Friday, March 14, 2025

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner

Pour Boys Norwegian Salmon Pinot Noir Dinner 

Fellow Pour Boy Dr Dan and Linda hosted us for a Friday Night fine wine dinner. They missed our OTBN abbreviated gathering due to extensive travel in Australia and NZ. Our annual OTBN Wine Extravaganza Weekend this year found our Pour Boys Wine Group fragmented with folks traveling, so we set a raincheck for a future get-together. In any event, Linda and I traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth


Linda prepared a delicious fresh catch Norwegian Salmon in a spinach tomato butter cream sauce with balsamic rice and cooked carrots, with a side Caesar Salad. 

Dan served an extensive wine flight starting with vintage Champagne, then Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and finishing with a TBA dessert wine. I supplemented the flight with a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir from our cellar. 

Wine flight served/tasted right to left.

Prior to dinner, with the champagne, Dan and Linda served shrimp cooked in garlic butter lemon sauce with a selection of artisan cheeses, aged sharp cheddar, havarti and a sweet Swiss, with crackers and marmelaide, charcuterie and mixed nuts. 

Veuve Doussot ‘Ernestine’ Champagne 2015

This vintage Champagne is a blend of predominantly Pinot Noir and some smaller amount of Chardonnay, typical of the Aube region of Champagne.

Golden colored, bright expressive full gripping palate of ripe apple, apricot and citrus fruits with a layer of nut tones and accents of mineral and brioche with bold acidity on the finish.

RM 90 points. 

It was rated 91 points by Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast.


Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020

Chateau Montelena is one of the most historic and pre-eminent labels Napa Valley dating back to 1882, the same producer we took to our wine dinner at Oak Restaurant Charleston recently, when we we traveled to Charleston (SC) for an abbreviated OTBN get together with fellow wine buddy & Pour Boy Bill C, and Beth

It was this classic flagship label from this legendary producer Chateau Montelena that in 1976 gained international acclaim for not only the winery, but for Napa Valley and the US wine industry with the monumental and historic ‘Judgement of Paris wine tasting event’. That tasting event was chronicled in Time Magazine in the June 1976 issue.

That blind tasting by the venerable who’s-who of the French wine and food industry at the Inter-Continental Hotel in Paris pitted four white Burgundies against six California Chardonnays. The French Judges presumed the top-ranking white wine was one of their own, but it was Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay, that was rated above all other wines. This seminal event was memorialized in the book "The Judgment of Paris," by George Taber, and was the basis for the 2008 feature film “Bottle Shock”.

Not just wine aficionados, everyone will enjoy watching the entertaining classic movie "Bottle Shock" that chronicles the early days of Napa Valley, early winemakers, and Chateau Montelena, and its legendary finishing first in the epic competition tasting between American and French wines back in 1976. 

The modern era began in 1968, when Jim Barrett purchased the estate and set about replanting the vineyard, outfitting the winery with modern equipment, and applying every effort towards producing the highest quality wines.  

We visited the historic Chateau up in the north end of Napa Valley back in the early nineties, before I was blogging and writing about such activities. 

We had fun with the famous event with a wine dinner featuring wines from the historic tasting, featured in these pages - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines - Dinner Features Judgement of Paris Wines to Commemorate the Tasting event's Anniversary

The Chateau Montelena estate just north of Calistoga with it’s historic 19th century stone Chateau is surrounded by exceptional vineyards with a complex mix of soils, slopes and an ideal climate for producing wines to complete with the great First Growths of France. 

Master Winemaker Bo Barrett, Jim’s son, now runs the estate with the help of Winemaker Matt Crafton and Vineyard Manager Dave Vella.

This 2020 release was awarded 93 points by Decanter and by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. 

This is 100% Chardonnay that matured 10 months in French oak.

Winemaker Matt Crafton notes on the 2020 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay: "The parade of citrus marches on, although the midpalate turns more tropical with starfruit and pineapple. And while there’s still plenty of green apple, the texture and juiciness of Asian pear adds complexity and depth. The acid is consistent and winds its way through the profile, lifting the texture and balancing the suppleness from barrel. This will be a long-lived wine."

“Bright gold in the glass, the parade of citrus marches on, opens with green apple, honeysuckle although the midpalate turns more and orange blossom, citrus in tropical with starfruit and pineapple. particular seems to be most evident, And while there’s still plenty of green as lime leaf and lemon zest at this apple, the texture and juiciness of stage. This vintage was more classic Asian pear adds complexity and depth. rather than overly ripe. The acid is consistent and winds its way surprising. There’s a hint of fresh through the profile, lifting the texture wood and vanilla as well, adding and balancing the suppleness from some nuance without overshadowing barrel. ˜is will be a long-lived wine. the beautiful floral character. ˜e transition to the finish is still somewhat abrupt due to the wine’s youth and dynamism.˜

Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp, steely notes of tart citrus, apple and tangerine fruits with notes of minerality on a full round acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 


https://montelena.com/

Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ Rita’s Crown Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2016

This limited production single vineyard designated label is from boutique winery Chateau Boswell which remains among a handful of privately owned family wineries amidst the 554 wineries in the Napa Valley in a time when so many have been taken over by the large consolidated corporate brands. 

Founded in 1985 by Richard Thornton Boswell when there were less than a hundred Napa Valley producers, who sold mostly through distribution, he had the foresight to focus on small lot French Style wines to be sold directly to the client. 

Initially, they produced wines from Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at the stone winery sourced from estate vineyards along the Silverado Trail in Saint Helena. Since then, over the last 25 years, under the direction of Boswell’s wife Susan, they have expanded the portfolio to include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from California’s most treasured vineyards. 

Famed legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff produced those early wines, eventually overseen by consulting winemakers, Philippe Melka and Keith Hock, in collaboration with Chateau Boswell Winemaker Allison Nunnikhoven.

This single vineyard designated Chateau Boswell ‘Absolutely Eloise’ label is from estate Sta. Rita Hills Rita’s Crown vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The rocky terrain and super steep slopes are in the cool–climate area, heavily influenced by the proximity of the Pacific Ocean, are ideal for producing world-class Pinot Noir. The proximity of east-west aspect of the Santa Rosa and Santa Rita Hills allow the cool ocean fog to flow through the Santa Ynez River Valley. 

The chalky marine and volcanic soils are void of nutrients forcing the vines to struggle resulting in tiny intense clusters that produce wines with distinctive terroir driven flavor profiles. 

Recent vintages of this label were awarded 98 and 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Dark garnet colored medium to full bodied, rich and focused nicely balanced blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by notes of classic Pinot Noir dusty rose petals, leather, smoked herbs and violets with ripe tannins on a smooth polished lingering finish.

RM 94 points. 


Summer Dreams “Twilight” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

This is an another limited production, ultra-premium label, from Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal producer, Jayson Woodbridge, an investment banker from Toronto, Canada who established and operates Hundred Acre Winery. 

From 1989, after visiting vineyards in Canada, Switzerland and France, to the late 1990s, with several investors and partners, Jayson and his wife Helen Mawson, a New Zealand native and US citizen, founded Hundred Acre, ultimately buying out their partners and taking over as sole owners. 

With no winemaking experience, Woodbridge quickly showed his aptitude for learning from luminary winemakers including St Helena-based Philippe Melka. Over the following decade they produced no less than 61, 100-point scores Napa based Bordeaux varietals!.

Over the last decade they turned their attention to producing cool climate Pinot Noir labels from the unique soils and extreme conditions of the West Sonoma Coast in the Sonoma Coast AVA. Sonoma County’s largest AVA extends from San Pablo Bay on the south to Mendocino County in the north. 

Adjacent to the Pacific with its cool coastal climate, with more than twice the annual rainfall of its inland sub-regions in other parts of Sonoma County, these Sonoma Coast sites are warm enough to ripen wine grapes because the vineyards are at elevations above the fog line. 

Branded under the ‘Summer Dreams’ labels, the wines are crafted by winemaker Ashley Holland. “I came up with Summer Dreams because I love summer,” said Woodbridge. “You can still get summer in the winter with these wines. They are made the same way that Hundred Acre is made, coming from very low-yielding vineyards in the Sonoma Coast, sorted berry by berry.”

Ashley’s wine career spanned California and Oregon, and Australia, New Zealand, and Uruguay, working with noted winemakers Bill Price, Bob Cabral, and Ryan Prichard. She was a natural fit with legendary Woodbridge. Ashley and Jayson explored over a hundred vineyards before selecting sites, slope, Goldridge soils, and vine age as their primary qualifiers.

“We give Ashley everything she needs, but we leave it to her. We’re not trying to steal her thunder; we’re her spiritual guides.”

This ‘Twilight’ label is 100% Pinot Noir from the West Sonoma Coast sub-regions Annapolis and Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs.  Annapolis is in the remote northwest corner of the Sonoma Coast AVA near Sea Ranch, the coolest region of the AVA due not only to the close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, but also the 500 to 800-foot elevation of the vineyards that puts them in the foggy and windy inversion layer that sweeps up the Wheatfield Fork of the Gualala River.

Fort Ross-Seaview is the most coastal of the Sonoma Coast AVA’s sub-regions, located on the far western edge of the AVA, and closest to the Pacific Ocean. The region is characterized by steep, rugged mountains and ridges that rise up from the ocean, and is home to some of the most dramatic vineyard sites in California.

Winemaker notes for Twilight Pinot Noir - “The full-bodied palate beams with flavors of wild blueberries and licorice, white pepper and cloves that lead to an undercurrent of violet. Seductive, with a velvety texture and seamless freshness, this Pinot Noir finishes long.’

“A dark-edged Pinot Noir with dark fruit, black cherry, and black plum with hints of the salty sea-spray and misty fog rolling into the Sonoma Coast from the Pacific Ocean.’

“Twilight is the most powerful time in life, the point between light and darkness, between day and night, when we are at our most productive, and this wine, according to proprietory Jayson Woodbridge, embodies all that. 'It has incredible staying power, showcasing Pinot Noir at its most muscular—like a warrior Pinot. It will carry you through the darkest times,' he says, and indeed, it does carry the light and dark as it unfurls with black cherry and spiced plum fruits, dark chocolate, and saline minerals. Its rich, creamy, and powerful character is underscored by fabulous minerality and brisk acidity. This wine makes a compelling argument for the power of Pinot—never underestimate it. Jayson doesn’t care if you accept the style; he makes it boldly and unapologetically. 'It’s like the Darth Vader of Pinot—dark, intense, yet undeniably good,' he says. Fabulous umami notes of long-roasted beef and intense charred mineral character, seaweed, and everything the ocean can deliver in your glass are also present. 

Blind tasted, few would select this as a Pinot Noir with its rich, dense, concentrated full round dark fruits and might think it a Syrah or a Bordeaux varietal. The give-away is the dusty rose petal ripe, succulent black cherry and black plum fruits with savory soy minerality and firm but elegant polished lingering finish. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4607724

https://summerdreamswines.com/sonoma-pinot-noirs

Kracher Nouvelle Vague ‘#2” Chardonnay Trockenberenausliese (TBA) 2002 

We finished with this delicious unctuous dessert wine with pie with fresh berries and an assortment of chocolates. 

This is from the estate established by Alois Kracher Sr., grandfather to the current generation proprietors, a pioneer who recognised the potential of the region long before many of his peers. Alois Senior produced prized sweet wines from noble rotten grapes well before it was widely practiced. 

The Kracher Winery lies in the Seewinkel area of Austria´s Burgenland. Here, through the evaporative periods of Lake Neusiedl, the evening fog and the warm Pannonian climate, continuous warm-humid weather patterns are dominant and, therefore, allow for Botrytis cinerea to be generated. This is what provides the basis for the fantastic sweet wines such as Beerenauslese and this Trockenbeerenauslese.

Next generation Alois Kracher Jr., “Luis” Kracher, was also one of the greatest visionaries in winemaking and was a driving force behind the “Austrian wine wonder” during the 1990s and was instrumental in the renaissance of noble sweet wines. Trained as a chemist, he began his winemaking career at his father’s estate when he was twenty-two years old before his tragic premature death at the age of thirty. Alois Kracher, who died in December 2007, is remembered as one of the most important ambassadors for Austrian Wine all over the world.

Today, third generation Gerhard Kracher manages the estate with his life partner Yvonne, taking over on the passing of his father in 2007. From 2001, Gerhard gradually increased his responsibilities, representing the winery at international presentations promoting the ‘joie de vivre’ in the South of France, always looking ahead to experiment with new trends and innovations. 

Gerard created a new style of dessert wine, in which the fruit character, finesse and balance of the wine was far more important that just mere sweetness. The 1991 vintage brought Kracher international acclaim, and since, his name has become synonymous with cult sweet wines, especially in America. 

The Kracher portfolio includes the grape varieties Welschriesling, Chardonnay, Traminer, Scheurebe, Muskat-Ottonel and, from time to time even Zweigelt, Alois Kracher created each year 10 to 15 different Trockenbeerenauslesen wines in two different styles.

Zwischen den Seen (“in between the lakes”) are the wines which are matured in large wooden barrels or steel tanks, and undergo long yeast contact in order to deliver freshness, fruit und primary grape aromas into the bottle. The wines of the Nouvelle Vague line are marked by barrique ageing with air exchange during maturation. They are vivid and lively in taste, depth, spiciness and length, these wines notable characteristics.

Representing a small family business amongst the big wine dynasties of the world, Alois Kracher has gained widespread recognition and numerous awards including being honoured by Great Britain´s renowned Wine Magazine with the coveted "Wine Maker of the Year" title for an impressive seven times - in 1994, 1997, 1998, 2000, 2001, 2006 and 2008.

The range offered by what is undoubtedly the most widely known Austrian wine estate features the world-famous Trockenbeerenauslesen as well as Beerenauslesen, Auslesen, Eiswein (ice wine) and small amounts of dry white and red wines.

We hold a dozen labels of Kracher wines in our collection going back almost three decades. I acquired this label upon release, long ago, and shared a couple bottles of with Dan back at that time. 

Winemaker notes for this Chardonnay Nouvelle Vague - offers aromas of pineapple, apple jelly and brown spice. The palate is creamy and thickly-rich, full of spiced apple, honey, and butterscotch, and the finish solid but overtly sweet and – at least as yet – relatively simple. 

This was awarded 94 points by European pundit Falstaff, 90 points by Wine Spectator and 89 by The Wine Advocate. 

These sweet dessert wines in top vintages can age for several decades. Starting out straw colored they darken as they age turning golden, the hues of weak tea, and if held long enough darken to almost coffee color. 

Consistent with note from I first reviewed this wine back in 2011 when I wrote, "Honey color - full bodied, thick, chewy apricot, hints of grapefruit citrus, touch of pineapple and smoke."

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=50493

http://www.kracher.at/en/

Wednesday, March 12, 2025

Meatloaf, Sweet Potatoes and Andrew Will Two Blondes Red Blend

Meatloaf, Sweet Potatoes and Andrew Will Two Blondes Yakima Valley Red Blend

On our first night back home from family vacation, Linda prepared a delectable diner of meatloaf with roasted carrots, potatoes and sweet potatoes. I pulled from the cellar a perfect wine that proved to be a wonderful pairing that enhanced the enjoyment of the dinner as well as the wine. 

The blend of this label was exactly what I was seeking … nearly similar amounts of nicely balanced and integrated Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Cabernet Franc for a nicely balanced, complex wine. 

I have a mini vertical (multiple vintages of same label) of this label dating back two decades to 2003, that I have been holding for the chance to drink with fellow wine buddy and Pour Boy Bill C. This is based on fun with the label that bears the name of two of his sons, Andrew and Will, as well as of the producer. With Bill and Beth having moved away to Charleston, our wine escapades are vastly fewer. Having just returned from a wine weekend together - OTBN 2025 in Charleston, it was a fitting time to try this wine which proved to be a perfect pairing with the dinner. 

This is from Andrew Will Cellars winery located in Zillah Washington, just outside of Yakima which is named for the two sons of owner winemaker Chris Camarda. Following a successful career on Wall Street, Chris founded the winery, releasing his first vintage back in 1989. His focus was ‘the primacy of the vineyard over variety’. "I believe that an individual piece of property can form a signature—an identity—and it is that face that is the focus of my winemaking."

The first two vineyards used were Ciel du Cheval and Champoux, later to be supplemented with fruit from May’s Discovery and Two Blondes vineyards. 

After a decade of purchasing fruit from top vineyards in Washington State, Chris plant his own vineyard, Two Blondes, in 2000. This enabled him to not only control the varietals planted which are the Bordeaux varietals but also the clones. Clonal variety was particularly important to him as a winemaker. The 30 acre vineyard located in the Yakima Valley AVA was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. The vineyard manager was and is Chris Hoon.

Andrew Will produce about 4500 cases of wine a year. In addition to blends they produce from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, they also produce some limited Sangiovese from fruit grown at Ciel du Cheval. 

In the early years they produced varietal bottlings but in 2003 they took a vow “to make as fine a wine as we could through blending the most important varieties we grow in Washington”. 

Our holdings of this producer all date back to and from that 2003 vintage, all acquired at auction. 

Chris was named as one of the 50 most influential winemakers in the world, he has been an innovative leading producer of Washington State wines and became known for single vineyard blends.

The Two Blondes Vineyards is named for Chris Camarda’s late wife, Annie, who was a 6’2” blonde, and their partner in the vineyard, Bill Fleckenstein’s wife, Melody, who is also blonde.

Camarda selected the 30 acre site because of the excellent grape soil and climate. Two Blondes is not threatened by freezes as well as being just cool enough to insure a modulated ripening process even in warm years. The site has none of the draw backs they see in some areas of the state that can alternate between devastating freezes and heat in excess of 100 degrees.. 

Andrew Will Cellars Two Blondes Vineyards Washington State Yakima Valley Red Wine 2004

This Bordeaux Blend is a single vineyard designated label sourced from their estate vineyard. This release was a blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot. Later releases of this label (2018) were aged 35% new French oak for 22 months with just under 7,000 bottles produced.

At twenty years of age, I was concerned this might be past its primacy but this was absolutely delicious, exceeding our expectations, clearly at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve any further with aging. This was a Goldilocks wine, appealing to Linda who prefers younger more expressive wines, and me who enjoys those with more complexity and maturity. 

The label, foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced, silky smooth and polished, seductive integrated and balanced with ripe black and blue fruits with notes of sweet mocha, anise, spices, hints of lavender and tobacco leaf, with long lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 



Sunday, March 9, 2025

Extraordinary Dinner Hawaiian Fresh Fish and Finest Wines

Hawaiian Fresh Fish Specialities with Fine Wines for an Extraordinary Dinner

Our adventure in Kauaii, Hawaii continues with a dine-in evening of fine wines and fresh seafood. Son Ryan picked up at the local fresh market and prepared Ono and Monchong fish for dinner. 

Monchong is a deep-water fish found in the Pacific Ocean in Okinawa, Fiji, and Hawaiian waters. In the Indian Ocean it is can be found in the western part of the equatorial zone. 

We’re told Monchong is a rare delicacy, harvested in small quantities because its not targeted by fisherman, but caught when fishing for tuna at deep water depths greater than 900 feet or using other techniques, deeper than 1200 feet. 

Monchong range from about 4 pounds to over 25 pounds, but the prime market sizes are fish over 12 pounds.. It is sold primarily to restaurants as an exotic fish to add variety to their menu.  

Monchong, also known as Hawaii Sickle Pomfret, has a highly transparent, clear, white flesh with pinkish tones, white when cooked. It is firm in texture and moderate in flavor. 

It is rich in nutrition with a high oil content, it is an excellent source of healthy, extra lean protein, low in saturated fat and low in sodium. It is rich in niacin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, phosphorus, and selenium, it is a good source of iodine. 

We also had Ono, which not coincidentally is both an edible fish but also the Hawaiian word for delicious. Ono, aka “wahoo,” is versatile like mahi mahi but more mild in flavor — kind of sweet and buttery but firm and smooth in texture. 

Both fish were as fresh as one could possibly experience, and absolutely delicious, the Monchong was especially succulent and delectable. 

Ryan and Michelle also prepared with the dinner a fresh salad, cooked carrots and haricot verts, served with fresh sourdough bread with mango marmelaide.  

After dinner we fresh fruit and macademia nut chocolates. 

With the spectacular dinner we had two extraordinary ultra-premium wines. Ryan brought from home an aged vintage Napa Valley Dominus.

For pairing with the seafood entrees, I went into town and found at Princeville Wine Market an ultra-premium Sonoma County Chardonnay which was fabulous, perfectly paired to enhance the enjoyment of both the food and the wine.   

The spectacular dinner was fitting for the idealic setting of a magnificent Hawaiian sunset.


Kistler Vineyards “Les Noisettes” Sonoma County Chardonnay 2022

This is from Kistler Vineyards, a small, family established and privately owned and operated winery that are considered one of the top legendary and most revered producers of world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir using old world Burgundian techniques. 

Kistler Vineyards craft Burgundian-style wines that reflect the unique terroir of its vineyards, employing a single-clone approach, meticulously sourcing grapes from estate and leased vineyard sites spanning the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, and Carneros.

Kistler Vineyards was founded in 1978 by Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler. The first vintage in 1979 produced 3,500 cases of wine and since then the winery has slowly grown to the planned production level of about 35,000 cases per year.

Steve Kistler retired in 2017, passing on the baton of winemaker to Jason Kesner who had performed a long apprenticeship as assistant winemaker. Mark Bixler passed away in the fall of 2017.

Kistler specialize in and focus on producing wine crafted from but one heritage clone of Californian Chardonnay (old Wente) that is planted across no less than fifteen vineyards, from Carneros to Sonoma Valley, to the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. The majority of the sites are owned and farmed by Kistler. From those sites they produce eleven vineyard designate Chardonnays.

This label, ‘Les Noisetiers’ is Kistler’s multi-vineyard Chardonnay bottling crafted from a combination of specific lots of designated quality from 30 year old vines from Kistler’s vineyards - Vine Hill, Trenton Roadhouse and Dutton Ranch, that are all situated in far western Sonoma County, near the coast.

They began creating Les Noisetiers upon noting that there was an inherent mineral tone which they loved in the lots from their vineyards planted in these coastal sandy Gold Ridge soils.

"Noisetiers" (pronounced Lay Nwaz-tee-yay and is French for "hazelnut") refers to the toasted hazelnut characters found in the wine year in and year out from the three vineyards represented within this bottle. This cuvee is an appellation-focused Chardonnay with hearty mineral and bright acidity. 

It is barrel fermented and aged on the lees in 25% neutral French oak barrels for 11 months & stainless steel for an additional three months.

Winemaker notes - “Kistler is a true standard bearer of quality in California. Blossom and white flowers on the nose and loads of dense but well balanced fruit – peach, apricots, pineapple and pear – on the palate. A fine and complex smorgasbord of fruit. The 11 months of oak aging is present but it is not the focus with white flowers and stone fruit aromatics leading to a full bodied, juicy core, loaded with flavors of peach, apricots, pineapple and pear.”

Native yeast fermentation in French oak barrels. Aged on its lees in the same French oak barrels for 11-18 months in their subterranean, gravel floor barrel rooms. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 422 barrels produced.

This was fabulous = a perfect complimentary pairing with the wholesome fresh fish. 

Deep, dark golden colored, full-bodied, full round, complex and concentrated, dense yet polished and well balanced, notes of peach, apricots, pear and apple with hints of pineapple and citrus fruits and mineral with a long, full lingering finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4879399

https://www.kistlervineyards.com/

https://x.com/KistlerWine


Dominus Estate Napa Valley Proprietary Red 2009

Dominus Estate is the Napa Valley property of Bordeaux producer Christian Moueix. It is as close as it gets to fine wine supremacy or ‘royalty’. Son of Jean-Pierre Moueix, the famed wine merchant and producer from Libourne, France, the family produce some of the world’s finest, legendary (and most expensive) wines including Châteaux Pétrus, La Fleur-Pétrus, Trotanoy in Pomerol and Magdelaine in Saint-Émilion.

Christian Moueix attended the University of California at Davis, Christian Moueix in the 1960’s where he discovered and fell in love with the Napa Valley and its wines. 

In 1981, he discovered the historic Napanook vineyard, a 134-acre site west of Yountville that had been the source of fruit for some of the finest Napa Valley wines of the 1940s and 1950s. In 1982, Moueix entered into a partnership to develop the vineyard and, in 1995, became its sole owner. He chose the name 'Dominus' or 'lord of the estate' in latin to underscore his longstanding commitment to stewardship of the land.

The historic Napanook Vineyard sits just west of Napa County Hwy 29, St Helena Highway, mainstreet of Napa Valley, located at the foothills of the Mayacamas mountain range that forms the west wall of the famous valley. The original vineyard was planted in 1838 and has been redeveloped and continues to managed under the stewardship of Christian Moueix. The estate’s Bordeaux varietals benefit from the Yountville microclimate where temperatures are moderated by cool breezes from the San Pablo Bay. The resulting wines are carefully crafted to showcase the distinctive expression of this special ‘terroir’ - all the elements of climate, soil, sun exposure, drainage and so on, the manifest the grapes grown on the site.

Napanook is a historic vineyard that dates back to 1836 and is the oldest in Napa Valley. The Napanook vineyard encompasses 134 acres, 102 of which are presently planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Its gravelly clay loam soils gently slope 3-10%, ensuring natural drainage.

This classic wine was rated a near perfect 99 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate,  98 points by Jeb Dunnuck and JamesSuckling.com, and 97 by Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media.

James Molesworth of Wine Spectator gave it 94 points and said it should be best from 2025 through 2035 meaning it should be left alone for 16 years before it reveals its true potential. 

I recall purchasing a case of 1986 Dominus back in the late 1980’s upon release. I tried a bottle every couple of years and found it a bit closed and in-inspiring. Then at nearing twenty years it seemed to awaken and show its completeness, elegance, refined polish. Notably by then, two thirds of the case had been consumed with but a few bottles to enjoy the wine in its prime. This is a long lived wine built for cellaring and aging before revealing its primacy. 

Tonight, at sixteen years, this wine is approaching the apex of its drinking window, but will no doubt age gracefully for prime drinking for another decade or more. Jed Dunnuck in 2017 said ‘it will last another two decades or three’.

Vinous wrote in 2012, “The 2009 Dominus has closed down quite a bit since I last tasted it. Today, all of the glorious fruit of the vintage is hiding behind a serious wall of tannin. The 2009 still possesses gorgeous inner perfume and plenty of sweetness, but little of the sexiness that will emerge over time. From time to time, the utter genius of the 2009 shows a glimpse of its potential. There is little doubt the 2009 will be a jewel once it awakens from what might very well be a long slumber. This is another wine that begs for patience.” 

Unlike fruit bombs or bright vibrant, expressive wines we love so much, near perfect wines like this are subtle and restrained. Their perfection is in their harmony, complexity and integration, their lack of any flaws or detractions. Suckling called it ‘subtle and intriguing’. 

This is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot.

Producer’s Notes - “The Dominus 2009 exemplifies the finest qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon from an ideal vintage. The nose, at once powerful yet restrained, is dense and filled with pure dark berry fruit and hints of sandalwood. On the palate is a harmonious blend of fresh plum and focused minerality with tannins that are firm, round and elegant. Spherical in quality, this wine is complete from start to finish. A sublime vintage.”

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, refined, elegant, polished, wonderfully balanced and finely integrated blackcurrant, black raspberry and plum fruits with symphony of notes of subtle licorice, mocha-chocolate, violets and hints of graphite, earth and camphor with layers of silky, finely grained tannins on a long finish. 

RM 96 points. 


Friday, March 7, 2025

Pizza and Fleury Napa Cab Hawaiian Sunset

Pizza and Fleury Napa Cab Hawaiian Sunset

Another night in paradise, the family gathered on the lawn to watch the Hawaiian sunset with pizza and a bottle of fine wine. Somewhat of a son Ryan’s family tradition, on their last night at the south island resort, they watched the sunset together on the lawn with pizza dinner. 

Ryan brought from his home cellar this bottle of ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet. 

Fleury Estate Winery Howell Mtn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Ryan obtained this rare highly allocated label as a member of the Fleury wine club and has amassed a vertical and horizontal collection of their various labels. We first met Brian and Claudia Fleury at a Del Dotto event in their earliest days when they were just starting Fleury Estate back in 2000.

The Fleury Estate lies just south of St. Helena in Rutherford with a tasting room, winemaking facilities and a 11 acre estate vineyard. Fleury Estate Winery also owns 50 acres of premium vineyard land in the key locations of Napa Valley with vineyards in different appellations and elevations which enables them to craft consistent, high quality Napa Valley wines year after year. 

I featured Brian and Claudia Fleury and their Fleury Napa Valley estate wines in thess pages back in 2018 in the blogpost Fleury Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Duo. I wrote about when we first met Brian and Claudia Fleury at a Del Dotto Estate Winery event (see below) back in 2002. From that meeting we acquired some Fleury Estate Lauren Bryce Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from what I believe was their inaugural vintage release. How surprising then and what fun to hear son Ryan speaking of this wine and about he and some of his buddy's acquiring some of the highly allocated select wine for their cellars. Fleury Estate Napa Cab is a favorite of him and several of his colleagues who have extensive collections of numerous releases of this label.


Fleury Estate Winery owns 50 acres of premium vineyard land in different appellations and elevations that they note allow them to "craft consistent, high quality Napa Valley wines year after year". Their primary Fleury Estate Vineyard located in the heart of Napa Valley just south of St. Helena in Rutherford, is also home to the Fleury tasting room, winemaking facilities and 11 acre estate vineyard.

They also own and manage 30 acres in the St Helena Vineyard, and six acre Howell Mountain Vineyard high up in Deerpark.

Their vineyards are planted to all the Bordeaux Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec.

Dark garnet inky purple colored, full bodied, dense, concentrated yet elegant and refined, tongue coating blackberry and hints of blueberry fruits, notes of cassis, black tea, cedar and graphite with tangy acidity and velvety smooth tannins on a long lasting finish. 

RM 93 points. 

Thursday, March 6, 2025

Den Hoed Cabernet at Beach House Restaurant Kauai

Den Hoed Cabernet at Beach House Restaurant Kauai

Vacationing with son Ryan, d-in-law Michelle and their family on the island of Kauai, we dined at the highly acclaimed scenic Beach House Restaurant located on the south shore Lawai Road in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii


Beach House is known for its scenic waterfront location with spectacular sunset views. 


Each evening folks congregate to the seaside lawn to watch the sunset.
  

The Beach House Restaurant is a consistent winner of numerous culinary awards including Honolulu Magazine's Hale Aina Gold Award for Best Kauai Restaurant, and many others. The restaurant features what they call, ‘innovative Pacific Rim Cuisine’ - locally raised steaks and venison, farm to table fresh vegetables, and locally caught fresh seafood. 

Beach House’s Chef Marshall Blanchard, born and raised in Wilton, Connecticut, graduated from the legendary Culinary Institute of America program at Hyde Park, (NY). Marshall made a name for himself spending 11 years as the Executive Chef at Restaurant D’Oro and The Golden Eagle in Vail/Beaver Creek, Colorado. He taught at Colorado Mountain College and hosted a monthly cooking show on Vail’s TV8 and has also worked with Bon Apetit and Food & Wine Magazine.

Prior to the entrees we had a selection of starters and salads including Ahi Tuna Sashimi - dayboat caught ahi, pohole fern salad and wasabi ginger, and 
Szechuan Smashed Cucumber Salad - pu'uwai gardens cucumbers, papaya, waipoli farms mixed greens, ok king farms cilantro, sesame vinaigrette, chili crisp.

For entrees, Linda and Michelle ordered the daily special fresh catch, Macadamia Nut Crusted Fresh Hawaiian Fish - Mahi Mahi with organic macadamia nuts, ginger bok choy, lemon, celery-caper relish, garlic-scallion rice, brown butter …

I ordered the filet of beef steak and Ryan had the surf and turf, combining the filet of beef with diver sea scallops …..

Beach House Filet Mignon - prime center-cut filet, sautéed mushrooms, hirabara farms rainbow chard & ok king farm kale, ulu mashed potatoes, herb butter.


Beach House Surf and Turf Duo - USDA prime center-cut filet, sea scallops, sautéed mushrooms, hirabara farms rainbow.

To accompany our dinner, I brought from our home cellar BYOB a special red wine that has special significance to Ryan, Linda and me. This special limited release label was from a lot that I acquired at auction, since this wine has a rather disparate lengthy family connection. 



This is from the Den Hoed brothers who grow grapes for several producers and also produce some select limited release select labels of premium wines. Den Hoed Wine Estates is a collaborative effort between the Den Hoed brothers, Bill and Andy, and former Stimson Lane and Chateau St Michelle CEO and Washington wine pioneer, Alan Shoup, to produce great red wines from their jointly owned Wallula Den Hoed Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills. 

We met the sister of the producer Den Hoed brothers, vintner farmers in Yakima Valley Washington, at the wedding of Linda’s niece, Ryan's cousin, who married the producers’ nephew. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/canlis-restaurant-seattle-extraordinary.html

Den Hoed “Marie’s View” Wallula Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

As I wrote at the time. this is named for the wife of patriarch founder, Andreas Den Hoed who married Marie Den Hoed in 1956 and they planted their first vineyard on their property that year. After two years in the Army Andreas returned to the farm.

In the early years, they paid the bills growing mint. He continued to plant more vineyards as resources allowed, expanding acreage almost every year. In 1988, their two sons Bill and Andy joined the business as partners in a new project, with acreage planted to vineyards.

The father and sons team continued to expand in the Yakima Valley for the next 5-6 years. After several years of searching, in 1997, they purchased a 550 acre parcel of land bordering the Columbia River in the Wallula Gap. Since then the vineyard has earned a reputation as one of the finest in the region. It is sited in a picturesque growing location nestled high above the mighty Columbia River south of of the town of Kennewick. The wines produced from this vineyard have proven to stand the test of time and can stand up and hold their own against the best wines of the new world.

Two of their key labels are named for Andreas and for Marie. Each is a limited production estate wine which celebrates their family history and showcases the Wallula Vineyard. They are robust Cabernet Sauvignons crafted by Gilles Nicault of the notable Long Shadows Vintners Collection of wines that we collect as prime members of their club. We also discovered Long Shadows during that Seattle, Woodinville Wine Weekend. 

Canlis Lake Union night view

Our first tasting experience of Den Hoed wines was ordering it from the wine list at Canlis Restaurant in suburban Seattle. The Andreas met our most lofty hopes and expectations and was a highlight of our extraordinary meal.

So, how fitting it was that that Canlis dinner was a mini family affair as wife Linda and son Ryan joined me at this legendary family restaurant. Moreover, a subplot to the story, our niece Anna Long, married into the Van Hoed family, farmers, wine growers, viticulturists and winemakers from the famed Walula Vineyards in the central Washington wine region.

Tonight we opened another Den Hoed label, Marie's View from a vineyard so named on the Walula Slope in the Horse Heaven Hills Washington State Appellation. This was from the same vintage as that first Den Hoed wine encounter, 2012.

The 2012 Washington red wines vintage follows challenging vintages in 2010 and 2011. Some producers considered 2012 the best in state history - a notable great vintage that stands tall amongst the best in the past 20 years. While 2002 and 2005 may have produced wines a bit richer than 2012 made great wines across the regions, from cooler climate Yakima Valley to the stony Walla Walla Valley.

Wines made in 2012 might have slightly more acidity,but they are generally balanced red wines that show a good core of fruits, while perhaps not as hedonistic as the big red wines made in 2013, 2014 or 2016.

At thirteen years, this wine was probably at it’s apex, not likely to improve with further aging, but certain to age gracefully for perhaps another decade.

The winemaker is the local well known Rob Newsom of Boudreaux Cellars.

Previous vintages of Marie’s View were blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese with the proportions varying from year to year. This is the first vintage of this wine to be labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon as opposed to a red wine.

This was a perfect complement, pairing with the grilled beefsteaks and mushrooms.

This is from a vineyard block named for Marie Van Hoed, wife of founder Andreas, mother of the current generation producers.

This was awarded 93 points by Owen Bargreen, and 89 points by Wine Enthusiast. Earlier releases consistently earned 92 and 93 points.

This is the first vintage of this wine to be labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon as opposed to a red wine, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

Den Hoed wines are packaged in an extra heavy bottles with the most incredible deepest punts (that indentation in the bottle around which sediment collects). 

Even better than earlier tasting, perhaps benefiting from further bottle aging, densely colored inky garnet purple, medium full bodied, concentrated, firmly structured, full round black berry, black currant and plum fruits with notes of creosote, cassis, cedar and hints of pepper with a vibrant acid backbone and firm tannins on a lasting finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2799196

https://www.denhoedwines.com/

Sunday, March 2, 2025

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2007

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Cabernet 2007 

With grilled beef tenderloin I pulled from the cellar this aged vintage Napa Valley Red Bordeaux Blend. 

We hold more than two decades of this label dating back to the inaugural release in 1993. This is part of a case we acquired of this label at the release party at the winery high atop Howell Mountain, so it is one we know well. 

I have written about Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in these pages many times including this detailed blogpost back in 2019, and again in 2021 in this post - Tomahawk Rib-eye Dinner features Robert Craig Affinity Duo, both partially excerpted below.

Robert Craig is one of our favorite Napa Valley producers and represents one of our largest holdings in our cellar. We've held many wine dinners with Robert and Lynn Craig and attended many events at the estate and winery. We have many fond memories of those dinners, lunches and other tasting events, and hearing Robert talk about this label.

We visited Robert Craig's site high atop Howell Mountain several times with sister Jan and bro-in-law Bill, and wine buddy Bill and Beth C. One of our memorable trips featured a picnic lunch at the site overlooking the  valley below shown below. It was during that trip that Bill discovered and subsequently sourced Howell Mountain Cabernet, Affinity and Robert Craig Zinfandel which they served at daughter Krista's wedding.

With Robert Craig at the estate high atop Howell Mtn 
back in 2008.

As mentioned above, we hold as many as two decades of Robert Craig’s portfolio of labels’ vintages dating back to the inaugural vintage release in 1993. This label, Affinity, represents the Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon based blend of Cabernet Sauvignons and other Bordeaux varietals sourced from the various Napa Valley appellations.

Robert Craig flight of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons
This is the Bordeaux Blend of the Robert Craig portfolio that Robert always took immense pride in this label, as the entry level introduction to his 'three mountains and a valley' appellation select Napa Cabernets, referring to his appellation designated premium labels from Mt Veeder, Howell Mtn and Spring Mountain. There were also bottlings from Atlas Peak and Mt George and in later years he would say ‘five mountains and a valley’. He also took pride in this providing early gratification quality drinking at an early age, yet as shown tonight, it has some longevity for aging for a decade or more.  

He used to speak fondly of this label and the QPR - quality price ratio it provided, as he strived to hold the price point of this wine to provide excellent value and be a draw to the Robert Craig brand. The appellation designated labels sold for twenty to thirty percent more. I wrote recently about the discontinuation of the Mt Veeder label after two decades of being one of the flagship labels, and was Robert's favorite. 

I wrote back in 2019 about Robert's passing in a Tribute to Robert Craig, when the business turned over to new leadership.

Robert never promoted or played up the fact this label was a carefully crafted  Bordeaux Blend comprising all the Bordeaux varietals rather focus on it as an introduction to the portfolio of Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets.

Robert Craig "Affinity" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2007 

This release was awarded 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points Wine Enthusiast.
We first tasted this wine from a barrel sample and acquired this release during the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party '09 back in 2009. 

Robert Parker wrote in 2009, "Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the next 15 or possibly 20 years. This is the best group of wines I have ever tasted from Robert Craig Winery. Not only is there not a single disappointment in this portfolio, but these are all noteworthy wines, with thrilling levels of quality. Moreover, they are moderately priced for Napa Valley as well as ageworthy. I think these are the finest wines that I have ever tasted from Robert Craig Cellars."

Wine Enthusiast wrote of this release, 'Craig has produced his best bottling since the late 1990s'.
This year’s blend is heavier on the petit verdot, with a composition of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. 

Back in 2022 I wrote, “this exceeded my expectations for this label and indeed was one of the best drinking Affinity's in memory. At fifteen years, this seems to reaching the apex of its drinking profile. 
Tonight, this 2007 release was as good as any Affinity I recall ever having - a perfect accompaniment to the grilled tenderloin beefsteaks. At eighteen years this was at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve further with aging, but available for pleasant drinking for several years yet to come. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, elegant, polished and smoothly balanced, black berry and black currant fruits with notes of mocha chocolate and spice, hints of cassis, smoke and cedar with smooth silky tannins on a lingering cloying finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=802059

Other related postings … 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/04/tomahawk-rib-eye-dinner-features-robert.html   

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/06/robert-craig-affinity-napa-valley.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/02/robert-craig-affinity-napa-valley.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/04/napa-vs-sonoma-2k-cabernet-duo.html  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/robert-craig-tribute.html

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1798118

https://robertcraigwine.com/

Visits to Robert Craig Estate - 

Harvest Party 2009 -  
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

Howell Mountain Estate Visit - 2008 
http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm