Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy for classic authentic Italian cuisine and wine 

We ventured into the city (Chicago) to attend grand-daughter’s traveling soccer game in the Pilsen, ‘heart of Chicago’ neighborhood with views of the spectacular skyline in the distance. 

After the game, we ventured in to the historic ‘Little Italy’ ‘business’ neighborhood of south Oakley street for dinner. For literally decades, we’ve traveled to Taylor Street, the traditional popular ‘Little Italy’ restaurant district, as we watched the diminishment and closure of the classic historic trattorias there over the years. Indeed, the remaining restaurant that we now frequent there is Chez Joel, a classic French bistro. 

I’m frustrated and regret that somehow we missed or lost track of, and have overlooked this historic Italian ‘business’ neighborhood on South Oakley street, that still features no less than five historic authentic Italian restaurants clustered together on this street. Linda reminded me we dined there together with friends no less than thirty years ago. And, before that, she worked for a brief period just four blocks away and used to dine there with colleagues from work.  

We were delighted to rediscover this historic neighborhood that had blocked off South Oakley street between 24th Street and 24th Place to accommodate dinners on this exceptional, spectacular end of summer, autumn evening.    

We dined at Bruna’s Ristorante, situated on the corner of 24th Place and Oakley. Opened by Bella ‘Bruna’ Cani  in 1933 – the same year prohibition was repealed, it is the third-oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago. (Of course readers of these pages know we feature often Italian Village, THE oldest Italian Restaurant in Chicago.)

The story goes that when Bruna wasn’t cooking for her patrons, Bruna would dance on the bar while her customers sang. Bruna’s legacy continued as, until recently, you could find her daughter Marylyn (Mickey), who passed away in 2013 at the age of 94, relaxing on a neighborhood bench when the weather was right.

Bruna sold the restaurant in 1981 to Luciano Silvestri who shared her same heritage, being from the central Italian region of Tuscany, and shared a passion for authentic Italian food. Luciano still prepares many of Bruna’s original recipes, while also introducing several of his own family’s prized Italian dishes.

Current owner Luciano is a native of Siena, Italy, and has worked in the restaurant industry from a young age, working extensively in Switzerland and London. Before coming to Chicago in 1977, Luciano worked at the renowned Villa d’Este resort in Como, Italy, as well as on the Sitmar and Princess cruise lines.

Today, Bruna’s offers a wide assortment of pasta dishes, tender veal, and, of course, Bella Bruna’s original roast chicken recipe, still served every Sunday. They also boast what many say is the city’s best tiramisu, which Luciano makes himself.

Luciano remains involved greeting customers as well as pouring wine and making espresso.

We dined al fresco on the barricaded street, set up with the tables for diners from the group of restaurants up and down the block on both sides of the street.  

Following fresh Italian bread with virgin Olive Oil and fresh parmigiana cheese, Linda ordered from the classic authentic Italian menu for her entree, the appetizer bowl of fresh mussels in white wine sauce. 

We were served by Josef who has been on the waitstaff there for a mere seventeen years, having also worked previously at the legendary former Como Inn, another Chicago Italian cuisine institution in its day. He followed his father who also served in the notable Italian restaurants in the city and the neighborhood. 

At Josef’s recommendation, I ordered from the Chef’s Specialties, Veal Saltimbocca Alla Romana from the broad selection of Veal and Chicken dishes on offer, along with a side dish of Fettucini Alfredo.

Bruna’s offers an extensive wine list featuring mainly Italian wines with some Californian selections. Bruna’s also imports a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a wine made near Luciano’s Italian hometown which is offered by the glass and by the bottle.

They also offer a full page Reserve “Cellar Selections” that includes many classic premier Italian producers and labels including Biondo Santi, Casanova de Neri, Masseto, Gaja, Solaia, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Valdicava and Tignanello. 

The Cellar Selections Reserve list also offered well known super premium American California classics including Dominus, Quintessa, Phelps Insignia, Opus One, Schafer Hillside, Caymus Special Select, Plumpjack, Far Niente, Groth Reserve and Darioush. 

We ordered this classic traditional Chianti Classico Sangiovese as a perfect wine accompaniment to our Italian cuisine. 

Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana 2018

This highly regarded Isole e Olena is from producer/winemaker Paolo de Marchi. Isole e Olena is named for the formation of the two estates that were purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. 

Fourth generation winemaker Paolo De Marchi studied Agriculture at the University of Turin and worked harvests in California and France before returning to the family estate in 1976. He improved the property in the Chianti Classico region through redevelopment and modernization.

De Marchi earned a reputation as “Mr. Sangiovese” and also the “Dean of Chianti” gaining notoriety balancing tradition with innovation by planting international varieties. 

This label of Cepparello was first produced in 1980 and is widely acclaimed as one of the greatest expressions of Sangiovese.  

He sold the estate and completed his last vintage for Isole e Olena in 2022 after 50 years. His final releases got rave reviews with ratings in the high nineties - the 2021 getting 99 points from James Suckling, 97 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 96 points from Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker notes and description of the complex 2015 Cepparello: “Shows lots of black cherries, cranberry tea, caramelized orange peel, roasted herbs and citrus peel. Full-bodied with ripe and quite round tannins that frame layers of cherries. Bright and fresh, yet rich and long at the same time. The Sangiovese character really springs out of the glass.”

This 2018 Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Decanter and Vinous, and 92 by Kerrin O’Keefe.

This was my first experience with this producer and I’ll be on the lookout for it in the future while the current era vintages are still available. 

Dark red/purplish colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, bold, bright expressive bright dried cherry and dark berry fruits, notes of cassis, balsam herb spice, lavender finishing with menthol and exprsso with round tannins on a savory slightly aggressive expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956336

https://www.brunasristorante.com/

Barolo with Lobster Ravioli

Limited Release Barolo with Lobster Ravioli 

 
We had leftover lobster ravioli pasta in vodka cream sauce from our fabulous dinner at Emmolfo Miramar Beach over the weekend - featured in these pages in this blogpost - Hudson Chardonnay BYOB dinner at Commelfo Miramar Beach.

I opened this highly rated special release Nebbiolo that I had just acquired earlier in the day at the new Total Wine super store, just opened in the community, and was eager try. 

Mauro Sebaste 40th Anniversary Barolo 2019 

This is from Mauro Sebaste Winery, founded in 1991 by Mauro Dogliani, evolved from the Barolo estate founded by his mother, Sylla Dogliani, known as “La Dama di Langa”. He is joined in the family venture by his wife Maria Teresa and their daughters, Sylla and Angelica, and the latest generation, Sylla's daughters Costanza, Celeste and Camilla.

The winery estate is located in the village of Alba as are vineyards located in the area of Santa Rosalia, on the ridge of the hill that lies between Diano d’Alba and Grinzane Cavour. 

They operate nearly 80 acres of vineyards that are located in more than 10 different communes, between Langhe, Roero and Monferrato Astigiano in the Barolo DOCG (Appellation) in the Italian Piedmont wine region. The area is located roughly midway between Genoa on the Mediterranean cost, and the inland city of Turin in northwestern Italy. 

Mauro Sebaste produce a portfolio of Barolo wines comprised 100% from the Nebbiolo grape, the signature designated varietal of the area in accordance with DOCG specifications. The grapes are sourced mainly from Serralunga d’Alba, one of the main communes in the DOCG area, where the terroir is ideally suited for Nebbiolo grapes to reach their potential excellence resulting in wines of rare strength, elegance and complexity. Other estate vineyards of Nebbiolo da Barolo grapes are located in the territory of equally prestigious municipalities such as La Morra, Verduno and Monforte d’Alba.

In total they produce an average of 150,000 bottles a year, spread across several different labels and types  as well as a range of grappas wines made from our pomace.

Mauro Sebaste 2019 Barolo Edizione Limitata 40 Vendemmia

This special label is a limited release of just 3,300 bottles that celebrates the four-decade anniversary of the estate. 

James suckling rated this label 94 points while Wine Advocate rated this label 91 points. 

After malolactic fermentation, the wine matured in large 15 hl French oak barrels for 30 months. Two fractions were matured separately, only blended just before bottling, then the wine matured in the bottle for at least an additional six months.

Slightly opaque ruby colored with slight garnet hues, medium to full bodied, expressive bright vibrant rich, complex black cherry and raspberry fruits, with notes of clove spice, tea leaf, cassis, smokey oak and tangy acidity firm with ultra-fine tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4986236

https://maurosebaste.it/en/home-english/

Cortese di Gavi with Lobster and Alaskan Halibut

Cortese di Gavi with (leftover) Lobster and Alaskan Halibut

With left overs, Lobster Roll from our lunch at Legal Seafood Chicago, 

and Alaskan Herb Crusted Halibut with Roasted Peppers, Corn and Regianno Parmagiana Risoto and Brocolini from our Friday night Favorites at Entourage Restaurant in DG, …

I opened from the cellar this simple pleasant sipping traditional Italian White wine. 

This is from Bricco dei Guazzi a centuries-old winery that dates back to the 16th century in the medieval village of Olivola, in Gavi, in the Piedmont region's southeast, in the province of Alessandria, one of Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones, Gavi is also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi.

Built in 1585, the historic estate of Bricco dei Guazzi and its Villa del Bel Riposo (Beautiful Rest Villa), was the home of the Guazzo and Candiani noble families. Stefano Guazzo built the Chateau in honor of his wife, Francesca.

Gavi is the main town of the area, which is planted to the local Cortese grape. Cortese for Gavi is grown in any of 11 communes in the area where the soils are abundant in chalky, white, limestone-rich clay. The best Gavi from these locations are delicately floral, with stone fruit and citrus characters and a crisp, mineral-laden finish.

While typically made in a fresh and unoaked style, by law Gavi can come in many forms: frizzante, spumante, metodo classico and méthode ancestrale. Most producers maintain a conventional winemaking practice of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and make fresh, still whites, employing several barrique-aged methods. 

First recorded in the early 17th century in the province of Alessandria in SouthEast Piedmont, Cortese today is most highly regarded from Gavi where soils are limestone-rich. It also grows well in the surrounding zones, namely Monferrato and Colli Tortonesi.

The villa is surrounded by 35 hectares of vineyards on the hills near Casale Monferrato. The large winery building was built in 1700 on the north side of the ancient courtyard. Underneath the villa are ancient wine caves excavated into the hillside. The wine is produced worked by gravity: the grapes were passed into the masonry fermentation tanks and the wine was cascaded into large barrels on the lower floor.

Today, the modern winery supports the traditional production methods with modern structures that reach the capacity of over 2000 hl: the stainless steel tanks, with temperature control systems, and the modern bottling plant.

They also produce a portfolio of a dozen wines, white, rose’, sweet, and several reds from Monserrat’s traditional grape varietals, Cortese, Nebbiolo, Alborasso, and international varietals Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Bricco dei Guazzi Gavi Cortese 2021

This is 100% Cortese Gentile grape. 

As is customary in the area, this is produced from the Cortese grape, a native vine of very ancient origins, widely cultivated in the Alessandria area In the Municipality of Gavi, from which the wine takes its name. Cortese produces lean, crisp, vital, ready to drink, immediately pleasant wines.

Producer Notes - “This wine is a straw-yellow hue of mid-range intensity. It boasts clear floral scents accompanied by a hint of melon and a light suggestion of citrus. To the palate it's elegant, very fresh and tasty, balancing the variety's typical acidity with a 'gentile' profile with good drinkability. Food Pairing: Great as an aperitif and when served with savory canapés and starters in general. Ideal for serving with the delicate white fish”.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4254314

https://www.briccodeiguazzi.it/en

Red & White Indy Racer Wines for Beefsteak and Shrimp Dinner

Red & White Wines for Beefsteak and Shrimp Dinner

We were joined for dinner by Sis/in-law Pat and Rodger and friends Steve and Carol-Ann, who used our house as a staging stop-over as they flew out and then back into Chicago O’hare International airport. 

Linda prepared beef flank steak and shrimp with rice, roasted potatoes and vegetables.

I pulled from the cellar a special Napa Red and White for pairing with the surf & turf dinner.

Taking into account our guests being from Indianapolis, I opened bottles from Indianapolis 500 Race drivers, legend Mario Andretti and Randy Lewis.

Notably, both wineries have been sold or closed since acquiring these wines.

Andretti Cellars Montona Napa Valley Chardonnay 2015 

We discovered this wine and the Montona portfolio/brand when we visited the Andretti Winery and Estate in southeast Napa Valley during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. I wrote about that visit in a more detailed blogpost earlier, and about the Montona brand and this particular label in another previous blopost. 

This label is from the Montona Reserve brand, the high end premium line of the Andretti portfolio. The line is named for the village of Montona, the hometown of the Andretti family and birthplace of the legend racer turned wine producer.

Mario’s birthplace, Montona d’Istria, Italy, is now called Motovun and is in Croatia; at the time of his birth in 1940, it was part of Italy but it was annexed by the former Yugoslavia after World War II. 

Mario is not the only Napa ‘vintner’ with the distinction of being born in what is now Croatia – legendary winemaker Mike Grgich was also born in Croatia in the small village of Desne.

Mario fell in love with wine through numerous trips around the world as a result of his racing career; he would seek out the finest wines in various regions and wine became a part of his lifestyle. 

Andretti Winery was established in 1996 by the famed race car driver, Mario Andretti in a joint venture project with Joe Antonini, former CEO of Kmart, who was one of Mario’s sponsors during his racing days.

Andretti and Antonini purchased land along Big Ranch Road in Napa Valley’s Oak Knoll District (a short drive north of the city of Napa). In 2001 they sold the property to Laird Family Winery and agreed a 20-year operational lease for the Andretti Winery and hospitality space. That lease expired in March 2021 at which point Andretti Winery closed its doors and no longer sees visitors at that winery location. For the next couple years Andretti Winery hosted visitors by either walk-in or appointment at Feast it Forward tasting room in downtown Napa but those tastings are no longer being offered. 

Andretti continues to lease about 42 acres of vineyards surrounding the winery, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. They also purchase grapes from other vineyards in select locations in Napa Valley.

Several brands were produced under the Andretti label including their Napa Valley Series (wines that are not vineyard designates), the Villa Andretti Series (reasonably priced limited production wines that focus on Italian varieties from grapes typically not growing in Napa Valley) and the Montona Series is named after Mario’s childhood home in Italy and features their most premium limited production wines with a number of bottlings limited to just 50 cases.

Each vintage, Andretti Winemaker Bob Pepi selected from the finest fruit to create wines for the limited production Montona series of labels - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, a Super Tuscan and this Chardonnay. Produced was very limited to as few as fifty cases each and allocated available directly from the producer, to Andretti Winery Wine Club Members. We procured our allocation through our membership in the Wine Club.





Photos of the former Andretti Winery estate, a small faux Italian/Tuscan building and courtyard with picturesque fountains and landscaping. There was a small cottage, patios and lawns that are available for small private tastings and picturesque grounds which would be ideal for a private event or special outing.

Andretti Montona Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2015

The Andretti Winery Montona Napa Valley Chardonnay went through full malolactic fermentation and was aged 16 months in 30% new French oak barrels. This is our last bottle of our limited holdings. 

As noted above, this label is not Estate bottled, meaning the grapes for the juice in the bottles are not necessarily grown on the property, but rather, may have been purchased from contract growers. As such, the (rear) label cites the wine is merely "Bottled by Andretti Winery".

Hence, with all due respect to the legendary Indy Racecar driver, Mario Anrdretti, and his benefactor investor partner in the winery venture, former CEO of K-Mart Joe Antonini, they are tenant wine producers, not landowners or winery estate owners.

As a wine collector and onephile, I would prefer to support family owned farmer/grower winemakers who produce wines from grapes produced on their properties. This provides a consistent source of fruit year after year and thereby allows for the focus on terroir and its impact on the wine from vintage to vintage, as a basis for comparison over the years, and as a comparison against other similarly situated terroir focused wines.

Winemaker notes - “Our Montona Chardonnay exudes complex aromas of fresh stone fruit, Meyer lemon and floral notes complemented by subtle oak overtones of almond and crème brulee. On the palate, the wine is exploding with flavors of pear, toasted almond and spiced apple. Minimal new oak allows the wine to retain its natural fruit characteristics and varietal focus.”

This is not an oaky or buttery profile wine. It is butter to medium golden in color, medium bodied, moderately rich and concentrated pear, peach and stone fruits with notes of floral, jasmine and citrus with toasted oak spices on the lingering finish.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3599050

http://andrettiwinery.com/

https://twitter.com/AndrettiWine 

@Andrettiwine  

We then opened this big red wine from another Indy Race Car Driver, Randy Lewis, whose winery ironically was across the road from the (former) Andretti Winery Estate.

Lewis Cellars Alec’s Blend 2015

We wrote about our private Lewis Cellars Napa Chateau Visit and Tasting in an earlier blogpost, excerpted here. Our visit to the Chateau of Lewis Cellars winery was one of the highlights of our Pour Boys 2017 Napa Wine Experience. 

I've often written in these pages about the fun we have with this branding, with its signature 'L' on the label, ala Laverne and Shirley, or wife Linda, or her mother Lucy, or our daughter Erin Leigh, or her daughter, our first grandchild/daughter Lucy! 

That coupled with the Hoosier heritage of Randy Lewis, Indy 500 race driver from our native Indiana, and, their affinity to family, naming labels after their grandkids - Alec, Ethan and Mason, we adopted Alec's Blend as a signature label for son Alec and feature it at family celebrations.

Lewis wines are family favorites for such special occasions, punctuated by this namesake Blend for son Alec. Lewis Cabernets are some of our favorites and we have a decade long vertical of Alec's as well as their Cabernets, dating back to this '97.

This blend is dedicated to Randy and Debbie Lewis' first grandson, Alec, who was born on the day of the harvest of the grapes for this wine leading to the name. I learned at our tasting that this is the inaugural vintage of this label/blend of which we still hold two bottles, and every vintage bottle since.

At the time of the writing of this blogpost, the blog search shows twelve postings of Lewis wines (Lewis Cellars (12)). Scrolling through those tastings are posts tied to many memorable family and friend wine tastings and dinners.

Tuesday, April 4, 2017 - Lewis Alec's Blend 1997 - Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Alec's Blend 1997 - Son Alec's Signature Namesake Label selection for his birthday eve dinner.

Sunday, May 10, 2015 - Mothers Day Family Dinner Features Lewis Alec's Blend

Sunday, August 17, 2014 - Family Celebration Dinner - Favorite Wines & Foods

Family Celebration Dinner - Favorite Wines & Foods for our anniversary celebration family dinner featuring Lewis Cellars Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Friday, December 25, 2015 - Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Alec's Blend 2003 - Son Alec's Signature Namesake Label for Family Holiday Celebration Dinner
Thursday, August 30, 2012 - Alec's Blend, Robert Craig Affinity, Penn Shore Diamond 

Saturday, May 5, 2012 - Graduation celebration wine tasting flight featuring 1990 vintage birthyear wines. Gala celebration of son Alec and his roommates' graduation from Indiana U, Kelly School of Business, featuring specially selected wine flight of namesake or other memorable wines saved for the occasion.

So it was that we have some experience with Lewis wines going back two decades.

Like Andretti, Lewis didn’t own their own vineyards, they have long term contracts with many grower sources, some for terms as long as thirty years. We collect and drink some other wines similarly situated such as Freemark Abbey and their long term affiliation with the Bosche' vineyard, source for their vineyard designated select Cabernet which we own going back to the '92 vintage.

Lewis sourced the finest fruit from Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford and Oak Knoll for our their varietals. Chardonnay comes from Oak Knoll and Russian River Valley. Each site was selected for a specific varietal character, with many of the vineyards being planted exclusively for them.

Notably, Lewis Cellars was acquired in 2021 by Paso Robles-based Justin Vineyards and Winery, which is owned by the company behind Fiji Water.

Vin’Tij SanDestin Food and Wine Dinner

Vin’Tij SanDestin Food and Wine Dinner 

After a fun-filled afternoon of wine paired with foods at Vin’Tij Food & Wine, we booked a table for a follow-on Saturday night dinner. I wrote about that wine tasting in this blogpost - Wine tasting at Vin’Tij Grand Boulevard (San)Destin.

The plan was to drink BYOB one of the ultra-premium bottles we purchased in the Vin’Tij Wine Boutique for the occasion.

I write often in these pages about the price charged by restaurants for their wines, often expressed as a function of the retail price of the wine. It is customary that a restaurant charges 2 times the retail price of a wine. Often the restaurant price is 2.5 times or more. 

Establishments that combine a restaurant with a wine retailer provide the best and most economical scenario for the consumer whereby the restaurant price equals near the retail price - a 1:1 ratio. In this scenario, the restaurant is relying solely on the gross margin uplift between the wholesale price paid and the retail price charged the diner. 

Two such establishments exist in Destin, Vin’Tij and also Chan’s Wine World that is connected to and associated with the adjoining Wine Bar restaurants. Diners seeking a food and wine experience can leverage these policies for great value dining. And, they can take the opportunity to upgrade their wine choices with higher premium or ultra-premium wines they otherwise not be able to afford or justify for wine experimentation or appreciation!   

For our Saturday Night Vint’Tij dinner, we were joined by Richard and Victoria, friends and neighbors in our Destin residential community. 

Planning to order grilled beefsteaks for our entrees, I took BYOB a Washington State Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend from Force Majeure. 

This is from Force Majeure Vineyards, originally called Grand Reve, founded in Woodinville, near Seattle, in 2004, a collaboration between businessman Paul McBride and vineyard manager Ryan Johnson who spent a decade managing vineyards in Eastern Washington’s prestigious Red Mountain AVA. 

McBride and his wife Susan then changed the winery name to Force Majeure, and hired winemaker Todd Alexander to oversee winemaking. Alexander was previously winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyard in Napa Valley. 

Jeb Dunnick of Wine Advocate has called Force Majeure “One of my favorite estates in Washington…”

We tasted and acquired this wine during our Force Majeure Vineyards Site Visit and Tasting back in 2018 as featured in these pages, and excerpted below.

One of the inspirations for and objectives of that Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018 was to visit Force Majeure vineyards. We first met Force Majeure winemaker Todd Alexander and marketing, distribution and branding exec Carrie Alexander during the Chicago stop of their promotion tour in 2016 when we hosted them at Italian Village in Chicago. Since then we've acquired a respectable collection of Force Majeure wines, hence, they were one of our shortlist priority visits when we planned our Washington State, Columbia Valley wine trip.

Force Majeure Carrie Alexander and Linda

Following our Woodinville (Washington) tasting experience where we tasted several fabulous  Red Mountain AVA wines, we were targeting there for our first Washington State wine appellation visit. Carrie convinced us to visit Walla Walla and we followed her guidance and were amply rewarded as it was a spectacular wine travel experience. Our Walla Walla AVA visit provided the opportunity to visit a vibrant wine region, meet some legendary winemakers on the Washington wine scene, and still experience the best of Red Mountain appellation wines as well!

Force Majeure have vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA where they grow Rhone varietals on the upper slopes and Bordeaux varietals on the lower blocks of the site. According to Carrie, the varietal blocks are based on the selection and matching of the grape varieties to the appropriate soil composition in the eight different soil types on the site.

The Red Mountain site was the very first vineyard on the steep, rocky upper slopes of Red Mountain. Developing the Red Mountain estate vineyards involved carefully matching varietal and clonal selections and vineyard trellising and irrigation to the eight distinct soil types in the vineyard.

The site was formed by the ancient Missoula floods, winds and volcanic activity resulting in many small “micro-blocks,” each uniquely suited to specific grape varietals. The rocky upper-slope with shallow soil is well suited to the cultivation of Rhone varietals such as Syrah and Grenache, while the lower blocks of the vineyard are comprised of deep, well-drained Warden soils, where Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc excel.

This Force Majeure Épinette Right Bank Bordeaux style blend was a perfect complement to our aged prime steak dinner, including my perfectly prepared 'Pittsburgh' style, served with mashed potatoes, haricot verts and mushroom Bordelaise sauce. 

Force Majeure Épinette Columbia Valley Red Mountain Red Blend 2015

Épinette is Force Majeure's Right-bank Bordeaux-inspired blend, and was named after an avenue in Libourne that leads to Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, the home of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Épinette is also the name of a musical instrument akin to a piano, as well as a word for pine tree, which is a fitting nod to the locale's in Washington state.

Épinette is a Bordeaux blend in the 'Right Bank' style meaning it is primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

The blend for this 2014 vintage was 58%  Merlot,  22%  Cabernet Franc 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remaining 5% Petit Verdot.

The Merlot and Cabernet Franc are grown in the lower areas of the Red Mountain vineyard with its  deep, well-drained soils. The wine was aged for approximately 22 months in mostly new French oak.

It was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93-95 points by The Wine Advocate, 92 by Stephen Tanzer and 90 points by Wine Spectator.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant forward dense black berry, ripe black raspberry and black current fruits with notes of cigar box, earthy leather, anise, graphite and spicy oak and hints of dark mocha chocolate with gripping but approachable silky tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4507644

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/

https://vintij.com/

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove with Lasagna

Linda babysat for kids/grandkid so D-in-law Vivianna prepared home-made lasagna with Italian Sausage. I opened from our cellar this Italian Red Bordeaux Blend for a food wine pairing. 

This wine, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove, is produced by Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, the renowned winery located in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany, Italy, producers of the exceptional flagship blend known as Ornellaia.

Bolgheri, where the estate is located, is a small village on the picturesque Tuscan coast, in the Maremma region near the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its distinctive terroir, characterized by a blend of sand, marl, marine fossils, clay, limestone, and pebbles, coupled with a mild maritime climate and cooling sea breezes, creates ideal conditions for growing high-quality grapes, particularly the Bordeaux varieties used in Ornellaia's wines.

Ornellaia is somewhat of a legend, one of the first “Super-Tuscans”, the result of Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s vision and ambition to produce a great Bordeaux-style wine in Tuscany. The first vineyards were planted in 1981 and today have expanded to almost 250 acres.

Today, the winery is owned by the Frescobaldi family, one of seven estates they own and manage across the Northern Italian Tuscany Bolgheri region, some of which have been in the family dating back to the 1300's.

I first discovered this wine dining at Italian Village in the city (Chicago) for a team business dinner, selected from the vast Italian Village extraordinary wine cellar list crafted and curated by friend Jared Gelband, Wine Director.

I wrote about this label in an earlier blogpost in these pages, excerpted here.

The Ornellaia vineyard totals 280 acres that are divided into more than 70 vineyard plots according to soil type, exposition and varietal. There are three major soil types: marine (sedimentary deposit from the sea), alluvial (marly, sandy clays with mineral veins), and volcanic (schist, gravel and porous soils). All the vineyards are about 3 miles from the Mediterranean shore. The mild maritime climate features sea breezes that keep the sky clear, low rainfall, and long summers that favor the development of aromatic compounds. Vineyards are planted at high density, from 5,000-8,700 hl/ha, and feature several training systems – spur-pruned cordon, single Guyot, and head-pruned vines.

Bolgheri, where the winery is located, is a small village nestled along the picturesque Tuscan coast, specifically in the Maremma region near the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its unique terroir, characterized by a blend of sand, marl, marine fossils, clay, limestone, and pebbles, coupled with a mild maritime climate and cooling sea breezes, creates ideal conditions for growing high-quality grapes, particularly the Bordeaux varieties used in Ornellaia's wines. 

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia was founded in 1981 by Marchese Lodovico Antinori. Antinori, a member of a prominent Tuscan winemaking family, was inspired to create wines of exceptional quality in the Bolgheri region. He planted Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, which led to the first vintage of Ornellaia in 1985. The estate's commitment to quality and expression of the terroir quickly gained recognition for the wines, leading to international acclaim.

Over the years, Ornellaia's ownership changed hands, though its dedication to quality remains a constant. Robert Mondavi acquired a minority stake in 1999 and full ownership in 2002. The Mondavi Corporation later entered into a partnership with the Frescobaldi family, another distinguished name in Tuscan winemaking. In 2005, the Frescobaldi family became the sole proprietor of Ornellaia, and continues to manage the estate today. 

Throughout its history, Ornellaia has benefited from the expertise of talented winemakers, including André Tchelistcheff in its early years, and Michel Rolland as a long-time consultant. Most recently, Axel Heinz served as the winemaker and Estate Director for over 17 years, and his legacy includes a project called Vendemmia d'Artista which involves collaboration with artists for special vintage releases. The current production manager for both Ornellaia and the super ultra-premium brand is Masseto is Marco Balsimelli.

First released in 1997, Le Serre Nuove is the 'Second' wine of ultra-premium Ornellaia, produced to broaden the selection of wines crafted during the crafting of the base wines of Ornellaia. It is produced mainly from younger vines, but crafted to match the profile of freshness, accessibility and flexibility with structure, balance and intensity that showcase the great terroirs of the producer’s properties.

This was an ideal pairing with the zesty lasagna. 

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove 2019

The 2019 Le Serre Nuove Dell'Ornellaia is 54% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot. 

This release was rated 95 by James Suckling, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Decanter and Wine & Spirits, 93 points by Vinous and Wine Spectator, and 92 by Jeb Dunnuck.

Winemaker's notes - “With its hallmark deep colour, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2019 has a lively balsamic vein. Soft and silky, elegant tannins and an enduring savoury finish fill the mouth.” - Olga Fusari – Winemaker - May 2021.

Winemaker Notes - “With its usual intense color, Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2019 has a nose full of fresh notes of ripe red fruits, accompanied by a lively balsamic vein with aromatic hints of cypress and eucalyptus berries. The wine is soft and silky in the mouth, filling it with an elegant tannic texture and a sapid and persistent finish.”

The winemaker’s description of “lively balsamic” best describes the predominate flavor sprite of this wine. Dark garnet colored, full bodied, the black currant and blackberry fruits are accented by that layer with savory notes of smoke, rosemary spice, black pepper, leather and hints of creosote and cedar with a lively moderate tannin laced finish.  

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4080770

https://www.ornellaia.com/en/

https://twitter.com/Ornellaia

Pour Boys Summer Wine Dinner

Pour Boys Summer Wine Dinner 

Dr Dan and Linda hosted our Pour Boys Wine Group (sans Bill and Beth C who were traveling in St Julien, Bordeaux this week) for a gala summer dinner. 

As is customary, we each brought a couple bottles of wines to share and compare for pairing with the food. 

The ‘three amigos’ were reunited with Bob and Gloria flying in from Miami for the occasion. 

Besides Linda and I and Bob and Gloria, we were joined by Dan’s friends, Joe and Linda, and Linda S, as well as our Pour Boys Wine Group regulars, Ernie, Eric and Cathy and Lyle and Terry. 

Dan laid out his usual selection of artisan cheeses, nuts, chocolates, crackers and smoked salmon. 

The dinner feature theme this evening was ‘Sausage’ and there were five different sausages for the entree course, accompanied by corn on the cob, baked beans, potato salad, bean salad, quiche casserole and accoutrements. 

The sausages included Joe’s homemade Italian Sausage with cheese, Sheboygan Bratwurst, Polish Sausage, Chicken Sausage, and Dan’s legendary family favorite, Cavapcici. 

After dinner there was a dessert sundae bar with ice cream and toppings, and a broad selection of Linda M’s home baked cookies, brownies, pierogis and assorted artisan chocolates, nuts, fresh berries, melon and pineapple with yogurt.

The collective group brought a wide selection of white and red wines as well as sparkling wine and champagne before dinner, and after dinner ‘sticky’ dessert wines and a vintage port. 

The White Wine flight included  …

Domaine Wachau Ried Traunthal Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 

Dr Loosen Erdenner Treppchen Mosel Riesling Ausliese 2019 

Darioush Napa Valley Viognier 2010 

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020   

Sea Smoke Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2018

The Red Wine flight included …

Le Fonti Poggino Gran Selzione Chianti Classico 2018

Nino Negri Valtelina Superiore Inferno Ca’ Guicciardi (Nebbiolo) 2020

Sea Smoke Southing Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2018

Peter Michel “Les Pavots” Knights Valley Red Wine 2012 

Chateau Magdeleine St Emilion Premiere Grand Cru Classe 2011 

Hickinbotham “Brook’s Road”  McLaren Vale Clarendon Shiraz 2020 

After Dinner dessert wines … 

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Graham’s Vintage Port 1991 

Unlike our typical wine dinners, that most often feature red meats and customary pairings of sophisticated Red Wines, tonight’s entree theme offered the chance to showcase and focus on White Wines as select food/wine pairings. 

The White Wines … 

Domaine Wachau Ried Traunthal Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 

Eric brought this classic Austrian Gruner Veltliner that he and Cathy tasted and acquired at the winery during their trip to the region last summer. 

Dr. Loosen Erdenner Mosel River Valley Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2019 

I brought from our cellar this highly rated premium Mosel Treppchen Riesling Auslese from a classic legendary producer.  Only the finest most select grapes are used in the “Auslese” (outstanding) bottling. This release was rated 95 points by both Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and James Suckling. 

Darioush Napa Valley Viognier 2010 

I also brought this interesting Viognier from ultra-premium Napa Valley producer Darioush, tasted and acquired at the winery during our Pour Boy’s Napa Valley Wine Experience 2017 - Darioush Napa Valley Estate Winery Visit & Tasting. 

This was the favorite wine of Dan’s daughter, Lauren, who accompanied us on that trip, which was also Linda A’s first Napa Valley wine experience. Darioush was also the featured producer at the first wine dinner we had with Bill and Beth C, which was the beginnings of what became our Pour Boys Wine Group. 

Also, Dan was our guest at a special Darioush Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago hosted by owner producer Darioush and Shaptar Khaledi celebrating their collaboration with Olivier Bernard and Domaine de Chevalier in Pesaac Leognan Bordeaux. This was held back in 2004.shortly after Linda and I visited the winery and did a barrel tasting with winemaker Steve McDevitt during the construction of their magnificent hospitality center.

We had two wonderful ultra/premium Chardonnay’s …. Both offered great pairings with the sausage selections.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020   

Joe brought this classic, legendary Napa Valley crowd pleaser from Chateau Montelena. Of course, this was the label that put American wine on the map having won the historic blind tasting “Judgement of Paris”, chronicled and recreated in the wonderful entertaining wine movie, “Bottle Shock” - (Trailer).

 

Sea Smoke Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2018

Dan opened from his cellar collection, wine club allocation, Sea Smoke, a great comparison tasting to the Montelena. 

The Red Wines … 

Le Fonti Poggino Gran Selzione Chianti Classico 2018

Eric brought this Italian Sangiovese blend, acquired by one of his partners at the producer during a visit to the Chianti region in Northern Italy. 

https://www.lefontipoggibonsi.it/

Nino Negri Valtelina Superiore Inferno Ca’ Guicciardi (Nebbiolo) 2020

We tasted and Dan acquired this premium Nebbiolo at one of the Italian Village featured producer wine dinners. We’ve dined together at several Italian Village producer wine dinners, the most notably arguably being the memorable Sassicaia Owner Dinner and Vivere Vertical Tasting.

Peter Michel “Les Pavots” Knights Valley Red Wine 2012

Ernie brought from his home cellar one of my favorites, this vintage aged highly allocated ultra-premium Alexander Valley Bordeaux Blend from Peter Michel.

Chateau Magdeleine St Emilion Premiere Grand Cru Classe 2011

Dan contributed from his cellar this vintage aged Bordeaux.  

Hickinbotham “Brook’s Road”  McLaren Vale Clarendon Shiraz 2020 

Lyle brought from his home cellar this highly rated allocated limited release Aussie Shiraz. It received 95 points by Wine enthusiast. 

After 40 years of Hickinbotham family ownership, the property was purchased by the Jackson family in 2012. The pedigree of the Hickinbotham Vineyards was long established in that prior to the change of ownership, grapes from the 85-hectare vineyard were only sold to an esteemed list of winemakers including including Penfolds, Clarendon Hills and Hardys. Hickinbotham grapes were credited to legendary flagship wines like Penfolds Grange and Eileen Hardy Shiraz. Only Clarendon Hills released vineyard-designate wines bearing the “Hickinbotham” name.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4365339

https://www.hickinbothamwines.com/wines/brooks-road-shiraz

Sea Smoke Southing Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2018

Dan opened his cellar to share this wine club acquisition ultra-premium Sta Rita Hills Pinot. 

After dinner there was a dessert sundae bar with ice cream and toppings, and a broad selection of Linda M’s home baked cookies, brownies, pierogis and assorted artisan chocolates, nuts, fresh berries, melon and pineapple with yogurt. 

The dessert wine flight …

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Graham’s Vintage Port 1991

Lyle brought from his cellar collection this premium Vintage Port. This is one of the last remaining bottles of the four cases he acquired of this label upon release. We’ve enjoyed tasting this wine over the last three decades as it has aged gracefully. 

At 30 plus years, the label, foil and most importantly the fill level were ideal for the age. Lyle was able to extract the cork using an ahso two pronged cork puller, necessary as the aged cork was starting to crumble and would’ve most likely disintegrated using a customary corkscrew. 

Vintage Port is only produced in ‘declared’ vintages, those of sufficient quality to warrant the designation.The 1991 vintage was the first ‘Declared Vintage’ for six years – the longest gap between declarations for decades. (The previous declared vintage, 1985 was son Sean’s birthyear, in which we acquired and still hold a broad horizontal collection of labels commemorating such.) 

At thirty-four years, this is entering another stage of its tasting profile, perhaps, some would argue, now reaching the apex, but, the last stage of its optimal tasting window.

Chateau d’Yquem 2013 

Ernie brought from his home cellar, multi-decade vertical collection, this ultra-premium classic Sauternes Chateau D’Yquem, considered a ‘first growth’ by many, always a special treat! We’ve enjoyed this label in several of our wine dinners including D'Yquem, Quintessa, Saxum Highlight OTBN 2016 - Three tastings flights.

Far Niente Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2014

Linda S brought this imaginative, rare, ‘new world’ late harvest Sauternes style ‘botritized’ dessert wine, Dolce - a wonderful comparison to the classic ‘old world’ legend Chateau d’YQuem. Ironically, I pulled from our cellar and considered bringing this same label, albeit a different (older) vintage. It was great that Linda brought this for a special comparison and pairing. It also allowed me the opportunity to witness the aging of my vintage bottle (s). 

This is from ultra-premium Napa Valley producer Far Niente who boast being “America’s only winery to specialize in a single, exquisite dessert wine crafted in the cherished Sauternes style”. 

They have fun with this wine they call Dolce, which derives it’s name from “Dolce far niente", an Italian phrase that translates to "the sweetness of doing nothing".

This is a 90-10 blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from the 20-acre Dolce Vineyard situated east of Napa in Coombsville at the foot of the Vaca Mountains. This was aged 30 months in 100% new French oak. 

We enjoyed this wine together with Dan and Linda, Bob and Gloria, and Bill and Beth, at our festive Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen.

Photo (left) taken from that dinner. 

https://farniente.com/wineries/dolce

Thanks and kudos to Linda and Dan for hosting another festive gala dinner.