Friday, November 3, 2017

Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir 2014

Belle Glos Las Alturas Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2014 at Burwell's Charlestown

We spent a getaway weekend in Charlestown, SC, where we discovered the city, took in a rare tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright Auldbrass Plantation estate, and then escaped to Seabrook Island to visit friends for the weekend.

While in town we took in the 2 1/2 hour Charlestown Culinary Tour that highlights Charleston's Historic French Quarter. The walking tour traverses the historical neighborhoods dropping in to a collection of the city's hottest and historic restaurants showcasing food creations that make up Charlestown's history and culinary scene from traditional favorites to recent innovations. The tour highlights cuisine of favorite locally-owned and operated restaurants, conducted by Glen - a former chef, foodie and evangelist for the food scene of the Holy City. This is a great introduction to the culture, history, personalities and attitudes of all things food in this vibrant city.

Glen leads the tour through the streets with a half dozen stops revealing background, insights and perspectives of the Charlestown food scene with the chance to sample a variation of the spectrum of food offerings - barbecue, shrimp skewers, oysters, shrimp and grits, blueberry shakes, BLT, and decadent dessert. All the while Glen shares the latest happenings of the cityscape, chef's, sommeliers, and restaurants.

One of the many tips he offered was Burwell's Stone Fire Grill that features steaks and seafood selections cooked over a 1,400 degree, wood-fire oven, or 700 degree stonewood fired grill in the open kitchen adjacent to the bustling dining room (above). We dined at Burwell's that evening and had a great dinner validating his recommendation was a great choice.

We selected from Burwell's wine cellar (shown left) wine list this Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir to accompany our steak dinners. Normally, we'd order a Cabernet Sauvignon to go with a hearty grilled steak but the selective wine list offered two of our favorite Pinots at reasonable prices.

We're not normally Pinot Noir drinkers, favoring bigger more robust, more forward wines with concentrated fruit. Yet, I selected this Pinot for our dinner and it did not disappoint, standing up nicely to the steaks as well as seafood entrees. If one blind tasted this wine, they might think it is a Petit Sirah with its deep color and firm but refined approachable tannins. While it still maintains some of the flavor profile of a Pinot with that dusty rose tone, this is big and complex with tasty concentrated forward fruit.

Belle Glos is the brand developed by Joe Wagner, son of the legendary Chuck Wagner, owner of the well known Caymus brand and producer of the ultra-premium "Special Selection" Cabernet. Joe has also launched the popular moderately priced Meiomi brand. The Belle Glos brand is devoted entirely to distinctive, single-vineyard Pinot Noirs sourced from properties in Sonoma County, the Sonoma Coast and this one down in the central coast Santa Lucia Highlands.

With the emphasis on single vineyard designated labels, its all about terroir, that sense of place associated with vineyard with its distinctive soil, climate or micro-climate, elevation, terrain, location relative to coast, mountains or other influences - all those elements that contribute to a particular wine. And since they are based on factors associated with a location, climatic and seasonal variations aside, they will be relatively consistent from year to year, vintage to vintage, thereby becoming part of the brand and identity for that label.


The vineyard notes say of this wine: "The Spanish term ‘Las Alturas’ means ‘the heights’, a fitting name for this vineyard located on one of the highest grape-growing benches in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The vineyard sits at an elevation between 540 and 1210 feet where the sunny but very cool climate creates a wine bearing all the hallmarks of this coastal region: robust, expressive, full bodied and balanced by a firm acidity.

Nestled between the Santa Lucia Mountains and the western side of Salinas Valley, Las Alturas benefits from early morning fog which rolls in most days from Monterey Bay then burns off within a few hours. Gusty winds funnel in from the bay throughout the afternoon, moderating the overall temperature and contributing to one of the longest growing seasons in California. The high winds also result in smaller berries with very thick skins, giving us more color concentration. Another attractive characteristic of this vineyard is the low-vigor, free-draining sub-soil made up of a calcareous base underneath a layer of sandy loam. This complements our farming techniques to further reduce our yields per vine and augment the fruit’s intensity."

Belle Glos "Las Alturas" Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Pinot Noir 2014

This was deep ruby red in color with intriguing aromas of sun-warmed blackberries, ripe plums, with hints of black licorice. A complexity of dark berry fruits unfold on the palate; blackberries and bing cherries along with dark chocolate flavors. Vanilla and cedar oak undertones on the mid-palate further enhance the wine. The overall impression is rich with refined tannins, firm acidity and explosive layers of ripe fruit.

RM 91 points.
92 points Wine Spectator

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2498033 

http://belleglos.com/

https://charlestonculinarytours.com/activities/charleston-downtown-culinary-tour/

http://www.burwellscharleston.com/

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Freemark Abbey has been one of our favorite Napa Cabs for over three decades. Since the seventies, Freemark Abbey have consistently produced quality wines with a positive QPR (quality price ratio). Wine buddy Bill C and I used to regularly compare different labels and vintages of this producer in our tastings.

We've visited the winery numerous times and have purchased special bottles from their library for special occasion dinners. One memorable escapade was when we convinced Barry Dodd, Cellarmaster, to release two library selections, from 1974 and 1978, which we enjoyed that night at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) to toast our wedding anniversary years.

So, when our local merchant Vin Chicago featured the current release Freemark Cabernet as their top wine for their regular Saturday tasting, I not only wanted to support such behavior, but I picked up several bottles as well to add to our vertical collection of this label.

When Bill and I became wine buddies back around the millenium, we quickly learned of our shared interest in and fondness for Freemark Abbey Cabernet. We would share and compare this Napa label as well as their single vineyard designated offerings from the Sycamore and Bosche vineyards - Bill having a vertical collection emphasizing Sycamore, and me holding Bosche. I still recall and have written about acquiring a case of the 1991 Bosche' after tasting it with Jeff Jaegar, one of the Freemark owners, at a Binny's tasting back at the time. We enjoyed this case over the next two decades having only recently recently consumed the last bottle, still drinking very nicely at 25 years of age.

Freemark Abbey gained notoriety at the famous Judgement of Paris Wine Tasting back in 1976. This was the legendary comparison wine tasting competition between top-ranked French vs. California labels - one for Chardonnays and another of red wines (Bordeaux wines from France and Cabernet Sauvignon wines from California). Of course, the wine world presumed this would be no contest stacking upstart California producers' labels against the classic historic French labels. Lo and behold, the shock and awe when not only did the Californians show respectably, but actually received the top ranking best in each category. Freemark Abbey was represented in both categories with it's 1969 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1972 Chardonnay.

The story is retold in the book Judgement of Paris, by George Taber, the only reporter in attendance to cover and record the event. It was also the basis of the wildly entertaining 2006 movie Bottle Shock. I highly recommend both for general audiences, and a must read/watch for wine geeks and oenophiles.


The 2013 is a Bordeaux style blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.


Its a testament to Ted Edwards and the team at Freemark Abbey, as well as the overall quality of the 2013 Napa Valley vintage, that they can produce over 24,000 cases of a 92+ Wine Advocate rated wine. And, kudo's too for keeping the price point reasonable to provide a high QPR (quality price ratio).

This was dark opaque purple in color, full bodied, with complex, concentrated, rich but nicely integrated blackberry and blackcurrant fruit accented by a layer of mocha chocolate with tones of allspice and tobacco leaf with firm but approachable tannins on the big finish. This is drinkable now but will last a couple decades or more of cellaring. It has a bit of an edge that will likely smooth and become more polished with a few more years of aging.

RM 91 points.

I picked up this wine to enjoy now and also to hold as part of our horizontal collection of 2013 wines to commemorate the birth year of two of our grand-kids, Richie and Marleigh. 


https://cellartracker.com/w?2274933

http://www.freemarkabbey.com/

Thursday, October 19, 2017

High Valley Vineyards High Valley Petit Sirah 2014

High Valley Vineyards High Valley Lake County Petit Sirah 2014

Traveling to a valued client site, I planned to grab dinner and go back to the hotel to watch the NLCS. I ordered a pizza and went to Friar Tuck's to select an accompanying wine. I found this Petit Sirah from High Valley Vineyards from the High Valley Appellation up in Lake County which is over the hill north and east of Napa Valley. 

The High Valley sits at an elevation that ranges from 1,600 to 3,000 ft. and is one of the coolest appellations in Lake County due to cool breezes that blow across and off the oldest lake in North America. The terroir of the appellation consists of red, rocky volcanic soils that produce intensely flavored grapes.

The High Valley brand is the collection of single vineyard designated wines of producer Shannon Ridge. They are sourced from the 75 acre Betsy Vineyard on North Slope of their Home Ranch in the High Valley AVA, named for the mother of owner/producer Clay Shannon.  

The first indication this wine might exceed my expectations was its dark inky black color that looked more like coffee than red wine. It was rich, full bodied, intense, concentrated yet nicely balanced with wild berry bold fruit flavors of blue and black berry and black cherry with notes of vanilla and hints of clove spice with full well rounded tannins and a long tongue coating elegant finish.

I enjoyed this so much with my pizza I went back the next day and picked up a couple more bottles, and I plan to pick up several more my first opportunity. This provides some great QPR - Quality Price Ratio, and I look forward to trying some of the other labels from this brand.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2813951

https://www.shannonridge.com/






Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

Branson Coach House Shiraz Single Vineyard Greenock Block 2004

We pulled this Branson Coach House Barossa Valley Shiraz for a full flavored but smooth casual sipper with some cheese and biscuits. I bought everything they had in stock when I tasted this at Binny's Glen Ellyn wine desk upon release many years ago. Wish I had more as this is aging and drinking quite nicely at a dozen years of age.

This property was taken over by Two Hands after the passing of proprietor Malcolm Asden, the result being these wines are now made alongside Two Hands by their winemaker Matt Wenk. The acquisition was made possible by capital from outside foreign investors.

Along with the winery and brand came eighteen acres of Greenock vineyards planted in mature high quality shiraz which will continue to be produced under the BCH label. Subsequently, Two Hands wine production is also done at the BCH Greenock facility.

Two Hands developed a range of premium Shiraz sourced from high quality fruit they acquired from top growers' prime locations, eventually growing and branching out to acquire their own vineyard in Barossa and now their own winery.

They'll continue to produce BCH premium single vineyard designated labels Coach House Block Rare Single Vineyard and Greenock Block Single Vineyard sourced from the vineyards that surround the winery.

 Dark inky purple color, full bodied, thick, chewy layers of aromatic flavors of tangy black fruits, raspberry, black cherry and notes of blueberry, accented by tones of clove spice, graphite & hints of creme de cassis on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246545

 RM 92 points.

Monday, October 9, 2017

Robert Craig Affinity 2004

Robert Craig Affinity 2004

For a grilled tenderloin steak dinner with baked potato we pulled from the cellar this Robert Craig

Picnic lunch tasting with Robert at the Howell Mtn estate.

Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon. Our Cellartracker records indicate we hold eighteen vintages of this wine so this is a wine we know well. We may hold more Robert Craig in our cellar than any other producer. We've had many fond memories of tasting dinners and special events with Robert and Lynn Craig, and their staff at events at the estate high atop Howell Mountain.

Notes indicate the last tasting of this vintage was four years ago when it was a decade old. Three years later, this is showing its age a bit as the dark berry fruits are starting to give way slightly to non-fruit flavors of tea, olive cedar and spice.

Robert Craig produce a portfolio of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon labels from the different mountain appellations - Howell Mountain, Mt Veeder, Spring Mountain, and this blend that was based on Napa Valley Cabernet and Bordeaux varietals.

When Robert Craig was proprietor producer, he prided himself on crafting quality high QPR (quality price ratio) Cabernet that was affordable and consumable early at a young age. Recently, in the last couple of years, this wine has crept up in price from about $50 the $70-75 range that used to be the province reserved for his single appellation designated labels. The $50 price point has been taken over by the Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon label. These labels are still produced in sufficient quantity to be readily available in distribution at many leading wine retailers - nearly 4000 cases were produced of this vintage label.

The is a Bordeaux Blend composed primarily of Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Robert Craig’s Affinity estate vineyard and an adjoining property to the south of the Stag’s Leap district, in the southeastern foothills of Napa Valley. Being at the southern end of Napa Valley with exposure to the breezes and fog off of San Pablo Bay, the area known as Tulocay, produces a Cabernet Sauvignon that is similar to the Bordeaux-region of France. Added to the blend is Cabernet from the warmer hillsides near St. Helena, which contribute structure and complexity.

Dark Ruby colored, medium full bodied, this has a firm structure ripe black berry, black cherry and black currant fruits with black tea, spice with notes of black olive, cedar and hints of tar and anise on a tight lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

Blend 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=323482

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/






Saturday, September 23, 2017

Belle Glos Pinot Blue Point Duck NC

Belle Glos Clark and Tellephone Pinot Noir at Blue Point Restaurant in Duck, Outer Banks (OBX) NC

For Saturday lunch we dined at Blue Point Restaurant in Duck, NC on the Sound waterfront of the Outer Banks (OBX) island. For entrees we had the daily fresh catch - seared tuna steak with cherry tomatos and chick peas in a sweet and very slightly spicy tomato ragu. For a wine pairing we selected from the wine list Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2015, a perfect accompaniment. 


Blue Point have an outstanding wine selection of mostly American wines reasonably priced from modest entry level to many premium and several ultra-premium labels. The winelist was carefully and creatively selected with many of our favorite producers' labels such as Kongsgaard, Dunn Vineyards, Robert Craig, Spottswood, Joseph Phelps. Domaine Serene and Venge. The list includes a very small selection of European wines of well known premium labels such as Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf du Pape and Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Tuscany, Italy. There is also an acceptable selection of wines by the glass, again carefully selected and reasonably priced. 

I've written often in these pages about the frustration of mediocre or substandard wine lists and poor inadequate wine service. This might be forgiven if prices are reasonable or moderately priced, but this is inexcusable and intolerable when wines are expensively priced. So it was a pleasure and notable that Blue Point not only offer an outstanding selection at reasonable prices, but their wine service was exceptional as well with proper glassware and wine served at the ideal temperature. The host attributed this to having the only certified sommelier in the Outer Banks. It is also the result of care and attention being paid details of the fundamentals with excellent execution! Well done Blue Point! 

That said, the tuna entrees, while delicious, were slightly overcooked beyond the medium rare prescribed preparation.

Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Santa Barbera Pinot Noir 2015

This is the wine of owner winemaker Joseph Wagner, son of Chuck Wagner of Napa Valley Caymus notoriety. Belle Glos was the name of his grandmother, Chuck's mother, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, Matriarch and co-founder of Caymus Vineyards, original land and vineyard owner. Joe focuses on single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs including this Clark and Telephone Vineyard from down in Santa Barbara County in the Santa Maria Valley.

This was a big bold forward full bodied wine, more like a Syrah or even a Zinfandel than a Pinot, very, much in the style that we favor.  Dark deep scarlet colored, full bodied, rich, complex, concentrated layers blackberry, black raspberry and notes of black currant fruits accented by vanilla, nutmeg, tones of sweet caramel and strawberry, with hints of smoked meat, and pain grillé, yet this is nicely balanced, smooth and polished with refreshing acidity, velvety tannins and a hint of toffee lingering on the long finish.

This was the most enjoyable and best drinking Belle Glos I recall every tasting.


RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2523260

http://belleglos.com/

https://www.thebluepoint.com/




Friday, September 22, 2017

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc & OBX Seafood

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc & Outer Banks, NC (OBX) Seafood

Another family evening dinner at our Outer Banks, NC (OBX) beach house, tonight featured local seafood faire - flounder with shrimp and crabcakes. For such a meal we brought from home Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc, one of our favorite labels of this varietal, which provided a perfect accompaniment.

Our visit to Cliff Lede Vineyards has been a highlight of several of our Napa Valley Wine Experience trips. 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Light straw colored, medium-light bodied, harmonious nicely balanced layers of subdued citrus, peach, pear and lychee fruit with a refreshing crisp clean, smooth acidity finish.

I admit my discrimination and tasting vocabulary is not as sophisticated or complete with white wines as it is for reds. Hence, I include the Winemaker's Notes for this label: The 2015 Sauvignon Blanc is loaded with aromas of Meyer lemon and candle wax atop layers of honeysuckle, ginger, and tangerine.  Spring blossoms of wisteria, lupin, and California buckeye abound in the upper register of  the seductive  perfume.   The  full-bodied, coating mouthfeel  expands out  on  the palate  with  a  rich crème brûlée like texture as unctuous notes of bosc pear, orange marmalade, and lavender honey coalesce along the long, satisfying finish.

Composition 82% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Vert, 1% Muscat Canelli

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2324460

http://cliffledevineyards.com/

Here are the kids watching the sunrise this morning on the beach deck.


Thursday, September 21, 2017

Forts Latour Quilceda Red Wine

Forts de Latour, Quilceda Creek, Pommery for Outer Banks beachhouse deck beef tenderloin dinner

We're spending the week on the Outer Banks of North Carolina (OBX) at a beach house and brought a case of wine to enjoy with our prepared meals. The featured wine of the mid-week dinner was Les Forts de Latour, a tribute to son-in-law Johnnie Fort and daughter Erin. Les Forts is the second label to the flagship Grand Vin Latour, which we served from a 6 liter Imperial at their wedding, but that wine is over the top price wise for even special occasion serving such as this for most of us.

The Grand Vin Latour 1990 was rated 100 points and was anointed Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator in 1993, which only adds further to its lofty heights and associated prices. We hold a few bottles of the Grand Vin which at prices approaching $1000 each I call 'once in a lifetime' event wines, as opposed to 'once a year', 'once a month/week', and 'everyday' wines.

The 1990 vintage was so highly regarded globally, this was the first of three years and wines from the vintage to receive Wine of the Year acclaim - the Latour from Bordeaux, one from California (Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 1990, in 1994). and one from Australia (Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange 1990, in 1995).

This bottle was from our collection of birth year wines from the 1990 vintage commemorating son Alec's vintage, a fitting tribute for a special family dinner, to serve such a selection. As the second label of a 'perfect' wine, it lived up to lofty expectations.

Before dinner, Ryan opened a bottle of Pommery Champagne that he brought from his home cellar. An ideal starter for a festive dinner on the deck.

Our second bottle of the evening, to fill out the flight and compare opposite the Latour was an American Meritage (a Bordeaux style blend) from producer Quilceda Creek in Washington State. This was from the 2006 vintage, the wedding anniversary year of Erin and Johnnie.

Our feature dinner preparation for the evening was beef tenderloin with twice baked potatos and brussel sprouts. The Les Forts and Quilceda Red were idea matches for the food and were each extraordinary.

Dining on the beach house deck looking out on the dunes and the roaring ocean surf below provided a spectacular and memorable setting. During dinner we witnessed a fox crossing the property and an overflight of military helicopter and formation of fighter jets.

Chateau Les Forts de Latour 1990

As stated, this is the second label wine from the prestigious First Growth Chateau Latour which dates back to the 16th century. The Latour vineyards cover 80 hectares (2.2 acres per hectare), 48 of which are adjacent to the chateau, known as the "Enclos." The Enclos consists of a ridge that peaks at 16 meters above the level of the Gironde River which makes up the Bordeaux valley region. The grape varietals planted on the estate, typical of the Medoc (The Right Bank of the Bordeaux region),  are comprised of  75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The first vintage of Forts de Latour was in 1966 and constant work in the vineyard and in the cellars has resulted in achieving the level of a top Medoc classified growth.

An extraordinary wine from an extraordinary vintage, the Forts de Latour was a perfect accompaniment to the superb preparation of the beef tenderloin that one could cut with a fork.

Opaque, ruby colored, medium bodied, a full bouquet of violets floral perfume and forest floor that holds on the breath in the mouth long after sipping, silky smooth, sinewy, polished notes of black currant fruit seamlessly integrated with notes of tobacco, leather, hints of cassis and touch of cedar and spice on the almost delicate tannin finish.

At 27 years, this resembles a mature Bordeaux that seems to be at the latter stage of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging, but not to be rushed to consumption either. Indeed, we still hold a half case of this wine acquired en premier (as futures prior to release) to commemorate son Alec's birth year, holding and anticipating for more special occasions or family events.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4397

http://www.chateau-latour.com/en/a-time-for-sharing/les-forts-de-latour
 
Quilceda Creek Red Wine 2006
Like the Forts de Latour, this is also a second label wine of a prestigious producer, from the Washington State Columbia Valley producer Quilceda Creek, known for Cabernets and other Bordeaux varietal wines, including this proprietary Red Wine blend of Bordeaux varietals. The blend of this vintage is similar to that of the blend in Forts de Latour, in the Right Bank style - 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% each Cabernet Franc and Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. 

Even at 11 years, this was half the age of the Forts de Latour. While similar in the blend of Bordeaux varietals, this was more in the American style at a walloping 15.2% alcohol as compared to more subdued 12.5% of the Bordeaux.  

This was dark inky garnet colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated structured forward black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of kirsch, almost cherry cola like with dark mocha chocolate, hints of cedar, tones of tobacco and leather on the structured tannin lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 


After dinner dessert included chocolate cake, red velvet cake and ice cream - chocolate, strawberry and vanilla (below). 





 

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Hall Estate Napa Cabernet 06-13

Hall Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 vs 2013

For a family dinner during our week in our Corolla vacation home, we had pasta with meat sauce and a pair of Hall Estate Napa Cabernets. Son Ryan brought a 2013 vintage and I brought a 2006 for a comparison tasting.

The visit and Appellation Tasting at the Hall Rutherford Estate was a highlight of both of our Napa Valley wine trips earlier this year.

Hall Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Here is a great example of deeper insights and appreciation of a pair of wines or vintages of the same wine through a comparison tasting. This revealed subtle but marked differences, perhaps attributable to the different vintages, and/or perhaps somewhat attributable to seven years of additional aging.

While both vintages exhibited the same dark garnet color, medium full body and firm intense blackberry core, the 2013 was more obtuse with an edge to it with notes of alcohol heat with notes of camphor and graphite, that may soften over time. In comparison, the 2006 was smooth, more polished and more approachable. The '13 was accented by a layer of black cherry fruit with hints of the black raspberry tones more predominant in the '06. Both exhibited tones of spicy cinnamon with hints of dark mocha, turning to firm lingering tannins on the finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2289056

Hall Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

My Cellartracker records indicated we've consumed eight of the baker's dozen we acquired of this vintage of this wine and shows five tasting notes to date. It was revealing and interesting to taste aside the younger more recent '13 vintage of this same wine - a mini-horizontal* tasting.

Same as earlier tasting note: Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, a symphony of flavors accented by bold expressive black berry and black raspberry fruits with highlights of anise and mocha with tones of cedar, sweet toasty oak and clove spice and hints of earthy leather turning to a smooth polished lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=761928

http://www.hallwines.com/visit/winery-experiences/rutherford-tours



* Horizontal tasting - a comparison tasting of multiple vintages of the same wine or wine having the same characteristics.

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

Cabernet Franc Duo Accompany Steak Fajitas

Cabernet Franc Duo Accompany Steak Fajitas Family Dinner

Ocean side of our beach house in Corolla
We spent a week in the Outer Banks of North Carolina with the kids and grand-kids. Son Ryan and I brought along a mixed case of wine to accompany our family dinners.

With hurricane Jose stirring offshore (see wave action to the right), we hunkered down inside the beach house for the opening family dinner of our family vacation.

We had steak fajitas and opened two bright, bold and spicy Cabernet Franc Bordeaux varietal based wines as accompaniment - Ryan brought a Justin Justification from Paso Robles, and I brought a Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc to compare.

The spicy character of these Cabernet Franc wines was appropriately suited to the bolder fajita preparation.

'Justification' is the 'Right Bank' Bordeaux varietal based Red Blend from Justin Winery and Vineyards.

'Right Bank' refers to the style or blend of grape varietals indigenous to the Right or north or east side of the diagonally flowing Gironde River that runs through the Bordeaux region of southwestern France. Wines from that side tend to be predominantly Merlot with high (er) percentages of Cabernet Franc. Wines from the 'left bank' or south and west side of the river tend to favor Cabernet Sauvignon.


Justin Justification Paso Robles Red Wine 2014

This is Justin's Right Bank Red Blend which features 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot.

Deep ruby colored, full bodied, concentrated core of firm black current and black cherry fruits accented by graphite and cedar with notes of anise, cinnamon spice and hints of dark cocoa with moderate full tannins on a long lingering finish.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2300779

https://www.justinwine.com/

Del Dotto Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 1999

Our winery visit and cellar tasting tour at the Del Dotto Cellars in Rutherford just south of St Helena was a highlight of our recent 2017 trip to Napa Valley.

This is nearing the end of our 1999 collection of Del Dotto Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals which is part of our vertical collection dating back to that era.

At eighteen years, this is showing its age as the berry fruits are starting to give way to non fruit flavors of game, earth, leather and cedar. dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, the black berry and bright black cherry fruits are offset by the non-fruit flavors. Time to drink up as this is in its late stages of its drinking window.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=37725

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/



Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Castello d'Albola Acciaiolo Toscana IGT

Castello d'Albola Acciaiolo Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend 2004

We don't have a large collection of Italian wines in our cellar but when daughter Erin announced she was bringing lasagna over for a family dinner I pulled this Toscana Sangiovese blend for the occasion.

This is a blend of 2/3 Sangiovese and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon - the popular favored notable blend of new age Italian wines from Tuscany known as IGT designated wines (Indicazione Geografica Tipica). This designation was introduced in 1992 to allow use of Bordeaux varietal grapes in the blend which were previously not allowed under the Italian DOC or DOCG appellation rules. Shortly thereafter, in 1994, Bolgheri DOC was established as an official DOC classification for Cabernet – Sangiovese blend wines. IGT designated wines are classified based on their region of origin, rather than their grape varieties or wine styles.

Toscana IGT is the most famous and most popular IGT designation for wines produced in Tuscany where there are actually 10 different provinces where the wine could be produced - Arezzo, Firenze, Grosseto, Livorno, Lucca, Massa Carrara, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato and Siena. These names are often associated with the producer in labeling the wine indicating its geographic origin within the region of Tuscany.

The blend balances the distinctive black-cherry and wild-berry flavors of Sangiovese with the structure and power of Cabernet Sauvignon.   Cabernet – Sangiovese wines are produced extensively as IGTs in Tuscany, and are known under the famous (if unofficial) title of Super Tuscans. These wines combines two of the most popular wines styles of Northern Italy and Bordeaux varietal based wines from that popular French region as well as California, and increasingly from Washington State and even Australia.

Tuscan IGTs are the basis of what have become highly popular and iconic Super Tuscan labels such as Marchesi Antinori Tignanello, Solaia, Sassicaia, Querciabell, and Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco to name a few.

Castello d'Albola Acciaiolo Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend 2004

This was dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied with firm structure and complex concentrated blackberry and tangy black cherry fruits accented by black tea, tobacco, and hints of smoke with mouth puckering firm tannins and tangy acidity on a lingering finish. This begs for the spicy meat and tomato sauce and cheeses of the lasagna and garlic bread - a perfect accompaniment.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=439873

Monday, September 4, 2017

Caymus Estate Cab Anniversary

Caymus Estate Cab Anniversary Branding Caps Day in the City Outing and Celebration Dinner

A couple years ago, in 2014, the well know Napa Valley producer Caymus changed their longstanding label branding and associated packaging to commemorate their 40th anniversary. One of the notable packaging elements was a prominent '40' on the top of the foil. It just so happens that Caymus' anniversary aligns with our wedding anniversary so we served the 40th commemorative bottle at several family dinners including a gala family celebration dinner in honor of our 40th.

So it was only fitting that Linda and I selected a Caymus '43' Cabernet for a special anniversary dinner outing together. We ventured into Chicago for the day to celebrate the end of summer and it turned into an all day outing, culminating in a upscale dinner at Chicago Cut Steakhouse on the Chicago River.

The plan was to head into the city, have lunch and then take in the Gauguin exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago, one of our favorite city destinations.  We are long time members and make it a point to take in all the special exhibits. We get much joy from, appreciate and take advantage of our proximity to AIC which is truly a world class attraction, having been selected as the #1 museum in the world by Tripadvisor, a major travel site.

We ventured in looking for a place we could eat al fresco enroute or downtown. We researched and explored 'Little Italy' which we used to enjoy decades ago but had lost track of it. We've determined that the Little Italy as we used to know it doesn't exist any more having given way to the influx of Latinos taking over the near southwest side which has become Little village, Mexico of the Midwest, and the growth and spread of the University of Illinois at Chicago, and the emergence of the hip new University Village area, and the expansion of the Illinois Medical District on the near west south side.

Seeking a new adventure, we sidestepped several of our usual favorites in the area such as Chez Joel on Taylor Street, and May Street Cafe down in Pilsen. We ended up at Lagunitas Brewery north of the Little Village Neighborhood in what is actually Douglas Park neighborhood, tucked away above the BNSF railroad, in the industrial district to the east of the Douglas Park.

We had the address and set out for the site from University Village area and wandered through Little Village meadering back and forth across the railroad line a couple times as we headed west.

We had no idea what to expect and were amazed at the size of the facility and operations and hospitality areas that included of the Brewhouse Tap Restaurant overlooking the brewery and bottling packaging operations below.

Amazingly, this has become a destination in its own right. The anticipation of what is to come is heightened by the spectacle of the long access hallways, the second with long velvet ropes set up to accompany large crowds. We took in lunch and then opted for a self guided tour rather than the formal guided affair.

After the Gauguin exhibit we walked the new River Walk along the south bank of the Chicago River. The energy of the crowds, boat traffic, revelers, and multiple wedding parties was amazing as the city has clearly taken to this new attraction, from the water as well as by land. Clearly both feed on each other creating a vibrant spectacle. Not wanting it to end, we ventured across the river to Chicago Cut Steakhouse for a riverside table view wine and dine experience overlooking the river from the upper level.

The parade of boat traffic seemed to be endless as the tour boats were each completely full with folks taking in the scenery of the spectacular architecture and the whole river scene on the last holiday weekend of summer.

Its was with a sense of great pride and fun to share our wonderful city with visitors from around the world as we noted that it almost seemed that English was a second language among the throngs of people taking in the scene. At dinner we sat adjacent to French speaking visitors from Montreal as well as folks from neighboring Indiana and Michigan.

Caymus Estate '43' Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

The Caymus was dark garnet/purple colored, full bodied, with rich concentrated dense vibrant blackberry, black raspberry and blue berry fruits; initial alcohol heat that burns off with decanting and some settling time, notes of cassis and hint of sweet vanilla with silky smooth tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2569303

The Caymas cab was a perfect accompaniment to our Chicago Cut prime filet steaks, perfectly prepared in my favorite 'Pittsburgh style', with sides of creamed spinach and whipped potatoes. The Kale and Quinoa salad with candied nuts and fruits was fabulous.

Caymus is one of our favorite Napa Cabs with it smooth polished but bold vibrant style. Caymus is known for early accessible drinking but also can be aged for further maturation in the bottle. While not known for its aging potential, we've held Caymus for close to twenty years for mature fine drinking enjoyment.

As is tooo often the case, Chicago Cut served our wine too warm, such that we actually had them put our red wine in an ice bucket to bring it down to appropriate serving temperature. When you're paying 2x plus times retail for a wine, its not unreasonable to expect ideal service with appropriate glassware, decanting and proper serving temperature. I don't know why this is so difficult for so many restaurants. Its unacceptable when paying $175 for a bottle of 'moderate' priced wine on the wine list to expect it at appropriate temperature for consumption, but it happens much too often.

We enjoy drinking our wine at proper cellar temperature which at 58-63 degrees is ten to fifteen degrees below room temperature, not room temp or above. We keep our home cellar even cooler at about 53 degrees and find it ideal for our drinking pleasure as well as for long term storage. Amazingly, more than once we've been served expensive bottles of fine wine, that were brought from a storage area adjacent to the kitchen, well above room temperature. Restaurants serious about their wine service (and expecting high price points and associated margins) should be held accountable, and should know better.

A great memorable special day in our beloved Chicago.

http://www.caymus.com/

http://www.chicagocutsteakhouse.com/

http://www.artic.edu/

https://lagunitas.com/taprooms/chicago#





Monday, August 28, 2017

Jayson Neiman Mini-Horizontal Tasting Flight

Jayson Neiman Mini-Horizontal Comparison Tasting Flight

Dear friends, 'brother' Bob and Gloria visiting from South Florida, Linda prepared grilled tenderloin steaks and roasted potatoes and asparagus spears. I pulled from the cellar two special wines, Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Valley 2004 and an accompanying horizontal Neiman Cellars Napa Valley Red Blend.

We often serve Jayson label wine with Bob and Gloria in tribute to their oldest namesake son. This afforded the opportunity for a mini-horizontal comparison tasting of two similar wines, each with distinctive terroir and styles. Indeed, the last time we served this wine was with Bob and Gloria during our 'last supper' together on the eve of them moving to Florida last winter.

This was an interesting comparison of two wines where the Pahlmeyer overshadowed the Neiman by a fairly wide margin. I am not sure the disparity would have been as apparent if they weren't tasted side by side. Too bad for the Neiman, which against the Jayson, didn't live up to my recollections or expectations.

Pahlmayer Jayson Red Wine 2004

The Cellartracker tasting window lists the wine tasting window for this wine through 2013. While we often tend to hold and drink our wines long into or even past their tasting window, in this case, this wine seemed still be at its apex, while not likely to improve further with more age. I updated Cellartracker to 2018.

Like the previous tasting, "Upon opening, sweet floral and berry aromas burst forth and filled the room. Dark garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant full forward flavors of black raspberry with tones of blueberry, sweet currants, tangy spice and hints of sweet caramel and whisper of tobacco leaf with nicely integrated sweet tangy oak on the lingering finish."

RM 93 points.

This is Pahlmeyer's Right Bank Bordeaux style Blend (meaning predominantly Merlot over Cabernet Sauvignon) -  60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Perhaps the predominant Merlot in the mix attributed to the softer more approachable style.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/11/pahlmeyer-jason-napa-valley-red-wine.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=296642

Neiman Cellars Red Wine 2004

Similar to my earlier tasting notes, this tasted more like a Bordeaux than a Napa Red Blend, with slightly more subdued fruit with more non-fruit accents such as leather, cedar and tobacco. As written earlier, "This tasted like a vibrant expressive Bordeaux, full forward complex berry fruits accented by floral, leather, tobacco leaf, some slightly earthy tones and long lingering notes of cedar with a smooth polished tannin finish that resonates with silky floral cedar mouthfeel long after tasting."

Tonight I gave this 91 points, one less than the previous 'stand-alone' tasting, perhaps due to the positioning vis a vis the bigger,brighter, more robust and sweeter Jayson. Notably, this wine is 1/3 less expensive than the Pahlmeyer, thereby perhaps delivering equivalent QPR (quality price ratio).

RM 91 points.

According to the rear label, only 230 cases were produced of this release.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=914199

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/05/eyrie-robert-morris-special-dinner-and.html

Constant Diamond Mountain Syrah 2006

 Constant Diamond Mountain Syrah 2006

During our recent visit to Diamond Creek Vineyards up on Diamond Mountain in northwestern Napa Valley, we reminisced about our trip up to the top of the mountain to visit Constant Winery and Vineyards and considered reaching out to them to arrange a follow up visit.

For a casual grilled steak dinner at home, I pulled this Constant Diamond Mountain Syrah in remembrance of our just completed trip and as a tribute to the departed producer Freddie Constant.

This was consistent with earlier tasting notes - The 2006 Constant exhibited dark inky purple color - medium-full bodied, nicely balanced and polished bright full flavors of blue and black fruits with a layer of ripe plum and sweet clove, hints of tea and cedar on the lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=775651

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/05/constant-queen-of-diamond-syrahs.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/03/duo-of-contrasting-style-syrahs.html

Saturday, August 5, 2017

Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience 2017

Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience 2017

We just returned from a week touring the Napa and Sonoma Wine Country. This year we broke from the tradition and routine we adopted years ago of focusing on one 'AVA' (American Viticultural Area) or appellation per trip. We adopted this approach years ago for several reasons: the immersion in one appellation provided a comparative tasting of producers' styles and terrior effects, it simplified and limited transit travel from one wine stop to the next, and, in retrospect, its much easier to recall specifics of a trip as we recount experiences from our trip that focused on 'Atlas Peak', 'Diamond Mtn',  'Howell Mtn', 'Mt Veeder', and/or 'Spring Mtn' appellations.

Notably, we started this model when we were focusing on 'mountain' appellations where travel is much more challenging in the remote mountain regions. We adopted an approach of starting at the top of the mountain and working our way down. This worked out well and allowed efficiency, enjoyment, and perspective on the whole wine and travel experience.

This trip was the first time for one of our travelers so we were showcasing certain favored producers. We were also visiting or revisiting select targeted favorite producers rather than selecting based on geography.

This was also our first trip to focus on exploring and discovering the more remote appellations of Sonoma County, as a discovery and learning trip, setting the stage for further in-depth immersive studies in the future. We stayed the first few days in the Pacific coastal town of Bodega Bay.

Sonoma County is vast, covering almost 60,000 acres of vineyards, with a broad diverse range of terrior and microclimates. Sonoma County, reaches all the way to the Pacific Coast from the west side of the Mayacamas Mountain range that forms the eastern boundary of the Sonoma Valley and separates Sonoma Valley from Napa Valley. Sonoma County consists of 16 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs, or appellations) – each with its own distinctive characteristics. There are more than 400 wineries in the region.
 
The western Sonoma County Sonoma Coast area is emerging as the source of 'cool climate' Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
 
This week we focused on, visited and toured the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Dry Creek Valley appellations, as well as Sonoma Valley. This set the stage, so watch for more immersive studies on these areas in the future, now that we have the big picture and understanding of navigating the region.

This trip targeted and featured several of our favorite and well known producers whose wines we hold and drink regularly as featured in this blog: Diamond Creek, Lewis Cellars, Joseph Phelps, Hall Rutherford Estate, Del Dotto, Darioush and Cliff Lede, and a few others.

We also discovered some new producers or producer's sites in the remote Sonoma areas - Gary Farrell and Porter Creek Vineyards and Winery. Lastly, we also visited Krug in Sonoma County, and  Chateau St Jean and Kunde in Sonoma Valley, and Trefethen in Napa.

Watch for and follow my winery visit reports and tasting notes and purchase and tasting 'Tweets' on @unwindwine on Twitter and in this blog in the coming days and weeks as I draft and publish my experiences and findings.