Davis Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel

Davis Family Vineyards Russian River Valley Old Vine Zinfandel 2002

Thin crust pizza with sausage, pepperoni and spicy sauce and a plate of hearty cheese calls for fruit forward bold expressive pizza wine. Davis Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel from the Russian River Valley answers the call - not complex or sophisticated but easy drinking, single dimensional and focused.

The fact this was a small format 375ml bottle may have contributed to its aging to the point of being in the last stage of its drinking window for this twelve year old. Lasting that long speaks well for this label, indicates a pretty robust and stable wine, and appropriate cellar conditions. Glad I pulled this from the cellar and caught it in time, appropriately for a weeknight wine and pizza experience.

Dark inky purple colored, medium bodied, at twelve years of age the fruit has turned to bramble black berry accented raisin tones with a layer of leather and tobacco.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=32211  

http://www.davisfamilyvineyards.com/

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine 1997

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine 1997

For a quiet mid-week solemn dinner at home with L, I pulled a time-to-drink wine that I remember we've had together on a memorable occasion - dining al fresco at Meritage French Bistro in Chicago a dozen years ago.

Consistent with last tasting in 2010 but with continuation of the effects of aging. Ruby colored, medium bodied, big floral tones predominate as the black cherry and red currant fruits are starting to give way to tones of cedar, leather and mushroom with hints of almond, vanilla, sweet spice and soft oak on a lingering smooth firm dusty tannin finish, as age is taking effect, reaching the last chapter of its aging profile.

Blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2253

http://www.quilcedacreek.com/

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly Il Pesce for Great Seafood sans Fanfare

Eataly Chicago Shown Above

On our getaway weekend in NYC, for lunch, we dined at Il Pesce at Eataly on 23rd St across from the spectacular picturesque historic Flatiron building, just a short walk from the Path.

Eataly, with locations beyond Italy and New York in Chicago, Dubai, Turkey and Japan, is a sensation - a conglomeration of all things Italian food and drink - wine, cheese, gellato, pasta, bread, meats, fish, and did I say pasta? ... all in one bustling location.

Each location features several restaurants, a wine bar, an expresso bar, gellato counter, cheese station, breads, fresh meat and fresh fish counters... like being in an Italian Village in a high energy bustling city setting. Its not intimate or conducive to conversation, but the food is good and the service rapid and past paced, friendly and responsive.

Flatiron Building, New York

One of the daily feature specials posted on the chalkboard was pan seared Flounder with roasted potatoes and cucumber salad. It was spectacular.  

From the menu we also had the Capesante con Indivia e Arance - Pan Seared Scallops with Orange Braised Endive, Thyme and Breadcrumbs. It was equally delectable.

To accompany lunch we order two wines (Italian, naturally) BTG (by the glass), Mirafiore Langhe Nebbiolo 2011, and Le Vigne di Zamò Friulano, 2013.



Mirafiore Langhe Nebbiolo 2011

According to Eataly, this wine has antique origins dating back to Emanuele Alberto, Count of Mirafiore, a legitimate son of King Vittorio Emanuele II and Rosa Vercellana. The Count of Mirafiore was the first to have the idea of transforming his farm into a winemaking house. The result was a line of extremely high quality wines that are inspired by the great tradition of Piedmontese wines, and which today still have the original historical label of  “Casa E. di Mirafiore”.

Dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, ripe plum and blackberry fruits were accented by tones of mocha, hint of licorice with spicy nutmeg and tobacco turning to soft smooth tannins on a long lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1930723

Le Vigne di Zamò Friulano 2013

Straw colored, light bodied, green apples, hints of citrus and pear on a crisp clean acidic finish.
RM 88 points.

https://eataly.com/resources/eataly/files/Pesce%2002-09-2015.pdf

Murrays Cheese - Ultimate Wine Cheese Experience

Cheese Murray Cheese - Ultimate Wine Cheese Experience

For the ultimate cheese and wine experience, Murray's Cheese Bar on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village offers an extensive cheese selection from Murray's Cheese shop a few doors down. Artisan cheeses are selected and served as learned and imaginative pairings with meats, beer, wine or even aperitifs- select your own or let their 'Cheesemonger' prepare a flight for you. Visiting son Alec for a NYC getaway weekend, he took us to Murray's, one of his favorite haunts for dinner.

Cheese and or meat selections are available ala carte, in pairs of three, four, five or eight different selections. All this in combination with an imaginative list of wines or craft beers, the cheese course can be the pre-dinner starter, the dinner main course, or the after dinner option. Tonight, thirty four cheeses and eight meats were available from which to choose on the daily menu.

Murray's Cheese, name for founder Murray Greenberg, has been a fixture on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village since 1940. In the early ‘90s, Rob Kaufelt bought Murray’s and transformed the downtown flagship store into a destination for food lovers. He sourced rare cheeses from around the world, built cheese caves to age and ripen them, and started cheese classes for foodies and professional alike in Murray's own classroom.  

Today,  Murray’s ships cheese across the nation to chefs and supermarkets through an extensive wholesale business. In 2012, Murray’s Cheese Bar opened nearby serving brunch, lunch, and dinner featuring the broad selection of cheeses from the cheese caves beneath Bleecker Street. 

On this evening, two flights of meat and cheese, paired with two wines, a white and a red, were our dinner, if you add in a bowl of the tomato bisque soup. We also had their Burrata Crispy artichoke & grilled bread plate.

For the wines, since we're in New York, I selected a New York State, Long Island wine, Cabernet Franc from Bedell Cellars. For the white, we had a Loire Valley Sancerre Chenin Blanc. In retrospect the white was too timid to stand up to some of the hearty cheeses and meats so next time, I'll select a heavier more robust expressive white wine - Vionier, Chardonnay, an Alsatian, or even a Riesling.

We selected two 4X4 flights (shown) - two plates of four meats and four cheeses, each accompanied by a garnish highlight such as a pistachio nut paste, a blueberry compote, natural honey paste, or cranberry glaze. Of the eight cheeses we selected, five were notable and worth repeating: my favorites were:

La Tur, from the notable Italian wine region of Piemonte, described by Murray's as "a dense, creamy blend of pasteurized cow, goat and sheep milk. Runny and oozing around the perimeter with a moist, cakey, palette-coating paste, its flavor is earthy and full, with a lingering lactic tang."

From the Vermont Cellars of Jasper Hill comes 'bacony and creamy Bayley Hazen Blue, (below right) named for a Revolutionary War road in Vermont’s Northeast Region, a raw milk, farmhouse blue. Produced by the Kehler brothers, this is a like an English Stilton with its 'dry yet dense paste, full of balanced chocolate, hazelnut, and licorice flavors".


From France comes Selles-sur-Cher (left, leftmost) goat cheese. While traditionally, fresh cheeses were dusted in wood ash to encourage the development of a molded rind with patches of blue and gray mold, Murray's imports unaged rounds so they can control the development of a perfect rind: thin and cohesive in their own aging cave. The result is "a tiny, oozing creamline atop a fluffy interior paste with the pleasant texture of damp clay. The rind delivers insistent mineral notes, while the center is all briny, goaty tang and new-mown grass."

Another French cheese, La Tremblaye Persille de Rambouillet, "an incredibly smooth, creamy goat’s milk blue from La Tremblaye dairy in the countryside surrounding Paris. Originally a grain farm, it now boasts a herd of 150 cows and 600 Alpine goats and is located on picturesque farmland, surrounded by ponds and fields, lying adjacent to Rambouillet forest. From its ashy exterior to its “parsley veined” interior, the cheese’s supple texture melts on the tongue and fully coats the mouth with nuanced, terroir-driven flavors like clean lactic notes, white pepper and sweet cream. Simple companions, such as walnuts and honey add complementary and contrasting textures".

Lastly, St Stephen from New York Hudson Valley creamery/producer, Four Fat Fowl, a cow cheese named for the "colonial rental fee charged by the last landlord of Rensselaerswyck (what’s now Rensselaer county”), which amounted to a day’s labor, including ten to twenty bushels of wheat. Their small, bloomy rounds are delicately buttery, with hints of sun-dried wheat and sweet cream beneath its pillowy rind, making St. Stephen a true expression of local terroir." This was served with local, NY honey and fresh berry compote. 


Bedell Cellars North Fork Long Island Cabernet Franc 2013

Bedell Cellars produce a range of hand-crafted wines that get the most out of the unique North Fork maritime terroir - sandy soil, warm summers moderated by sea breeze cooled nights. I visited Bedell Cellars back in 2001 and thought they were one of the highest quality producers in the area, especially of red wines.

Slight opaque ruby colored, medium bodied, smokey, slightly earthy black cherry fruits with a hint of leather and cigar box on a slightly astringent tangy finish.

RM 87 points.



https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1984796

http://www.bedellcellars.com/



http://www.murrayscheesebar.com/ 

http://www.murrayscheese.com/

Taken Napa Red Blend

Taken Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine Blend 2012

Visiting New York this week, I found this high QPR Big Napa Red in several wine merchants. Taken is a joint venture between  Josh Phelps and Carlo Trinchero, two well known family names in the world of wine, next generation producers from at least one winemaking family known for Swanson Vineyards and Trinchero Family Estates, which is one of the largest wine producers in the US. (Its not certain that Josh is related to that Phelps).

Josh and Carlo grew up together in the wine centered town of St. Helena, in the heart of Napa Valley.  With a tagline, "great wine made by great friends", the mission of Taken Wine is to produce wines they and their friends and other young people from the millenial generation would enjoy. This release of Taken certainly hits the mark, and appeals to wine geeks from the boomer generation too!

I picked up a bottle for dinner at Warehouse Wine & Liquor in Danbury, Ct. I then picked up another at Buy Rite in Jersey City who have both the 2011 and the 2012 vintages in stock at under $30. 

Taken Wine Company was launched in 2009 and their first release was Taken Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010.  They subsequently released two other branding labels, Complicated which has a Pinot Noir, a Chardonnay and a Red Blend, and Available.

As they write on their website, their branding reflects the steps they have "taken" on their journey, a whimsical, fun-spirited, wordplay venture that whether taken, complicated, or available, provide their handicraft of wines. Their wines are available as part of the portfolio of the large established Trinchero Family Estates.

The aim is that the Taken names, Taken, Complicated, and Available, all tie into social media and are relevant to their generation.

This 2012 Red Blend reflects the much heralded vintage in Napa Valley, which benefited from an ideal growing season - rainfall in the spring, optimal temperatures in the early summer with warm days followed by cool nights, through to an early October harvest. Yields were high and the fruit was high quality. It was a great year to be in the wine business, and to be a consumer, since high quality wines should be in abundance that should result in some great value high QPR - Quality to Price Ratio wines. Taken Red Blend emerges as such a find! It is a blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot of Napa Valley fruit, aged in French Oak Barrels.

Dark inky purple colored, medium to full bodied, intense concentrated forward ripe blackberry and blueberry fruits accented by layers of dark chocolate, anise and expresso with tones of graphite, earthy notes, and hints of vanilla and sweet spicy French oak. Only a bit of heat from the 14.5% alcohol and the graphite tone detract from the balance and polish of this wine.

RM 92 points.

http://takenwine.com/ 

Del Dotto Gio Tuscan Reserve - Spring Valley Uriah Highlight Angeli's Italian Dinner

Del Dotto Gio Tuscan Reserve - Spring Valley Uriah Highlight Angeli's Italian Dinner

For a Saturday evening dinner outing with Gary and Laurie M. at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, we took two mature vintage reds BYOB from the cellar - 1997 Del Dotto Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve and 2003 Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah red wine. As usual the carefully prepared with fresh ingredients and homemade pasta was great featuring seasonal favorites Pasta and Peas with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce, Clam Chowder and Angelis Special Salad. Angelis has raised their  corkage fee to $20 which we feel is too high and will detract from and reduce the frequency of the dining experience.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997

We don't collect Italian wines and they represent perhaps a mere 1% of our cellar. This Sangiovese based blend is the closest we come to an Italian accompaniment so it is a lead wine we take to Italian dinners. I have written often in this bog about Del Dotto pioneering efforts with Sangiovese in Napa Valley and this wine.

These is the second to last bottle from a case of this vintage. Initially, upon opening this was consistent with earlier tasting notes ... medium bodied - ruby color starting to take on a slightly brownish rust color at the rim; aromatics of black berry and woody cedar and a slight earthy funkiness showing its age, eventually giving way to slightly tart black cherry fruit with tones of leather, anise and spice turning to moderate silky tannins on a pleasant lingering finish of soft oak. We saved a third of the bottle and the next evening the tangy dark fruits were accented by cedar and floral tones with a smokey oak tannin on the finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=148343

 

Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Valley Uriah Red Wine 2003

This is the oldest of ten vintages we hold of this wine and is the last bottle from this year. This is a Merlot based Bordeaux blend. At fourteen years its likely at the apex of its tasting window/curve.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant flavors of black berry, cherry and currants with tones of tea and cigar box turning to mild tannins and  lively acidity on the long, silky, finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=148343

Big Red Wine Flight with Pizza on Boys' Night Out

Big Red Wine Flight with Pizza on Boys' Night Out

When wine buddy and colleague Gary M brought his son Brett over to tour our cellar, they showed up with a couple of pizzas on an evening we were all bach'ing it. I was hoping (my) #1 Son Ryan could also join us but it turned out he was traveling.

We pulled (from the cellar), popped and poured some big hearty pizza wines. I wanted to show off one of my favorite Big Reds, Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz, compared to another similar vintage and site selection Kaesler Bogan 2005, and another favorite high QPR favorite Shiraz Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 101.

I've written in this blog about the producer Flinders Run Emanuel Skorpos and the Southern Flinders Range's site and their winemaking heritage.

We hold two vintages of this wine, the 2005 and the 2006 which was bigger, more brooding and bold, but less slightly polished or elegant than the '05. That said, I wanted to see how the '06 would match up alongside the Kaesler which has a similar style and character but is even moreso the traits of the '06 relative to the '05, Flinders, forward, slightly aggressive, less polished.

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006

We love this wine and consider it a benchmark representation of Southern Australian Shiraz at its very best, and at a pricepoint between $25-35 it offers a relative great QPR (Quality to Price ratio). I wish I could find more of it. Not sure what happened to Flinders Run. It appeared on the market selectively for these vintages and we haven't see it since.

Like earlier comparison tasting of varied big reds, this was the hit of the evening. Consistent with earlier notes, the 2006 Flinders is dark inky purple, full bodied, powerfully scented bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and fresh flowers bursting with flavors of thick chewy black raspberry, blueberry and cassis with layers of nut, vanilla and hints of mocha flavors on a tongue coating lingering finish with tones of black tea and what Parker refers to as 'pain grillé' which is the French word for 'toast'. As much as we like this wine, the 2005 may be even better, being more polished, smoother and more balanced.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

http://www.flindersrun.com.au/

Kaesler The Bogan Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005

Like the Flinders, this is not for the feint of heart. This is another big bold forward wine that demands a food pairing to balance its aggressiveness. While this label tends to be popular and highly rated, it is not a style I favor, as I find it to have non-fruit characteristics predominating that detract from its appeal. Before we tasted this, I warned the guys it would be similar in style with its big bold forward approach, but the fruit would be diminished by a layer of tea, tobacco leaf and creosote. It revealed itself exactly as I predicted.

Read through the long litany of Cellartracker reviews and see the preponderance of earth, pepper, coffee, smoked meat, leather and mint, eucalyptus and  you'll see what I mean. While these are all acceptable descriptors and tones in a big forward wine, I prefer they be accents rather than the mainstream headliner tones, which has been my experience with the lesser and mid tier Kaesler labels (Oct 10, 2002, April 20, 2008,  Sept 22, 2005, February 28, 2007). Only at the high end with their ulta-premium 'Old Bastard' label (March 11, 2002, May 22, 2004, February 23, 2013), at $100+, have I experienced the fruit to predominate in their wines.

As with earlier tastings, dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied with nose of earth, pepper and spices before revealing fruit flavors. Tones of blackberry, black cherry are overtaken by alcohol, smoke, creosote, tobacco leaf and black tea with hints of cedar and mint on the firm lengthy finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=292220 

http://kaesler.com.au/ 

Ninety Plus Cellars Columbia Valley Lot 101 Syrah 2009

Like earlier tastings, I opened this Shiraz to show a contrast in styles and regions, and age, of the same varietal. I've raved about this wine several times in this blog, and tonight, like before, it didn't disappoint, standing up to the other Big Reds. I've stated that this may be one of our favorite drinking wines in our cellar right now, certainly at this price point!

Compared to the forward, obtuse Kaeslar, the Lot 101 Shiraz came across as smooth, polished and elegant, although not as much so as the Flinders.

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 91 Rutherford Napa Valley Zinfandel 2012

For a last comparison tasting of another Big Red, I pulled this Napa Valley Rutherford Zinfandel. The rep for this was pouring it when I stopped in Sav-Way Hinsdale the other evening and it presented itself as a big forward fruit filled easy sipper that should go well with pizza - and a good QPR at $17. When I opened it tonight against the other Big Reds, it met its match and was put in its place. When compared to the big Aussie Shiraz', this came across as lean and even a bit flabby with moderate fruit and body. By itself, it would've probably been fine for a casual easy sipping pizza wine, as prescribed, but against the big bold Barossa Shiraz', it wasn't a fair fight. 

I've written often in this blog about Ninety-Plus Cellars with their high QPR negociant offerings. 

Here is their listing on this Napa Valley Rutherford Zinfandel.

"Story - This winery has been harvesting Zinfandel in the heart of the Napa Valley since way back when big hair and parachute pants were popular. It's a totally righteous red made from Zinfandel ripened to perfection under the Napa Sunshine. Straight up, this is one totally awesome Zin that you'll never want to give up.'

"Tasting Notes - Inky purple with aromas of raspberries, wildflowers, and toffee that rain down upon a foundation of ripe plum, and sweet spice. A magical celebration of flavor hits you like a sledgehammer, beckoning you to give it one more try all night long. Time after time, it pairs perfectly with a grilled ribeye with or without bleu cheese. Show your true colors by sharing it with others because that's what friends are for."

Dark purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with a bit of leather and spice. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1970092

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-91-zinfandel