Sunday, December 29, 2024

Father son Constant and Darioush tasting

Following the afternoon into evening family gathering celebrating Christmas, the grandkids were taken home to be put to bed, sons Ryan and Alec stayed over for an end of evening wine tasting. 

We raided the cellar and the boys pulled two aged premium Napa Cabernets - Darioush and Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyards. 

Darioush “Signature” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Darioush was founded by Iranian-born entrepreneur Darioush Khaledi and his wife Shahpar who emigrated to the U.S. in 1976. Darioush Khaledi was born and raised in Iran, where his father made wine as a hobby.

He immigrated to the United States in the 1970s, and founded a successful grocery store chain called KV Mart. On their 20th wedding anniversary, they visited Napa Valley where they tried California wines for the first time, and decided to buy land and start a winery.

Their search for property ended in Napa’s southern valley in Altamura Winery’s old property in 1997 where Darioush and Steve Devitt chose to produce Bordeaux-styled wines in the cooler microclimates of Mount Veeder and Oak Knoll. 

Darioush makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir and a dessert wine.

We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003 winery visit and cellar tasting with winemaker Steve McDevitt. Their fabulous winery and tasting facility on Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley was not yet open but was well under construction at that time. Tonight's wine selection was from the case we purchased during that visit. We then visited the newly opened winery during our Pour Boys’ Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017, as featured in this blogpost - Darioush Napa Valley Estate Winery Visit & Tasting. It has become a "destination winery" in Napa for its dramatic Persian monumental architecture. The 22,000 square foot estate winery is both ostentatious and majestic.

During that recent 'Pour Boys' Sonoma/NapaValley Wine Experience when we visited several longstanding favorite producers including Darioush. This was fitting since we first discovered and tasted Darioush at Cress Creek Country Club (Naperville, IL)  with Bill and Beth C on our first wine event together more than a decade ago. 

And, Dr Dan was our guest at a special Darioush wine dinner at Everest in Chicago, shortly after our winery visit. The gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004 was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Bernard Laborie of Domaine de Chevalier celebrating their collaboration with Olivier Bernard and Domaine de Chevalier in Pesaac Leognan Bordeaux. Chef Joho prepared a special dinner featuring and complementing their wines poured by winemaker Steve McDevitt.


I mention this since we saw Bernard at the UGCB grand tasting of the 2010 Bordeaux release in Chicago this week and we reminisced about that evening. See my UGCB blogpost of that evening. There’s a parallel here as Bernard has turned over some of the management of Domaine de Chevalier to his son, a contemporary of son Ryan. The boys met at that UGCB grand tasting.

Darioush "Signature" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 

This remains a blockbuster wine, living up to the tone set by the large oversize, almost magnum size bottle packaging.

At twenty-four years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were ideal. This was still at the apex of its drinking window, showing no diminution from aging whatsoever, and showing prospect to age gracefully for several more years to come. 

This is blended from grapes grown on Mt. Veeder, Atlas Peak and the Napa Valley. It is a blend of Bordeaux varietals, 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It was aged in 100% French oak barrels,

This release was rated 94 points by Wine Enthusiast in 2003. 

Winemaker Notes - “This intense Cabernet is from the Mt. Veeder appellation high above the Napa Valley floor. This mountain site, together with the 2000 vintage, which was characterized by a mild summer with cool evening temperatures, resulted in a wine of elegance and restraint. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak barrels, and bottled without filtration and with minimal handling, this is a pure example of terroir. Impressive with layered blackberry and cassis fruit and a long, explosive.”

Dark inky color, full bodied, complex and concentrated yet elegant, smooth and polished, layers of black currant, blackberry, plum, black cherry fruits with a layer of spicy cinnamon oak with tones of black tea, anise, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate and a hint of tar, with velvety smooth tannins with a long lush finish, 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=551751   

http://www.darioush.com/


Constant "Diamond Mountain Vineyard" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

I featured our visit to the Constant Diamond Mountain Estate Vineyards and Winery in a more detailed blogpost back in 2011 and this wine in a 2020 blogpost - Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Constant Vineyards & Winery, excerpted here.
Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Constant Vineyards & Winery

Our visit to Diamond Mountain reached the 'summit' with a visit to Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard and winery at the top of the mountain, sitting at over 2100 feet elevation. It also is among the oldest wineries in the valley with history dating back to the late 1800's.
Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was founded by Freddy and Mary Constant who established Diamond Mountain Vineyard in 1993 when they bought a dilapidated but historic farmhouse high on Diamond Mountain. 

At 2121 feet above sea level, it may be the highest, or certainly one of the highest, vineyards in the region where the cool Pacific breezes reach all the way through the Petaluma Gap. The couple had backgrounds as radio station entrepreneurs but set upon their plan on Diamond Mountain was to grow and sell grapes to winemakers. However with the 1995 vintage they started producing small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon under their own label. When Wine Spectator wrote in 1999 that Constant was “a new can’t miss Cabernet…this vineyard is able to produce stunning wines on a consistent basis.” they set about to Constant produces very small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Claret and Syrah from estate vineyards. 

I wrote about in these pages about our visit to the Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard and this Napa Cabernet 2004 in detail back in 2020, excerpted here. 
Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

With the late Freddie Constant at the Constant
Diamond Mountain estate
We discovered and acquired this wine when we visited the spectacular picturesque Constant Vineyards estate high atop Diamond Mountain during our Diamond Mountain Appellation Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2011.

We still hold close to a case of Constant wines and tonight we were rewarded for being patient as this wine has developed very nicely. 

Our tasting and visit back then were hosted by proprietor Freddie Constant, founder and proprietor. Sadly, Freddie passed away in 2014. All of our group that were there remember him fondly and toast him each time we drink his wine. 

The Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard sits at the peak of Diamond Mountain on the Mayacamas Range separating Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west and is one of the area’s highest, oldest, and smallest wineries in the region. At 2121 feet above sea level, it may be the highest, or certainly one of the highest, vineyards in the region. 

Constant Diamond Mountain Estate Vineyards
The Diamond Mountain District appellation, one of the smaller Napa wine districts, sits just south of and above the town of Calistoga in the northwest corner of Napa Valley.

The unique terroir and micro-climate at the very top of Diamond Mountain provides grapes with optimal sun exposure and elongated ripening periods, The sun drenched slopes with their rocky terrain and volcanic soil produce rich concentrated Bordeaux varietal fruit.

Today the area is home to some of the most notable and prestigious labels including the namesake label Diamond Mountain vineyards. Our afternoon on the mountaintop retreat was one of the more memorable settings from our many Napa Valley trips. 

The mountaintop land that would become Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was first settled in 1895 by Andras Rasmussen, a Danish immigrant. After working in the wine industry for 15 years at Talcoa Vineyard (now Hudson Vineyard in Carneros), at Summit Vineyard and Winery, and studying viticulture at UC Davis – Rasmussen purchased 120 forested acres atop Diamond Mountain, cleared about 30 acres himself, and planted the first grapevines at the summit.

The vines were abandoned in the 1920s and 1930s due to Prohibition.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard was established by Freddy and Mary Constant in 1993 when they bought a dilapidated but historic farmhouse and set upon reestablishing the vineyards which by then were overgrown and wild.

The couple had backgrounds as radio station entrepreneurs but their plan on Diamond Mountain was to grow and sell grapes to winemakers. They believed they had a unique and spectacular plot of land capable of producing premium fruit and soon they were growing grapes for several of the best winemakers in the area.

The started producing small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon but their first vintage in 1993 was not to their standards and it was never released.  They released their first vintage in 1995 under the Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard label. They proceeded to build a winery on the estate producing their wine under the Constant label and brand. In 1999 Wine Spectator wrote that Constant was “a new can’t miss Cabernet, this vineyard is able to produce stunning wines on a consistent basis.” The original winemaker was the notable Philippe Melka. With the 2009 vintage, Paul Hobbs took over as consulting winemaker.

Notably, we collect Philippe Melka wines to this day an featured his label at a recent business dinner.  

Freddie and Mary hired renowned architect Howard Backen who built a stunning house along with a tasting room hospitality center overlooking the valley floor with a full view of Mount St. Helena.

Freddy Constant died in 2014. In 2016, Aries Liu and Sai You became the property’s caretakers with the continued commitment to producing some of Napa Valley’s best Bordeaux varietals.

Constant Diamond Mountain Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Back in 2020 I wrote, I believe this is the best, most memorable Constant Cabernet I have had and may be, at sixteen years of age, at the apex of its drinking profile and window. This remains the case four years later, here on the eve of 2025.

The blend includes small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. 

It was awarded 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate in 2014. Wine Enthusiast gave it 88 points. 
 
Deep garnet purple color, medium-full bodied, delicious concentrated but smooth and elegant and nicely balanced ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits with hints of black currant, notes of cassis, spice, oak and graphite with rich silky refined tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=437961

https://www.constantwine.com/

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner

The entire family, our four kids and their eleven kids/grandkids gathered at our house for a gala Christmas celebration, gift exchange and dinner. It’s wonderful that we are near to each other and enjoy so much getting together - especially the kids with their cousins. 

Linda prepared a fabulous dinner highlighted by ramekins of lobster tails and buttered croutons, beef tenderloin as main courses. Sides included twice baked potatoes, mashed potatoes haricot verts and chopped salad. 

Also set out was a selection of artisan cheeses with crackers, an extensive selection of Christmas cookies and festive punch.

From the cellar we had a broad wine flight of champagne, whites and reds.    

The wine flight - 

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

Cliff Lede High Fidelity 2018

Fantesca Spring Mtn District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004


Table one of two … 



Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998

It’s easy to see why this is a timeless classic Champagne, Dom Pérignon, the benchmark of premium French Champagne. A perfect bottle to close out the year of our 50th anniversary, with family for our holiday celebration. 



At 25 years, I wondered what condition this vintage bottle would be in and it was perfect, still at the apex of its drinking profile and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. This was perhaps the best Champagne I think I’ve ever had - delicious.  

Deep dark golden color, medium bodied, fine mousse, and complex bouquet and flavors of brioche, yellow apple, pear and hint of peach with touch of mineral, lightly toasted almonds, refined acidity, a creamy mid palate, and a long and focused finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?129100

We then moved to two Sonoma County Chardonnays

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge brand and the Croix Estate winery in Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, is the ‘sister’ winery to Venge Vineyards in Calistoga Napa Valley, of winemaker/producer Kirk Venge. The rather odd, unique name is a testament to the pioneer entrepreneurs and their historic narrow gauge railroad that connected the producers in Sonoma County with the marketplace in San Francisco. 

As described on the producer website, “It was the Carter brothers, in an act of political and economic defiance, that introduced the narrow gauge railroad movement to Northern California in the late 1870’s. In what has become known as the bay areas first example of radical, technological innovation, the introduction of an alternative goods distribution system was a direct challenge to the hegemony of the Central Pacific Railroad’s grip on the transportation of goods. Prior to the injection of this new go-to-market path, Sonoma County’s local and regional marketplace was constrained by a handful of distribution centers that were costly in time and material to the average, family-owned producer. Only when the more affordable and nimble narrow gauge tracks and trains were put into place in Northern California did the region see the rapid expansion of agricultural and industrial development take place. Our Narrow Gauge Chardonnay celebrates the historical significance of such a movement.” 

Kirk grew up in the wine business working in the vineyards and winery aside his legendary dad, Nils Venge. Born and raised in Rutherford, Napa Valley, Kirk Venge earned his degree in Viticulture and Enology at the prestigious University of California, Davis.  After graduating, he set upon buying the Venge brand and winery from his family. From that foundation in Napa Valley, he ventured across the Mayacamas divide and set roots in Sonoma County, where his mother was born. 

In addition to Croix Estate and his namesake vineyard and winery, Venge Vineyards, he is consulting winemaker for several, prominent micro-producers in Napa Valley.

We’ve been fans of Nils’ and Kirk’s wines since the earliest days and first met Kirk while visiting Nils at the old Penny Lane Family Vineyards at the Saddleback Winery in Rutherford and he took us up to the Rossini Ranch estate in Calistoga back in 2002 (shown above) which was under initial construction at the time. 

Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is sourced from estate vineyard in the heart of Russian River Valley to the Pacific Coast, and from superior vineyards throughout Sonoma County. They have relationships with our growers across nearly two dozen vineyard sites within the region. 

This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is a blend of select vineyards grown throughout Russian River Valley. With access to many of the best sites in the appellation, we felt compelled to create a wine that expresses the regional position in its entirety. These notable vineyards include Morelli Lane Vineyard - Dutton Ranch, Floodgate Vineyard, Calesa Vineyard, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Ritchie Vineyard, and Richard Dinner Vineyard.

Winemaker notes - “A fuller, yet bright and refreshing style of Chardonnay, this wine has a golden straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of raw honey, marmalade, fresh citrus zest, toasted pine nuts, rocky flints, all spice, toasted oak and lusciousness on the nose that is ever so inviting. Island ripe pineapple, apple, stone fruit, and crisp pear leave the mouthwatering in a cascade of pleasure.

Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, there was consensus that the crisp tropical and stone fruit tones were rather muted giving way to the mineral, rock flint and pine nuts, taking away, detracting from the potential of the terroir.

RM 92 points. 



Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017

We wrote about Radio-Coteau and their portfolio of single vineyard designated wines in an earlier post last spring -  Radio Coteau Sonoma Coast Los Colinas Syrah, excerpted below.

The interesting moniker Radio-Coteau (rā’ dē ō – kō tō’) is a French colloquial expression suggesting “word of mouth” , which literally translated means “broadcasting from the hillside”. Ironically, the origin of use of the term is from the French Northern Rhone wine region. The odd name is reminiscent of one of our favorite producer, Vieux Telegraph, ironically from the Rhône River Valley, but deriving its name for a different historical reason

This is the handicraft of Eric Sussman, winegrower and proprietor of the the property going back to the early 2000s. While scouting vineyard sites for the first Radio-Coteau vintage, he met and began a relationship with Robert Von Weidlich, the owner of the property at that time. The 2002 Radio-Coteau Von Weidlich Zinfandel was the first product of that collaboration.

Eric established Radio-Coteau in 2002, focusing on the north coast vineyards of western Sonoma County and the Anderson Valley up to the north in Mendocino County. 

The current owners acquired the Radio-Coteau historic 42-acre Estate vineyard and ranch located on a ridgetop above the town of Occidental in 2012.  The estate winery was originally named Joseph Morelli & Sons before Prohibition, the Lemorel winery (as it was later known) dates back to 1892, when the first vines were planted. 

The estate lies ten miles from the ocean on a ridgetop above Occidental, halfway between Santa Rosa and the Pacific coast, situated 800 feet above sea level, the property is a diverse agroecosystem, or terroir, with beneficial Goldridge soil.  The benchland location is comprised of the fine sandy loam Goldridge soil, remnants of an ancient seabed, which provides excellent drainage and moderate fertility.

Eric, a New York State native, developed his passion for winegrowing while studying agriculture at Cornell University. After spending several years in Washington’s Yakima Valley, he worked in France as an apprentice working the 1995 vintage in Bordeaux at Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Pauillac, and 1996 in Burgundy at Domaine Comte Armand of Pommard and Domaine Jacques Prieur of Meursault. There he gained respect and appreciation for the intrinsic connection between land, people and the wine they produce.

Returning to the US, he spent a year at Bonny Doon Winery in Santa Cruz, before settling in Western Sonoma County where he spent four years as the associate winemaker for Dehlinger.

Most of his portfolio of wines are sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, which borders the Green Valley and Russian River Valley AVAs but he also produces some wines sourced from remote sites such as this one. 

Radio-Coteau has established blocks of Syrah and old-vine Zinfandel, and recently replanted existing acreage to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. The estate has three vineyards.

This 2017 Radio-Coteau is a single vineyard designated wine from the Savoy Vineyards up near the town of Philo in Mendocino County, north of Sonoma. 

The producer says of this site - “ Burgundy has proven that quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can be grown in the same soil, Corton hill being the classic example. Wines from this special place inspired our decision to make Chardonnay from the organically farmed Savoy Vineyard, whose soil and climate are also ideal for both Burgundian varietals.” 

This 2017 release was rated 91-93 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round, nicely balanced mineral, slightly obtuse sharp forward pear and lemon citrus fruits with melon, floral and stone fruits notes on a tangy acidic finish.

RM 92 points. 

Moving to the red wine flight with the beef tenderloin …

Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)

This magnum birth year vintage Bordeaux is the oldest of a vertical collection of large format bottles for each of the kid’s birth years, and probably the most challenged questionable vintage for long term aging. 

We toured the grounds of the magnificent Chateau and estate, just a couple of blocks from our B&B rooming house, during our visit to Margaux in 2019, but traded phone calls and emails several times with the producer during our visit and failed to set up our private tour and tasting. 

At twenty three years the foil was intact, the label was perfect, and the most important cork was soft, spongy and disintegrated upon removal, and the fill level was bottom of neck, top of shoulder, (as shown) showing signs revealing its age. 


I decanted this several hours before serving. 

This release was awarded 92 points by John Gilman in 2016, 90-92 points by Wine Advocate back in 2002, and 91 points by Vinous most recently in 2023. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points. 

Despite being from magnum which should age more gracefully and longer than a standard bottle, ours was showing its age and was past its prime drinking window.

The color was dark garnet colored, showing some murkiness and slight bricking on the brim. Medium to full bodied, the nice dark berry bouquet persisted while the somewhat subdued slightly austere fruit flavor notes were off set by a slight vegetative musky funkiness, with earthy, black tea, leather and tobacco notes on a moderate, fine tannin laced finish. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22774


Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 

Fantesca Estate and Winery, one of our favorite Napa Valley producers is owned by Duane and Susan Hoff, who moved on from their careers as executives at Best Buy for this Spring Mountain District winery above St Helena in the Mayacamas Range between Mt Veeder and Diamond Mountain. 

We still held several cases and a vertical collection spanning a decade from our visits to the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007. 

The Fantesca Spring Mountain District Estate and Winery (shown right), in the early years’ vintages, from 2002-2007, were managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge; then in 2008 they teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

From their ten acre vineyard, they produce ultra-premium 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there is an acre planted in Petit Verdot. 

They also source grapes from the Sonoma County Russian River Valley to produce a bright crisp full flavored Burgundian Chardonnay, the first ever by Heidi Barrett. 

Fantesca products make for festive serving features or as elegant gifts as are lavishly packaged in stylish heavy etched glass bottles with painted 'labels', or in original wood cases. 

The elegant upscale Fantesca packaging and branding features etched and painted weighty bottles each explaining the namesake Fantesca.'

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. 

Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

Being extraordinary marketeers, Duane and Susan brought on DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador Director. I first met DLynn when he was Ambassador and Education Director at legendary Australian producer Penfolds when he hosted  a Penfolds Grange Wine Tasting Flight here in Chicago. What fun to meet DLynn in person having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining critically acclaimed documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix.

DLynn is more than a sommelier; he's a celebrity in his own right, having also appeared as Kevin Hart's sommelier in the Peacock Original TV Series "Hart to Heart" in addition to his prominent role in the documentary series 'SOMM,'he  and add "Associate Producer" to his titles with his cameo and behind-the-scenes work in the Netflix Original film 'Uncorked.'

We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate. 

Duane Hoff pouring 2002 vintage while visiting
Rick & Linda 
in Chicago during 2004 vintage
release marketing outreach tour.
.
Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.

This bottle included a fun, unique, creative Fantesca ‘Fortune Corkie’, a contest for all consumers to participate to submit entries in exchange for wine!



Fantesca Napa Valley, Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon is packaged in an elegant etched glass, painted bottle. 
(2006 shown)

Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.




Cliff Lede “High Fidelity” Napa Valley Red 2018

Ryan brought from his cellar this ultra-premium Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend which he acquired as part of his wine club member allocation. This was my WOTN - Wine of the Night (of the reds, aside the Champagne). 

This is from Cliff Lede estate vineyards, established in 2002, they encompass sixty acres in the famed Stags Leap District. Owner Cliff Lede has assembled a world class team with Vineyard Architect David Abreu  and Winemaker Christopher Tynan. 

We've visited the Cliff Lede estate on several of our Napa Valley wine trips and several of our wine buddies including son Ryan source allocated wines as members of their club. 

Winemaker notes - “The 2018 vintage was a glorious growing year for Napa Valley. A frost-free and uniform bud break was followed by steady spring weather during flowering, allowing for an even and generous fruit set. Summer conditions were moderate, with warm days and cool nights, ideal for slow and steady grape maturation.”

“Optimal ripeness was achieved thanks to an early autumn of consistently warm, but not hot, days. The pristine ripening conditions allowed for very intense fruit flavor concentrations. The wines show exceptional balance with concentrated, ripe fruit complemented by bright acidity and supple, yet intense, structure.”

The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend are from our Twin Peaks estate vineyard, while the Cabernet Franc hails from acclaimed viticulturist David Abreu’s Madrona Ranch. The vineyards are farmed with meticulous attention to detail, maintaining yields at sparse levels—ranging from two to three tons per acre. The wine is composed of just a few of our best lots from these most cherished sites.

This was a blend of Bordeaux varietals - 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot. 

The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 66% of which was new, for twenty-two months. Production was 1,142 cases.

Winemaker Notes - “Dark ruby colored, the 2018 High Fidelity displays a succulent assortment of complex and intriguing aromas and flavors. It starts with a fragrance of sage, steeped Oolong black tea, rhubarb, and melted black licorice notes. There’s a rush of red currants, fruitcake, cinnamon candies, and black truffle flavors across the palate.”

“The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish.” – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck. 

The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish. – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking

Dark garnet-purple color, medium to full-bodied, complex but elegant and polished, blackberry, black currant and raspberry fruits, nuances of milk chocolate, cinnamon spice, hints of cedar and graphite pencil lead silky finely grained tannins on the smooth lingering finish., 

RM 94 points. 


Saturday, December 28, 2024

Fine Dining at Hinsdale Prime Steak

Fine Dining at Hinsdale Prime Steak

Daughter Erin and Son-in-Law Johnny took us to dinner for a Christmas gift, and a joint celebration of our 50th Anniversary year and their 19th Anniversary this coming week(end). 

They took us to Hinsdale Prime Steak, just opened in September 2024 in the heart of tony Hinsdale, (IL) downtown across from the train station in what used to be the Corner Bakery. 

Owners Antonio Monroy and Ignacio Martinez, are Family and lifelong friends. Longtime hospitality industry veterans, they cite themselves as “Founders of ‘A groundbreaking take on timeless steakhouse’ with a commitment to quality and innovation in hospitality, offering the finest cuts of meat to ensure a remarkable dining experience for every guest”. 

Hinsdale Prime Steak Chef Javier Gomez has 30 years of culinary experience in Hotels, Private Clubs, Steakhouses, and French & Italian cuisine. He shares the owners’ commitment to quality and innovation towards ensuring that each meal at Hinsdale Prime Steak is an extraordinary experience.

Front of the house General Manager Cisco Cortez has thirty five years hospitality experience opening notable restaurants in Italian, French, and Mexican food.

Oscar Valencia Beverage Director, a wine enthusiast with 25+ years of combined experience in the hospitality business studied wines in Boulder Colorado.

Looking forward to a fine wine and dining experience, I pulled from our cellar two aged vintage ultra-premium labels from which to select one to pair with our dinner selections, both from the kids’ anniversary vintage year, the other a very rare single vineyard designated label from a prime western US vineyard with which we have a family connection. 

We were disappointed when advised they could/would not serve our BYOB. I admonished them that pre-opening press about the restaurant implied they were getting a BYOB license. Furthermore, they did not publish any wine list or wine policy. Lastly, for a prime upscale steak house, their wine list was quite limited, with a small selection of Bordeaux varietal wines on offer. They directed me to their “Gem’s” wine list, a select or ‘reserve’ list of ten ultra-premium labels at ultra-premium+ prices. 

In light of their limited wine list selections, which may be the reason they don’t publish it, we feel it’s extremely short-sighted and limiting to not entertain BYOB. It’s not about economics since it’s reasonable and customary to charge a corkage fee, which we are willing to pay, for the ability to enjoy a very special bottle for a special occasion. 

We admit we place a higher emphasis on wine when dining out, never-the-less, this will limit the number of times we’ll return, since enjoying special selections from our cellar is a big part of our dining experience. Naturally, we gravitate to and frequent establishments that offer such a service. 

In any event, we had planned to order at least one bottle, most likely a white if we ordered seafood, and eventually ordered tow bottles, a white and a red from their wine list.

Linda and I shared the chopped salad which was ample for them to split for us making it ideal. 


For a starter the kid’s ordered the Grilled Spanish Octopus with chickpea puree’,  heirloom tomatoes  and petite herb salad.
 

For my entree, I was pleased to see a New’s Year’s Eve Special menu which offered one of my favorite dishes, Sautéed Dover Sole with White Wine and Capers, served  with Sautéed Spinach, (below), which I gladly ordered. It was delectable.  I wrote about different variations of Sole, and similar delicate white fish in an earlier blogpost this fall

Erin also ordered another seafood dish from the menu, Chilean Seabass, which was equally delicious.. 

To pair with our dinners we ordered form the limited selection (only two Chardonnays offered), Far Niente Napa Valley Chardonnay. 

Johnny and Linda both ordered steaks, so, casting aside any hopes of pairing with our BYOB selection, we ordered from the rather limited wine list a Super Tuscan Bordeaux varietal red.

Far Niente Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay 2023

Far Niente is a well known, celebrated Napa Valley winery known for its exceptional premium Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, consistently recognized as a benchmark producer in the region. 

The 2023 Far Niente Chardonnay is crafted from a selection of premium Napa Valley vineyards located in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley. 

These vineyards benefit from cool breezes that waft in from the San Pablo Bay, and well-drained soils, which contribute to the vibrant acidity and rich flavors of the wine. 

This was an ideal pairing with our seafood entrees. 

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes - “The 2023 vintage enchants with a beautiful bouquet of citrus, white florals, and subtle hints of honeydew melon and nectarine. On the palate, the wine opens with a silky texture that gives way to vibrant flavors of lemon-lime zest and lemon verbena. The bright, refreshing acidity lifts the fruit notes, leading to a long, juicy finish that leaves a lasting impression. Crisp minerality enhances the overall structure, supporting the generous fruit and ensuring a refined balance.”



Linda ordered the eight ounce Filet Mignon while Johnny ordered the “Petite Brande”, an eight ounce filet with pepper crust, mushrooms and Madeira truffle sauce. Both were prepared perfectly and were superb. 

For pairing with the steaks, we ordered from the wine list this Bordeaux Blend Super Tuscan


For sides we ordered the Creamy Polenta and Creamed Spinach. Both were fabulous. 



Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Super Tuscan Red Blend 2021 

This is from Tenuta di Arceno, a historic Tuscan estate situated at the southernmost-edge of Chianti Classico in the butterfly-shaped commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, closest in proximity to Siena and rightfully referred to as ‘the most Sienese Chianti Classico. The ancient walled town of San Gusmè, provides a picturesque backdrop for the vineyards of Tenuta di Arceno.

The estate covers 2,500 acres, of which 220 acres are planted to vines – the remaining land is preserved for native vegetation including 125 acres of olive orchards. Separated into 63 distinct vineyard blocks, the vineyards are planted to 50% Sangiovese and 50% international varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

The estate produces a broad diverse portfolio of the high quality wines across two classification levels – three wines centered on the native Sangiovese grape in the Chianti Classico DOCG collection; and three wines celebrating the estate’s international varieties under the Toscana IGT designation. 

il fauno di Arcanum is a Bordeaux-style blend that embodies the diversity of the estate and is sourced primarily from the Arceno di Sotto, La Curva, Colombaio and San Giovanni blocks. Located in the lower southwest section of the estate, in a warmer, exposed subsection that ripens early, the soils possess a significant amount of clay, with good water retention, and produce wines that tend to be produce fruits that are more voluptuous and lush.

The branding of Tenuta di Arceno features a faun statue on the estate that has become the symbol for the winery. It inspired the name for il fauno, and is featured on the label. The faun itself is a being that is half human-half animal. The winery states,  “It expresses a duality into a unity – two natures in one body – in the same way that Tenuta di Arceno has embraced the dual expressions of DOCG and IGT wines into one style. It represents the coming together of two separately existing beings in the birth of something different – a new reality, derived from existing traditions, that represents greater possibility”.

This IGT designated release is a Blend of Bordeaux varietals, known as a ‘Super Tuscan’. It is a blend of 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. It was aged in French oak, for 10-12 months. Production was 121,900 bottles.

It was rated 93 points by James Suckling.

Winemakers notes - “The nose showcases more earthy aromas than fruit, highlighting nutmeg, cypress and roses. On the palate, the entrance is supple with luscious mouth filling tannins and expresses flavors of black cherries, candied apples and licorice. This beautifully layered blend carries through to a long, spicy finish with hints of balsamic, cloves and white pepper.

Bright garnet colored, medium full bodied, expressive forward blackberry and black cherry fruits are accented with sprites of cigar box and cedar with notes of dark chocolate, tapenade, hints of pepper against a backdrop of soft oak with fine, dusty tannins extending to a long, solid finish. 

RM 91 points. 



We recommend Hinsdale Prime Steak Restaurant. The service was attentive and professional, and the food was fabulous. The wine list while quite limited is carefully selected, and the atmosphere is a bit noisy and boisterous with limited seating. The menu is creative and offers thirteen choices in steaks, chops and lamb, and ten choices in seafood, a chicken dish and two vegetarian options. There are ten side dish options of potatoes, polenta or vegetables. There is a selection of oysters, a half dozen salads and like number of starters. 



Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Christmas family dinner features La Sirena Chardonnay, lobster and pasta

Christmas family dinner features La Sirena Chardonnay, lobster and pasta 

Continuing our tour of the kid’s homes on Christmas Day, following our Christmas revelry ultra-premium wine flight at son Ryan’s, we proceeded to son Alec and Vivianna’s and ended staying for early dinner. Alec prepared his hearty Rigatoni with Lobster medallions and Vodka Cream Sauce. 



With dinner, Alec pulled from his cellar this limited production/release premium Russian River Valley, Sonoma County Chardonnay from a legendary producer. 

La Sirena Russian River Valley Sonoma County Chardonnay 2021

We’ve had several La Sirena wines over the yesrs, but never a white. Alec acquired this at auction. La Sirena is the personal brand and label of legendary winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett, one of the world’s most renowned and respected winemakers. 

Since the 1980s, she has created some of the Napa Valley’s most famous wines, including Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle, Grace Family, Paradigm, and many others. She started her own brand, La Sirena, in 1994, and began her collaboration brand, Barrett & Barrett, with her husband, Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena, in 2008.

For some great wine focused entertainment, and to learn about more about the legendary Judgement of Paris, and about Bo Barrett and Chateau Montelena, watch the movie “Bottle Shock” (Trailer),  (“Bottle Shock” You Tube Stream)! 

From her winesite, we learn, “Heidi got her start at a young age. Her father, Dick Peterson, is a scientist-winemaker, and her mother, Diane, an artist. She gravitated toward both fields, and found that the world of wine was an ideal place for her to explore and combine these passions. Growing up, she worked in numerous vineyards and wineries alongside her dad, and decided to pursue it as a career. She attended UC Davis for fermentation science and went on to several internships and positions in the industry. Her career took off in the late 80s when she began working for Dalla Valle as an “independent winemaker”’
.
She began to develop a tiny project called Screaming Eagle shortly afterwards, and from there, things escalated quickly. With 5 perfect 100-point scores for her wines in the span of just a few years, Heidi skyrocketed to international fame, setting a world record for the highest price ever paid for a single bottle of wine ($500,000 for a 6L of 1992 Screaming Eagle at the Napa Valley Wine Auction in 2000).

Today, Heidi maintains a stable of ultra-premium client wineries, including Amuse Bouche, Au Sommet, Fantesca, and Mars Estate, as well as her own brands La Sirena, Barrett & Barrett, and Aviatrix. She and Bo live among their vineyards in Calistoga. In her free time, she enjoys scuba diving, skiing, flying her helicopter, making art, and gardening.

She named her brand and label La Sirena, which means “the Mermaid” in Spanish and Italian. She chose it because she’s a loves the ocean and scuba diving and wanted a winery name that was fun & magical (like wine). The first vintage of La Sirena was 1994, with the first Cabernet Sauvignon made in 1996. The current portfolio consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Moscato Azul (dry Muscat Canelli), Rosato (rosé of Primitivo), Chardonnay, Malbec, Barrett Vineyard Syrah, and red blends, Studio Series and Pirate TreasuRed. Production is always small, focusing on fine wines of purity and excellence.

This wine is sourced from the original 1969 planting of the Rued clone of Chardonnay, known for its somewhat tropical aromatics (some even refer to it as the Muscat clone of Chardonnay), and blended with fruit from the Bacigalupi Paris Block, one of the sources for the Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay that won the Paris Tasting. 225 cases produced

Duane Hoff, proprietor of Fantesca told us when they hired Heidi as consulting winemaker, their Chardonnay was the first one she had ever crafted. Of this label, Heidi says, “I have made Chardonnay a number of times for my clients over the years, but I was not compelled to make my own until a special vineyard source became available in 2016 - the Rued family original vineyard planted in 1969. The offer was intriguing, so I went to have a look, and was immediately taken with the magnificent old vines and their large gnarled trunks & arms. For the first time this vintage, I also blended in some Chardonnay from the famous Bacigalupi Paris Block, one of the sources for the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay that won the Paris Tasting.”

Hence, this is 100% Chardonnay,  60% of this Chardonnay comes from Valdez Vineyard and 40% from Bacigalupi Paris Block. It was aged in French oak barrels 10% new for 10 months. Production was 225 cases.

Winemaker notes - “Brilliant light golden straw in color with gorgeous fruit aromas of crisp pear, pineapple, delicate melon, a whiff of green apple and citrus, with nice minerality and complementary notes of caramel, beeswax, and a kiss of vanilla. A very light touch of of toasty French oak enhances the aromatics and fruit flavors across the palate. The mouthfeel, texture and flavor profile is just delicious, with nicely balanced acidity and richness that lingers in an extraordinary finish.”

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full, round textured vibrant peach, lemon and pineapple fruit tones with a rich crème brulee’ layer with a crisp silky smooth lingering finish. 

RM 92 points.