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Saturday, June 21, 2025

BYOB Fine Wines and Live Jazz at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton

BYOB Fine Wines - Wayfarer and Domaine Serene, and Live Jazz at Suzette’s Creperie Wheaton

Fellow Pour Boy Dr. Dan and Linda joined us for Saturday night dinner at Suzette’s Creperie in Wheaton (IL). We took BYOB from our cellar a premium red and white wine for the occasion, to be options based on our menu selections. 

Prior to heading out, we sipped on a seasonal Provençal Rose’ with appetizers, artisan Wisconsin cheeses, fresh berries, chocolate cherries and mixed nuts, and, Linda prepared some fresh artful Strawberry’s with fresh mozzarella cheese and basil. 



Landmark Creamery, Belleville, Wisconsin Gouda Duet - pasteurized cow and sheep milk cheese, and Grand Cru from Roth Cheese, Monroe, WI. 

Caves d'Esclans “The Palm” Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence, Rose’ Blend 2024

Just having finished reading one of Peter Mayles’ classic books about Provence, I was inspired to imbibe in some traditional Rose’. Also, our French friend, Phillipe, from the area, who hosted us that trip, will be visiting this weekend so I’m getting prepped for further wine and travel discussions coming up. 

Anyone who thinks Provençal Rose’s are modest or unsophisticated wines are in for a surprise. We discovered and experienced another such wine as part to the Premium Wine Pairing at Three Michelin Star Alinea restaurant year before last - Domaines Ott Château de Selle Côtes de Provence Mourvedre Blend Rose' 2020. 

That incredible dinner and wine flight are featured in this blogpost - Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table

We drove through the region and through Côtes de Provence along the Cote d’ Azur during our Four days in Provence - Aix - Meyrargues trip in 2019. The area is featured in a separate blogpost about that trip - Red Wine with Chili? Bandol.

The winemakers at Caves d'Esclans produce what some consider some of the world's greatest Rose’ wines. This is produced from estate vineyard’s grapes as well as select best quality grapes obtained from relationships with local grape growers. 

Château d’Esclans is situated in the heart of Provence, northeast of St. Tropez. The Château and estate were 2006 by Sacha Lichine whose vision was to create the greatest rosés in the world. He is credited with igniting the “Rosé Renaissance” and produces a portfolio of seven different variations of the classic Provençal wine. 

This is the sixteenth vintage release of Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel. It is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle (Vermentino) grapes. The cepage or percent/ types of different grape varieties that will make up the ultimate blend will differ with each new vintage, containing varietals Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle, Vermentino, Syrah and/or Tibouren. however the taste profile will remain much the same.

It was rated 92 points by James Suckling.

Pale pink colored, medium bodied, round, flavorful bone dry raspberry and strawberry fruits with bright spicy, tangy crisp acidity with a smooth lush finish.

RM 90 points. 



We've featured Suzette's Crêperie Wheaton several times in these pages, such as this one back in May last year in this blogpost.  

Suzette's Crêperie in nearby Wheaton (IL), is one of the few authentic French cuisine eateries in the western suburbs, and one of our favorite go-to casual fine dining sites. 

Sited downtown Wheaton city centre, adjacent the convenient muni parking garage, a block from the Metra station, Suzette's offers intimate casual fine dining, al fresco dining out front or on the rear patio, a private dining room for special dinners, and a bar, adjacent the authentic Suzette's Boulangerie & Pâtisserie, a French inspired bakery.  

A special treat on summer Saturday nights, Suzette’s featured live music in the cozy intimate dining room. 

Tonight, we were entertained by Judy Roberts playing piano and singing, and Greg Fishman on the Xylophone, flute and saxophone. 

Judy has been called “Chicago’s Favorite Jazz Woman,” by the Chicago Tribune, she is recognized worldwide for her jazz performances. She has received multiple Grammy nominations and has performed at international jazz festivals from Singapore to Holland to Monterey, California and Newport Beach, and, Chicago’s London House will always be her flagship. 
  

Greg, acclaimed nationally and internationally as an artist and teacher, has performed with Woody Hermann’s Big Band and countless other well-known performers. With multiple recordings and numerous publications, he is a teacher and mentor to many young musicians emerging on today’s music scene today. Greg is one of the foremost experts on the music of Stan Getz.

As featured in earlier previous posts in these pages, we started with the the Chicken Liver Mousse and Country Style Pâté, served with Dijon mustard, Cornichons and delicious Red Onion Marmalade with toasted Brioche on the side, and the Three Cheese Soufflé with Goat, Blue and Gruyere Cheeses.


Linda M selected the 'daily special' Sole Meunière, which is one of my favorite dishes.

Suzette's Sole Meunière is served in the classic French style, Filets of Sole were dredged in flour, pan fried in butter and served with the resulting brown butter herb sauce, parsley and lemon, alongside spring vegetables and mashed potatoes. Wonderful, delicious, as usual.


Linda A and I both selected one of the evening’s Specials - Braised Beef with Papardelle Pasta in a brown beef and carrot sauce. Portions were ample including the amount of beef and the dish was delectable.  


Dan ordered the Duck Confit Duck Breast with Rich Duck Jus on a Bed of Mushroom Risotto, which was also delectable.

I brought two of our favorite wines that I believe may be among the best drinking selections from our cellar for pairing with tonight’s entree choices. 


Knowing one of us would likely be ordering the Sole, we brought BYOB from our home cellar one of our current favorite rich Chardonnay's as an accompaniment,Wayfarer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay.

Wayfarer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2018

This is from the Fort Ross-Seaview sub-region in the Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County appellation. 

We’ve enjoyed various vintages of this label BYOB at multiple restaurants over the past couple of years including, ironically, previously on this same date, including ... Wayfarer Chardonnay BYOB at Carnivore & Queen.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/12/wayfarer-chardonnay-byob-at-carnivore.html#more

I featured an earlier release of this label back last June in this blogpost, Wayfarer Sonoma County Seaview Ross Chardonnay with lobster and fresh corn on the cob. In that post, I wrote in depth then about the producer, vineyard site and this label which bears repeating so it’s excerpted below.

We toured the Sonoma Coast and Sonoma County and Russian River Valley during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.

Notably, in recent months prior to that post, we'd made five trips and had a dozen and half seafood dinners on the Gulf Coast, and had explored and enjoyed a wide selection of ultra-premium Chardonnays - SeaSmoke, Kistler, Wayfarer, Far Niente, Domaine Serene Reserve, and others. In the end, this was the most expressive, distinctive, bright and vibrant of any of our recent Chardonnay selections.

Son Ryan discovered and turned me on to this label. While picking up a Bordeaux futures delivery at Binny's, our Chicagoland Beverage Superstore, I found and picked up the last few remaining bottles in stock. 

This is from well known Napa Valley producer Jayson Pahlmeyer known for his Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red “California Mouton” Bordeaux varietal wines. Jayson collaborated with the great winemaker Helen Turley and together produced consistently award-winning wines. 

We're huge fans of Pahlmeyer wines of which we hold many labels across several vintages in our cellar, which are featured regularly in these pages. 

After nearly 30 years as an acclaimed Napa Valley vintner Jayson Pahlmeyer became increasingly entranced by the wines of Burgundy. “Every oenophile eventually gravitates to the wines of Burgundy,” he says. In the early 1990s, Jayson began seeking out the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards in the world.

A close friend, legendary French wine importer Martine Saunier, had located two parcels for sale in Burgundy – Clos de la Roche, a Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyard in Côte de Nuits Grand Cru, and Corton Vergennes, a Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyard in Corton. Pahlmeyer's notable winemaker, Helen Turley, was to make the wine with the hands-on assistance of the renowned Michel Niellon at his Chassagne-Montrachet winery. However, just after the papers were signed, the deal was nullified by an obscure Burgundian real estate clause that permitted last-minute alternative offers.

Helen Turley discovered Wayfarer, an organic farm on remote ridges on the Sonoma Coast, named for the dream of its owners, Dave and Dorothy Davis, to travel the world. Her own vineyard, Marcassin estate and vineyards were just down the road and Helen understood well the extraordinary character of fruit this land could yield. 
 
When the Davises listed the farm for sale in 1998, Turley brought good friend and fellow vintner Jayson Pahlmeyer to survey the site. Pahlmeyer recognized the proximity to the ocean and cool sea air tempering the brilliant sun, with Goldridge soil with thick forest of redwoods to the east and fog-blanketed bluffs to the west, had the potential to produce world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Helen declared it destined to be “the La Tache of California” and Jayson promptly claimed the land for his own.

Jason selected legendary viti-culturalist and producer David Abreu to plant the Wayfarer vineyard in 2002, and in 2005, Jayson started blending Wayfarer Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with fruit from Russian River vineyards, bottling it under the Pahlmeyer label. By 2012, the vineyard’s exceptional fruit produced wine worthy of its own vineyard designated namesake label. Jayson tapped his daughter, Cleo Pahlmeyerto oversee Wayfarer. 

Wayfarer vineyard's 30 undulating acres lie in the Fort Ross-Seaview 27,500-acre sub-appellation on the far north-western end of the Sonoma Coast AVA. Defined as a distinct appellation in 2011, the extreme landscape is often deemed “the true Sonoma Coast” as it overlooks the Pacific beaches and receives the cool wind and fog from the frigid California Current flowing down the coast. The entire appellation resides above the fog line at an elevation of 800 feet and higher, above the fogline thereby allowing ample sunshine for ripening. Situated on a jagged portion of the San Andreas Fault, most of the acreage is unfarmable due its dramatic terrain. The 21 acres of vineyards are planted primarily to Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay and slight amount of Syrah.

We visited the area and drove the scenic rugged Sonoma Coast, staying in Bodega Bay, during our Napa/Sonoma County Wine Experience back in 2017.  

Cleo Pahlmeyer, proprietor/general manager of Wayfarer, was raised in Napa in the wine business and culture. After receiving a BA in Art History from the University of Virginia, she went on to earn a Master’s Degree in Connoisseurship of Fine and Decorative Art at Sotheby’s Institute of Art in London.

Returning to the family winery in 2008 after working in the international art world, Cleo worked closely with her father to learn every aspect of the family business. Beginning in sales and progressing to manage direct to consumer sales and marketing, then public relations, she went on to be appointed President in 2017.

Wayfarer is a family affair, with Cleo, a mother of three, mentored by her father, and joined by her husband, Jamie Watson, who pours his own passion for wine into Wayfarer. “I must be my father’s daughter,” Cleo explains, “because like him, I have naturally gravitated to Pinot Noir. Wayfarer is a very special place for me personally. It has a soul that can only be felt by breathing in its air, walking on its soil, feeling its warmth."

Wayfarer's winemaker is Todd Kohn who grew up in Redding, three hours north of Sonoma. After graduating from UC Davis with a degree in Viticulture and Enology, Todd first worked at the California sparkling wine house, Schramsberg, where he worked in the vineyard, lab and cellar, learning all aspects of winegrowing and winemaking. He went to gain further experience at several premiere Napa Valley wine producers including Opus One. He then spent time in Australia working in the Mornington Peninsula region of Australia where he worked growing and crafting world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Todd joined Wayfarer in 2013 as Assistant to the Winemaker, working the next 5 years with the Consulting Winemaker to establish Wayfarer’s vineyard practices and winemaking techniques, before taking the helm as Winemaker in December of 2017.

Just this month, Wayfarer was featured in a small piece in Wine Spectator Magazine noting the remoteness of their estate, and the recent opening of a hospitality center tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. 

Wayfarer Wayfarer Vineyard Sonoma County Seaview Ross Chardonnay 2018

This is the ultra-premium flagship label for Wayfarer Chardonnay. While Cleo Pahlmayer, Proprietor, oversees the operations, Founder Jason Pahlmeyer's signature conspicuously adorns the label. 

Tonight we drank the 2018 vintage of this label, the oldest of several releases that we hold in our cellar. 

This is a blend of four different clones planted on the Wayfarer property, Berlenbach Old Wente, Dijon 95, Hyde and Mount Eden.

This wine was aged in barrel for 15 months, and bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Winemaker’s Vintage Notes - “2018 was marked by a long and temperate growing season that allowed for a calm harvest. The Chardonnay vines began to emerge on March 29th in block 12. Overall rainfall was 35% below our average, with only 37.5 inches. However, a large portion of this rain came in April, just after budbreak and long before bloom. With this spring rain filling the soil profile, the vines were able to thrive in moderate weather through May, where daily high temperatures averaged 65 degrees. Chardonnay bloom occurred in the final days of May. Temperatures remained moderate throughout the summer with no major heat waves. It was an ideal, lengthy ripening season, coaxing complex aromas and texture from our Chardonnay, while maintaining bright acidity. Chardonnay harvest began in bock 6 on September 17th and concluded with block 29 on September 29th”.

Producer’s Tasting Notes - “The 2018 vintage is the first to include our newest Chardonnay blocks – 2 acres grafted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in 2016. A bouquet of orange blossom, jasmine, toasted almonds and lemon zest prepares the palate for beautiful acid and wet stone. This fresh structure is enveloped in a rich texture that balances the linear focus of the wine.”

From the Wayfarer Estate Vineyard  in the Fort Ross-Seaview appellation, it was barrel fermentedand spent 16 months in oak, about 70% new.

This release was awarded 98 points by Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate, 96 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 94 points by Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator. 

This release was awarded 98 points by Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate, 96 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 94 points by Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator.

Golden straw colored, medium to full-bodied, complex, concentrated, powerful, bright vibrant rich layers of baked apple, pear and melon with hints toast, nuts and brioche flavors, crisp integrated acidity, and a long unctuous lingering finish

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3556369

https://www.wayfarervineyard.com/

https://twitter.com/WayfarerWine @WayfarerWine

Domaine Serene Willamette Valley Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2013

One of our perennial favorites although if you read this blog you'll know we don't do a lot of Pinot Noir compared to other varietals. 

Linda and I discovered this wine at a memorable outing during one of our get-away weekends to Chicago,  at Smith & Wollensky sitting outside overlooking the river for a summer afternoon wine, salad and cheese interlude. 

Domaine Serene produce at least three ultra premium priced Pinots above this one, none of which have I tasted. I look forward to doing so at some point as I love this wine. I am not a fan, however of their lower priced entry level offerings including Yamhill Cuvee. 

I've often written how elusive is a low priced high QPR Pinot Noir. Over the years we’ve liked this and kept multiple vintages of it in our cellar. We liked it a lot more when it was available for $59, as it has escalated to $95 in recent years. 

Winemaker Notes - “A true illustration of the art of blending, the 2013 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir is a wonderfully complex elegant wine with intriguing notes of black cherry, currants, cloves and nutmeg. With some air, notes of allspice, cardamom and black tea emerge from the glass with a subtle lift of cocoa powder and vanilla. In the mouth, the wine shows elegance and finesse with brooding depth and concentration, vibrant red fruits, silky tannins and great persistence.”

The 2013 Pinot Noir Evanstad Reserve is raised in barrel for 16 months using 57% new oak.

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and by James Suckling, 91points by Wine Spectator, and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Ruby colored medium to full bodied, pleasant sipping, soft bramble raspberry fruits with dusty rose, black tea, spice, earth and hints of pepper, mocha and mushroom on a silky tannin bright acidic finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2045514

http://www.domaineserene.com/

http://suzettescreperie.com/

Thursday, June 12, 2025

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc for refreshing summer sipper

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc for refreshing summer sipper

A casual evening at home, continuing our viewing of the Netflix series, Blindspot, we opened this Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc with a plate of artisan cheeses, biscuits and fresh berries. 

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label and pulled the oldest vintage in the cellar as part of effective cellar rotation and inventory management. 

Cliff Lede Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Cliff Lede is one of our favorite producers and a visit to the Napa Valley Stag's Leap District estate has been a highlight of several of Napa Valley excursions.

The Cliff Lede winery estate and vineyards with their picturesque sculpture gardens at Yountville Cross Road and Silverado Trail are one of our popular visits during our many trips to Napa Valley. We've had many memorable visits there with the most memorable, our private tour and tasting during our Napa Wine Experience 2009.

In certain vintages this is our favorite Sauvignon Blanc with its bright expressive fruits - pear, lychee, passion fruit and peach with hints of grapefruit and notes of lemon citrus. This 2017 is one of those vintages - butter colored, medium bodied, crisp clean, full flavorful fruits with nicely balanced acidity.

RM 91 points.

Fellow Pour Boy, wind buddy Bill C had posted - "Crisp, clean and refreshing. Pale straw color. Zesty grapefruit and lemon on the palate. Nicely balanced acidity. Always a favorite."

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2942346

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

Friday, May 30, 2025

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery

Ravello Restaurant Montgomery 

Returning home from our Destin, Florida vacation getaway we stopped in Montgomery, AL for dinner. What a pleasant surprise to discover the history and architecture of Alabama’s state capitol city, and the Capital campus and grounds, federal building (s), and parks and monuments, testaments to the historic old south slave markets and the civil rights movement. It is definitely worth a return trip as a destination in it’s own right to explore further! 

We were drawn to Montgomery to dine at Ravello Restaurant with its fine dining offering coastal Italian cuisine based on the rich culinary heritage of the Italian Amalfi Coast, with fresh seafood, pastas and meats, and Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list.


Ravello’s magnificent multi-story dining room boasts historic architecture of a former bank. The site was a City Fed restoration project, integrating three buildings from 1926, which now house Ravello its rooftop Bar Attico and private event spaces, in the heart of downtown Montgomery, blocks from the government district.


For a starter we shared the Roasted Beet Salad with Arugula, candied blood orange, prosciutto, goat cheese and blood orarange vinaigrette. 

Linda ordered the Seared Gulf Red Snapper with Salsa Verde, and a side of the Brussels Sprouts which were extraordinary and a highlight of the meal.


For my dinner I had the Filet of Beef with black garlic butter and a side of Polenta. 

The Ravello wine list/cellar offers 265 different wines from a collection of 2200 bottles. The twelve page Ravello wine list holds a.Wine Spectator Awarded with two pages of WBTG - Wines By The Glass, a page of Champagne and Sparkling wines, a page of Whites, three pages of Reds, plus a page of Reserve Wines, a page of Limited and Rare Wines, and a page of La Sirena wines by legendary winemaker Heidi Barrett. 

Some of the highlights or interesting labels are three vintages of TESSERON ESTATE "PYM-RAE" MT. VEEDER RED BLEND at $750 each, and culminating in a DOMAINE DE LE ROMANEE-CONTI “ECHEZEAUX” GRAND CRU 2020 for $1800. Pages of the wine list are shown below:




Repeating what I have often said about such wine lists, that “I can’t afford to drink my own cellar”, two wines that we drank from our cellar recently were offered, notably, Chateau Gruaud Larose 2005 (Gruaud Larose BYOB at Entourage DG) for $575, and Chateau Palmer (Family Christmas Celebration Dinner) 2011 for $950. 

That said, it just so happened I had in the car a vintage Bordeaux that I was transporting from our Destin remote wine cellar back home, so I pulled it for a BYOB wine accompaniment with our dinner. Based on the above calibrations, it would’ve carried a wine list price of around $600. (This bottle was brought by fellow ‘Pour Boy’ wine buddy Lyle to Destin for a recent visit and we didn’t get to it during our multiple dinners. We’ll enjoy a replacement together from our home cellar at an upcoming dinner when back in Chicago.) 

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux 2012 

The Château Smith Haut Lafitte estate lies about 30 km south of the City of Bordeaux, 4 km outside the village of Léognan. 

The historic estate dates back to the 14th century when Verrier Du Bosq signed the first recorded deeds for a few vine rows. George Smith, a Scottish wine merchant, acquired the property in the mid-18th century and named it after himself.

The Fleurs-de-lis emblem logo on the label represents the three branches for George Smith’s three children, and representing the Verrier du Bosq family who founded the vineyard, a crescent emblematic of the Port of Bordeaux: the “Port of the Moon”. The port became an important wine export shipping center sending regional wines to England and the Netherlands and beyond.

In 1842, the estate was acquired by Lodi Martin Duffour-Dubergier, Mayor of Bordeaux, and signer of the official 1855 classification, who elevated Smith Haut Lafitte wines to Grand Cru Exceptional status.

In the early 20th century, the négociant firm Eschenauer, headed by the famous “Uncle Louis” Eschenauer, sold Smith Haut Lafitte wines and ended up buying the château in 1958.

In 1990, the estate was acquired by current owners, Daniel and Florence Cathiard, acquired with the firm intention of continuing its tradition of excellence, “to do everything possible to make each vintage of red and white wine worthy of our magnificent terroir.” 

The estate terroir boasts the classic Gravels « Graves Gunziennes » forcing the vines to dig more than 6 meters deep and the grapes benefit from the stones’ mirror effect from the sun to aid in optimal ripening. The vines average age is 38 years. 

The Cathiards Aspent spent three years renovating the estate and now live there in the 18th century chartreuse dating from George Smith’s time. Grounds of forests, hedges, and hives surround the 87 hectares of the single block vineyard.

This 2012 release is 55 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 % Merlot, 4 % Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.
It was aged 18 months on lees in French oak barrels (60 % new) made at the Château onsite cooperage, with one racking only, and then ageing adjusted for each wine.

Comments by Fabien Teitgen, Technical Director - “Château Smith Haut Lafitte red 2012 offers a beautiful dark bright red colour with blue hue. The already expressive nose reveals very fresh notes of red fruits (strawberry, cherry) with a hint of smoke. Once aerated, the nose complexity appears with delicate notes of spices (star anise, liquorice, cinnamon), of red fruits as well as beautiful and elegant flower notes. Then the nose stretches out with terroir aromas of flint stone and fireplace. The attack in mouth is fresh and balanced with a fleshy and unctuous texture. The wine is a subtle balance between maturity and freshness: the maturity from the concentration, the impressive unctuosity and sugarity and the beautiful structure of long and classy tannins; the freshness from the tension, the dynamism and the aroma sparkle. The aromatic is very close to that of the nose, characterised by the freshness with crunchy red fruits, spices notes of liquorice, dry herbs, fireplace and flint stone.”

With a suggested drinking window of 2017 - 2027, this is no doubt at its apex for optimal consumption, but will certainly continue to hold for another decade or more.

This release was rated 95 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and a concensus 94 points by Decanter, James Suckling, Vinous, Wine Enthusiast (*Cellar Selection*) and Wine Spectator. 

Describing the 2012 release Decanter wrote, “ By this point, more than 20 years of intelligent investment by owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard had paid off.” Vinous wrote “ This is another classy Pessac-Léognan and a wonderful example from Pessac-Léognan that might well be leading the pack at this stage.”

This is as good as and as memorable Smith Haut Lafitte I recall ever having tasted, except perhaps their monumental 100 point release a few years ago. 

We enjoy tasting each new release of this label and meeting the producer as regular participants in each year’s UGCB release tour tasting in Chicago each year, (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)),  

Dark garnet-purple colored, medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, complex, rich and pure nicely integrated blackberry and hints of blueberry fruits with notes of tobacco, chocolate, coffee, spice, black tea and tar with smooth polished velvety plush tannins and a long, long finish. 

RM 94 points. 







Sunday, May 18, 2025

Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine

Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac 1982

As part of the festivities of the family birthday celebration dinner, with the salad, and most notably the grilled scallops, and dessert, we had this vintage aged dessert wine. This is from son Ryan’s birthyear, that we have held for a suitable occasion such as a family gathering like today.  

This is from Monbazillac, a small village a few kilometres south of Bergerac in the Dordogne River Valley, about 120km inland, east of Bordeaux in southwest France. Monbazillac is also a designated wine growing AOC or appellation for sweet wines made in an area in the wider region of Bergerac, in southwestern France.

Monbazzillac is home to France's original sweet white wine appellation, The Monbazillac subregion in the Guyenne wine region in southwest France extends over almost 3,600 hectares. Nearly ninety different producers  produce a portfolio of over eight hundred wines from the area. 

Not as famous nor as expensive as their neighbors from Sauternes, fifty miles to the west, the appellation in Bordeaux known for sweet dessert wines, Monbazillac wines are still some of the more widely known French sweet white wines. They are produced from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes affected by botrytis.

The vineyard area lies on the southern bank of the Dordogne river as it flows toward Bordeaux surrounding the town, defined to the south by the Gardonette river, a tributary of the Dordogne. The land between these two rivers rises from the Dordogne valley before sloping southward to the Gardonette. The best wines tend to come from the northern slopes in the valley.

The maritime climate is well suited to the development of sweet wines. Oceanic influences are funneled in along the river valley and the confluence of the rivers makes for high levels of humidity, usually in the form of mist or dew. This humidity burns off in the warm afternoons during the growing season, increasing the chances of the development of noble rot or botrytis, which results in the high sugar content in the grapes for making the sweet wines.

There are three distinct soil types in the area, most based on the limestone that is common in this part of France. Deep clay soils cover the ground at the bottom of the slopes, with thinner, washed-out soils mid-slope. Along the ridges, molasse soils are more often found, providing a well-drained environment with sufficient water storage for the vines to produce high-quality grapes.

Monbazillac's vineyards can be traced back to Benedictine monasteries in the 11th Century. The monks initially discarded the vines when finding them affected by noble rot, but not wanting to waste the harvest, they went ahead and made the wine, discovering that the rot had only improved the flavor.

Monbazillac received its AOC status in 1936, however, appellation rules surrounding grape yields and alcohol levels are not as stringent as those of Sauternes.

Only grapes that have reached their peak ripeness are selected by the grape-pickers who make several passes through the vineyard to pick the grapes ready for picking. There may be several different harvest passes on each row of vines. 

According to one blogger, Monbazillac Clos Fontindoule “is a  property formerly owned by monsieur Cros which had a vine density between 10 and 20000 vines ... nobody knew exactly as it was not exactly ranked aligned...) which could easily rival Yquem in my eyes ....”

Doing a Google wine search of this label, I find one of my tasting notes going back to 2010, prior to using CellarTracker wine app for such things. I took a bottle of this label to fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Bill and Beth C’s son Will’s wedding celebration for a birthyear vintage tribute. We drank it at reception at the Indian Hills CC in Kansas City. 

My notes as published from that tasting -

“Clos Fontindoule Dordogne Monbazillac 1982 - RM89 - Dark golden color of weak tea - smoke and tea tones predominate on the subdued fruit flavors of apricot, peach and lychie.’

“Tasted with Linda, Bill and Beth C, Rusty and Ann J. at Kate & Will's gala reception at Indian Hills CC - KC.”

Tonight, fifteen years later, at 43 years, this wine was remarkably vibrant, still holding its own. The label, foil, and most importantly the fill level and cork were still in pristine condition, taking into account their age. The cork was tight and intact and was extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller.

The color had turned tea colored, which while darkened from aging, wasn’t as dark as I might expect for this age.

Tea colored, full bodied, thick unctuous sweet mango, apricot and lychee nectar fruit flavors punctuated by notes of honey, hint of espresso, some smoke and roasted nuts.

RM 89 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=197675 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?197675

My photo of that bottle of this label from that posting. At that time, it was more golden straw colored. 



Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner

Aged vintage wines for family birthday dinner 

The family gathered at our house for a gala celebration dinner for my upcoming birthday. 

We grilled out cowboy tomahawk ribeye steaks and bbq baby back ribs, and scallops, accompanied by salad, baked beans, mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and Mac-n-cheese (for the kids). 


The cooks, (above) Linda, master chef, and Ryan, griller and carver - naturally absent, missing from the family photo above, (as is Reid who was playing ball out in the yard with friends). 




Grilled scallops on herb buttered toast points 

For a wine accompaniment I pulled from the cellar a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay for the whites and two aged vintage big reds wines for the beef and ribs, and an aged vintage dessert wine (also a birthyear vintage). 

I also selected several younger Right Bank Bordeaux varietal wines, in the event we went through the open bottles, or needed a back-up if the first choice wines were not up to par, due to age or other conditions.  Almost regrettably, we didn’t open those wines which I was looking forward to trying, hence they’ll be available for another day. 

LaJota Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1990

La Jota Vineyards in Napa Valley date back to 1888 when winemaking pioneer W.S. Keyes planted some of the first vines on Howell Mountain. Ten years later his contemporary, Fredrick Hess, built a stone winery and established La Jota Vineyard Co., named for its location on the Mexican parcel Rancho La Jota. 

Both men won medals for their Howell Mountain wines in the Paris Exposition of 1900.

La Jota Vineyard Co. continues today as a boutique producer crafting small-production mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, sourced from the winery’s estate and from nearby W.S. Keyes Vineyard.

Today, Howell Mountain is known for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa’s rugged northeastern hills with its volcanic ash soils deposited millenia ago by Mount Konocti. Howell Mountain itself is a weathered volcanic "knob" with two distinct soils: crumbly white decomposed volcanic ash known as rhyolitic tuff and red, iron-laden soils of clay and volcanic rock.

La Jota estate vines develop good root systems in these well-draining, porous, nutrient-lean soils, allowing them to self-regulate the amount of water they take in. And the nutrient lean soils force the vines to struggle to survive, forcing their energy to the fruit. The result is tiny berries and clusters with very high flavor concentration.

Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon was made famous by legendary wine maker Randy Dunn, who gained fame at Caymus in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning his attention to Howell Mountain, it became officially recognized as the first sub-region of Napa Valley in 1983. We visited the Dunn Vineyards estate up at Angwin on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn.

The Howell Mountain AVA includes 1,000 acres of vineyards interspersed by forestlands at the north end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall or Napa Valley. With vineyards at 1,400 to 2,000 feet in elevation, they sit above the fog line. The days on Howell Mountain remain cooler than those in the heart of the valley, giving the grapes a bit more time on the vine.

The soils, shallow and infertile with good drainage, are volcanic ash and red clay and produce highly concentrated berries with thick skins. The resulting wines are full of structure and potential to age.

We tasted the recent release of La Jota Howel Mtn Cabernet at the SoWal (Southwest Walton Beaches) Wine Festival in Destin, (FL) last year was one of the highlights of that event and we acquired their current release of this label at that time - Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin.

Notably, LaJota was acquired by and is now part of the vast portfolio of Jackson Family Wines, who amassed a vast Billion dollar wine empire that now comprises some of the most storied labels, such as this. It was being presented by Jackson Wines at the SoWal festival. 

I wrote about Jess Jackson and the building of the family wine empire in earlier blogposts in these pages - most recently last month - La Crema Coastal Chardonnay with Homemade Chicken Piccata, and earlier, Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

And, we’ve featured other vintages of this label in other notable tastings -Boy's Night Out Cellar Tours Wine Tasting, and Dad's Day Father Son Tasting Birthyear Wines.

Today, La Jota’s winemaker is Chris Carpenter, a graduate from the University of Illinois with a BS in biology, who also earned an MBA in Chicago before working various roles in the food and beverages industry. During those years in Chicago he developed a love of food and wine, and a network of colleagues in the business.

After a visit to Napa Valley in 1993, he decided to pursue a career in wine and went on to earn a Masters in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis. 

In 1998 he found himself working as the Assistant Winemaker at Cardinale where he learned making wines from mountain terroir. In 2005 he became the Winemaker for La Jota.

Tonight we opened this vintage 1990 release,  a birthyear vintage wine of son Alec, celebrating my birthday, and he and wife Vivianna expecting (grand) baby number three. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker back in 1993, when he wrote, this wine should “reach its apogee by the turn of the century and last 20 or more years”. 

At 35 years, it has held up remarkably well, despite the tattered label, the fill level and cork were still in great condition, considering their age. 

The wine showed no signs of diminution from aging and still well within its drinking window, albeit not likely to continue aging beyond a few more years. 

Winemaker Notes - “Where rivers, creeks and property lines usually define an AVA, the Howell Mountain boundaries are defined by a 1,400 foot elevation contour line as the lowest point and the highest vineyards at 2,400 feet above sea level. The vines share the mountain with pines, oaks, madrone and the easternmost stand of the coastal redwoods.”

Opaque garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, rich, round concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of minerals, cassis, and classic Howell Mtn spices, with firm but approachable tannins on the lingering, what Wine Spectator calls “fleshy” finish.  

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?771991

https://www.lajotavineyardco.com/

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise Pomerol 1989

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise is a renowned producer of Right Bank Bordeaux wine, located in the commune of Pomerol, in the shadow of the church tower, and less than two kilometres, within walking distance, of notable producers Château Clinet (300m) and Château Petrus (900m). 

The Pomerol AOC (Appellation Originale Controllee) is located in the Libourne region on the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, just upstream from its confluence with the Isle. The town of Libourne, has a port that was used for exporting wines as far back as 1269. 

In the 1900s, winegrowers got together and made joint purchases. Working together, they set up a winegrowers’ and farmers’ union to improve their wine and protect the Pomerol appellation. The AOC area was defined in 1928, recognised in 1936 and revised in 2011.

Today, the Pomerol AOC is renowned for its great wines such as Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Petit Village and Gazin. The Pomerol appellation comprises around 800 hectares with 140 producers with an average of 6 hectares, producing 31,000 hectolitres of red wine a year.

The origins of the Château du Domaine de l’Église vineyard can be traced back to 1589, at the beginning of the reign of the Good King Henri (Henri IV). The estate was seized by authorities during the French Revolution and in 1793 it was sold to the Bertin family though a national property sale.

In 1893, the Bertin family produced ten barrels of wine, rising to twenty barrels by 1949. Simon Landard, Laure Bertin’s nephew, ran the estate a few years later. The estate was acquired in 1973 by Émile Castéja, 
Château du Domaine de l’Eglise was owned by Philippe Castéja and his sister, Chantal Castéja Prében-Hansen. Philippe ran the estate and improved the quality of the wine over the years. The wine from Château du Domaine de l’Eglise is considered a Grand Vin. Today the estate is run by the firm of Borie-Manoux.

The 7-hectare vineyard of Château du Domaine de l’Église is mainly planted with Merlot (95%), with a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%). The vines have an average age of 40 years.  The vineyard is situated on a plateau with classic Pomerol terroir, characterized by gravelly soil and clay subsoil, which imparts a distinct minerality to the wine. 

At thirty six years, this wine was holding up remarkably well and still very much in its drinking window, but certainly not likely to improve with any further aging, and best to be consumed in the next couple years. The label and foil and most importantly the fill level was top of neck and the cork was still intact despite being partly saturated, it was holding its integrity. It was carefully extracted using an ‘Ahso’ two pronged cork puller (shown). It likely would have collapsed in the bottle if pressed by a traditional cork screw. I always use this method, especially with older wines (except for synthetic corks).  

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate in 1993. 

This was even better the following day, being more balanced and settled, after decades of aging in the cellar.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, deep rich round ripe balanced blackberry, cherry and plum fruits with herbs and vibrant spice notes with soft fine tannins on a long sensuous finish. 

RM 90 points, better, 91 points the following day. 


We also opened a birthyear vintage aged sweet dessert wine which paired perfectly with the scallops as well as the salad and later, the dessert. I wrote about this in a follow on blogpost - Clos Fontindoule Monbazillac Dessert Wine.

Sunday, April 27, 2025

Caiarossa Pergolaia with pizza and pasta

Caiarossa  Pergolaia with pizza and pasta … 

With leftovers from the previous nights’ dinner (s), we enjoyed these nice sipping wines. 

Follow Pour Boy Lyle, visiting from Chicago, brought from his home cellar this hearty red Italian ideal for tonight as written by Wine Advocate, “ It's a versatile red to match with all kinds of pastas and meats.’. 

Caiarossa "Pergolaia" Toscana 2016 

The Caiarossa estate is located near the village of Riparbella, a village of less than 2000 inhabitants in the Province of Pisa in the Italian wine region of Tuscany. It is located about 45 miles southwest of Florence and about 25 miles southeast of Pisa, a few miles from the sea. 

The estate has 250 acres, 90 of which are planted with vines in 60 parcels, with seven red and four white varieties, cultivated according to soil type, altitude and exposure. 

Since 2004, the estate has been owned by the Albada Jelgersma family, who have been active in the wine business since the 1970’s. They also own Château Giscours in Margaux.

The Caiarossa Winemaker is Marco Lipparini who says of this wine, “The 2016 Pergolaia is all about matching grapes to soils, a tribute to Tuscany from a French-owned estate better known for its international approach.” 

This is mostly Sangiovese with the other 30% composed of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 

This was rated 94 by Wine Spectator and 92 points by James Suckling and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

Dark ruby colored, medium to full bodied, a bit tight and structured, blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of floral, mineral, spice, herbs and black tea with full firm tannins and bright acidity on the finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3654510


www.caiarossa.com