Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe

Herman Story Tomboy Viognier BYOB at Beachwalk Cafe 

Hosting in-laws Pat & Rodger at The Cove, our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we dined at Henderson Park Inn Resort Beachwalk Cafe, on the deck watching the magnificent sunset over the waters of the Gulf (of America). 

I’ve written often in these pages about Beachwalk Cafe, one of our favorite dining spots on the Emerald Coast that we frequent each time we in town including these past dinner visits: 

Sunset dining at Beachwalk Cafe

Hope Cuvée at Beachwalk Cafe, Destin

Lewis Chardonnay BYOB at Henderson Beachwalk Cafe

Henderson Beachwalk Cafe Dinner with a view

Tonight, the ladies ordered and shared the signature Beachwalk Grouper Vince with Pecan Crusted, Crispy Potato Cake, Haricot Verts, Honey Worcestershire Sauce.

Both of the men ordered the Snapper topped with lump crab meat, with Corn Truffle Risotto, Madeira Mushrooms, Matchstick Truffle Fries in a Citrus Beurre Blanc sauce. 

I took from our remote Destin wine cellar, BYOB, this interesting aged, big, bold Rhône Valley varietal white blend from Santa Barbara County. 

Herman Story “Tomboy” Viognier 2011 

What a strange name for a wine label!?! Leave it to Paso Robles producer Herman Story, known for a whimsical, odd but creative branding strategy, with a broad portfolio of uniquely named labels such as Bolt Cutter, Casual Encounter, Milk & Honey and Nuts & Bolts, to release a label such as this. 

Proprietor, winemaker Russel From explains on each rear label the brand name inspiration - “Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales, and my grandfather ….”

The Herman Story website describes Winemaker/Producer …. “Before he was a winemaker, a self-proclaimed black belt, and an internationally renowned runway model, Russell always had a borderline-concerning obsession with great food and wine. After graduating from Cal Poly with a few winery internships (and a bunch of noise complaints) under his belt, he started Herman Story in 2001 with seven humble barrels of Syrah stashed in his employer's cellar.’

“What started as an homage to his grandfather grew into a lineup of the most boisterous, buckle-up-and-hang-on, Rhône-inspired wines on the Central Coast. Today, after 20+ years and a bunch more noise complaints, Russell hasn't lost a shred of his passion for wine, people, and perfectly seasoned ground beef. Off the clock, you'll find him whipping up salsa verde, floating the Salinas River, or trying to break the world record for longest distance pulling a Learjet 45 by beard.”

Russel applies his grandfather’s ‘teller to tales’ to his wines, with a story behind every label, for example:

Russel’s story behind the Nuts & Bolts label  …. “Single vineyard wines are sort of like kids on the Ivy League track; you just have to make sure that you don’t do anything that throws them off and you’ll see them succeed. Blends like Nuts & Bolts are a bit more like me, it takes some well timed advice, a bit of hand wringing and a lot of love to see them come into their own; but when they do they always take the limelight.”

The winemaker/producer’s tasting notes for his “On the Road Grenache” tell the story explaining the label name: “Driving up and down the Central Coast throughout harvest has it’s perks, sure I now know more places to find legit burritos than I ever thought possible, but aside from that I get to spend countless hours mulling over the best way to blend my Grenache lots.” 

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate describes Herman Story (winery and branding) - “Readers looking for super-concentrated, extroverted, exuberant, powerhouse wines from California's Central Coast need look no further than the Herman Story estate. For those who love the wild side of Rhone varietals pushed to the limit (but not over), these are highly recommended. Moreover, prices are exceptionally fair for this level of quality."

With it’s whimsical label, I’ve held this bottle in our cellar for over a decade, waiting for the right opportunity to open this label, taking the branding inspiration into account. I brought this bottle to Florida to perhaps open with Linda’s girlfriends during their visit last month, and finally, set an occasion with Linda and her sister, “farmer Ned Long’s daughters”, for tonight’s dinner. 

Russell’s Herman Story whimsical anecdotal story of this ‘Tomboy’ wine:

“I appreciate a sturdy woman, a lady who the wind isn’t gonna blow over. I also enjoy a woman with many layers; someone I need to take my time on to get to know properly. Once again, Tomboy floats my boat.” 

“You only know one person who can get bucked off her horse, break a few ribs, ride fifteen miles out of the hills, and show up in time to deliver a doozie of a closing argument. Brown sugar hair in a tight bun, cinnamon power suit, working the small-town jury box with candied peach logic and irrefutable grilled pineapple evidence, smooth as butter and spice. By the end, she’s got at least three in tears, and after the verdict comes out, she’s back in the saddle, because she’s not going to leave those cowboys shorthanded.”

This 2011 Tomboy is a blend of Rhône varietals - 83% Viognier and 17% Roussanne, sourced from the Larner, White Hawk, Denner & James Berry Vineyards in Santa Barbara County. 250 cases were produced. 

Our experience was summed up nearly perfectly by one reviewer who wrote - “Light gold color. Best Viognier I’ve ever had. Strong nectarine, honey, and buttered toast on the scent. Taste is tangy melon, followed by floral and earthy mineral notes, with a surprisingly spicy finish. So complicated.”

Russel describe an earlier vintage release of this label this way: “The 2009 vintage is a sturdy showing, indeed; a white wine that probably makes more sense to a red wine drinker than most red wines do. And multi-faceted is an understatement. This wine is so densely layered, it’s more likely to be recognized by MENSA than I ever am. It smells like crushed honeysuckle, wool shirts, lime zest, coconut, butterscotch, wood fire and pain perdue. It tastes like all of those things plus lychee, nectarine, white tea, thyme, orange marmalade and saltwater taffy. Actually, I stopped writing down what this wine tastes and smells like after an hour because my hand got tired. But mostly because I wanted to give it my full attention.”

Tonight, at fourteen years, the fill level was fine but the cork was dry and came apart upon opening using a traditional waiter’s cork screw. I delicately managed to extract the bottom remaining 1/4 of the cork. 

Deep golden colored, medium bodied, rich, concentrated, sharp and forward, zesty melon, lychee, pineapple and blood orange fruits, accented by a layer almost approaching butterscotch and buttery pain grille, with notes of coconut, spice, and hints of vanilla on the mineral laden tangy flavorful finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1528146

https://hermanstorywines.com/about-us/meet-russel/

https://hermanstorywines.com/

https://www.hendersonparkinn.com/

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin

Jayson Napa Valley Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin 

With visiting friends Eric, Cathy, Pat & Rodger, we dined at Captain Dave’s On The Gulf Seafood Restaurant in Destin, FL., a short walk from The Cove, our Destin vacation rental. 

Captain Dave’s On The Gulf is the oldest seafood restaurant in Destin, family owned and operated since 1968. It offers beach front views from the spacious high ceiling dining room overlooking the gulf. 

They feature the usual appetizers, soups, salads and sides. Their speciality is American seafood cuisine infused with a ‘contemporary Gulf Coast twist’. - the local fresh catch seafood dishes - Flounder, Grouper, Mahi Mahi, Snapper and Refish as well as shrimp, lobster and salmon as well as steaks and chicken dishes. 

“Captain Dave’s Faves” signature dishes are artfully prepared with imaginative preparations featuring their signature homemade sauces such as their Parmesan Italian Cream Sauce. Our veteran server provided prompt attentive gracious and friendly service. 

I enjoyed their Mahi Mahi with Parmesan Cream sauce last month and was eager to have it again, and, based on my raving about the entree, several of us ordered it as well. Everyone loved it, although, beware, the Parmesan crème sauce is rich and filling. 

I took from our cellar, BYOB, this Carneros Chardonnay for pairing with the fresh seafood dinners. With two attorneys at the table, it was whimsical and fitting that I selected a wine from an attorney turned wine producer. 

I wrote about this producer and label in detail in a blogpost back in 2023, Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Chardonnay with Grilled Salmon, excerpted here:

We have several bottles in this collection so I pulled this, the oldest vintage to consume as part of cellar management..  

Jayson Pahlmeyer was a successful trial attorney who started becoming hooked by the wine industry and slowly phased out his law practice in pursuit of developing his own wines. He partnered with John Caldwell, owner of a 55-acre site in south-east Napa Valley. Together, they began planting French clones of red Bordeaux varieties.

“All I wanted to do was to create my own ‘California Mouton’ – a rich, powerful Napa Valley Bordeaux blend, a wine that would drop wine lovers to their knees,” says Jayson Pahlmeyer.

He made several trips to France to find some of the highest quality Bordeaux varietal clones, seeking assistance over several years from viti-cultural professors at the University of Bordeaux who analyzed the soil samples, exposure, rainfall and temperature data from Napa. 

Jayson and his partner were able to acquire Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec vines and managed to smuggle their “suitcase clones” through Canada and then took them back to California where he planted his own vineyard.

“My closest advisors, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer told me ‘If you want to be a first-growth, you have to have your own vineyards,’” says Jayson Pahlmeyer. “I found this property in the eastern hills of Napa Valley that was owned by the Waters family - an incredible parcel with views to the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco skyline. John did the soil analysis, David Abreu studied the terrain, and speaking for all of them, Helen proclaimed it ‘paradisal’. It was rocky, desolate, low vigor, with good drainage. Perfect for growing Bordeaux varieties.

“I hired David Abreu to develop it, and Helen and Erin Green, Helen’s protégé and our longtime winemaker, selected the clones, which included those smuggled from Bordeaux that I had been using since my 1986 vintage.”

Planted in 1981, the French cuttings slowly adjusted. Pahlmeyer Wine released their first vintage in 1986 with the help of Randy Dunn, one of California’s foremost winemakers, the Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red was made and launched.

Helen Turley took over winemaking in 1993 and further improved the quality and consistency of Pahlmeyer wines. They started producing wine at the Napa Wine Co in 1994 soon after Napa Wine Co underwent a huge renovation to accommodate production from wineries who do not actually have their own physical winery at the time. 

Jayson’s daughter Cleo joined the team in 2008.

Today, the winemaker is Bibiana Gonzalez Rave. She received her oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and has worked at estates in Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Valley and other locations in addition to Napa Valley. She was named Winemaker of the Year for 2015 by the San Francisco Chronicle.

Jason Pahlmeyer understood that making wines with exceptional concentration, complexity, and ageability required venturing to extremes. That’s what drew him to the rugged parcel of vines on the ridgeline of Atlas Peak that would become his iconic estate vineyard. 

 

The Pahlmeyer estate vineyards include Water’s Ranch, Stagecoach, and Antica parcels, that all sit above 1,400 feet elevation where they benefit from three more hours of sunshine per day compared to lower altitudes that are often cloaked in morning fog. This additional sunlight ensures the berries achieve a deep, rich color and complex flavor compounds. 

 

Location, map and technical information for Pahlmeyer Estate Vineyard.

We love Pahlmeyer wines and have served special large format bottles of our son's birthyear vintage bottles at his wedding celebration and birthday dinners as posted in these pages -  

Pahlmeyer Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Red Blend 1990, and,

Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Pahlmeyer "Jayson" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

Over the years, the portfolio grew to also include the "Jayson" brand that includes several reds, and a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines that sourced from lower elevation vineyard sites including some on the valley floor and in the Carneros region at the lower end of Napa Valley near San Pablo Bay. 

With daytime temperatures averaging 5-10 F cooler, our mountain vines respire less acidity to produce energy; the acidity retained in the grapes results in greater freshness and balance in the wines. Cooler temperatures also prolong the growing season, allowing the clusters to hang longer on the vine and achieve optimal flavor development. The Pahlmeyer Rancho Chimiles parcel, while slightly lower in elevation, sits close to the San Pablo Bay and enjoys cooling afternoon breezes that moderate temperature.

Tonight this big bold rich Jayson Chardonnay was ideal with our grilled mahi mahi and grouper dinners. 

Ironically, the week of that earlier blogpost, Pahlmeyer Twitter ('X') site features their Chardonnay harvest. 

 

This wine is a marriage of three distinctive Napa Valley regions: bright, elegant Carneros hillside; and rich, ripe St. Helena valley floor; with intense mountain fruit at its core. 

This was vinted by Winemaker Bibiana González Rave and blended by Jennifer Williams

Winemaker Notes - “This wine has brilliant golden straw color and aromas of warm spice, tangerine, and sweet orange; intriguing tropical floral notes carry over onto the palate. Flavors of ripe pear, apricot, and mango peel are accented by warm spice and rich caramel, for a wine that is both weighty and fresh.’

“The grapes were hand-sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After settling overnight, the juice was fermented in barrel, including 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in 35% new French oak barrels for eleven months.”

At eight years of age, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all ideal. This was likely at the end of its prime drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather likely to start to diminish going forward, so it was time to drink. 

 

Similar to earlier tasting notes for this label, this was deep golden colored, medium full bodied, rich full bold apple and tropical and stone fruit flavors with hints of pineapple with a rich layer of vanilla and caramel/butterscotch with accents of oak, grapefruit and minerality on a roasted nut finish acidic finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3105647

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/vintage/2017-jayson-chardonnay/

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/

https://twitter.com/Pahlmeyer

https://www.captdavesonthegulf.com/

BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines

 BBQ Ribs with Big Red Wines 

Visiting The Cove, our Destin, FL, vacation rental with friends, and in-laws, all from Indiana, Linda prepared BBQ ribs with corn on the cob and baked potatoes, and salad. 

To accompany the dinner, I opened two wine from Indiana producers, one from a winery and vineyard we all pass often on the highway, and another, from near our Alma Matre Indiana University down in Bloomington.

I’ve written about Carpenter Creek Cellars and their Indiana Produced Wines in these pages in this earlier blogpost. 

 

I also opened this 50 year anniversary iconic Napa Cab, to commemorate all of our Fiftieth’s, as we were in each other’s weddings, a long while ago, but this was the first time we’d all been together since our anniversaries. 

We served this wine as part of our celebration wine flight during our Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN, featured in these pages in this blogpost, and several other vintage releases for such applicable anniversaries over the years. 

Eric picked up and brought two hearty big red wines for the occasion - each a perfect complement to the BBQ. 

 

 

I opened and served this Aussie Cab/Shiraz blend first, thinking it would be bigger and more complex than the Prisoner, and was wrong, as they turned out to have the opposite relative profiles from what I expected. Fun with Mollydooker, as Eric, as well as Linda are Mollydookers - (Australian for left handed person (s)). We’ve written about Mollydooker and our fun with their portfolio of wines often these pages …  

Finally, we closed with this unique Indiana Red Dessert wine. Too sweet for most, but inviting with Tiramius dessert, and the salad! 

Great food, fun, fellowship, celebrating, reminiscing…. Fun with wine! 

Hazy Blur Shiraz with Pizza

Hazy Blur South Australia Shiraz with Pizza

After a day of travel returning home from our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we ordered in Pizza from our favorite neighborhood pizzeria. We pulled from the cellar and opened a vintage aged big Aussie Shiraz as a ‘pizza wine’ accompaniment. 

HazyBlur Adelaide Plains South Australia Shiraz 2004

We’ve had a long history of exploration of the broad range of labels of this producer’s South Australia Shiraz including three times of this particular label. Their style is one we enjoy with big, full, round, fruit forward and concentrated fruits. 

I’ve featured this producer in more detail in earlier posts, that they derive their whimsical name from the mirage visual effects from the heat rising off the vineyards. 

Our records show we’ve tasted and posted notes of this particular label three times, all seventeen years ago, prior to or in the earliest days of this blogpost on this platform - December 23, 2008, January 7, 2008, April 4, 2008

Earlier posts of tasting notes of this label -

In December of 2009, I wrote - Dense and spicy, with a rich core of blueberry, plum and cherry fruit that rises through a layer of fine tannins to take over the finish. 91 Points

(2,270 Cellertracker views)

A year earlier in December of 2008 - I wrote: Fruit filled and forward - full flavored loganberry, cherry, graphite mineral core, then a subtle, full, rich raspberry. 89 Points

(2,881 CellarTracker views) 

Earlier that year in April of 2008 - I wrote: The Hazy Blur is fruit filled and forward with a full flavored loganberry, cherry, graphite mineral core, and a subtle, full, rich raspberry. 89 Points

Our records show numerous notations from our long history of exploration with the range of labels of South Austrailian Shiraz’ from this producer.

Hazyblur South Australia Kangaroo Island Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - December 4, 2010
HazyBlur Baroota Shiraz 2004 - May 18, 2006, December 31, 2007, December 31, 2009
HazyBlur Baroota Shiraz 2003 - Oct 16, 2006
HazyBlur Adelaide Plains South Australia Shiraz 2004 - December 23, 2008, January 7, 2008, April 4, 2008
HazyBlur Adelaide Plains South Australia Shiraz 2003 - April 20, 2005
HazyBlur Adelaide Plains South Australia Shiraz 2001 - January 20, 2009
HazyBlur South Australia Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2006 - July 17, 2010
HazyBlur South Australia Kangaroo Island Shiraz 2004 - February 14, 2007, December 31, 2009
HazyBlur McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004 - December 31, 2009

We still hold a half dozen labels from this producer, and, tonight, we opened the oldest vintage in our cellar as part of cellar inventory management, one from the 2004 vintage release.

HazyBlur Adelaide Plains South Australia Shiraz 2004 

At 20 years, the label, foil, and most importantly the fill level and cork, were still appropriate - the cork showing some signs of slight seepage, but still moist, soft and intact (as shown).

Tonight’s tasting was consistent with earlier notes. 

Dense and spicy, with a rich core of blueberry, plum and cherry fruit that rises through a layer of fine tannins to take over the finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=150188

Sunset dining at Beachwalk Cafe

Sunset small bites dining at Beachwalk Cafe

Our last night in Destin, FL, we walked down the beach to Beachwalk Cafe to watch the sunset on the beach with the Destin towers in the background beyond Henderson Beach State Park, one of our favorite sunset views on the Emerald Coast. 

We’ve featured Henderson Beach Resort Beachwalk Cafe numerous times in these pages, most recently for our Anniversary Dinner last month as featured in this blogpost - Hope Cuvée at Beachwalk Cafe, Destin.

We had a delightful idealic leisurely dinner on the deck overlooking the beach and the park and enjoyed small bites selections from the menu. 

Linda ordered the Crab Cakes, arguably the best crab cake preparation in the area, while I ordered the Grilled Scallops with Risoto. 

Beachwalk Cafe signature Crab Cakes - Seared Blue Crab Cakes with Mixed Greens, Remoulade Sauce

We ordered from the wines list WBTG = Wine By The Glass selections a Sparkling white wine from Spanish producer Bodegas Pinord.

Bodegas Pinord Dibon NV Brut Reserve Cava, Catalonia, Sparkling Wine 

This is from Bodegas Pinord, whose name means "Pine from the North", 

The Tetas family have over a hundred years of winemaking experience combining traditional methods inherited from their ancestors and state-of-the-art technology. 

They own 60 hectares of vineyards in the Penedès region of north-eastern Spain near Catalonia, and also buy grapes from their cousins. 

During the last few years, they have also started to make wines in other appellations of Spain.

This entry level release is a blend of local varietal grapes, 60% Xarello, 30% Macabeo, and 10% Parellada. It is produced in the ‘Methode Traditionelle’,  aged for 15 months on its lees.

Winemaker notes - Has aromas of golden delicious apples and pears with pleasant floral notes. Crisp and light-bodied on the palate, the slightly sweet dried fruit flavors are accompanied by a mild minerality on the palate.

Wine Enthusiast rated this 88 points. 

Light straw colored, light bodied, crisp bright acidity, rich complex palate of apple and pear with hints of citrus and grapefruit flavors with notes of bread and mild minerality on the lingering finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4304022

https://www.hendersonparkinn.com/dine/beachwalk-cafe/

Blue Eye’d Boy with Flank Steak

Blue Eye’d Boy Shiraz with Grilled Flank Steak

Our last night hosting Linda’s sororiety sister Pat at our Destin (FL) vacation rental home, we grilled flank steak and served with baked potatoes and haricot verts. 

Pat picked up one of our shared favorite wines at Chan’s Wine World, Destin, for the occasion, for pairing with the grilled beefsteak.

Mollydooker Blue Eye’d Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2022 

This is one of our favorite big bold Aussie Shiraz’s and whimsically shares the Blue Eye’d Boy moniker designation between the producer and us with our son Alec, hence this being one of our family signature wines we keep and have fun commemorating our son.

This is one of several labels from this prolific producer that we collect. Producer Mollydooker offer a brand and portfolio of whimsical labels, each featuring a cartoonish character on the label. Even the brand name, Mollydooker, which is Australian lingo for a left-handed person, is a comical play on words, named for the two left handed owner/producers/founders Sarah and Sparky Marquis. I chronicled the Mollydooker brand and their portfolio of wines in this earlier blogpost. 

I wrote about Mollydooker and the Blue Eye’d Boy label in more detail last year in the blogpost - Blue Eye’d Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2020. 

Here’s a compendium of various posts in these pages about the fun we have with this label and the rest of the Mollydooker portfolio of wines. Here is a selection of several previous posts on the subject:

September 10, 2022 - Blue Eye'd Boy & Brunier Racines for BBQ Rib Dinner 

March 11, 2022 - Blue Eye'd Boy and CDP for Italian Beef Dinner

May 5, 2012 - Graduation celebration wine tasting flight

February 7, 2014 - Mollydooker 'Carnival of Love' Shiraz 2011

July 4, 2023 - Lede To Kalon and Greywacke showcase 4th of July Celebration

February 3, 2022 - Mollydooker "Scooter" Merlot

We hold more than a half dozen vintages of this label and this is the newest, latest release which we're trying here for the first time, since we customarily will open the oldest vintage in our cellar as part of cellar inventory management. 

The Blue Eyed Boy on the label is Luke, son of producer winemaker Sarah Marquis, shown stomping grapes as a kid. Today Luke heads up the Mollydooker Sales Team.

Winemaker tasting notes - “The 2022 Blue Eyed Boy is impressively deep in colour, displaying vibrant dark purple hues. Its aromatic profile is both intricate and inviting, with scents of blueberry, fresh plum, and subtle hints of mocha cream bursting from the glass. This wine is a balance of strength and finesse, delivering layers of lush, fresh berries and a touch of aniseed spice, culminating in a final note of creamy chocolate. With generous and dynamic layers, the wine allows the gentle tannins to craft a smooth and enduring finish, ensuring a truly memorable experience.’ 

The grapes for this release were sourced from the Coppermine Road, Gateway, Long Gully Road and Mollydooker Home vineyards in McLaren Vale, and Joppich vineyard in Langhorne Creek. 

This wine was barrel fermented and matured in 100% American oak, using 54% new and 46% one year old barrels. 

Mollydooker have developed a metric they call “The Marquis Fruit Weight” that they use to measure the quality of their wines. The Fruit Weight is the percentage of your palate (from the tip to the very back of your tongue) that’s covered by the velvety sensation of fruit that occurs when a wine’s tannins, alcohol, and acid are all perfectly balanced.

During the growing season through vinification, they continuously assess & record Fruit Weight throughout the entire growing & winemaking process. In the vineyard, they’re looking for the perfect intersection of the increasing flavour curve and the decreasing acidity curve.

During the growing season, as the grapes mature on the vine, acidity begins to drop and flavour and sugars dramatically increase. In a span of about 4 weeks, they reach the ‘Sweet Spot’ that they’re seeking for each target wine. When the grapes reach that level, they are harvested.

The Actual Fruit Weight for 2022 Blue Eyed Boy is 79%, within the designated target range for the required Marquis Fruit Weight™ for the Family Series which is 75% – 85%. 

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Spectator.

Dark deep inky purple colored, full bodied, almost a bit angular and obtuse, rich concentrated forward super ripe sweet blueberry black raspberry and plum fruits with notes of mocha chocolate, coffee, anise and spice with moderate tannins on the smooth lingering finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5065016

https://mollydookerwines.com.au/

https://twitter.com/MollydookerWine

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Nickel & Nickle Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin

Nickel & Nickle Chardonnay BYOB at Captain Dave’s Destin (FL) Seafood Dinner

Visiting The Cove, our Destin (FL) vacation rental, we dined at Captain Dave’s On The Gulf restaurant, a local institution on the Emerald Coast, and a convenient short walk away. 

Captain Dave’s On The Gulf is the oldest seafood restaurant in Destin, family owned and operated since 1968. It offers beach front views from the spacious high ceiling dining room overlooking the gulf. 

They feature the usual appetizers, soups, salads and sides. Their speciality is American seafood cuisine infused with a ‘contemporary Gulf Coast twist’. - the local fresh catch seafood dishes - Flounder, Grouper, Mahi Mahi, Snapper and Refish as well as shrimp, lobster and salmon as well as steaks and chicken dishes. 

“Captain Dave’s Faves” signature dishes are artfully prepared with imaginative preparations featuring their signature homemade sauces such as their Parmesan Italian Cream Sauce. Our server, Dee, provided prompt attentive gracious and friendly service. 

Linda ordered from the starter menu the Coconut Shrimp as her entree.

Coconut Shrimp - Lightly sautéed and dusted with coconut with Dave’s homemade orange marmalade dipping sauce 

Pat R and I both ordered one of Dave’s Faves signature dishes - the Mahi Parmesan. 

Mahi Parmesan - Mahi Mahi broiled in Captain Dave’s homemade Parmesan Italian Cream sauce topped with Parmesan cheese - a plate size filet of Mahi basking in an incredibly delicious Parmesan butter cream sauce with shallots and scallions.

All entrees are served hush puppies, salad and choice of sides. 

Linda raved about the Coconut Shrimp and Pat and I both loved the Mahi Parmesan. 

The wine list is extremely limited with few selections or red and whites, featuring one crowd pleaser Jordan Chardonnay and two ultra-premium reds, Quintessa and Opus One Napa Cabernets. Thankfully, they accommodate BYOB service with aptly handled our Napa Chardonnay from our home eellar. 

https://www.captdavesonthegulf.com/

Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Carneros Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2018

We brought from our home cellar, this 2018 release, the last bottle of the oldest vintage of our vertical holdings of several vintages of this label, as part of proper cellar inventory management.

This is from Nickel & Nickel, a subsidiary of the legendary ultra-premium producer Far Niente Winery and Vineyards. If you've visited Napa Valley, you passed their winery estate on St Helena Highway 29 in Oakville as you enter Napa Valley from the south. 

Nickel & Nickel was established by the partners of Far Niente in 1997 focused on producing single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from the appellation's most significant growing regions. Dedicated exclusively to producing 100 percent varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard, they expanded their portfolio to also produce single-vineyard Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah wines.

Nickel & Nickel focus on 100% varietal, single-vineyard designated wines, sourced from as many as seventeen different vineyards, primarily in Napa Valley, but now extended to include some sites in the Sonoma County Russian River Valley appellation. 

Their approach emphasizes selection of the very best vineyard locations and unique soil compositions required to make superior single-vineyard wines. Each Nickel & Nickel wine is a celebration of 'place' or terroir. It's amazing how such can reveal how vineyards only miles apart, but of the same grape varietal, yield wines of unique character and distinction.

This label release is 100% Chardonnay from the Truchard Vineyard located in the heart of Carneros AVA, prized for its rolling hills, sun exposure, and cool, breezy conditions that allow long, even ripening. Nickel & Nickel wines are produced from 14 select acres of this 270-acre vineyard, planted in 2007.

The Carneros region straddles the southernmost portions at the confluence of the Sonoma and Napa valleys, lying just north of the San Pablo Bay (an offshoot of the San Francisco Bay). There, southwestern exposure to the bay winds and fog, created when warm inland air meets cool sea air, keep temperatures relatively low, making this California wine region perfect for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

The growing season tends to be long in this cooler area, allowing for fully mature fruit at harvest. 

The vineyard is predominately a neutral, gravelly loam from the Felton soil series, with volcanic ash and rock which are well-drained soils formed from weathered sandstone and shale. 

Indeed many of our favorite and many memorable wines are from Carneros vineyards from some of the most heralded producers. 

Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Carneros Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2018

 

This wine shows the classic style of Carneros Chardonnay."Winemaker Notes - The 2018 Truchard Chardonnay is a beautiful marriage of youthful vibrance and refined elegance. Gorgeous aromas of tropical fruits, citrus and wet stone leap from the glass with the very first swirl.’ 

“The same tropical and citrus notes follow on the palate, with pear, peach blossoms, and a touch of spice to round out the flavor profile. This wine is weighty, with an oily-textured component that is inherent to the vineyard. A harmonious mix of acidity and volume, this wine is full and fresh.”

This label was rated 92 points by Wilfred Wong of Wine.com.

Pale golden straw colored, medium bodied, not as big or full as some other releases of this label (2022), bright vibrant tart lemon citrus, pear and apple notes with sprites of mineral, with hints of buttery toasted oak on a lingering bright acidic finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3397173

https://nickelandnickel.farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/NickelandNickel

https://www.captdavesonthegulf.com/

Note - Captain Dave’s site photos courtesy the restaurant. 

End of summer neighborhood social - small plates and assorted wines

End of summer neighborhood social boasts small plates and medley of assorted wines … 

Summer officially ended in the afternoon.on Tuesday September 22.  Visiting our Destin (FL) vacation home, we hosted a casual informal end-of-summer neighborhood social Monday evening. 

Linda prepared small plates … grilled steak on buttered toast points, grilled shrimp with pineapple, fresh fruit plate, fresh veggie plate, artisan cheeses with assortment of biscuits and crackers, two types of stuffed olives, fresh baked cookies and brownies and more  …..

In addition to the usual beer, spritzers and non-alcoholic beverages, I served a selection of wines - Champagne, Rose’, Whites and Reds.

We started with an authentic Champagne. Of course only wine produced in the Champagne region of France can be so labeled. All others are ‘sparkling wines’.

NV Robert de Pampignac Brut Champagne

This bottle is from the Champagne house of Robert de Pampignac that dates back to 1869 in the heart of Champagne. The brand Robert de Pampignac is produced by the family owned G.H. Martel Group, that originated in the town of Epernay at the bottom of the region, and today operates out of a historic mansion in the town of Reims, the commercial Centre of Champagne at the north of the region on the Marne River. 

The G.H. Martel Group is one of the last family-owned Champagne businesses of its size, with roots in the region dating back to 1869. The original founding Champagne House of Henry-Léopold Tabourin was operated by Auguste Devaux who studied Champagne oenology and founded in 1894, Veuve A. Devaux champagne. With his son and their children, they developed the G.H. Martel & Cie brand. G. H. Martel was taken over by Ernest Émile Rapeneau and his family in 1979 after the the death of André Tabourin. Today, the fourth generation carry on the tradition of the company. 

In addition to a network of winegrowers in the Champagne area to produce their wines through long term grower supplier agreements, the Rapeneau family have been growing vines for 4 generations on their 250 acres of vineyards with their grapes dedicated to G.H Martel champagnes. 

The grapes come mainly from the Petite Montagne de Reims with plots spread across the valley in Grauves, Cramant, Chouilly, Mancy, and Ogers, and du Sézannais in Broyes and Sezanne.

We toured the region starting in Reims and ending up in Epernay back in 2006.  

Martel market a broad portfolio of a dozen labels marketed under the G.H. Martel brand and a few select premiere labels and a few other labels such as this one. 

This wine is a Brut style, meaning it is dry. It is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes. This is a NV - Non-vintage specific blend meaning it contains fruit from multiple vintages, which is common of the majority of Champagnes. Specific vintage dated releases are only produced in vintage designated years from the finest select grapes of that vintage.  

The actual grape composition is 50% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Meunier

Producer notes - Light gold with noticeable salmon hue, this Pinot-dominant cuvee sings with an easy-going personality that is charming and without excess. With flavors of yellow apple, lemon peel, yellow plum puree, strawberry shortcake, freeze-dried pear, baked bread, cherry essence and chalk - this wine finishes nicely clean.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3874749

https://champagnemartel.com/en/homepage

Gérard Bertrand Languedoc Hampton Water Rose’ Blend 2023 

Following our enjoyment of Gérard Bertrand Cote des Roses Languedoc Rose’ last month, featured in these pages in this blogpost - Rose Rose’ with grilled shrimp and scallops, I picked up another Gérard Bertrand Languedoc Rose’ label, this classic Southern Rhône blend Rose’.

This is from the Languedoc region in the Southern Rhône river valley. We drove through the region and Côtes de Provence along the Cote d’ Azur during our Four days in Provence - Aix - Meyrargues trip in 2019. The area is featured in a separate blogpost about that trip - Red Wine with Chili? Bandol. 

Languedoc lies along the Mediterranean coast to the west of Marseille, and Provence to the east. 

We gained an appreciation for Rhône valley varietals based Rose’ at one the producers we visited that trip and wrote about it in this post - La Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Les Cassagnes Rose. We featured  A visit to Château La Nerthe in our Chateauneuf du Pape region visit in 2019 in this blogpost. 

Winemaker Bertrand has amassed an empire of 17 wine estates, totaling 2,200 acres of vineyards (following his initial career as a professional rugby player!). His wines, which include the Cote des Roses we enjoyed, which has become on of the top-selling French brands. 

It was Bertrand’s grandmother that had the vision to plant the first family plot of vines, Carignan, in 1920. His father followed that vision producing quality wines in the Languedoc back in the 1960s and 70s, long before the region had a reputation for fine wine.

This whimsical Hampton Water Rosé is crafted by Bertrand as part of project of creator Jesse Bongiovi, son of global rock icon Jon Bon Jovi, who tapped renowned winemaker Bertrand to produce this label.

Jesse and his dad, Jon Bon Jovi, shared a vision to disrupt the wine category with a brand that is unlike all others. The father-son duo created the Hampton Water Wine brand concept, bringing on famed French winemaker, Gérard Bertrand. Launching in 2018 with Hampton Water Rosé, the brand quickly rose above the ranks to be more than just another celebrity brand. 

Leveraging incredibly engaged social media presence of nearly 600,000 followers, Hampton Water gained popularity by taking a modern digital approach in an often-traditional category. The brand has achieved immense success through creating loyal brand advocates, surpassing their category, and delivering double-digit volume growth year over year.

This is a blend of classic Southern Rhône varietals - Grenache (60%), Mourvèdre (moo-VED-rah), (15%), Cinsault (sin-SOH)(15%), and Syrah (10%).

Winemaker Notes - The wine is fresh and lively, with soft notes of strawberry, and citrus; a beautiful, long finish is a result of its careful and meticulous aging in new French Oak barrels.

The Bon Jovi family business wine project earned four years of 90-point ratings from Wine Spectator, 91 points from Wine Enthusiast and Decanter, and was recognized as an Impact Hot Prospect brand two years in a row. This label release was rated 91 points by Decanter.

Like the Roses Rose’ we drank last month, with the bottle bottom formed in the shape of a rose petal, this packaging incorporated a sleek bottle design with a strawberry in the bottom, and a glass capsule (as opposed to a cork) that requires no bottle opener.

This was a big hit with our group tonight, served from a magnum. 

Pink rose colored, light medium bodied, notes of red strawberry peach and  fruits with accents of citrus, floral and minerality, and hints of its French oak barrel aging on a pleasant crisp long-lasting finish,

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4981036

https://hamptonwaterwine.com/pages/rose

JC Wickens Swerwer Chenin Blanc 2018 

I admit I forgot I tasted and wrote about this wine in an earlier blogpost back in 2021, 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/03/swerwer-swartland-chenin-blanc-2018.html, which I replay here. 

JC (Jasper) Wickens Swerwer Swartland Chenin Blanc 2018

This South African Chenin Blanc was delightful for casual social sipping that was enjoyed immensely. It is from the Swartland appellation, 'Designation of origin' from the Western Cape, Coastal Region of South Africa. 

This is produced by winemaker Jasper Wickens who was previously the assistant winemaker at Badenhorst Family Wines He has built up a following since his first releases in 2012 with his highly popular ‘Swartland’ wines. 

I discovered and gained an appreciation for the long history of, and the broad selection of South African wines during my trip there in 2019. 

Jasper Wickens started out working at Zevenwacht Wine Estate where he learned conventional wine making practices over a two year period. He went on to graduate from Stellenbosch University with a Bachelor's Degree in Viticulture and Oenology. Jasper spent some time in Napa Valley where he was exposed to cutting edge technology and state of the art equipment.

Returning to South Africa he wrote, “Adi Badenhorst brought me down to earth, really fast and hard. Coming to the Swartland changed everything I thought I knew about the wine world. Immediately I was working in the most primitive of ways, paying with blood and sweat, to learn that good wine doesn't come without getting your hands dirty. Tasting and developing a feel for the vineyards, the grapes and what they would become was much more important.”Suddenly, Jasper found himself in a completely different environment of old bush vines, natural whole bunch fermentations, low sulphur levels and a hands-off approach. This ‘Swartland norm’ was very far from the clinically sterile approach of the cellars he had worked in before. His time immersed in the ‘primitive’ ways passed quickly resulting in an almost ten year working relationship at AA Badenhorst Family Wines.

During his time at Badenhorst, he was allowed the freedom to travel and explore new cultures of winemaking. He spent time at the ancient, steep sloped slate vineyards of Priorat, Spain, working alongside Eben Sadie at Terroir-al-Limit, using traditional winemaking techniques, plowing with mules and practicing biodynamic farming for the first time. Crafting top wines from old vine Grenache and Carignan, Jasper returned to Priorat yearly between 2009 and 2011.

During the European harvests of 2011 and 2012  Jasper worked with Tom Lubbe at Matassa in Roussilon, France where he explored and experimented with completely naturally made wines farming organically or even bio-dynamically.

Moving with the seasons, working two harvest a year: a South African Swartland harvest followed by an European Priorat and Roussilon harvest, his ‘Swerwer’ project was born. “Swerwer” is a name which describes the lives of many young winemakers who chase the vintages across the globe traversing between the opposing seasons of the Northern and Southern hemispheres. 

The bulk of Swerwer grapes came from Waterval farm where a number of new vineyards were planted especially for Jasper’s growing production. Grenache Noir, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca vineyards were planted with a particular vision for Swerwer. There he got the opportunity to work with old vine Chenin Blanc and be part of the planting of new vineyards.

Waterval is one of the oldest farms in the area of Pardeberg dating back to the late 18th Century farming fruit orchards, vegetables and livestock. Over time and with the rise and formation of Swartland Co-op in the late 1940’s, attention turned to planting grapes. 

The Paardeberg ('horse mountain') divides the Paarl and Swartland wine regions, on the Western Cape coastal region, north of Capetown. The climate has cold winters with an average rainfall of 400-600 mm and hot summer, typically very hot during the day, with cooler temperatures at night.

Paardeberg has some of the highest vineyards above sea level in the Swartland region rising to 700 m. Vines are planted on the slopes of the Paardeberg in relatively deep soil consisting of decomposed sandstone, granite and some clay, while glenrosa-scali-type soil is found on the lower northeastern slopes.

Waterval has been in the Schreiber family since 1947 managed by father and son team, Cyril and Barry. After graduating from Elsenburg, third generation Franziska joined her father Barry and gradually took the ‘reins’, combining old school with a fresh outlook and modern techniques. 

In 2016 Jasper and Franziska Waterfal tied the knot and the proprietorship partnership was formed, Jasper as winemaker and Franziska as viticulturist, they set out to produce estate wines from vines dating back to the 1960s. The old cellar on Waterval farm was renovated and equipped with the help of Adi. The first grapes in 50 years were received in January 2019, the same year James Barry was born to be the 4th generation on Waterval.

JC (Jasper) Wickens Swerwer Swartland Chenin Blanc 2018

Winemaker note for this label in 2019, "A high quality, focused Chenin Blanc. An invite of white and yellow stone fruit and herbal notes to a leaner palate, softly textured with peach, citrus, quince and a slightly savoury touch. A zesty acid zip leaves flavours to evolve and broaden with a longer finish. It is a complex and well-balanced wine, to be enjoyed fresh with food, although it can benefit with ageing to become quite complex and special."

Straw colored, light bodied, bright and vibrant, expressive crisp acidity with citrus, tropical and stone fruit and hints of peach and lime on a zesty finish.

RM 89 points vs 88 points from earlier review. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3401223

https://www.swerwerwines.com/

Stolpman Ballard Canyon, Santa Barbara County Rousanne 2019 

Following the Languedoc Rose’ red blend of Southern Rhône varietals, I opened another Rhône varietal wine comprised of the Roussanne (roo-SAN) wine grape. I wrote about this wine in an earlier blogpost a year ago last week - Stolpman Roussanne Rhône Varietal w/ vodka cream pasta, excerpted here. 

This unique Southern Rhône Rousanne varietal wine was a wonderful and fun discovery to share with the group and was well received and enjoyed. 

This is from Ballard Canyon which sits in the greater Santa Ynez Valley AVA which covers a thirty mile east-west corridor, running east from the town of Lompoc to Los Olivos and Santa Ynez on the east. It covers 77,000 acres of winegrapes with more than 60 different wine varieties. The cooler western region is notable for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Burgundian varietals, while the warmer, drier eastern region produces Rhône varietal wines (such as this).  

We visited the Santa Ynez Valley during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience back in 2022 and discovered the plethora of Rhone varietal based wines including many Syrah, one of our regular favorites.

Over the years the sub-appellations evolved and were granted AVA (American Viticultural Area) status with Santa Rita Hills to the west and Happy Canyon to the east. In the center is Ballard Canyon which was recognized as a unique winegrowing area and granted its own AVA in 2013.

Ballard Canyon became Santa Barbara County’s fifth official American viticultural area (AVA) joiningthe existing AVAs of the region including Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara, Santa Maria Valley and the broader Santa Barbara County.

Ballard Canyon, covers just 7,700 acres, or only 10% of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, and has a unique north-south orientation of the canyon provides a unique weather pattern of wind, fog, and maritime influence, giving it its own sense of a specific place or with its soil and elevation, terroir.

Ballard Canyon has a history of viticulture back to the earlier 1970’s but grew and gained recognition in an expansion of planting boom in the 90’s, with new grower producers such as Stolpman and Beckmen, Harrison, Larner, and Saarloos families planted vineyards, followed by Jonata and Tierra Alta.

While land to the west became increasingly devoted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with the publication of the STA Rita Hills AVA, Ballard Canyon vineyards focused on Rhône varietals and primarily Syrah. 

Ballard Canyon became Santa Barbara County’s fifth official American viticultural area (AVA) joiningthe existing AVAs of the region including Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara, Santa Maria Valley and the broader Santa Barbara County.

Ballard Canyon, encompassing 7,800, is the second AVA in the Santa Ynez Valley along with Sta. Rita Hills. The region is an integral part of the diversity within the Central Coast and Santa Barbara County designations. After experimenting with many different varietals, the growers and producers of Ballard Canyon settled on Syrah as the best-suited varietal throughout Ballard Canyon. Over half of the AVA’s planted acreage is Syrah and an additional 30% of acres are planted to other Rhone varietals including Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne.

Of the total 458 acres planted to red wine grapes. Rhone Varietals predominate with 76%, followed by Bordeaux: 14%, Italian: 8%, and other California ‘Heritage’ 2%. 

Syrah is the predominant red varietal with 274 Acres followed by another Rhône varietals mostly Grenache. Other plants include smaller amounts of Bordeaux grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, as well as small amounts of Italian varietals Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. 

Of the white wine grapes planted Rhone Varietals such as Roussanne predominate with 57%, followed by Bordeaux  (40%), primarily Sauvignon Blanc, and others lead by Viognier.

Stolpman Santa Barbara County Ballard Canyon Estate Bottled Roussanne 2019

This unique California Rhône white is produced and marketing directly as an estate wine sourced from their own vineyard under their own branding. Grapes from the vineyard are also produced separately under branding of a personal project of winemaker Jeremy Weintraub, whose day job is  since 2013 is overseeing Adelaida Cellars, a prominent estate in Paso Robles.  

Jeremy’s winemaking education includes earning a Master’s in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and, interning throughout the world’s best wine regions. Before his work with Adelaida, Jeremy was the winemaker at Seavey, a somewhat under-rated Cabernet producer in Napa Valley. Previously, Jeremy traveled the world, working harvests in Tuscany, Central Otago, Martinborough, and Long Island. 

Weintraub produces a small portfolio of limited production wines with fruit sourced from some of California's most renowned sites including a 100% Roussanne varietal is from the Stolpman Vineyard in Ballard Canyon in Santa Barbara County. 

This is the Stolpman branding crafted by family owned and operated Stolpman Vineyards sourced from their estate of 220-acres planted to 152 acres of south-facing grapes, an organic vegetable garden, and 5 acres of olives. This Roussanne Rhône varietal comprises 15.3 acres of the total plantings.

The Stolpman estate was established 20 years ago by Founding Partner, Tom Stolpman, when he discovered what we believe to be one of the greatest viticultural sites on earth, hidden in the hills of California’s Central Coast, on a rare Limestone outcropping & unobstructed from the Pacific Ocean wind, this unique land is naturally suited to grow Syrah and Roussanne grapes. 

The Stolpman family say they are blessed to farm wine grapes from their Ballard Canyon estate due to what they cite are five distinguishing characteristics that set their vineyard apart, even from other Ballard Canyon sites: 

“White Rock - Active, youthful 2 million year-old Limestone provides balancing acidity to all of our wines while the thin layer of dense clay topsoil above allows retention of moisture. Because of this one-two combo, we can withhold irrigation from the roots, forcing them to dig deep into the white rock and absorb all that terroir!’ The limestone that runs deep and lends acidity to the berries with clay-rich topsoil that retains moisture efficiently. 

“Tunnel of Love - Daily mistrals originate from the cold Arctic flow of Pacific Ocean pushing through our fully-exposed hillsides. The Mojave far to our east sucks up the cold air as its desert heat rises – the vacuum creates a perennial wind tunnel through Ballard Canyon rivaling the Northern Rhone in force and relentlessness. Our hearty vines continue to photosynthesize in the wind but the fluttering leaves don’t suck for water. Without dilution, flavor concentration intensifies. The wind also knocks down fungal pressure, giving the winery team pristinely clean fruit.’

“Nightly Chill - Unsheltered from the Pacific, as soon as night falls, temperatures drop an average of 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season. Not only does the cold nightly rejuvenation help hold acidity through our long growing season, but we also nocturnally harvest to lock in the taut freshness from the crisp conditions. The diurnal shift pendulum swings vastly, with drops of up to 40 degrees between daytime and nighttime. Chilly temperatures at night allow the grapes to maintain the hard-earned acidity imparted by the limestone soils.’

“Rain - For better or worse, it seldom rains during the growing season. Combined with our dedication to dry farming - concentrated, undiluted grapes result. We only pray for healthy winter rains during dormancy so the vines wake up sensing enough moisture to get through the summer. The vines can be dry-farmed due to the clay, which during the dry summer season, results in vines that struggle to dig deep for the water table and produce concentrated fruit.”

They say the largest impact of the annual dry stretch is the continuation of legacy native root-stock that has thus far survived the scourge of  the root-louse Phyllloxera, which doesn’t like to be parched. They have managed so far to maintain their own-rooting vulnerable Vinifera rather than grafting onto root-stock. Today, 60% of the vines at Stolpman are own-rooted.

Finally, “Tropical Tan - Located at 34.6 degrees latitude, our equatorial solar rays help to ripen the grapes through the long, cool growing season. The sunlight stays strong, seeing us through our Autumn harvest, good ‘ol California sunshine ripens the grapes to their “fullest potential” We rely on it to paint our Roussanne a “Rouss” shade of gold.”

Roussanne can get a bad rap as a varietal for producing singular waxy and weighted wines, hence its traditional use as a blending grape in France’s Rhône Valley. 

Stolpman use new oak only to ‘frame Roussanne’s viscosity’ while all their other wines see only used wood.  

Winemaker notes - “The 2019 Roussanne offers a nose of white peach, baked apple, and toasted spice mix. The mouth is medium-bodied with plenty of acid to keep the wine fresh and structured well through the finish.”

Jen Dunnuck awarded Jeremy’s label release 95 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 94 points, and Wine Enthusiast 91 points. 

This was big enough to stand up to flavorful pasta and sausage with vodka cream sauce, which one might typically pair with a Red Barolo or Montepulciano.  This was a perfect pairing whic as I often write in these pages, amplifies the enjoyment of the wine and the food. 

An extraordinary, unique wine, bold bordering on obtuse, that bursts with expressive vibrant flavor from the beginning - golden colored, medium to full bodied, a firm edge structured stone fruit, peach and apple accented by spice, floral citrus, almond nut, and mineral with bright acidity on the expressive vibrant long finish. 

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3896315

https://www.stolpmanvineyards.com/

We then moved to a flight of reds starting from this limited release unique label from a well known long time producer. 

Wagner Red Schooner Transit 3 Red Wine NV

This red blend sourced from Australian is from the Wagner Family, makers of legendary Caymus Napa Cabernet and a broad portfolio of other Napa Valley wines.

This is from the Wagner “Red Wine (s) of the World” program that imports red wines from Argentina and Australia. 

This red blend is sourced from notable regions of southern Australia, the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Consisting of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre (Mataro), 

Winemaker/reseller notes - “Vibrant nose with scents of berry basket, chocolate covered strawberries and fresh mint. Intense strawberry/raspberry on palate, along with ripe apricot. Extremely soft tannins give the spotlight to lush, bright fruit. Just like our Red Schooner Malbec from Argentina is known by the “voyage” that produced it, this wine is called a sequential “transit. Transit 3 is bold yet nuanced.” 

“Intense scents of smoky meat and chocolate are layered with light wood and a whiff of mint. Unique Australian character, featuring flavors of plum and more refreshing mint. Soft, dusty tannins with textural richness.”

CT’er Condrieu82 notes - “Deep dark color in the glass. Fruit-forward nose with blueberries and plums. Medium+ acidity and medium tannins, well-balanced with nice, bold dark fruits, dark chocolate notes - layered and dense to a good degree. Definitely a big, bold Australian red, with a medium ending that shows a touch of oak and herbal notes.

Quite pleasant overall, and great for a steak dinner.”

What a pleasant discovery in this unique label offering. This was a definite crowd pleaser. This was a wonderful accompaniment to the grilled beefsteaks on buttered toast points and the medley of chocolates, chocolate covered almonds and raisins. 

It would not be off base to say this was the WOTN - Wine of the Night, for many of the revelers. 

Deep dark inky purple/garnet colored, full bodied, rich, vibrant, expressive but nicely balanced and polished, black and blue fruits accented by a layer of mocha chocolate with polished moderate tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4218362

https://www.wagnerfamilyofwine.com/wine-shop/red-schooner/

https://www.wagnerfamilyofwine.com/

Madame de Beaucaillou Haut-Médoc 2018

I then opened a Left Bank Bordeaux red blend for comparison tasting and pairing with the beef, chocolates and cheeses. 

This is the inaugural release of a special label from the house of Château Ducru Beaucaillou, one of our favorite producers that we know well. I wrote about the house of Borie and their long history back in 2021. As shown on the label, this release recognizes the long history and is a “Homage Madame Eugène-Borie” to the historic matriarch principle Madame Eugène-Borie of the historic Familie de Borie that have operated the estate since the 14th century and still reside in the Chateau to this day.   

We visited the famous Château Ducru Beaucaillou during our Bordeaux St Julien wine experience in 2019 and tasted the 2018 release from the barrel. That vintage went on to receive 100 points from Wine Enthusiast and 99 points from just about everyone else. 

When they released this new label for that vintage so we were compelled to pick some up. 

As I have oft written in these pages, in top vintages, 'all boats rise with the tide', meaning great Chateaux will produce great wines even in their second and third labels, such that those labels often provide tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratios, superb wines at a fraction of the price of the grand vin. 

We had the extraordinary privilege of tasting barrel samples of the 2018 vintage of the Grand Vin in the barrel cellar during our visit to the Chateau in 2019. 

Wine critic Jeb Dunnuck wrote about the 2018 Bordeaux: "In short, 2018 is a thrilling vintage with no shortage of legendary wines and I cannot imagine anyone who purchases these wines will be disappointed...It’s possible to find attractive, well-made, even outstanding, wines that punch well above their price points." 

This is the very first vintage of this new label coming from the cellars of Ducru Beaucaillou. The new wine comes from vineyards located in the Haut-Médoc; plots brought by Madame Eugène-Borie on her marriage and more recently by the acquisition of plots from Madame Fort-Pradère. This wine label was created to pay homage to the woman who chaired the Board from 1998 to today, but also to an attentive and loving mother. Under the Haut Medoc appellation, this wine offers Borie quality at an entry-level price.

In recognition of Ducru's long line of women owners, the chateau released this label noting, “equally inspiring and demanding… all of them had an essential role in the development and renown of Ducru Beaucaillou’s signature style – strength and grace.”

Ducru Beaucaillou is a Bordeaux Second Growth that dates back to 1720 and is named for its terroir – the beautiful stones - ducru beaucaillou ... that are a large part of the composition of the soil of the vineyards adjacent the Gironde River. 

These stones, and the vineyards planted on them, are part of what gives Ducru Beaucaillou its particular Saint Julien character. 

Adjacent is a commemorative 'beautiful pebble', engraved with the historic chateau, in a gift box as a special momento given to guests at/to the estate.  

With the 2018 vintage, Ducru Beaucaillou decided to honor it’s 300^th birthday and its Chairman [chairwoman] of the Board, Mrs. Eugene Borie, for the past decade by creating a new cuvee from her family’s home vineyards. The cuvee is this one, the Madame de Beaucaillou, released in 2020. 

This label wine is vinified in the cellars by the Ducru-Beaucaillou team, receiving the same care and attention: the technical winemaking process, selective blending, and careful ageing for 12 months in barrel (including 20% new oak). 

Madame de Beaucaillou Haut Medoc 2018

In classic Bordeaux style, this is a blend of 39% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. 

Deep garnet-colored, medium bodied, bright expressive vibrant blackberries, blueberries and plum fruits, accented by graphite and a touch of clove, hints of coffee tobacco, cigar and cedar with a savoury round finish with firm structured backbone and sturdy, fine-grain cloying tongue coating tannins that are not for the feint of heart but will impress big Bordeaux enthusiasts. 

This was delicious already and I can only imagine how this will be with three to five or more years of additional integration and aging. 

RM 91 points. This was also awarded 91 points by James Suckling

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=3893569

Upon tasting this, I quickly got on line and ordered the current release of this label, available through En primeur (futures purchase). Stay tuned as I'll dutifully report on that wine as I soon as obtain some and have the opportunity to try it. 

Deep garnet-colored, medium bodied, bright expressive vibrant blackberries, blueberries and plum fruits, accented by graphite and a touch of clove, hints of coffee tobacco, cigar and cedar with a savoury round finish with firm structured backbone and sturdy, fine-grain cloying tongue coating tannins that are not for the feint of heart but will impress big Bordeaux enthusiasts. 

I give this high QPR release 91 Points

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/09/madame-de-beaucaillou-haut-medoc.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3893569

@DucruB #stJulien #medoc #bordeaux #GrandCruClasse1855

http://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/  

Pivoting from an Australian Blend to a classic Bordeaux Blend, we opened a single Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc.  This Bordeaux varietal grape is used to add structure and spice to the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A wine that is 100% single varietal with those characteristics isn't for the feint of heart, but fits the bill perfectly for our tastes. 

Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Katherine Corkrum’ Walla Walla Cabernet Franc 2015   

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the Spring Valley Vineyards tasting room in Walla Walla back in 2018 as covered in this blogpost - October 27, 2018 - Spring Valley Vineyards Tasting and Vineyard Visit.

We joined their wine club and as members receive regular quarterly shipments of their wines. We amassed a collection of the complete portfolio of wines including this label. Our Cellartracker records show we have 95 bottles of 35 different Spring Valley wines in our collection.

One of the great historic Walla Walla wineries, Spring Valley Vineyard lies 12 miles northeast of the town of Walla Walla, amid the picturesque wheat fields of southeastern Washington and the Blue Mountains in the distance. The land that was originally used for farming dating back to the the 1880s. 

Founded by Uriah, Katherine, and continued by the next generation, Frederick, and Nina Lee Corkrum, Shari Corkrum Derby and her husband Dean Derby continued to operate the wheat fields, vineyard and winery. Shari and Dean Derby planted vines on the land from 1993 and made their first vintage in 1999. 

Today, Spring Valley have 110 acres of vines planted, all in the relatively cool micro-climate of Walla Walla Valley in the southeast corner of Washington State.

We had the pleasure of meeting Dean Derby on the property during our visit to the estate.during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby, patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, founder and namesake for their Bordeaux Blend label, husband to Katherine, namesake for this label. 

Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience, especially since he has since passed on. We posted a Tribute to Dean Derby and memorium of that visit - Spring Valley Vineyard toward the end of 2021. 

We thought of him last week as his alma mater, University of Washington played in the NCAA national football championship, and next year join the Big Ten conference. I wrote about Dean playing on and being captain of that football team in my tribute blogpost.

The Derby's son Devin Corkrum Derby served as winemaker until his passing in 2004. Devin’s assistant and friend Serge Laville took over as winemaker and has been crafting wines since. Originally they focused on varietals from the Northern Rhone region in France, they expanded production to Bordeaux varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and this Cabernet Franc, and a Right Bank and a Left Bank style Bordeaux Blend. 

I've written often in these pages about Spring Valley Vineyards portfolio of wines named for members paying homage to the family and ancestors dating back to the first generation founders at the turn of the last century. We have several vintage releases of their annual case that features six of these labels - each one commemorating a different family member. This Cabernet Franc is named in honor of founder Uriah Corkrum’s wife Katherine, a native of Wales who immigrated to Walla Walla Territory in 1897. She and Uriah had four sons, including Frederick Corkrum.

Spring Valley Vineyards Katherine Cabernet Franc 2015

I wrote about Spring Valley and this label in several posts in these pages, including  Spring Valley “Katherine” Cabernet Franc, excerpted here.

This is another family oriented producer with family oriented branding which we enjoy serving for family (and friends) occasions such as this.  

We have a vertical collection of seven vintages of this wine. Normally, as part of cellar management, I would open the oldest, earliest vintage to drink, but, I pulled a bottle from the rack, not thinking that we have a couple older vintages in the decorative OWC - Original Wood Cases, each with a vertical collection that include this label. I'll need to 'break' those collections at some point and consume the older releases. 

Spring Valley Vineyards ‘Katherine Corkrum’ Walla Walla Cabernet Franc 2015   

This wine commemorates Katherine Williams Corkrum, born and raised in Wales, then came to America and settled in Walla Walla Washington to eventually marry Uriah Corkrum. Together they raised a family with three sons that would follow for three generations developing the property. 

This is 100% estate grown Cabernet Franc. The vines follow the north-south slope of the hills in vertical rows, an orientation that when combined with the declination of the slope, allows the vines to take optimal advantage of air drainage, sunshine, and the reflective nature of the surrounding wheat fields.

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - “This Cabernet Franc has plenty of herbal notes with abundant flavors of raspberry and cassis and a touch of spice.” - ~ Winemaker Serge Laville 

100% Cabernet Franc, this was aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 30% new

This was rated 91 points by Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, full round with a silky smooth texture, ripe dark blackberry fruits with notes of spice, cassis, mocha chocolate, herbs and tobacco with toasty oak on a lingering moderate tannin finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2767108

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2767108

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

We don’t get to do it often but we always have a wonderful time. We look forward to our next gathering of our neighborhood friends.