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Saturday, July 27, 2024

Pour Boys Wine Dinner on the Deck

Pour Boys Wine Dinner on the Deck

We hosted a few of the remaining Chicago area Pour Boys of our wine group for a dinner on the deck featuring grilled tenderloin beefsteaks and a flight of premium red wines. 


Prior to dinner we served an extensive selection of artisan cheeses with assorted biscuits.


Blue Castillo Triple Cream Blue Cheese
Murray’s Gruyere
Mango Ginger Stilton
Wensleydale with Blueberries
Sumerdale IL Trufflino infused Chedder

With the cheeses and salad course of Balsamic Caprese Salad with cherry bomb tomatoes and fresh garden grown basel, we served a vintage Napa Valley Methode Traditionelle Champonaise Sparkling Wine and an Italian white blend. 




Mumm’s DVX Napa Valley Methode Champonaise Sparkling Wine 2000

This is from the legendary GH Mumm leading international champagne brand in France that dates back to its founding by the Mumm brothers in 1827 in Reims, France.

We visited the G.H. Mumm estate vineyards during our tour of the French Champagne region back in 2006. 


From 1976-1979 G.H. Mumm sent Winemaker Guy Devaux to discover the ideal winemaking area for growing traditional Champagne grapes in the United States. In 1979 they established Mumm Napa in California to produce premium hand crafted sparkling wines using traditional wine making techniques of its French heritage.

In 1983, they produced the first wine under the name Domaine Mumm  following the French Méthode traditionnelle method. The Mumm Napa brand was established in 1990 and in 1991 they developed the Estate Vineyard, Devaux Ranch in the Carneros Region of Napa Valley.

This special label is in memory of Mumm founding winemaker Gary Deveaux who in 1979 determined Napa Valley an ideal place to source grapes for classic sparkling wines. He crafted this blend from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for this 2000 vintage special bottling. 



2020 Vini Franchetti Passopisciaro Terre Siciliane IGT "Passobianco," Sicily, Italy



Instead of the indigenous Carricante, which grows on the eastern side of the volcano, Passobianco is made of 100% Chardonnay. 

This is from notable wine producer Andrea Franchetti proprietor of two very different vineyard projects, his first estate Tenuta di Trinoro developed from scratch, on rough farm and woodland in the far-flung reaches of southwest Tuscany. His other is on the slopes of Mt. Etna, and was the renaissance of reclaimed formerly abandoned terraces of vines upon Sicily’s live volcano. Both sites are extraordinary, complex, and poles apart in terms of terroir. From both his Tuscan and Sicilian estates, he produces a portfolio of wines that is rich and diverse. Each wine expresses the characteristics of the vintage, the particulars of the locations, and the fullest potential of the varieties.

In 2000 Andrea Franchetti restored an old farm and cellars on the slopes of Mount Etna, an active volcano in northeastern Sicily. The winery sits at about a thousand meters of altitude above the small wine town of Passopisciaro in the district of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slope of the volcano. 

He cleared and restored long-abandoned terraces of ancient vines on the northern slopes of the mountain,  replanting at a density of 12,000 vines per hectare on thin lavic soil. At the Passopisciaro estate, he focuses primarily on the native grape Nerello Mascalese and its various expressions of terroir and altitudes through a series of crus, but also produces wines of the varieties Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and Cesanese d’Affile.

There on Mt. Etna, Franchetti planted ten acres on steep terraces between 850 and 1,000 meters /2,600 and 3,300 feet above sea level in Contrada Guardiola, in very loose, deep, powder like lava that is rich in minerals. 

The high altitude, sun-drenched vineyards are are planted on lava flow from the volcano that possess a rich unique mineral profile, giving rise to the notion of various terroirs, here called contrade. Franchetti leverages the strengths of his chosen terroir on Etna, producing wines of remarkable complexity and individual personality. Significant temperature differences between day and night also play an important role, necessitating a longer growing period and this, in turn, contributes complexity and intensity, as do the profound mineral elements of the volcanic soils.

This is 100% Chardonnay, first released 2007, then known as Guardiola Bianco. Its complexities bring together the specific light, drastic changes in temperature, altitude, and volcanic influences of Etna, and the choice of Chardonnay was meant to allow these influences to meld and evolve over time as the white ages, inspired by the aging potential of the great whites of Burgundy. 

The site conditions are extraordinarily fussy, such that they pick small select portions of the vineyard every day, tasting the berries trailing along the terraces day after day, harvesting only when each individual cluster is ripe. The resulting wine is rich yet fresh, bright yet layered.

This 2020 release was rated 93 points by Monica Larner, Robertparker.com, 92 points by Danielle Callegari, Wine Enthusiast and Othmar Kiem – Simon Staffler, Falstaff, and 90 points by Eric Guido, Vinous.  Production was 36,000 bottles.

Light straw colored, light medium bodied, extraordinarily complex and evolving flavors over the course of the evening, notes of mineral, spice and crushed rocks, citrus and pear fruits that turned to peach, then honeysuckle and lime with hints of  toasted nuts and what one pundit referred to as ‘buttered sourdough bread on the back palate’, which was quite imaginatively insightful and illuminating, with tangy acidity on the rich finish. 

RM 91 points,




https://www.vinifranchetti.com/passopisciaro/the-wines/passo-bianco/


For the main dinner course, Linda prepared grilled beef tenderloin, ramekins of Gruyère Chive Mashed Potatoes, and a Vegetable Medley of summer squash, zucchini, green onions, cherry bomb tomatoes and baby portobello mushrooms with Parmesan cheese. 




With the main course we opened an imaginative flight of assorted premium red wines. As usual, care was taken to serve the wines in the proper order - light to heavy, with the complex red blend for the main course, and the heavier big bold red last as we pivoted to the dessert course and dessert wine.  


Red wine flight - 

Scarànto 2020 Italian Sangiovese Blend
Costello Banfi Poggio Al’Oro Brunello Di Montalcino Reserva 2015
Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Red Blend 2001
Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon 2019



Scarànto 2020 Sangiovese based blend from Italy

Scarànto is a medium- to full-bodied red wine with expressive Morello cherry, blackberry, dried red fruit, and herb aromas. Look for the same flavors on the concentrated, velvety-smooth palate. Hints of spice introduce the long, satisfying finish.

This Tuscan red is from special vineyards in the Conca d’Oro (golden conch)—a hallowed, shell-shaped slope in the heart of Chianti's famed Panzano district. Those vineyards are next door to Fontodi, whose flagship red costs over $100 a bottle. This release received a perfect 100-point score from Italian critic Cosimo Dell'Anna.

Scarànto is the first solo project from the talented Matteo Bernabei who heretofore worked alongside his legendary father, Franco — dubbed “Mr. Sangiovese” by the Italian press—as a consultant to some of Italy’s top estates (like the aforementioned Fontodi). See the duo below.

For this hugely acclaimed, barrel-aged Super Tuscan-blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot (30%), he used the traditional governo method. After hand harvesting the fruit in September, he held back a small amount of Sangiovese grapes, air-drying them until December. Called leggermente appassito, these raisined grapes are added to the wine for a flavor-boosting secondary fermentation that brings extra richness and concentration.

Over to critic Cosimo Dell'Anna on what you can expect in the glass:

“Superb...cherry, blackberry, dried rose, tobacco and tar, with a balsamic finish. Soft and enveloping on the palate, it's rich and warm...with hints of jam and cocoa. 100 points.”

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From hallowed Chianti Classico vineyards (next to Fontodi, whose flagship red costs over $100 a bottle), this “superb” Sangiovese-Merlot from stellar 2020 was made using an ancient, flavor-boosting met


Costella Banfi Poggio All’Oro Brunello Di Montalcino Reserva 2015

A Banfi family jewel, the Reserva Brunello, Poggio all'Oro is produced exclusively in the great vintages. A particularly elegant Brunello with a complex personality, which is expressed to the nose through a series of scents that are expressed slowly, from licorice, coffee, plum jam, and tobacco to end even with a slight hint of violet. The refined structure is in perfect balance with the acid part, which excellently supports the long persistence, perfectly suited to long ageing. It perfectly pairs with rich and complex dishes, also excellent as a meditation wine.


Winemaker Notes
The Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has a deep ruby red color and a complex aroma of ripe black cherry, plum, tobacco, leather, and spices. On the palate, this wine is full-bodied, with a firm structure, balanced tannins, and a long, lingering finish.
Wine Enthusiast

98+ points Luca Gardini: "Thirty months in small barrels followed by fermentation with maceration lasting 12-14 days. A wine of unique character on the nose recalling cherry, bay leaf and caper berries with hints of caramel. The mouthfeel is taut, iodized and balsamic. On the finish, a salty return with excellent persistence. (Nov 2020)"

96 points Monica Larner (Wine Advocate): "[$200 list] The Castello Banfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all'Oro is the top-shelf wine and shows careful integration and well-managed intensity. It opens to tart berry fruit, cassis and sour cherry. As it reveals itself in the glass, it begins to slowly deliver more spice, smoke and tar. All these various elements come together with balance and harmony, although these 2015 Riservas remain plumper and richer compared to their counterparts from 2016. Wait a few more years before opening this bottle; it needs more time. Some 27,000 bottles were made, and this wine will be released in September 2021. (Nov 2020)"

96 points/'Cellar Selection,' Kerin O'Keefe (Wine Enthusiast): "[$200 list] Forest-floor, new leather and pipe-tobacco aromas mingle with notes of violet and coffee bean. Elegantly structured, the taut, savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, licorice and a hint of espresso while polished, fine-grained tannins and tangy acidity provide age-worthy support. It's still youthfully austere so give it a few more years to come around. Drink 2024–2036. Alcohol 14%. (May 2021)"

95 points Jeb Dunnuck: "The 2015 Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is only produced in exceptional vintages and was aged for 30 months in 70% large French oak casks and 30% in French oak barriques. It reveals smoky aromatics of cedar, dried black cherry, and dark mineral earth and a persistent core of ripe black fruit that is cloaked with ripe, velvety tannins and notes of black tea and clove. A luxurious and contemplative wine from the historic Banfi estate, it will benefit from additional time in the cellar and keep over the next 20 years. Drink: 2025-2045. (3/4/21)"

95 points James Suckling: "Mixed-cherry, floral and crushed-stone aromas. Full-bodied with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Linear and tight with a line of fine tannins that holds this all together. Iodine and mushroom notes come through. Try after 2023. (11/5/20)"


96 points, Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast: “Forest-floor, new leather and pipe-tobacco aromas mingle with notes of violet and coffee bean. Elegantly structured, the taut, savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, licorice and a hint of espresso while polished, fine-grained tannins and tangy acidity provide age-worthy support. It's still youthfully austere so give it a few more years to come around. Drink 2024–2036.” 05/21

Wine Advocate
96 points, Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: “The Castello Banfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all'Oro is the top-shelf wine and shows careful integration and well-managed intensity. It opens to tart berry fruit, cassis and sour cherry. As it reveals itself in the glass, it begins to slowly deliver more spice, smoke and tar. All these various elements come together with balance and harmony, although these 2015 Riservas remain plumper and richer compared to their counterparts from 2016. Wait a few more years before opening this bottle; it needs more time. Some 27,000 bottles were made, and this wine will be released in September 2021.” 11/20

James Suckling
95 points, James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com: “Mixed-cherry, floral and crushed-stone aromas. Full-bodied with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Linear and tight with a line of fine tannins that holds this all together. Iodine and mushroom notes come through. Try after 2023.” 11/20




Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Red Blend 2001

I wrote about Cloud View in a detailed blogpost last summer - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. I wrote that the estate was sold and is now owned by Tim Mondavi of Continuum. 

Excerpts from that and earlier posts ...

The Cloud View Vineyards estate was located on Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall of Napa Valley, just south of Lake Hennessy and to the east of the Oakville AVA. The vineyards are grown between 1,000 and 1,500 feet above the Napa Valley floor. They were originally planted by owners Linda and Leighton Taylor who moved to Pritchard Hill in 1990 and began planting 23 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on the 90 acre property five years later in 1995.

The property eventually included 26 acres planted to Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot, planted by the original owners Linda and Leighton Taylor.

After selling the property, the Taylors had intended to continue the brand, but use purchased Pritchard Hill grapes but we've never seen any indication of a release from them.

Pritchard Hill is the site of some of Napa's most prestigious labels including Brand, Bryant Family, Colgin, Del Dotto's ultra-premium Villa Del Lago, Ovid and one of our favorites, Chappellet and David Arthur. We visited David Arthur on Pritchard Hill during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013, and previously, we visited Chappellet on other side of Pritchard Hill during our Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley Experience - Autumn '09 with our visit to long time resident/producer Chappellet Vineyards.

While Pritchard Hill is not an official appellation (AVA - American Viticultural Area), it certainly could be, but lacks a sponsor to apply and lobby for designation. Donn Chappellet, owner/producer, the earliest settler in the modern era owns the 1971 Pritchard Hill trademark and firmly declares, “It will not become its own AVA.”This 1999 Cloud View release was the inaugural release of wine and this label from this estate. Production was limited with 400 cases produced in 1999, 560 cases were made in 2000, growing to 2,000 cases were made in 2004.

We have six vintages of this label, from the 1999 through the 2005 vintage. A fellow Cellertracker'er contacted me year before last, seeking one of our vintages to fill out his vertical collection. We traded bottles to each fill out our verticals in a perfect trade scenario. Of our six vintages we hold of this label, we selected the oldest one, tonight, as part of cellar inventory management. Earlier we drank the ‘99 and 2000 releases so tonight, this ‘01 was our oldest vintage. We recently drank an ultra-premium Napa Bordeaux from this same 2001 vintage, so I was eager to compare the two.

This vintage release is a blend of 57% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, all sourced from the winery's estate vineyards. Interesting that they publish the lower percentage Merlot first and the majority Cabernet second (on the rear label - as shown here). Note this very limited production release was acquired at auction at Winebid.com. 

The winemaker for these wines was Karen Bower Turjanis who previously worked under Paul Hobbs at Lokoya and Cardinale Estate. We tasted a Cardinale Estate just the other evening, as featured in a blogpost in these pages - Boys night features flight of ultra-premium Napa Cabernets. Fernando Espinoza was the cellarmaster and owner Linda Taylor was the vineyard manager.

The entire 85-acre Cloud View property was acquired by Continuum, the wine label owned by brother and sister Tim and Marcia Mondavi with Margrit Biever Mondavi, widow of the legendary Robert Mondavi. The Continuum brand was founded in 2005, and is Tim Mondavi's first venture since leaving the Robert Mondavi Winery in 2003. Both the 2006 and 2005 vintages were made from grapes from a leased Oakville property, and the Pritchard Hill purchase helps realize the family's goal of being a single-vineyard estate winery. The switch from an Oakville bottling to a Pritchard Hill bottling began with the 2008 vintage.

The late Robert Mondavi, who was also a partner in the Continuum brand, visited the site with his family before he passed away in May of 2008. "It's so meaningful that he saw it, to see where we are headed in the future," said Carissa.

Winemaker Notes for the Cloud View Vineyard's 1999 Proprietary Red Table Wine .... "is rich with intensely dark ripe fruit, round mid-palate and a long lingering finish of velvety tannins. The myriad of aromas includes anise and fennel, black olive and wild ginger, and is supported by a solid base of dark fruit and the toasty vanilla of fine French oak. On the palate, the ripe fruit opens up to hues of raspberry, blackberry, and dark black cherry with subtleties of lavender. The tannic backbone, which draws itself directly from this mountain site, weaves seamlessly with the warmth of creamy oak. We have crafted this wine for enjoyment now and well into the future. Aroma & Color Earthy–red dust, dark ripe fruit, wild sage, anise, fennel, black olive, ginger, vanilla oak. Profoundly garnet with the deep colors unique to mountain fruit. Flavor - Dark ripe fruit, raspberry, blackberry, lavender, velvety tannins, and subtle, creamy oak. Overall comments - Lush, delicious, round mid-palate, long finish, mouth filling.

I featured other vintages of this label in these pages in these blogposts and Cellertracker posted tasting notes.
In February 2018 - I wrote I like this wine: and gave it 92 Points.

This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, with firm concentrated structured core of brambley earthy black currant and black berry fruits with a layer of sweet caramel accented by tones of cassis, sweet spicy tangy oak and silky tannins on the lingering finish.

I featured it in a blogpost in these pages - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/cloud-view-napa-valley-pritchard-hill.html

In June last summer, 2023 I featured this label in these pages in this blogpost - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The Brand estate had been owned by the Miner Family Winery till it was purchased by businessman Ed Fitts. Portuguese Gandona owners bought the land from Bob Long (Zelma’s husband) when Long Vineyards ceased operations.

The Cloud View Vineyards estate ceased operation with the 2006 vintage when it was sold to Tim Mondavi when he struck out on his own after the family broke away from Robert Mondavi Winery. When he acquired the Pritchard Hill estate and founded Continuum Estate, the 62 acre vineyard was the second largest estate in the region. Note that the Cloud View brand was not sold so we might see it re-emerge in some fashion at some point in the future although the website is gone and the domain name is for sale.

In November 2021, fellow Cellartracker'er Thirsty1 wrote about this wine in a vertical tasting.


"The 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005 Cloud View Vineyards wines were enjoyed side by side at Bourbon Steak with Rib Cap, grilled Vidalia onions and crispy brussel sprouts. The wines were left upright for a day, then opened with an ah-so at home an hour before dinner to keep the corks together, then quickly reinserted to minimize oxygenation. The clear winner was the 2002 - in full flight. Still exhibiting youthful fruit and towering structure, this beauty had weight, leather, dark hanging fruit and stunning aroma. Lingering, lasting finish. It still has much life ahead of it. The 2001 was a bit of a surprise. It was massive and brutish, but reserved. As if it were a towering building draped in a cape. The 2000 was a shocker. From a horrible vintage, it excelled. Not near the greatness of the other vintages there was no expectation it would be good, and it was - just to a lesser note. The 2003, 04 and 05 were fairly interchangeable; mature fruit, acid and tannins in balance. All delicious in their own right. The 1999 was the oldest and looked the part. It was brick around the rim and had that dried blackberry note, plowed earth and cocoa powder texture. It was the only one, aside from the 2000, that I would say was on the decline. Incredible wines on an incredible night."

I've been waiting for an opportunity to enjoy this rare label and the other five vintage releases that I hold in the cellar. This tasting was consistent with earlier tastings of other vintages.

2001 Cloud View Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 

91 points Wine Enthusiast

Smoky and tarry at first, later opening into black cherry and tobacco notes. Long, intense and tannic on the finish; needs time. (6/2005) Int'l Wine Cellar

Subtle aromas of dark berries, sassafras and bitter chocolate; became oakier with aeration. Lively, intense, supple flavors of dark berries, chocolate and spices, nicely framed by well-integrated acids. Finishes with firm, building tannins. (ST) (6/2004) 

K&L Notes

Continuum purchased this prime vineyard site on Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Mountains in the mid-2000s. Cloud View produced a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend that Robert Parker once noted "...adroitly marries the elegance of Bordeaux with Napa Valley's rich, ripe fruit."


We then moved to the final Cabernet Bordeaux varietal of the evening.

Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This is from Don Melchor Estate Vineyard located at the foot of the Andes Mountains on the northern bank of the Maipo River, 650 m above sea level. It consists of 310 acres, planted to 90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7.1% Cabernet Franc, 1.9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The vines in the old vineyard average 30 years in age.







Antonio Federici Rosso Roma 2021
Red Blend from Italy
4.3 out of 5 stars, average rating value. Read 777 Reviews. Same page li3 out of 6 (50%) reviewers recommend this product

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Cantine Federici is one of the first (and best) producers in Italy’s Roma region. You have insi




Wine Flavor Profile
Antonio Federici is a full-bodied red with ripe Morello cherry and delicate raspberry aromas. The sumptuous palate has luscious black fruit and cherry flavors, plus hints of warming spice on the long, complex finish.





Led by third-generation Damiano Federici, Cantine Federici is one of the first (and best) producers in Italy’s Roma region.


Named after Damiano’s grandfather, this powerful red marries hand-harvested Montepulciano and Cesanese grown in the hills outside of Rome—the same ones that supplied stone for the Colosseum.

Continuing a well-established tradition, the new release arrives with major acclaim. It sports a 98-point score from leading Italian critic Luca Maroni, as well as a double-gold medal and Great Value designation from the China Wine & Spirits Awards. Crafted with a portion of dried grapes (which creates seriously concentrated flavors), Antonio Federici delivers a sumptuous texture, with luscious black fruit and warming spice notes.

Most of Cantine Federici’s wines are sold directly to local restaurants (where they’re served with rigatoni all’amatriciana and other hearty pasta dishes)—so it’s rare to see them in the U.S. Act quickly for your share of this Roman sensation.





varieties
cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc merlot
petit verdot
bottling date
December 2020
92% 5% 2% 1%

winemaker
Enrique Tirado.
vineyard
Don Melchor Vineyard, D.O. Puente Alto, Alto Maipo Valley.
vineyard description
Later, the ripening period in March and April was marked by cool temperatures that continued throughout the entire harvest period, which is ideal for achieving slow ripening in the bunches, the perfect condition for obtaining lively fruit expression and tremendous elegance in the tannins.
Looking at the entire ripening period between January and April 2019, we observe an average of 18.2oC, which is slightly higher than the historic average of 18.0oC.
harvest
Manual, from March 18 through May 9, 2019. The vineyard yield was 4.0 tons per hectare.
vinification cellar
Don Melchor Cellar, Puente Alto.
vinification
Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks and lasted 8 days at 25o–26oC with 3 pumpovers per day. Upon completion of the fermentation process, the tank was hermetically sealed for an 8- to 10-day maceration at 23o–25oC for greater extraction and smoother tannins. At the end of the maceration period, each tank was drained, tasted, and evaluated for selection by the Don Melchor enological and viticultural team. All of the wines were later tasted and selected to make the final blend, which was then transferred to barrels.
aging
15 months in French oak barrels (72% new and 28% second use).
aging potential
Over 35 years.
tasting notes
Deep purplish-red in color. The wine from this vintage shows an extraordinary elegance with an abundance of fresh red fruit and notes of blackcurrants and flowers.
On the palate it has an enormous wealth of flavors, with breadth from beginning to end, and plenty of energy in perfect balance with the elegance of the textures and flavors.
food pairing
Red meats, especially lamb, and game meats prepared by different methods—roasted, braised, and with sauces made with red wine, mushrooms, rosemary, and tomatoes. Assorted terrines and pâtés, especially duck with truffles. Dry and well-aged or creamy cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses.


The Don Melchor Vineyard is located at the foot of the Andes Mountains on the northern bank of the Maipo River, 650 m above sea level. It consists of 127 hectares, planted to 90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7.1% Cabernet Franc, 1.9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The vines in the old vineyard average 30 years in age.

plantation year and density
Old vineyard (80%): 1979–1992, 2,000 to 4,000 plants/hectare
New vineyard (20%): 2004–2017, 8,000 plants/hectare

soil
The first 30 cm of the soil profile is loam. Then, a large number of stones with a sandy-loam texture appear at depth. These soils ensure good drainage and low fertility, conditions that allow the restriction of vegetative growth and generate the ideal restriction of water during veraison. This encourages the accumulation and ripening of phenolic compounds, which is very important for producing great red wines.

climate
In general, the vineyard has a semi-arid Mediterranean climate with an average annual rainfall of 335 mm. This is one of the coldest zones of the Alto Maipo Valley.
This season was characterized by presenting less rain than in a normal year, with just 161.6 mm, primarily concentrated in the winter and spring. On the other hand, the average annual temperatures were close to normal, with higher temperatures in November, which encouraged good, concentrated flowering and fruit set, and in January and February, which produced the

Saturday, January 6, 2024

Venge and Beau Vigne wines with intimate family dinner

Venge and Beau Vigne wines with intimate family dinner - Venge Napa Syrah with Vodka Cream Sauce Pasta

We were invited to son Alec's and Vivianna's house for dinner to watch IU Hoosier Big Ten Basketball. Alec prepared a delicious vodka cream sauce with penne pasta, baked bread and a delightful Cesar Salad. 


Prior to dinner, Alec opened a nice Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay for sipping with some artisan cheese and with the salad course. He served a delectable Saint Andre Triple Cream cheese from Murray's Cheese that was an ideal pairing with the Chardonnay.

 I've written in these pages the irony that Murray's Cheese is now available locally from our Mariano's Grocery Store. We used to shop at Murray's Cheese Shop and dine at Murray's Cheese and Wine Bar on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village in New York with Alec and Viv when they lived in Manhatten. After they moved to Chicago, Murray's was sold to Kroger who had also acquired the Mariano's Grocery chain.

Beau Vigne Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2021

Both Alec and we have collected several labels of Napa Valley wines from this producer Beau Vigne. This is the first time I have seen or tasted any of their white wines including this Reserve Chardonnay. 

 Winemaker's notes - "2021 Reserve Chardonnay -this is Napa Valley after all- and while you might expect today’s offering  to resemble the classic weighty, juicy, oaky versions, you are absolutely correct. We feel this 2021 ranks as one of the most pleasant Reserve Chardonnay's we've produced to date."

The Vineyard runs along a northern stretch of Carneros soils that are thin and rocky. As a result, these old vines struggle to produce even the most modest of crops.  

Tasting Notes: Fresh almond, apple turnover with hints of rose and lavender honey. The concentrated mouthfeel is draped in white stone fruits. The wine showcases our commitment to minimal intervention winemaking.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4510075

https://shop.beauvigne.com/product/2021-Reserve-Chardonnay

For pairing with dinner, I took a Venge Vineyards Napa Valley Syrah

I've written often in these pages about the fun we have with the "V" collection of wines from Venge Vineyards with our daughter-in-law Vivianna. 

Venge Vineyards Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Block 1-4 Syrah 2015

This is produced by Kirk Venge, son of legendary Nils’ and Dianna Venge, who was exposed to winemaking at an early age and has proven to be as talented a winemaker as his father.

In 2008, Kirk stepped into Nil's shoes and acquired full ownership of Venge Vineyards in 2008. To this day, Kirk continues the Napa Valley heritage, focusing on select vineyard sites that produce fruit worthy of bearing the Venge family name. 

We visited Nil's at the Penny Lane Venge Family Vineyard and Winery down in central Napa Valley, and then went up and met Kirk at his new estate near Calistoga back in 2002 as chronicled in this blogpost - Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils and Kirk Venge.

Since then, we've acquired many Venge labels from his various brands that extend beyond the Venge name.

This is from the legendary Stagecoach Vineyard, which according to the producer, "Stagecoach is one of the Napa Valley’s largest and leading mountain vineyards located near the Atlas Peak AVA at an elevation of around 1,700 feet above sea level. The soil is very rocky and topography very steep. Temperatures are warm in the midday and cold at night. This diurnal effect makes for a balance of vibrant acidity and fruit structure that is concentrated and focuessed. “Block I-4” is referenced in this bottling because of its very high elevation relative to the rest of the Stagecoach Vineyard."  

"Stagecoach Vineyard continues to produce Syrah of unparalleled quality. The Syrahs from that mountain vineyard really shine from the steep, rocky terroir of the location."

The 2017 vintage possesses a bold, deep, dark color that opens the door to an array of black fruit aromatics. Cassis, blackberry, warm toasted bread and French Oak vanillin all fill the glass with purpose. While still young and in development, the palate shows superior promise with minerals, tongue swirling acidity, cherry and black plum.  The tannins are firm and support the back palate for several moments beyond the initial taste. If cellared correctly, this wine will continue to improve through 2029.

The wine was managed under the Venge barrel program of 100% French oak with 60% entirely new Francois Frères from the tight grained Voges forest in both medium and heavy toast. Bottled unfiltered.

This was the latest tasting of another vintage of a mini-vertical collection of this limited release label I picked up at auction, and it was by far the best so far. 

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.

This is the style and profile of wine we most enjoy - Linda's absolute favorite, big, thick, chewy full throttle full fruit Syrah.

Dark inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, powerful concentrated chewy unctuous textured black and blue fruits with a layer of vanilla and spice with notes of what Robert Parker's Wine Advocate calls "Chinese five spice, hoisin and cardamom over a core of plum preserves, violets and blackberry pie with a waft of earth", with firm, big but polished fine-grained tannins on a tongue coated long finish.

RM 94 Points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3223878

https://www.vengevineyards.com/

 

Thursday, September 21, 2023

Chateau St Jean Malbec Reserve with Murray's Blue Cheese

Chateau St Jean Malbec Reserve with Murray's Blue Cheese

While at the local Mariano's Grocery, we picked up some artisan Murray's Blue Cheese at the cheese shop and were eager to try it with some fresh baked bread and wine. 

This Treasure Cave® brand Blue Cheese has a long and rich history as the first commercially produced blue cheese brand in the United States. In 1935, caves in Faribault, Minnesota, were renovated and turned into a cheese-making facility. The caves provided the right temperature and environment to produce authentic, cave-aged cheeses. Produced in caves, Treasure Cave cheeses today are made in a state-of-the-art facility in Almena, Wisconsin, with curing cells to finalize the production while ensuring consistent quality of the brand's blue and gorgonzola cheeses.

I've written in these pages about the irony that Murray's Cheese shop and wine and cheese bar/restaurant on Bleeker Street in New York City, Greenwich Village, one of our favorite eateries there, sold out to national retail grocer Kroger, who also took over local Chicago grocer Mariano's. Hence, the iconic New York cheese purveyor now has an in-store cheese shop in our neighborhood grocery here in Naperville. 

Previous posts featuring Murray's Cheese in these pages:

Murray's Cheese Restaurant and wine bar on Bleeker Street in the Greenwich Village - Ultimate Wine Cheese Experience

Coronavirus Virtual Family Dinner and Birthday Celebration
features Murrays Cheese Pairing

Murray's Cheese - and wine too

Murray's Cheese Wine Dinner

Looking at guidance from several cheese and wine sites, several suggested Malbec as an ideal wine for pairing with Blue Cheese, so I pulled from our cellar this premium Reserve Malbec for a cheese and wine pairing. 

Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Malbec Reserve 2013

We tasted and obtained this label as part of a Reserve wine flight pairing at the Chateau St Jean estate during our Sonoma Napa Wine Experience back in 2017.  I featured that tasting in a blogpost in these pages at the time - July 30, 2017 - Chateau St Jean Sonoma Reserve Private Tasting

Our Pour Boys 2017 Sonoma Napa Wine Experience started on the Sonoma Coast and worked east along the Russian River Valley ending up in Sonoma Valley at one of its crown jewel estates, Chateau St Jean. Bill C., a wine club member arranged for a special Reserve private tasting. 
 
The Chateau St Jean estate is one of the most picturesque and authentic in the Sonoma Valley and is more civil and hospitable than some of the garish ostentatious properties in the more highly commercialized Napa Valley. This was a perfect buffer and transition from the more relaxed Sonoma County to the Valley as we transitioned to spend the coming week in Napa (Valley).

Private tastings are held in the cottage (shown right) across the courtyard from the hospitality center. 

We've visited the estate and done tastings there numerous times over the years. Sonoma Harvest '09 - Chateau St Jean and again Sonoma Valley Wine Experience 2009 - Chateau St Jean.

This label was one of the highlights of that tasting. 

Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Reserve Malbec 2013

Malbec grapes tend to have a dark inky color and robust tannins. It is one of the six designated grapes allowed in the blend of red Bordeaux wine. It is added to the blend to add deep color, intensity, tannin, structure, and complexity to the wine. 

The Malbec grape is thin-skinned tends to need more sun and heat than either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to mature. The grape became less popular in Bordeaux after a devastating frost in 1956 killed off 75% of the crop forcing replanting of the varietal. 

The grape is included in the blend to add dark color, body and structure to the wine. As the trend to robust forward wines became more popular, many producers crafted wines that were a majority, even100% Malbec. The varietal gained notoriety and become popular as one of the main varietals planted in Argentina.

This St Jean label is produced and released in very limited quantities and hence is only available to wine club members at the winery.

Winemaker's notes: The Reserve Malbec was blended with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) to round out the final vintage. Individual lots of each variety were aged separately for 28 months exclusively in small French oak barrels with only 5% being new barrels. Barrel by barrel, each lot was tasted and the most outstanding Malbec barrels were selected and then blended with specific lots of Cabernet Sauvignon to complete the final wine.

This 2013 Reserve Malbec offers bright aromas of boysenberry and blackberry fruit, subtle clove spice and a high-tone violet floral note. The inviting nose leads to a full, plush palate with powerful yet well-integrated and smooth tannins. Flavors of boysenberry jam, black cherry and spice are distinct on the palate. The wine is round with balanced acidity leading to a lengthy and flavorful finish.

Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren has championed Malbec and believes the variety flourishes in Sonoma at selected sites. It has become one of her favorite wines to bottle as a varietal. The Malbec for this wine comes from the Asti Vineyard in Alexander Valley at the northern end of Sonoma County as well as the St. Jean Estate vineyard in the heart of Sonoma Valley. The beautiful 2013 growing season resulted in wines with great depth of flavor, intense color and excellent balance. The Malbec consistently ripened with a concentrated core of fruit balanced by bright acidity.
 
This was a nice pairing with it's robust full flavors standing up to the hearty cheese.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2455397

https://www.chateaustjean.com/

https://twitter.com/chateaustjean1

https://twitter.com/MurraysCheese 

Saturday, February 25, 2023

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023

 OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023

The last Saturday in February brings the annual OTBN wine event – Open That Bottle Night – the 24th such event since its creation in 2000 by Dorothy Gaither and John Brecher wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal.

And, for the twelfth straight year, since 2011, members of our Pour Boys (TM) wine group assembled to share and compare special bottles of wine, that have been held in our cellars, waiting for the special occasion to open, so as to eventually succumb to the inevitable, its time, open that bottle (to)night!

As is becoming our custom, we’re starting to follow the seasons, and congregate in the south during the winter, and the north during the other seasons. As such, we gathered again at Bill and Beth C’s in Charleston, SC for this years' gala.

This year’s event was hosted by Bill and Beth C at their home on Seabrook Island, SC. The Saturday night OTBN dinner was held at the Seabrook Island Clubhouse Ashley Room private dining room. 

 

Several members were not able to attend due to family and other commitments but we'll look forward to having them participate in our other scheduled events this spring, summer and fall, back in Chicago-land.

This year, while we defy any theme other than the spirit of OTBN, we narrowed some of our selections to a couple of vintages, since we all have rather deep and broad cellar collections that offer at times perhaps an overwhelming range of choices.

To that end we brought a couple mini horizontals - multiple labels from the same vintage - a selection of 1995 Napa Cabernets and one of 2015 vintage premium Chardonnays - Mayacamas Napa Valley Mt Veeder and Sea Smoke Santa Barbara County Santa Rita Hills.

The Chardonnays from two of our favorite producers were an ideal comparison tasting of two diverse contrasting styles, and perfect accompaniment to the Seabrook Club Sea Scallops and the Salmon entree selections. 

We tasted the Mayacamas wine at the estate winery with Bill and Beth during our Mayacamas Mt Veeder Napa Valley Winery Visit during our Spring 2011 Napa Valley Mt Veeder Wine Experience. Both Bill and Dan are collectors as members of the Sea Smoke wine club and source this iconic premium label.
 

 
The Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon Horizontal flight from 1995. 
 

This year, a few new designations or declarations emerged, perhaps for the future. From our selection of a dozen and a half bottles of wine, to be enjoyed over the course of the weekend, not just limited to the Saturday evening gala, we discovered, or decreed some new notables or mentions from our wine flight.

The Highest Achievement or Achiever award, or recognition went to Freemark Abbey Bosche’ Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1995. This wine stood our from the other two similarly situated labels – same grape varietal, same vintage, similar or neighboring proximity appellations.

The also rans were Del Dotto Napa Valley Rutherford appellation Cabernet Sauvignon, and Plumpjack Reserve Oakville Cabernet.

The Del Dotto probably was most predicable, meeting or pretty much living up to expectations, consistent with my earlier recollections. Folks thought it had a mustiness to it that I attributed to Del Dotto's preponderance of oak. 

We visited the estate together during out Del Dotto Rutherford Cave Tour and Barrel Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

Reading my earlier tasting notes on this label, indeed I cited the preponderance of oak in the tasting profile when I wrote in 2011, "Only starting to show a hint of age but still life left in this sixteen year old - dark garnet color, medium-full bodied, oak predominates the taste accented by spicy black cherry, berry, plum and cedar with hint of leather, cigar box and vanilla with well-integrated tannins on a long complex finish." RM 91 points. 

Like tonight, this was consistent with my previous tasting fifteen months earlier in 2010. "Starting to show a hint of age but lots of life left in this fifteen year old - oak predominates the taste accented by spicy black cherry, berry, plum and hint of vanilla , with smooth polished well-integrated tannins on a long complex finish."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=890767

The Plumpjack, being the Reserve single vineyard designated bottling from McWilliams Mt Eden vineyard, probably underachieved, especially when considering the lofty expectations set by the producer at the winery when they pressed to supplement or top up our holdings for a mere $700+ per bottle.

We tasted and acquired this wine during our first visit to the Plumpjack estate back in 1999 when we actually hosted winemaker May Pisor for a winemaker dinner with our wine group at Meadowood Country Club in Napa (right).

The Freemark Abbey Bosche' was full, round, complex, yet polished and elegant, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever after 28 years, and was even better the next evening!  It showed very similar profile and characteristics as the TOR, below. This is not surprising perhaps since the Bosche' vineyard is adjacent to the Beckstoffer ToKalon vineyard

Once again, perhaps this should not have been a surprise. Tonight's tasting notes are remarkably consistent with my previous tasting of this label nine years earlier when I wrote: "At a horizontal tasting of Napa Cabernets, this label proved to be one of, if not the tasting highlight (s) of the evening. My own Cellartracker notes and rating from 9/2/2013, about eleven months ago accurately apply to tonight's tasting - I wrote: "An eye-opening standout of th(at)e evening featuring a horizontal tasting of five 95 vintage Napa Cabs, this was medium to full bodied with bright vibrant forward ripe plum and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of currant, clove, hints of vanilla and sweet oak with smooth polished silky tannins on the finish. Lots of life left in this eighteen year old." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=780698

These were great comparisons and accompaniments to the Seabrook Club filets of beef entrees. 

While interesting, and somewhat complex, the Plumpjack was what I will politely call, delicate, subdued in its nuances, certainly a style and profile very different from the boisterous blustery bold fruit bombs we so often favor and enjoy – more akin the style of some of our other highly regarded selections, below.

Perhaps the most highly acclaimed or rated bottle of the evening (WOTN- Wine of the Night) was the Bacchus label by Joseph Phelps, brought by Dan from his wine club vertical collection of this label. Our visit, private tour and Joseph Phelps Napa Spring Valley Winery Tasting was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience together in 2017.

Next in line might be the TOR To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon predominant Cuvee' Bordeaux varietal blend. This is produced by vintner and proprietors Tor and Susan Kenwood, part of a portfolio of a dozen labels of single vineyard designated wines sourced from some of the premier vineyards across Napa Valley and crafted by Winemaker Jeff Ames. 

This label is sourced from six blocks of 83 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and two blocks of Cabernet Franc from the world renowned To Kalon vineyard. To Kalon owned by Andy Beckstoffer provides under grower/producer contracts, fruit for some of the most storied labels in Napa Valley such as Opus One. It is sited across Highway 29, St Helena Highway, from that property, adjacent and behind Robert Mondavi Winery, up against the Mayacamas foothills. It is also source for the Poetic Justice label below.

Here is where the surprise of the evening, or weekend emerges. 'Hooray for Bosche,’ the single vineyard designated label from long-time favored and widely held and collected producer Freemark Abbley. Wine buddy Bill holds an extensive collection of this producer, followed by me, with labels dating back three decades. These pages are filled with comparison tastings of these labels over the years between Bill and me. 

We also made a discovery of a new label (to us), Poetic Justice from the Bounty Hunter, from a collection from the producer that Bill acquired as part of a winning bid at a fund raising charity auction. Lucky us, as this was an exciting new label/producer discovery, perhaps a new category for us for future wine tastings. 

This was released negociant style by Bounty Hunter, notable long time Napa Valley reseller of super premium boutique and bespoke wines. This label release was a collaborative project with legendary winemaker Philip Melka crafted from fruit sourced from the To Kalon vineyard. We've acquired several super labels from him over the years and have attended a couple premier tastings currated by him.

Bill's Cellartracker notes for this tasting that captured this perfectly. "Wow! What a pleasant surprise. This was full of red fruit, raspberry and cherry. Full bodied with well integrated tannins. This was delicious on a pop and pour basis. 73% Cabernet Franc and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon. All the flavor was there and plenty of body. Missing a little complexity and depth but really delicious." WCC 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1443207


Lyle brought from his cellar the Dissident from Mark Ryan. We tasted this and the Poetic Justice in a run up to the dinner. This exceeded expectations, providing a very nice complex but balanced approachable wine for casual sipping in the afternoon with cheeses and fruits.

Mark Ryan wines are the artwork of Mark Ryan McNeilly, a self taught winemaker who learned the craft working with well known producers, acquiring Bordeaux varietal grapes from renowned vineyards in the Columbia Valley Red Mountain appellation. He produces an extensive portfolio of wines from across the region, but is most notably known for several art crafted Bordeaux Blends.

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine when we visited and conducted a Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting in his Woodinville, Washington tasting room during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour in 2018.
 
Today's tasting was consistent with my notes from that experience: "Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, dark berry, black currant and black cherry fruits are accented with notes of spice, mocha and hints of cedar with subtle tannins on a lingering finish." RM 91 points. 
 

The closing wine flight for the dinner, and over the weekend, was a collection of dessert wines and a big brawny Aussie shiraz, the premium Clarendon Hills Astrallis label, best suited for the after dinner chocolate course.


The weekend featured several selections of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, fresh fruits and assorted nuts, biscuits and crackers. 

 


What fun, and how ironic that our long favored cheese purveyor, Murray's Cheese, where we shopped and dined at their wine and cheese shop and restaurant wine and cheese bar in Greenwich Village in NYC numerous times over the years, was subsequently acquired by Kroger, and as such, their artisan cheeses are now available here at home at our local Mariano's, and down in South Carolina and their local Harris Teeter, as well as at specialty wine and cheese shops! 

And the Dow Vintage Port and Astrallis with Chocolate cake! Recognition for Linda's birthday (and my recent retirement).

 
The wine flight for this year’s events:

Chateau Leoville Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1986 - we'll hold this as part of a vertical or horizontal for an upcoming event.

Mark Ryan Dissident Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

The trio horizontal wine tasting of 1995 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons

-        Del Dotto Rutherford Napa Valley Estate

-        Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard from Oakville Appellation

-        Plumpjack Reserve Oakville McWilliams Mt Eden Vineyard

Joseph Phelps Bacchus Oakville Cabernet 2012

A duo of Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Oakville Cabernet Sauvignons

Bounty Hunter Poetic Justice 2009
TOR 2009 from magnum

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Cab 2008

And the dessert, cheese, chocolate courses flight:

Clarendon Hills Astrallis Syrah 2011
Alois Kracher Chardonnay TBA Trocken Bereen Auslese #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001
Alois Kracher Chardonnay TBA Trocken Bereen Auslese #9 Nouvelle Vague 2002
Dow Vintage Port 1994


Previous Pour Boys OTBN Events

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2011 - Open That Bottle Night.