Family Christmas Celebration and Wine Dinner
The entire family, our four kids and their eleven kids/grandkids gathered at our house for a gala Christmas celebration, gift exchange and dinner. It’s wonderful that we are near to each other and enjoy so much getting together - especially the kids with their cousins.
Linda prepared a fabulous dinner highlighted by ramekins of lobster tails and buttered croutons, beef tenderloin as main courses. Sides included twice baked potatoes, mashed potatoes haricot verts and chopped salad.
Also set out was a selection of artisan cheeses with crackers, an extensive selection of Christmas cookies and festive punch.
From the cellar we had a broad wine flight of champagne, whites and reds.
The wine flight -
Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998
Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019
Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)
Cliff Lede High Fidelity 2018
Fantesca Spring Mtn District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
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| Table one of two … |
Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 1998
It’s easy to see why this is a timeless classic Champagne, Dom Pérignon, the benchmark of premium French Champagne. A perfect bottle to close out the year of our 50th anniversary, with family for our holiday celebration.
Our visit to the Moët & Chandon Chateaux and Cellars in Epernay (above) was a highlight of our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006.
At 25 years, I wondered what condition this vintage bottle would be in and it was perfect, still at the apex of its drinking profile and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. This was perhaps the best Champagne I think I’ve ever had - delicious.
Deep dark golden color, medium bodied, fine mousse, and complex bouquet and flavors of brioche, yellow apple, pear and hint of peach with touch of mineral, lightly toasted almonds, refined acidity, a creamy mid palate, and a long and focused finish.
RM 94 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/w?129100
We then moved to two Sonoma County Chardonnays
Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019
This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge brand and the Croix Estate winery in Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, is the ‘sister’ winery to Venge Vineyards in Calistoga Napa Valley, of winemaker/producer Kirk Venge. The rather odd, unique name is a testament to the pioneer entrepreneurs and their historic narrow gauge railroad that connected the producers in Sonoma County with the marketplace in San Francisco.
As described on the producer website, “It was the Carter brothers, in an act of political and economic defiance, that introduced the narrow gauge railroad movement to Northern California in the late 1870’s. In what has become known as the bay areas first example of radical, technological innovation, the introduction of an alternative goods distribution system was a direct challenge to the hegemony of the Central Pacific Railroad’s grip on the transportation of goods. Prior to the injection of this new go-to-market path, Sonoma County’s local and regional marketplace was constrained by a handful of distribution centers that were costly in time and material to the average, family-owned producer. Only when the more affordable and nimble narrow gauge tracks and trains were put into place in Northern California did the region see the rapid expansion of agricultural and industrial development take place. Our Narrow Gauge Chardonnay celebrates the historical significance of such a movement.”
Kirk grew up in the wine business working in the vineyards and winery aside his legendary dad, Nils Venge. Born and raised in Rutherford, Napa Valley, Kirk Venge earned his degree in Viticulture and Enology at the prestigious University of California, Davis. After graduating, he set upon buying the Venge brand and winery from his family. From that foundation in Napa Valley, he ventured across the Mayacamas divide and set roots in Sonoma County, where his mother was born.
In addition to Croix Estate and his namesake vineyard and winery, Venge Vineyards, he is consulting winemaker for several, prominent micro-producers in Napa Valley.
We’ve been fans of Nils’ and Kirk’s wines since the earliest days and first met Kirk while visiting Nils at the old Penny Lane Family Vineyards at the Saddleback Winery in Rutherford and he took us up to the Rossini Ranch estate in Calistoga back in 2002 (shown above) which was under initial construction at the time.
This Croix Estate Narrow Gauge Chardonnay is a blend of select vineyards grown throughout Russian River Valley. With access to many of the best sites in the appellation, we felt compelled to create a wine that expresses the regional position in its entirety. These notable vineyards include Morelli Lane Vineyard - Dutton Ranch, Floodgate Vineyard, Calesa Vineyard, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Ritchie Vineyard, and Richard Dinner Vineyard.
Winemaker notes - “A fuller, yet bright and refreshing style of Chardonnay, this wine has a golden straw presence in the glass with a bouquet of raw honey, marmalade, fresh citrus zest, toasted pine nuts, rocky flints, all spice, toasted oak and lusciousness on the nose that is ever so inviting. Island ripe pineapple, apple, stone fruit, and crisp pear leave the mouthwatering in a cascade of pleasure.
Wine Enthusiast gave this release 94 points.
Golden straw colored, medium bodied, there was consensus that the crisp tropical and stone fruit tones were rather muted giving way to the mineral, rock flint and pine nuts, taking away, detracting from the potential of the terroir.
RM 92 points.
Radio-Couteau RRV Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
We wrote about Radio-Coteau and their portfolio of single vineyard designated wines in an earlier post last spring - Radio Coteau Sonoma Coast Los Colinas Syrah, excerpted below.
The interesting moniker Radio-Coteau (rā’ dē ō – kō tō’) is a French colloquial expression suggesting “word of mouth” , which literally translated means “broadcasting from the hillside”. Ironically, the origin of use of the term is from the French Northern Rhone wine region. The odd name is reminiscent of one of our favorite producer, Vieux Telegraph, ironically from the Rhône River Valley, but deriving its name for a different historical reason,
This is the handicraft of Eric Sussman, winegrower and proprietor of the the property going back to the early 2000s. While scouting vineyard sites for the first Radio-Coteau vintage, he met and began a relationship with Robert Von Weidlich, the owner of the property at that time. The 2002 Radio-Coteau Von Weidlich Zinfandel was the first product of that collaboration.
Eric established Radio-Coteau in 2002, focusing on the north coast vineyards of western Sonoma County and the Anderson Valley up to the north in Mendocino County.
The current owners acquired the Radio-Coteau historic 42-acre Estate vineyard and ranch located on a ridgetop above the town of Occidental in 2012. The estate winery was originally named Joseph Morelli & Sons before Prohibition, the Lemorel winery (as it was later known) dates back to 1892, when the first vines were planted.
The estate lies ten miles from the ocean on a ridgetop above Occidental, halfway between Santa Rosa and the Pacific coast, situated 800 feet above sea level, the property is a diverse agroecosystem, or terroir, with beneficial Goldridge soil. The benchland location is comprised of the fine sandy loam Goldridge soil, remnants of an ancient seabed, which provides excellent drainage and moderate fertility.
Eric, a New York State native, developed his passion for winegrowing while studying agriculture at Cornell University. After spending several years in Washington’s Yakima Valley, he worked in France as an apprentice working the 1995 vintage in Bordeaux at Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Pauillac, and 1996 in Burgundy at Domaine Comte Armand of Pommard and Domaine Jacques Prieur of Meursault. There he gained respect and appreciation for the intrinsic connection between land, people and the wine they produce.
Returning to the US, he spent a year at Bonny Doon Winery in Santa Cruz, before settling in Western Sonoma County where he spent four years as the associate winemaker for Dehlinger.
Most of his portfolio of wines are sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, which borders the Green Valley and Russian River Valley AVAs but he also produces some wines sourced from remote sites such as this one.
Radio-Coteau has established blocks of Syrah and old-vine Zinfandel, and recently replanted existing acreage to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. The estate has three vineyards.
This 2017 Radio-Coteau is a single vineyard designated wine from the Savoy Vineyards up near the town of Philo in Mendocino County, north of Sonoma.
The producer says of this site - “ Burgundy has proven that quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can be grown in the same soil, Corton hill being the classic example. Wines from this special place inspired our decision to make Chardonnay from the organically farmed Savoy Vineyard, whose soil and climate are also ideal for both Burgundian varietals.”
This 2017 release was rated 91-93 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous.
Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round, nicely balanced mineral, slightly obtuse sharp forward pear and lemon citrus fruits with melon, floral and stone fruits notes on a tangy acidic finish.
RM 92 points.
https://twitter.com/RadioCoteauWine
@RadioCoteauWine
Moving to the red wine flight with the beef tenderloin …
Chateau Palmer Margaux 1981 (Magnum)
This magnum birth year vintage Bordeaux is the oldest of a vertical collection of large format bottles for each of the kid’s birth years, and probably the most challenged questionable vintage for long term aging.
We toured the grounds of the magnificent Chateau and estate, just a couple of blocks from our B&B rooming house, during our visit to Margaux in 2019, but traded phone calls and emails several times with the producer during our visit and failed to set up our private tour and tasting.
At twenty three years the foil was intact, the label was perfect, and the most important cork was soft, spongy and disintegrated upon removal, and the fill level was bottom of neck, top of shoulder, (as shown) showing signs revealing its age.
I decanted this several hours before serving.
This release was awarded 92 points by John Gilman in 2016, 90-92 points by Wine Advocate back in 2002, and 91 points by Vinous most recently in 2023. Wine Spectator gave it 89 points.
Despite being from magnum which should age more gracefully and longer than a standard bottle, ours was showing its age and was past its prime drinking window.
The color was dark garnet colored, showing some murkiness and slight bricking on the brim. Medium to full bodied, the nice dark berry bouquet persisted while the somewhat subdued slightly austere fruit flavor notes were off set by a slight vegetative musky funkiness, with earthy, black tea, leather and tobacco notes on a moderate, fine tannin laced finish.
RM 86 points.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22774
Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Fantesca Estate and Winery, one of our favorite Napa Valley producers is owned by Duane and Susan Hoff, who moved on from their careers as executives at Best Buy for this Spring Mountain District winery above St Helena in the Mayacamas Range between Mt Veeder and Diamond Mountain.
We still held several cases and a vertical collection spanning a decade from our visits to the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007.
The Fantesca Spring Mountain District Estate and Winery (shown right), in the early years’ vintages, from 2002-2007, were managed by winemakers Nils and Kirk Venge; then in 2008 they teamed up with legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett.
From their ten acre vineyard, they produce ultra-premium 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and there is an acre planted in Petit Verdot.
They also source grapes from the Sonoma County Russian River Valley to produce a bright crisp full flavored Burgundian Chardonnay, the first ever by Heidi Barrett.
Fantesca products make for festive serving features or as elegant gifts as are lavishly packaged in stylish heavy etched glass bottles with painted 'labels', or in original wood cases.
The elegant upscale Fantesca packaging and branding features etched and painted weighty bottles each explaining the namesake Fantesca.'
The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience.
Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'
Being extraordinary marketeers, Duane and Susan brought on DLynn Proctor as wine ambassador Director. I first met DLynn when he was Ambassador and Education Director at legendary Australian producer Penfolds when he hosted a Penfolds Grange Wine Tasting Flight here in Chicago. What fun to meet DLynn in person having enjoyed watching his pursuit of his Master Sommelier Certification in the entertaining critically acclaimed documentary movie SOMM which is a feature on Netflix.
DLynn is more than a sommelier; he's a celebrity in his own right, having also appeared as Kevin Hart's sommelier in the Peacock Original TV Series "Hart to Heart" in addition to his prominent role in the documentary series 'SOMM,'he and add "Associate Producer" to his titles with his cameo and behind-the-scenes work in the Netflix Original film 'Uncorked.'
We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate.
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| Duane Hoff pouring 2002 vintage while visiting Rick & Linda in Chicago during 2004 vintage release marketing outreach tour. |
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Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.
This bottle included a fun, unique, creative Fantesca ‘Fortune Corkie’, a contest for all consumers to participate to submit entries in exchange for wine!
Fantesca Napa Valley, Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon is packaged in an elegant etched glass, painted bottle.
(2006 shown)
Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.
RM 91 points.
Cliff Lede “High Fidelity” Napa Valley Red 2018
Ryan brought from his cellar this ultra-premium Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend which he acquired as part of his wine club member allocation. This was my WOTN - Wine of the Night (of the reds, aside the Champagne).
This is from Cliff Lede estate vineyards, established in 2002, they encompass sixty acres in the famed Stags Leap District. Owner Cliff Lede has assembled a world class team with Vineyard Architect David Abreu and Winemaker Christopher Tynan.
We've visited the Cliff Lede estate on several of our Napa Valley wine trips and several of our wine buddies including son Ryan source allocated wines as members of their club.
Winemaker notes - “The 2018 vintage was a glorious growing year for Napa Valley. A frost-free and uniform bud break was followed by steady spring weather during flowering, allowing for an even and generous fruit set. Summer conditions were moderate, with warm days and cool nights, ideal for slow and steady grape maturation.”
“Optimal ripeness was achieved thanks to an early autumn of consistently warm, but not hot, days. The pristine ripening conditions allowed for very intense fruit flavor concentrations. The wines show exceptional balance with concentrated, ripe fruit complemented by bright acidity and supple, yet intense, structure.”
The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend are from our Twin Peaks estate vineyard, while the Cabernet Franc hails from acclaimed viticulturist David Abreu’s Madrona Ranch. The vineyards are farmed with meticulous attention to detail, maintaining yields at sparse levels—ranging from two to three tons per acre. The wine is composed of just a few of our best lots from these most cherished sites.
The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 66% of which was new, for twenty-two months. Production was 1,142 cases.
Winemaker Notes - “Dark ruby colored, the 2018 High Fidelity displays a succulent assortment of complex and intriguing aromas and flavors. It starts with a fragrance of sage, steeped Oolong black tea, rhubarb, and melted black licorice notes. There’s a rush of red currants, fruitcake, cinnamon candies, and black truffle flavors across the palate.”
“The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish.” – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking
This was rated 94 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck.
The texture is fine and complete and essence of tobacco leaf, minerals, and salted caramel glide across the lush fresh finish. – Christopher Tynan, Director of Winemaking
Dark garnet-purple color, medium to full-bodied, complex but elegant and polished, blackberry, black currant and raspberry fruits, nuances of milk chocolate, cinnamon spice, hints of cedar and graphite pencil lead silky finely grained tannins on the smooth lingering finish.,
RM 94 points.
