was awarded 91 points
by Wine Advocate and
90 points by
Int'l Wine Cellar.
Classic Pauillac Lynch Bages
profile, dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, blackberry and
black plum briary fruits with earthy leather and smoky, cigar box,
spice, cedar, anise and black tea notes on a moderate tannin laced
finish.
RM 90 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=31772
https://twitter.com/lynch_bages
@lynch_bages
Dan brought a Chateau Pichon (Longueville Comtesse) Lalande, so Lyle pulled from his cellar a vintage release to compare.
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 & 2014
Two
more spectacular wines. These were both markedly tight and somewhat
closed, perhaps, and likely in that awkward interim period of aging,
needing a couple more years to open and reveal their native character
and profile. Great to try and interesting tasting of one of my favorite
labels and a typically classic long lived Bordeaux wine.
This is one of my absolute favorite labels. Touring the grounds of the Château estate and vineyards was one of the highlights of our trip to the appellation in 2019. (below)
Château Pichon Lalande 2010
Another blockbuster wine with giant ratings, the 2010 Pichon-Lalande was also awarded 100 points by Decanter, 98 points
by Vinous, 96 points and "Cellar Selection" (one for long term aging)
by Wine Enthusiast, and 95 points
by Wine Spectator. This is why we do tastings and make note of how they are aging at various stages of their life!
One Cellartracker wrote in spring of 2013, "Too young to drink now, need years of further
cellaring to show its deep potential." He gave it 96 points!
Decanter wrote, "For me this is
getting better as it ages, starting to rival the 1982 at Comtesse, and I
can't wait to keep tasting it over the decades to come. Last time I
rated this wine, in 2016, I gave it 98 points, and I questioned whether
to keep it there, which is already an exceptional score, but I want to
mark just how clearly it stood out in this horizontal. (1/2020)
Vinous called it "An eternal wine, a total showstopper.
The first impression is one of explosive power, but time in the glass
brings out the wine’s more delicate, floral side. Violet, graphite,
crème de cassis, licorice and menthol overtones recall the 1996.
Wine Enthusiast writes that "a
stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than in the past,
making it more structured than its predecessors, with a dominance of
black currant flavor"
Classic Pichon Lalande tasting profile, dark
garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm, tight and a bit closed
surpressing that complex concentrated yet elegant and polished black
fruit with notes of black tea, cassis, graphite and tobacco leaf with hints of truffle and
anise on a firm lingering structured tannin finish.
RM 94 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1128959
Chateau Pichon Lalande 2014
Ditto
the comments on the 2010 above, very similar state, the 2014
Pichon-Lalande got monster ratings, awarded 97 points by Vinous, 95 points
by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points
and Cellar Selection
by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points, Wine Spectator, and 93 points
by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.
Vinous says "the 2014 Pichon Comtesse might very well be
the wine of the vintage on the Left Bank."
Dunnuck wrote: "deeply
colored (especially in the vintage) and delivers a heavenly bouquet of
crème de cassis, ripe plums, graphite, cedar pencil, roasted coffee, and
tons of building minerality and liquid rock-like nuances. Incredibly
pure, textured, full-bodied, and with a seamless integration of its
fruit, tannin, and acidity, it’s already approachable but will keep for
two to three decades."
Wine Enthusiast wrote, "It looks likely the wine will develop slowly, so don't drink
before 2025."
Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied,
classic Pauillac black fruits with Crème de cassis, licorice,
lavender, licorice and sweet spices with notes of cedar and graphite
turning to velvety-textured tannins on a long and flavorful finish.
RM 94 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2075299
https://twitter.com/PichonComtesse/
@PichonComtesse
Bill projected he was going to bring a Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, one of our favorites. Having just opened this label for my birthday dinner, the 2002, I was anxious to try another vintage, so I pulled from our cellar an aged vintage release to share and compare.
Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 & 2013
Bill and I have enjoyed a dozen vintages of this label over the years
and still hold as many in our cellars. We've visited the Robert Craig
estate up on Howell Mountain on numerous occasions including the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party 2009 (with Robert, right).
I couldn't resist but to bring this aged vintage inaugural
release of this legendary Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It was the 1994
release that Wine Spectator recognized in an article back then citing
the vintage and noting Robert Craig as an up and coming producer to
watch!. We were hooked and started collecting his wines and notably hold
every vintage since of at least one of his labels. And, its time to
drink them, so, tonight was an ideal occasion to open this classic label
with folks that would appreciate it.
1994 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Like the aged vintage Lynch Bages above, I also triple decanted this bottle as well.
While
showing its age and some diminution of the fruit and slight brickish
coloring, it was still in its drinking window and a notable pairing and
comparison with the same label, and similarly aged vintage releases of
the evening. This is what these broad tastings are all about, sharing and
comparing such labels and releases!
This release got 90 points
from both Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, both reviewed upon release back in 1997.
Dark blackish purple garnet colored, medium full bodied,
complex and concentrated Howell Mountain profile of black currant fruits
with hints of classic clove and cinnamon spices, notes of anise, leather
and lead pencil and a bit of cedar on a lingering tannin finish.
RM 90 points.
2013 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Winemaker notes ; "2013 was the perfect example of the stark differences between mountain
and valley vineyards in Napa. While valley floor yields were up 15-20%
overall, Howell Mountain was down 5%*. Why such a difference? The valley
saw mild weather during flower and fruit set, while the mountain had
cool, very windy conditions. The result was small, loose clusters with
tremendous structure, concentration and acid backbone."
Winemaker notes - While 2012 was a classic vintage for Howell Cabernet, 2013 raised the
bar. Fruit complexity is off the charts, with stunning acid and tannin
backbone. This wine, having spent two years in barrel and an additional
year in bottle is showing lovely, lush fruit in its youth, with classic
Howell bramble-berry fruit character framed by coffee, mineral and deep,
dark, mountain violet tones. Patience, however, will prove to be a
virtue: this wine will only get better with age. Cellar now for future
rewards.
"The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mt has an inky purple color that is
certainly as saturated as any in the impressive Robert Craig lineup.
This is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot with similar elevage as
the other wines. Beautifully sweet tannin, whole berry, blackberry and
graphite notes are present in this full-bodied, opulent, delicious
Howell Mt Cabernet Sauvingon. The color is an opaque purple, the wine
expansive, savory and impressive. Drink it over the next 20 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 12/30/15
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=49569
https://robertcraigwine.com/
https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine
@RobertCraigWine
Diamond Creek Napa Valley Red Rock Terrace Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Bill brought another spectacular label from a legendary producer. We Pour Boys
have visited the Diamond Creek estate on Diamond Mountain on numerous
occasions including when our group, Dan, Bill and we attended the vintage release tour there in 2015 (shown left and below). These are chronicled in these blog postings:
As above, we just recently opened a family birth year vintage of this same label from this same producer for a family birthday celebration recently, so I was eager to try this release as a comparison.
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/04/family-easter-and-birthday-celebration.html
Al and Boots Brounstein founded Diamond
Creek Vineyards in 1968. Al Brounstein was one of the first to produce
Bordeaux varietals in the Napa Valley Mountains back in the 1970's. He
was so captivated by the terroir of his Diamond Mountain property, from
the beginning he bottled each vineyard separately as its own designated
label. He was one of the first to do so, to recognize and memorialize each vineyard thusly.
The three vineyards Brounstein planted have
produced some of the most long-lived, elegant wines from the state of
California, wines that make the case "that Diamond Creek is the finest
producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in America," according to wine writer
Pierre DuMont.
This is from a seven-acre section of the vineyard estate,
Red Rock Terrace is a warm micro-climate on the lower reaches of the mountain, below the fog line and protected from the winds that sweep up from the San Pablo Bay, or in from the Pacific. It is seven acres of
iron-rich, north-facing vineyard on Diamond Mountain.
This vintage label release was awarded
94 points
by Wine Spectator, 93 points
by Wine Enthusiast. and 92 points
by Vinous.
Winemaker Notes: Our
winemaker describes Red Rock Terrace as "having velvety tannins, rich
and well balanced, medium dark ruby color with cherry, mint and black
currant flavors."
Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, pure, bright expressive black and red currant fruits with notes of earth, black licorice, anise and hints of cedar turning to silky smooth polished tannins on the moderate finish.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1622908
Pivoting between the Bordeaux varietals and the desserts, Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select, full bore Aussie Shiraz wine from his cellar.
Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008
We, the Pour Boys, discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Dagmar O'Neill.
Only 100 cases were produced. We manipulated/orchestrated a purchase of eight three
packs in OWC's (original wood cases), which was the entire allocation shipped to mid-America, which we split amongst the
wine team, pictured in this
blogspot feature.
Taking stock around the table, this was Bill's last bottle of that acquisition, Dan's is gone, and Ernie and I still hold one bottle each in our cellars.
Bill's notes from a tasting back in 2014 - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of
separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite,
minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a
Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."
And then again in 2018, "Almost 4 years exactly since I last tried this and still spectacular
with plenty of life still left. Deep, opaque, indigo color. Berry and a
bit of smoke on the nose. If anything, some of the roughness of the
spice has diminished ( but not by much), to be augmented by sweet,
blackberry and raspberry fruit. Spectacular!"
WCC 96 points.
Tonight, while this was a bit more subdued at fifteen years of age, its still a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have
been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a
thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue.
Full bodied, complex, concentrated,
full lingering tannins predominate
the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and
spice and spicy oak.
RM 92 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673
http://www.chateautanunda.com/
https://twitter.com/ChateauTanunda
@ChateauTanunda
Terry and Lyle served up their traditional medley of desserts including Terry's decadent Orange Cake, and Chocolate Profiteroles with fresh berries and whipped cream.
Ernie pulled out his signature ultra-premium Château d'Yquem Sauterne from his extensive broad vertical collection of the label that spans several decades.
To accompany the wine he brought a selection of carefully selection artisan cheeses, drizzles and roasted nuts, to showcase the wine. These were superb in a terrific pairing.
Château d'Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend Sauterne 2007
A special treat, as usual, this wine was exquisite, a spectacular pairing iwth the dessert and specially selected cheeses. This is 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, carefully selected from the most ardent and rigorous viticulture and harvesting.
When picking, they may pass through the vineyards more than two dozen times, in the middle of the night, when cool, to carefully hand select grape by grape, only those at perfect ripeness and brix (sweetness) levels to add to the blend.
This release was awarded 98 points
by Wine Advocate. 96 points
by Wine Spectator, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson.
Distributor notes: "Exquisite. Presents a lovely amber colour, reminiscent of a golden
sunset. The nose is an intoxicating blend of honey and apricots, a
bouquet that is mirrored in its taste. Additional layers of complexity
are revealed through notes of caramel, vanilla, and a hint of spice,
adding depth to the honeyed apricot core. The wine is beautifully
balanced, with a vibrant acidity that cuts through the sweetness,
leading to a long, luscious finish. It's a wine that truly engages all
the senses, leaving a lasting impression. Drinking very well already."
Deep orange golden colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich unctuous and elegantly smooth with notes of dried pineapple, candied honey mango and apricot, hints of grapefruit and lemon on a tongue coating finish.
RM 96 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=502174https://twitter.com/Yquem_Official
@Yquem_Official
As a closer with the chocolates and cheeses, I had this aged Vintage Port open at home from the other evening and brought it to share.
Guenoc & Langtry Estate Vineyards and Winery, Guenoc Valley Estate Vintage Port 2000
I served a bottle of Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon at our Pour Boys OTBN tasting dinner back in 2014. This is from the Lily Langtree Estate, the hollywood silent screen actress from early last century. That's her period photo that adorns the label.
The Guenoc Estate Winery & Vineyards are in Lake County, over the hill and on the back of Napa Valley Howell Mountain to the north and east.
We visited the estate back in the early nineties and acquired some Cabernets, one of which I served from a large format bottle at a special event a decade later, exceeding my expectations.
Lillie Langtry, was a famous actress and socialite during the 19th
century. She was born on the British Island of Jersey in 1853 and was the only daughter of seven children of the Dean of Jersey.
Although she never received a formal education, Lillie went on to have a
successful acting career. She starred in many plays in England and the
United States.
In 1888, Lillie purchased 4,200 acres of land in
California that would become Langtry Farms where she raised horses and founded the Langtry Farms Winery that is still in operation to this day. She set out to craft
the world’s finest claret from the grapes grown at the highest
elevation of her farm. During that time, she resided at the Langtry House
which is still operating today, available for private events.
According to the rear label, this is from the Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Reserve Estate Vineyard.
They still offer this label on their website dating back to the 1994 vintage. The 1994 Guenoc Valley Port is made from Petite Sirah
with a touch of Petit Verdot added to "lend elegance and subtle tones of
blueberry and spice." The 1999 Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Petite Sirah Port is crafted from Petite Sirah grapes.
I was intrigued when I saw this bottle on auction back then and acquired it. It has been sitting in our cellar for more than a decade and I opened it last week on a whim. Once again, it exceeded my expectations and was worthy of pairing with our desserts this evening.
Wine Enthusiast rated this 94 points.
I posted a tasting note about this label back in 2011, probably shortly after acquiring a couple bottles. My note from then: "Great paired with cheese cake, fresh strawberry and chocolate fondue
dessert. Full bodied - black and deep purple color - taste of brandy,
black berry, black raspberry, deep blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and
black cherry, sweetness a nice complement to the dessert - would be
great with a stilton cheese."
RM 89 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=54302
https://langtryfarms.com/wine/
