Saturday, May 16, 2020

Stonestreet Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Stonestreet Sonoma County Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015 with French Morbier

I opened this simple, pleasurable light drinking wine before dinner for sipping out on the deck over the course of a delightful spring evening.  

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the purest most natural easy sipping wines which we try to keep on hand for such occasions.

I later opened it to try with some artisan cheeses Linda brought home from the cheese department at the local Mariannos. It proved to be a nice pairing with a French Morbier

Morbier-style cheese comes from the highest part of the Jura Mountains in a small farm village in the Franche-Comté region. It dates back to the 19th century when producers of Comté cheese decided to make a smaller cheese from the day's leftover curd for their own consumption.


Morbier has an ivory colour and is soft and fairly elastic. It is immediately identifiable because of its black layer of tasteless ash, which separates horizontally in the middle. The Soot is thrown on top in order to prevent a rind from occurring.  

This fruity, creamy Livradois is produced from cow's milk, French Morbier cheese matures for 6 weeks before it is ready for sale.

Stonestreet Sonoma County Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015
 
The Winemaker writes about this label, "This Estate Sauvignon Blanc is a blend of several blocks planted at 900 ft. elevation. It displays everything one would expect from Sauvignon Blanc grown at altitude in rock-driven soils: exotic fruit character grounded by serious textural and structural components." 

The rear label states this was sourced from the Couger Ridge blocks in the Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. It says this was grown, produced and bottled by Stonestreet in Healdsburg. Labeled as Estate means the grapes were sourced from the producer's own vineyards.

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "Stonestreet consistently delivers complex, refreshing renditions of Sauvignon Blanc. Grassy on the nose, with an exotic tease of pea shoot, it seemingly vibrates on the palate with lemon, grapefruit and apricot flavors."

Straw colored, light medium bodied, this was bright notes of pineapple, peach with accents of grapefruit and green apple, hints of passion fruit and pear on the tangy finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2547428

Thursday, May 14, 2020

Chateau St. Jean 45th Edition Cabernet

Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 45th Anniversary Special Edition

Being somewhat of a sentimentalist, I couldn't resist opting for this 45th Anniversary Special Edition Reserve Chateau St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon, being our 45th anniversary year as well. Another anniversary year wine, the rebrand of Caymus Estate Napa Cab also happens to coincide with our anniversary year.

We've written often in these pages about Chateau St. Jean being one of the crown jewels of Sonoma. It is one of our regular chateau estate tastings in our visits to the Sonoma region.

This special 45th Anniversary Special Edition release celebrates their "legacy of producing terroir driven wines from across the renowned region. Sourced from Alexander Valley, this Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegant yet structured representation of Sonoma County’s premier Cabernet growing region."

I ordered a case of this label upon release but due to the Coronavirus shut-in, just now was able to taste it, since I have been home-bound and this was delivered to my office downtown Chicago six weeks ago.

Tonight, we opened this in a mini anniversary celebration, rejoicing our survival in coping being shut-in together during these surreal and crazy circumstances in this, our 45th year.

This release got 94 points from James Suckling and Antonio Galloni's Vinous, and 91 points from Natalie.

James Suckling said this 'needs two or three years to soften. Try after 2022. Best from 2020 through 2030.' I agree, it was a bit tight, closed and flabby on initial opening, and will hopefully come together with a few more years aging. Antonio Galloni wrote, the "floral and savory aromas open up over time", and we found it needed time to open and in fact, was better the next day, after sitting open for the evening. 

The fruit was sourced from several vineyard sites throughout the Alexander Valley where Cabernet Sauvignon grows best including some of St. Jean’s traditional sources: Asti Vineyard, Stuhlmuller Vineyard as well as Belle Terre vineyard.  

Chateau St Jean winemaker Margo Van Staaveren writes: "The 2015 growing season was one of outstanding quality marked with ideal weather for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. The continuation of California’s drought brought a dry winter followed by a dry and early spring with an early bud break. Weather was warm and consistent throughout late spring and summer which allowed for full development in the grapes. We began picking the grapes in September, and while overall yields were low, the quality and depth of flavor of the fruit was excellent." 

The wine was barreled aged in 60% French and 40% American Oak barrels for 20 months of oak aging. This wine was bottled in August of 2017 and received another 6 months of bottle age prior to its release on January 1, 2018, to celebrate the 45th anniversary of the famed winery.  

Natalie writes,"Dramatic differences in day and night time temperatures gives this Cabernet Sauvignon is ripe, juicy fruit flavours of cassis, smoke, anise and dried sweet tobacco. Decant for one hour prior to pouring."

The Winemaker's Tasting Notes; "Deep ruby in color, this Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a huge amount of blueberry, plum, and violets on the nose, with oak spices shining through. On the palate, blue fruit flavors combine with cassis and plum to create a very deep berry and fruit profile. The wine finishes with strong oak spice supported by the tannic structure. Very drinkable with a strong acidity complementing the tannins and fruit flavors. Drink now, or cellar for up to 15 years."

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with notes of dark mocha chocolate, cassis, smoke, anise, black tea and tobacco.

Natalie suggested pairing this Cabernet Sauvignon with "grilled portobello mushroom, lamb Bolognese, or grilled New York strip loin." We did, ordering in curb-side carry out from Angelis Italian, our neighborhood trattoria, I had the grilled portabella mushrooms along with Bolognese sauce.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2947884

Chateau St. Jean Website - http://www.chateaustjean.com/ 

Wednesday, May 13, 2020

Fortress Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Fortress Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

For mid-week sipping, I pulled from the cellar this Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon from Fortress, which, I admit, I don't recall purchasing or even ever having seen this label before.

Upon further research, I learn this is one of the many numerous brands and labels from the Jackson Family Wines, crafted by Fortress head winemaker Susan Lueker who specializes in Bordeaux varietals for the Kendall-Jackson brand.

Originally from Arkansas, Susan Lueker grew up on a family farm but set out to be a scientist, studying Chemistry and Medical Child Development at the University of Missouri, then, working at the renowned Johns Hopkins University pursuing a graduate degree.

Seeking more balance in her career, returning to her farming roots, more in line with her interests in nature, Susan transferred to the University of California, Davis, where she took her first Enology class and fell in love with the vineyards and the winemaking process.

After graduating with a degree in Viticulture and Enology, she took a job in winemaking at Sonoma Valley’s small-production Hacienda Winery where she gained valuable hands-on experience. We visited Hacienda during one of early visits to Sonoma back in the nineties.

Susan continued to hone her skills at Dry Creek Vineyards before joining Simi winery, where she spearheaded all winemaking efforts for almost two decades. In 2019, Susan moved to Jackson Family Wines as the head winemaker for Fortress, capitalizing on her 25 years of expertise and experience in Sonoma County winemaking. She is looking to craft wines that are complex, balanced, and food-friendly.

Susan lives in Healdsburg with her Chef husband, their two dogs, and two cats. She enjoys foods that pair well with wines, watching sports and exercise.

Fortress Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This release is sourced from the Alexander Valley AVA, Pine Mountain-Cloverdale AVA and the Mendocino Ridge AVA. 

It is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec and 9% Merlot.

The rear label says it was aged in "100% Small Barrels, 50% French Oak."

It is available in distribution at under $20 for an everyday casual drinking wine.

It is written that "Fortress Cabernet Sauvignon delivers aromas of dark fruit, mocha and baking spices on the nose. The palate exhibits well integrated tannins that complement the subtle earthy flavors of pomegranate, blackberry and sweet pipe tobacco. With a rich, opulent mouth feel, Fortress is an approachable wine with a silky, lush finish."

The Tasting Panel-Sonoma County, California - "Ripe berry aromas; lush and smooth texture with dense flavors of chocolate as well as ripe plum and boysenberry. Rich, chewy, and long with spice and depth."

Upon opening, I found this uninspiring and a bit obtuse. I put it away for the night and tried it again the next day it was much better.  Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, black berry fruit punctuated by a layer of dark mocha chocolate, with notes of black tea, spice and tobacco.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2868907

http://www.fortresswinery.com/


Monday, May 11, 2020

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

I've written often in these pages the Ninety-Plus Cellars story with their negociant wines or surplus wines acquired and private labeled, often at high QPR below market prices. They offer a broad selection of labels from the wine regions around the world, often at great value. Occasionally, they offer extraordinary wines at affordable prices for everyday drinking.

When I acquired this label, I hoped this might be such a selection but tonight it was uninspiring and leaving much to be desired while shut-in due to the Coronavirus isolation. Holding some to retry the next day, it was more approachable and enjoyable the following day.

The Ninety-Plus approach started in 2009 when founder Kevin Mehra set out to bring higher quality wine to the market for a better price. He reached out to producers with a history of high ratings asking if they had wine for sale. While some told him to get lost, he found several that had excess inventory, or had some that did not meet their standards for their premium flagship label. Rather than diminish their brand, they agreed to put their wine behind the Ninety-Plus 'private' label, and sell it for less.

Those with excess inventory were willing to part with a certain percentage of their production for a reduced price, rather than discount their wine and erode the value of their brand. It was a win/win scenario. Wineries got to sell more wine, and consumers got access to better wine at lower prices.

Head wine buyer, Brett Vankoski continues to seek out the best opportunities in the market and turn those into great values. Each wine source is anonymized and identified or referred to as a "Lot" number, so as to provide continuity for a particular source from vintage to vintage.

Since availability of a Ninety-Plus label or Lot # is often due to excess supply or other reasons, one cannot expect, or depend on a particular Lot being available year after year. Such is the case of one particular favorite that we found and enjoyed. Despite buying up all we could find in the marketplace, we have not seen a return of the Lot 101 Syrah from Columbia Valley. At the time, the label specified simply '250 cases'. Interestingly it didn't say produced. How many cases were sold under some other, perhaps well known, perhaps higher priced label? We'll likely never know.

labelWine collectors understand the axiom of pricing wine for the occasion ... every day wines, once a week wines, once a month wines and once in a lifetime or special occasion wines. Only the privileged few need not worry about budgets or costs of their beverage choice du jour.

We've been enjoying a lot of great wines during our sequestration and sought a more moderate priced selection for this weeknight.

Lot 94 is part of the Ninety-Plus Cellars' popular Collector's Series wine brand. It is a full-bodied Napa Cab from highly-regarded vineyard sites in the distinguished Rutherford AVA, a good value when compared to the Napa Cabs produced from such sites.   

When I last tasted this last fall I rated this 90 Points and wrote, "The 2017 is a top flight Cabernet, sophisticated, complex and enjoyable for early gratification, drinking now, and may likely improve further with 2 to 5 years of aging or more as it is not equal to the 2015 which was a bit better integrated and polished."

Ninety-Plus writes of this label, "the fruit is picked from vines situated on the east side of the valley in a vineyard that was first planted in the 1890s. Upon alluvial and volcanic soils these densely planted vines produce Cabernet Sauvignon that makes some of the best wine in Napa. This is an all-star Cabernet with an elite pedigree."

While I echo the negociant's (Ninety Plus Cellars) tasting notes on this release: "Deep crimson in color with lavish aromas of black currant, mocha, and savory herbs with trailing notes of tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied and well-rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of bright cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth finish," this lacked balance and polish I hoped for pleasant high QPR everyday sipping. The fruits were a bit obtuse and forward with a somewhat flabby less approachable profile.

RM 88 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/90-lot-94-2017.html

https://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Saturday, May 9, 2020

Nina Lee Spring Valley Syrah 2015

Nina Lee Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Syrah 2015

We just received our supplemental wine club allocation from Spring Valley Vineyards. 'Supplemental' meaning that we added an additional two cases to our normal shipment - a mix of five Spring Valley labels, Uriah Red Blend, Frederick Red Blend, Sharilee Petit Verdot, Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc and Nina Lee Syrah. As I've chronicled in these pages, each label is named for an ancestral family member dating back to patriarch founder Uriah Corkrum. Nina Lee was his son Frederick's wife, a vaudeville actress that he met while she visited Walla Walla and performed at the local theatre on a North American tour back in the 1920's.


Our visit to the ranch and picturesque vineyards, and meeting owner Dean Derby were highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience in the fall of 2018. We first tasted this release of this label in the tasting room in town during that visit.



Normally, we would stage these in the cellar to settle and age a few years before tasting, opting to drink older or oldest vintages first as part of cellar management. Tonight, we opted to try this current release vintage, still in the shipper, not yet deposited to the cellar.


We prepared a medley of cheeses and fresh fruits to accompany some roast beef and caprese salad for pairing with one of our favorite varietals from a favorite producer and one of my favorite wine friendly cheeses, Old Amsterdam Aged Gouda.

Nina Lee Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Syrah 2015
 
The 2015 release of Nina Lee is a blend of 99% Syrah and 1% Viognier, aged 19 months in 100% French oak, 30% new.

This was rated 93 Points by JamesSuckling.com and Jeb Dunnuck. It was awarded 92 points by International Wine Report.

Upon opening the black fruit aromas permeated the room, the dark inky purple color is most apparent, medium-full bodied, rich concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits are accented by smoke, black tea, notes of olive tapenade,  pepper, spice, and hint of dark mocha with a long earthy finish. Needs some time to settle and integrate a bit further, give it a couple of years cellar aging to reach its prime.

RM 91 points pop and pour. 92 points the next day ... and chilled.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2808195

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

Friday, May 8, 2020

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2004


Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

As the Coronavirus shut-in continues, we ordered in, curbside carryout from our local neighborhood trattoria, Angelis Italian

I ordered veal marsala and for pairing with it's brown sauce, I pulled from the cellar an old stand-by from one of our favorite producers, Robert Craig Napa Valley Affinity 2004.

As I have written numerous times in these pages, we've been collecting this wine since its' inaugural vintage in 1993 and we still hold several cases spread across almost two dozen vintages. 


Crafted to provide a sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon at a reasonable price with early gratification, Affinity defies this approach with its age worthiness, as this tasting testifies. 

This label was also understated in another way, it is actually a Bordeaux Blend and contains the other Bordeaux varietals. The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Craig vineyards and contract sources throughout Napa Valley. Robert used to refer to it as "three mountains and a Valley", referring to their vineyards and sources on Howell Mountain, Mt Veeder, Atlas Peak, Mt George, and the valley floor. According to the rear label, this 2004 Affinity release was 'sourced from the Tulocay estate in southern Napa Valley, blended with Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from exceptional vineyards in Napa Valley'. As was often the case, the specifics of blend was not specified. 

R & L with Robert Craig
at Harvest Party
We may hold more Robert Craig wine in our cellar than any other producer. We've been fans of Robert Craig since the early nineties. We've been to many events at the winery as well as several private functions with Robert, his wife Lynn, and former hospitality and wine club ambassador, Rachel, and various members of the Craig team.   

I remember Robert Craig exclaiming his love for this label and how proud he was to hold it to an affordable pricepoint to introduce consumers to Robert Craig wines. I've written recently that in recent years, as Robert and Lynn turned over the reigns to new management, and the recent passing of Robert, this label has crept up in price significantly and is now priced where their premium labels used to be. Never-the-less, it provides good value and quality drinking both early and yet also stands up to aging.

Six years ago I wrote, "This ten year old 2004 remains consistent with earlier tasting notes, deep dark purple inky color, the ripe berry fruit aromatics, full body, ripe berry fruit, accented by a undercurrent of caramel are starting to give way to a layer of anise, tobacco, leather and firm full tannins on the long fruit filled finish."  

Tonight, at sixteen years of age, this release may be at the apex of its drinking window and is as good as ever.  In an earlier tasting when I wrote, "Tasted from a 375 ml split. In this smaller format, it may be starting to show its age," I attribute that to perhaps a combination of bottle variation and the smaller format which ages less gracefully.

RM 90 points, increased a point from past tastings.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=323482

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=Robert+Craig+Affinity

Wednesday, May 6, 2020

Flinders Run Shiraz 2005

Favorite Aussie Shiraz - Flinders Run Shiraz 2005 Aging Gracefully

I raved about this wine when I discovered it several years ago and have featured it numerous times since in this blog. When I discovered this wine downstate in a local wineshop, I picked some up and tried it, then found and purchased more on-line. Then I convinced local mega-merchant Binny's to obtain some and we cleaned them out too.

This remains one of our go-to favorites for tasty, hearty sipping as we ration and savor the remaining bottles of our stash with slightly less than a case left. With BBQ ribs dinner, we opened this old favorite, Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2005.

I featured this wine, the producer and estate in an earlier blogpost. I wrote about discovering this wine when it came on the scene with these two vintage releases and disappeared, not to be seen again. Producer Emanuel Skorpos saw my post and posted a reply in that blogpost. He wrote. "....we are still here in the Southern Flinders Ranges, still making great wines. Unfortunately our USA importer wasn't as honorable as he made himself out to be, none the less we are still focused on developing big opulant parcels of wines with a focus on producing wines that are both representative of the varietal but importantly very much value packed. Stay tuned we will be back in the USA with bigger and better wines, a replanting has seen us source far more superior clonal varieties of both Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, our research and initial trials has blown us away so much that we have planted 12 acres of new Cabernet and 20 acres of sgiraz this year that will be focused on delivering wines of distinction, again single estate grown wines big bold and fruit driven. Looking forward to getting back to the USA, In due course you will see a newly revamped website which will inform you of our new plantings and one which i am sure will draw a heap of attention once we publicly announce it. Stay tuned for the NEXT GENERATION of FLINDERS RUN Wines."

As of this posting, there is no update or notice of a re-emergence so we'll continue to ration our supply and be patient and vigilant for their return to distribution in Chicagoland, or in the on-line wine community.

Back on release of this label, according to the the Flinders Run website (http://www.flindersrun.com.au/), "We knew from the first trials of the 2001 and subsequent 2003 vintages that the Flinders Run wines were going to be something special, but nothing prepared us for the overwhelming success, we would experience with the release of the 2005 Vintage. Subsequent vintages have been crafted in the same careful manner exhibiting a consistency in flavour and style and most importantly capturing the elegance of region climate and above all varietal character."

The 2005 vintage got a raving 95 point review from legendary wine critic Robert Parker. He wrote,"Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. For a wine of this size, it is remarkably light on its feet. Give it 2-3 years to more fully evolve and drink it through 2020. This is quite a debut for Flinders Run!"

When I first discovered this label in a downstate wine shop, I don't recall having seen or knowing about their rating or rave reviews. When I saw Robert Parker's review and 95 point rating, I knew he shared our love of big bold Aussie Shiraz's, even if we did think his enthusiasm was at times 'over the top' and even exceeded ours.

Its hard to believe its been six years since I posted that earlier blogpost when I wrote, "Happily, we still hold and continue to enjoy this big bold fruit filled Shiraz. Holding more than several bottles into their ninth year, one rightfully wonders how is it aging and how long will it last?"

Parker's projected drinking window extending through 2020. Here we are in the new year which and his review still holds in this label's fifteenth year, "Purple/black in color, the wine exhibits a big, brooding bouquet of pain grille, pepper, Asian spices, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied (15.2% alcohol), super-rich, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruit flavors, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. For a wine of this size, it is remarkably light on its feet."

This retains all the nuances and character it exhibited in its youth - nicely balanced, polished, and flavorful. Big, bold, dense, complex layers of blue and black berry fruits, accented by licorice, hints of black pepper, and tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/10/favorite-aussie-shiraz-flinders-2005.html

Sunday, May 3, 2020

Champagne Duo for Bridesmaid's Luncheon

Champagne Duo for Bridesmaid's Luncheon - Lanson and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé.

Linda hosted a luncheon for son Sean and fiance', daughter-in-law to be, Michelle, and her bridesmaid's, so they could gather and pick out their dresses for the wedding. I served a pair of Champagnes for the occasion, Lanson and Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé.


Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Rosé


This got 91 points James Suckling, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points from John Gilman and earlier from Wine Spectator.

This is a a blend of 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier.

Rustic orange color, crisp, full-bodied, complex and zesty, lively red currant, red berry and citrus fruits with a good core, fine acidity, crisp texture, chalky minerality and hint of apple, smoke and spice with a long, vibrant finish.

RM 89 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27316







Lanson Brut Rosé Champagne NV

This rosé is made from 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Meunier, and 10% Chardonnay.

This was awarded 91 points Wine Spectator, 90 points James Suckling.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, bright acidity, notes of lemon and dried cherry fruits with notes of mineral and pain grille', dry and crisp on the tangy flavorful finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=327152