Fantesca celebrates newest grand-daughter arrival

Fantesca fantasy label celebrates newest grand-daughter arrival - family fun with Fantesca continues … 

A quiet celebration at home for the arrival of our newest grand-daughter, and her courageous mom, we opened this whimsical label that celebrates a legendary harlequin. Seeking a Cabernet to enjoy paired with a selection of artisan cheeses and pate’, we pulled from the cellar an aged vintage bottle from one of favorite producers, Napa Valley Spring Mountain District, Fantesca. 

(Of course, readers of these pages saw our gala family celebration dinner several weeks ago revealing the name and anticipating Ryleigh’s arrival, featured in this post - Family Celebration Dinner at Mesón Sabika Naperville.)

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

We hold nearly two dozen vintages of this producer, one of our favorites, in our cellar holdings. 

We have been fans of Fantesca since the estate was taken over and the brand was established by Duane and Susan Hoff back with the 2004 vintage release. We hosted new owner/producer Duane Hoff at our home on one of his first release tours when he was traveling the country building the Fantesca brand, then enjoyed visiting the magnificent estate Chateau several times for tastings and tours, as chronicled in these pages in these blogposts:

We tasted and acquired early releases of this label during our visits to the Fantesca Estate on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley. Following meeting and hosting producer Duane Hoff here in Chicago in 2006, we visited the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007, and again in 2011. 

Initially, the early year 2002-2007 vintages from the estate were crafted and managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge - some of our favorite winemakers and producers of a broad collection of wine holdings in our cellar. 

Then in 2008, Fantesca teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. The celebrated winemaker has been referred to as “The Wine Diva of Napa” and as “The First Lady of Wine.” She gained fame and recognition producing exceptional high quality wines that she produced for famous labels.

They then went on to bring on Master Sommelier DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador and evangelist. I met DLynn when he hosted a Penfolds Tasting that featured Legendary Grange at our local Binny's back in 2014, when he was Penfold's Ambassador and Education Director for that icnonic Australian producer. (Grange is one of the signature wines we hold for our son Alec, his birthyear vintage being named #1 Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator). 

What fun to meet DLynn in person, having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix. We enjoyed seeing DLynn on the Amazon Prime Somm III documentary prominently wearing his Fantesca jacket.

We’ve had fun with and featured Fantesca labels in many special and family centric dinners such as this  Wine Dinner Featuring Spring Mountain Wines.

That tasting introduced the inaugural release of a new Fantesca label series inspired by the words of Winston Churchill:  “‘All great things’ are simple, and many can be expressed in a single word: freedom, justice, honor, duty, mercy, hope.”  

 

Each vintage release of the Fantesca “All Great Things” label commemorates one of those notable words from the legendary Churchill quote - freedom (2015), justice (2016), honor (2011, 2017), duty (2012, 2018), mercy (2013), and hope (2014) - this one christened the (first) "Honor" release. 

Fantesca wines have anchored several momentous dinners to follow, featured in these pages’ blogposts - Family Holiday Gathering brings out flight of varied reds, and Father Son World Cup wine tasting and  Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner.

Fantesca wines have also anchored many of our Pour Boys wine groups dinners such as this one -  Sea Smoke Gratis, King Richards, Del Dotto Highlight Beef Tenderloin Dinner; And this one - Pour Boys EM Team Hemmingway’s Dinner.

We featured and wrote about the “All Great Things” label and branding in earlier blogposts in these pages back in April, 2023 - Family birthday dinner at Son Ryan's features a flight of big red wines

This was served by son Ryan at grand-daughter MacKenzie's birthday, when Ryan and D-inlaw Michelle hosted a gala family celebration dinner. At that dinner Ryan served from his cellar several vintage premium wines including this interesting label from Fantesca. “All Great Things”, Freedom 2009.

Tonight, We pulled this bottle from a mixed OWC - Original Wood Case of a mini vertical collection of 2005-06 and ‘07 vintages, selecting the oldest twenty year old 2005 release for enjoying, tasting/pairing. The ultra-premium packaging features oversized etched glass bottles with painted branding identifiers. 

Linda prepared toast points from three different breads, served with two different preserves, Raspberry and Shiraz Blackberry, along with pate’ and olives, and a selection of artisan cheeses - Brie, Swiss, Gouda and English Stilton Blue, 

Always the creative and innovative marketers, Fantesca have fun with their ‘fortune-corkie’ program, featuring notable quotes on the corks, submitted by Fantesca fans. Winners whose quotes are selected are rewarded with magnums of Fantesca wines. 

What fun that tonight, opening Fantesca to celebrate the women in our family, and most notably the arrival of grand-daughter Ryleigh, the fortune cookie whimsically quips about women - from comedian George Carlin! 

We last opened this label BYOB for an anniversary dinner at one of our favorite eateries - Chez Joel French Bistro in Chicago - featured in this post - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/08/fantesca-spring-mtn-napa-cab-for.html.

Fantesca Spring Mtn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

At twenty years of age, the importantly fill level and cork (shown above) were still pristine. This is drinking at the apex of its drinking profile and still has life yet at this level - no need to hurry to consume remaining bottles in the cellar. 

Tonight’s tasting was similar to that BYOB Chez Joel dinner on the patio … The Fantesca was wonderful, a perfect selection for our intimate occasion, and a perfect complement to the Pate plate and then my New York Strip Steak with roquefort, as well as Linda's Salmon and asparagus entree.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, a mouthful of sweet red currant, spicy cinnamon, black cherry, black berry, cedar and lively acid with a long sweet spicy oak finish held together by finely integrated firm tannins.

Interestingly as I write an earlier blogpost, I had pulled and compared my tasting notes to an earlier review of this wine when I wrote' "Over a eleven hundred different wines in the cellar and I chose this one for our intimate anniversary dinner ...."

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355837

https://fantesca.com/

@FantescaWine

Drouhin Chardonnay and Artisan Cheeses …

Drouhin Chardonnay and Artisan Cheeses … 

Watching ‘The Voice, Blind Auditions’ has become one of our enjoyable pursuits spending time together. We pulled out remains of the artisan cheeses we opened the other evening to enjoy. We featured that tasting in this blogpost - Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment.

Linda prepared some Brioche toast points with Shiraz Blackberry preserve/jam and olive oil with shaved parmigiana, and havarti cheese, along with a selection of crackers. 

I pulled from the cellar a rich round Oregon Chardonnay to enjoy for the occasion as wine pairing accompaniment. 

Drouhin Rose Rock Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills Oreon Chardonnay 2022 

This is the American venture of legendary Burgundian producer Maison Joseph Drouhin, whose family have amassed and operated over 250 acres of some of the most prestigious ‘climats’ of Burgundy since 1880, combining the roles of négociant, producer, and above all, owner.

In 1921, Maurice Drouhin purchased his first plot in the terroir known as "Clos des Mouches," located at the southernmost tip of the Beaune appellation area, halfway between Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet. 

Joseph Drouhin took over a long-established business in the historic heart of Beaune in 1918 at the age of 22 and progressed developing and expanding the estate with the ‘finest terroir’ in the region over the following forty years. 

In the 1950s, Joseph’s son Robert Drouhin studied Law in Paris and then pursued Literature in Heidelberg. He returned to Beaune to succeed Maurice, who was unwell, and became the president of Maison Joseph Drouhin at in 1957, at the young age of 24. Following in his father's footsteps, Robert Drouhin took over and continued to expand the family Domaine acquiring numerous Premier and Grand Crus Chablis vineyards, particularly in the Côte de Nuits. 

In the late 1960s, he expanded Drouhin’s presence there, acquiring nearly over 100 acres in the historic heart of the appellation including the XVIII-century Moulin de Vaudon. He established the House's oenology laboratory with one of Burgundy's first woman oenologists, Laurence Jobard. 

With 250 acres, Domaine Joseph Drouhin is currently one of the largest estates in the entire Burgundy wine region with estates spread across Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais. The estate comprises mainly Grand Crus and Premier Crus, planted with the two iconic Burgundian grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

In 1987, Robert establish Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley of Oregon with his daughter Véronique. In 1988, fourth generation Philippe Drouhin, the eldest son of Robert, took over leadership of the Drouhin estate. 

Today, three generations continue the legacy of Maison Joseph Drouhin, led by the four great-grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin. Philippe, Véronique, Laurent, and Frédéric, each holding key positions in the operations. Having grown in the vineyards alongside their father, they hold deep understanding of wine. The fifth generation is also beginning to emerge, with Laurène, the eldest daughter of Véronique, joined the House in 2020.

Through judicious acquisitions and family agreements, Domaine Drouhin produce a portfolio of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; Domaine Drouhin Oregon Arthur Chardonnay, and this Drouhin Oregon Roserock Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills.

Their Pinot Noirs include Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurène, Drouhin Oregon RoseRock Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, and Drouhin Oregon Roserock Pinot Noir Zéphirine.

In 2003, Drouhin purchased the Rose Rock Vineyard at the southern part of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, in the southern Willamette Valley of Oregon. The soils are volcanic, ancient, with an elevation between 120 and 260 meters above sea level. The ideal terroir benefits from a rather unique cooling effect called the Van Duzer corridor and which makes it possible to produce classic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, typical of cool climates. 

Drouhin Rose Rock Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay 2022

This single vineyard designated label is from three select blocks of the Drouhin estate Rose Rock Vineyard.

Tasting Notes by winemaker Véronique Boss-Drouhin - “Nice bouquet with intense floral notes and a discreet touch of hazelnuts. Nice dynamics in the mouth. A wine that has a generous breadth and an attractive finish.“

This label release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Vinous. 

Pale golden straw colored, light to medium bodied, rich, round, vibrant savory notes of Asian pear, green apples, spiced cinnamon, nut and hints of quince, ginger and rosemary spice on a bright expressive acidic finish. 

RM 92 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4815383

https://www.drouhin.com/en_US/wine/drouhin-oregon-roserock-chardonnay-eola-amity-hills/2022

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Cityscape Wine Dinner    

Our Pour Boys wine group gathered in Chicago at Lyle and Terry’s for their nearly annual ‘Winers & Diners’ Cityscape end of summer wine dinner. On a beautiful waning summer/autumn evening, we started on their fabulous deck with partial views of the city skyline, for hors d'oeuvres, appetizers and soup.  

Joining the host and hostess Lyle and Terry, and daughter Abbie, were John coming in from Williamsburg, Ernie, Dan and Linda, coming in from Indiana, Beth and Bill, coming in from Charleston, Leslie and Jorg, and Linda and me (not shown, taking picture).

As usual, Terry and Lyle assisted by their niece, Adrienne Busatti, prepared and served a spectacular extensive menu for the fabulous formal sit-down dinner.

Appetizers: 

Hot individual grilled lamb ribs

Cold shrimp with cocktail sauce

Cheezes, crackers, multiple preparations of deviled eggs, 

Spicy pumpkin soup 

Dinner:

Grilled tenderloin of beef 

Garlic red potatoes

Suspiciously delicious cabbage

Charred asparagus with bacon & truffle salt

Dessert course:

Terry’s incredible signature Mandarin orange cake 

Aunt Iris's Ohio Apple cake

Profiteroles filled with ice cream and sauces or fruit

Followed by Autumn chocolates. Fresh raspberries, shelled pistachios and mixed nuts on the table …

As usual we assembled a fabulous wine flight for each course of the evening starting with Champagnes, White Wines, Red Wines and finishing with Vintage Port. 

John O'Brien rejoined the group traveling in from Williamsburg, and ‘Champagne John’ brought his customary flight of ultra-premium Champagnes -

Krug Brut Champagne 2004 

Bollinger La Grande Annee Champagne 2015

We were rejoined by Jorge and Leslie Balandrin who brought from their home cellar a selection of fabulous ultra-premium white wines …

La Poussie Sancerre 2022

E. Guigal La Doriane Condrieu 2023

Kongsgard Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2021

We then moved to a broad extensive flight of reds featuring red blends from the Right Bank, then the Left Bank of Bordeaux, following by a line-up of usual suspects, our favorite producers’ flagship labels. 

As usual, I spent time carefully preparing and tasting the wines to establish the suggested tasting order for the evening, as shown below, accordingly, which was curated and validated throughout the evening:

 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2005

Château Lafon Rochet St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2005 

Château Leoville Las Cases Grand vin Leoville du Marquis St Julien 2016 

Château Cos d’Estournel St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2009

Moving to the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons … 

Plumpjack Founder’s Reserve Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Hall Wines Napa Valley Kathryn Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosche’ Vineyard Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

 Following with the dessert course accompaniment:

Niepoort Vintage Port 1997 

Many thanks to Lyle and Terry for hosting, and to those that traveled from afar, and to everyone for bringing some spectacular wines for a joyous and memorable evening. 

PS. 

Notes and Notable - 

WOTN - Wine of the Night for several (including me) was the Phelps Insignia - dark and brooding, big bold expressive firm structured full bodied black fruits with notes of cedar, cigar box, dark mocha chocolate - actually a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Biggest and most expressive Insignia ever experienced. 

Second WOTN - Crowd Pleaser …. Kathryn Hall - dark garnet colored, sensuous, silky smooth polished, elegant, opulent, sweet ripe dark berry fruits with sweet mocha, sweet tannins - another blend - 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot.

Another WOTN candidate - Cos d’Estournel - bright garnet - medium to full bodied, surprisingly big, bold, forward and expressive black berry fruits - sumptuous round smooth tannin laced finish. Best Cos on memory! 

Freemark Abbey Bosche’ - surprisingly big, bold, forward, expressive black berry & cherry fruits - almost obtuse, needed time to settle - more approachable on day two. 

BV Georges de Latour - Surprise high achiever - big bold, expressive, complex, earthy, smoky dark berry fruits with notes of black tea, creosote and tobacco on moderate tannin finish. 

Leoville Las Cases - Surprisingly subdued, lacking bold or expressive sprites - elegantly balanced - perhaps going through remissive closed phase …  flawless?

Plumpjack Founders Reserve - Going on thirty - fill level and cork still pristine - dark garnet - barnyard funky on opening, needed decant and two hours to reveal full round black berry fruits with spice, tobacco, cedar and leather finish. Also better on day two. 

Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off continues with red wine tasting with blue cheese assortment 

Following our Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner, early dinner on the eve of our Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner, we came home and had a relaxed evening socializing, catching up, and sipping some wines with artisan cheeses and fresh fruits. 

Inspired by the special feature in the current issue of Wine Spectator on blue cheeses paired with wines, I had gone out and picked up selection of Murray’s Blues - Cotswald, Cave Gorgonzola, Blue Stilton and Smokehaus Blue. We enjoyed these with assorted biscuits/crackers and fresh berries, pears and apples. 

All of these were fabulous and enhanced the wine pairing with the red wines. I especially liked the Cotswald and the Blue Stilton! 

We have many wines in our cellar acquired with fellow Pour Boy Bill, or tasted at special tastings or wine producer visits together. So it is that we pull these to revisit with Bill when the occasion arises. One such wine is from Arns on Howell Mountain that we visited together during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013 as featured in this blogpost - Arns Napa Valley Estate Vineyards Visit. We tasted and acquired this label at the winery that day.

Here we are with John Arns in the Arns Winery and Vineyarda barrel room. 

Arns "Estate Grown" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

We first discovered Arns in Washington DC at Andy Bassin’s MacArthur Wines. Co-producer Sandy Belcher hails from Virginia and would take wine back to supply MacArthurs during her pilgrimages home. 

This release was part of the flight of Arns Cabs we tasted and subsequently acquired at the winery during our visit in 2013. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Connoisseur’s Guide, 89 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Dark garnet colored with purple hues, medium to full-bodied, focused, concentrated, structured blackberry and blackcurrant fruit flavors with notes of dark mocha chocolate, cassis and expresso on a lingering tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2445860

Another joy of having a cellar collection is to share favored wines with friends. Trolling the cellar, Bill came across and was eager to try this producer label which we opened to enjoy with the cheeses and fruits. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pirouette 2017

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases.

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled one of the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to a recent earlier release tasting. We supplemented our wine club allocation with several bottles of this label acquired at auction, which we opened tonight. 

As I wrote in a recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, this is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. 

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

This label is produced in collaboration with legendary winemakers Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, and Agustin Huneeus, Sr., another legendary wine producer. 

We visited their initial collaborative project, August Huneeus’ Quintessa Vineyards, crafted by Philippe Melka, as part of our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2003.  

I’ve written about Philip Melka numerous times in these pages including that tasting at Sullivan’s Steakhouse post and previously - Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016. I featured Huneeus in a recent blogpost here - Faust Napa Cab with St Pat’s Dinner.

We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection in these pages, including our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA), as part of Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tastings in Woodinville.

The 2017 Pirouette is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 13% Malbec, and the rest Petit Verdot, crafted from small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards.  It was aged 22 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new.

 

Winemaker notes - “The Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from a collection of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, gives Pirouette the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize this acclaimed growing region. A small percentage of old vine Cabernet from Sagemoor Vineyard, planted in 1972, adds complexity. Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine. Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills adds spice. Finally, Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot enhances the wine’s color and contributes to the wine’s layers of intense aromas and flavors.’

“The 2017 Pirouette has an expressive nose with a firm core of dark fruit and mocha flavors, displaying a layered concentration of black cherry and well-integrated oak spices. Vibrant and full-bodied across the mid-palate, this is a texturally pleasing wine with a broad and lengthy finish.” 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and International Wine Report, 94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 93 by Steve Tanzer.

Dunnuck wrote - “It can be drunk today but will develop additional complexity with 3-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades or more.”

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant expressive expressive vibrant blackberry, plum and black currant fruits with savory accents of cinnamon and clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and crème de cassis with smooth polished tannins on a sumptuous finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3581703

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3581703

https://longshadows.com/library/pirouette/6951

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

@unwindwine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/big-reds-with-tomahawk-beefsteaks.html?spref=tw

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner at Entourage DG

In town for our Pour Boys Wine Group Fall Winers & Diners Gala dinner, Bill and Beth C came in from Charleston and stayed with us. 

We kicked off the weekend taking them to our latest favorite restaurant, Entourage DG for Friday afternoon dinner. 

On a beautiful exceptionally warm autumn afternoon, we dined 'al fresco‘, outside on the bustling sidewalk, across the street from and overlooking the train station amidst the high energy continuous commuters off the express trains arriving from downtown (Chicago). 

We had from our usual favorite “Social Hour” special selections, the Focaccia Bread and Deviled Eggs, along with the Spring Rolls. 

For our entrees, we all ordered their delicious Waygu Beef sliders, Filet Medallions with Horseradish Cream, Pickled Onion, Oven Roasted Roma Tomato and Arugula on a Mini Brioche bun.
.

For a wine accompaniment, we ordered with the starters, from the wine list, the Kokomo Sonoma County Chardonnay. Then, with the beef entrees, I brought BYOB from our home cellar this Napa Cabernet Big Red Blend.

We’ve featured this wine in numerous previous blogposts as excerpted here.

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2023

This is from family owned and operated Kokomo Winery that was started by Owner and Winemaker Erik Miller in 2004, a fellow Hoosier, who named it after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana, which is near Linda’s hometown and family farm in North Central Carroll County, Indiana.

The Winery sits on the East side of Dry Creek Valley, twenty miles north of Santa Rosa, off the main route 101, midway between the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville. The winery and tasting room is located at Timber Crest Farms, sitting amid 120 acres of vineyards, overlooking the valley.

Kokomo produces over a dozen different varietal wines and several single vineyard designated labels which are farmed by his partner in the winery, grower Randy Peters. Kokomo Wines strive to showcase the terroir of the their vineyard sources in the three distinctive appellations of Sonoma County - Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. They also offer some wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain District.

This Peter’s Vineyard Designated label is 100% Chardonnay sourced from a site in the Russian River Valley, west Sebastopol, next to Luther Burbank's Farm where the soil is rich with Goldridge sandy loam. There the vines are exposed to consistent coastal fog, which calls for extended hang time and more development for the fruit.

I was a bit hesitant to order this bottle, especially to be paired with such a magnificent dinner, since our awareness of Kokomo is more modest entry level wines, less discriminating than the premium and ultra-premium labels we tend to enjoy.

We see their entry level labels widely distributed but have never had any of their more premium labels. Note they show two dozen different offerings on their website. Never-the-less I gave it a shot and found it to be an over-achiever to my perception of the brand, meeting our hopeful expectations for suitably pairing with our dinner.

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2023

Winemaker notes for this release - “Planted in West Sebastopol, this is a premier location for Chardonnay. The vineyard is next to Luther Burbank’s Farm and the soil composition is rich Goldridge Sandy Loam. With the consistent coastal fog extending hang time well into October, this fruit is fully developed and loaded with complexity. The Chardonnay is comprised of Clones 4 and 76.’

Continuing, Winemaker notes for this release remain the same as with the previous vintage: “Reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy but with a California twist, this Chardonnay displays vibrant minerality accompanied by the mouth-watering natural acidity typically found in Peters Vineyard. Stirring the lees (Sur Lie) was performed to this lot consistently once per week through malolactic fermentation. We feel like this gives the wine body, texture and depth while maintaining its graceful acidity and restraint. This Chardonnay is elegant enough to pair with delicate foods and delicious enough to drink by itself after a long day.”

This is 100% Chardonnay, Sourced from Russian River Valley Appellation, and was aged 11 months in 100% French Oak, 30% New..

While I gave it the same rating, this release had a slightly different profile.


Straw colored, light to medium bodied, tangy crisp acidity highlights a predominant layer of vanilla that overshadowed the subtle pear, spice and peach tones of the earlier release, accented by light sprites of oak on a pleasurable moderate finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5165863

https://www.kokomowines.com/store/?view=product&slug=23ch

https://www.kokomowines.com/

As noted above, we followed with the beef entrees, this Napa Cabernet Big Red Blend that I brought BYOB from our home cellar.

Rubissow Napa Valley Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

We visited the Rubissow estate vineyards and winery, high atop Mount Veeder, with Bill and Beth as well as Eric and Cathy and Dan and Linda, from our Pour Boys wine group during our Napa Valley Mount Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011. 

I featured that estate visit and tasting in these pages in this blogpost, excerpted here:

Mt Veeder Appellation Trail - Rubissow Mt Veeder Vineyards

Mt Veeder Appellation Trail - Rubissow Mt Veeder Vineyards 

As was our custom, learned over the years after many trips to wine country, we learned to focus and concentrate on but one appellation per trip. Too often, folks try to take in too much, visiting properties geographically disbersed resulting in racing from one site to the next, traveling distances against the clock to meet the next appointment. 

This trip, we concentrated on just the Mount Veeder appellation, vastly simplifying travel from site to site, literally starting at the top of the mountain and working our way down to the valley.  

Named for the mountain at the southern end of the Mayacamas Mountain range that forms the western wall of Napa Valley, Mount Veeder is Napa’s largest sub-AVA. 

While the entire appellation is spread over 16,000 acres, vineyards cover only about 1,000, primarily in the the upper elevations of the Mayacamas Mountain, the highest point being at 2,400 feet.

Back at that time, only about 25 wineries produced wine from Mount Veeder fruit.

Mount Veeder was one of the earliest wine producing areas in Napa County with winemaking in the appellation dating back to 1864, when Captain Stelham Wing presented the first Mount Veeder wine to the Napa County Fair. That came from what remains today as Wing Canyon Vineyard. 

After the Prohibition interruption of the wine trade, viticulture and wine production was revitalized with the founding of Mayacamas Vineyards in 1951 and Bernstein Vineyards in 1964.

One of the highlights of our Napa Valley Mt Veeder appellation wine experience was our visit to Rubissow Vineyards. 

We also visited Yates Family Vineyards and Winery high atop Mt Veeder. 

Rubisow was founded by George Rubissow and Tony Sargent back in the 1960's when George also struck up a friendship with, and gained invaluable advice from the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. They developed the Mt.Veeder estate and planted Bordeaux varietals. 

When we visited back in 2011, after twenty-five years, George was in the process of handing over operations of the vineyards and production to the next generation, Ariel and Peter Rubissow who were in their third year carrying on the family tradition of quality crafted mountain vineyard wines.

George Rubissow and the original 
Rubissow Sargent Label. 

Rubissow Wine Flight

This label was among the flight of wines we tasted that day and was arguably, the WOTN - Wine of the Night(Day). :

Rubissow Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

While this is labeled a Cabernet Sauvignon, appropriate since it is more than 75% of that varietal, this is actually a Bordeaux Blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot , 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot.

Out tasting notes from that original tasting: 

Complex, concentrated, full bodied - winemaker notes - deep brambly richness, black currant, graphite, clove, kirsch, raspberry jam, smoke, dark caramel.

RM 92 points.

Winemaker Notes -  On the nose, this wine offers aromas of red cherry, blueberry, plum, mocha, vanilla bean and caramel -- with hints of lavender, rosemary and raspberry leaf. A youthful mountain wine with amazing complexity. The palate shows plum, cherry and raspberry flavors, with good tannins and bright acidity.

This was rated 92 points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast

Tonight, at 20 years, the label, foil, and most importantly the fill level and the cork, were still in good condition, although the cork was starting to soften. 

Amazingly consistent with that original tasting back in 2011, this was still drinking at its prime and has several more years of prime drinking yet. 

Much as noted earlier, Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, dense, concentrated, deep brambly black currant fruits with earthy tobacco and leather, graphite, clove spice, kirsch, smoke and hints of dark bitter chocolate on the long slightly astringent tannin laced finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1042516

The Rubissow hilltop vineyard looks south to the Carneros District with views in the distance of Mt Diablo to the west of San Francisco Bay and Mt Tamalpais in Marin, to the north of the Golden Gate. 

Rubissow Hilltop Vineyard looking out to San Pablo Bay

George telling the Rubissow Story to porch tasters

Rick and Linda with George Rubissow

Rick and Bill with George Rubissow

Rubissow Hilltop Vineyard

Rubissow Road Vineyard

Tasting on the porch at Rubissow

Rubissow's Barbara Jura leading estate grounds walk

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

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I brought BYOB from our home cellar this Napa Cabernet blend