Christmas dinner offers medley of festive wines

Christmas dinner offers medley of festive fine wines - old world, new world ... Left Bank, Right Bank ...

The tree was trimmed, the stockings were hung on the fireplace, and the house was decorated and lit up as the entire family gathered for a festive Christmas celebration and dinner. In all, there were twenty-six of us assembled for the gala festivities. 

 This is how we imagined our house decorated for Christmas ! ! ! In reality it looked like this ....

Linda prepared a Bone-in Prime Rib and Beef Tenderloin with Beef Bourgogne sauce, mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables and haricot verts, and cranberry fruit jello. 

The kids brought an extensive cheese and charcuterie board, shrimp cocktail and a selection of Christmas cookies. 

The gala provided an opportunity to open a broad medley of wines and Champagnes. 

For the cheeses and charcuterie and salad courses, and to celebrate the recent birth of grand-daughter Millie to Alec and Vivianna, we opened a birthyear vintage Champagne.

Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 1990

The House of Delamotte is the fifth-oldest Champagne house in the historic wine region, founded in 1760 and is the little sister winery to the legendary House of Salon producing just 25,000 cases annually, and are both run by Didier Depond. The two wineries sit side-by-side in the heart of the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger to the south of the village of Epernay. 

This vintage Delamotte is made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. Winemaker notes - Delamotte Blanc de Blancs exhibits absolute purity, with the vinification process taking place in stainless steel tanks. Blanc de Blancs is a mineral champagne, with a chalky sensation achieved by a modest addition of reserve wine (10% maximum). This particular note is the very essence of the Delamotte vineyard and its Chardonnays, which grow in a pure chalk soil. The wines tend to be a little austere when young, which they manage by allowing maturation on the lees – far longer than the statutory fifteen months – extended to four or five years before disgorgement. Ageing after disgorgement continues to perfect the finesse and elegance of the final cuvée.

This vintage release was awarded 95 points by Wine Spectator, Ranked #15 Top 100 Wines of 1998 and Highly Recommended, 92 points by Wine Advocate, and 91 points by International Wine Cellar.

Its always a risk to hold vintage wine, and moreso for Champagne, for long term cellaring and aging, in this case, collecting birthyear wines to served at special occasion such as this. Upon opening, the bottle didn't 'pop' from the release of pressure as is customary with sparkling wine. We were worried it was gone, having lost its effervescence, but, in the end, it was very approachable and tasty for memorable and enjoyable drinking.  

Wine Spectator said, "Mouthfilling and wonderfully flavorful but not overpowering, blends abundant ripe fruit flavors with a subtle mousse and weaves great complexity with an elegant restraint. Like a classic Meursault that sparkles." 

Wine Advocate called it "'other-worldly' exquisite, loaded with leesy, wheat thin, buttery flavors, exceptionally complex, rich flavor, yet oh so delicate and light. It seems obvious that the quality of the 1990 Champagne vintage is going to be remarkable."

International Wine Cellar said, "Complex, smoky aromas of lemon, spring flowers, minerals, marzipan and spices; like a grand cru white Burgundy. Vibrant and ripe, with beautifully integrated acidity and superb flavor intensity. Big but fine. The palate-cleansing aftertaste features a note of caraway seed. "

One fellow Cellertracker, ThompsonandFrench held this same vintage until Christmas last year and on 12/27/2022 had a similar experience noting, "Initially tasted like it was over & wld last for 10 mins tops, but give it those 10 mins, and it become heaven! Limited sparkle, rich and delicious. Moorish - very." He 'Liked' it and gave it 95 points.

After settling this was delightful, mature but complex and tasty, we gave it 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=572333

https://www.champagne-delamotte.com/en/

We then moved from the 'old world to new world' and opened this American sparkler ....  

King Estate Willamette Valley Brut Cuvee Sparkling Wine 2016

King Estate is a 1033 acre vineyard complex and state of the art winery situated atop the rolling slopes in the Coast Range foothills, near the southern end of Oregon's Willamette Valley producing Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. King Estate also has an innovative culinary program.

Willamette Valley’s cool climate is ideal for growing fruit that is well suited for sparkling wine. The 2016 King Estate Brut Cuvée was four years in the making and eight years since they last produced a sparkling wine.

Winemaker Notes - A luxurious nose awakens the senses with aromas that carry through to the palate: bruised apple, lemon and flowers along with toast, biscuit, fresh bread, slate and walnut. Tiny bubbles create an excellent mousse followed by bright and fresh acidity that rounds out nicely on the mid-palate. Stark and yet elegant acidity on the finish provides backbone with a complexity that lingers.

This is a Blend of 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Chardonnay, mostly estate sourced by also from neighboring growers within the Willamette Valley AVA, the fruit was predesignated for the sparkling program based on how it ripened.

Winemaker Tasting Notes - "A luxurious nose awakens the senses with aromas that carry through to the palate: bruised apple, lemon and flowers along with toast, biscuit, fresh bread, slate and walnut. Tiny bubbles create an excellent mousse followed by bright and fresh acidity that rounds out nicely on the mid-palate. Stark and yet elegant acidity on the finish provides backbone with a complexity that lingers."

Light, crisp and refreshing. RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3784770

https://kingestate.com/

We then moved to red wines, and in light of the beef entrees, we opted for pairing with blends with their increased complexity. We pulled from the cellar a couple of classic Bordeaux Grand Cru Classes', a Right Bank with its Merlot predominance, and a Left Bank with Cabernet Sauvignon focus. We also selected a selection from the new world, one in a right bank style and one left bank to compare with the aged mature old world offerings. 

Prior to the blends, for casual sipping we opened a favorite Napa Cabernet. 

Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Vérité "La Muse" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 1999

I written often in these pages about Jess Jackson (1930–2011) who founded what became one of the most successful family-owned wine companies in the world. Jackson’s lengthy career spanned more than 30 years in pursuit of his vision and passion to produce extraordinary wine from California’s best vineyards. Over the years Jackson Family Wines developed and acquired nearly forty iconic brands as the empire expanded beyond California Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties to Oregon, and beyond our borders to Australia, France, Italy, Chile and South Africa. 

The meteoric rise of Jess Jackson was chronicled in the book A Man and His Mountain, the story of self-made billionaire Jess Jackson and his pursuit of his dream to build a brand of premium varietal based wine for the mass market. His accomplishments over the ensuring two and a half decades exceeded all expectations achieving the art of the possible building a multi-billion dollar wine empire. I wrote about the book in these pages in this blogpost - Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

From the earliest days, Jackson had longed to create wines that would be just as good as the world’s best wines and was confident that the terroir in Sonoma County had that potential.

Jackson first met French Vigneron Pierre Seillan during a visit to France in the 1990s. A friendship developed between the Jackson family in California and the Seillan family in Bordeaux.  When Pierre Seillan visited California in 1997, he bought in to Jackson's vision to develop the potential of Sonoma County terroir and Vérité was born.

Pierre Seillan has spent the previous five decades perfecting his micro-cru philosophy to create world-class wines from diverse terroirs. He teamed with Jack to use the same approach to capture the unique expressions of Sonoma County that he applied in Bordeaux, and Tuscany in each vintage.

Seillan’s wine career began at Bellevue, his family's estate in Gascony, France, where he learned to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and several white varieties. Later he focused on Cabernet Franc at Château de Targé in the Loire Valley. Seillan then spent two decades in Bordeaux making wine at several châteaux across eight different appellations, where he discovered the distinctive nuances between various vineyard sites. He perfected his micro-cru approach to build elegant and complex architecture in  his wines that reflected their source sites.

Beginning in 1998, Pierre Seillan has crafted the wines of Vérité, joined by his daughter Hélène Seillan who stepped into the role of assistant winemaker at the estate.

Born in 1987, Hélène Seillan spent her childhood in both France and California, surrounded by family and friends for whom winemaking was as much a passion as it was a profession. Following in her father’s footsteps, Hélène pursued a career in winemaking and began splitting her time between Sonoma County and Saint-Émilion. Starting in 2006, she served as assistant winemaker for her father at the family’s Bordeaux estate, where she worked on all aspects of winery management showing the same talent, passion and ability as her father. Hélène studied Viticulture and Oenology at the Institut Rural de Vayres in Bordeaux.

Vigneron Pierre Seillan carefully crafts each blend of Vérité from the mosaic of more than 50 “micro-crus” across four Sonoma County appellations, each contributing its unique palette of aromatics, flavors, textures and structural elements he needs to craft the wines of Vérité. Each micro-cru is harvested and fermented separately, then aged in French Oak barrels of various custom toasts.

Seillan carefully tailors his winemaking techniques and oak regimens to the personality of each lot, providing him with hundreds of unique components he can use to create the architecture of the final blends of three distinctive labels of the Vérité portfolio, La Muse, La Joie and Le Désir.

La Muse is the label developed in the style of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, delivering the incredible depth and texture with a Merlot-based blend from the top micro-crus of eastern Sonoma County.

This 1999 release was the second vintage of this ultra premium producer label, it was composed of a blend of 89% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon (84% of the fruit from Sonoma and 16% from Napa).

It was rated 97 points by Wine Advocate and 93 points by Vinous.  

At twenty-four years, the label, foil and most importantly the cork were all in pristine condition. The wine was likely at its peak, but not likely to improve further with more age. 

Garnet colored, medium bodied, complex yet balanced, integrated, elegant and polished, soft and smooth black and red currant and plum fruits highlighted with notes of cedar, tobacco, expresso and hints of leather and forest floor turning to smooth fine and mildly sweet tannin. 

Robert Parker noted - "plush and vinous, seamless and energetic, in the mold of an old-style Pomerol. (Right Bank Bordeaux appellation)"

RM 92 points. 

Winemaker Notes - "This wine is noticeably denser and richer in texture than the 1998 Vérité. The wine retains a similar lineage with red and black fruit characters and a velvety texture. What one notices last is the broad finish that lingers on the palate." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421

https://www.veritewines.com/wine/la-muse/1999

https://twitter.com/verite_wines

https://www.jacksonfamilywines.com/

Melka "Métisse" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2003 

If you're selecting a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend, one can't get a more authentic representation than a label produced by French Bordeaux turned Napa winemaker Phillip Melka. 

I've written often in these pages about Phillip Melka and his Bordeaux heritage and experience, his Napa estate wines and his influences and collaborations across Napa Valley and beyond, including as a contributing winemaker in the Long Shadows Vintners Collection program. 

Melka CJ Napa Valley Cabernet BYOB at Carnivore & Queen

Long Shadows Duo Showcase Katy Business Dinner

Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016

Melka's influence even reaches here to Illinois where Phillip was the mentor for Eric White of Galena Cellars Vineyards and Winery in Galena, IL, whom we met during our stay in the estate guest house during a getaway holiday week.

Philippe grew up in Bordeaux, earned his degree in Geology at the University of Bordeaux and later his Master’s degree in Agronomy and Enology. His first wine job was at Château Haut Brion in Bordeaux. His first introduction to the Napa Valley came in 1991 as an intern with Christian Moueix, proprietor of Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux and Dominus in Napa Valley. Philippe came to Dominus to study soils – then spent a few years as a traveling winemaker and ultimately settled in the Napa Valley in 1994.

Melka Estates started with Philippe and Cherie Melka sourcing fruit for their first two labels, two wines  named in honor of their two children Chloe and Jeremy and Metisse. They have since grown to four collections, CJ (a red blend very approachable in its youth sourced from premium vineyards throughout the Napa Valley), Metisse (a word that means ‘blend of cultures’ with wines from the Napa Valley), Mekerra (from the property they own in Sonoma County) and Majestique (single vineyard wines from outside of the Napa Valley). As a footnote, one quickly realizes the affinity the Melka’s have for the letter ‘M’.

This 2003 Metisse, is a blend in the Left Bank Bordeaux style with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, sourced from the famed Madrona Ranch Vineyard. The 2003 is a Bordeaux blend based on 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, from Jim and Stephanie Gamble's Madrona Ranch vineyard located near Spottswood at the foot of Spring Mountain on the edge of the town of St Helena.  

This vineyard is located on the eastern side of Saint Helena, at the base of the Mayacamas where it is protected from the northern and western winds. This old river bench settles mostly large gravelly sediments and a small portion of thinner clay particles which explains why varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit verdot and Merlot were planted. This 3.5 acre estate is reminiscent of the Graves area of Bordeaux.

Winemaker's Notes - "The wine from this vineyard displays classic profile of gravelly soils characteristics; dark and red cherry layered with spices, the wine is perfume, seductive and refined."

"Bright medium ruby. Black plum, black cherry, caramel and violet on the nose. Sweet and round but high-pitched, with nicely integrated acidity lending freshness to the dark berry and licorice flavors. Finishes with fine tannins and excellent length. The 2004 Metisse is full ruby. Black plum, minerals and a hint of game on the slightly wild nose. Dense, silky and lush but with perfectly integrated acidity and a violet florality giving this rather claret-like wine a distinctly juicy character. Offers terrific subtle sweetness and finishes with outstanding persistence."

This label was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Int'l Wine Cellar.

Bottled in June 2005 after aging 19 months in 59 gallon French barrels, 75% new oak, 520 cases were released in the Spring of 2006. 

Winemaker's Notes - "This wine is a densely structured full bodied Cabernet with a deep red color. The aromatics are a mix of blackberry, tar and chocolate with floral overtones. The wine is rich with dark fruit flavors, possessing layers of complexity which give it such dimension and character. The finish is silky."

This may have been the WOTN - Wine of the Night, it was certainly my favorite of the evening being in the style that I prefer.

At twenty years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in ideal condition. This was likely at its apex although not likely to improve with further cellar aging.

Bright ruby colored, medium-full bodied, full round bright vibrant flavors of sweet plum, blackberry and black currants with notes of mocha, caramel and violets with hints of creosote on a smooth polished fine tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=199889

https://www.melkaestates.com/

https://twitter.com/MelkaEstates

Cos d'Estournel Grand Cru Classe St Estephe Bordeaux 1989

One of the classic historic Left Bank Bordeaux producers, we hold a dozen plus vintages of this label dating back to the 1979 which we featured in a blogpost below, including this 1989, and large format birth-year vintage bottles that we have served at family special events and celebrations as featured in these blogposts:

Family Celebration Dinner Features Birthyear Vintage Wine,

Birthyear vintage magnum Cos d'Estournel

Other posts featuring vintages of this label dating back to the 1979 vintage..

Pour Boys Impromptu Wine Dinner on the deck

OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

We visited the magnificent historic iconic Chateau Cos d' Estournel during our visit to the Medoc in the summer 0f 2018. Leaving the Pauillac town and appellation, driving past Chateau Lafite Rothschild, one crosses a miniscule creek leaving Pauillac and entering the St Estephe appellation. Rounding the bend and climbing the gentle hill, the iconic gate looms over the highway framing the historic Chateau, overlooking the estate vineyards across the road with the Lafite estate in the distance. 

Chateau Cos d’Estournel is a Second Growth Bordeaux from the Bordeaux classification of 1855. The estate is located on the border as one leaves Pauillac and enters St.-Estephe, adjacent to and looking across the vineyards at Chateau Lafite Rothschild. The historic iconic Chateau sits atop the hill and emerges in full view as one rounds the bend on the D4 route. According to the producer,  'Cos' means "the hill of pebbles".

Its oriental facade is adorned with three pagoda turrets, all cast in a soft golden sandstone. Chateau Cos d'Estournel today covers 170 acres separated from Chateau Lafite, along the southern edge, by the stream between St. Estephe and Pauillac. The chateau is surrounded by 160 acres of vineyards planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.

The gravelly soil, over a flint, limestone and silicate subsoil low in nitrogen, has eroded over centuries to form steep ridges which perfectly drain the vineyards. The vineyards are planted 60 percent in Cabernet Sauvignon vines, 2 percent of Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent in Merlot. Naturally, the percentage of Cabernet or Merlot in the composition of each vintage depends on the climate for that vintage which favors one grape variety or the other.

Founded in the 18th century by Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, the chateau’s wines were in demand all over the world from the 19th century. The chateau was bought and sold many times during the late 19th and 20th centuries, and in 2000 it was acquired by Michel Reybier, who has managed it and maintained it's excellence.

Robert M. Parker Jr. has noted that Cos d’Estournel “has been particularly successful in difficult vintages” and “remains impeccably managed.” Some 200,000 bottles of the signature Cos d’Estournel are produced each year. 

Our Cellartracker records indicate we still hold a half dozen vintages of this label from the eighties and nineties including a half case of this vintage release.

We acquired and have held this bottle in our cellar since release - the foil and label are like new, the cork was intact despite starting to saturate. Again, evidence our cellar conditions are suitable for decades aging fine wines. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker and his Wine Advocate, 94 points by  James Suckling, 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 18.5/20 points by Jancis Robinson. Parker was prescient when he projected to "Drink now-2025" back in 2010.

Garnet colored with a slight tinge of brown rust bricking, medium full bodied, complex, concentrated, rich black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of leather, tobacco, coffee, herbs, spice and hints of cedar with lush tannins and crisp acidity on a long aromatic finish.  

RM 93 points. 

Fellow Cellartracker'er Vinnut Reviewed and "Likes this wine" just last month and gave it 93 points. Reading his review, it was 100% consistent with out experience tonight, even down to the saturated yet intact condition of the cork. I respectfully repost his review here below which sums up perfectly our tasting this evening.

"Medium-dark garnet in color with slight clearing at the edges. Full, forward & fragrant nose of ripe fruit aromas of dark cherries, blackberries & cassis with overtones of classic cigar box notes of cedar & tobacco, leather, graphite, floral notes of violets, herbs, forest floor/loam, mushrooms, minerals, cocoa, tar & some sous-bois notes. Medium-full bodied with a very good concentration of well balanced & smooth textured, ripe fruit flavors of dark cherries, blackcurrants & cassis with herbs, mushrooms, minerals, coffee & a slight hint of oak/vanilla. Long lingering silky-smooth finish. Drinks quite well at present with decanting & airing. At 34 years of age, I doubt any further development would occur from additional aging, but it should hold here for another 4 to 5 years. Fill was in lower neck; cork was saturated 1/2 up but intact."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1624

https://www.estournel.com/en/ 

https://twitter.com/Cos_dEstournel 

Swithing from the Left Bank back to the Right Bank, another 1989 vintage Bordeaux .. 

Château Pavie Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1989

Château Pavie, situated on Saint-Emilion's limestone plateau and Pavie-Decesse is one of the "happy few” Saint-Emilion Grands Crus Classés. It is the Premier Grand Cru Classé flagship of the Perse family portfolio of estates that includes Saint-Emilion Châteaux Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte and Clos Lunelles in the Côtes de Castillon appellation.

All are managed by  owner Gérard Perse who move to Saint-Emilion in the early 1990s and purchased Château Pavie in 1998, followed a year later with the purchase of Grand Cru Classe Pavie Decesses.

The first Pavie vines were planted in Saint-Emilion on the "Pavie Hillside” south east of the town of Saint-Emilion, which previously grew red-fleshed peaches on the hills, a variety called "Pavie peaches” gave their name to the vineyard. Over time, peaches give way to vines.

The estate dates back to early owner Ferdinand Bouffard, a Bordeaux négociant, who inherited the Domaine de la Sable. Gradually, and over twenty years purchased the smaller neighboring vineyards of Pigasse, Chapus, Fayard and Dussaut to create a property of almost 125 acres which would become Château Pavie. Bouffard continued to vinify and sell each property's wine separately: Larcis-Bergey, Pavie-Pigasse, Pimpinelle, Clos Simard and La Sable.

Bouffard passed and the individual domaines continued through the First World War while awaiting a new owner when in 1919 they were acquired by Albert Porte. He sold Pavie-Pigasse which would become Pavie-Decesse, and united the other domaines to create the current Château Pavie.  

In 1943, Château Pavie was purchased by Alexandre Valette, a négociant from Saint-Ouen who already owned the neighboring vineyard of Troplong-Mondot. 

In the first Classification of Saint-Emilion wines in 1955, Pavie achieves the rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé "B”.

Jean-Paul Valette sold Château Pavie to current owners Gérard and Chantal Perse in 1998.

Château Pavie was promoted to the rank of Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé "A” in 2012.
Appellation

 

In 2001, Perse purchased the Château Bellevue-Mondotte property which is just several vines distant from Pavie and Pavie-Decesse, a 'little jewel' of but 5 acres in size, situated on excellent terroir at the summit of Saint-Emilion's famous limestone plateau. The second part of the Château 's name, reminiscent of its famous neighbours La Mondotte and Château Troplong-Mondot, became Château Bellevue-Mondotte's with exceptional terroir.

In 2001, Gérard Perse, already owner of the famous Château Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte, creates « Esprit de Pavie » A Bordeaux red wine.

The estate is planted to 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with an average age of the vines being 43 years. Annual production is 70 000 bottles.

Château Pavie has diverse terroirs: typical of the Saint-Emilion limestone plateau composed of clay-limestone soil on an asteriated limestone subsoil, located at an altitude of approximately 85 meters above the Dordogne River. The terroir is called "milieu de côte" (middle of the slope), located approximately 55 meters above the Dordogne and composed of very fine brown limestone. 

Today, Perse's daughter Angélique, along with son-in-law Henrique, and their two children, born in Saint-Emilion, live at the property.

Château Pavie Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1989

This release predates Gérard Perse's acquisition of the estate by almost a decade and does not quite match the highly acclaimed 1990 Pavie, but it continues to drink well. It was awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator and 17.5/20 points by Jancis Robinson.

Like the Cos above, at thirty-four years, the fill level, label, foil and importantly the cork, were all in pristine condition - the cork showing slight saturation but still integrally intact. This was past its apex but pleasant and still within its acceptable drinking window, but at a point where it will no doubt diminish from age here forward.

Garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, balanced, smooth but relatively simple blackberry fruits with notes of mushroom, tobacco, dusty rose and hints of milk chocolate with soft fine tannins and elegant texture on the moderate finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20878

https://www.vignoblesperse.com/en/chateau-pavie/home

https://twitter.com/Chateau_Pavie

 

Following dinner we opened several other festive bottles for sipping with deserts ... 

Madame de Beaucaillou 2018

Fluffy Billows Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Josh Phelps GW Steady State 2015

Merry Christmas!

Boys night features flight of ultra-premium Napa Cabernets

Boys night features flight of ultra-premium Napa Cabernets

Son Ryan invited brothers, dad and in-laws, in town for the holidays, over for a boys night of darts, ping-pong and pop-a-shot. He opened the evening serving a flight of ultra-premium Napa Cabernets.

Ryan served a selection of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

 

Hall Xzellenze Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. The 2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown below) got 100 points from  Robert Parker.

We tasted this wine recently in our Pour Boys holiday wine dinner so it was great to compare an earlier vintage of this classic Napa label - the flagship of Hall Wines. That release and another were featured in these pages' blogposts:

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/08/hall-rutherford-winery-estate.html 

Ryan has also visited the Hall Rutherford estate and has acquired a significant collection of Hall wines and several vintages of this super label. 

This earlier release was awarded 96 points by Wine Enthusiast and 93 points by Wine Spectator.

This is 100% Cabernet sourced from the Hall Estate Sacrashe Vineyard that surrounds the producer's home and sits above the Hall Rutherford Winery and Hospitality Center. This was a limited production barrel selection of only 420 cases.

 

We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the Sacrashe Vineyard, with hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.

A powerful expression, ripe and rich, with tiers of loamy earth, spice, currant, blackberry and herbal notes. Full-bodied, very tight and compact, ending with firm, fine-grained tannins and a touch of new saddle leather. blackberry jam, chocolate, olive and cedar flavors, it’s hard to not drain the bottle now. But it also shows fabulously rich tannins that suggest aging. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1023839

Continuing our flight of outstanding Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons ...

Cardinale Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Just last week at our Family Christmas dinner offering a medley of festive wines, we served another ultra-premium label from the extensive Jackson Family Wines portfolio of iconic brands.

I written often in these pages about Jess Jackson (1930–2011) who founded what became one of the most successful family-owned wine companies in the world. Jackson’s lengthy career spanned more than 30 years in pursuit of his vision and passion to produce extraordinary wine from California’s best vineyards. 

Here is another one of those labels, Cardinale Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, a small-production, limited-availability wine, highly sought after label.  

In 1983, Jess Jackson, proprietor of Kendall-Jackson Winery, decided to produce a world-class red Meritage wine. The name comes from the original Cardinale vineyard site at Kendall-Jackson's Lakeport winery. The wine is made predominantly of Cabernet Sauvignon blended with small amounts of Merlot and, in certain years, Cabernet Franc. 

The 2010 Cardinale is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, sourced from 100% Napa Valley hillside and mountain vineyard sites.  It was aged 20 months in 98% new French oak.

 

It was produced by winemaker Chris Carpenter who wrote: “An intriguing combination of dark fruits and spices. The blending of five mountain sub-appellations provided aromas of ripe boysenberry, dark cherry and dragon fruit. These fruits meld on the palate with holiday spice and Sumatra coffee bean characters. The wine is lush in mid-body texture and has a lingering finish.”

Winemaker Notes continue .... "The 2010 Cardinale reflects a vintage that challenged us and highlighted our dedication to producing a wine that defines the very best of Napa Valley in a way that impacts your palate like Coltrane's "A Love Supreme." The score is at once a classic of musical creation and a masterpiece with all of the subtly, grace and precision of a Mozart symphony, but with the charisma of complex Jazz. Following suit, the 2010 Cardinale is an intriguing combination of dark fruits and spices, opening with scents of ripe boysenberry and dark cherry that meld on the palate with holiday spices and Sumatra coffee bean flavors. The 2010 Cardinale has a lush, mid-body texture and a lingering finish."

This release was awarded 96 points from Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 92 points Int'l Wine Cellar and Stephen Tanzer, 91 points from Wine Spectator and 17/20 points by Jancis Robinson.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, intense, powerful and rich layers of dark red and black fruits with notes of mocha, cinnamon, cassis, earthy cedar and tobacco with hints of tar and graphite on a firm grippijng tannin laced lingering finish. 

 

RM 93 points. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1600225

https://www.cardinale.com/

Fleury 29  Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

I featured Brian and Claudia Fleury and their Fleury Napa Valley estate wines in thess pages back in 2018 in the blogpost Fleury Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Duo. I wrote about when we first met Brian and Claudia Fleury at a Del Dotto Estate Winery event (see below) back in 2002. From that meeting we acquired some Fleury Estate Lauren Bryce Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from what I believe was their inaugural vintage release. How surprising then and what fun to hear son Ryan speaking of this wine and about he and some of his buddy's acquiring some of the highly allocated select wine for their cellars. Fleury Estate Napa Cab is a favorite of him and several of his colleagues who have extensive collections of numerous releases of this label. 

Fleury Estate Winery owns 50 acres of premium vineyard land in different appellations and elevations that they note allow them to "craft consistent, high quality Napa Valley wines year after year". Their primary Fleury Estate Vineyard located in the heart of Napa Valley just south of St. Helena in Rutherford, is also home to the Fleury tasting room, winemaking facilities and 11 acre estate vineyard.  

 

They also own and manage 30 acres in the St Helena Vineyard, and six acre Howell Mountain Vineyard high up in Deerpark.

 

Their vineyards are planted to all the Bordeaux Varietals:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. 

Le Fleur 29 is sourced from the Fleury estate vineyard in the foothills above St Helena sitting at an elevation of 880 feet. It is named for Brian Flurry's father Lee Fleury.

 

Garnet colored, medium full bodied bright expressive blackberry fruits accented by clove spice, oak, tobacco leaf, graphite with hints of sweet mocha and vanilla. 

 

RM 93 points. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2917734

 

https://www.fleurywinery.com/

 

Wayfarer Chardonnay BYOB at Carnivore & Queen

Wayfarer BYOB and website confusion/conflict at Carnivore & Queen Restaurant Downers Grove

For a Friday night date night, we planned to go to a local neighborhood eaterie, Carnivore & the Queen in adjacent Downers Grove (IL). The last time we were there, we learned it was the last evening in the existing site, that they were premiering opening the expanded adjacent dining room the following evening. So, we were eager to go back and see and try out the 'new' restaurant. 

Even though we know the usual menu, we reviewed the posted on-line menu to plan our evening, and chose two seafood options for our dinner. Exploring our wine pairing options, we checked the on-line published winelist (below) options to pair with our seafood selections.

Seafood selections ...

 

Fresh Baked Northern Walleye and Shrimp

Pan seared Chilean Sea Bass Beurre Blanc Sauce

In light of the very limited options, one Sauvignon Blanc and one Chardonnay, we pulled from our cellar an ultra-premium highly rated recent release Sonoma Chardonnay that we were eager to try and review, to take for an accompaniment, taking into account the prominently displayed posted published Corkage Fee. 

Carnivore & Queen Published Winelist page, copied SIC below:

Long Shadows Chester Kidder with Beef Tenderloin

Long Shadows Chester Kidder with Beef Tenderloin

With left over beef tenderloin I pulled from the cellar this premium Washington State Cabernet as an accompaniment. 

This is from Long Shadows collection which I I have featured often in these pages, Long Shadows Cellars feature world class winemakers and Columbia Valley fruit. Long Shadows was the creation of Allan Shoup, leader of Chateau St Michelle from 1983 to 2000. There he introduced Washington State grapes to winemakers from around the world in collaboration to produce quality wines. 

After retirement from Chateau St Michelle he founded Long Shadows to produce world class ultra-premium wines in Washington with fruit sourced from there. He built a state of the art winery in Walla Walla and recruited a team of legendary producers to craft signature wines from the best vineyards' fruit from the Washington Columbia Valley. Three years into the new venture Long Shadows was awarded the Winery of the Year by Food and Wine Magazine. 

Shoup recruited a top winemaker with expertise and a track record producing best in class wine in each category or type of wine based on varietal grape. Marketed under the Vintners Collection, each of the Long Shadows labels in a testament to the legend of the winemaker for each label based on each varietal.

Since the beginning, Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture Gilles Nicault, has overseen the operations of the winery and worked closely with the vintners to bring each winemaker’s vision to completion. Internationally renowned winemakers Randy Dunn (Feather Cabernet Sauvignon); John Duval (Sequel Syrah); Philippe Melka (Pirouette Red Wine); and Michel Rolland (Pedestal Merlot) are active partners in their respective wines. Gilles now crafts Poet’s Leap Riesling and Saggi, a Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, in styles that remain true to their original winemakers, Armin Diel and Giovanni Folonari respectively. Gilles crafts Chester-Kidder, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, independently.

Gilles works closely with the state’s top growers to execute a diverse winemaking protocol at Long Shadows’ state-of-the-art facility in Walla Walla to produce wines of exceptional quality, true to the Columbia Valley’s terroir.

Nilles Nicault has served as director of winemaking and viticulture since Long Shadows inception in 2003. As resident winemaker overseeing daily operations at Long Shadows' state-of-the-art winery in Walla Walla, Gilles works with a group of celebrated vintners from around the globe. It is his job to ensure that each winemaker's vision is realized in the vineyard and the cellar.

While many winemakers would find this proposition a daunting task, French-born Nicault describes the position as his "dream job." Those who know Gilles best say it is his insatiable curiosity and desire to learn something new every day as well as his winemaking skills that make him uniquely qualified for the position. In addition to executing daily operations at the winery, Gilles is the winemaker for Long Shadows' acclaimed Chester-Kidder, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah blend that carries his signature.

Gilles grew up in southern France and graduated from the University of Avignon with a degree in Viticulture and Enology. He honed his craft in the fabled hillside vineyards and wineries of Cotes Du Rhone, Provence and Champagne. On 1994, already a vintner of rising fame in his homeland, Gilles traveled to Washington State to expand his winemaking skills.

Impressed by Washtington State's vineyards and the opportunity to be part of a growing wine community, he stayed in the Columbia Valley, working for Staton Hills and Hogue Cellars before joining Woodward Canyon in 1996, where he stayed until moving to Long Shadows in June 2003. Sharing Woodward Canyon's passion for world-class wine, Gilles soon found Woodward Canyon's founder Rick Small was his ideal mentor and biggest champion. In 1999, Woodward Canyon named Gilles head of enology and production.

Gilles is married to winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla of Forgeron Cellars, also an acclaimed winemaker. The couple wilves in Walla Walla with their two children.

Allen Shoup named this wine in honor of his mother, Elizabeth Chester, and his grandmother, Maggie Kidder. He selected Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture, Gilles Nicault, to craft this New World blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other classic Bordeaux varieties.

Chester-Kidder is one of six distinct red wines from Long Shadows Vintners - a collection of ultra-premium wines, each built on the unique expertise of some of the world’s most knowledgeable winemakers to showcase the quality and caliber of Washington State’s Columbia Valley. 

Long Shadows "Chester-Kidder" Columbia Valley Red Blend 2015

The 2015 Vintage of Chester-Kidder is a red varietal blend composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah and 15% Petit Verdot, sourced from the Columbia Valley Appellation. It is styled to capture the complexity of the growing region, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes from Candy Mountain give the wine its firm structure and wonderful intensity. Walla Walla Valley vineyards contribute Cabernet that adds depth and rich textures.  Petit Verdot sourced from Sagemoor Vineyards provides layers of ripe, fresh flavors and refined tannins. This release is aged for an average of 30 months in tight-grained French oak which allows the fruit to fully integrate prior to bottling.

We wrote about this wine earlier this year in this blogpost - Long Shadows Chester Kidder.
 

The 2015 CHESTER-KIDDER was awarded 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Vinous.

This was bright garnet/ruby colored, medium to full bodied with a complex rich round core blackberry, black raspberry and red currant fruits with notes of licorice, savory spices, dark mocha chocolate and hints of graphite and earth, ending with a long and complex finish with gripping tannins.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2914665

https://longshadows.com/ 

https://twitter.com/LongShadowsWine 

@LongShadowsWine

 

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Pour Boys Holiday Wine Dinner 2023

Dr Dan and Linda hosted Lyle and Terry and Linda and me for a 'Pour Boys' wine group holiday dinner. They prepared Veal Marsala as the main entree dish with mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, mixed green salad and roasted red pepper soup.

 
Before dinner they served a medley of artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

Dan pulled from his cellar a horizontal selection of 2011 vintage vineyard designated Aussie Shiraz' from producer Clarendon Hills. 

What a treat to taste three different designated vineyard selections from the same vintage - thereby called a 'horizontal' collection. 

Clarendon Hills produced these different vineyard specific Shiraz's in 2011 - Bakers Gully, Moritz and Liandra vineyards. Dan was able to obtain this collection at auction for this special tasting. 

Clarendon Hills is a small family run winery based in Clarendon, South Australia, founded by biochemist Roman Bratasiuk in 1990, the self-taught winemaking proprietor. Considered somewhat of a maverick within the Australian industry, Roman changed the landscape of Australian fine wine. Roman’s prophetic vision was to introduce the single vineyard concept to Australian wine. 

Roman purchased a 160ha property high in the hill country of Clarendon at an altitude close to that of the Adelaide Hills. Here he established a vineyard with single-stake trellising similar to that used on the steep slopes of Germany and Austria; it produces the Domaine Clarendon Syrah. Sons Adam and Alex have joined their father in the business – Adam in the winery, Alex managing the future direction of Clarendon Hills. -JAMES HALLIDAY

Roman pioneered the Australian Grenache category with the release of Australia’s first single vineyard, 100% Grenache: the 1991 Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs Grenache, then extended that approach to Shiraz. 

He also developed what became his flagship ultra-premium label, one of Australia’s greatest single vineyards with his Astralis Syrah vineyard in Blewitt Springs. Over the following 3 decades Roman and Clarendon Hills developed a world-wide, first-class reputation highlighting remarkable old vine Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet vineyards from the Blewitt Springs and Clarendon sub districts.

The McLaren Vale terroir with close proximity to the Great Southern Ocean and St Vincent Gulf, in combination with old mature vines produce wines that typify the region with freshness and bright natural acidity derived from the marine climate.

Clarendon Hills Syrah’s are considered among the very best in Australia from arguably Australia’s greatest single vineyard Syrah, Astralis, Clarendon Hills has added a number of individual, exceptional, single vineyard old vine expressions to the portfolio.

Roman adopted a ‘Burgundian’ approach to branding producing 19 single vineyard designated wines, reflecting an internal hierarchy seen in the old-world with their Village wine, Premier-Cru and Grand-Cru classifications. 

"Roman Bratasiuk is one of planet earth's greatest winemakers" - Robert Parker Jr, Wine Advocate 5 Star Winery - Halliday Wine Companion

Clarendon Hills Bakers Gully Syrah 2011

This release got 92 points by Halliday Wine Companion and 90+ by Wine Advocate.

Aggregate of Cellartracker scores of 89.8

Dark ink color in the glass. Smooth with well integrated tannins. Hint of black pepper. Really good qpr - better value than the Liandra and actually enjoyed it better

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953002

Clarendon Hills Liandra Vineyard Syrah 2011

The Clarendon Hills Liandra Syrah site is located in the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale, a sandy section of the famous Blewitt Springs sands.

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 88

CT'er - Deep, dark and full bodied. Subdued fruit. Hints of black pepper and solid tannins. Good.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1953013

Clarendon Hills Moritz Vineyard Syrah 2011

Winemaker's Notes - The Moritz vineyard was planted in 1975 in a fine sandy soil with pebbled ironstone top soil. Located in the lowest elevated sub-district Kangarilla it is dry-grown and trellised. The Syrah vines are encouraged to yield approximately 2 tonne per acre or 34 hectolitres per hectare. Consistent vineyard characters include coffee, blue berry and black olive like vibrance in the primary fruit spectrum. Moritz displays balance and intensity. Bitter chocolate and coffee flavors mingle with the earthy meatiness and combine to provide a supple experience. 

Aggregate of ten Cellartracker scores of 90.3

Initial nose was acidic and dark red fruit. Wild herbs, a little mint, later after some decanting there was cola. Very intense taste of tart berries. A little pepper in the middle. nice tannins at the front long tart finish. Intensely fruity without being sweet. Savory notes appear after on the pallette after about 1 hour in the decanter  Excellent.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1955271

https://clarendonhills.com.au/

 To pair and compare with the horizontal flight I brought another vineyard designated label Napa Valley Shiraz from Venge Vineyards, one of our favorite producers, from the 2010 vintage.

Lyle brought from his cellar another 2010 vintage release of Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend, Cinq Cépages from Château St. Jean. We've visited the Chateau estate winery on several occasions over the years including during our Napa/Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

With the starter courses Dan served Sea Smoke Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2014.

I mentioned that during our recent week retreat to our Florida vacation rental home, I read a couple books, including most notably, "A Perfect Score" by producer Kathleen Hall of Hall Vineyards. We obtained signed copies of this book at the Producer release tour tasting in Chicago with Dan & Linda. 

To commemorate that memorable evening, and the festive holiday, Dan graciously pulled from his cellar a bottle of Hall flagship Excellenz, also from the 2014 vintage. We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to the producer during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. 

I mentioned that we tasted the 2013 vintage release of this wine at our family Christmas celebration last year and I noted that that wine was on par with and notably perhaps the best bottle of California or Napa Valley wine I ever experienced. I featured that bottle in this blogpost at the time.

Exzellenz and aged Robert Craig Mt Veeder for holiday celebration gathering

The kids and grandkids assembled at our house following the annual ritualistic Santa's breakfast at our local Seven Bridges Golf Club.

For such a festive family gathering, the boys went down to the cellar and pulled two memorable, notable bottles, Hall's flagship ultra-premium Exzellenz Napa Cabernet, from the grandkids birthyear 2015 vintage, and the historic inaugural vintage release of Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

We discovered, tasted and acquired this label at the magnificent Rutherford Estate Winery during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017. This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold and have had some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. The 2013 vintage of this label that we tasted that day in their magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown below) got 100 points from  Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.

Sacrashe Vineyard at Hall Rutherford Estate

What a treat, and what better way to enjoy such a spectacular cellar selection than with family - especially my two sons who are becoming oenphiles in their own right, like me! 

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

As explained on the rear label, shown below, the name Exzellenz is German for Ambassador, in commemoration of Kathyn Hall's service as US Ambassador to Austria from 1997 to 2001. 

The bricks in in the magnificent tasting room in the cave at the Rutherford Sacrashe estate (shown right and above) and featured in a separate blogpost at this link)  are recovered and repurposed from a former royal castle in Austria.  

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard (shown above) at the Hall Rutherford Estate on the lower slopes of the Vaca Range overlooking Rutherford, Napa Valley. 

While this release didn't get 100 points, it came as close as possible, 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 97 points from Owen Bargreen of owenbargreen.com, and 93 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Parker wrote about this wine: "Composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sporting a very deep purple-black color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Exzellenz unfurls slowly, tantalizingly out of the glass to reveal powerful, intense scents of crème de cassis, Black Forest cake, blueberry compote and preserved plums with an undercurrent of Chinese five spice, molten chocolate, licorice and Marmite toast with wafts of garrigue and camphor. Very rich, full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it coats the mouth with black and blue fruit preserves plus tons of spice and savory accents, held together by a rock-solid, grainy frame and finishing with epic persistence."

Spectacular! Delicious! Enchanting! Deep dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, round, rich, complex but elegant and seductive smooth blackberry and black currant fruits accented by savory clove/cinnamon spices, tones of crème de cassis, mocha chocolate, tobacco leaf and black tea, with a tongue coating dusty gripping but silky smooth tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 97 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508301

So tonight, we tasted the 2014 vintage release of this ultra-premium label.  

 Hall "Exzellenz" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

This release was awarded a monumental 99 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 95 points by Wine Advocate.

Deep dark garnet/purple colored,  full-bodied, firmly structured and muscular yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, rich round blackberry and plum fruits, Wine Advocate cites 'mulberries, smoked meat. Indian spices and tree bark', hints of Crème de cassis, toasty oak and graphite on a long firm chewy tannin laced finish.

RM 95 points. 

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

@HALLWines

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting

Our visit to the Hall Rutherford Estate was one of the highlights of our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the Sacrashe Vineyard, with hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.

The magnificent caves are sculpted into the mountain with bricks brought from an Austrian castle and features alcoves that create a galley of sculpture art.

The magnificent tasting room (shown left) at the end of the barrel cave features a large table for thirty guests underneath a massive chandelier fashioned from a thousand year old grape vine.

Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. This wine got 100 points from Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

Exzellence 2014 ...

From a tasting 11/14/2020 - I wrote: 

WOTN - Wine of the Night - Deep garnet-purple color, full-bodied, firmly structured yet perfectly balanced and silky smooth, elegant and polished, full concentrated black berry fruits with notes of crème de cassis, graphite, hints of cigar box and what Robert Parker described as tree bark turning to a long sinewy spicy oak laced finish. 

RM 96 Points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/11/fabulous-premium-wine-flight-for.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2508295

Château St. Jean "Cinq Cépages" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 2010

The Exzellenc compared nicely with the Cinq Cépages that Lyle brought from his cellar. 

We featured our visit to the Chateau during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017 in this blogpost Chateau St Jean Sonoma Reserve Private Tasting.

We had this release with Lyle and Terry when he rbrought it BYOB to a local Trattoria in their West Loop neighborhood for a festive holiday dinner as featured in this blogpost Cinq Cépages BYOB at Mart Anthony Chicago.

At that time, I wrote, "This 2010 vintage may be the best Cinq Cépages I have had - bigger, fuller and more concentrated than any I remember. This was immediately apparent when we opened and poured the dark inky purple thick full bodied juice into the glass while the room filled with bright floral and berry fruit aromatics." 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

We hold a dozen vintages of this label dating back to the 1994 vintage, one of our favorites from this producer. This is a classic label, Cinq Cepages referring to the five flavors derived from the five designated Bordeaux varietals included in the blend - Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Petit Verdot and Malbec. 

This label gained notoriety when the 1996 Cinq Cépages was named the #1 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, and later the 1999 vintage went on to be named number two.

Winemaker's notes: "The 2010 Cinq Cépages is a stunning color in the glass, deep ruby with a subtle violet colored rim. Layered aromas are vivid; black plum, blackberry compote, clove spice, tanned leather and a hint of fresh tobacco leaf. Secondary aromas of raspberry and spiced cherry mingle with notes of violet and pomegranate. The aromas lead to an incredibly juicy palate with flavors of blueberry, cherry and blackberry. Nuanced flavors of espresso and a distinct mocha component add to the complexity. The full-bodied wine has smooth, silky tannins that offer solid structure but do not overwhelm. The wine is plush and approachable yet complex and appealing in the glass. In signature Cinq Cépages form, this wine combines the strength of the diverse Sonoma County region to create a well-balanced, complex and powerful wine."

This vintage release was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Dark garnet purple colored, medium to full-bodied, firm, dense structured blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits with notes of spice, earthy, smokey cedar, cigar box and black olive with smooth moderate polished tannins on the finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1710008

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/12/robert-craig-veeder-cinq-cepages-byob.html

For pairing with Dan's Clarendon Hills Shiraz', I brought this Napa Valley label. 

Venge Vineyards "Stagecoach Vineyard - Block I-4" Napa Valley Syrah 2010

Venge are one of our favorite Napa Valley producers that we've been enjoying since the 1980's. We've had dozens of vintages and many labels from this producer which we've visited in Napa Valley several times, and this the first Venge Syrah we've ever had. We obtained this limited production single vineyard desigated release at auction recently and we were eager to try it. We recently obtained a mixed case of four vintages of this label and tonight we brought this, the oldest vintage release.

This relessae was awarded 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Wine Spectator.

Wine Enthusiast noted, "With this wine, Venge has taken a giant leap into the front ranks of California Syrah producers". 

This is sourced from the legendary Stagecoach Vineyard, which sits high up on Atlas Peak in the Vaca Range that forms the eastern boundary wall of Napa Valley. 

This wine was aged in 60% new French oak. 

Dark inky purple colored, medium full bodied, with dense extracted briary blackberry fruits accented by a layer of licorie and spice with notes of herbs and tobacco leaf with chewy chunky tannins on the full finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1873772

 After dinner with the dessert and chocolates we had this aged Sauterne dessert wine that we brought from our cellar. 

Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes Bordeaux 1998

We enjoy tasting this wine at the UGCB Release Tour tastings each year. 

Some UGCB reports: 

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago - Bordeaux Producers 2010 Release Tasting Chicago

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016 - UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2015 - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) 2012 Vintage Release Tasting Chicago

Considered as one of the first Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes, Château La Tour Blanche from the estate of the same name is known for classic Bordeaux viticulture.

Founded in the 17th century by Monsieur de Latour Blanche, the Château la Tour Blanche estate produces all kinds of wines. The first owner was a squire, adviser to the Parliament of Bordeaux. In 1855, this wine was recognized as Premier Grand Cru Classé of Sauternes during the World Fair. The estate was bought in 1876 by Daniel Iffla.

Château La Tour Blanche is unique among the classed growths in Sauternes. It is owned by the state and is home to the La Tour Blanche School of Viticulture and Oenology. The First Growth's benevolent status was down to the generosity of its owner, Daniel Iffla, who went by the name Osiris, and was a powerful financier and philanthropist whose only stipulation with La Tour Blanche was the founding of a wine school. 

In 1907, the latter bequeathed it to the French state after his death and to this day, the entire estate is owned by the Ministry of Agriculture. In order to respect the wishes of the deceased owner, a school of wine making and viticulture was established in 1911, built on the estate to accommodate the children of the region. Today, the viticultural high school of the Château de La Tour Blanche trains many technicians and vineyard enthusiasts.

The estate covers an area of 70 hectares, a large part, 44 are covered in vineyards composed of Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. The estate is composed of gravelly soil favorable to surface drainage. This arrangement eliminates much more moisture at the foot of the vines, thus contributing to the improvement of the production. 

The establishment produces primarily sweet wines, classified under the name “Sauternes“, a designation of controlled origin in the appellation Sauternais, one of the many subdivisions of the Bordeaux region. A dry white is also made along with an extremely rare red wine made composed from Merlot.

As is custom in Sauterne, this is a Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc Blend - Semillon (~77%), Sauvignon Blanc (~20%), and Muscadelle (~3%).

It was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 91 points by Wine Spectator and two others.

Winemaker notes - The colour is straw yellow. The nose reveals loads of fresh fruits, such as apricot or peach, but also beeswax and cinnamon. In mouth the attack is very supple with much fullness and roundness. Great aromatic complexity dominated by candied fruits is present. The final is spicy, developing to honeysweetened savours.

Vintage characteristics: The year 1998 was marked by difficult weather conditions. Indeed, after a very dry end of winter, the wet weather in April delayed the vegetation (174 millimetres and 22 days of rain). The period from May until the end of August was again character- ised by extreme dry conditions. Then September was very similar to April with 94 milli- metres and 17 days of rain. So maturity and overmaturation were disturbed, and the grape harvest began only on September 28. Sanitary sorting involved a little loss, but thereafter everything went well thanks to a nice month of October, which made it possible to obtain very high concentrations.

Number of bottles produced: 39,000

Deep golden color. This is nicely balanced, mid-weight and fresh, with notes of saffron, apricot jam, some sweet spices, honey, caramel, some smokey botrytis notes, some flowery notes too and figs. It‘s medium+ bodied, with medium acidity and just beautiful overall balance of sweetness and acidity. Pretty long finish. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=75950

Signorello Hope's Cuvee Napa Chardonnay for Thanksgiving

Signorello Hope's Cuvee Napa Valley Chardonnay 2014 for Thanksgiving Feast

Every year at Thanksgiving I rethink, and overthink about what wine will we serve with dinner. I seek a special wine with some distinction or significance, but invariably default to a favorite one that we enjoy. Such was the case again this year when we opened a couple of memorable bottles from our cellar that we have a history of enjoying. We gathered with family and in-law for a getaway week to our Destiny Cove vacation rental in Destin, Florida.

Signorello "Hope's Cuvee" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2014 

This ultra-premium Napa Chardonnay was an easy choice, not only for quality drinking, and ideal pairing with the dinner, but also brought back several memories related to family and friends for the holiday. 

When it came time to posting about this selection, I realized we last had this same label during a 'celebration' dinner just last summer. Notably, this is a label of which we hold several vintage releases, and this was the oldest bottle in that vertical collection, thereby practicing good cellar/inventory management.

Tonight's experience was consistent with that most recent tasting which I posted in Cellartracker and in these pages back in June. 

Bright golden yellow colored, medium-full bodied, rich, textured, round fruits, hints of butterscotch and peach accented by honeysuckle, nut, stone, and with a long flavorful lip-smacking finish.

6/13/2023 - I like this wine: 94 Points

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/06/signorello-hopes-cuvee-napa-chardonnay.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2232077

 I wrote extensively about this wine and our visits to the winery with family and friends, and the recent history of the winery having been destroyed in the Napa region fires.

Posted Monday, June 12, 2023

Signorello Hope's Cuvee Napa Chardonnay 2014

Concluding a real estate transaction, Linda and I had an intimate mini-celebration dinner at home on the deck. I pulled from the cellar this premium Napa Valley Chardonnay for the occasion as a pairing with the roasted chicken with haricot verts, carrots and mashed potatoes.

As posted in earlier blogposts, we discovered and acquired (the then current release vintage of) this wine during our visit to the Signorello Estate on Silverado Trail in Southeastern Napa Valley during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013. 

At that time I wrote about this label: "I am predominantly a red wine drinker and while I enjoy an occasional glass of white, most often with appropriate food, I don't normally get excited about a white wine. This chardonnay was the exception,  memorable and special."

As part of proper cellar management, we pulled from our cellar the oldest vintage release in our collection of the multiple vintages we hold of this label.  I had set this bottle aside over the weekend to open with Sis Pat in town since she was with us when we visited the winery (shown below), but we didn't get to it. 

With sister/in-law and nieces' family at
(Former) Signorello Estate overlooking vineyards
and valley floor.

The Signorello winery sits at the very southern end of Napa Valley and has 43 acres of vineyards, including some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in all of Napa Valley - fruit from 37-year-old vines goes into his Hope’s Cuvée.

The magnificent Estate was destroyed in the fires that engulfed much of sections of Sonoma and Napa in 2017. Fires came down the foothills to the property that sat up the hill back from the highway.

The fire reached the winery and completely destroyed the hospitality center that also housed offices, a wine lab and a family residence upstairs. The adjacent  crush pad and stainless steel tanks survived intact along with the barrel cellar and equally if not most importantly, the vines of the adjacent vineyards. 

In the wake of the destruction from Napa Valley’s October 2017 Atlas Peak Fire, Ray Signorello (Jr) vowed to rebuild. We're relieved to read about the Phoenix of Signorella Estate, rising from the ashes, literally, and being rebuilt, even grander and larger than before. Signorello said he viewed the tragedy as an opportunity to do something new and exciting and is rebuilding with a larger fermentation facility, wine caves and a stunning expanded hospitality center.

The winery has kept almost all of its team employed as an interim step toward returning to normalcy and they have been operating out of a modular building was brought in to serve as a temporary hospitality center.

The adjacent Darioush property nearby that sits at the valley floor closer to the highway and similarly situated properties were untouched.

Signorello "Hope's Cuvée" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2014

The 2014 Chardonnay Hope’s Cuvée is crafted from a selection of the best lots and barrels sourced from the thirty-five year old vines on the 5 acre estate vineyard in front of the winery overlooking the valley floor. There were 379 cases produced of this wine, which went through 44% malolactic and was aged in 56% new French oak. 

Winemaker/producer Notes - Hope’s Cuvée Chardonnay showcases our utmost dedication to excellence, named in honor of my mother, Hope Signorello. It benefits from an intimate understanding of our 5.12 acre parcel on the west side of our hill. Planted 36 years ago with clonal selections from one of the region’s earliest outstanding vineyards, it is now one of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in Napa Valley. Night-time hand-harvesting into small trays protects the varietal’s refined and delicate flavors. This wild yeast and unfiltered Chardonnay can be enjoyed over the next 12 years. 

This release was awarded 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. He wrote, "The 2014 Chardonnay Hope’s Cuvée is a stunning Chardonnay. The wine shows plenty of orange blossom, honeysuckle, lemon custard and crushed rock notes. It is certainly very Burgundian and almost like a grand cru from the village of Puligny-Montrachet. Terrific stuff, with stunning texture and richness" ... (RP) (10/2015)

This is one of the few Chardonnays that we keep in our cellar that is vastly predominantly red wines. This was delicious and most likely at the apex of it's drinking profile, but likely not to improve from further aging, so time to drink up. The fill level, label, foil and most importantly, the cork were all pristine, in ideal condition, still wrapped in the tissue packaging, we acquired this bottle upon release and have held it in our cellar for nearly a decade.

Bright golden yellow colored, medium-full bodied, rich, textured, round fruits, hints of butterscotch and peach accented by honeysuckle, nut, stone, and what Parker calls "plenty of orange blossom, lemon custard and crushed rock notes," with a long flavorful lip-smacking finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2232077

https://www.signorelloestate.com/

https://twitter.com/SigVin 

@SigVin 

We also opened another favorite that we have featured in these pages before as well. This wine is available in distribution at Total Wine, the big box wine and beverage superstore near our Florida home, and in Indiana, so we pick this up enroute or on location and not have to rob our wine cellar collection.

Like the wine above, we also gave this one 94 points in our personal rating.

We lasted featured this wine in these pages in, May, 2023, when I wrote:

Tensley Colson Canyon Santa Ynez Mountains Syrah 2020

Tensley Colson Canyon Santa Ynez Mountains Santa Barbara Country Syrah 2020

It was just about a year ago that we discovered and acquired this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

We discovered Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines during that Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley Wine Experience while driving the Foxen Canyon wine trail. One of the producer's we visited recommended we check out Tensley Wines, which was near that estate we were visiting. 

We drove by the Tensley vineyards on Alisos Canyon Road, (shown left) which was closed, so we stopped in the Tensley tasting room in downtown Los Olivos.

I was not aware of this brand prior to this trip. It was a top discovery and revelation and may certainly be one of our go-to boutique labels going forward. We joined their wine club to obtain a supply of their labels from those tasted and going forward. 

Colson Canyon Vineyard | Santa Ynez Mountains

Since joining their wineclub, we have acquired a half dozen labels from this producer, but this single vineyard designated label remains our favorite. Sourced from Colson Canyon Vineyard, high up in the Santa Ynez Mountains north of Los Olivos, it has been providing exceptional Syrah fruit to Joey Tensley since 2000. It is this fruit that helped Tensley become the one of most sought after Syrah's on the coast with consistent high ratings, one vintage flirting with Robert Parker perfection at 99 points.

Tensley released his first vineyard-designate Syrah from Colson Canyon in 2001 and the wine press took notice. That year Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator named two of Tensley’s 2001 Syrah’s to his list of the Top Ten Wines in the World. Robert Parker, Jr. scored all the ‘01’s in the high 90’s, calling them “serious, hand-crafted efforts.”

By 2008, Food and Wine Magazine named the Colson Canyon Syrah “Top Syrah in America Over $20.” Two years later, Robert Parker gave the 2008 Anniversary Series Colson Canyon Syrah 99 points, and Wine Spectator Magazine named the 2008 Colson Canyon Syrah "#17 of its Top 100 Wines in the World". The 2007 Colson Canyon Syrah was ranked #22 the year before. Since then, the string of high scores has been consistent.

Tensley and his wife Jennifer, purchased the Colson Canyon property about five years ago, ensuring that they would always be able to tap the most distinctive site. 

Perched high up at an elevation of 1,400 feet, the combination of warm days and cool nights produces dense, fruit-forward wines with opulent jamminess. The site covers 115 acres but has only 16 acres of grapes because the elevation and rugged terrain make so much of the site untamable. Tensley believes that only three more acres have the potential to be planted.

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Ynez Mountains Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County.'

"This wine always delivers juicy round seamless edges. This is the only wine we add some new French oak, as its weight and power integrates with the oak, adding a bit of toasty buttery complexity. Colson Canyon is such a beautiful example of fruit forward juicy California Syrah. Open it anytime and enjoy its blueberry, cassis and chocolate nuances or leave it 20 years and enjoy its leathery, almondy notes. It does not really matter when you open it, it will deliver."

1925 cases were produced.

This was awarded 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points by Wine Advocate, 95-97 points by Vinous, and 95 points by Wine Spectator.

Might I consider this the Tensley 'flagship'? This reminded me of a couple other memorable highly rated Syrahs that has been standouts - Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Vineyard and Penfolds Grange. Both are flawless, seamless, and notable for their smooth, polished, balanced profile. While not to that level of perfection perhaps, this is close and evokes the same experience. This bottle was from the Wine Club allocation we received from that visit. We're anxiously awaiting our fall release shipment that we're told was shipped this week.

We love this full throttle jammy rich fruit forward style of the 2020 Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah. Notably it has been recognized with four scores of 95 points or more.

We wrote about this wine in January and before that late last fall. Each time I gave it 94 Points.

Consistent with earlier notes - even better with BBQ ! Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/family-celebration-dinner-smoked-ribs.html

Earlier, last fall I wrote: "Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish." 

RM 94 Points

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/tensley-colson-canyon-vineyard-syrah.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

https://tensleywines.com/product/2020-colson-canyon-syrah/

https://twitter.com/tensleywine

@tensleywine

Robert Craig Affinity and Beef Bourguignon - A Perfect Pairing

Beef Bourguignon and Robert Craig Affinity for a Delicious Perfect Food and Wine Pairing

Following our dinner the other night featuring Beef Bourguignon and a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend, we did a repeat with leftovers and another similarly situated wine selection. Tonight we pulled from the cellar a Robert Craig Affinity, his Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend. This turned out to a perfect 100 point wine and food pairing.

I've written often that Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets are one of the largest holdings in our cellar dating back to the inaugural release vintage back in 1993 and 1994. Affinity is the basic Bordeaux Blend aside several appellation specific Cabernet Sauvignons in the Robert Craig portfolio. I've written how Robert intimated that he was most proud of this label and went to lengths to keep the price affordable so it could used as an entry point introduction to the brand and portfolio.

I could not imagine a wine that would be better suited for tonight's spectacular delicious dinner. This evening we had the beef over buttery cheese mashed potatoes rather than the linguini noodles.

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend 2005

This is a classic example of the optimal pairing of wine with food accentuates and amplifies the enjoyment of both! We've had at least of dozen vintages of this label over the years and I don't recall any one that I enjoyed more. 

This vintage release is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot.

Winemaker Notes - "Expansive ripe black cherry and currant aromas, with spice, black tea and violet notes. Bright and abundant dark fruit flavors and black currant liqueur are intertwined with sweet spice box, licorice and violets. Opulent black cherry drives the lively, long-lived finish. A rich, multi-layered Cabernet that balances power with finesse.'

"The 2005 Affinity marries the power and richness of Napa Valley hillside Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot for a complex, supple and stylish Bordeaux-blend, backed by silky, ripe tannins. Luscious fruit flavors of great depth and purity are hallmarks of Affinity together with integrated tannin structure for long-term aging."

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate and 89 points by Wine Spectator. Robert Parker called it a "elegant Margaux-like stylish, graceful wine".

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, well-balanced, full round rich intense flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits with notes of cinnamon spice, sweet cassis, toasty oak, graphite, and hints of cedar. 

RM 93 points.

At eighteen years the fill level was ideal as was the foil, the label was slightly torn, and most importantly, the cork was slightly saturated and a bit soft from some past seepage, but still intact.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=442936

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine