Sunday, April 20, 2025

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé for Easter Dinner

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005 For Easter Celebration Dinner 

We’ve opened several 2005 vintage Bordeaux the last several weeks for a mini ‘horizontal’ tasting - comparing various wine labels from the same vintage. 

I wrote about three other 2005 vintage labels in these recent blogposts - Clos du Marquis with beef stroganoffSociando Mallet with grilled beefsteak, and Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG.

So, tonight, we served two purposes, to provide another ‘younger’, more approachable wine, versus the vintage aged 1981 magnum, featured in a separate blogpost, (Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin), and, provide a comparison of another 2005 vintage release. 

Also, a minor point, but having fun with wine, in light of our Easter celebration, the Chateau Larmande packaging includes a Lavender colored foil, in the spirit of the festive occasion. 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005 

My CellarTracker (wine cellar management app) records show we hold or have consumed more than twenty different bottles from this producer over the years, since we’ve been keeping records of such. 

I featured an earlier tasting of this label and producer in a blogpost back in 2019. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/chateau-larmande-2005.html

That post was written following a short time after returning from our trip to Bordeaux. Tonight’s tasting was consistent with that earlier experience, excerpted here

I am still in the groove enjoying fine Bordeaux wines. Tonight, I pulled from the cellar this Right Bank Grand Cru Classé to enjoy with grilled beef steak and mashed potatoes.

Like several of the Left Bank producers that we visited last month, the wines of Saint-Émilion in the wine-growing region of Bordeaux were classified in 1855. However, unlike the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 covering wines from the Left Bank Médoc and Graves regions, the Saint-Émilion list is updated every 10 years or so. Following the initial classification, the list was updated in 1969, 1986, 1996 and most recently in 2006. 

According to my Cellartracker cellar records for this label, we hold six bottle remaining from two cases purchased on release a dozen years ago. Having purchased two cases at the time, it is clear that I enjoyed this wine and thought it was a great value.

My tasting note records indicated I last tasted this label three years ago in June, 2016.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/06/chateau-larmande-st-emilion-grand-cru.html

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005

Right Bank Bordeaux means the estate from where the grapes are sourced, sits on the east and north side of the diagonal flowing Gironde River that bisects the Bordeaux wine region, surrounding and named for the city of Bordeaux in southeast France. 

Wines from the Right Bank are predominantly Merlot in the Blend of Bordeaux sanctioned varietal gapes. 

Alternatively, wines produced in the Médocon the the Left Bank, that lies on the western and southern side of the river, are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend

Both Left and Right Bank Bordeaux wines are based on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively, with the percentages flipped, accented by small amounts of Cabernet Franc and perhaps Petit Verdot.

Château Larmande lies north of the town of St. Emilion, close to Soutard and Cadet-Piola. It consists of 60 acres of vineyards planted with Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%).

Château Larmande was sold to the French insurance conglomerate, La Mondiale in 1991. 

Tonight, this was consistent with earlier tasting notes - 

In 2020, I wrote’ 

“Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of tar, smoke, earthy leather, hints of cedar and spice, (earlier reports of mocha were not apparent), on a firm lingering tongue puckering tannin finish - fruits slightly diminished from earlier tastings with seemingly increased acidity.”

*PS. A postscript on this tasting, after a couple days open in the bottle, chilled, this wine returned to its earlier elegance, structured balance and fruit, regaining my earlier rating of 89 points. (I demoted it to 88 for this initial tasting). Once again, I shouldn't P-n-P, pop and pour these complex aged wines, rather, give them respect, open them and allow them to breathe at least a couple hours before diving in!”


And previously .. 


http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/06/chateau-larmande-st-emilion-grand-cru.html

Tonight, as noted, consistent with those reviews, this 2005 release was a nice, pleasant, easy drinking, yet sophisticated, polished and nicely integrated and balanced wine, dark garnet colored, medium bodied, aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of tar, smoke, earthy leather and notes of cedar, spice on a firm lingering tongue puckering tannin finish.

At twenty years of age, this is showing no signs of diminution from aging and probably can be held for several more years for prime drinking. 

My recent blogpost, from the week before last, speaks to, "the adventure, joy, and perils of holding vintage wine for a couple decades or more ...". This continues to be a pleasant, easy drinking yet sophisticated wine and I fear as I consume the last bottles of my collection, I'll regret having drunk many of them too early! 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=351693 

http://www.chateau-soutard.com/chateau-larmande-.aspx 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/351693


Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

Easter Celebration Family Dinner Vintage Bordeaux & Beef Tenderloin

We hosted the family for a gala Easter Celebration dinner and (grand) kids Easter egg hunt. 


For diner we grilled a complete beef tenderloin served roasted potatoes, broccoli casserole and creative and imaginative corn nibblets preparation, slices of the kernel sections off the corn cob roasted, that we discovered at Stacy’s beachfront Restaurant in Crystal Beach during our recent trip to Destin, FL. 


For a wine accompaniment with dinner I pulled from the cellar a flight of Bordeaux varietals red blend wines anchored by a magnum of Erin’s birthyear Château Léoville-Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1981.

Château Léoville-Barton Grand Cru Classé Saint-Julien Bordeaux 1981

It is always a privilege and pleasure to meet the always friendly and delightful Lilian Barton-Sartorius from Château Léoville-Barton at the annual tasting of the UGCB (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)). She is a regular visitor each year at the annual release tour visit to Chicago, unveiling/showcasing their most recent vintage release wines.

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Château
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations.

Ch. Léoville Barton is a Second Growth Saint-Julien estate, one of the three famous original Léoville estates (along with Léoville Poyferré and Léoville Las Cases). 

Until the nineteenth century, the Domaine de Léoville Barton was one of the largest and oldest crus in the Médoc extending from the vineyards of Château Beychevelle on the southern edge of the St Julien appellation, all the way to Château Latour at the northern border of St Julien and Pauillac. 

It was a result of the French Revolution that the estate was divided into three parts between the years 1826 and 1840, Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Léoville Barton and Château Léoville Poyferré.

The two Barton estates, still owned by the Barton family today (along with Ch. Langoa Barton), date back to founder, Irish trader Thomas Barton who arrived in Bordeaux in 1725. 

He was an important figure in the wine trade during his lifetime but didn't buy any vineyards. It was his grandson, Hugh, who first purchased Château Langoa in Saint-Julien in 1821, and later acquired a part of the Léoville estate, which would become Ch. Léoville Barton.

The estate remains in the family today under the stewardship of Lilian Barton and her children Melanie and Damien have both joined the family business. 

We toured the historic Château Léoville-Barton grounds and vineyards at the estate during our visit to Saint Julien back in 2019.

The 130 acre estate with its classicSaint-Julien terroir of rich gravelly soil along the Gironde River estuary is planted to the specified varietals, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for a little more than 70 percent, with the remainder Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Franc.

The wine cellar still maintains large wooden vats, with some dating as far back as 1963, while much of the rest of the region moved to stainless steel, Léoville Barton remained loyal to its traditions. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in French barrels (60% new) for around 20 months. 

Tonight, this proved to be an extraordinary, perfect wine and food pairing that complemented and amplified both. 

I write often in these pages about such a pairing, when properly done will indeed attenuate the enjoyment of both the food and the accompanying wine. 

Château Léoville-Barton Saint Julien Bordeaux 1981

I recently purchased several bottles of the most recent 2022 release of this label. was replenishing my stock. I came across several bottles from the OWC (original wood case) from the acquisition upon release of this vintage label. This is also one of the few remaining labels we hold from that 1981 vintage, birthyear of our daughter Erin. 

While the 1981 Bordeaux vintage was a bit lackluster and less worthy of long term cellaring, this bottle in its 43rd year was amazingly in remarkable condition - the fill level being just below the foil, and the cork still holding together albeit a bit saturated. The label, as shown, was soiled, and the cork was slightly saturated, but still intact to be able to be extracted with an Ahso two pronged cork puller (shown). 


I know that holding this wine for more than four decades was less than ideal and was a bit concerned about the state of this wine, despite its known provenance, having been in our cellar since release. 

The wine, while showing its age with some minor signs of diminution from aging, ie. slight browning of the color, was still showing full round fruits, with depth and breadth of flavors and smooth supple structured tannins.   

What a relief to get aromas of fruit and appropriate positive accents, and good color as I decanted the wine. Even with the slightly deteriorated cork, this bottle was still very much approachable and within its acceptable drinking window! No doubt the age worthiness was accentuated due to the larger format 1.5l magnum bottle.

Alas, this is the joy of having a deep wine cellar with many vintages across which to compare, over time, even across the decades!  My Cellartracker records indicate we have more than a dozen vintages of this label dating back to this vintage and the iconic 1982, 1955 and 1990 vintages, which we're still holding as birth-year wines for our three sons. 

After three hours of settling prior to pouring, the wine showed remarkably well. Compare this to the 1981 vintage Chateau Palmer we opened at Christmas dinner which did not fare nearly as well. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex yet nicely balanced and full round flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits accented by very nice notes of all earth, wood, spice and tobacco with some savory sprites of black olive and cedar, finishing with moderate smooth polished tannins the finish - a nice match to the savory sauce accenting our grilled beefsteak. 

RM 88 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/159583

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/ugcb-2020-vintage-release-tour-chicago.html

https://www.leoville-barton.com/

https://twitter.com/bartonwine

@Bartonwine

We followed this wine with another Bordeaux that I featured in a separate follow on blogpost - 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé for Easter Dinner.


Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Cerbaia Brunello with Homemade Manicotti

Cerbaia Brunello with Homemade Manicotti 

Linda prepared delicious manicotti with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses and a tangy Bolognese sauce with toasted Italian garlic bread. 



I pulled from the cellar the specified ideal wine accompaniment, a Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese.


I featured this wine and producer in an earlier blogpost, excerpted here - Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino BYOB at Angeli’s Italian. 

Readers of these pages know we don't do a lot of Italian wines but we do keep a selection in our cellar for Italian cuisine and dining at Angelis Italian which we do fairly frequently. 

That evening, we took this new arrival Limited Production Brunello di Montalcino which I had just picked up at Binny's, based on its stellar 98 point rating. While I didn't give it such stellar ratings, we enjoyed it a lot and I went back to pick up a few more bottles. 

We love Sangiovese and most of our Italian cellar selections are that varietal, which we love paired with Italian cuisine. The Brunello di Montalcino label is tightly regulated and can only be made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Montalcino region of Tuscany, Italy. 

Appellation regulations also limit the quantity of wine produced each year and mandate a Long Aging Process which stipulate Brunello must be aged for a minimum of four years, with at least two years spent in oak barrels. This lengthy aging process that ties up resources and increases production costs contributes to the higher price point of the label.

The rigorous production regulations set by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium ensure that only the highest quality wines bear the Brunello label. This commitment to quality often requires additional investment in vineyard management, winemaking techniques, and quality control.

Brunello has gained a reputation as one of Italy's finest wines, prized for its complexity, depth, and ability to age gracefully. Its prestigious status and limited availability contribute to high demand and, consequently, higher prices.

This is from Cerbaia, a boutique winery that produces wines from some of the finest vineyards in Montalcino that are a true expression of a unique and distinctive place. 

The Cerbaia property has belonged to the Pellegrini family since the 1950s, with the family beginning to make wine in the 1970’s. The estate covers of a total of 35 acres of land, 11 of which are under the Brunello appellation controls, located on the highly regarded Montosoli Hill, known as the Grand Cru of Montosoli — some of the most coveted land in Tuscany.

In 2014, Elena Pellegrini gave up a promising career in corporate finance to devote herself to her family estate, striving to craft elegant, balanced wines in the traditional Montalcino style as her father Fabio did, applying minimal intervention and sustainable practices. She is advised by notable consulting enologist G.Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine.

Cerbaia Brunello Di Montalcino 2019

Their 2019 release was awarded 98-points by James Suckling who declared it “one of the best I have had from here” in his  review. Kerin O`Keefe of www.kerinokeefe.com gave it 94 Points.

The 2019 is emerging as an all-time great year in Montalcino: Vinous called it “the vintage we’ve all been waiting for.” Kerin O’Keefe, who wrote THE book on Brunello, said “I’ve never tasted so many drop-dead-gorgeous young Brunellos from a single vintage.” Wine Advocate called the vintage “uniformly easy” for vintners.

The release was aged three years in large oak casks ensured that it would be polished and beautiful from day one.

Winemaker Notes - Intense ruby red in color, garnet with aging. Rich and intense bouquet of violets, undergrowth, red fruits, eucalyptus, and blackberry. Very long persistence, fresh, and elegant but complex.

Bright ruby garnet colored, medium full bodied, vibrant blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of dusty rose, tobacco, dried herbs and leather with hints of truffle with bright acidity on a smooth polished tannin finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4577891


Saturday, April 12, 2025

Château du Tertre Margaux with grilled beefsteaks

Château du Tertre Margaux with grilled beefsteaks

Saturday dinner at home, Linda grilled some beef tenderloin beefsteaks, served with a medley of roasted potatoes, corn, onions and cheese. I pulled from the cellar a middle aged vintage Bordeaux blend for the occasion, served with toasted bread. 



According to the label, this is a trade sample bottle which would’ve been acquired from the producer for serving at the UGCB 2014 Release Tour in Chicago.

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) annual release tour traverses America showcasing their vintage release wines. The tour visits some combination of Miami, New York, Chicago, LA and San Francisco.

As we have for fourteen years, our 'Pour Boys' wine group helps host the event in Chicago at the Drake Hotel in the elegant grand ballroom (shown left).  

More than a hundred producers were participate at the event that is attended by over five hundred members of the trade, media and industry.

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. More than once, winter storms delayed or disrupted travel prohibiting some of them to get to Chicago for the event which started our standing in, hence we coined the name the 'pour' boys.

Château du Tertre Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2011

Château du Tertre is a Fifth Growth property in Margaux, one of the oldest properties not just in Margaux, but in the entire Left Bank dating back to 1143. The name, “Tertre,” refers to its geography, the word tertre means, “hill,” or, “rising ground," referring to the location, a couple km inland from the Gironde River estuary, the Margaux terroirs there are the highest, with one of the most elevated gravel outcrops of the Médoc. 

The estate sits in the hamlet of Arsac, where it has historically been called “beautiful Tertre d’Arsac”, just 4 km south of the Chambres de Margaux in the Margaux village centre where we stayed during our Margaux Bordeaux region tour in 2019,  just a 1/2 km south of the village perimeter. 

The footprint of the 52 hectares, 125 acres of vineyards, has not changed much since the 1855 Classification when it was designated Margaux Grand Cru Classe. The graveled, sloping soils are planted to customary Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with the majority of the vines planted near an ambient forest, which yields cooler temperatures and preserves the freshness of the wines. 

The estate began to rise to prominence in the 1700's, when it was owned Pierre Mitchell of Bordeaux, known as a famous glassblower. Mitchell was known to have created the first jeroboam (a five liter bottle), and given his expertise in crafting glass bottles, it is likely that the first wines in Bordeaux were bottled at Château du Tertre.  

The Château du Tertre estate was very popular with the Dutch wine market and was acquired by Henri de Koenigswarter from the Netherlands before being taken over by the Cruse family, a famous négociant, in the 1900s.  

During the turbulent disruption of World War II, the estate fell into disrepair and its sterling reputation declined as a result. 

In 1961, the property was acquired by Philippe Gasqueton, the well-known owner of Château Calon Ségur in Saint Estèphe, who embarked on the long, intensive process of turning the estate around.  

1n 1997, Dutch businessman, Eric Albada Jelgersma bought the estate and invested in the large-scale overall restructuring, returning its former noble personality to the Chateau du Tertre. Since March 2021 the Helfrich family has taken over the property with the intent to continuing the tradition and pursuit of excellence. 

The viticultural team is headed by Alexander Van Beek, who made some critical changes such as eliminating machine harvesting.  Frédéric Ardouin from Château Latour was hired as Technical Director and winemaker in 2008, and the property has been on the rise ever since with biodynamic transformation of the viticulture and rebuilding of the production facilities with new technology. Château du Tertre wines are known to be versatile, able to be enjoyed younger with one to two hours decanting and show improvement with 10 years of bottle age. 

The 54-hectare Chateau du Tertre vineyard is planted to the Appellation designated Bordeaux varietals, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. This marks a major change from the historic mix in the vineyard with less Cabernet Sauvignon and more Merlot.

The du Tertre vineyard is planted in one large single block of vines and is one of the largest single blocks of vines in Margaux, as well as in all of the Medoc.

Notably, the vineyard is also one of the few estates that is the same size today, as it was at the time of the historic 1855 Classification of the Medoc.

The terroir is mostly gravel, with some sand soils on two, gentle, sloping hills. The elevation close to the chateau graduates up to 27 meters, making it one of the highest peaks in the Margaux appellation. The location for much of the vineyard is situated close to a forest, which produces a slightly cooler, micro-climate.

The cooler ambient temperature adds more freshness to the wines. Geographically, they are next to their sister property, Chateau Giscours. In fact, only a small stream separates the two vineyards. Their best parcels are located just behind the chateau, and as well as on the peaks of their gravel hills.

At fourteen years the foil, label and most importantly the fill level and cork were still in pristine condition. This is probably at the apex of its drinking window and profile, not likely to improve with further aging, but certainly will age well for another decade or more.  

Château du Tertre Grand Cru Classe Margaux 2011

The du Tertre is a blend of 10% Merlot, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 20% Cabernet Franc.  

The relative high percentage of Petit Verdot, brings firmness, structure and deep color to a blend. 

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and Jane Anson of Decanter.com, 91 points by James Suckling, 90 points by Wine Spectator, and 88 points by Robert Parker Jr., The Wine Advocate.
 
A nice pairing with the grilled beefsteaks. 

Dense dark garnet purple colored, medium bodied, floral notes with black berry and black currant fruits with notes of anise, black tea, earth and leather with supple tannins and well behaved acidity on the finish. 

RM 90 points. 


 
 
@ Tertre_gcc

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/06/chateau-du-tertre-grand-cru-classe.html 

Friday, April 11, 2025

Signorello Hope’s Chardonnay BYOB at Entourage DG

Signorello Hope’s Cuvée Chardonnay BYOB at Entourage DG

We dined Friday afternoon early dinner at Entourage DG (Downers Grove). This week we ordered one of our favorite entrees, a replay of our recent Entourage dinner selections as featured in these pages in an earlier blogpost,.

Entourage DG, one of the our favorite go-to eateries with its great menu, ease of parking, great service, and reasonable BYOB policy. 

We have several favorite menu selections, both beef and seafood, so we’re routinely challenged on which wine we want to take BYOB, if any, for our dinner pairing. And, of course, we don’t know what the Specials will be, so, tonight we brought a red and a white to cover all contingencies on dinner entree selections. 

Linda opted for our perennial favorite dishes, the Entourage signature Miso Marinated Chilean Seabass with Broccolini, Charred Peppers, Shiitake Mushrooms and Black Truffle Risotto, Yuzu and the new offering approach, Lemon Butter Sauce. 

As I wrote in a previous post - Spectacular dining experience at Entourage Restaurant Downers Grovethat this was extraordinary, delicious in all respects, the fish artfully prepared and served hot, and the Black Truffle Risoto was spectacular. We love it all, the harmony and synthesis of the many artfully crafted robust flavors. 

Hence, I selected the Daily Special, a seafood dish, Hawaiian Wahoo, with which I asked they substitute the truffle risotto as the accompaniment. 

Based on our seafood entree selections, we opened BYOB from our cellar this ultra-premium Napa Valley Chardonnay, one of our favorite vintages/labels from a favorite producer. 

Signorello Hope's Cuvee Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016

As posted in an earlier blogposts, we discovered and acquired (the then current vintage release of) this wine during our visit to the Estate on Silverado Trail in Southeastern Napa Valley during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013. At that time I wrote about this label: "I am predominantly a red wine drinker and while I enjoy an occasional glass of white, most often with appropriate food, I don't normally get excited about a white wine. This chardonnay was the exception,  memorable and special."

We're getting down to the last few remaining bottles of the label that we've acquired over time and we look to refreshing our inventory with more, from the current release. 


(Former) Signorello Estate overlooking vineyards 
and valley floor.

The Signorello winery sits at the very southern end of Napa Valley and has 43 acres of vineyards, including some of the oldest Chardonnay vines in all of Napa Valley - fruit from 37-year-old vines goes into his Hope’s Cuvée.

The magnificent Estate was destroyed in the fires that engulfed much of sections of Sonoma and Napa in 2017. Fires came down the foothills to the property that sat up the hill back from the highway.

The fire reached the winery and completely destroyed the hospitality center that also housed offices, a wine lab and a family residence upstairs. The adjacent  crush pad and stainless steel tanks survived intact along with the barrel cellar and equally if not most importantly, the vines of the adjacent vineyards. 

In the wake of the destruction from Napa Valley’s October 2017 Atlas Peak Fire, Ray Signorello vowed to rebuild. We're relieved to read about the Phoenix of Signorella Estate, rising from the ashes, literally, and being rebuilt, even grander and larger than before. Signorello said he viewed the tragedy as an opportunity to do something new and exciting and is rebuilding with a larger fermentation facility, wine caves and a stunning expanded hospitality center. 

The winery has kept almost all of its team employed as an interim step toward returning to normalcy and they have been operating out of a modular building was brought in to serve as a temporary hospitality center.

The adjacent Darioush property nearby the sits at the valley floor closer to the highway and similarly situated properties were untouched. 

Signorello "Hope's Cuvée" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave the 2015 release 98 points and said, "The best Chardonnay I have ever tasted from Ray Signorello has to be the 2015 Chardonnay Hope’s Cuvée." Vinous gave it 91 points.

Perhap’s due to nearly a decade of aging in our cellar, tonight's tasting was the best experience we’ve had of this label. 

This Hope's Cuvée Chardonnay was full bodied but nicely balanced and polished for very pleasant drinking. It is bursting with flavorful fruit with layers of peach and poached pear giving way to hints of honey, almond, nutmeg, vanilla and creamy soft spicy oak. There is very pleasant full mouth-feel with rich texture on the palate with a long lingering finish of sweet mellow oak.

Rich golden butter colored, full bodied, rich and concentrated but silky smooth, elegant, balanced and polished, caramelized citrus, honeysuckle, white peach, pear and melon notes with a touch of almond and brioche on a harmonious finish.

RM 96 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2806461

https://www.signorelloestate.com/

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

Terlato & Chapoutier Lieu-Dit-Malakoff Shiraz

Terlato & Chapoutier Lieu-Dit-Malakoff Shiraz 2019

Another quiet Tuesday night at home, we settled in to watch our time-phased recording of “The Voice” with a selection of artisan cheeses and bold sipping Shiraz wine - much like last week as featured in this post Long Shadows Sequel Syrah w/ Focaccia & Murray’s Cheese

Like last week, we had a selection of Murray’s and other cheeses, fresh whole berry jams, and fresh cut Chive herbs, with toasted sourdough bread. 


Tonight our cheeses included aged blue cheese, Gruyère, Beemster Swiss, aged white cheddar and aged sharp cheddar, 




For a wine accompaniment we pulled from the cellar this big bold everyday Australian Shiraz.

Terlato & Chapoutier Lieu-Dit-Malakoff Shiraz 2019

This label is from the partnership of two global beverage heavyweights, global wine producer and distributor Terlato and French based global producer Chapoutier

Suburban Chicago based, family owned, Terlato started as a retail store in 1938 and has grown into one of the world’s leading importers, marketers and producers of luxury beverage brands. Their global portfolio includes more than 85 fine wine and artisanal spirit brands from world-class producers in more than a dozen countries and is the leading fine wine & spirits marketer in the U.S. Some of their well known brands include Chimney Rock, Rutherford Hill and Rochioli in the US and I’ll Poggionne, Feudi di San Gregorio in Italy. Notably, they are the exclusive distributor of ultra-premium Gaia wines in North America and the portfolio also includes Champagne Roederer,Joseph Drouhin and Louis Latour.

Maison Chapoutier, founded in 1808, has vineyards throughout France, primarily the northern and southern Rhône river valleys, as well as in Portugal, Australia and Spain and produces iconic brands with over two hundred labels.

The Terlato & Chapoutier partnership dates back to 1987. Michel Chapoutier joined forces with the Terlato family (the company’s American distributor) in 2000. This domain brand is the company’s third project in Australia, and the second domain in Victoria, to the north-east of Melbourne. 

This is a single vineyard designated wine from the Pyrenees appellation in the Western Victoria sub-region of the Victoria wine region of Australia. While Victoria may be Australia’s second smallest state, it’s home to over 600 cellars, the largest number of individual wineries. 

Not to be confused with the Pyrenees region bordering southern France and Spain, the Australian appellation is the most prolific of three appellations in the sub-region, and is home to 50+ wineries that produce over 600 wines. 

The project is in the Central Highlands region in Western Victoria, Australia, about 198 kilometres west of Melbourne, on the eastern slopes of the Ararat Hills and Cemetery Creek valley between Victoria's Western District and the Wimmera in what is known as the Grampians wine region.

The ares’s proximity between 100 -200 kilometres to the Southern Ocean provides a Mediterranean climate with cooling influence during summer.

This label, Lieu dit is a French term referring to a specific part of a vineyard or region recognized for its own topographic or historical specificities, commonly used in Alsace, Burgundy, the Rhône Valley. It is a bit disingenuous for Chapoutier to use it outside of France. 

The Grampians wine region’s primary variety is Shiraz. The region also produces Sparking Shiraz, Riesling, the best performing white variety in the region, along with Chardonnay that can also be found. Cabernet Sauvignon is found in some of the older vineyards, and Pinot Noir is starting to gain a foothold as a straight varietal. In recent years, Italian varietals such as Pinot Grigio (or Gris), Sangiovese annd Dolcetto are making their mark with a growing legion of fans.

The region is know as Shiraz Central in the Victoria Highlands, and it is grown throughout the region in the towns and sub-appellations of Ballarat, Bendigo, Goulburn Valley, Grampians, Heathcote, Macedon Ranges, Pyrenees, Strathbogie Ranges, Sunbury and Upper Goulburn.

Scattered among the old gold mining towns, 250 wineries benefit from long sunny days and cool nights that produce a cool, spicy Australian shiraz, notable for their complexity and finesse.

Terlato & Chapoutier Lieu-Dit-Malakoff Shiraz 2019

Winemaker notes - Deep ruby. Highly aromatic with black fruit aromas (black cherry and black currant) and undertones of dark chocolate, white pepper and eucalyptus. Explosive black berry and black plum flavors with perfectly matched, elegant tannins that give the wine a long, lasting aftertaste. Full bodied and rich. A treat to drink now and will age well for 7-10 years.

This label is widely distributed and can be found priced from $10 in special sales, all the way to $40. At its moderate prices it provides great QPR - Quality Price Ratio for every day sipping.

Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, complex, concentrated, wild black berry and black currant fruits with notes of earth, spice and hints of black tea, tar, pepper and bitter dark chocolate, with moderate tannins on a long persistent finish. 

RM 88 points. 



Sunday, April 6, 2025

La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata

La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata

Sunday afternoon dinner, we prepared homemade chicken piccata with corn, peas, carrots and pasta. I opened a basic Sonoma Coast Chardonnay to pair as an accompaniment. 

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2023 

This is from a historically family owned and operated winery that was originally named, La Crema Viñera which means "best of the vine," founded in 1979. Over the ensuing 35 years, they focused exclusively on cool-climate appellations and single vineyard sites, from their original home in the Russian River Valley, to Monterey and, now, the Willamette Valley. 

Through rigorous vineyard site selection and boutique winemaking techniques they consistently produced affordable balanced expressive wines such that they were named Winery of the Year in 2024 by Wine Enthusiast.

But the real story here is that La Crema is part of the vast Kendall Jackson portfolio of vineyards, wineries and brands. I wrote about the meteoric rise of Kendall Jackson to the pinnacle of the US wine industry, as it was featured in an earlier blogpost - Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018, excerpted below

Building on the premise of affordable quality wines, Jackson Family Wines have amassed no less than forty leading brands including historic widely popular labels such as Freemark Abbey to ultra-premium labels/brands such as LaJota, Cardinale, Mt Brave and Lakoya. One can’t say enough about the astonishing powerhouse Jackson Family has become in the global wine industry.

The whole story is chronicled in the book A Man and His Mountain, the story of self-made billionaire Jess Jackson and his pursuit of his dream to build a brand of premium varietal based wine for the mass market. His accomplishments over the ensuring two and a half decades exceeded all expectations achieving the art of the possible building a multi-billion dollar wine empire. 

While the book focuses on Kendall Jackson Reserve Chardonnay and its rise to the number 1 selling Chardonnay in America, the same story and principles apply to and strongly parallel La Crema as well. 

The Jackson family acquired La Crema in the early ‘90s, with a belief in “dreaming big (our entrepreneurial energy is intense) and an unwavering commitment to wine quality”. The family cultivated La Crema, as told by Jackson’s daughter, Jenny Jackson Hartford:

“When my father, Jess Jackson, and Barbara Banke acquired La Crema in 1993, my husband, Don Hartford, with my sister Laura and I, set out on a mission to craft wines that truly express the essence of cool-climate vineyards. We were hands-on in those early days, managing operations, building the winery where we still make wine today, and sharing our passion with wine lovers across the country. That vision lead to recognition with the award of  “American Winery of the Year” by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

The Kendall-Jackon Jess Jackson Story

In 1974, Jess Jackson purchased an 80-acre pear and walnut orchard up in Lake County, California, just north of Napa Valley, and replanted it with Chardonnay grapevines. In 1982, Jess and his family set out to make a premium, yet affordable, California wine.

In 1982, he set out for New York City to establish distribution for his new concept wine and unknown brand. That same year, that inaugural vintage of Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay won the first-ever Platinum Award for an American Chardonnay at The American Wine Competition.

Soon thereafter, President Ronald Reagan and First Lady Nancy, native Californians, wanted to serve a California wine in the White House. Nancy discovered and fell in love with the taste of Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay and selected Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay as their 'house wine'. San Francisco Chronicle's Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist Herb Caen, caught wind of the story and wrote a column about the wine referring to the Chardonnay as "Nancy’s wine." The brand was established, demand exploded, and the company grew exponentially.

By 1991, Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay had become the #1 selling Chardonnay in America, and remains so to this day.

In 2007, Jess Jackson was honored with the Wine Enthusiast Magazine Lifetime Achievement Award, awarded each year to the individuals and companies that have made outstanding achievements in the wine and beverage world. Jess Jackson was one of the first and largest winemakers to introduce America to varietal-specific wine, not only increasing the public’s understanding and appreciation of wine, but also making it affordable.

Jess Jackson passed away in April of 2011.

In 2013, Wine Enthusiast named Barbara Banke, Jackson's second wife and long-time partner who helped him build the business, and succeeded him as its leader, as its 2013 Wine Person of the Year. The first woman to win the award, Barbara shares it with Jess, the magazine’s inaugural recipient in 2000.

In 2017 Kendall-Jackson was awarded Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

https://www.kj.com//wine/grand-reserve/chardonnay

Like Kendall Jackson, La Crema was a pioneer, begun at a time during which few wineries in California were making Pinot Noir, and even fewer were doing so with a single-vineyard focus. A group of wine lovers ran the show back then using old-world techniques such as whole-cluster pressing and open-top fermentation. This was the basis for making fine wines, but with stellar fruit from exceptional vineyard sites. La Crema, like KJ took a different approach. 

That evolution took shape in the early 1990s when Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke instilled in the winery the artisan ethos and simple vision: “That Pinot Noir should be as popular as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and La Crema could be the vehicle to do that.”

Jackson and Banke purchased La Crema in 1993 and produced the first vintage in 1994. Two years later a new winery was constructed in the fog-shrouded, redwood-lined Russian River Valley appellation. Jackson’s daughters, Laura Jackson Giron and Jenny Jackson Hartford, along with his sons-in-law, Rick Giron and Don Hartford, took on leadership roles at La Crema: managing the day-to-day operations and representing the winery out in the market. 

Right after the new millennium, La Crema set out to nurture an estate vineyard program comprising the best cool-climate sites along the West Coast. The winery began working extensively with fruit from appellations including Sonoma Coast, Green Valley, Anderson Valley, and Los Carneros, extending its reach into Monterey in 2008, and then to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 2012.

Over the next decade, the winery added wines from cool-climate vineyards in California and Oregon. In 2013 they bought the historic Sonoma Valley property owned by Richard and Saralee McClelland Kunde. They launched a three-year rehabilitation of the circa-1900 barn on the property and reopened it as the La Crema Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard in 2016. Today, this serves as their hospitality center and modern tasting room in downtown Healdsburg.

Since 2009, the winery operated under the expertise of Head Winemaker Craig McAllister overseeing production from Willamette Valley in Oregon to Sta. Rita Hills in California. McAllister samples grapes from every block of every vineyard, tasting each lot to craft the best wines possible, applying high-touch but low-intervention, something that’s a rarity for wineries at La Crema’s scale.

A New-Zealand native, Craig McAllister spent his first 20 years in Christchurch, New Zealand, and Lincoln University in New Zealand, where he received his Bachelor of Science degree in viticulture and enology.

Craig pursued his passion for winemaking traveling from New Zealand to Australia, Chile and Cyprus before coming to the US and joining La Crema team in 2007 as the Harvest Enologist, and then full-time in 2009. He was promoted to head winemaker in 2017.

La Crema’s story follows the long legacy of chairman and proprietor, Barbara Banke and Jess Jackson, who discovered new vineyard terrains to establish and grow the brand. Today it is operated by the next generation Laura Jackson Giron and Jenny Jackson Hartford, Jess Jackson’s eldest daughters, along with Jenny’s husband. Katie Jackson and Julia Jackson, daughters of Barbara and Jess, and Hailey Jackson Hartford Murray, daughter of Jenny and Don, are the next generation to carry forward the family’s legacy and business going forward. 

Hailey Jackson Hartford Murray, granddaughter of the legendary Jess Jackson, and daughter of Jenny Jackson Hartford and Don Hartford, grew up in the iconic wine family, growing up amidst the century-old Zinfandel vines in her Sonoma backyard. After working harvests in France, Chile, and the Russian River Valley, she chose to leave her biology degree to dive fully into winemaking. She participated in harvests at Yangarra Estate in McLaren Vale, Australia, and Château Lassègue in Bordeaux. Today she works at La Crema and lives with her husband, Max Murray, and their two children where it all started: Sonoma County.

Sonoma County native Lisa Valtenbergs serves as Facility Winemkaer at La Crema. Inspired by Sonoma’s agricultural traditions, she got her degree in Agriculture Business with a minor in Viticulture from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. She studied international wine marketing at the University of Adelaide in South Australia and earned a Winemaker’s Certificate from UC Davis.

After stints at several wineries in California, Lisa re-joined Jackson Family Wines as a production enologist for Kendall-Jackson in 2004, and in 2006, she was promoted to assistant winemaker. In 2008, she became assistant winemaker for Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, then eventually winemaker in 2014, producing a string of six vintages of widely-acclaimed high elevation Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Following a year-long global travel sabbatical with a vintage in South Australia’s McLaren Vale, Lisa joined the La Crema winemaking team in July 2022. 

Lisa is joined by Winemaker Eric Johannsen, a native of Santa Cruz Mountains wine country in Northern California. After receiving undergraduate degrees in Chemistry and Philosophy, with some restaurant work on the side, Eric began to pursue a Master of Science in Enology at the University of California, Davis.

Before joining the La Crema team in 2004, Eric worked at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Cuvaison Estate Wines in Napa, and Williams Selyem Winery in Healdsburg. Eric has pursued understanding of wines from around the world visiting Argentina, Australia, and France, including the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy.

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2023

Winemaker notes - “Nose of Meyer lemon, white flowers and subtle hints of oak. Golden peach and pineapple, are followed by flavors of graham cracker crust, with a vibrant and concentrated acidity that drives a lingering ‘

“Aromas of Meyer lemon, pear and white flowers are supported on the nose by subtle hints of oak. Followed by flavors of crisp apple, golden peach, and pineapple. On the palate, flavors of graham cracker pie crust add a vein of richness. Fleshy, vibrant, and concentrated, juicy yet a balanced acidity drives a lingering finish.”

Good QPR - (Quality Price Ratio) in this entry level every day Chardonnay. 

Straw colored, medium bodied, full round crisp fruit flavors of peach peak through the subdued lemon citrus background with notes of apple and hints of pineapple with pleasant balanced acidity on the lingering finish. 

RM 87 points. 

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