Wednesday, September 2, 2020

Big Red Wine Flight for BBQ Rib Dinner

Big Red Wine Flight for BBQ Rib Dinner

Continuing our family reunion and related festivities, Linda prepared BBQ ribs and we opened a couple Big Red Blends suited for the pairing. As is our custom, we have fun with wine labels and we served two signature wines, one, Alec's signature namesake wine, and one of the 'V' wines that we commemorate to Vivanna, this one from Venge Vineyards. Also, as Alec and Viv just acquired their new puppy, this is a tribute as this label honors the late and beloved Venge family pet and vineyard dog, Labrador Retriever, Scout.  We met Scout when we toured the vineyards with patriarch, legendary winemaker Nils Venge back in the mid-nineties. 

Lewis Cellars Alec's Blend 2003 

More on Alec's Blend 2003 from my last tasting and blog post five years ago

Venge Vineyards Scout's Honor 2018 

This is a mainstay of our cellar that we keep on hand for such occasions. We have a half dozen vintages of this label in our cellar, drinking and cycling the oldest, replacing it as we go with the latest current release. This is the latest, most current release in which they introduced the new branding of a painted wine bottle as opposed to the more traditional and modest glued paper label. This was our first tasting of this vintage release that just appeared in distribution in Chicagoland in recent weeks and is slated for general distribution this winter. 

This wine is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, robust, fruit filled red wine based on old-vine Zinfandel and blended with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finished with mountain vineyard Syrah. 

The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.

The blend for this release is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and 9% Syrah; aged in 50% new American Oak and the balance in once-used tight grained French Oak for 14 Months.

Grapes were farmed and harvested from four single vineyards in Napa Valley. The Zinfandel was picked from two, old-vine (60 to 100+ years old), dry-farmed vineyard sources: Venge’s newly acquired “Signal Fire Vineyard” estate, and the Frediani Vineyard—both located in the heart of Calistoga. The Charbono is from old, dry-farmed vines (60 to 100+ years old) also planted in the Frediani Vineyard. Robbie Mondavi’s Oso Vineyard located on Howell Mountain supplies the Petite Sirah; the Syrah from  Napa’s finest, from Stagecoach Vineyard, high in the mountains of the Atlas Peak AVA.

The Winemaker notes sum it up perfectly: "The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.'

"This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of violets, anise, honeysuckle, blue herbs, and a touch of vanillin. The palate is pure richness with loads black fruits and currants, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness lead to a wine that is quite pleasing to the senses. Cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years."

Everyone loved this wine, especially with the tangy BBQ ribs. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.vengevineyards.com/ 

Finally, in follow up to our Mt Veeder Appellation tasting the other evening, another wine from a producer that we visited and tasted during that Napa Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011.

Godspeed Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

We discovered and acquired this wine at the vineyard/producer during our Napa Mt Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011. I wrote back in 2015 about this label, "This was drinking very nicely in its twelfth year and may be at its prime, not likely to improve further with more aging. This 2004 was the best showing of this label that I have had to my recollection. This is a small production label from this boutique producer. Ironically, I saw some available just this week at Total Wine in Minnesota.' 

"Dark blackish purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, aromatic, black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors, a bit tight and firmly structured with tones of truffle and spice with hints of cedar, tobacco and green pepper, turning to moderate tannins on the long finish."

As this has aged another five years, it has lost some of its finesse and polish. RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

  https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/12/godspeed-mt-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1106764

 



Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

With the remote family in from both coasts for a wedding and a funeral this week, we're having some fun pulling from the cellar different labels from producers that we have visited together during various trips to Napa Valley. This Napa Cab is from legendary producer Randy Dunn whom we visited together with Sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn. 

Randy started his wine career working for Charlie Wagner as the first enologist for Caymus. He was  instrumental in establishing Howell Mountain as a sub-AVA of Napa Valley. He is hands on from the vineyards to the cellars.

While not one of the larger holdings in our cellar in terms of number of bottles, it may be one of our broadest holdings in terms of number of vintages in our vertical collection of this label, and the flagship premium label Dunn Howell Mtn Cab.  We also collect Randy Dunn's "Feather" label that he produces for the Long Shadows Vintners Collection Series in Washington State.

Our Cellartracker records indicate we have a vertical collection of several mixed cases of each label from almost two dozen vintages dating back to 1981. 

Selections from Vertical Collection of Dunn Napa Valley Cabernets

This label release got 90 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. It has a Cellartracker average rating of 92.1 from 81 user reviews. I acquired this ten years ago when it was already ten years of age.  

With Randy Dunn at Dunn estate high atop Howell Mountain.

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Dunn is known for age-worthy Napa Cabernets, especially the premium Howell Mtn label. At 21 years, this label is still holding its own although past both its prime and projected drinking windows. While at this stage, many wines lose their fruit flavors to non-fruit tones, the fruits in this bottle are still holding their own, while also showing pronounced complementary and tertiary flavor tones.

We hold another bottle of this release and we'll note it needs to be consumed in the next year or so before it begins to diminish beyond enjoyable drinking. 

This was garnet colored, medium-full bodied, muscular, full forward rustic blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, graphite, leather and expresso, moderate acidity with firm lingering tannins on the long finish. 

I had trouble characterizing an underlying lingering flavor in the profile - Wine Spectator mentions mineral, iodine and dill - Tanzer speaks of raw meat ... 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7962

http://www.dunnvineyards.com/

@dunn_vineyards 

 The following evening we did a gala beefsteak dinner and opened another Dunn Cabernet, Howell Mountain 1987.

Sunday, August 30, 2020

Special wines for Family gathering ...

Special wines for Family gathering ... 

On the eve of the wake memorial service for step-father Keith, family arrive from both coasts for a week of family events, a funeral and a wedding. Sister Jan and her family arrived from SoCal, son Alec and Vivianna from NYC. 

We gathered at our house and had a somewhat poignant gala reunion with dinner of grilled steak fajitas, fresh fruit, artisan cheeses, and wines. 

McNees Conrad Clan

I invited Bro-in-law Bill to select wines from the cellar and he asked for some single varietal wines and the flight was on. I pulled a selection of family oriented wines from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla. We visited the tasting room and picturesque vineyards in during our Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018. Out at the vineyards site we met grower producer Dean Derby. 

As I have featured numerous times in these pages, the Spring Valley portfolio is branded with labels each named for an ancestor going back three generations. Several of the labels are single varietal specific wines, perfect for the occasion and Bills request.

We started with a Napa Valley Petite Sirah, followed by Spring Valley Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, then a Merlot based Bordeaux Blend before moving on to more adventurous labels. 

I wrote earlier this week about the commemoration to Keith Lorentzen and Robert Craig and our wine selections based on visits together to the various wineries during our Napa trips over the years. 

We pulled a Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2006 vintage, that we tasted with Jan and Bill during our private tour and tasting at the estate winery high atop Howell Mountain back in 2008. Following that, we opened another Howell Mountain Cabernet from Ladera which we also visited together during that trip

In recognition of our trip to France a year ago with Alec and Vivianna, we opened a Rhone varietal Grenache, but from the notable Australian producer Clarendon Hills.  


 The flight:

Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc 2011

Sharilee (Corkrum) Petite Verdot 2012

Uriah Red Blend 2010

Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 

Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache 2007 

Long Meadows Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2017 

Stay tuned as the festivities of the week play out we unwindwine many more wines.

 


Wednesday, August 26, 2020

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Our favorite signature summer dinner, we grilled rib-eye steaks 'Pittsburgh' style, served with sweet corn, baked potatoes, and wedge salad with blue cheese, bacon and tomatoes. Our mourning and tribute to stepdad Keith continues and coupled with the remembrance of Robert Craig, I pulled from the cellar this Robert Craig Spring Mountain District Cabernet from 2005

 

The 2005 was the inaugural first release for the Robert Craig Spring Mountain label. It was sourced from the picturesque Joan Crowley vineyard perched at 2000 foot elevation along the summit of Spring Mountain, high above the town of St Helena in the Mayacamas Range that forms the western slope of Napa Valley. The incredible site is primarily dry-farmed, reducing vigor and crop yield resulting in small, flavor-packed berries. 

As I have written often in these pages, Robert Craig focused on, specialized in hillside and mountain fruit from leading producing regions of Napa including Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain. Add Mt George and Atlas Peak above the town of Napa and you have the four corners of the Napa Valley. He often referred to it as four mountains and a valley in describing his portfolio of Cabernets.

While Robert Craig Winery owned the majority of their vineyard sources, they buy fruit from select vineyards on the various mountains. They worked with Napa Valley based hillside vineyards generally 1,600 feet or higher. 

Robert started his career up on Mt Veeder, initially developing the William Hill vineyard, and then later, at The Hess Collection as their General Manager. In addition, he helped develop 300 vineyard acres on Mt. Veeder for the movie star comedian Robin Williams estate. Robert Craig sourced Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from there for over two decades for the Mt Veeder designated Cabernet label until Robin's passing and the recent sale of the estate and the Pym Rae vineyard to the French Tesseron wine empire Family. Their recent first release label from that property was priced at $350. Robert often said that Mt Veeder was his favorite of his Cabernets. He was instrumental in forming sub appellations for both Mt. Veeder area and Spring Mountain.

Robert passed away a year ago in September 2019 from complications from Parkinson’s disease. 

The Robert Craig Winery is perched at an elevation of almost 2300 feet high up on Howell Mountain on the north east side of Napa Valley. It is among some of Napa’s highest vineyards. At this elevation they actually see some snow in the winter at times. The location sits above the town of Angwin and their permit at the actual winery limits them to an extremely small number of visitors, as well as only several events per year at the actual winery, hence, they maintain a tasting room in the city of Napa. 

We attended a private tasting there at the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Estate in 2008 and then we attended the Harvest Party at the estate in 2009.

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

My recollection is that I first tasted this Spring Mountain label upon its release during that visit in 2008. It was a comparison tasting against the Mt Veeder and Howell Mountain labels, the Spring Mountain was served from the barrel, and it was my standout favorite, being slightly sweeter than the other two. I remember the allocation for Club members was limited to three bottles. I negotiated a mixed case purchase of twelve bottles of the 05, 06 and 07 vintages, most of which I still hold to this day.  

This brings me to today. Sister Jan and bro-in-law Bill were with us for that private tasting picnic lunch at the estate (above). They will be in town this coming week from SoCal for the family funeral and wedding. And, fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Bill C and Beth were with us at the 2009 Harvest Party when we tasted these wines (below). He and Beth will also be in town next week for son Sean's wedding, so, with this backdrop, I pulled the Spring Mountain label to taste as part of this tribute and in preparation for serving for extended family and friends dinners next week. I also went and purchased the current 2016 release to fill out the collection and replace the bottle we drank.

 

Robert Craig writes of this label; "The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated winegrapes. Joan Crowley’s low-yield, biodynamically farmed vineyard has provided us with deep, aromatic and structured wines since our first vintage with it in 2005. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. The heady, deep perfume that is a Spring Mountain District signature is always present in this cabernet that is hard to come by." 

In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon varietal grapes, Robert Craig also sourced from the Crowley vineyard Bordeaux varietal Petite Verdot.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Crowley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Fellow Cellartracker RicksPicks (not me, no relation) reviewed this wine on two occasions in 2010 and then in 2011: "Very dark fruit aromas and flavors - blackberry and blueberry with some earthiness dominate. Very rich and viscous mouthfeel. Tastes like ripe mountain fruit -- if there is such a thing. Rather round and full bodied. Lacked structure, but I liked it for its depth and richness."

RicksPicks gave this 90 points each time. 

"Similar to a prior bottle - ripe and rich, dark fruits, soft, lush mouthfeel. Very plush for mountain fruit. Nice, medium, fruity finish. Not a lot of structure, but still very tasty."

 WCC's review of the 2007 - Medium garnet in color. Surprisingly, this evidenced a much brighter profile than I expected. Typically, my experience with Spring Mountain has yielded a rather brooding, mellow profile with time. This was bright and full of raspberry and cherry. Medium bodied with a medium finish highlighted by some pepper notes. A bit unconventional and unexpected but tasty none the less.

Tonight this was bright garnet colored, medium bodied, with bright sprites of ripe black berry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of tobacco leaf, tangy spice, with hints of bitter dark chocolate and smoke with moderate tannins on the lingering  finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=471314

https://robertcraigwine.com/crowley-vineyard-spring-mountain/

 

Monday, August 24, 2020

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

For casual Sunday night dinner, Linda prepared Mahi Mahi in cornmeal crust with butter and lemon with asparagus and Miso rice. I pulled from the cooler this everyday casual sipper Columbia Valley Chardonnay from Chateau Ste. Michelle. At a sub fifteen dollar price point, this is definitely one of those wines to keep on hand for casual every day sipping. Its an amazing value at this price with great QPR - Quality Price Ratio, and is a high overachiever. Amazing they can produce this quality in such quantity so as to be generally available to the masses. 

We visited the fabulous Chateau St Michelle estate during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour two years ago. They've done an amazing job promoting and establishing Washington State as a top wine producing region and have built an impressive extensive portfolio of wines. 

Chateau St Michelle has also become a cultural icon in the greater Seattle area with their extensive grounds that also serve as a concert venue for major events and groups. We attended a major concert there headlined by the iconic Steve Miller Band and Peter Frampton.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2017

This is sourced from Chardonnay grapes from vineyards throughout the Central Washington State Columbia Valley. 

This label was #34 on Wine Enthusiasts Top 100 Best Buy List for 2019. It was awarded 89 points by both Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits.

Straw colored, light medium bodied, bright tangy notes of golden green apple with lively buttery spice sprites of lemon zest and subtle oak.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3210103

https://www.ste-michelle.com/2017-chardonnay/5637159689.p

 

 

 

Sunday, August 23, 2020

Keith Lorentzen Tribute - Robert Craig Affinity 2011

Keith Lorentzen Tribute -  Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2011

With much of the family in town gathered in the final hours and passing of dearly beloved father/step-dad Keith, his four daughters, Becky, Heidi, Wendy and Mitzi, joined us at our house from the hospital for processing, reflection, planning and light dinner. I pulled from the cellar a Robert Craig Affinity in reflection of Keith and on the recent passing of Robert (Craig), in tribute to and remembrance of Keith and recently departed Robert. We toasted Keith and Robert, two delightful, generous, highly educated but humble gentlemen.

Dr Keith Lorentzen 1921-2020
The Robert Craig portfolio is one of the largest holdings in our collection with labels across the brand dating back to the inaugural release in 1993.  Many of our Napa Valley trips were highlighted by visits to the Robert Craig estate high atop Howell Mountain, the Napa tasting room, or even the original winery crush facility up on Mt George Atlas Peak in the early days back in 1998.

Cellartracker records show we hold no less than nineteen vintages of this label, in addition to the numerous other Robert Craig sub-appellation select designated Cabernets.

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Affinity is a classic Bordeaux Blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. As I have often written in these pages, Robert took pride in holding the pricepoint of this 'entry level' Cab to premium his portfolio providing good QPR (quality price ratio) as the brand evangelist/ambassador. 

The classic Bordeaux Blend was crafted from Cabernet Sauvignon grown at the Robert Craig estate in the foothills of Mount Geroge in Napa's Vaca Range south of Stag's Leap. The Cabernet is composed of small additions of Petit Verdot for color, Malbec to add weight, Cabernet Franc for structure and Merlot for silky mouthfeel to craft this wine. It was aged for 18 months in new and second-fill French oak, the resulting wine is powerful and ripe.

A quality sipper belaying an 'off' vintage, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright vibrant ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits, hints of cassis offset the slight herbal and vegetable notes found in so many of the Napa 2011's, only slightly detracting from the Bordeaux Blend.  

RM 89 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1798118

https://robertcraigwine.com/

Visits to Robert Craig Estate -

Harvest Party 2009 - 
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

Howell Mountain Estate Visit - 2008
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

Saturday, August 22, 2020

Reuling Sonoma Chardonnay Seafood Dinner

 Reuling Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2012 with Seabass and Walleye Seafood Dinner

For the second time this week, for our Friday evening 'date night', we dined at Carnivore & The Queen Supper Club to take in their Friday Walleye Fish and Chips Special. We also tried the Seabass seared in white wine butter with shallots and preserved lemons. To accompany our seafood entrees we took BYOB from our cellar this Reuling Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

The 'Alterior Motive' locally brewed Beer battered Walleye was superb, even better than the Seabass entree at 1.5 times the price. At $25, it is pricey for 'fish and chips', but worth it. It was complemented by equally superb batter fried onion rings.  

This was the inaugural release of estate bottled Chardonnay from the famous vineyard owned by Tim and Jackie Reuling. It is one of the most lauded vineyards in the region having sourced fruit for notable Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. 

Timothy and Jackie purchased the 16-acre Reuling property in 1998 and planted 14.4 acres in 2000 to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For over a decade, the vineyard was a source for top flight producers including Aubert Wines and Peter Michael Winery. Wines sourced from the property have been awarded as high as 99 points by Robert Parker. 

Joined by winemaker Matt Taylor, they began producing their own label wines. Previously Taylor was winemaker and vineyard manager for Araujo Estates and has worked with Joseph Swan Vineyards and Domaine Dujac. He considers the Reuling Vineyard to be one of the great vineyard sites in California.

The Reuling Vineyard initially gained notoriety by its association wtih Mark Aubert. Aubert grew up in Napa wine country where his parents owned a vineyard. After getting a degree from University of California at Fresno in 1985 he worked at Monticello. His winemaking career was propelled by his association with legendary winemaker Helen Turley. He served a 12-year stint at Peter Michael where he followed Helen Turley and was appointed head winemaker there at 28 years old. Aubert succeeded Turley again several years later at Colgin Cellars. 

 Since then, Aubert has been a winemaking consultant for several prestigious wineries including Sloan, Bryant and Futo. He launched his own brand in 1999 and his vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays quickly received critical acclaim. Aubert released his own wines with the 2000 vintage crafted from estate and leased vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. 

 

Reuling Sonoma Coast Vineyard Chardonnay 2012

At eight years of age, this Chardonnay was at its apex and probably at the end of its peak drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather to start to diminish with further aging so its time to drink up. 

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points and a "Cellar Selection" saying "this is one to cellar 2019-2024".

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave it 91 points, Connoisseurs Guide 90 points.

This was straw colored, medium bodied, with an interesting aroma and flavor tone of what I was having trouble characterizing, describing it as corn with hints of smoke. 

Later I read the Cellartracker post by Slywka from Conneticut who is a Certified Sommelier. Lo and behold, he wrote, "Aromas of nut, buttered popcorn, papaya and hint of flowers. Flavors of buttered popcorn, mango, vanilla, mineral and touch of banana. Ends with a buttered popcorn infused finish of 25+ seconds." He pegged what I was struggling to describe, that flavor of 'buttered popcorn". The rest of his tasting note sums it up aptly and well. 

Slywka gave it 93 points. I gave it 90, detracted by the non-fruit corn notes and hints of smoke. RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788461

https://carnivoreandthequeen.com/  

@QueenCarnivore

Wednesday, August 19, 2020

Kracher TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague

 Alois Kracher Chardonnay TrockenBeeren Auslese (TBA) #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001

We opened this for an evening of causal sipping with artisan cheeses and biscuits. May of the strong cheeses are best paired with the sweet wines such as this. 

 We hold more than a dozen labels of Kracher wines from this era. Its fun to watch quality dessert wines mature and change color over time, from straw color, to butter, then weak tea, and progressing darker and darker over time. Note this color of tea at seventeen years of age.

As I have written in the past, at their most desirable (to my taste preference) these wines are rich, thick, unctuous, and voluptuous with apricot marmalade, mango, toffee/brown sugar, and caramel notes. This may have been there at some point and perhaps passed that stage of its aging profile. If so, then it is time to drink although it will no doubt continue to age gracefully for several more years. But the rich, sweet apricot fruits nectar was gone and has turned more to a smokey charcoal layer over the fruits which were more subdued. Delightful never-the-less.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19086