Black Diamond Amador Zinfandel 2013

Guadagni Family Black Diamond Amador County Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2013

I have written several times in these pages about Black Diamond Russian River Valley Pinot Noir  from this same producer. Now they've released a Zinfandel from Amador County up in the Sierra Foothills, an area noted for quality Zins.

I wrote earlier about Guadagni Family wines and stated at the time to expect to see more from them. As featured earlier, "sourced from fruit from GUADAGNI FAMILY WINES, a small family run business that according to records is managed by Donald, Joseph, Mary, William and Breanna at their location on Yokim Bridge Road in Healdsburg. They're reported to produce about 1000 cases a year but views of the property show large tracts of young vines and new plantings so we might expect to see much more of them in the coming vintages."

Well it appears they have expanded their portfolio as their website now features six different varietals, their Pinot Noir, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Rose, and this Zinfandel. Only their 2012 release of the Zin is featured and is said to be a blend of Zinfandel and Primitivo.

Either their website is hastily thrown together, or English is the second language of the publisher, or they're just plain careless, as the Winemaker's Notes for this wine contains several spelling errors. Perhaps it was written after a long tasting session (or during).

"Winemaker's Notes: Carfully (sic) selected lots were fermented seperately (sic) in small stainless steel tanks for ten days after a night harvest and four days of cold soaking which added color and depth. The wine was carefully transferred to American oak barrels while in the last stages of fermentation causing an increase in grape extraction. Finally lees were sirred (sic) once a week for eight months imparting a creamy, softer mouth feel. American Oad (sic)aged for 11 months, 1/3rd new oak and then blended to complete our 2012 Zinfandel."

I wrote in an earlier blogpost how they replaced a black diamond on the label with the skier, to bring attention to the skiing metaphor in their branding and naming their wines, the reference to Black Diamond, the designation given to the most difficult and challenging ski slopes. This metaphor works for the boldness of their wines, but doesn't work if considering black diamond slopes are known as Expert slopes, only suitable or applicable to expert skiers - a fun reference never-the-less.

They say their label name "Black Diamond" refers to the 'boldness and courage' of their wines. 'awe inspiring to look at from the rim and personally satisfying in the finish.... with both strength and elegance' symbolic of Black Diamond wines. 

My notes for this Zinfandel: Dark blackish garnet colored, medium bodied, a bit flabby initially with alcohol heat that burns off eventually, brambly black fruits with a layer of cognac tones, hints of kirsch, turning to a sweet mocha caramel tone on the finish. Well suited for BBQ, pasta or a great pizza wine at this price point. 

RM 87 points. 

Like their Pinot Noir, this provides a decent QPR (quality-price-ratio) at $15.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2602742

http://www.western-importers.com/california_wines/blackdiamond.htm

Mitolo Reiver Barossa Shiraz 2004

Mitolo "Reiver" Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2004

We took this BYOB to Angelis Italian, our neighborhood Italian Bistro. 

The Mitolo family arrived in Australia in the 1950s bringing with them viticulturist ancestry from the Abruzzo wine region in Italy. Frank Mitolo produces small batch and single vineyard designated wines from Barossa and McLaren Vale South Australia. It all began as a pastime making wine in the 1990’s to share with family and friends. He teamed up with well known winemaker Ben Glaetzer in 2000.

Their first wine is still perhaps their best known, G.A.M. Shiraz, a single vineyard wine, first produced in 2000, named in honour of Frank’s three children Gemma, Alex and Marco. Since then Mitolo have added another 10 wines to the brand. This 100% Shiraz wine is named after the (English/Scottish) Border Rievers.

Mitolo / Glaetzer source much of their fruit from growers, the Loprestis, also Italian immigrants and old friends of the Mitolos. The Lopresti vineyards are situated near the coastal town of Aldinga in McLaren Vale, sitting between the Gulf St Vincent and the nearby Willunga Hills. They have 200 acres of Shiraz, Cabernet and Grenache.

At twelve years, this is most likely nearing the end of its prime drinking window and will not improve any further with age. It is dark black crimson colored, full bodied and muscular with concentrated ripe, almost raisin flavored black fruits punctuated by tones of spice, black pepper and kirsch with a layer of vanilla, smoke, cured meat and graphite on a lingering fine grained tannin finish. This is a style Linda likes a lot but the obtuse fruit and non-fruit flavors are a bit overbearing for my preference.

This gets reviews as high as 94 points and a Cellartracker average of 92 but I give it a 90. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=80875

 http://www.mitolowines.com.au/

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2013

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2013

Following the fantastic tasting / showing of this wine last weekend, I picked up the latest release to try as a comparison to the 2009. As good as the 2009 was, I think the 2013 is even better! This is as good as the El Nido Clio 2011 we had a short while ago at less than half the price resulting in a tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, complex and concentrated forward brambly blue and black raspberry fruits with tones of vanilla, and hints of mocha, spicy cinnamon and pepper on a rich full flavorful finish.

This is one of those wines that come along every so often that I say, 'run, don't walk out to buy some', perhaps a half case, and depending on how it ages, you might wish you'd bought more.

Interesting blend of Zinfandel 39%, Petite Sirah 38%, and Cabernet Sauvignon 23% from vineyards in Lodi, Clarksburg, and Amador, California.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2385626

http://www.boglewinery.com/our-wines/wine-profiles/phantom/

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2009

Bogle Vineyards Phantom Zinfandel Blend 2009

For quiet Saturday evening at home after babysitting a grandson, we opened this bold red blend with fresh fruits and cheeses in front of a winter fire and movie.

This is the type of wine that should be held in every cellar for BBQ, pizza, pasta, hearty cheeses or casual but serious sipping. Not for the feint of heart, this is an interesting unique blend of old vine Zinfandel (52%) from Lodi, Petite Sirah (46%) from Clarksburg, with a small amount of Mourvèdre, all from the Central Valley of California.

According to the inscription on the cork (shown below), Bogle is Scottish for a 'friendly spirit, a phantom". 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, aromatic, concentrated forward chewy briary ripe blueberry and black raspberry fruits with tones of smoke and hints of vanilla, dark chocolate, graphite, spicy oak and cedar.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1288036

http://www.boglewinery.com/ 

Freemark Abbey Cuvaison Haut Batailley Flight for Tenderloin Dinner

Freemark Abbey Cuvaison Haut Batailley Flight for Tenderloin Dinner

Wine buddy and fellow 'Pour Boy' Bill back in town, we held a wine dinner with a flight of reds to compliment Linda's beef tenderloin with roasted red potatoes and medley of grilled asparagus and brussel sprouts.

Bill brought a appellation select Mt Veeder Cuvaison Napa Cabernet and a Château Haut-Batailley Bordeaux 2003.

I pulled from the cellar one of our perennial favorite producers that we've enjoyed together on numerous occasions, Freemark Abbey Estate Napa Cab from 1994. I also pulled an aged vintage Cuvaison Napa Cab 1988 for a mini vertical comparison of the 2007. In the end, moderation prevailed and we didn't get that far in our tasting. 

The three wines presented a wonderful comparison of the subtle graduation of three different styles reflecting variations in vintage and terroir - all perfect complements to the dinner courses of cheese, chocolates, entrees and desserts.

 Château Haut-Batailley Pauillac Bordeaux 2003

Bill's Cellartracker notes summed it up well - "Medium garnet with a slight touch of brown at the edges. Earthy nose with the slightest hint of lilac. A bit tight upon opening but within 20 minutes, began to reveal cassis, dark chocolate, a bit of moss and just a hint of mint. Over the course of two hours, the fruit became more pronounced and thus actually began to share some of the same profile notes as the 1994 Freemark Abbey Napa Cab served side by side."

We opened this thinking it might be the starting wine in the progression from light to full and heavier wines in our tasting. Also, as customary in a progressive tasting, start with the Bordeaux Blend with its subtle nuances and greater complexity before moving to the bolder single varietal Cabernets.

It opened with wonderful Bordeaux aromas of earthy leather, dark fruits and floral but was firm and tight with a moderate gripping tannin backbone - yet smooth and polished rather than overbearing. We set it aside and let it open and breath for a bit which it did so very nicely over the course of the evening.

This is probably at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging. 

Dark garnet colored with some bricking on the edges, medium bodied, complex black fruits with tones of earthy leather, tobacco and oak, hints of spice and graphite with smooth polished dusty tannins on the modest finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=61279

Cuvaison Mt Veeder Napa Cabernet 2007

The label indicates this is Estate bottled meaning they grow their own grapes on their property for this wine. We visited the Mt Veeder appellation during our Napa Wine Experience in 2011.

I didn't know or don't recall knowing Cuvaison had a presence there or we might have included them in our tour, although they may just have vineyards there while their winery is elsewhere in the valley. Further investigation shows Cuvaison also own and produce wines from the Brandlin Vineyard on Mount Veeder while their winery and tasting room are just below the Mt Veeder foothills in nearby Carneros.

Again, Bill sums it up well in his Cellartracker tasting note - "Dark, inky purple. No signs of age. Lots of bright fruit, typical of the Mt Veeder AVA. Not much nose but cassis, eucalyptus and a bit of tobacco box on the finish. I expected this to be the most forward of the evenings selections but this was overshadowed by a 94 Freemark Abbey Napa Cab and an 03 Haut Batailley."

WCC 89 points. 

Bright Ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black and blue fruits with subtle tones of that classic Mayacamas Mtns eucalyptus and hints of tobacco, floral and oak. Evident are the subtleties of the moderating effects of the nearby San Pablo Bay fog and breezes that waft in over Mt Veeder that soften the tannins and firmer concentrated punctuated fruits more typically found in the upper valley and opposing Napa Valley Vaca range.

RM 89 points. This received 93 points from Wine Enthusiast.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=860356

http://www.cuvaison.com/

Freemark Abbey Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

What a pleasant surprise in this twenty-three year old. I didn't know what to expect as I still hold some '94 vintage Napa Cabs as it was an excellent vintage that has shown longevity as evidenced by this bottle tonight.Based on this tasting I updated my Cellartracker drinking window to 2018!

Bill and I have enjoyed many Freemark Cabs together over the years including memorable visits to the winery and its wine library. This tasting adds to that legacy with its strong memorable showing tonight.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, initially a bit tight and closed, this evolved to reveal bright vibrant complex black fruits accented by wonderful cigar box and notes of classic Mayacamas Mountain eucalyptus with hints of cassis, spicy oak and cedar that lingered on the long finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=73886&searchId=51630

http://www.freemarkabbey.com/

Robert Mondavi Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Robert Mondavi Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

With dinner of grilled filet of beef, boiled potatoes and peas, I opened this twelve year old Robert Mondavi Napa Cab. Robert Mondavi Winery has a dozen labels and it is easy for the neophyte or uninitiated to get confused among them. Setting aside the Opus ultra-premium brand, their joint venture with Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and the top of the line Reserve Napa Cab, next in line is this Oakville appellation specific Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Oakville is not only the small town on Hwy 29 in Napa Valley, it is also an appellation, an American AVA, and it is the site of the Robert Mondavi estate winery. In this case, Oakville refers to the appellation designated wine in which all the fruit is sourced from vineyards within the AVA - American Viticulture Area that specifies the growing region with its distinctive terroir - climate, soil and growing conditions.

In 2004, the Oakville designated Mondavi Cabernet was especially good and I acquired a fair amount of it for cellaring for enjoyment over a period of years. My records indicate I have two bottles left after consuming this one. My Journal of tasting notes for this wine has a half dozen earlier entries dating back to 2007 with the last one being in 2012. My blogpost of that tasting talks more about the Mondavi Oakville label. The label pictured is from that tasting. That evening we dined at Metisse Restaurant on the shore in Belmar, NJ, a melancholy memory as Metisse was destroyed in Hurricane Sandy. Such is how wine makes memories that touch our lives.

I was pleasantly surprised in how well this wine is showing after thirteen years as it was as good as I remember. It is showing signs of aging but is developing character, complexity and depth as some of the fruits give way to a tone of earthiness and leather, but taking on a full floral layer on the finish. It was a perfect accompaniment to the grilled steak.

Like the previous tasting, the 2004 presented dark garnet ruby red color, medium to full firm body with intense concentrated but smooth and polished flavors of sweet ripe currant and blackberry, dusty herb, and cedary oak with hints of anise and dark mocha on the sharp moderate tannin lingering finish.

RM 91 points, reduced one from earlier tastings. Wine Spectator gave this wine 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224276

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2011

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2011 BYOB at Ozark House Restaurant in Bloomington, IL

Headed downstate again, we planned a stopover in Bloomington, IL for dinner at Ozark House Restaurant. They who were featuring BBQ specials night so we took BYOB this Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2011. We recently tasted the latest release 2014 which prompted me to go back and taste the 2010 vintage release, so I pulled this 2011 from the cellar for a comparison tasting. Clio was a great accomaniment to the BBQ Chicken, Ribs and Pork Loin features.

We didn't finish the bottle so we held some Clio over which we tasted with grilled filet steaks a couple nights later. The Clio was actually too big, bold and powerful for the beef steaks and we switched to a Napa Cabernet, holding the Clio for some hearty cheese and dark chocolates after dinner.

I wrote recently how Clio is the one Spanish wine we collect each year and hold in our cellar in a vertical collection of a series of vintages. It is a consistently high-achieving highly rated wine in a style that we like - big, full bodied, bold, with concentrated forward fruit. It begs for hearty cheeses, spicy pasta, or BBQ so it was an ideal selection to take to Ozark House for BBQ night specials.

This 2011 Clio, like the two other vintages tasted recently is big, full bodied, concentrated forward fruit flavored wine. Consistent with and as noted in my last tasting three years ago, this was dark garnet colored, but it was less polished than some recent vintages with a slight 'tinny' edge, the dark black and red berry fruits give way to cassis, anise, and a layer of expresso with moderate acidity, medium plus tannins and high alcohol on a long full finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1721431

http://bodegaselnido.com/en/

http://www.theozarkhouse.com/

David Arthur Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

David Arthur Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

For a quiet mid-week movie in front of the winter fireplace, I pulled from the cellar this premium David Arthur Napa Cabernet to celebrate a family business transaction, with leftover grilled steak, artisan cheeses, fresh fruit and chocolates.

Our visit to David Arthur estate and vineyards high up on Pritchard Hill overlooking the famed Rutherford Bench of southeast Napa Valley with sis Dr Pat and Rodger (right), and wine buddy 'pour boy' Bill and Beth, was a highlight of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013.

We hold about a dozen vintages of David Arthur Cabernet and selected this 1999 vintage label since it was good year, and was the oldest vintage in our collection.

When opening the bottle, the perfect, high quality extra long cork should be an indication that this is a special bottle. This is not even the top of the line ultra-premium flagship David Arthur 'Elevation 1147' label, but it was delicious none-the-less.

Dark inky garnet color with hues of deep purple, medium-full bodied, concentrated and complex but silky smooth and polished, a symphony of aromas and flavors of layers of ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits, accented by spicy oak, tones of floral lavender, and currants with hints of cassis.

RM 93 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2018788

http://www.davidarthur.com/

After Dinner Trio - El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 Warres Filhot

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 stands up to after dinner wine flight medley that includes a Warre's Vintage Port and a Chateau Filhot Vintage Sauterne Dessert Wine  

Following our Chicago Restaurant Week dinner at Vie Restaurant in Western Springs we came home and had some chocolates, fruits and cheeses with a trio of after dinner wines - a Warre's vintage port, a Chateau Filhot Sauterne dessert wine and Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010.  

As shown, the two dessert wines were from 375 ml half bottles. 

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 

After tasting the Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at the Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield last week, I was inquisitive to try another vintage so I pulled the oldest one from our cellar, the 2010. 

Amazingly this big bold red blend stood up to the trio of wines that included the Warres single vineyard vintage port and the Sauterne.

I thought the older Clio was even better and liked it even more than the '14, perhaps since it was four years older and more settled, but also, because I thought the 2010 was more complex with notes of ripe sweet blue fruit to complement the layer of concentrated full bodied black raspberry, and with a bit more sweetness which I also like. Still, like the 2014, it also had that dark chocolate, hint of vanilla, almost caramel like, finishing with smooth polished sweet tannins on the long smooth finish. A powerful, decadent but smooth approachable wine.

Like the '14, the 2010 Clio is also a blend of 70% old-vine Monastrell with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 94 points. 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave this 92 point, Wine Spectator 91 points, and Robert Parker Wine Advocate 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1467288

Next to the Clio we also had these two big forward dessert wines, both from half bottles.


Warres Porto Vintage Quinta da Cavadinha 1995


Consistent with earlier tasting notes. Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of expresso, cedar and cassis and dark black cherry on the finish.

From a half bottle.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721

Château Filhot Sauternes - 2ème Grand Cru Classé 1988

Trolling the cellar with Dr Dan looking for some after dinner wines, I found this perfectly suited vintage Sauterne that I must admit was not registered in my Cellartracker wine database inventory. I don't remember purchasing this wine or having had it previously. This should not be surprising with more than a thousand bottles in the cellar. Perhaps what is more surprising is how seldom this happens.

Château Filhot is a classic Sauterne Bordeaux, having been classified a 'second growth', a Grand Cru Classe', back in the original 1855 Bordeaux producer classification. The vineyards date back to the 1630's and the château was founded by Romain de Filhot in 1709. According to Wikipedia, after the French revolution, the estate was taken over by Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces who added the estate of Pinaud du Rey and had the château redesigned to its English appearance in 1840.

Legend has it that Thomas Jefferson drank this wine and ranked it directly behind the legendary Chateau d'Yquem. During that time, Filhot enjoyed a greater reputation than today, and the two wines were comparably priced. This was during the time that Jefferson was American ambassador to France. He spent much time there and traveled the wine regions. He became a great admirer and oenphile of French wines. He actually brought back grape vines and labored unsuccessfully to grow them in Virginia at his Monticello estate.


In 1935, Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (the sister of the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, proprietor of Château d'Yquem) bought the estate, which was subsequently modernised by her son, Louis Durieu de Lacarelle, during the 1970s. The estate is currently run by the Vaucelles family.

Today Filhot vineyards cover 150 acres on the 700 acre estate with the grape varieties of 60% Sémillon, 36% Sauvignon blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Their annual production is an average of 6500 cases. They also produce a second label wine called Chateau Pineau du Rey.

For an almost thirty year old wine, the 1988 was still light golden honey colored. These wines start out straw colored and darken with age. I would have expected it to be weak tea colored at least, or even darker. It was medium-full bodied, crisp and clear with complex notes of honey and pineapple aromas with what Robert Parker called a "fine underlying acidity, an earthiness that added to the wine's complexity, and a clean, rich, crisp finish". This was more subdued and not as sweet or unctuous as a d'Yquem or other popular premium Sauterne. It was very pleasant and enjoyable none-the-less. It would be nice with soft moderate cheeses or even a salad course.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker also gave this 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97425

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner w/ Wine Flight

For the annual Restaurant Week Chicago, participating restaurants offer special price fixe dinners to introduce patrons to their venue and cuisine. Typically, these offer great value dining opportunities and sell out very quickly. Once again, we dined at Vie Restaurant in nearby Western Springs and invited Dr Dan and Linda to experience one of our west suburban dining gems.

We also took advantage of their wine accompanying tasting menu.

This was a bit of a fluke since while reviewing the menu and pairings, Dan notice Bacchus as the wine selection for the entree course. Having a collection and being a big fan of Phelps Bachus, he jumped on the choice and we all followed.

Naturally this was most likely a coincidental sleight of convenient confusion between two labels of similar name. Of course the ultra-premium Bachus would not be featured by the glass, let alone at the price fixe pricepoint. Probably innocence rather than deception since only but a few would likely consider this to be an option. Never-the-less, we didn't consider the variation and jumped on the feature offering.

Vie's Restaurant Week Menu

FIRST
celery root and apple crostada, crispy chicken skin, smoked apple butter
or
kielbasa, sauerkraut, sweet and sour turnips, mustard

SECOND
sweet potato soup, pickled cherry bomb peppers, chicharrons, crème fraiche - this was incredible - tasty, nicely presented and amazing in the unique cherry bomb peppers that exploded on the palate with tiny bursts of spicy heat, almost to vanish as quickly so as not to be offending in any way. 
or
roasted beets, gorgonzola, marmalade vinaigrette, grilled greens, sunflower seeds

THIRD
cdk beef combination: wood-grilled sirloin and shaved italian beef, fried giardiniera, smashed potatoes, kale, grilled onions, “juice” - interesting combination, novel, but not something I would choose for an elegant dinner entree
or
catfish piccata, brown butter basmati rice, roasted carrots, pickled asparagus, meyer lemon, capers

FOURTH

dark chocolate mousse cake, sour cherry compote, whipped white chocolate

or

pear caramel hand pie, blonde chocolate ice cream

The wine flight was carefully selected to complement each course. Each was a lesser wine that we would not normally order or hold in our cellar, yet each held up to the occasion, thereby offering substantial QPR - quality price ratio value, with each selection.

Michael Pozzan Winery Dante California Noir 2015

Michael Pozzan's Dante Pinot Noir, named after his eldest son, Michael Dante Pozzan, and inspired by wines discovered during travels through Italy, presents a selection one might find in the neighborhood trattoria. A unique but interesting and appropriate selection both options of the First Course. 

The 2015 Dante Pinot Noir is medium light bodied, with light opaque burgundy and light purple tones in color. Aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and rose petals, give way to tones of vanilla and lightly roasted coffee with hints of sweet spicy oak and vanilla bean throughout the finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2586300

For the second course soup ..

Château de Respide Graves Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2014

Light straw color with a greenish hue, light medium bodied, slightly green grass and soapy tones accented by wet stone, floral, mineral with sweet pink grapefruit citrus, peach and honey notes with bright but modest light acidity.

RM 85 points.

This is a lovely wine: made from 66% Sémillon and 34% Sauvignon.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2132105




the other middle course wine .....

 Di Giovanna Nerello Mascalese Sicilian Rosato Gerbino

This is a unique Rosato from Sicily made from the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese grape known for expressive aromatics and spice. Aurelio Di Giovanna sourced the fruit from a 100 year old vineyard in Noto in Eastern Sicily where the vine has it’s origins.

The Di Giovanna family has been cultivating their 56 hectares of vineyards for five generations just outside the town of Sambuca di Sicilia in western Sicily. Their wines are made exclusively with their estate fruit with the grapes for this label coming from their Miccina & Paradiso vineyards.

This Rosato di Nerello Mascalese is light medium bodied, soft round textured, rhubarb colored, with bing cherry and red currant fruits with notes of floral violets and mineral on the moderate finish.


RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2110622

For the main entree course ...

Bacchus Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Not to be confused with that other ultra-premium Bachus label, this label is from David Gordon, the wine director at the legendary trendy Tribeca Grill New York City restaurant. Owned by restaurateur Drew Nieporent and actor Robert DeNiro, Tribeca Grill features a highly regarded wine program with a list of over 1800 selections. It is one of only six Wine Spectator Grand Award winner wine lists in New York City.

David created this Bacchus label sourced from many producer contacts he has in Napa and Sonoma. While the wineries that are currently used wish to remain anonymous, producers such as Caymus, Lewis Cellars and Miner Family have provided grapes and helped with the winemaking for earlier cuvees. The result is an incredible high value QPR (quality price ratio) wine at a modest price point.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright and approachable, with balanced flavors of black plum and black currant fruits, tones of cassis, mocha and a touch of earth and cedar, finishing with moderate tannins and oak.

RM 87 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2574676

 The Dessert Course accompaniment ..

Warre's Heritage Ruby NV Port

A nice easy casual sipping accompaniment to the dessert

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield

In downstate Springfield, IL on business, colleague Eric W and I stopped in The Corkscrew wine shop for a casual wine tasting. Primarily a wine shop, they provide a nice selection of wines and a modest selection of cheeses, but also have a wine bar with casual seating for a small wine party or a simple tasting. For an impromptu tasting, we selected the latest release of Clio which was perfect accompaniment to some artisan cheeses - a spectrum of French Brie and Swiss to a bold Danish Blue.

Clio is a label from El Nido, a partnership between the Gil family and Chris Ringland, one of Australia's best known winemakers. The winery is in the Valley of the Aragona, 10 kilometers north of the town of Jumilla. Their vineyards are in the "top boundary", or the area of the highest altitude in the region. They produce Estate wines, (meaning they grow their own grapes) that are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from their 29 acres of vineyards, and the Monastrell varietal from 79 acres of very old vines in small plots. They produce very low yields that result in rich concentrated wines. They have two labels, Clio, a blend of Monastrell accented by Cabernet, and their ultra-premium flagship El Nido which is predominantly Cabernet, accented by Monastrell. They also have a few acres of Syrah that they produce under the label Corteo. Their first vintage release of the brands El Nido and Clio occurred in 2002. They've had a succession of highly rated and acclaimed releases ever since.

Jumilla is the town as well as a Denominación de Origen (DO), the Spanish official designation of an appellation or viticulture growing area, like the American AVA or the French AOC. The area is in the north of the city of Murcia and includes the municipality of its namesake Jumilla and the contiguous southeast of the Albacete province in the Castile-La Mancha region in southeast Spain. The area lies between the Mediterranean coastal area and the high central plateaus of the foothills leading up to the mountains. The altitude of the vineyards vary between 400 and 800 meters which moderates the heat of the climate. There are about 65,000 acres of vineyards in the Jumilla DO, 45% of which are in Murcia and 55% in Albacete. There are about 3,000 grape-growers registered in the region. The widely planted Monastrell grape is the same varietal as France’s Mourvèdre, a common grape in the French Rhone Valley and in Australia. (Monastrell is the 'M' in the red 'GSM' blend from those regions - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre or Monastrell). The Monastrell produced in Jumilla is often considered the best. 

The town of Jumilla is becoming a popular tourist destination along the Jumilla Wine Route that traverses  the Region of Murcia. The city of Murcia is a historic picturesque old town, and the surrounding area produces wines which are becoming ever more recognized at the national and international level.

Clio is the one Spanish wine we collect each year and hold in our cellar in a vertical collection of a series of vintages. It is a consistently high-achieving highly rated wine in a style that we like - big, full bodied, bold, with concentrated forward fruit. I recommend this as a must have in any cellar, for a big thick dense opulent wine to have on hand for impressing guests or anytime tasting enjoyment. At $40, its more suitable for special occasions than an every day wine for most folks. It begs for hearty cheeses, spicy pasta, BBQ or even a charbroiled steak.

Consider the impressive track record for this wine over the last several years. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate scores for this wine: 2003 - 96 points; 2004 - 97 points; 2005 - 95 points; 2006 - 95 points; 2007 - 94 points, 2008 - 94 points, 2009 - 90 points.

This latest release follows in this tradition of a bold wine that provides instant, early gratification, or one that can be aged for several years to settle a bit. As is customary, this Clio is a blend of 70% old vine Monastrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that was barrel-aged for 22-26 months in French and American oak.

The 2014 release bears Clio's hallmark opulence, a powerful, decadent wine with bold aromas and flavors, a thick, dense palate, and a long finish.

Like its traditional lineage of vintages, the 2014 vintage is another huge powerful fruit bomb. Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, 15.5% alcohol with dense concentrated blackberry and black raspberry fruits with layers of complex flavors of dark mocha, graphite, expresso and tongue coating dusty tannins on the big long finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2247520

http://bodegaselnido.com/en/

http://www.thecorkscrew.com/

 

UGCB 2014 Release Tour Chicago

UGCB 2014 Release Tour Chicago

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) annual release tour traversed America this week showcasing their 2014 vintage release wines. The tour visited Miami, New York, Chicago, LA and San Francisco.

Once again, our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped host the event in Chicago at the Drake Hotel in the elegant grand ballroom (shown left). 

Close to one hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over three hundred members of the trade, media and industry.

This annual roadshow is a marathon trek across America by the producers and their representatives offering Americans the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors. We appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the winemakers to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages.

As a collector and holder of a significant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, I hold as many as a dozen vintages or more of some of these labels. Meeting the producer / winemaker / representative is a great privilege and offers one a chance to learn more about their investment and wines. As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.

This was the seventh Bordeaux release event that wine buddies Dr Dan and Lyle accompanied me to assist the team at Balzac Communications to host the event, helping with set up, logistics and then standing in to pour wine for any featured producers that were not able to attend in person. Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. More than once, winter storms delayed or disrupted travel prohibiting some of them to get to Chicago for the event which started our standing in, hence we coined the name the 'pour' boys.


The 2014 vintage showed well in all the wines tasted, generally showing the best of recent years dating back to the highly acclaimed 2010. Following a couple lackluster vintages and quantities of high quality 2009 and '10 in the market, prices for the 2014's should provide reasonable values. They showed well on release and promise to provide early gratification in their youth without holding for several years to reveal pleasant quality drinking.

Some of my observations and highlights of the tasting:

The Margaux appellation was well represented and its wines showed very well with highlights from Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Lascombes, Desmirails and Dauzac. I loved their full complex fruits, nice balance and structure.

Chateau Brane Cantenac, represented by Marie Hélène Dussech, Commercial Director (shown above right) was a standout showing a delightful pronounced floral accent layer. Chateau Dauzac was represented by me, your's truly, standing in for the commercial representative.

Cantenac Brown, represented by technical director José Sanfins (shown left), was highlighted by sweet ripe berry fruits.

Returning to Chicago again and representing Lascombes was director Dominique Befve (left) who has headed up the estate since 2001. Previously he served ten years as technical director of Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Duhart-Milon, after a stint at L’Evangile in Pomerol.

Chateau Desmirails represented by Director Denis Lurton (below) showed some distinctive exotic accent notes of black truffles and mushrooms.

All these wines were memorable and are worth exploring further. I gave all of these wines 92 or + points.

The Paulliac appellation showed well with strong representation from Phelan Segur, Pichon Baron and Clerc Milon.

St Julien seemed to be more subdued with offerings from Chateaus Leoville Barton, Gruaud Larose, Beyechevelle and LaGrange being nicely balanced but a bit tight and closed calling for some time reveal their character and profile. Leoville Poyferre seemed to show a slightly softer more approachable profile.

Chateau Domaine Chevalier was represented by proprietor next generation Hugo Bernard (above left). This was the best feature release from that property in recent memory.

There was a strong showing across the board from Sauterne. Standout highlights included Suideraut showing a pleasant firmness with soft smoke and nut tones, Lefaurie Peyraguey and Haut Peyraguey which both showed nice highlights of citrus and sweet ripe orange and apricot notes.

More to come ...

Ronan Laborde
Director Chateau Clinet

Denis Lurton -
Chateau Desmirails

With David Launay of Chateau
Grand Puy Lacoste

Linda M - Pour Boy Dr Dan

Pamela Wittman - Phelan Segur

Lefaurie-Peyraguey

4 Bordeaux Wine – Great vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of the Medoc. The wines are especially strong the further north you go, with Pauillac and St. Estephe producing really good wine, followed by St. Julien and Margaux. The wines are soft, ripe and display silky tannins with good concentration. Due to their forward style, while age worthy, many of the wines will be fun to drink early. The vintage is mixed in St. Emilion and moderate in Pomerol, with many wines possessing a slightly dilute character. It’s a good vintage for dry, white Bordeaux wine, in a bright, acidic style. Sauternes and Barsac was also successful. Drink or hold. 92 Pts
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-topics/bordeaux-wine-buying-guide-tasting-notes-ratings/bordeaux-wine-vintage-chart/

2014 Bordeaux Wine – Great vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of the Medoc. The wines are especially strong the further north you go, with Pauillac and St. Estephe producing really good wine, followed by St. Julien and Margaux. The wines are soft, ripe and display silky tannins with good concentration. Due to their forward style, while age worthy, many of the wines will be fun to drink early. The vintage is mixed in St. Emilion and moderate in Pomerol, with many wines possessing a slightly dilute character. It’s a good vintage for dry, white Bordeaux wine, in a bright, acidic style. Sauternes and Barsac was also successful. Drink or hold. 92 Pts
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-topics/bordeaux-wine-buying-guide-tasting-notes-ratings/bordeaux-wine-vintage-chart/

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

A quiet Friday night at home in front of the fire with a movie, we had grilled steak, baked apples and this supple casual sipping red Bordeaux Supérieur wine.

Bordeaux Supérieur is another of those designations that adds to the confusion or complexity of Bordeaux wines and therefore makes them somewhat intimidating to many who are trying to decipher the numerous labels. Its not enough that there are over fifty appellations in the greater Bordeaux region, but there are also regional AOC, designations that may be used throughout the region.

Bordeaux Supérieur is one of seven regional Appellations d'origine contrôlée (AOCs) that may be used throughout the Gironde (the river valley that forms the region). They are Bordeaux Rouge AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Blanc, a dry white, and Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc, a sweet white, and Crémant de Bordeaux, a sparkling wine. 

The regional appellations together form the largest world-class wine vineyard, making up more than half of the production of the Bordeaux wine region. and representing more than 55% of all Bordeaux wines consumed in the world.

These generally are entry-level Bordeaux wines, and tend to be fruity and easy-to-drink, suitable for early consumption rather than longer term cellaring. The more ambitious reds are usually sold as Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. As I have written often in these pages, in top vintages, 'all boats rise with the tide', and even these lower priced entry level wines can be very good, even exceptional, offering great high QPR (quality price ratio) values. So look for these designations in years of ideal growing conditions resulting in above average wines for great value.

The Bordeaux Supérieur appellation covers the same geographic area as Bordeaux AOC. They are often produced by single parcels of older vines. In all cases, Bordeaux Supérieur wines must be aged for at least twelve months before they can be sold.

Just like most regular Bordeaux, these are blends, with the reds being predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and increasingly Malbec, and occasionally, some Carmenere. Those produced on the north and easterly side of the Gironde River, known as 'Right Bank' wines, tend to be predominantly Merlot accented by Cabernet, while those on the opposite side (westerly south side - "Left Bank") are primarily Cabernet accented by Merlot, and the lesser accent varietals.

Bordeaux Superieur can be found anywhere in Bordeaux, but most regional Bordeaux AOC wines are produced on the Right Bank. and tend to be from the area north of St. Emilon and Pomerol.

As in all the Bordeaux AOC wines, there are strict rules that govern the vineyards and wines in order to carry the designation label. Under the strict guidelines of French appellation law, for a Bordeaux to be classified as Superieur, it must come from a vineyard that is planted to a specific density with 4,500 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.2 meters between rows, compared to 4,000 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.5 meters between rows for regular Bordeaux. This higher density stresses the vines, since it is harder for the plants to survive, resulting in stronger deeper roots, and generally healthier vines. The result of these practices usually creates a superior wine with a richer and more complex flavor.

Reignac is a large 200-acre vineyard that sits on a high plateau near the village of Saint-Loubès. Reignac are known to produce consistent high achieving wines that are superior to the modest appellation (Bordeaux Supérieur) designation. The proprietors Yves and Stephanie Vatelot turned out a superlative effort in this vintage that is cru classé quality. The 2005 may be one of the all-time great Reignacs.

Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate said of this wine, "Despite its humble appellation, this is a very serious wine that is qualitatively up there with some of the better classified growths of the Medoc." He gave it 90 points.

Deep ruby/purple color, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, black currant and black berry fruits, notes of mocha chocolate, anise, graphite and spice box, moderate concentration and acidity, supple ripe tannin makes for pleasant smooth easy casual drinking.

This 2005 Reignac was 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 89 points. 
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 90 points.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 88-90 points.
Wine Spectator 90 points.

Previously reviewed - http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/12/reignac-bordeaux-superieur-2005.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=212134

Ferrari Carano Siena Sangiovese Malbec Sonoma 2013

 

For a business dinner we dined at Tuscany Restaurant in Oak Brook, one of the Phil Stefani group of eateries.  For my entree I chose the Salsiccia Funghi and Polenta - Italian sausage with wild porcini mushroom sauce and organic polenta. I selected this Sangiovese Malbec red wine blend which was a perfect accompaniment to the brown sauce, sausage and polenta. 

 

The Ferrari-Carano Italian heritage is reflected in this Sangiovese-based, easy sipping blend. The grapes are sourced from vineyards in Sonoma County - Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. The result is a great QPR (quality price ratio) every day red that goes well with food or by itself.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth and soft, blackberry and black raspberry fruits highlighted by a layer of mocha chocolate with hints of toasty vanilla, spicy oak and moderate soft tannins and a lingering finish.

 

RM 88 points. 

http://www.ferrari-carano.com/

 

http://www.tuscanychicago.com/

 

Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1981

Château Léoville Las Cases 1981 St Julien Bordeaux 

Birth and Anniversary Year Wines Spark Gala Family Birthday Dinner

For daughter Erin's birthday celebration dinner, Linda prepared a special Lobster Newburg and beef tenderloin surf and turf. For the seafood course I served Chilean Chardonnay. For the beef tenderloin main course entree, I pulled from the cellar two special selection wines commemorating Eric's birthyear and her anniversary year.

ChâteauLéoville Las Cases Saint-Julien Grand Vin de Léoville 1981 

We served this special birth year Chateau Leoville Las Cases wine in a large format 5 liter Jeroboam (shown left) as part of a collection of large format bottles of birth year wines, at Erin and Johnny's wedding ten years ago this month. So it was fitting to open this label for her birthday dinner on their tenth anniversary. Cellar records show this is our second to last bottle, tempting us on how long we can hold the last one.

This was perhaps the second most exclusive wine served that momentous evening behind the first growth Grand Vin Latour, also served from an Imperial.

Las Cases is considered a 'super second', being the second level designation, second only to the ultra-premium first growths. The Las Cases Chateau, estate and vineyards actually are adjacent to the great Chateau Latour, even though it is in a dfferent appellation, St Julien vs Pauillac for Latour. 

While St Julien, adjacent to Pauillac is the smallest of Bordeaux's most important appellations in terms of acreage, it accounted for a large number of the wines named in the Classification of 1855. Saint-Julien are among my favorite Bordeaux wines, with a profile being elegant, medium weight, with a cedary perfume, solid but rarely aggressive tannic structure, and with considerable aging ability.

Chateau Leoville Las Cases was originally part of a much larger estate that included Leoville-Barton and Leoville Poyferre. They were broken apart back in 1840. For the past five generations, the property has been owned and run by the Delon family. There are 97 hectare of vineyards planted in the classic Bordeaux varietals and proportions, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.

The legendary Grand Vin de Leoville is known for its power and richness, similar to its northerly neighbor, Grand Vin Château Latour. It is very much like its neighbors in the Pauillac appellation with its black fruit and mineral character and firm tannic backbone. In line with its 'super second' reputation, its almost expensive, but much more affordable that its First Growth neighbor (s).

The 1981 Leoville Las Case is/was affordable relative to it neighbor Chateau Latour. Also, the 1981 vintage was vastly overshadowed by the much heralded 1982, considered at the time to be the 'vintage of the century', or one of the top vintages of the century, hence rendering the 1981 a bargain relative to the budget busting 82's. The 1982 Leoville Las Cases received a perfect 100 point rating from Robert Parker, and thus was priced in the stratosphere. All the more that the 1981 was a bargain in comparison. This is much like my recent blogpost on the 1998 Napa Valley vintage, comparing it to its adjacent vintages.

I remember wondering if the somewhat maligned 1981 vintage wines held in our cellar as collectable birth-year wines for daughter Erin's wedding would hold up for the occasion back at the end of 2016. Alas, here we are enjoying this wine ten years later, in its 36th year. Such is the longevity of these classic Bordeaux.

While the fruits may have started to subside somewhat, starting to give way to non-fruit tones, very aromatic and flavorful, classic elegant Bordeaux notes, dark ruby brick colored, medium full bodied, black berry fruits accented by truffle, spicy cedar, tobacco and cigar box, silky smooth, concentrated and superbly balanced, with long lingering nicely integrated tannins on the spicy aromatic finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=13823


More to come ...