DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

Wife Linda often works at Yorktown in Lombard on Friday evenings so we regularly meet there for a casual date night wine and dine encounter at DOC. They regularly feature a selection of wine flights - three different wines of the same style for sharing/comparing. Their menu offers mostly small plates and sides suitable for wine pairing vs an extensive selection of entrees. So it was tonight that we chose the premium Reserve Flight to accompany my selection of sushi grade Ahi Tuna and Linda's pulled pork 'sliders', with a side of our favored polenta fries. All the foods were excellent and the service was attentive, friendly and effective.

The DOC folks actually have nine different locations around Chicagoland, four of those being operated under the DOC brand. 

Note for those so interested, their name is actually D.O.C. and stands for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata" (DOC) ("Controlled Denomination of Origin") which is Italy's equivalent of France's AOC - Appellation  D'Origine Controlee or America's AVA's for American Viticultural Area. The Italian DOC, like the other Appellation designations, are a defined geographic area and its designated production for wines produced from grapes grown in that area and includes specifications for the varieties that can be used, the minimum alcohol content, the maximum yield, and the specifications for aging.

The Reserve wine flight featured three bold expressive concentrated wines at the top of the range of styles from light to big and bold. Two of three of the wines were our favorite and most oft selected wines, Syrah and Cabernet, while the third was a Tempranillo, in which we rarely imbibe.

We've dined there often and tonight's experience rated as the most enjoyable ever. My Ahi tuna was wonderful and the wine flight scored highest over our previous encounters, even with one gaining lower marks. Lastly, during the summer months we will dine outside and always before we dined in the main dining room which tends to be dark. Tonight we dined in their 'Tasting Room' adjacent to the main dining room, behind the bar. This casual setting with the large fireplace and couches, and our table adjacent the large windows was most comfortable and pleasant.

The American centric wine selection is extensive with the actual wine list spanning ten pages - more than twenty each of American Pinot Noirs, California Chardonnays and Cabernets including popular and favored selections Robert Craig, Caymus, Silver Oak, David Arthur Elevation, Keenan, Cakebread, Darioush and Lakoya. They also offer half bottles and an extensive selection of wines BTG - by the glass. The wine prices tend to be a bit expensive, slightly more than 2x retail for bottle selections, and by the glass, and the Wine Flights are too, based on the amount of wine served for the price point. These are price points of elegant fine dining restaurants and one would hope to find more value in a casual bistro wine bar. Never-the-less, it does allow a broad selection of choices, BTG, and a series of wine flights, three different wines for about the cost of one and a half glasses, so its a good choice if one's objective is a tasting experience over a single glass of wine.

Tonight's flight -

For precision and the record, note that since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the labels of these featured selections and I know the producer's offer several labels of each of these wines. I did search for the bottles in their display case but didn't see any of these that we selected.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

While not a 'premium' label based on the plethora and range of high end Napa cabs these day, the Montelena Napa selection is certainly a legendary highest quality label for the category. Most notably, its rare to find such a quality offering BTG - by the glass, except in the most serious or high end wine bars or wine oriented restaurants. Note there are two different Montelena Napa labels, one 'Estate' and one designated 'Calistoga'. I admit I didn't ask to see the label so I am not certain which one this was but I suspect it is the 'non-estate' label. (The term 'Estate' means that all the grapes in the product were sourced from the producer's property. The lack of the term, allows for grapes purchased from other growers to be included.)

Blend: 85.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 0.5% Petit Verdot.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth and polished so approachable and ready to drink now for enjoyable casual sipping, almost sophisticated and complex enough for serious dining, black cherry and dark plum fruits with tones of smoke, tobacco, licorice and hint of cedar.


RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2197970

Basel Cellars Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2013

Once again I didn't ask to see the label (which I normally do) so I am attributing my notes to their estate label. While their winelist and flight card specify Walla Walla, Oregon, I believe this is in error and they mean Walla Walla Valley in Washington. 

Garnet colored, medium bodied, blackberry fruits with tones of leather and cured meat, hints of pepper, smoke, earth and floral.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2166361

Martinez Bujanda Viña Bujanda Crianza Rioja, Spain

Once again, since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the label of this feature and I know they offer several labels of this varietal.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, more modest less expressive blackberry fruits with a layer of tobacco, smoke, tar and hints of clove spice.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2494741

http://www.docwinebarchicago.com/lombard/

Elan Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon

Elan Vineyards Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

This is one of the last bottles of a case we acquired from the producer upon release. At twenty years of age, while showing its age, this wine is drinking well and showing a character and profile that I favor.

This was a deliciously perfect compliment to Linda's dinner preparation of teriyaki marinated grilled flank steak with sweet potato mashed and peas (pictured below). It might have even better with her chocolate mousse with fresh raspberries and fresh whipped cream (also shown below).

We met the winemaker and producer Patrick and his wife Linda Elliott-Smith at their host winery crush facility during our Napa Wine Experience trip back in 1998 (shown pictured above with us - all at and looking twenty years younger!).

Elan was one of the 'Undiscovered Dozen' producers featured in a Wine Spectator article of the time featuring the hot merging California Cabs (Wine Spectator, December 15, 1997, "An Undiscovered Dozen - New names in Cabernet to try before they're too hot"). We sought out and met with many of them and collected the foundation of our cellar collection of Napa Cabernets during numerous Napa trips between 95 and 2k - Elan, Del Dotto, Robert Craig, Clark-Claudon, and Snowden, to mention a few.

According to my Wine Journal Index, I have published twelve tasting notes of this release going back to when I started in 2003, and our Cellartracker inventory shows we still hold five remaining bottles.

We acquired more about a dozen vintages of this wine during the era and still hold several bottles each vintages from '92 through 2001 to 2004. At five years younger, I would say the '01's are at their prime, the apex of their drinking window now. At twenty, the black berry fruits of the '96 are starting to give way to tobacco leaf and cigar box, leaving a tantalizing enjoyable after taste of a fine cigar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, starting to show its age, but not suffering from the diminution, flavors of black berry, black currant, and black cheery turn to tones of spice, leather and smoky oak, and that tobacco leaf cigar box with moderate fine tannins on a long finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=145048

Grilled flank steak - teriyaki marinate,
sweet potato mash and peas.

Chocolate mousse, fresh raspberries, whipped cream.

Cliff Lede Napa Stags Leap Sauvignon Blanc

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Stags Leap District Sauvignon Blanc 2009
 

We took this with us to New York and enjoyed it in the hotel room for easy casual sipping. At seven years of age, this reminds me why this label is one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs - a varietal that is most true to its origins, and least subject to adulteration or enhancement in the wine making. This is still bright and vibrant at an age that would nominally be considered at the end of the drinking window for most wines from this varietal.
Our visit and tasting at the Cliff Lede Stag's Leap District Vineyard & Winery was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2009.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced acidity with amazing aromas and flavors of peach predominate with tones of citrus, hints of passion fruit and mango on a tangy moderate finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=869100

Murray's Cheese - and wine too

Cheese, Murray's Cheese ... and some wine too ...

Enjoying a get-away weekend with son Ryan and daughter-in-law Michelle, visiting son Alec in NYC, we dined at Murray's Cheese Bar in Greenwich Village, one of his favorite haunts. The eatery is a few doors down Bleecker Street, from the legendary cheese retailer and wholesaler. As in earlier adventures there, we left it to the 'Cheese Monger' to select our cheese flight - one of five and one of eight different cheeses or meats.

Each cheese meat combination is paired with a sauce, spread or associated delectable accompaniment such as a orange marmelaide or a pistachio paste, both shown below.

The presentation of the cheese plates by the Cheese Mavin servers was masterful, poetic, professional and informative, a performance deserving of more attention and respect and worthy of an ovation! Following the cheese meat plates came Mussels in white wine broth, grilled Kale sprouts, and Lamb meatballs in a tomato fennel sauce and feta cheese.

For pairing, we selected three wines from Murray's winelist, one white and two reds. For the white, there's always room for a bubbly, a sparkling wine, we selected Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant, a Chenin Blanc based wine from the Vouvray in the Loire Valley in Northern France.

Chenin Blanc is not normally associated with sparkling wine, the specialty and province of Champagne in France, rather the incredibly versatile grape is used across the range of dry whites, to semi-sweet to luscious sweet wines.

This version of sparkling wine is considerably less expensive than a Champagne of equivalent quality.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Cuvée Huet Brut 2010

This was light, straw colored, crisp and minerally with a bouquet and flavors of floral, peach, ripe pear and sweet spice giving way to almond and a layer of yeast that came across as a bit pasty that diminished the fruits.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1413192






Laurent Betton Saint-Joseph Syrah 2013, Rhone Valley, France

The tangy acid was a nice accompaniment to the hearty bold cheeses and meats.

Son Ryan favors and drinks a lot of these Northern Rhone Valley Syrahs. This was much lighter than those we are accustomed to drinking, from the Rhone Valley, or Syrahs we get from Australia or even California.

This was ruby colored, medium light bodied, crisp bright acidity with black berry fruits, tones of black pepper and a layer of graphite creosote with a tangy spicy finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2112330


La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2010, Tuscany, Italy 

This bigger bolder more complex and concentrated wine rounded out our flight with a different style and character that matched the boldest and most forward cheeses, and the meats in the tasting.

This was ideally paired with the Lamb meatballs in tomato fennel sauce. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium full bodied,  complex, concentrated layers of rather subdued dried blackberry and black cherry, tones of smoke, leather, tobacco and hints of cedar spicy oak and graphite on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

This was so good, we ordered a second bottle! 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2104005

http://www.murrayscheesebar.com/

A highlight of the weekend was seeing Alec's new apartment with its spectacular views from Midtown to the financial district, shown below.

Murray Cheese Selection

Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz

Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz (Syrah) 2008

For a hearty big bold wine to accompany left over grilled steak and some hearty cheese to watch the Cubs play game four of the baseball NLDS (and their miraculous ninth inning comeback!), I pulled this Ben Schild Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz.

Earlier I had run to the store to pick up some Smoked Gouda Cheese which was perfect for the occasion and set the stage for the grilled steak, both perfectly complemented by this wine. I write often in these pages about the synergy of effectively pairing food with wine for optimal enjoyment and tonight was such the case.

There was a reason I picked up a case of this wine upon release and its profile and suitability for this type of drinking was it. While we enjoy big bold concentrated forward fruit, many such Syrahs (aka Shiraz) also have tones of metallic graphite or camphor. While I find this is not my preference, the body weight and big fruit matched with meat, cheese or chocolate is one of my favorite wine tasting experiences.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes. The colour of the Reserve was deep dark Ruby Red and inky purple. Huge aromas of black and blue fruits and violets give way to bright vibrant concentrated tongue coating flavors bursting with blueberry, black raspberry, ripe plum and chocolate, with tones of cedar, camphor, black pepper, spice, a bit of graphite, turning to nicely integrated oak on a long lingering tannin finish.

I would rate this higher were it not for that somewhat obtuse layer of non-fruit graphite, cedar and camphor.
RM 92 points.

When writing about this wine, I feel compelled to digress to talk about the producer and some of his past marketing practices.

This wine is dedicated to the producer patriarch Ben Schild who has been farming the Schild Estate Three Springs property in Rowland Flat Barossa since 1952. Today the property is farmed by second and third generation Schilds. Fruit for this wine is sourced from a single vineyard in the Hills overlooking Lyndoch where the elevated location and cooling winds helped temper the effects of a warm year resulting in earlier ripening thereby avoiding a late season heat wave that afflicted other growers in the Southern Barossa.

The remarkable interesting side note about Schild; this is not the same wine but it is the same producer and vintage as the Schild Barossa Shiraz that after receiving high reviews, 94 points, and placing in Wine Spectator’s Top 10 Wines of the Year in 2010, naturally subsequently quickly sold out. Schild then proceeded to purchase, blend and bottle additional wine from other producers, but still market such under the 'same' label. Extraordinary, unethical, deceptive, conniving, creative, but legal, none-the-less.

(Imagine buying a new Ford but finding out Ford ran low on engines and purchased and provided alternative replacement engines from some other supplier. (See Bait and Switch?; Schild Estate: Questionable Bottling Practices in 2008 Shiraz; What Makes a Wine a Wine?).

Only after being challenged by reporters did the winery affix an extra label to the secondary bottlings identifying them as a second blend.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1386115

http://schildestate.com.au/ben-schild-reserve-shiraz

Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot 2004

Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot 2004

The question I get asked most often about wine is, what are good values in quality wines? Northstar Merlot is such a value. While many $20-25 wines of the millenium have since doubled or even tripled in price,  Northstar have maintained their price point resulting in a high QPR (quality price ratio) Bordeaux varietal.

I pulled this twelve year old from the cellar to taste with grilled steak dinner. As soon as I pulled the cork the room filled with bright berry fruit and floral aromas. Our Cellartracker records show we hold seven different vintages of this label from the era so it was a great surprise and joy when this greatly exceeded my expectations, rewarding me for the investment, and promising more pleasant drinking to come.


Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot 2004

Its hard to believe its been five years since my previous tasting of this wine was back in 2011 when I wrote, "Deep dark purple color - medium-full bodied - may be the most expressive Northstar I have had with full burst of black berry, plum and red currant flavors giving way to sweet oak, spice and subtle vanilla with nicely integrated firm but silky smooth tannins. Lots of fine sediment coats the empty bottle. Consistent notes with earlier tastings."

Such it was again tonight except I would add the floral aromatics perfume, the complexity was enhanced by nice balance and smooth silky tannins, highlighted by tones of anise and hints of mocha, much like a left bank Bordeaux, that was not recorded in earlier tastings.  It says a lot about the curve of the drinking window for this wine that seems to be outstanding in its twelfth year.

My 92 point rating for this wine is the highest on record for this label, and a great value at under $30 for a Bordeaux varietal. It also speaks much to the quality of such wines coming from the Columbia Valley in Washington State.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=408341

https://www.northstarwinery.com/

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Liparita Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

For a weekend of wine, cheese, grilled steaks and sports on the TV, I pulled a casual sipping serious drinking vintage Napa Cabernet. We discovered Liparita wines during our mid-nineties trips to Napa when we attended barrel tastings at the Oakville crush and storage facility with Gove Celia, winemaker at the time. I think that that Liparita is totally unrelated to the current era label of the same name. This is one of the last remaining bottles that we hold from that era. This was ideal with grilled steak dinner with mashed potatoes and brie cheese plate.

At sixteen years of age, this bottle is likely nearing the end of its prime drinking window although it isn't showing any serious diminution yet. Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, black fruits are overtaken by a layer of earth, creosote and smoke with hints of black olive, intermixed with tones of black cherry turning to a tangy layer of tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=75542

 

Home-made Michael Schwartz wines highlight wine dinner

Home-made Michael Schwartz wines highlight wine dinner

For a customer/business partner dinner, we hosted a special dinner at Vinifera Wine Bistro at the Westin Hotel in Reston, VA. Business partner and colleague Michael Schwartz brought two bottles of special home vinted wine from his private cellar to serve BYOB at the dinner. As a wine aficionado and wine snob extraordinaire I was intrigued by the prospects of trying Mike's wine, but I admit my expectations were very low. I couldn't imagine a home produced wine with grapes or juice sourced from a commercial supplier being any good, let alone being sophisticated serious wine! Wow, what a surprise. Well done, Mike! Both wines were hits of the evening, actually overshadowing a special reserve Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal that I brought from home for the occasion.  

For the opening wine in the flight, Mike served his own Pinot Noir.  I write often in these pages about how difficult it is to find a moderately priced high QPR Pinot Noir. This was an amazing wine discovery! 

Odd Couple Winery, Michael Schwartz Home-vinted Lodi, Ca (Bottled at Lewisboro Valley New York) Pinot Noir 2010

This wine was produced by Mike in collaboration with fellow winemaker John Vuolo who has since gone on to found South Salem Winery, in South Salem, NY.

Ruby colored, moderately opaque, light bodied, this was a full forward brilliant vibrant fruit bomb with full flavored dusty rose, cranberry and red berry fruit flavors, bursting with tangy cinnamon spice - nicely balanced, polished, concentrated and complex, turning to a tangy tongue coating tannin finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2489858







Michael Schwartz Home-vinted Chateau Schwartz Italian Corvina (Bottled at Lewisboro Valley New York) Amarone 2008 

Like the Pinot above, this wine also blew me away with its relative balance and polish. This was the favorite of several of the diners at our dinner. 

Dark inky colored, full bodied, full concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits flavors with tones of raisin, black cherry, smoke, creosote and hints of fig with a modest tannin finish. Lacking a core or structured backbone, otherwise this might have been as much a blockbuster surprise as the Pinot, impressive none-the-less.

RM 87 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2489882





Robert Keenan Winery Mailbox Vineyard Special Reserve Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Merlot 2004

For fun and to honor friend and business associate and one of our dinner guests, I brought this special namesake wine, a vineyard designated Napa Valley Reserve Merlot from Robert Keenan Winery, high atop Spring Mountain.

This wine had special significance for the evening, being the namesake for one of our guests, and it was discovered and sourced at the winery during  our 2007 visit there with colleague, business partner and friend AJ during one of our many Napa Wine Experiences together. I served one of these labels at a special holiday dinner a few years back, and gifted one to this friend as well. All the bottles mentioned, including tonight's bottle were in Magnum format.

Served last, this was appropriate in the tasting order as it was big forward concentrated fruit, even for a Merlot. At a dozen years of age, this bottle is just hitting its stride.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, smooth polished and nicely balance, blackberry and black raspberry fruits accented by tangy cherry notes, tones of cinnamon spice, cedar, tea and tobacco leaf with hints of anise, creosote and smoke.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=630922

https://www.keenanwinery.com/

http://southsalemwinery.com/

http://www.viniferabistro.com/

Pride Mountain Cabernet 1997 and Cantenac Brown Margaux 2000

Pride Mountain Cabernet 1997 and Cantenac Brown Margaux 2000

Tasting vintage wines with properly paired food accentuates the whole tasting experience. Comparing two wines enhances the experience even further where such a comparison illuminates and highlights the subtle nuances of the character and, style of diverse wines. Such was the case when I was invited over to son Ryan's for Friday night grilled steak dinner. I took a '97 vintage Pride Mountain Napa Cabernet to pair and compare with the 2k Cantenac Brown Margaux he pulled from his cellar.

Château Cantenac Brown Margaux Bordeaux 2000 

Stark contrast in the diverse styles as this Margaux was more moderate, subdued and polished than the obtuse, more forward, brighter and bolder Napa Cab. Both were ideal complements to the grilled beef steaks, asparagus and squash.

Decanted for an hour before it started to open and reveal floral tones and dark berry fruits. Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth polished and nicely balanced in its moderately subdued black berry fruits accented by floral, earth, tones of creosote, tea, tobacco and hint of smoke on a long soft silky tannin finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5486




Pride Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 

We first tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to the estate vineyards and winery high atop Spring Mountain during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999. Since that time, after tasting in the early ensuing years, we've held on to those wines waiting for them to age, open and mature to the optimum time to reveal their full potential. 

The 1997 Napa Cabernet vintage was much heralded at the time but struggled to live up to the hype in those early years when compared to adjacent vintages, until recently. In following years the much maligned 1998 vintage often outshone the '97 with their early drinkability. With time, now approaching its twentieth year, many of the 97 vintage wines are emerging to reveal their true potential. Such was the case tonight where this '97 Pride Napa Cab really shined. 

My tasting notes from back in '04 rated this an 89 relative to the Wine Spectator rating of 94 because it was tight and closed when I wrote, "Dark, firm and full bodied with forward currant, black cherry, and a hint of cedar. Big wine that needs more time to settle." 

Tonight, this shown similar characteristics, blackish garnet, full bodied, more open, complex, bright and vibrant than as described in earlier tastings, showing tones of leather, graphite, anise and spice with hints of mocha before turning to a tangy gripping tannin finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=96717

Home-made Michael Schwartz wines highlight wine dinner

Home-made Michael Schwartz wines highlight wine dinner

For a customer/business partner dinner, we hosted a special dinner at Vinifera Wine Bistro at the Westin Hotel in Reston, VA. Business partner and colleague Michael Schwartz brought two bottles of special home vinted wine from his private cellar to serve BYOB at the dinner. As a wine aficionado and wine snob extraordinaire I was intrigued by the prospects of trying Mike's wine, but I admit my expectations were very low. I couldn't imagine a home produced wine with grapes or juice sourced from a commercial supplier being any good, let alone being sophisticated serious wine! Wow, what a surprise. Well done, Mike! Both wines were hits of the evening, actually overshadowing a special reserve Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal that I brought from home for the occasion.  

For the opening wine in the flight, Mike served his own Pinot Noir.  I write often in these pages about how difficult it is to find a moderately priced high QPR Pinot Noir. This was an amazing wine discovery! 

Odd Couple Winery, Michael Schwartz Home-vinted Lodi, Ca (Bottled at Lewisboro Valley New York) Pinot Noir 2010

This wine was produced by Mike in collaboration with fellow winemaker John Vuolo who has since gone on to found South Salem Winery, in South Salem, NY.

Ruby colored, moderately opaque, light bodied, this was a full forward brilliant vibrant fruit bomb with full flavored dusty rose, cranberry and red berry fruit flavors, bursting with tangy cinnamon spice - nicely balanced, polished, concentrated and complex, turning to a tangy tongue coating tannin finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2489858







Michael Schwartz Home-vinted Chateau Schwartz Italian Corvina (Bottled at Lewisboro Valley New York) Amarone 2008 

Like the Pinot above, this wine also blew me away with its relative balance and polish. This was the favorite of several of the diners at our dinner. 

Dark inky colored, full bodied, full concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits flavors with tones of raisin, black cherry, smoke, creosote and hints of fig with a modest tannin finish. Lacking a core or structured backbone, otherwise this might have been as much a blockbuster surprise as the Pinot, impressive none-the-less.

RM 87 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2489882





Robert Keenan Winery Mailbox Vineyard Special Reserve Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Merlot 2004

For fun and to honor friend and business associate and one of our dinner guests, I brought this special namesake wine, a vineyard designated Napa Valley Reserve Merlot from Robert Keenan Winery, high atop Spring Mountain.

This wine had special significance for the evening, being the namesake for one of our guests, and it was discovered and sourced at the winery during  our 2007 visit there with colleague, business partner and friend AJ during one of our many Napa Wine Experiences together. I served one of these labels at a special holiday dinner a few years back, and gifted one to this friend as well. All the bottles mentioned, including tonight's bottle were in Magnum format.

Served last, this was appropriate in the tasting order as it was big forward concentrated fruit, even for a Merlot. At a dozen years of age, this bottle is just hitting its stride.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, smooth polished and nicely balance, blackberry and black raspberry fruits accented by tangy cherry notes, tones of cinnamon spice, cedar, tea and tobacco leaf with hints of anise, creosote and smoke.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=630922

https://www.keenanwinery.com/

http://southsalemwinery.com/

http://www.viniferabistro.com/

Freemark Abbey Howell Mtn Merlot - Snowden Napa Cab

Freemark Abbey Howell Mtn Merlot and Snowden Napa Cab Anchor Angeli's Italian Dinner

For a wine dinner gathering with friends, Bob & Gloria, and Bill & Beth C, we dined at Angelis Italian our neighborhood trattoria. Bill and I brought a couple of bottles BYOB - Bill brought a select Freemark Abbey Howell Mountain Merlot to pair with my vintage '97 vintage release of Snowden Napa Cabernet, which I brought to follow the current '13 single vineyard release tasted yesterday at Vin Chicago.

Bill and I both hold significant collections of Freemark Abbey and Bill is a long-time wine club member with numerous special limited release labels such as this Howell Mountain Merlot bottling. Visiting the winery and touring their cellar/library was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience 09.

Freemark Abbey Howell Mountain Merlot 2010

Bill brought from his cellar this is a limited release bottling only available to wine club members.

The Howell Mountain fruit pops out and stands big for a Napa Merlot - dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, bright forward concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits accented by a layer of mocha with hints of earth, cassis and tobacco.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1679410







Snowden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

As stated yesterday in these pages we hold several vintages of the early releases of Snowden from their inaugural release back in 1993 through 2001. I pulled this '97 to taste and compare to the current release tasted yesterday at Vin Chicago. 

At seventeen years, this was tight and focused. Much like that recent single vineyard designated release, this was blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, but with somewhat subdued concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with tones of tangy clove spice, hints of graphite, black olive and truffles, turning to a long lingering clinging tannin finish, holding a long after taste of moderate oak.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=226666

Vin Chicago Saturday Tasting Features Big Red Diverse Styles

Vin Chicago Saturday Tasting Features Big Red Diverse Styles

I've written often in these pages about the Saturday afternoon wine tastings at Chicagoland wine merchant Vin Chicago. Today's flight featured a selection of Big Red's with diverse styles. Unlike the typical popular distributor tabletop tastings set up in local merchants, Vin Chicago features a selection from their inventory with highlights of quality and even premium labels, with serving duties shared by staff rotation. It's started to become routine to check out the Saturday Tasting lineup on their website blogpost each week. Today's flight featured four popular premium Reds with diverse styles, some premium champagnes, and a top flight Sauterne dessert label. 

The occasion for this special selection was the 30th Anniversary of the opening of their first flagship store on Elston Avenue in Chicago - the precursor to todays' Vin Chicago with four stores throughout Chicagoland including our hometown of Naperville. In addition to the premier tasting, they also offered over 100 wines at special anniversary discount pricing.

The flight included: 

• Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 
• Silver Oak Cellars Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
• Chateau Troplong Mondot St. Emillion 2012
• Snowden "Brothers Vineyard" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
• Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2009

and a selection of quality Champagnes

• Etienne Doue "Cuvee Selection" Brut Champagne NV
• Billecart-Salmon "Brut Reserve" Champagne NV
• Vilmart "Grand Cellier" Brut Champagne NV

Ideally, I would've spent time sufficient to savor the entire selection but I focused solely on the Red's and the Sauterne. 

Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Another blockbuster from this legendary producer that is known for silky smooth easy drinking quality Napa Cabernets that are approachable at an early age that still have the potential for aging. Caymus has held this price point of this premium label for several years such that this offers good QPR for a premium consistent, dependable label. 

For anyone bewildered by the abundance of labels and wines in their local wine shop that are not certain what to buy for a quality bottle to drink, share, gift or serve, you can't go wrong with this label for any occasion. This was Linda's favorite.

This resembles their classic 2012 40th anniversary label that got 96 points from leading reviewers. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, silky smooth black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of sweet oak, mocha and hints of clove spice on a soft elegant polished finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2303395

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

Dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic Silver Oak signature profile - focused core (some might also translate this as single dimensional) of dark berry fruit with predominant mid-palate toasty oak that lingers on the finish. Minutes later hangs on the palate like a fine cigar. 

Silver Oak continues to enjoy an almost cult following. Unless you are just fixated and locked in to Silver Oak and that classic style, at $70 for the Alexander Valley label, and approaching $100 for the Napa Valley label, this price has crept up to a point that there are many producers that offer more for the money. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1932538




 
Château Troplong Mondot St Emilion Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 2012

We tasted this wine on release at the UGC Bordeaux North American release tour tasting in Chicago a year before last where this was one of the standouts of the 2012 vintage release. 

While it makes for an interesting comparison, and rounds a nicely a red tasting flight, its not quite a fair fight standing this more sophisticated and complex Merlot based Bordeaux blend up against the three Big Red focused fruit forward Napa Cabernets. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex more subdued black berry and black currant fruits with tones of charcoal, smoke, tobacco and tea with hints of anise turning to smooth gripping tannins on the polished lingering finish. This begs for a grilled steak to reveal the layers and complexity of the fruits from the blend.

Blend of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1603299

Snowden Brothers Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
 

We've been fans of Snowden since their inaugural vintage release back in 1993. We still hold several bottles from those earliest 1994, 95 and 96 vintage releases that we acquired on release directly from the producer. We met and featured Randy Snowden at some of wine producer dinners during our Napa Valley excursions from that era. Those Estate Cabernets evolved into a lineup of a second label (Lost Vineyard of which we still hold a couple bottles of a case we acquired from the '97 vintage), the Estate label, and then a Reserve label. 

The flagship Reserve Cabernet is being replaced by series of single-vineyard designated wines from Snowden's estate vineyard which lies on the border of the St. Helena and Rutherford AVAs  adjacent to Hall's Sacrashe vineyard, which is just above their magnificent Rutherford winery, cave and tasting facility. They are also releasing small amounts of limited release bottling of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This label is a blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot which adds, body, structure and color.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, big bright vibrant full forward brash concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with tones of tangy clove spice, sweet oak, with hints of graphite and anise. It feels like this needs a couple years to settle. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2212462

Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2009

There is always room for 'stickies' ... sweet thick unctuous dessert wines - delicious and applicable to anti pasta pre-dinner course, with salads, with cheese, with dessert, or as a course by itself. This one is a classic - ready for drinking now, or aging for decades. At $48 for a 375 ml half bottle, its not for the average consumer every day sipping wine, rather for special occasions. Dessert wines can run from $4 to $400 - and every price point in between. I would say for the average palette, one won't find anything better and more enjoyable at any price, and you can find one for less. In any event, this one is delicious and enjoyable for many occasions. 

We tasted this wine at the UGC Bordeaux release tastings in Chicago.  

Light honey colored, full bodied, thick, tongue coating, chewy, almost syrupy, sweet honeyed fruit flavors of peach, mango, papaya, lychee, hints of apricots and sweet apples with tones of almond nut on a long mouth puckering lingering finish. Hold them for long term cellaring and watch them darken with age over the years or even decades.

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874037

http://vinchicago.com/

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet 1999

Constant Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain Vineyard 1999

Dining at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, L and I took this Napa Cab BYOB. Regretably, Angeli's upped their corkage fee to $20, a bit excessive for the suburbs. At that price, city venues offer premium wine services with knowledgeable trained wine staff, premium wine glasses, decanting, a wholly different wine experience. Sadly, as a result, we dine their less often and opt for seeking new adventurous venues.

Infinity pool adjacent the wine tasting cottage
overlooking Constant mountain vineyards.

Our visit to the Constant Diamond Mountain vineyard estate high atop Diamond Mountain was a highlight of our Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2011. The spectacular setting at the northern end of the Mayacamas Range above the town of Calistoga overlooks Napa Valley to the east and Sonoma Valley to the west. It is the said to be highest elevation vineyard in the area and is one of but a few properties that span both sides of the boundary line at the summit that separates the two Counties and geographic regions.

The historic property is among the oldest wineries in the valley with history dating back to the late 1800's.

Freddie Constant hosting our wine tasting at the estate.

The late Freddie Constant and wife Mary, and consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs produced Bordeaux style red blend wines. Sadly, colorful Freddie passed away since, and we think of him fondly and toast him each time we open one of his labels.

As is the norm in most of our dining experiences, our wine selection drove our dinner entree choices as we're firm believers in the overall dining experience being the matching of the food and wine. The synergies of properly paired wine with food amplifies the overall experience, the essence of the French who have made artwork of the craft.

For a hearty dark earthy fruit filled wine I chose Angeli's wonderful Pasta and Peas with its ground Italian sausage, while Linda chose the Eggplant Parmigiana. Both were ideal complements to the wine. For starters we both had Angeli's spectacular Boston Clam Chowder, still the standard bearer for such a dish anywhere. For fun, we ordered an entree of Angeli's delicious Butternut Squash Gnocchi as carry-out to take home for our dessert afterwards.

Back at home, we continued viewing the recently released season five of Longmire on Netflix. We've resisted binge-watching, but will finish the latest season episodes in one week of consecutive night viewing, none-the-less.

With the gnocchi, I pulled from the cellar a 375 half bottle of Cavalchina dessert wine, a perfect accompaniment to the sweet dessert which Linda served with a dollop of chocolate mouse. The entree size portion served both of us several evenings of such savory enjoyment.

Constant Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain Vineyard 1999

Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (92%, Cabernet Franc (6%) and Merlot (2%).

Aromas of floral berry fruit permeated the room as soon as the cork was extracted from the bottle.  Dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, black fruits were accented by subtle tones of earth, creosote and graphite with hints of pepper and spice. At various points, a whisper of mocha emerged over the course of the evening. The finish was smooth and elegant with soft silky tannins.

The emergence of the non-fruit layer might suggest the fruit is starting to give way as this seventeen year old vintage bottle starts to enter the later stage of life and end of its prime drinking window.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=43558

http://www.constantwine.com/



Calvalchina Bianca Del Veneto Passito 2004

We are about half way through a case of 24 half bottles we acquired of this wine for every day casual sipping, ideal for such occasions such as this evening.

Upon release the color of this wine was straw, then turned to butter, and over time has consistently darkened to honey color and it is now the hue of weak tea. It seems to have gotten a bit sweeter and brighter with age suggesting that it might be at its apex here at a dozen years of age.

Medium-full bodied, the apple fruits, subtle tangerine and hint of apricot and peach flavors have given way, overtaken by tones of burnt caramel, smoke and nut on a flavorful lingering finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=436980



http://www.angeliscatering.com

Etude Lyric Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2014

Etude Lyric Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2014

For a team meeting and planning session we all parachuted in to Columbus, Ohio for two days. In the evening, we had an informal causal pizza dinner at Dewey's Pizza. Dewey's promotes a selection of craft beers from the region and across the country. They have a minimal wine list of four reds and four whites offered by the glass (BTG). The reds selection features a cabernet, a red blend, a malbec and a Pinot. I tried the Pinot. Although I am not a big fan of Pinot, especially with pizza, I was intrigued by and interested to try this newly discovered label from Etude. The winelist described this as a California Central Coast Pinot Noir which didn't do it justice since this Lyric from Etude was from Santa Barbara County, a popular Pinot Noir varietal wine growing region.

Etude is based in the Carneros appellation, at the bottom of the Mayacamas Range that separates Napa and Sonoma Valleys, in the flatlands above San Pablo Bay. The area, with its milder micro-climate from the cool breezes and fog that roll in from the Bay is suitable for and known for Burgundy varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, rather than the Bordeaux varietals more typically associated with the warmer climes up in Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

Etude is known for Carneros Pinot's so it was interesting to find this secondary label from Santa Barbara County, near the cooling effects of the Pacific coast, another area known for and associated with Pinot Noir.

This provides reasonable QPR for a pleasant casual sipping Pinot Noir that is difficult to find in the sub $20 price point. According to on-line merchants, this is generally available in the $20-25 range.

This was ruby colored and light bodied, lacking in aromatics or distinguishable nose and that classic dusty rose of more sophisticated Pinots, this had moderate flavors of cherry and raspberry fruits with tones of subdued cinnamon and spice with soft tannins on the moderate finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2191962

Lewis Ethan's Syrah BYOB at Jack's Steak House Bloomington, Illinois

Lewis Ethan's Syrah BYOB at Jack's Steak House Bloomington, Illinois

Traveling this week through Bloomington, Illinois, we dined at Jim's Steak House and took BYOB the latest vintage release of Lewis Ethan's Syrah, one of our favorite labels from one of our favorite producers. Named for the grandson of Indy racecar driver Randy Lewis, we collect this, their line of Cabernets, and their oldest grandson namesake Alec's Blend, also the name of our youngest son. With the Laverne and Shirley-esque 'L' moniker on the label, this has become somewhat of a signature wine for our family with our family lineup of Linda, Erin Leigh, Lucy (grand-daughter) and namesake Lucy (grand-mother), and the Long family heritage.

Jim's Steak House is a welcome discovery in Bloomington, a regular destination for my business travels where I've been stymied in finding a nice fine dining establish in the tertiary city, until now.

Jim's is a classic midwestern steak house with a focused menu featuring dry aged beef and a selection of seafood entrees. A bit dated and showing its age, it has a somewhat awkward interior layout, but the food was good and the service hospitable, friendly and professional. Its ideal for a business dinner, upscale casual dining or a special occasion dinner outing - 'big city' dining experience in the heartland.  There are also Jim's locations in Peoria which I will look forward to visiting.

My New York strip was perfectly prepared in my favored 'Pittsbugh' style, and the dinner salad, potato and side of creamed spinach were appropriately prepared, presented, and were satisfying. Linda's black and blue steak salad was a bit disappointing with less the crisp fresh lettuce and a lesser mediocre cut of skirt or round steak.

A limited basic winelist offers a selection of generally available American wines from the range of core varietals at standard prices. Their hospitable corkage policy allowed us to pick up this feature label and try the latest release of a favorite label. The Lewis Syrah was a perfect accompaniment to our steak dinner.

Lewis Cellars Ethan's Napa Valley Syrah 2013

Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated core of black and blue fruits give way to a layer of vanilla, spice, and a hint of what Lewis calls 'bacon fat', and a bit of alcohol heat that softens over the course of the evening, finishing with tongue coating tannins. Lacked graceful staying power as it was a bit flabby the next day, but delicious initially after given time to settle.

RM 92 points.

http://cellartracker.com/w?2163857

http://www.lewiscellars.com/

http://www.jimsbloomington.com/