Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2005

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2005 

Hanging out for the holiday weekend, we opened our cellar for a tour to our new neighbor Mandy and her friend, colleague and guest Megan. She had professed to love big bold fruit forward wines, as we do. So, I pulled from the cellar a favorite big Aussie Shiraz for her to try for with the fresh garden salad and smoked grill dinner she and husband Chris were hosting/serving for the evening. 

As I have written in the past in this blog, this review from back in October, 2014 I wrote, "Favorite Aussie Shiraz - Flinders 2005 Aging Gracefully".

I raved about this wine when I discovered it several years ago and have featured it numerous times since in this blog. When I discovered this wine downstate in a local wineshop, I purchased some, then went back and purchased the remainder, then found and purchased more on-line. When I convinced local mega-merchant Binny's to obtain some more, I cleaned out their allocation too. At fifteen years, we still hold a half dozen bottles and continue to enjoy this big bold fruit filled Shiraz. Amazingly, tonight, it exceeded expectations and tasted as well as any remembrance I have of this label. 

Regretably, as I have noted in the past, this came on the scene with this and one other vintage release, then disappeared, not to be seen again. According to their website, it appears to still be in production, but its not to be found in distribution in Chicagoland, or in the on-line wine community.

Indeed, the Flinders Run website (http://www.flindersrun.com.au/) states, "We knew from the first trials of the 2001 and subsequent 2003 vintages that the Flinders Run wines were going to be something special, but nothing prepared us for the overwhelming success, we would experience with the release of the 2005 Vintage. Subsequent vintages have been crafted in the same careful manner exhibiting a consistency in flavour and style and most importantly capturing the elegance of region climate and above all varietal character."

That 2005 vintage got a raving 95 point review from legendary wine critic Robert Parker, 92 points from Steve Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, and 91 points from Wine Spectator. Parker wrote,"Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. For a wine of this size, it is remarkably light on its feet. Give it 2-3 years to more fully evolve and drink it through 2020. This is quite a debut for Flinders Run!"

Winemaker's notes: "The 2005 Shiraz was aged for 18 months in French and American oak hogsheads with 50% new French oak staves. Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish.

At fifteen years, this wine is ending its prime drinking window and starting to show its age as the intense fruit flavors are taking on a burnt raisin tone. Warning our neighbors and their dinner guest that this is not for the feint of heart, they dove in and loved the intense ripe raisin fruit tones and firm structure and gripping tannins.

I wrote about Flinders Run producer Emanuel Skorpos in an earlier blogpost. 

I recounted to the tasters that my recollection of the two vintages of this label, was that we liked the 2005 more than the 2006, being more approachable, more polished and balanced, while the '06 was bigger, more brooding and bold, but less polished or in no sense elegant. I selected the '05 tonight, dutifully to work off the older vintage, but also to test my recollection of it being my favored of the two, and to monitor its aging.

Consistent with our last post of this label,  Deep dark inky purple, "more subdued than the bigger '06, it retains all the nuances and character it exhibited in its youth - nicely balanced, polished, and flavorful. While the fruit is not as big and bold as its follow on vintage, the '05 still holds full, dense, complex layers of blue and black berry fruits, accented by licorice, hints of black pepper, and tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'."

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

Oliviero Toscani OT Toscana IGT 2012

 Oliviero Toscani OT Toscana IGT 2012

This was an intriguing offering from WTSO - Wines Till Sold Out - the on-line merchant, a unique blend of Shiraz/Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. WTSO offer deeply discounted specials in various quantities that invariably sell out quickly, hence the name. 

The producer Oliviero Toscani is known for Super-Tuscans, sourced from their estate in the coastal hills near the Italian coast, south of Livorno in the commune of Marittimo. The commune is in the Province of Pisa in the Italian region of Tuscany, located about 70 kilometres southwest of Florence and about 50 kilometres southeast of Pisa. 

Oliviero Toscani bought a small farm in Casale Marittimo in the sixties and spent the next three decades acquiring more land, planting olive trees and raising horses, pigs and Angus cows. In the late nineties, he was inspired by friend and legendary winemaker Angelo Gaja to plant vineyards. He developed a amphitheater-shaped vineyard at 350 meters above sea level with a breathtaking view on the Tirreno Sea. 

His son, Rocco, was born and raised on the farm but went off to study abroad and pursued a career as a photographer. He returned to his roots and Tuscan home in 2014 and eventually took over managing the estate, vineyards and cellar, focusing on producing wines that optimize the strengths of the vineyards and their distinctive terroir. 

This label is from the Monteromboli Vineyard, twenty-two acres of rolling hillside with iron rich, generous, intensely red soil of medium texture. It was planted with Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in 2001. It is situated 220 to 350 meters above sea level, with orientation and exposure to the South-West.

The Mediterranean climate consists of mild winters, rainy autumns and springs, with warm and dry summers.

This is a Super-Tuscan, as such, an Italian wine crafted from Bordeaux varietals, albeit with a Northern Rhone Syrah in the mix. The blend is 50% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot. It was aged for 12 months in Slavonia oak barrels and eventually rested for about 36 months in bottles.

Its interesting that Rocco studied photography and he uses photography metaphors in comparing it to winemaking. "It may sound weird but making wine is not that different from taking a picture. I’ve grown up among images, and I’ve always been fascinated about the similarity that exists between these two forms of art."

 

Rocco Toscani says about photography: “Taking pictures is not about considering reality as an object, but making reality become an object. It is about putting dimensions back together: relief, movement, emotion, idea, meaning and desire to make everything real. Wine is about concentrating all in one bottle: vintage, nature, light, wind and experiences. We aim to find a balance among vines, tastes, smells, tannins and acidity. It is a matter of mixing a good amount of sensitivity and rigor in addition to a healthy kick of craziness. Everything matches. In taking pictures one can tell reality through sight. In making wine, one can tell reality through taste. Both arts are surprising and captivating."

 

Continuing the photography metaphor, he selects the three primary colors for his labels and releases the wine in all three. Furthermore, his logo is like a optical lense focus element on the colors and image as if not quite in, but coming into focus. 

This exemplifies the resulting style and character of this wine. We like big bold expressive wines and this one promised that, being a blend of grapes with those characteristics. It seems like each are competing to express themselves resulting in a cacaphony rather than integrating into a symphony of flavors.

 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, a bit disjointed, complex, bright expressive flavors of blackberries, black cherries and black currants accented by white pepper, spice, earthy herbs, game and hints of mocha on a moderate tannin medium length, acidic finish.

 

RM 89 points.  

 

While the listed release price was $56, WTSO offered it at the deeply discounted price marked down to $20. Notably, while the promise of a Super Tuscan with the distinctively unique blend was intriguing, it's value price was closer to its discounted price than list. At that, its a great, fun, 'pizza' wine for bold pasta or cheeses, or burgers.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3195088

https://vino.toscani.com/

Kirkland Signature Chateauneuf du Pape 2019

Kirkland Signature Chateauneuf du Pape 2019

Colleague and wine buddy Michael alerted me to the Kirkland Signature private label wine bottlings from big-box warehouse retailer Costco. Hard to belief perhaps, but they are actually the largest retail wine merchant in the world. They sell a select offering of popular well known producers as well as lesser known brands. They also market their own private label portfolio under the Kirkland Signature brand and label. Kirkland is the Costco brand named for their hometown in suburban Seattle where they are headquartered.

This week's visit to Costco was the first time I noticed the Kirkland Signature Brand in this Chateauneuf du Pape (CdP). For several years they offered a  Kirkland Signature Chateauneuf du Pape that was produced by Chateau de Nalys through the 2016 release, up until the producer of this Kirkland wine for many vintages, was acquired in 2017 by well known Rhone producer Guigal.

The change in ownership may have resulted in a missed vintage release in 2017. In any event the 2018 vintage Costco Chateauneuf du Pape was attributed to a new different producer. The wine was previously made by Domaine de Nalys, as it was displayed on the front label, but was replaced with "Cuvee du Terroir des Papes" with the 2018 release. The back label indicated the new winemaker was Guillaume Gonnet, who makes a number of wines under his own label, including several from CdP.

Owner and winemaker of his family’s Châteauneuf du Pape estate since 2006, 'Guillaume Gonnet Vigneron', was created by Guillaume and his Australian wife Kelly. Guillaume Gonnet wines are the realization of their dream to pursue the potential of Southern Rhône grape varieties in varing terroir in the South of France.

Before joining his family as third generation winemaker, Guillaume travelled the world working in some of the most famous wineries in Bordeaux, Burgundy, The Napa Valley, New Zealand and finally in Australia where he met his future wife.

Seeking to craft their own wines they set out to sought out distinctive “terroir” to showcase their wines to expression all of the environmental elements that affect the quality of the grapes and, ultimately, the characteristics of the wine.

Guillaume Gonnet wines were the realization of their dream to pursue the potential of Southern Rhône grape varieties from the varying terroir in the South of France, when they purchased their own plots in Chateauneuf du Pape in 2015. 

With their vines, and selected parcels, Guillaume produce wine that reflects their philosophy for winemaking - Minimal interference with the “terroir effect”, and striving to obtain the right blend of Southern Rhone varieties - Grenache, Syrah and Mouvèdre, to attain complexity, balance and soft, elegant tannins, practicing an approach to aging using very little wood influence.

Today, Guillaume and Kelly produce a range of wines representing a number of appellations in the Southern Rhône including Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Village, Lirac, Cairanne, Tavel and of course, Châteauneuf du Pape.

Kirkland Signature Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee du Terroir des Papes" 2019

The varietal breakdown in the blend of this wine is composed the primary required Chateauneuf-du-Pape varietals, 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault.

The Costco wine writer/blogger writes that this 2019 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, created by Gonnet, represents the four terroirs of Chateauneuf-du-Pape; river stones, limestones, clay and sand. While rated as a good wine, it is noted as not the same caliber as the 2018, or the 2016.  "It ticks just a small notch below."

The Costco reviewer writes, "The 2019 vintage pours a medium ruby in the glass; earthy nose, coffee grounds, some dark berry fruit. The wine is medium plus in body with good flavor, mostly dark fruit, blackberry, plum, anise; it is spicy and peppery in the finish with nice acidity.'

'This is a good wine but perhaps just a little disjointed in its youth. While the 2018 was given 90 points, the 2019 was rated 88 points."

They cite that this is great value at around $20 since CDP's often cost $35 and more. I found it appropriately priced at this point.

I found this garnet colored, medium bodied, but the blackberry and plum fruits showed tangy acidity but were a bit flabby and offset by a slight green pepper note with muted tones of anise, spice and tobacco. It was best represented with creamy mozzarella cheese.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3955099

http://www.guillaumegonnet.com/

 

Father Son wine dinner

Father and my three son's celebrate Dad's b-day wine dinner

With the ladies on the east coast for a wedding shower, I got to dine with my three sons as the men got together for a grilled steak and wine dinner. 

Son Alec hosted and broke in his new grill preparing rib-eye steaks, roasted corn, squash, grilled marinated mushrooms and carmelized grilled onions. 

We each brought an interesting bottle to share and compare. 

Beforehand, Alec served the selection of Murray's artisan cheeses as he did the other evening when we dined there christening their new townhouse. 

 

 

Son Ryan was bringing one of my historically most memorable Syrahs, Kongsgaard Napa from 2002, (which we drank at my birthday two years earlier). So, I looked for a comparative bottle from a near vintage, and pulled from our cellar a 2001 Noon Eclipse. 

 The wines were a spectacular accompaniment to the steaks, corn, mushrooms, onions, squash and chocolate - a fabulous dinner! 

For the dinner entree course, Alec opened a Corley Reserve Napa Cabernet. 

Noon Vineyards Eclipse McLaren Vale Grenache Syrah blend 2001 

This is produced by Drew Noon and his wife Raegan who carry on to the next generation this family owned small vineyard and winery in McLaren Vale, South Australia. 

Drew grew up on this property that his father David established as a family wine business in 1976. Drew took over winemaking duties from his Dad with the 1996 vintage. 

Drew writes about the vines that surround the house, "They are like old friends. I have pruned and tended them since I was a child and so the appearance of the vines themselves, the leaves and the bunches as they develop, is very familiar. I feel like I share a life experience with them and so they are close to my heart."

The Noon vineyards like many in South Australia are unique, with the old vines growing on their own roots (not grafted onto rootstocks necessitated by the presence of phylloxera like most of the rest of the world). Their native, natural 'old' vines more readily reflect their terroir and produce wines with a ‘sense of place’. This circumstance is quite rare in the world sense and gives Noon a unique advantage.

Noon specializes in limited production red wines, hand crafted to be full bodied, sourced from their estate from small vineyard blocks. They employ a minimalist approach to craft wines that optimally reflect the grapes and the site terroir.

When I pulled this from the cellar it was still wrapped in the tissue from the original release. I initially thought it was the Noon Syrah until we unwrapped it for opening at dinner. I seem to recall buying this at Gary's in Scottsdale, during one of my frequent trips there during that era.

Noon "Eclipse" Langhorne Creek South Australia Grenache-Shiraz 2001 

The 2001 Eclipse is a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Shiraz, from 56-65 year old vines from three vineyards surrounding and adjacent to the producer's homestead house and winery in McLaren Vale. From the Winery Block they grow Grenache bush vines planted in 1934; from the Almond Block they  grow Shiraz and Graciano (bush vines) that were planted between 1998 and 2001, and from BJ’s Block, they grow another Grenache bush vine vineyard, planted in 1943.

This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 93 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

At twenty years, despite perfect cork, fill level and label, this is at the end of its prime drinking window and will start to diminish here forward, time to drink. 

Lighter than expected. Dark garnet color with opaque purple hues, medium bodied,  blackberry fruit accented by charcoal, smoke, bacon fat, some pepper, licorice, black tea, hints of floral and spice. 

RM 90 points.

https://noonwinery.com.au/noon-eclipse.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30300

Kongsgaard Hudson Ranch Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah 2002

For my second birthday dinner in three years, Ryan opened this Kongsgaard Napa Valley Hudson Ranch Vineyard Syrah. I first tasted this label, the 2007 release, at Grange Restaurant in Sacramento. I wrote in my blogpost at the time that it was the most memorable Shiraz I had ever tasted. 

This is sourced from the Hudson Vineyard down in Carneros at the bottom of Napa Valley near the San Pablo Bay. 

Kongsgaard Hudson Ranch Vineyard Syrah 2002

Consistent with that earlier tastings, this was dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex and concentrated with notes of what Robert Parker refers to as soy, beef jerky and smoked game tones. There is a layer of bacon fat and graphite overlaying the more subdued flavors of black blackberry and raspberry with accents of of licorice and pepper. 

This was a great pairing with the Noon and a perfect complement to the artisan cheese and grilled steaks, as well as chocolate cake for dessert.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=18009

Corley Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

This is produced by the Corley family who are long time grape growers in Napa Valley that produce a small limited amount of wine of their own label, only in extraordinary vintages. 

They produced this wine at Monticello Winery on Big Ranch Road in the Oak Knoll District of south Napa Valley. We visited this winery estate back in the late nineties when it was operating as a custom crush facility and we did a tasting of boutique producer Elan Wines with producers Patrick and Linda Elliott-Smith. 

This was a special bottle as the boys know and are friends with one of the members of the Corley family and were able to source this special limited release bottling. 

This is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot.

Ken's Wine Guide Tasting Panel summed this up perfectly when they wrote about this label, "This very dark garnet colored Cabernet Sauvignon from Corley opens with a mild black currant and black licorice bouquet. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied, slightly acidic and savory. The flavor profile is a fruit forward fruit bomb featuring stewed plum and black currant with notes of graphite and toasted oak. We also detected a hint of blackberry. The finish is dry and its moderate tannins show very nice length. The Panel suggested pairing this Cab with a New York strip steak. Enjoy - KWGTP"

I echo their tasting experience and give this 92 points. Dark garnet color, medium-full body, nicely balanced and integrated blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of anise, hints of graphite and toasted oak with smooth polished moderate tannins on a lingering finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?Label=46&iWine=3237704

As the time of this writing, the Corley Wine website is not operating.  

Fine De Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château La Nerthe 1988 

We finished the dinner with chocolate cake and  this special aperitif. 

This is another very special bottle we tasted. We opened and christened this bottle during a special dinner at Alec and Vivianna's apartment in NYC. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/10/parents-son-dinner-features-birth-year.html

We discovered, tasted, and Alec acquired this wine during our visit to the Château La Nerthe estate two summers ago.

La Fine de Château La Nerthe comes exclusively from the distillation of white wine in bottles of the Château. White wine is aged in bottles in the cellars before being tasted and distilled.

Château La Nerthe perform a triple distillation to obtain the finest and delicate aromas possible. They seek the spirit of their old white wines that make the reputation of Château La Nerthe. By its origin, its extraction, its requirement and its refinement of 10 years minimum in oak casks, the Fine of the Castle La Nerthe is the expression of the exceptional finest spirit of their wines.

Château La Nerthe have been producing these fine wines in the true tradition of fine wine distillation in Châteauneuf du Pape since this, their first vintage, 1988.

Tea honey colored, full bodied, delicious, smooth, harmonious, nicely balanced.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3330760

http://www.chateaulanerthe.fr/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Del Dotto Piazza Sangiovese for Italian Dinner

Del Dotto Piazza Napa Valley Sangiovese 2016 for Angelis Italian BYOB Dinner

It will be bittersweet drinking our last bottle of this label, one we first tasted and then acquired at the Estate during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018, last summer. The Del Dotto Piazza DELICACIES Food and Wine Experience was one of the highlights of our trip.

As I have written in these pages, this Napa Valley Sangiovese 2016 and the 2015 vintage release have become a 'go-to' wine for our Italian dinners  BYOB at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood Italian Trattoria. Its nice and a welcome relief to be out dining without the Covid restrictions. 

Del Dotto is one of the largest holdings in our collection. So when they opened their new Piazza Del Dotto property, it was on the shortlist to visit on next Napa trip. 

I've been watching for more of this wine to be available, subsequent vintages accepted, and haven't seen it, but will eagerly scoop up more if and when I find some. 

Del Dotto Piazza Napa Valley Sangiovese 2016

Consistent with earlier recent tasting notes, this was ruby colored medium full bodied, delicious sweet ripe raspberry and plum fruits accented by a layer of sweet mocha chocolate and notes of vanilla and almond with supple smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3038663

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/ 

https://www.angeliscatering.com/

@DelDottoWine

Long Shadows Sequel Syrah 2016

Long Shadows Sequel Syrah 2016

 

With son Alec and Vivianna over for dinner to watch the Indiana Hoosiers compete in the NCAA National Championship, we grilled ribeye steaks with home grown seasonal asparagus tips and sweet potato fries. As with the other evening, Linda prepared a perfect Pittsburgh style char, served over French Bread and topped with the asparagus and homemade Hollandaise Sauce. 

 

Alec and Viv brought over some classic selections of Murray's Cheese from Greenwich Village, New York City, Murray's Blue and Murray's Moliterno Al Tartufo pecorino, aged for six months before earthy black truffle is added, that they served at their hosted dinner last week. 

 

We opened this classic Long Shadows Syrah from our club allocation cellar collection.

 

This is part of the Long Shadows Vintners Collection - a portfolio of wines, each crafted by a world renowned winemaker, noted for each particular varietal selection. We gained appreciation for the Long Shadows program during out visit to their tasting room during our our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour back in 2018 -  https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/long-shadows-cellars-feature-world.html.

This is the Syrah varietal member of the collection and was crafted by legendary John Duval who was winemaker for Australia’s iconic Penfolds Grange for 16 years. John Duval came to Washington State's Columbia Valley in 2003 as the “sequel” to his life’s work with Syrah. 

 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Columbia Valley Sequel Syrah 2016

This is a fun wine that we enjoy and started collecting, not only because of the QPR - quality price ratio of these Washington State sourced wines, but also due to the extraordinary portfolio of legendary winemakers' handicraft. Lastly, this particular wine is sourced from vineyards of a distant family connection, our niece married into the Den Hoed family, boutique producers and vineyard owners and grape growers for Long Shadows and several other leading brands and labels.   

 

Winemakers' notes: Yakima Valley’s Boushey and Den Hoed Grandview Vineyards comprise 50% of this blend and give the 2016 Sequel its bright, vibrant character. Bacchus Vineyard Syrah (25%), grown on a south-facing block planted in 1993, adds black fruit character and richness. A Shiraz clone from Sonnet Vineyard at the Benches brings blueberry notes to the wine, and a small amount of Red Mountain area Syrah adds to the wine’s dark, brooding character. Dionysus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon provides added backbone. 

 

The blend is 93% Syrah and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Winemaker's notes: The 2016 Sequel Syrah has a dark, garnet color with enticing aromas of black fruits, sweet spice, fresh espresso and roasted meats. Expressive on the palate, this is a complex and layered wine with vibrant flavors of ripe figs, wild blackberries and a hint of olive tapenade that linger on the finish.

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3096199

 

https://longshadows.com/  

https://twitter.com/longshadowswine

 

@LongShadowsWine

 

 

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Rick w/ Randy and Kirsten Dunn
at Howell Mtn estate

Fellow Pour Boy, wine buddy, Bill and Beth C visiting from Charleston, we dined out for lunch at the 64 Wine Bar and Restaurant in Naperville. 

Due to Covid precautions, the wine by the glass metered serving machines were not in operation. Not finding anything enticing or inspiring on the BTG (by-the-glass) menu, including in the wine flights, Bill ordered from the wine list a bottle of Dunn Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon. 

We dined on burgers with truffle fries and salads for our lunch. 

We visited the Dunn estate and vineyards up in Angwin atop Howell Mtn during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008.

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

This release was awarded 95 points by Vinous and Wine Spectator and 93-95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

This label is known and distinguished by its dipped wax seal top rather than foil packaging. 

This is a wine legendarily known for its long life. We hold two decades of this label in our cellar most of which we have not yet opened, opting to hold it for a long term. Robert Parker wrote that it should drink well for 30-40 years, Wine Spectator notes drinking window out to 2040.

Taking into account its reputation for a long lived wine, neither of us had ever, or very seldom tasted this label so young. 

Dark garnet and purple colored, medium full bodied, at six years, this was surprisingly approachable with its concentrated full bright expressive fruits of black currant and black berry fruits with hints of spicy clove, smoke and notes of sweet tobacco, creme de cassis and what I initially thought of as 'menthol' but later realized it was what one of the pundits called camphor, turning to supple tannins on big finish. 

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2638109

Duo Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Napa Cabs

Duo of Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernets comparative tasting

Fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Bill and Beth came in from Charleston for the weekend so Linda prepared grilled rib-eye beefsteaks with roasted potatoes and haricut verts. Linda prepared the steaks charred Pittsburgh style perfectly, as shown. 

Prior to dinner and ceasar salad we had a selection of artisan cheeses and fresh berries.

After dinner, Linda served Tuxedo chocolate cake with fresh berries and whipped cream.

Grilled Ribeye steaks prepared
Pittsburgh style served on French Bread

We scoured the cellar for an interesting and tasty wine flight and selected a mini-horizontal of two vintage wines from two different producers, sourced from the same estate and vineyard.

I wrote about the history of the Pym Rae Vineyard on Mt Veeder serving as the source for several producers over the years in this blogpost a while back. - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/06/marco-di-guilio-pym-rae-vineyard-mt.html.

We've met with Robert Craig a dozen times over the years at the winery, at a ghost winery in early years, at harvest parties, and at special dinners that we have hosted or attended.  

The Pym Rae vineyard property historically was better known as the Napa Valley vineyard and estate of Robin Williams, the comedian and actor known for his stand-up routines and his many diverse film performances including Mrs Doubtfire and Good Will Hunting, for which he won an Academy Award.

 

Rick, Robert Craig and Bill at
Howell Mtn estate harvest party.

The name Pym-Rae is a hommage to the late Robin Williams and his children after whom the vineyard was named. The inspiration behind the odd sounding Pym-Rae was the combination of the middle names of Robin's two eldest children, Zachary Pym Williams and Zelda Rae Williams.
 

The Pym-Rae vineyard was originally cultivated in about 1990, long before there was an estate chateau or active winery. The grapes were sold to various local producers including Robert Craig, Vineyard 29 and Rombauer. 

 

Robert Craig was winemaker for Robin Williams wines for more than a dozen years and when he started producing wines under his own label he sourced his Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from there. We hold several decades of vintages of Robert Craig wines including this Mt Veeder label, dating back to the inaugural release in 1993.

Robert Craig's website noted the end of their supply of fruit from this vineyard; "Bob Craig consulted on the development of the late Robin Williams’ 17-acre Pym Rae vineyard in 1990 and, since then, we (have) received the majority of the fruit from this terrific property".

The entire Pym-Rae property totaled 640 acres and was purchased by Robin Williams in 1994. After his death, in August, 2014, the property was sold in January 2016 to the French Tesseron family, owners of Chateau Pontet-Canet and Tesseron Cognac. 

 

As part of the purchase they acquired homestead chateau on the property, Villa Sorriso, a massive, stunningly beautiful home, built in 2003. The 2 story Italian styled villa, 20,000 square feet, was the home of Robin Williams and included a movie theater, 5 bedrooms, 10 bathrooms, a tennis court and infinity pool in the home. Robin Williams had referred to the estate as Villa Sorriso, which is translated to “Villa of Smiles.” There the Tesserons have created the "Tesseron Estate". 

 

Last year the Tesseron Pym Rae Cabernet Sauvignon was released at $350 per bottle making these wines a terrific value in comparison.  

Marco Di Giulio Napa Valley Mt Veeder Pym Rae Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/close-out-2020-with-diamond-mtn.html

 

This 2005 Mt. Veeder Pym-Rae Cabernet was dark inky blackish garnet colored, full bodied, powerful and massively structured. Upon opening the fruit flavored exploded from the bottle into the glass. The forward rich fruits are layered with blackberry and blueberry accented by a tone of chocolate with nuances of smoke and spice, turning to an incredibly long finish.

I wish I could find more of this label and will watch for it and buy all that I can find. Watch for the new releases from Tesseron Estate as they come on the market in the coming years.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1498521

An interesting comparison of two wines from two different winemakers and producers, sourced from the same fruits. In comparison, the Di Giulio was more expressive with more vibrant fruits from the onset with aromas erupting from the bottle and glass upon opening and pouring, while the Craig was tighter and more subdued. 

Over the course of an hour the wines came closer together resembling their common terroir character and profile. Then, they drifted apart again, back to their initial profile where they revealed winemaker influences as the Di Guilo presented more vibrant fruits accented by a frame of sweet oak. 

Surprisingly, the ladies both preferred the Robert Craig over the bolder more expressive Di Giulio.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The time before last that we served this particular label at one of our wine dinners, it was poignant tasting and reminiscing over this wine. We recalled tasting this wine with Robert Craig on numerous occasions and he recollecting this is his favorite of the vineyard selections. We talked of the recent end of the supplier relationship for this fruit source as the legendary Pym Rae Vineyard, previously owned by the late Robin Williams, was sold to a major French producer who acquired the sixteen hundred acre estate with plans to enter the Napa Valley marketplace. We recall Robert's reminiscences of Robin for whom he worked and managed the vineyards back in the nineties. 

From Robert we learned the inspiration for naming Robin's wine portfolio brand Toad Hollow was because, as a child he couldn't pronounce older brother Todd's name.

Robert Craig's 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is complex and unusually high in alcohol. It displays aromas of blackberry and cassis with notes of chocolate and tobacco, while its fruit-forward palate offers flavors of mocha and licorice with a long finish and supple tannins.

Its dark garnet colored, black berry fruits with notes of smoke, hints of cassis, toasty oak, graphite, and spice notes offered in a medium-bodied, elegant, Margaux-like stylish, graceful wine. Drink it over the next decade."

Mt. Veeder, located on the eastern slopes of the Mayacamas range has a climate that is cooler than the valley floor below. This climate and the more difficult (less fertile) volcanic mountain soil influence the flavors of the wines from this region. Most known for both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder is known for producing grapes of exceptional character and intensity.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, complex aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of cassis, subtle spice, black tea, cigar box with hints of cedar and anise with full, ripe tannins and a hint of minerality on a long smooth finish.  

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=458252

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine 

Clerc Milon Pauillac 1989 

With the steak dinner entrees course we opened this aged vintage Bordeaux from Bill and Beth's son Matt's birthyear that we've been holding for such an occasion.  

The 1989 Clerc-Milon is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The vintage faced a warm spring that produced early flowering and the heat continued throughout the summer, leading to Clerc-Milon's earliest harvest of the twentieth century to that point. 

We drove past the Clerc Milon estate and vineyards during our Bordeaux Wine Experience in 2018, although we didn't stop as our focus for the trip the adjacent St Julien appellation. 

This wine was rated 93 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Vinous and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

At thirty-two years, this was holding up well, testament to the ageworthiness of fine Bordeaux from a good vintage. The fill level was appropriate for the age at lower neck level. The cork was completely saturated by still sound and intact albeit nearing end of life for its utility. It was extracted after much effort and care using a ahso two pronged cork puller. I wonder if it could have been done with a corkscrew. 

This was clearly in the waning years of its drinking window, but still presentable and enjoyable, taking into account its into its entering its fourth decade. The resulting Clerc-Milon was on par with the premier first growth flagship Mouton-Rothschild and even preferred by Robert Parker for the first time in his many years as a critic resulting a great value in comparison

Garnet colored with a slight brownish hue starting to emerge, medium bodied, the ripe blackberry and black currant fruits were beginning to give way to earthy leather, creosote, tea, herbs and hints of licorice and graphite. turning to soft tannins on the long lingering finish. 

Showing its age a bit - RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2898

 

Il Bruciato Bolgheri w/ pizza dinner

Antinori Il Bruciato Bolgheri Tenuta Guada Al Tasso 2016 with collection of artisan pizzas

The kids came over for Mother's Day eve dinner, Sean and Michelle brought pizzas from Fiamii's (Naperville) - a selection including Detroit style (so they say) and a Margarita style plus classic basic cheese for the grandkids. The pizza's left a bit to be desired and they shorted us the salads from the order.

 Never-the-less, I opened this 'pizza wine' for the occasion. We discovered this wine when we had it two years ago at Saturday Brunch in NYC Chelsea Flatiron neighborhood with Alec and Viv at at La Pecora Bianca (The White Sheep) on Broadway at 26th. I liked it and came home and picked up some for every day casual sipping with pizza and pasta.

Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Il Bruciato 2016

This is what is known as a Super Tuscan, made famous in the 70s when wine critics noted the quality rivaled that of high-end Bordeaux. The Bolgheri area was known for producing IGT and VdT wines based on the typical Bordeaux varietals. In 1994, the Bolgheri DOC appellation designation was created to recognize these quality wines.  These wines tend to offer great QPR - Quality Price Ratio values. 

This 2016 Il Bruciato provides good QPR value for everyday sipping with pizza and pasta. Amazingly, more than one million bottles were produced at this quality level. Pick up a case for great every day drinking wine that will also stand up to special occasions and quality drinking.

This wine, “Il Bruciato,” which means “the burned” is the second wine of Antinori’s Tenuta Guado al Tasso, second to the flagship wine, “Guado al Tasso”, named after the large vineyard in Bolgheri in which the grapes are grown.

This Il Bruciato, produced to be a more approachable and contemporary style of wine than the more traditional estate wine, is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Syrah.

This is ideal for this food combination. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth, polished for casual easy drinking with vibrant red and black fruit flavors accented by spice, mocha and smoke with elegant soft tannins on a moderate lingering finish.

RM 90 points. This is less than earlier rating from previous tastings, I think due to the wine pairing, which is even better suited for spicy pasta dishes.

The Wine Advocate gave this 93 pts
Jame Suckling of Wine Spectator gave it 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2904858

https://www.antinori.it/en/vino/il-bruciato-en/ 

Groth Oakville Napa Cabernet 2004

Groth Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 - ideal pairing with filet of beef

We feasted on the left over filets of beef from last evening and I pulled from the cellar this Groth Napa Cabernet - a perfect pairing. Indeed, the producer's menu suggestion for this wine: "A slab and a Cab", Dennis Groth recommends you drink his Cabernet Sauvignon with steak."

We visited the Groth estate winery and vineyards during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999. Groth gain notoriety and recognition when Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate gave the Groth 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon the distinction of being California’s first perfect 100-point wine. 

Since then, Groth wines have been ranked on Wine Spectator’s prestigious Top 100 Wines list eight times, most recently in 2019, when the 2016 Reserve Cabernet was No. 4.

From the beginning, Groth has been a family business, managed today by second-generation family member Suzanne Groth. 

Groth Vineyards & Winery was founded in 1981 by Dennis and Judy Groth. Dennis gained his fame in fortune in Silicon Valley when he was CFO of early tech phenom Atari (remember 'Pong'). When it was acquired by Time Warner, Dennis went on to President of the Consumer Products Division and President of the International Division.

The Groths purchased the 121-acre vineyard parcel in Oakville, Napa Valley in 1981 and in '82 added a second vineyard of 44 acres located south of Yountville. The Groth estate vineyard was originally planted between 1972 and 1974 by Justin Meyer, who went on to achieve acclaim with Silver Oak.

Those two vineyards remain the primary source of grapes for the Groth portfolio which includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Dennis and Judy moved to Napa Valley and have resided in Oakville since 1985. Today, Dennis is Chairman of the Board, and Judy plays an active role in the look and feel of the winery. Their daughter Susan now runs Groth Wines. After college and several years working various jobs in the wine business, she returned to the family business in 1998, working in sales, public relations and marketing. She took the reins as President and CEO in 2017. “It was only after selling other people’s wine that I was able to appreciate how very special Groth Vineyards was.”

The Groth Oakville Estate sits on the valley floor in the heart of the Napa Valley. The Groth family helped Oakville become recognized as one of the world’s preeminent wine regions. Today, the Oakville AVA is home to the largest concentration of the very best Napa Valley producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. Oakville District Cabernet Sauvignon wines are is renowned as full, lush and elegant.

 

Groth Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

 

Winemaker notes on the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon: "Big and lush with huge gobs of fruit in the aroma and flavor. The texture of the wine is soft and supple, typical of Cabernet Sauvignons grown in our area of the Oakville AVA. Patience during bottle aging will reward the "steward" with an outstanding bottle over the next 10 to 15 years." 

Indeed, at seventeen years, this is likely at its peak and should continue to drink well for another decade. Thankfully, we still hold a couple more bottles of this vintage of the half dozen vintages in our collection (which includes still a Alec birthyear vintage 1990). The fill level was perfect while the cork appearing perfect was a bit soft upon extraction using a 'ahso' two pronged cork puller. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth, elegant, briary black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of cassis, dusty cedar and hints of dark chocolate, herbs and creamy oak turning to gripping tannin on a fruit filled finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=328095

https://grothwines.com/ 

@GrothWines

Homestead christening dinner features Bandol & Napa Reds

Homestead christening dinner features Bandol and Napa Red Blends with sous vide Beef Filet

Alec and Vivianna moved into their new townhouse and invited us over for first guest christening dinner. Alec prepared filets of beef with asparagus, mashed pureed califlower and mushrooms. I brought a Bandol Southern France Provencal red wine. 

Having opened a Provencal Bandol wine with Pizza the previous evening for dinner and been pleasantly surprised, I research availability of other Bandol labels available at local merchants. Out of close to 12000 labels at forty-four stores, Binny's, the Chicagoland beverage superstore had only one label in stock, at just three stores, only one nearby. I ran down to the local store and picked up the few remaining bottles. 

This wine has special significance for our gala dinner since Alec and Vivianna were with us during our trip to the Provence-Côte d'Azur region in the south of France when we visited the region and toured the Southern Rhone Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and several wine producers two years ago. 

We also took the remains of the Bandol label we had opened and tasted the night before for a comparison tasting. 

Prior to dinner, they served several artisan cheeses from Murray's Cheese in Greenwich Village, New York City. This was one of their favorite eateries during their years living in Manhattan, one that we dined at with them on numerous occasions. 

The cheeses included a Murray's Blue, a brie and an extraordinary Murray's Moliterno Al Tartufo pecorino, aged for six months before earthy black truffle is added, "ever-so-delicately drilled and filled with rich truffle paste, a perfect (big red wine) companion", a fabulous pairing with the Bandol.  

La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2016

Like the Bandol we tasted the night before, this too was Appellation Bandol Controlee designated, a Mourvèdre based blend.  This was a blend of 78% Mourvèdre, 16% Grenache, 4% Cinsault and 2% Syrah. Comparing the two wines, this La Bastide Blance was darker, bigger, more concentrated, tighter and more complex. 

This was rated 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 91 points by Joe Czerwinski of The Wine Advocate.  

Dunnuck noted the vintage, that "with the Southern Rhône Valley, Bandol appears to have had a banner year in 2016", This is brilliant Bandol!" 

At sub $30, this is another high QPR (quality price ratio) offering. Interesting that several other Bandol labels that sold out and out of stock at Binny's were priced at $40, $47, $75 and $99!

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, big dense and concentrated black berry and plum fruits with some gamey notes, pepper, glycerin, dusty earth and garrigue herbs turning to gripping tannins on the lengthy finish. 

At five years of age, this likely will improve further and be more approachable and perhaps more integrated in five years and be suitable for another decade. I have a couple more bottles that will be fun to compare in five and then ten years time. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2714762

For the dinner entree course, Alec served this wine club allocation Red Bordeaux Blend release from Hill Family wines.  

Hill Family Estate 'Origin' Napa Valley Red Blend 2016

We first tasted this wine during our gala family Christmas celebration dinner ...

As newlyweds, Alec and Vivianna visited Hill Family Estate during their forest fire shortened honeymoon in Napa in September. They visited the new estate winery, located just minutes south of Yountville just off the highway. They tasted this wine there and acquired it as part of their wine club allocation.

I wrote about Hill-Family Estate in my blogpost of that dinner at the time. 

The Hill Family, lead by patriarch and proprietor and fourth-generation farmer Doug Hill, started producing their own branded portfolio of wines after four decades of farming grapes for some of the finest Napa Valley wineries.

Hill Family Estate produced their first wines in 2001, a Merlot and this red Bordeaux varietal blend Origin.
 

Today, the Hill Family owns 120 acres of vineyards in Atlas Peak, Carneros, Oak Knoll and American Canyon appellations of Napa Valley.

 

The Hill Family portfolio has grown to over twenty five different labels across the broad range of varietals, blends, and single vineyard designated offerings.  

 

Origin is their Bordeaux blend comprising all five Bordeaux varietals sourced from Hill Family estate vineyards - Cabernet Franc that Doug planted at the Beau Terrior Vineyard which had its first harvest in this release, hillside Merlot at Beau Terroir in Carneros, and Beau Terre in Oak Knoll for added structure and plushy fruit, Malbec which adds big color and lower tannins, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc to add texture to balance the Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon adds 'dignity' to all blends.  

The composition of 2016 Origin is 55% Merlot, 18% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc sourced from Carneros, Oak Knoll, Yountville and Atlas Peak Appellations.

 

Production was 960 cases.

 

Winemaker Alison Doran’s tasting notes: "The 2016 Origin has lovely aromas of raspberry and roses. The broad entry has a big mouthful of berries and crunchy cherry. The ripe and intense mid-palate rolls into more sweet fruit –blueberry, red currant, and plum, with subtle tannins rounding out the finish.

This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant black raspberry, currant and plum fruits with spice, oak and tangy acidity on a full tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3243704

https://www.hillfamilyestate.com/

@HFEWine

More to come ...